Photographer DANIEL THOMAS
WWW.B-SIDEBYWALE.COM
editor’s note
Issue 8: As we creep further and deeper into winter, recession and longer nights have cast a long shadow on many designer collections. Our obsession with dark glamour has translated through to not only what we wear, but what we watch, HBO’s hit series True Blood and the even more popular Twilight saga serve as aphrodisiac that has seduced us into the darkness. We no longer fear the night, and instead have embraced the unknown and revel in it’s mysterious, brooding nature - making it irrestitably sexy. The highstreet is feeling the gothic/grunge revival, brands like Allsaints are even more relevant now than ever as they lead the way with their rugged leathers and rustic accessories. Fall’09 collections have plunged into darkness and the rest of the highstreet have follow suit; emerging with distressed leathers, spikes, studs, slashed knitwear and luxurious coats - it’s apparent that black takes on many forms. In this issue we celebrate fashion’s oldest friend; the colour black, and we’re in good company - Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, Ann Deleumeester have all displayed spine-tingling collections that have inspired a new generation of goth-rock ninjas. Black on black, with more black is the rule, so mix up fabrics and textures to create a look that’s dead, dead stylish...
Dennis Lye, EDITOR
WWW.B-SIDEBYWALE.COM
Model: Marc Jorden wearing: Jacket, People’s Market £98. Customized denim waistcoat, Models own. Black high collar jersey, B-Store £115 from My-Wardrobe.com. Necklace, River Island. Brooch, Stylist own.
Editor: Dennis lye Fashion Editor: LUCY SWAN Features Editor: ARIETA MUJAY Fashion Assistant: IVIE OKHIONS
The Revolution Is Here: benjamin stonehouse Starving Artist: john troxel Noir: garrett forbes Barnaby ash (Guest Stylist)
Rebel With A Cause: IAIN ANDERSON Chiaruscuro: JULIA ESKELL Memoirs Of The Undead: MEL BAGSHAW The Origin Collection: ZACH BURNS
Gareth Pugh’s theatrical roots in fashion have never been concealed by his catwalk displays. His extrovert collections for womenswear were borderline mental genius: performing art as opposed to merely dressing. His menswear designs were highly anticipated with a huge level of expectation, and yet the infamous boy about town exceeded even his worst critics expectation. His male models marched the catwalk showcasing a spohisticated take on the obesely successful goth/ grunge trade [which Pugh helped pionner]. Cropped tuxedo’s contradicted by geommetric patterned peather, ripped leggings and burgeoning furs. A collection as theatrical and unique as you would expect but a whole lot more accessible than his early womenswear offerings.
James Long is innovating fashion before our very eyes. His exaggerated forms are both fearsome on the catwalk and versatile on the street. His use of natural fibres and fabrics creates a collection that is wholesome to the touch whilst being aesthetically cutting edge to the point of obscurity. If you are after an edgy look which seperates you out from the leather clad crowd, then look no further than Master Long. A new generation of gothic ninjas are born, assasin chic has never been sexier
STYLEspotlight
Rick Owens manages to revitalise monochrome in a way which is innovative and unique. Stepping away from the traditonal elegance associated with black and white, and adding subtle changes. Modernising looks with a different choice of fabric, and an elongated cut. Draped t-shirts, cropped trousers and belted coats made up Owen’s adaption of the masculine silhouette for AW 09/10.
Martyn Bal, another name to behold this season, with a bold winter collection again championing the revamped grunge look. Martyn Bal’s AW 09 was a collaboration between sartorial male elegance, and a rougher, meaner edge of masculinity. Clean cut suits were contradicted by belted leather bomber jackets, redefining sophistication in one showing.
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STYLEedits
WWIT’s best buys for the this month’s black issue. BY DENNIS LYE
3 4
Embossed monogram holdall Louis Vuitton, £2,290
www.louisvuitton.com
Black stainless steel watch Thomas Sabo, £319
www.thomassabo.com
L’incognito Sunglasses Martin Margiela, £275 www.oki-ni.com
Skull knuckle duster Alexander Mcqueen, £333
www.alexandermcqueen.com
5
Micheal Jackson Print Tee Lazy Oaf, £24.50
www.lazyoaf.co.uk
STYLEedits
6 7
Patterned harem pants Henrik Vibskov, £219
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9
www.FARFETCH.com
Studded “Rollover” combat boots Bess, £207
www.revolveclothing.com
Leather mapcase Rogue Gallery, £92
www.roguesgallery.com
10
Knit & cotton belted parachute coat Henrik Vibskov, £314 www.farfetch.com
Nylon biker jacket Kokon To Zai, £354 www.FARFETCH.com
STYLEagenda
Kick start the party season in these dazzlers £100 by Jimmy Choo for H&M. In stores from November 13th. While stock lasts.
This MONTH... We keep you informed for things to look out for. BY LUCY SWAN
Russell Brand and Katy Perry at John Galliano’s S/S10 show sporting an embroidered & embellished coat from the collection. I must say, it’s refreshing seeing him experiment with runway looks and he pulls it off perfectly. We salute you!
ACCESSORIES THAT YOU CAN REALLY SINK YOUR CLAW INTO...
Dominic Jones is the name to know within the fashion world at the moment, his revolutionary unisex jewellery collections have been creating tsunamis within the fashion industry ever since he was tucked cosily under his business partner – Alice Dellal’s – well connected wing. His work can only be described as ‘fierce’ with rose thorn studs, leather biker gloves with nails attached and claw rings acting as key pieces within his collection, it is quite possible that this 24 year old Londoner has created the ultimate recession busting embellishments for fashion followers the world over. Although his jewellery predominately adorns women in his adverts and press, the collection is essential for menswear: add the rose thorn studs to a black t-shirt to emulate the tough, luxe grunge look, which is so covetable this season, or add a claw ring to create a tough edge to a heritage look. Available at www.dominicjonesjewellery.com
Best Of British
Jonathon William Anderson
The Irish born heir to Britain’s menswear throne has thrown down the gauntlet to competing designers. The AW09 collection is a fusion of aristocratic elegance and theatrical detailing. His fabrics convey the utmost luxury in just a fleeting glance, whilst his shapes evoke a sense of heritage whilst referencing the theatrical roots of British fashion. His entire collection is cut from fabrics all woven in Britain, reinforcing the aristocratic edge to this prestigious collection. The collection ‘A Brave New World’ was a direct descendent from Anderson’s intrigue for old world travellers, men who had sliced themselves free of the confines of high society, whilst remaining gracefully elegant in a nonchalant way. The finished selection of designs is intended to portray the imaginary uniforms of old voyagers from the early 20th Century. Anderson has managed to capture an untapped resource within fashion, fusing nonchalant style with aristocratic fashion, creating an entirely new dimension to the array of heritage interpretations on offer. Available at www.mysugarland.co.uk
Despite the austere, gloomy aesthetic of British fashion in these troublesome times there is a heart warming embrace for heritage fashion. Brands such as Burberry, Barbour and Hunter have been enjoying booms in their sales and a younger, more fashionable breed of customer. ASOS the online global fashion monstrosities are bang on trend – as always – with their perfectly timed and beautifully executed Best of British collaborations which launched live in September. Brands involved include Fred Perry who produced a polo shirt and blouson featuring an inflated laurel leaf, exclusively for ASOS, Brady contributed bags of harris tweed – the staple fabric for effortless elegance this winter, and underwear brand Sunspel used liberty prints to form five exclusive boxer short designs. Other brands getting their best of British together are Thomas Pink, Mackintosh, and John Smedley. Their literally is no time like the present to embrace our heritage and wear it as a statement. ASOS.com
Classical Feet
Classic footwear isn’t everyone’s ideal pavement pounder. From the sturdy design of the timeless brogue [currently enjoying a renaissance within high fashion] to the borderline ludicrous winklepinker- the choice of many a 60’s loving individual. They are shoes that can ultimately be likened to Marmite, you either love them or hate them. At a time when fashion is emulating trends of the past, more so than ever, it is inescapable to walk down a pavement [at some point within a year] wearing either an original classic, or a reworked-brand spanking new version of a classic. Even the bank friendly plimsoll is a replica of a sports shoe that precedes Nike and the other sporting monsters of athletic wear. The next classic to cushion your feet from their daily impact is the Desert Boot. This sturdy, simplistic and [some may say- unattractive- shoe] has been assaulting British fashion with enviable regularity for quite some time. Clarks have launched a ‘Clark’s Originals’ range, celebrating 60 years of the afore mentioned Desert boot, and what a sixty years it’s been. From the dusty deserts of Cairo, all the way through the style spectrum to the cold pavements of Great Britain in 2009, with an eloquently unchanged look of innocence ready and waiting to walk us into 2010. Office, Clarks, Topman and Topshop have all succumbed to the whimsical charm of the Desert Boot, head to your high street to pick up an investment. These sturdy footwear are sure to be around for at least another 60 years.
www.pc-williams.com
STYLEinspiration
Johnny Depp as Sweeny Todd 2007
FILMOGRAPHY CHANNELLING SWEENEY TODD:
Tailoring get a KILLER upgrade with devilishly sharp suiting, finished off with leather accessories £220, Allsaints £85 Dents, ASOS
Johnny Depp in From Hell 2001 £90 Hartford, My Wardrobe.com
Martyn Bal Price on request
Nosferatu: A Symphony of Horror 1929
£1,160, Ann Deleumeester £18, Allsaints £39, Topman
£1089, Rick Owens Oki-ni.com
STYLEinspiration
FILMOGRAPHY INSPIRED BY EDWARD SCISSORHANDS:
Tarnished metallic accents mixed with leather, chains, studs and buckles make Edward current and more modern than ever.
£16, Mango HE
Johnny Depp as Edward Scissorhands 1990
£810 Blaak Homme, Farfetch.com
£200, Ann Deleumeester
£545 Ann Deleumeester, Farfetch.com
£6.99, River Island
£201, Blaak Homme
Jimmy Choo for H&M
£200, Ann Deleumeester
£350 Chloe, Net A Porter
£189 Martin Margiela, Ok-ni.com
STYLEinspiration
FILMOGRAPHY INSPIRED BY THE CROW:
The darker season has sparked a decadant grunge/gothic-rock revival, slashed knitwear, sheers paired with macabre jewellery finish this eerie look
Brandon Lee as The Crow 1994
£149, Oaknyc.com
£98, Oaknyc.com
£594 Julius, Farfetch.com
£135 Ann Deleumeester, Farfetch.com
£145, Butler & Wilson
£11, 500, Theo Fennell
£390, Alexander McQueen
£137, Oaknyc.com
£375 Damir Doma, Oki-ni.com
Rogues Gallery
STYLEfeature
The “Revolution” is here Why we’ve succomb to the dark side, and loving it... BY BENJAMIN STONEHOUSE
The ‘vampire culture’ is certainly ‘in’ at the moment juxtaposed by the 80’s revival of the neo-gothic New Romantic look of various lines along with the natural seasonal change as Victoriana gothic seems to be proving increasingly popular around the darker months. It’s no coincidence it twins with the uprising of such literature as Twilight saga that was in turn, adapted into a successful blockbuster also the American drama True Blood on HBO/C4 and to a lesser extent, BBC Three’s Being Human not to mention many other up-coming movies. Essentially it’s all revealed a fascinating interest in vampirism within the media and fashion world, it’s looking to be a force as designers such as widely known gothic aesthetic phenomenon, Rick Owens and his excellent exuberant designs (see left, image: Rick Owens, Fall ’09 show). The likes of Sunderland born Gareth Pugh and Ann Demeulemeester have also displayed some very dark collections of late. It is the mystery and intrigue that captivates us all, what better way to show it than fashion? Such as the neo-gothic look that reveals the bleakness of the black with white, colourful touches from patterned tie-scarfs and shirts. The brooding, masculinity midst the darkness and very much like Tom Hardy’s Heathcliff in ITV’s Wuthering Heights and Edward Cullen (Robert Pattinson of Twilight). The sheer mood can be captured just by the influence of one’s style. Now, an arty friend of mine has heard on the grapevine that ‘Teeth are the new skulls,’ and popularity increasing amongst the fellow fashionistas she says (teeth, of course deriving from the Twilight vampire theme). This is a brilliant source, as Matthew Williamson sent the fashion scene crazy a few years back with his skull prints, so pretty big news along with Nordstrom launching an exclusive fashion and jewellery collection inspired by the film which
includes fang detailed necklaces, etc. So much like Rodarthe; the Mulleavy sisters who last month showcased their latest collection of horror chic, it’s signalling a grand gothic revolution with a palate of black, grey and even hematite for Gareth Pugh who also is likely to use monochromatic with the occasional shiny trousers. The issue is, can this become popular amongst the masses in the UK especially within a recession and many young male adults finding themselves unemployed in addendum the students probably haven’t even received their loans yet as I certainly haven’t. But it’s worth noting such attire can be acquired fairly cheaply if you look and like the vintage jackets, it’s often at a very low price from charity shops found in the back-streets of major cities. Even if the complete theme isn’t to your taste, it’s fairly easy to mix it with trendy, tuxedo jackets and white shirts as demonstrated by Demeulemeester (right: image from Paris show). So clearly there is an appetite for the vampires, gothic clothing and idols. Yet, is it enough to embark upon a contemporary revolution? I see other gothic influences steadily increasing from art such as Damien Hirst’s The Meet Shall Inherit the Earth which has finally remerged at the Wallace Collection with blackish blue backgrounds to strange abstract lining of blue silk with the skulls laid slain bang in the middle taking our focus. Now, it’s received mixed reactions but I feel the our generation will react to it in a more positive light just like the Twilight saga because it is against all conformity and whilst we admire such naturalistic paintings of the Pre Raphaelite Brotherhood, we live in an era where we can simply take stunning photography of similar surroundings using just our mobile phones. Hence the vampire culture will continue to grow as it is nothing alike the other trends and more designers will pick upon this, leading to a cluster of high street stores vying for them.
STYLEfeature THE RIFLE
Brooch £45 THE DOUBLE COINED
Bracelet £95
THE PEACE BULLET
Bracelet £95
THE VETERAN
Brooch £45
THE COLLECTION is inspired by his recent journeys, medals of honor, the Boy Scouts of America, kilts worn in the Scottish Highlands during the 16th century and symbols of faith. The origin of these vintage pieces has been revisited with a modern influence.
THE BRONZE
Necklace £140
the
ORIGIN
THE SCREW
Necklace £115
COLLECTION
THE BLUE ROMAN
Necklace £100
At an early age, it was apparent that ADRIAN MORALES was full of ambition and always had a creative thirst he felt he had to quench. A leap of faith was neccessary, so he quit the coporate nine to five and sold everything to pursue his dream – “It’s now of never.” And so he and his dream left Texas for new beginnings – next stop, London. Photographs by ZACH BURNS
THE KEY HOLE
Brooch £40
THE RABIES 1973
Brooch £65
Adrian’s biggest fan and supporter had always been his mother, whose been the source of inspiration and strength for him. Which was even more apparent living so far away, the distance apart only reinforced the connection and drove him to reach higher. After losing a long and painful battle with cancer, the memories of his beloved mother were passed down in plethora of charms, pendants and trinkets from her jewelry box. He saw an opportunity to give his cherish memories a new lease of life, and so with a close friend, Candee Lyons they created one-off pieces that let the memories of his mother to live on and inspire other people. Each piece has a story and can only be appreciated in person, using a combination of recycled, vintage and new materials, you can see and feel the journey and history of each of the genuine articles. It’s of no surprise why Adrian’s collection are sought after, each individual piece is never the same. Get it while you can.
Photographs by JOHN TROXEL Artwork by DENNIS LYE
Photographs by Moja Maat Styled by Laura Hollabaugh Grooming by Mil Uiprapath Model: Garrett Forbes @ Look
Opposite page: Trench coat, Prada Trousers, Dolce & Gabbana Shoes, Hugo Boss Glasses, Prada This page: Jumper, Helmut Lang Jeans, Levi’s
Opposite page: Jacket, Dsquared2 Shirt, H&M Trousers, Hugo Boss Shoes, Ben Sherman Gloves, Gucci This page: Cardigan & trousers, Zara Shoes, Hugo Boss
This page: Cardigan, Shades of Greige. Shirt, Dsqaured2 Trousers, Miu Miu
This page: Jumper, Helmut Lang. Jodpurs, American Apparel Shoes, Bed Stu Bag, Zara
Photographs by MEL BAGSHAW Assisted by MARTA OVOD Styling by ARIETA MUJAY Style assistant IVIE OKHIONS Make-up by ANU PESONEN
The recession has had a hard hitting impact on fashion, and the winter collections found a way to retaliate. Leather, studding, black & more BLACK, with an attitude to match. Strong looks exaggerated with form and expression, picking up key trends from the catwalk and street. Photographs by IAIN ANDERSON Assisted by JAMES TERRY Styling by LUCY SWAN & DENNIS LYE
PREVIOUS PAGE: Jacket, People’s Market £98. Customized denim waistcoat, Models own. Black high collar jersey, B-Store £115 from My-Wardrobe.com. Necklace, River Island. Brooch, Stylist own. THIS PAGE: Wool hat, Topman. Loose knit jumper, Beyond Retro. Wide neck cotton tee, ASOS. Studded shoulder bag, model’s own. Harem trousers, Orphan Age. Shoes, Doc Martens £75. Chunky round black ring, Model’s own, Square silver ring, Black Dice. Silver skull ring £7 & black enambel skull ring £4, Topman. Armoured ring,
THIS PAGE: Top hat, River Island. Boy London t-shirt, Camden market. Leather jacket, Model’s own. Ripped jeans, Model’s own. Shoes, Doc Martens £75. Square silver rings £35, Black Dice. Detatchable buckles, Model’s own.
THIS PAGE: Slashed knit sleeveless jumper, ASOS. Printed t-shirt, H&M. Harem trousers, Orphan Age. Shoes, Doc Martens £75. Silver skull ring £7 & black enambel skull ring £4, Topman. Multichain belt (worn as necklace) Model’s own.
THIS PAGE: Studded leather jacket, Model’s Own. Thick cream cardigan (worn as jumper), People’s Market. Fingerless gloves, Stylist’s own. Studded skinny belt, Model’s own. Tartan harem trousers £99, Orphan Age. Black belted biz boots £130, Jeffrey Campbell.
THIS PAGE: Black chunky knit scarf, Stylist’s own. Studded belt, Model’s own, Black jersey harems £50, Ebay. Silver skull ring £7, Topman. Armoured ring, Vivienne Westwood £75.
A nod to the gentlemen who wear the night Photographs by JULIA ESKELL Styling by BARNABY ASH Model JAMES NOLA
PREVIOUS PAGE: Coat, Martyn Bal THIS PAGE: Shirt, Alexander Boyd. Tuxedo, Armani Collezioni. Roll up, Matthew. Bow tie, Stylists own OPPOSITE PAGE: Shirt, Martyn Bal. Trousers & braces, Carolyn Massey. Shoes, B-Store. Bow tie, Stylists own
PREVIOUS PAGE: Shirt & bow tie by Satyenkumar THIS PAGE: Shirt, Armani Collezioni. Trousers, Hugo Boss. Necklace, Models own. OPPOSITE PAGE: Shirt & Blazer, Caseley-Hayford. Trousers, Lou Dalton
EPER.C REETPE T S : E C SOUR
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We check out how the boys do it in LONDON and other major cities - black on black, and more black.
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SOURCE: STREETPEEPER.COM
SOURCE: STREETPEEPER.COM
SOURCE: STREETPEEPER.COM
SOURCE: STREETPEEPER.COM
STYLE&people
STYLEgrooming
Sort out your christmas presents in the comfort of your own home with great gift ideas. The best thing is the reduced price! EMPORIO ARMANI DIAMONDS FOR MEN £30
DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE FOR MEN £27
MANTASTIC!
The christmas period along with gift shopping can be extremely stressful, so much time and attention is spent trying not to forget anyone. When it comes to actually deciding and buying something is another ball game altogether! What seemingly is quite a simple task becomes a full blown mission to scour the department stores for the perfect gift - not to mention the hundreds of other people in the same predicament! It can all get alittle to much, even more so for us guys... Exhale...Help is at hand. Lookmantastic.com have cleverly compiled the best(est) gift sets on popular brands, with reduced price on items for him & for her to ultimately bring you peace of mind. You can now avoid the crowd and sit in the comfort of your chair, and proceed to tick off each and every last person on your list, easy as one, two, three. Not only is it a great site for a wide selection of grooming products, lookmantastic also stock clothing, fragrances, grooming tools & electrical accessories. It’s your one-stop-shop to stay in top form. To assure that you are kept up to date, the lookmanstatic blog will also fill you in on the latest releases and also style tips from industry veterans. Be sure to treat yourself to something a little special too www.lookmantastic.com
ELEMIS TOTAL MEN’S GROOMING COLLECTION GIFT SET WAS £87.35, NOW £45
DKNY MEN £35.25
DERMALOGICA AGE SMART STARTER KIT WAS £37.50, NOW £31.90
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It’s simple, just send an email to wwit@live.co.uk with the subject: contribute with a short paragraph about you and what you do, along with what you want to contribute - then take it from there. Ideally if you are based in the UK it would be best, but not exclusive. We have contributors from all around the world, makes for broader prespective!
Autum n 2009
We it tre Wort h magoo azin e
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