The West Australian Travel Sat 11 Feb 2023

Back in business (& how)

‘What is emerging is what many cruise industry insiders are now calling the biggest year ever’

CRUISING GUIDE

How the tide turned for ocean adventures

LONG-TERM PLANNING, SHORT SNAP DEALS, TASTER TRIPS, BIG VOYAGES

MADELEINE CLARK ’HOW SURPRISING CANBERRA CAUGHT MY HEART’

WHEN TO RUN

Know when to hold ’em Know when to fold ’em Know when to walk away  Know when to run.

— Kenny Rogers, The Gambler

CHILLY EXIT

I came home early from New York and the north­eastern US just as an Arctic blast kicked in — not because I’m scared of the cold but because if planes stop flying in the US due to bad weather, it turns into a different kind of storm.

A combination of cold temperatures and strong winds brought record low temperatures. The air temperature dropped to ­44C and winds gusted at nearly 160km/h at New Hampshire’s Mt Washington. Combining the effect of air and wind on the skin gave a wind chill of ­78C — the lowest ever recorded in the US.

The Arctic blast started further north as cold air gathered over the snow­covered ground in the Arctic. A jet stream in the middle and upper part of the atmosphere then pushed it down to Canada and the US. The US National Weather Service defines an “Arctic blast” as an event where very cold air bodies, typically originating in Siberia, cross the North Pole and push south and east. As it is pushed into warmer, moister air, it can become a “bomb cyclone” storm, with atmospheric pressure falling very quickly. On this occasion, the Arctic air ran into the region just as a cyclonic circulation was developing over Labrador and Newfoundland.

In New York’s Central Park the temperature bottomed out at ­16C and a “code blue” order was enacted, so no homeless shelter could turn anyone away. (I was jolly glad to be wearing my new Stetson wool and cashmere docker hat. John B. Stetson founded the company in Pennsylvania in 1865 during the gold rush.)

Country singer Kenny Rogers was born into a poor family in Houston in 1938, at the end of the Great Depression. He was first in his family to graduate from high school and, without any formal musical training, went on to become a global country music star, epitomising the “American dream”.

HAPPIEST 100TH

The Walt Disney Company has its 100th anniversary in 2023 — and while all Disney parks around the world will celebrate, the heart of the party is at the Disneyland Resort. Festivities at “The Happiest Place on Earth” began on January 27 and continue all year. To celebrate, Disneyland Resort gets new experiences and entertainment, decor and specialty treats.

CHOCCIE CELEBRATION

Hershey’s Chocolate World is celebrating its milestone 50th anniversary this year with a new attraction. The official 50th birthday celebration is on June 30, 2023. More than 117 million visitors have passed through the doors of Hershey’s Chocolate World in Hershey, Pennsylvania. There are also Hershey’s Chocolate Worlds in Times Square (New York), Niagara (on the US­Canada border) and Singapore (in Resorts World

INSIDE THIS EDITION

Paris for free. P6 Asia’s secret sanctuary. P13 Pickpocket danger. P17 Cruising Guide. P19 Moora music. P35

THE POD WELL TRAVELLED This week …

New York & Samsung’s new Galaxy S23.

ETRAVEL

More fresh travel stories delivered direct to your inbox each Wednesday. westtravelclub.com.au/join TRAVEL CLUB EVENTS New Norcia Experience with Stephen Scourfield & friends. westtravelclub.com.au/events TRAVEL CLUB TOURS WTC Art Series Northern Territory with Will Yeoman. westtravelclub.com.au/tours and  1800 854 897

Sentosa). In addition to their usual Hershey’s Chocolate Tour and Create Your Own Candy Bar, Hershey’s Chocolate World will unveil a chocolate sculpture.

BROAD MINDED

I’m not sure about Lego any more — it just seems like an awful lot of plastic. But Legoland Resorts has pulled off an interesting initiative. Its California and Florida resorts became Certified Autism Centres in 2022, and Legoland New York will become a CAC when it reopens for the 2023 season on March 31. It follows staff training, including understanding the perspectives of autistic individuals.

LOVE BOAT RENEWED

With Valentine’s Day on Tuesday, February 14, Princess Cruises has given a first glimpse of the contemporary designs for “The Love Boat”, Sun Princess. The ship is due early in 2024. It has Princess’ first three­storey dining venue, Horizons Dining, with lots of natural light. Its new Princess Arena theatre has an in­the­round configuration, radial ceiling and seats more than 1000 people.

Our Cruising Guide starts on page 19.

SUNDAY TRAVEL

It’s a Top Gun moment. There’s a Tomcat jet fighter on the aircraft carrier’s flight deck, the glass towers of New York all around...

SWEET TREATS

Also for Valentine’s Day, Emirates airline is planning sweet treats aboard and love­themed desserts in its lounges. The team also seems rather proud of having more than 70 romantic comedies and dramas on the ICE entertainment system, including Ticket to Paradise starring Julia Roberts and George Clooney. Other new releases include Meet Cute, starring Kaley Cuoco and Pete Davidson, and Ask Me to Dance. All­time classics include When Harry Met Sally, Bridget Jones’s Diary and The Notebook.

BREKKIE DOWN UNDER

A couple of weeks ago I was in Bali and wrote about the floating breakfast at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua. I see that Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Port Douglas, has just launched its own floating breakfast, claiming it’s the first in Queensland. A spokesperson admits theirs is “mirroring the likes of Bali and the Maldives”, and will start with croissants and a tropical fruit plate delivered on a floating

wicker tray. Guests can then select classic dishes, from big breakfast burgers to coconut acai bowls and a half lobster. The price is described as “dynamic, starting from $690 per night” for two people in a mirage studio, with floating breakfast served in the lagoon pool on day two. (Not quite the same as Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua, where it was served on the pool canal at the back door of my room.) floatingbreakfastaustralia.com

SEMINYAK MOMENT

There’s a seven­night stay at the five­star Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak Resort from $1469 per room with Flight Centre, between April 1 and October 31, 2023. A fly­stay package for two adults is from $3089. The stay includes daily breakfast and one day of access to Finns Beach and has to be booked by February 28. 1300 887 398 or flightcentre.com.au

DON’T DRINK THE WATER

The Indonesia Institute has been getting inquiries from travellers asking if it’s safe to drink tap water in Bali. There have been numerous TikTok posts by travellers going to Bali saying that drinking tap water actually boosts your immune system and helps prevent things like “Bali belly”. (Good luck with that theory.) Institute president Robbie Gaspar says: “I lived in Indonesia for over seven years playing football, and I can tell you that it’s a great place, as is Bali, but tap water is not safe to drink and you can get very sick by doing this.” Robbie recommends drinking only pre­boiled water or bottles of water from reputable stores. He adds: “But please help the environment by avoiding the small single­use bottles that damage Bali’s environment.” Yes, and beware small, single­use TikTok travel vloggers. Their advice might damage your internal environment.

MAKE THEM APPY

AirAsia’s Super App has been busy promoting Bali. Here’s a thought: if AirAsia put the same effort into

Stephen Scourfield Travel Editor

Above, ice rink at Rockefeller Centre. Below, a white windscreen in New York, a few days ago.

Pictures: Stephen Scourfield

Horizons dining room on Sun Princess.

customer service and refunds, a lot of Bali travellers (and would­be travellers) who contact me after weeks or months of getting no satisfaction would be a lot happier.

QANTAS NOSEDIVE

The latest Roy Moran reputation survey has seen Qantas nosedive from ninth most trusted brand in Australia to 40th position. That’s an epic fail by 31 places in the “net trust” rankings. Keep in mind that six months ago the national carrier was the sixth most trusted brand in the country. Roy Morgan data scientists analysed nominations from more than 22,000 Australians to get the result. The top five most trusted brands are unchanged for a fifth straight quarter: Woolworths, Coles, Bunnings, Aldi and Kmart.

AIRPORT SHARE

Seventeen WA regional airports are getting a share of $3 million from the Regional Airports Development Scheme, including $417,950 to support a $3.7m project to design and build a new terminal at Laverton Airport.

SOLO PROPOSITION

There’s a push by some European aircraft manufacturers to have planes flying, at times, with only one pilot in the cockpit. The plane builders, including Airbus SE, have reportedly proposed limited solo flying when a plane is in its cruise phase in a bid to help ease labour shortages. There would be at least two pilots in the cockpit for take­off and landing. Solo flying, even in cruise phase, has to be approved by the European Union Aviation Safety Agency, individual airlines and pilot unions. The

agency is expected to start studying the issue soon.

BAGS OF RECYCLING

All fabrics in Victorinox’s new Crosslight collection are made from recycled materials, with between 25 and 45 recycled PET bottles used for each bag. The lining is 100 per cent recycled polyester lining. The expanding bags have a “pack light organiser” — a foldable divider with extra storage. They come in a range of sizes and are pricey, from the $649 carry­on to the $749 medium and $839 large softside cases. And, in a Henry Ford moment, they come in black, black or black. victorinox.com.au

PUERTO CALL

And finally, back to the weather . . .

Given the effects of hurricane Fiona in south­western Puerto Rico in September 2022, it’s amazing to me that its official destination marketing organisation has just revealed that 2022

was a record­breaking year for visitation. There were more travellers spending more money and more locals employed in tourism than ever before. The island is a US territory and locals are called Boricua — and they pride themselves on their warm Boricua spirit and welcome. A number of my American friends have recently been there for extended periods and rave about it (I’ve only ever made one shortish visit). More than 5 million people arrived at Luis Munoz Marin International Airport in 2022 and

spent $12.8b — a 39 per cent increase over the previous high in 2019. (But having had WA’s slightly weird whale shark advertisement recently “floating” over Times Square, albeit among the myriad other colourful, flashing signage, they’d better watch out. Right.)

SUNNY OUTLOOK

And more on the weather . . .

A survey of 1001 Australian travellers (895 living outside WA) commissioned by travel insurer InsureandGo reveals that two in three have their eye on our sunny State for a rain­free holiday, given the poor weather forecasts for the east coast. Particularly in NSW and Victoria, the rest of the summer and early autumn are expected to remain colder and wetter than usual. Parts of Queensland and Tasmania are likely to experience above­median rainfall in 2023, while we are set for unusually dry conditions. The survey shows younger travellers are drawn the most to WA’s weather, with 64 per cent of under­30s indicating they will seek a holiday here to escape the cold, wet weather. This compares with 54 per cent of over­50s.

THANKS, CREW

And the final word on weather . . .

Great Northern Highway began reopening between Broome and Derby on Thursday, February 9, after a 40­strong road crew finished making a temporary 10km single­lane gravel track around damage at Willare. There are phases for the reopening, with all vehicles allowed between 8am and 4pm until Sunday, February 12, then just two escorted convoys a day, each way, from Monday February 13 (Derby convoys leave at 7.30am and 4.30pm; Broome at 8am and 5pm). That could be in place for two weeks, or until the road crew can get the road wide enough for two­lanes. A big shout­out to the road crews. Thank you all for your hard work.

2 NIGHT EXCLUSIVE ULURU AND KATA

•

Wi-Fi and car parking

• 2 hour Katherine Outback Experience Outback Show^

• 3.5 hour Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise

• Half day Malappar Traveller canoe adventure

• 1 hour Guided Cutta Cutta Caves Tour

• 5 days AVIS car hire with a BONUS SUV upgrade to a Mitsubishi ASX or similar+

1,195

FAMILY PACKAGE

4 NIGHT DARWIN FAMILY ESCAPE

HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

• 4 nights at Metro Advance Apartments & Hotel

Darwin in a Two Bedroom Apartment

BONUS late checkout 12pm+

BONUS box of chocolates on arrival+

• 1 day admission at Crocosaurus Cove

BONUS Hold a Baby Croc family photo

• Full day Jumping Crocs & Nature Adventure Tour

Jumping crocodile cruise

Window on the Wetlands Visitors Centre

4 nights from $1

299

(1300 872 835) VIVAHOLIDAYS.COM.

TJUTA DISCOVERY

Willare Bridge. Picture: Cain Andrews

Victorinox Crosslight luggage collection.

Paris can be priceless

The top draws of the French capital, such as the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre Museum, will usually cost you (queuing) time and money to visit. But there are other rewarding Parisian gems that are free to enter and normally have no lines. The following five are good alternatives, especially for repeat tourists to Paris who have perhaps already taken in the headline acts and are looking for something different

CITY OF PARIS MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

You can see the Eiffel Tower through the near floor­to­ceiling windows of this unsung museum, which is a stone’s throw from the River Seine and covers a variety of genres of modern art, from post­impressionism and Art Deco

to Bauhaus and Cubism. The admission­free permanent collection includes pieces by Chagall and Picasso, but more impressive are the huge abstract canvases by Paris­born painter Robert Delaunay. You can pay extra to see temporary exhibitions here and at the neighbouring Palais de Tokyo, a site dedicated to modern and contemporary art.

fact file

For more information on visiting

The latter has a huge lobby where people chill out and flick through cultural magazines and newspapers.  mam.paris.fr/en

RICHELIEU LIBRARY

Hidden behind the Palais­Royal, this branch of the Bibliotheque Nationale de France is flaunting the fruits of a decade­long revamp. There are some fine architectural touches in the building — including a curving contemporary staircase — but the piece de resistance is the Salle Ovale, a vast, ornately decorated reading room with an outstanding collection of books, manuscripts and bandes dessinees (comics).

Students sit at desks adorned with glowing green lamps, and there are cosy chairs and sofas on which to relax with a book (pick a coffee­table tome on subjects as varied as Paris, James Bond, Communist architecture, and French pop and comedy).

Touch­screens show information about the library’s history and extensive catalogue.

bnf.fr/en/richelieu

CARNAVALET MUSEUM

Also looking swish after an impressive makeover is this excellent museum, the city’s oldest, located across two Renaissance­era mansions in the Marais district. Gallery spaces have been extended, brightened up and digitally enhanced, giving visitors a better grasp of episodes from Paris’ past. Explore the city’s origins as an Iron Age settlement for the Parisii tribe, its stint as the Roman colony of Lutetia, then relive Paris’ dramatic regal and revolutionary periods. Among the most visually impressive displays are the street and shop signs from yesteryear, the sumptuously furnished replicas of salons

crafted by Charles Le Brun, who helped decorate the Palace of Versailles, and a breathtaking recreation of a fin­de­siecle Parisian jewellery boutique.

carnavalet.paris.fr/ musee­carnavalet

THE MUSEUM OF ROMANTIC LIFE

Tucked down a quiet side street in Pigalle — a groovy neighbourhood south of Montmartre — this small but uplifting museum, set in a townhouse with lime­green window shutters, is the former home of 19th­century Dutch­French painter Ary Scheffer, who would entertain writers and artists such as George Sand, Eugene Delacroix and Charles Dickens here. Exhibiting period paintings, furniture, jewellery and other personal effects, the museum has a quaint setting, with a garden, courtyard and a wrought­iron greenhouse, from which the renowned Parisian bakery, Rose, runs a tearoom. museevieromantique.paris.fr/en

BALZAC’S HOUSE

There’s another branch of Rose Bakery at this equally secluded museum, which honours Honore de Balzac and occupies the old garden folly in which he lived and wrote for seven years in the 1840s. Like his pal Victor Hugo, Balzac was a great chronicler of French life, his most celebrated masterpiece being La Comedie Humaine (The Human Comedy).

Characters from this vast collection of short stories and novels have been carved into woodblocks and are on display at this museum, where walls are etched with Balzac quotes. The museum is in Passy which, in Balzac’s time, was a village on the outskirts of Paris, but is now very much part of the urban sprawl (and in the 16th arrondissement). From the leafy garden you will glimpse the Eiffel Tower — which Balzac never lived to see. It wasn’t built until almost 40 years after his death.

maisondebalzac.paris.fr/en

FRANCE

STEVE McKENNA keeps his money in his pocket

Balzac's House is a peaceful cocoon in Paris.

City of Paris Museum of Modern Art.

Inside the revamped Richelieu Library.

FRANCE

Paris

Paris, see parisinfo.com

Danube Christmas Markets & The Northern Lights

21 nights FROM ONLY $9,999PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS, TAXES AND TRANSFERS

Welcome on board the Emerald Dawn

This contemporary vessel has been specially designed to mirror the beauty of the majestic

Embrace the festive spirit as you visit sparkling Christmas Markets during a spellbinding Danube River cruise ahead of a voyage chasing the Northern Lights through the Norwegian Fjords, complete with hotel stays in Vienna and Copenhagen.

Your magical holiday begins in Vienna with a two-night hotel stay gifting you ample time to delve into its wealth of art galleries, architectural delights and

You’ll then join the striking Emerald Dawn for an enchanting Danube Christmas an overnight in port in Vienna, you’ll call into some of Europe’s best-loved cities –Bratislava and Budapest – admiring fairy-tale castles, romantic street and unique

An additional highlight of your river cruise, one of the United Kingdom’s muchloved classical singers, Aled Jones, will treat you to an intimate performance of The Snowman and seasonal carols too!

Passing numerous, picturesque spots along the way, you’ll be able to discover delightful treasures and witness the phenomenal Northern Lights dancing across the midnight blue skies on your journey through spectacular Scandinavia and style, Trondheim, a vibrant city packed with attractions and the icy realm of the

Discover the Norwegian Fjords

One of the most spectacular regions of the world, many argue that the only way to truly appreciate the scenery of

Enjoy the Northern Lights

Witness the magical green hues of the Aurora Borealis as they dance before your very eyes. The visible result of solar particles entering the Earth’s resulting in mysterious ripples and rays of light casting a mesmerising glow across the Artic sky.

21 Nights | Departing 26 November 2023

This amazing holiday includes:

River Cruise

4 night full-board river cruise on board Emerald Dawn Visiting: Vienna (overnight in port), Bratislava, Budapest (overnight in port)

Exclusive Event

Exclusive intimate performance by Aled Jones MBE

Full-Board Cruise

MS Polaryls

Visiting:

voyage if the Northern Lights do not make an appearance (T’s & C’s apply)

Hotel Stays

2night four-star hotel stay in Vienna at the Theaterhotel & Suites Wien

2 night four-star stay in Copenhagen at the

All hotel stays include breakfast

wildlife, this iconic roundtrip gives you a glimpse of the jagged splendour of Norway’s picturesque spots along the way, you’ll discover the beguiling lesser-trodden streets of some of

AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

Unexpected Canberra wins my heart

CLARK

Canberra is quiet and comfortable, perfectly planned and easy to get around — but at first it strikes me as too clean and not “lived­in” enough.

This can probably be accounted for by the city’s shorter history than cousins Sydney and Melbourne and the fact it was actually planned out — qualities I come to love towards the end of my six­day trip.

My mum said every kid has to go to Canberra and I now know she is absolutely right. From e­scooters to Monet pieces, this trip is well worth the four flights and two cold Canberra days.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE AND OLD PARLIAMENT HOUSE

A pilgrimage to Canberra isn’t complete without a stop at Parliament House. Wow, is it worth the uphill walk.

The marble foyer is a cool welcome from the outside heat and not at all the darker, carpeted entrance I had expected. I had booked an Indigenous tour of the house and it was a great decision — the Yeribee tour is informative and moving, and much better than meandering through the place on my own.

The tour invites guests to hear the stories of Indigenous parliamentarians, explore the site history of Parliament House, gain insights into how Australia’s First Nations peoples are participating in the democratic processes, and enjoy significant artworks from the Parliament House Art Collection by celebrated Indigenous artists.

A highlight for me is to learn the history of and meaning behind Kumantje Jagamara’sartwork Possum and Wallaby Dreaming which sits at the entrance of the house and is made up of coloured granite pillars buried in the ground.

I was told many times before my trip that Old Parliament House is a non­negotiable stop and I now agree. With old­world charm and easy­to­digest history panels, the museum situated inside gives a run­through of key moments in Australian politics and the importance of a free press.

THE NATIONAL GALLERIES

The grand architecture of the National Gallery of Art building is art in itself, yet it doesn’t detract from the masterpieces within.

Mandatory cloaking for larger bags and water bottles is in place, with a sign noting the gallery is concerned about recent climate activist vandalism.

On entering, I’m met with a peculiar mix of contemporary sculpture and Sidney Nolan’s mid­1900s Ned Kelly series. My favourite collection of pieces, however, is down the hall and in the opening which links to the stairs and special exhibition area. A series of Andy Warhol’s Campbell Soup cans are on one wall and four Roy Lichtenstein prints on the other. It is like it was curated just for me.

Other highlights include Jackson Pollock’s Blue Poles, the Aboriginal Memorial by Ramingining artists, Monet’s Waterlilies and Cressida Campbell’s dedicated exhibition.

The National Portrait Gallery is just across the way and houses tens of thousands of portraits of great people — though visitors only have the privilege of seeing 6 to 10 per cent of the collection, depending on when they visit.

NATIONAL LIBRARY

The National Library should be on everyone’s list. It doesn’t take long to take in the beauty of the building from the foyer as large stained­glass windows set a backdrop to the bookshop and main cafe.

I am so glad I convinced my family to make a stop here, as I make my way into the exhibition of the library’s collection of realia, including some of Eddie Mabo’s art, breast plates worn by Aboriginal men who had helped European settlers and a kettle that Queen Charlotte gifted naturalist Joseph Banks.

Unfortunately, the main reading room is closed, but I venture to the members­only room to have a sneaky look. It is gorgeous and makes me want to sit down and devour a good book.

I buy a book on photography techniques and make my way out, a bit sad to leave the grand building.

NATIONAL WAR MEMORIAL

The memorial is big and it shocks me to learn only a mere 3 per cent of the collection is on display at any given time with the remainder in storage at another location.

I travel up to the memorial in an Uber but am instantly disappointed I didn’t walk up because many monuments line both sides of the road and I want to look at them. Nevertheless, as I walk into the foyer I feel small next to the fighter jets and it is obvious the exhibit of wartime memorabilia will be sizeable and thoughtfully displayed.

The visit leaves me feeling a mix of sadness, anger and pride but I know it was

MADELEINE

has a change of mind in the country’s capital

Reflection pool at the National War Memorial. Pictures: Madeleine Clark

Stained glass windows in the National Library.

a necessary visit to pay my respects to those who selflessly fought wars for my freedom. The memorial’s aural and visual qualities make this a stop that can’t be missed when visiting Canberra, so ensure you secure a timed ticket before heading over.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AUSTRALIA

The museum is so incredibly packed with the nation’s memorabilia, it is a little overwhelming. Nevertheless it is absolutely a non­negotiable spot to visit on your Canberra visit. A well­balanced mix of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander history and colonial history is presented with quirky and varied cultural highlights in between.

Whether you are there to see specific items such as the great Phar Lap’s ginormous heart or to take in the country’s history through various themes, there is something for everyone at the museum.

If you like to read everything, set aside an entire day for this monumentally large collection. Otherwise about three hours will do it, but don’t expect to take it all in.

Running until August 27, travelling exhibition Feared and Revered on loan from the British Museum is a must­see. Exploring

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five themes in which femininity is regarded through time and culture this exhibition is an eye­opener to the way feminine energy and power has been manipulated over time. Adult tickets will cost you $22 if you pre­book or $25 at the information desk.

AUSTRALIANS & HOLLYWOOD EXHIBITION AT THE NATIONAL FILM AND SOUND ARCHIVE The National Film and Sound Archive is just down the road from the National Museum and certainly worth a visit. The

archive’s current exhibition, Australians & Hollywood is a glamorous dive into the Australian influence on the silver screen.

The dystopian world of Mad Max is displayed with a neat collection of customised steering wheels.

Turning the corner of the small exhibition, the many endeavours of dynamic duo Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin are on display including costumes from Elvis and Moulin Rouge.

Stars Nicole Kidman and Kylie Minogue feature and costumes from Muriel’s Wedding and The

Costumes from the recently released Elvis movie, designed by Catherine Martin.

Sapphires are brought to life. Indigenous storytelling is explored through behind­the­scenes footage and profiles on Aboriginal talent such as director and screenwriter Warwick Thornton.

Buy tickets online to secure 15 per cent off before you head over.

E-SCOOTERS

OK, hear me out, I know they can be a nuisance but, oh my, do I have fun on the e­scooters in Canberra. My travel companions and I ditch Uber and public transport for Neuron scooters every chance we get, getting used to cruising along Lake Burley Griffin between the city centre and Kingston foreshore each day.

I would be remiss to not include this fun and economical way to get about the nation’s capital even if it did feel like everyone was staring at me at first. If you have a smartphone and are willing to  look a little silly, I can guarantee you this is the best way to get around — you will see more and save your feet.

The National Film and Sound Archive. Pictures: Madeleine Clark

A portrait of Queen Victoria etched in acid on a mirror.

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The falls at Lata Kekabu, one of the Lenggong Valley’s many natural attractions.

Asia’s least known world heritage site

MARCO FERRARESE reveals a green gem in Malaysia

From Siem Reap in Cambodia to Hoi An in Vietnam, Luang Prabang in Laos and George Town on the Malaysian island of Penang, UNESCO World Heritage inscriptions have transformed some cities into tourism success stories.

But the Lenggong Valley, Malaysia’s fourth UNESCO World Heritage site in northern Perak state, is an exception. On June 30, 2022, the town celebrated 10 years since UNESCO nominated it, recognising the importance of its archaeological sites. But even after a decade, neglect and lack of

co­ordination still hinder the Lenggong Valley.

“Foreigners were surprised to see that a UNESCO site could be so underdeveloped,” says Lenggong native Ng Hock Sen, a local councillor from 2013 to 2017 and the owner of four­storey Soon Lee Hotel — the tallest building in his one­horse tropical home town. Ng campaigned for years to promote Lenggong to tourists, most often chaperoning them around the sites in his own car to get around the chronic lack of transportation.

I was one of them. Back in 2015, curious to visit this UNESCO site, I stepped on Lenggong’s diminutive main road, but there was no signage or any trace of visitor information. Ng approached me kerbside and insisted on helping me see everything worth knowing.

“Nothing much has changed since the listing. The people in charge launch initiatives that are disconnected from the actual needs on the ground,” says Adrian Abu Bakar, who moved from Kuala Lumpur to Lenggong a few years ago and has tried to develop agro­tourism ever since. “(Local) tourism operators continue to work in silos and Lenggong remains one of the best potentials in the region, but is surrounded by obstacles for tourists to actually visit.”

The small town of Lenggong doesn’t look like much at first sight. On Interstate 76 between the towns of Kuala Kangsar and Gerik, it’s a concrete and corrugated iron scar in a lush valley encased by two mountain

ranges: the Titiwangsa in the east and the lower Bintang in the west. Strategically set on the Perak River, Lenggong was once a part of the 19th century semi­independent Patani­Siamese kingdom of Reman, but the valley around today’s town has a much older historical significance.

Carved into the Earth by a meteorite impact 1.83 million years ago, the Lenggong Valley boasts four main archaeological sites scattered in two clusters to the north and south­west of town. They span close to two million years, with cultural remains from the Palaeolithic, Neolithic and Bronze ages testifying to one of ancient humankind’s longest settlements in a single locality — the oldest outside the African continent.

The south­western cluster includes several open­air sites, like Bukit Bunuh, the 3.45km­wide meteorite crater that today lies in a palm oil plantation. The rare suevite rocks that formed here from the collision revealed embedded traces of some of the

oldest hand axes found outside Africa. Lenggong’s northern archaeological cluster groups more than 20 caves that pierce the Bukit Kepala Gajah limestone massif. The most famous are Gua Gunung Runtuh, where in 1990 a team led by Professor Zuraina Majid unearthed the remains of 10,120­year­old Perak Man, and the burial cave Gua Harimau, with another 13 younger skeletons found between 1987 and 1995.

Perak Man is the oldest, most complete human skeleton ever found in South­East Asia. Born with brachymesophalangia type A2 — a very rare congenital condition that causes shortened and abnormally angled middle bones in the fingers — Perak Man was found in the foetal position,

Nasir Jalaludin of Rumah Tiang 16 in front of the entrance to Gua Puteri.

Lenggong's Archaeological Gallery is still closed.

NATURAL BEAUTY

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surrounded by hundreds of shells and other artefacts, leading archaeologists to assume he was worshipped as a disabled shaman.

The ancient skeleton was returned to Lenggong from Kuala Lumpur’s National Museum of Malaysia in October 2013, becoming the centrepiece of the Lenggong Archaeological Museum in Kota Tampan. Located 8km away from the township, the museum sits next to an ancient stone workshop.

Looking into the crevasses and cracks of Perak Man’s faceless skull, however, has never been an easy task. Not only is there no public transport, but the museum is again closed after two years of renovations and a short spell in 2020 when national borders were shut. Even the cave sites had been fenced off to avoid vandalism well before my first visit seven years ago, and require authorised local guides — once provided free of charge by the museum, the guides now offer freelance services.

Despite intermittent funding and concerning coverage in the local media, improvements to the caves and other open­air sites are rare. The wooden pathway that leads visitors around the Bukit Kepala Gajah cave complex only covers the first section between Gua Kajang — a burial cave first excavated in 1917 by British ethnographer and anthropologist Ivor Hugh Norman Evans — and Gua Asar. Supporting cement poles are stuck at the side of the remaining slippery jungle stretch to Gua Puteri — a large cave — and the fork to Gua Ngaum, a human dwelling dating back 7000­8000 years. The caves are unlit and surrounded by overgrown vegetation.

Throughout the years many have blamed the lacklustre upkeep of the sites on jurisdiction problems between Malaysia’s Federal and the Perak government, which manage different parts of Lenggong’s heritage area. But local villagers also lack understanding and appreciation for the UNESCO title, and after waiting in vain for the town’s economy to bloom, started fuelling the rubbish piles that rise next to broken boardwalks and rotting signboards. Tourist operators resist, but the cake is too small and competition is high.

“The concerned agencies must work together and eliminate any overlapping or grey areas,” says Nasir Jalaludin, a Lenggong native who returned to the valley after working abroad in the hotel industry. “Basic infrastructure is needed, such as better mobile data coverage, accessibility via public transport, and a sufficient offer of good­quality accommodation for

guests to stay overnight.”

In May 2019, Nasir launched Rumah Tiang 16, Lenggong’s first and only boutique­style accommodation, from his family’s traditional Malay house made of chengal and meranti wood, and has become a staunch advocate of the area’s many attractions. His tailor­made three­day/two­night program includes visits to Lenggong’s archaeological sites, cultural and food experiences in the valley’s Patani Malay villages, and sunset boat rides onCenderoh Lake to the south of town. He also campaigns for teaching locals to become hosts and guides.

Besides UNESCO mishaps, Lenggong may not have played all its cards yet. In December 2021 the valley was declared a national geopark, for which new signage was fixed at most points of

interest. But beyond that and making a “Lenggong Fun Map” for tourists in the Malay language, the new title was not promoted enough to lure more visitors.

More hope came in April 2022 when Penang­based consultancy and project delivery partner Think City launched the RM10 million ($2.3m) allocation Cultural Economy Catalytic Grants program, focusing on the heritage protection of Lenggong and two other nearby towns in northern Perak, Kuala Kangsar and Taiping.

The second cycle of grants opened in August but, after 10 years, locals walk with leaden feet. “We hope that this new collaboration will finally help visitors stay longer and appreciate Lenggong’s forlorn heritage and history,” Ng says.

View of Lenggong town at sunrise.

The Perak Man.

How to avoid daylight robbery

STEPHEN SCOURFIELD warns against pickpockets

The combination of travellers being out in the world, a bit out of practice, and the downturn in so many economies comes with its challenges.

One of them is needing to be aware of pickpockets.

Pickpocketing is far from a new problem (I’m sure lots of us can still sing You’ve Got to Pick a Pocket or Two from Oliver! as Fagin teaches Oliver the “art”) — but it is, perhaps, even more significant today, because we have so much invested now in our wallets and phones.

Lose your credit cards or phone and you can have a pretty big hiccup in your holiday.

Reader “Ian from Bunbury” (we withhold his surname to protect his privacy) was pickpocketed at Berlin Hauptbahnhof — the city’s main railway station.

He writes: “Having somewhat naively been the victim of pickpockets, can you recommend how best to secure items such as wallets on one’s person whilst on the move, particularly in tourist hotspots?”

We believe that where one reader has a question or issue, there are likely to be others, and we take these prompts for stories seriously.

So here are my hints and tips — some practical, but others about attitude, observation and how we present ourselves . . .

Easy pickings for pickpockets are people who are distracted or look like they can be easily distracted — for example, if you are very focused on your phone or dealing with companions. Try to pay attention to your surroundings and the people around you.

Some pickpockets simply work on the theory they can run faster than their victims. The obvious target is a bag placed on the empty seat next to you.

When there are people around you, you have to be aware and vigilant — particularly in sightseeing areas.

And suddenly it's gone. Pictures: Getty

THE AIRPORT CHECK-IN QUEUE TRICK

“Please be careful with your property,” my friend and guide Sandra Rodriguez tells our group of Travel Club Tour travellers.

“We have a lot of pickpockets.

“Like anywhere in the world, but especially here.”

With the economy in freefall and after more than two years of the COVID­19 pandemic, they are hungry and busy — “for you and even for us,” Sandra says.

Indeed, in the streets, I see locals with cross­body bags, walking with one hand on the zip. There’s barely a necklace or watch in sight.

Sandra warns pickpockets are busy in public places, and particularly at Buenos Aires’ two airports — the domestic Jorge

Newbery Airfield and especially Ministro Pistarini International Airport (usually called Ezeiza).

Ezeiza is busy, and it’s easy for them to bump against people.

But Sandra warns of a particular technique.

The pickpockets join check­in queues which, at the moment, can be long and slow. As they snake along, passengers doubling back and back again, the pickpockets do their work. When they get to the front of the queue, instead of going to a check­in counter, they just walk off.

ATTITUDE & AWARENESS

What I might call “situational awareness” is pretty much your best protection. You need to be aware of what’s going on around you, certainly within a 20m radius.

The more tuned in you are to your immediate surroundings, and the people around you, the better it will be — not just because you are alert, but any pickpockets around you will see that you are alert, and that’s an alarm signal for them.

One of the main things to remember, also, is that pickpockets are likely to work in a pair or group, because distraction is a very useful tool for them. Let’s paint a scenario: someone approaches you with a tourist survey, drops their papers, you bend down to help, and their accomplice moves in, unseen by you. It’s pretty much textbook — one gang member distracts the victim, and others move in. If a stranger approaches you, look for a potential accomplice.

Of course, pickpockets like busy areas because there are already built­in distractions, and you are more likely to ignore a little bump or jostle.

A common ruse is for pickpockets to pick on nice people

— folk who look like they will help others. A classic routine would be for one pickpocket to drop something in just such a way that the traveller goes to pick it up for them, and an accomplice steals from them. I hate to say it, but be cautious about helping.

It might be counterintuitive, but travellers can also appear too cautious — too over­protective.

If you look nervous and are clutching at stuff . . . well, you can make it obvious that you have valuables to safeguard. Consider your body language.

Don’t continually pat your pockets or check for your wallet.

Pickpockets are likely to work in a pair or group, because distraction is a very useful tool for them.

There are times when you are travelling when you will be in a “high­traffic area” and what we might call “in transit”. You might be at a train or bus station, trying to work out where to go, and unfamiliar with the flow and rhythm of the people moving around you. It’s a good opportunity for a pickpocket.

Only carry with you the items you really need — leave everything else in the hotel safe. If you have a set of credit cards, you probably only need to carry one when you are walking round a city. Split your precious items up; thin them out.

In pants, front pockets are safer than back pockets, but experts prefer us to keep wallets and cash in a closed, anti­theft style bag.

Pickpockets often work as a team and use distraction.

ALL ABOUT BAGS

Choosing a good “anti­theft” bag or purse is a good start. Wear that bag, purse or wallet in front of you, with your head tucked through the strap, hanging across your body. Keep a firm hold on the opening, as much as you can.

BAD BAGS

Let’s start with bad ones — and top of  the list is a “drawstring bag”, which is one of the easiest to steal from, and particularly drawstring backpacks. They work, of course, by pulling the strings, but rarely close fully, and for a skilled pickpocket, removing items from them is pretty simple. I remember a local police officer in France telling me even a novice pickpocket can fairly easily  slip a wallet from a drawstring bag.

Then there is the “flap bag”, which pickpockets also like. They often have just one big pouch covered with a flap, and quite usually just a magnet­style fastener.

Bags and purses with zips. This is better by far than the first two — but a zip alone may not be enough of a deterrent. A practised pickpocket will open a zip  without the owner feeling it . . . particularly when they couple that with distraction.

Clutch purse. Because they are smaller, they are more likely to be “in hand” and harder to target. But, by the same token, you’ll have to put it down sometime, and then it’s very vulnerable.

A shoulder bag which you don’t

wear “cross­body” literally just hangs on one shoulder and is vulnerable — not just to “snatch and grab”, but they often have an outside front pocket which is easy to slit with a sharp knife, and phones are often kept in there.

GOOD BAGS

We are basically looking for a cross­body, anti­theft bag. Bags will say they are “slit­proof”, for example brands like Pacsafe. Just to be clear — cross­body bags are worn from one shoulder to the opposite hip, with your head through the strap.

Zips really are a good line of defence. Slip the bag strap over your head, and get into the habit of holding the zip. I have put little carabiner clips on all my bags so I can secure the tab of the zip — but I still rest my hand on that in crowded spots.

Some bags have zip tabs that are pushed into a lock. This is a very good feature.

I also add a little strap to my camera bag so I can clip it to my belt when I’m carrying it.

Most bags have a strap that unclips — so just unclip one end, push it through the back of that cafe chair you’re sitting on, and clip it up again.

Slash­proof bags have a thin and flexible wire inside the strap.

A bag with a slash­proof, reinforced bottom and sides helps prevent cut­and­run thefts.

You can be more secure digitally, too, by choosing bags made with RFID­blocking materials. This aims to prevent “ePickpockets” from scanning and stealing credit card information.

Riding the crest of aWAVE

From expedition ships to small and medium­sized vessels to the big ocean liners, cruising is back, faster and more comprehensively than even we’d expected. In this 14­page Cruising Guide, we look at how that has happened, what’s on offer and the new ships and itineraries, and we experience voyages from low­cost to luxury.

Signs of the comeback are right across the board, but there are standouts, like the interest in voyages to see the northern lights.

I think the pick of those is Viking’s 13­day voyage, In

Search of the Northern Lights from London to Bergen or vice versa, which has been on sale as part of Viking’s Explorer Sale from $6895 per person.

Guests are, of course, in Viking’s home waters, sailing far north during Norway’s winter to a land where dawn and twilight merge. And, as guests look for smaller ships and more intense experiences, Viking’s ocean vessels fit the bill, taking a maximum of just 930 guests, all in veranda staterooms.

At the bigger end of the scale, Royal Caribbean Group president and chief executive Jason Liberty says Royal

Caribbean ships are sailing at full capacity as 2023 begins.

Royal Caribbean Group expects more than 8 million guests in 2023.

The inaugural sailing of the new Icon of the Seas isn’t until January 2024, but Royal Caribbean president and chief executive Michael Bayley says: “We opened up Icon of the Seas for sale a few months ago, and that ship has literally been the best­selling product in the history of our business and has been absolutely outstanding in terms of the demand and the pricing that we’re generating for that product.”

From chasing the northern lights to going big in the Caribbean, Travel Editor STEPHEN SCOURFIELD finds cruising is all systems go

DOOR-TO-DOOR ALL-INCLUSIVE WITH 15% REDUCED AND REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT*

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departure airport from each gateway city. Deviations to air travel dates accepted; surcharges may apply. All fares, savings, offers, itineraries, and programs are subject to change without notice. Voyage highlights, excursions, and enrichment programs are subject to change and/or cancellation without prior notice. All information contained herein is accurate and in effect as of 10 December 2022. Silversea reserves the right to correct any errors and omissions and to cancel any offered product or service in the event of such error or omission. The promotion is capacity controlled and can be removed at any time. Additional restrictions may apply. For complete terms and conditions and promotional period dates visit silversea.com

HOW THE TIDE TURNED

STEPHEN SCOURFIELD reveals a big turnaround out on the oceans and rivers

Cruising is back. Really back.

It’s not hard to think back to pandemic days when cruise ships were shunned, shut­up and anchored.

It seemed a very long, fraught voyage back to normality. (At times it seemed almost impossible to envisage how that would happen.)

But that isn’t how it has played out.

Bookings for sailings in European waters this year are predicted to be more than 30 per cent higher than in 2019 — and the same percentage prediction applies to cruises in Alaska.

My Cruises general manager Michael Middleton says itineraries are selling out quickly. That has brought with it the need for My Cruises, as a seller, “to be nimble and get new cruise holiday packages to the broader market as soon as they’re released”. And that prompted it to develop and launch a downloadable digital brochure.

Silversea luxury cruise line will sail five times as many itineraries of 21 days or longer in 2023 than in 2019.

Cruising is a mature industry, with lots of “component industries” or categories — from expedition ships to small, bespoke ocean ships with fewer than 800 passengers (and price tags to match), then the 800 to 1500­passenger ships, mid­sized ships carrying 1500 to 2500 passengers, the 2500 to 3500­passenger category, and then mega ships with more people aboard.

It is estimated that 20 cruise lines globally will expand their fleets this year.

THE LONG & SHORT OF IT

There are short sampler cruises, “out and back” in Australian waters, an absolute plethora of ships and itineraries in Europe and big repositioning and circumnavigation cruises.

There are fun ships with waterslides, “value ships” with lots of bars and restaurants and “silver service ships”. There are ships which are destinations in their own right, and others with itineraries which mean being on shore, engaged with countries and cultures is the point.

And cruising is back right across all those “mature industry” categories.

The demand for cruising to Antarctica is significant, as are inexpensive short cruises from Brisbane and Sydney.

The same is true across booking patterns, where some cruise

What is emerging is what many cruise industry insiders are now calling ‘the biggest year ever’. It is predicted that more than $35 billion will be spent on cruises in 2023.

and taking it aboard. There have been passengers sitting out isolation in their cabins, and others offloaded to hotels in port.

But those days are rapidly receding.

enthusiasts are looking long­term and booking big trips, others are snapping up cheap, short­term deals — and lots of travellers are doing both.

Even I hadn’t seen the “comeback” so hard and fast.

Part of this remarkable success story has to be attributed to the cruise lines themselves. They understood and really took up the need to lead the way on health and safety. Lots of new­build ships have more spacious public areas and reduced “shared air”.

Some companies have scaled back the number of passengers on existing ships.

Cruise companies also made the quite sensible point that being in an isolated and controlled environment was a better and safer way to travel than wandering round at random in big crowds.

There have been bumps along the way, of course, with passengers testing positive to COVID­19 and not being allowed to board a ship, or not being tested

In some cases, and on some ships, they are pretty much forgotten, in this vaccine­fuelled year of revenge travel.

What is emerging is what many cruise industry insiders are now calling “the biggest year ever”.

It is predicted that more than  $35 billion will be spent on cruises in 2023.

As one example, Cunard has just reported that it booked more passengers in the first week of January than any equivalent period during the last decade. A spokesperson for the luxury line, which is part of the massive Carnival family, says there has been strong booking for both 2023 and 2024. Cunard added new itineraries and innovative shore excursions to really plump up 2023, but a stand­out success are the bookings for Queen Anne, its fourth ship, which will come into service in May 2024.

So, there’s long­term planning, and there are short­term deals, too. At another end of the scale,

There are high hopes for future port sustainability  in Sydney.  Picture: Getty

Impression of Cunard's Queen Anne.

Royal Caribbean offered discounted prices on some Quantum of the Seas and Ovation of the Seas sailings — including an eight­night Quantum cruise from Brisbane to South Pacific islands from $699 per person. It has to be booked by 5pm, February 28, 2023 — but you can be sure that other deals will pop up throughout the year.

And, once again, at another end of a scale, in addition to small trips, there are big ones.

Viking has introduced a new 32­day Grand Australia Circumnavigation ocean voyage from Sydney return on Viking Venus, visiting the Whitsunday Islands, Great Barrier Reef, ducking up to the Indonesian islands of Komodo and Bali before sailing on to Fremantle, Adelaide, Melbourne and north­western Tasmania. Not only is it a long voyage, but this really is long­term planning, with only one 2025 departure. It is currently from $19,995 per person, with savings of up to $2000 per couple.

THE WAVE OF TRENDS

There are number of clear trends emerging, as the cruise industry quickly re­emerges.

Small ships are big news. There has certainly been outstanding demand for expedition and small (or “boutique”) ship cruising.

The “luxury” end of the cruise industry is booming — with the Mediterranean, Baltic Sea, Antarctica and Africa­Middle East­India voyages at the top of the list of itineraries.

As an indicator of this, the MSC Group’s 2023 plan included the launch of Explora Journeys — a new offering with purpose­built ships offering luxury experiences.

Royal Caribbean’s anticipated Icon of  the Seas is an indication of what we can expect in big ships. The ship was recently floated for the first time at the Meyer Turku shipyard in Turku, Finland, and is due to launch in January 2024. The 20­deck ship will have a water park, new areas just for families, big pool decks and carry up to 7600 passengers (10,000, if you count the crew).

While good­quality dining and bars are still a fundamental, the “passenger experience” is a new catchphrase. It’s bigger than just having a nice meal — it covers the cruise company and crew’s whole approach to welcoming guests.

Big voyages are big news. Across the industry, there is demand for voyages of at least 21 days.

The term “experiential excursions” is ringing around the cruise world, with operators aware of passengers’ desires for “exclusive, unique, and local” experiences. Feedback to cruise lines shows travellers’ desires to learn something new during their trips. That might be the Italian cooking lessons given by a countess in Venice on some Viking itineraries or Ponant’s ongoing partnership with French yoga club Le Tigre. And it spans the generations, as families opt for educational trips to locations such as the Galapagos Islands.

The demand for solo cruising continues to grow, as does the pressure for more deals where there’s no single supplement.

A report by strategy and operations consultant company Deloitte identifies that passengers

of all generations want and use self­service digital channels. So cruise operators need to keep working on that for booking, check­in, check­out and activity selection. Onboard apps will become increasingly important.

Locally, the Kimberley remains WA’s cruising icon — and this year’s big wet season will see waterfalls running well into the dry season.

ELEMENTAL IDEAS

Deloitte’s report into the cruise industry also identifies five elements that help differentiate the passenger experience:

Engage me “Engage me in a personalised, authentic and attentive way.”

Hear me “Listen to my needs, empathise with my situation and follow through.”

Empower me “Provide me  with the opportunities and access to drive my experiences the way  I want.”

Delight me “Create moments that surprise me and exceed my expectations.”

Know me “Know and remember me, my preferences and my needs.”

It concludes that all five elements influence the extent to which cruise operators can turn passengers into loyal repeat customers.

SEA-STAINABILITY

(Excuse me that one.) Environmental issues are a big subject in the industry, and operators have been responding through both ship design, the way they source provisions for those ships, their management of waste, and their impact on destinations. This is not just lip service, but has become embedded into company attitudes — and, on the practical side, they need to try to futureproof new vessels against future environmental regulations.

As examples, Viking’s ocean ships will run on hydrogen fuel cells and Hurtigruten has been converting vessels to hybrid power, aiming to cut CO2 emissions by 25 per cent. Silverseas’ Nova­class ships have dual­fuel engines and aim for zero local emissions while in port. MSC has a new ship powered by liquid natural gas called Euribia launching in June on LNG. A spokesperson adds: “All wastewater on board is directed to the water treatment system, so no water is allowed to leave the ship without specific treatment that cleans the water to very high standards.

“This avoids alien ocean organisms from being transported from one ocean area to other, which could threaten local ecosystems.”

Members of Cruise Lines International Association are jointly chasing net zero carbon cruising by 2050 — and an important aspect of that is switching off engines in port and using sustainable shore power. Sydney aims to become the first port in the southern hemisphere to offer such shoreside electricity, scheduled for the end of 2024.

The Viking Venus at the cruise terminal on the Liverpool waterfront in England. Picture: Peter Byrne/PA

The hybrid Roald Amundsen.

Solo adventures await in next chapter

My wife Pat and I went on 50 cruises with various cruise lines, 18 on Princess ships. We loved cruising and always had the deposit paid on the next one. We were booked on a Viking river boat from Basel to Amsterdam, and then a ship from Amsterdam to Bergen but COVID­19 and put a stop to it.

Then Pat was diagnosed with cancer. After a 20­month battle, she died in April 2022. I thought that would be the end of my cruising, but in December I had a five­day cruise on Grand Princess from Melbourne to Adelaide to “test the water”, as it were.

Emotionally, it was very difficult at first. We always travelled in a balcony stateroom on the upper decks, so purposely I booked a window stateroom on the lowest deck so it would be completely different. However, on the day before we sailed, I was advised I’d been upgraded to a balcony on one of the upper decks.

As a single traveller, the cost of a stateroom is only slightly less than if two are travelling.

Silversea has a special 25 per cent supplement on single fares on selected voyages, but the initial fare is more expensive than with Princess.

On previous voyages we had been allocated a table for dinner and we returned to the same guests every night to discuss the day’s adventures. We continued to correspond with people we met on our first voyage on Fairstar, and many of our table companions from following years. To us, it was a highlight of the voyage.

However, with the new Medallion Class check­in and other modifications, seating was at a different table each night. In fact, this worked out quite well because I was made to feel welcome by all.  I struck up a friendship with two — John from Ohio and his 19­year­old nephew Elijah, who it was revealed was a Victorian debating champion.

The Medallion Class token is a clever little devil. It knows you are approaching your room and

Guide for solo travellers

MedallionClass App

Make sure you download the app to keep in touch with activities happening onboard.

To join or not to join Join in activities like trivia or bingo as a way to meet other guests. Or spend time on your own; the choice is yours.

Singles and solos meet-and-greet Keep an eye on the activities onboard and take up the open invitation for single travellers to get together in one of the ship’s bars or lounges.

Dining Request to dine with other guests and chat about your day. Use the MedallionClass App (Dine My Way) to request a shared or single table before sailing, or request once aboard.

Book Princess shore excursions A great way to meet other guests and enjoy common interests.

unlocks the door. It was my birthday, and when I was waiting for a lift, “Happy Birthday Barry O! ” came up on the screen.

Ever get the feeling Big Brother is watching you?

An unhosted get­together for singles was advertised in the Princess Patter, the daily activity sheet. We sat around, a little self­consciously, until Bobby from Perth, who had been in the armed forces, took control. After introductions, a lively chat session

ensued. The group met every day at the same time.

There were only three planned ports of call: Philip Island, Port Lincoln, and Kangaroo Island.

What a disappointment when it was announced a decision had been made to miss Philip Island.

The ship had fuelling problems because of rough weather the day before, and had to be fuelled on the day we were supposed to be there.

This, and the likelihood of rough weather, put an end to hopes of watching fairy penguins marching up the beach. An additional group of onboard activities for the day was quickly planned.

After a day at sea on our way to Port Lincoln, we awoke to a sparkling, beautiful day in this magnificent city, dubbed the seafood capital of Australia with a population of about 16,000.

It was once considered by Matthew Flinders as the State capital, but Adelaide was chosen because of its access to fresh water.

Many passengers were anxious to order some King George whiting and chips and sit on the beach to eat them. Word quickly spread among the seagull population.

A shuttle bus took passengers from the jetty to the town centre for $6 return. Another shuttle did a

tour of the city. The statue of triple Melbourne Cup winner Makybe Diva was muchphotographed.

Taxis were at a premium, but not impossible. I shared a cab with Neil, my trivia partner, and we looked at the tuna boats, racecourse (where I’d had a bit of success at the carnival during my horseracing phase) and the Winter Hill lookout, as well as other points of interest.

After a delightful day, all passengers were looking forward to our Kangaroo Island visit. As we anchored off Penneshaw, a tender went ashore. On return, the captain announced that while the wind was manageable at the moment, it was due to pick up to unmanageable proportions during the afternoon. Slowly, we waved goodbye to the island and made our way up the gulf to the Adelaide terminal for our following morning disembarkation. I enjoyed the cruise although I will admit to some lonely, emotional times. However,I am confident there is still enjoyment and adventure to be had travelling solo.

In Port Lincoln, champion racehorse and triple Melbourne Cup winner Makybe Diva stands on the foreshore. Pictures: Barry O'Brien

After bereavement, BARRY O’BRIEN takes to the oceans again

The birthday message on the screen next to the lifts.

Magnificent Europe – 15 Days Amsterdam to Budapest

Unpack once and let Europe’s quaint towns and buzzing cities come to you. When you cruise Europe’s rivers with APT, everything you need is included and organised, even your flights, so you can rest assured the details have been taken care of.

• Go beyond the gates to explore Namedy Castle before enjoying an exclusive cocktail reception and piano recital.

• Travel aboard the Grand Empress steam train to Gödöllő Palace, the favourite residence of Elisabeth of Bavaria (April – September departures#).

•EXCLUSIVE – Enjoy a special visit to Vienna’s City Palace for a cocktail party and private recital.

AMSTERDAM Koblenz

GERMANY

14 Concerto River Ship

Würzburg

Bamberg

CZECH REPUBLIC

NETHERLANDS SLOVAKIA

Nuremberg Miltenberg

Rothenburg

Regensburg

Rüdesheim Passau

Salzburg

Český Krumlov

Vienna Dürnstein

Andernach Linz Gödöllő

Melk

AUSTRIA

EUMC15 Search trip code

Bratislava

BUDAPEST

HUNGARY

No-Fly Australasia Voyage & All-Inclusive

22 nights FROM ONLY $9,999PP

Board the exquisite Brilliance of the Seas®

either for newcomers to cruise holidays or seasoned travellers looking for new horizons and a beautifully bright ship from which to view them.

and outer rooms with large windows adds a real ambience of light and space to your fantastic cruise holiday. Guests can take a dip in the pool, pamper themselves in the spa, or spend the evening in one of several themed bars and restaurants.

Delve into the riches of Australia with an iconic transcontinental rail journey on board of Australia and New Zealand.

In Perth you’ll join Royal Caribbean’s astounding Brilliance of the Seas® for your 18-night cruise taking in the natural beauty and diverse landscapes of coastal Australia and New Zealand. On board, you’ll be treated to spectacular amenities, an attentive service, world-class dining, stellar entertainment and a stunning nine-story central atrium, making your time at sea a true delight.

Highlights of your cruise include calls to Adelaide bursting with culture, events and Hobart, as well as scenic cruising through Fiordland National Park renowned for its breathtaking collection of Fiords, staggering glaciers, majestic mountain ranges, dense forests and alpine lakes.

With no better way to see an all-encompassing view of Australia than by rail, you’ll everchanging landscapes and an opulent atmosphere. Your iconic all-inclusive journey will unlock unforgettable scenery showing you a whole new perspective of Australia, following in the path of bush pioneers and gold rush prospectors as well lifetime.

Arriving in Perth, your journey will glide to a halt; from here you’ll disembark to begin your journey home.

Rail journey on board

train taking in awe-inspiring everchanging landscapes. You’ll destinations such as KalgoorlieBoulder, Nullarbor Plain, Adelaide your journey, you’ll wind through providing ample opportunity to journey as you approach Sydney.

Discover Fiordland National Park

Southwest New Zealand, where mountain peaks and rugged landscape will captivate even the most

22 Nights | Departing 1 March 2024

Full-Board Cruise

18 night full-board cruise on board Brilliance of the Seas®

FREE Inside to Balcony cabin upgrade

Visiting:

All-Inclusive Rail Journey

FREE OCEAN VIEW fr $9,999PP

3 night all-inclusive rail journey on board the Indian wines, and beverages

Kalgoorlie, Rawlinna, Cook, Adelaide and the Hotel Stay

1 night four-star hotel stay in Sydney with breakfast

BALCONY fr $9,999PP

Saturday,February11,2023

Welcome to paradise, for real

MOGENS

JOHANSEN has a big day out in Bora Bora and loves it

Ahhh, the serenity. Bora Bora, the jewel of the South Seas . . . I can scarcely believe it, but here I am.

It feels worlds away from the busy life back in Perth.

And it is. The tiny island is 5774km east of Brisbane, roughly halfway between Australia and the US and 258km north­west of Tahiti in the South Pacific — and a popular stop on many Pacific cruise itineraries from Sydney and Brisbane.

Bora Bora can rightly lay claim to being French Polynesia’s leading lady. It is indeed like the tourism brochures say it is and I’m instantly in love.

Bora Bora is part of the Leeward Islands of French Polynesia and the Tahitian name is Porapora which means “First Born”.

The ancient volcanic peak Mt Otemanu rises dramatically to a sharp point 727m above the turquoise lagoon where I’m standing. You can see it and its neighbouring peak Mt Pahia from just about everywhere on Bora Bora.

The island peaks are covered in lush tropical vegetation and tower over the lagoon, the Motus (small islands) with fine white sand beaches and the barrier reef that surrounds them.

My daughter Rebecca and I have just arrived in this island paradise on the Norwegian Spirit which is doing a bit of island hopping in French Polynesia en route to Australia where it will be cruising between Australia and New Zealand for the next few months.

Our tender drops us at Vaitape,

Mogens Johansen and Rebecca Anderson kayaking in French Polynesia. Picture: Rebecca Anderson

the main town on the island. Bora Bora has a population of about 10,000 and about half of them live here.

The obligatory “cruise ship market” is right by the small harbour along with a throng of people touting various tours and activities. But we bypass them to have a look at the town first.

Vaitape is a charming little place but not quite what I imagined. It’s totally different to most of the pictures you see from Bora Bora and its luxurious resorts. But different in a good way because it gives an insight into daily life of the people who actually live here.

Strolling around, we watch as the locals fill up their rather agricultural looking vehicles at the servo and do their shopping at roadside stalls selling fruit and vegetables or at a couple of the supermarkets in town.

It’s a stark contrast to us tourists who gravitate to the fancy pearl shops to buy Tahitian black pearl jewellery or to shops filled to the brim with cheap Bora Bora

T­shirts and other souvenir paraphernalia.

It doesn’t take long to do a lap of town so we turn our minds to what else we can fit into one day on Bora Bora.

For us it’s a relatively easy decision. We both love beach and water activities and there are plenty of options to choose from. Snorkelling in the shallow crystal­clear lagoon, stand­up paddleboarding or jetskiing are some of the offerings we consider but we hire a double kayak because it allows us to explore at a leisurely pace. It also allows us to store things like cameras, phones plus a bit of beach kit, like a mask and snorkel, in case we come across an irresistible snorkelling spot.

The kayak will also, we hope, allow us to get a closer look at one of the luxurious resorts with overwater bungalows.

Most of these resorts are located on private low­lying islands, called motus, inside the reef so unless you get on the water you won’t get

that Insta shot with the bungalows and the mountains behind.

We negotiate a deal which includes a taxi to and from a kayak hire place at Matira beach and in less than 20 minutes we are on the water.

I love the feeling of calmness and freedom that comes with being on the water in a kayak. And here that feeling seems amplified.

We paddle across colourful coral bommies in the shallow lagoon while listening to the sound of the waves breaking at the fringing reef only a few hundred metres from the shore.

There’s no need to put on the mask and snorkel, the view from the kayak is sensational.

A stingray resting in the sand below with only its eyes visible scurries away leaving a flurry of sand behind as we disturb its morning slumber. Opportunistic black­tipped reef sharks dart around looking for a feed.

On the island, modest beach­side shacks sit next to flashy resorts framed by coconut palms swaying in the gentle sea breeze.

It just looks so idyllic.

We paddle among the overwater bungalows at the Intercontinental

Tourists board a Le Truck tour.

Intercontinental Le Moana at Bora Bora. Pictures: Mogens Johansen

Le Moana and get that Insta shot with the bungalows and the islands behind.  We paddle across to Motu Piti and back to the Bora Bora Beach Club on Matira beach for a refreshing drink.

It’s like time is standing still. It feels like we’ve fitted a lot into the day already but we’ve only been kayaking for a couple of hours.

There’s still time for a land­based tour around Bora Bora before we have to be back aboard our cruise ship.

We choose a tour called Le Truck, which as the name suggests

is a truck but it has been converted to a fun­looking tourist vehicle with open windows.

It’s a scenic and interesting tour. Our guide gives us a running commentary from the cab of the truck while we enjoy the views from the converted truck tray behind.

The 32km round trip offers amazing views of the lagoon and the motus.

We stop at an iconic beach­side restaurant/bar called Bloody Mary’s for, you guessed it ... a bloody Mary cocktail.

Apart from the cocktails, Bloody Mary’s is famous for its fresh food and great ambience and because it is frequented by celebrities.

Each evening the daily catch from the local fishermen is displayed on ice and the staff will take your order directly to the chef.

When we visit, late afternoon, there are no fish or celebrities on display. The only guests are a few burly islanders wearing XXL Hawaiian shirts sitting at the bar. Still, we enjoy our visit and the Bloody Mary and continue our lap of Bora Bora.

We catch glimpses of the exclusive resorts on the motos in the lagoon, we see World War II guns and bunkers at Faanui Bay where about 6000 US soldiers settled during WWII to preserve the island from a possible Japanese invasion after the

attack on Pearl Harbor in Hawaii.

After the war, the American soldiers left behind cannons and bunkers but also about 60 children, and most of them grew up without knowing their fathers.

Soon after, we are back to where we started our day in Vaitape. The roadside fruit stalls have packed up and most of the shops are closing for the day.

Only a few of the most optimistic stalls at the “cruise ship market” are still open — hoping to lighten the wallets of a few passengers. Back on the tender heading out to the Norwegian Spirit we reflect on a busy day and turn our minds to the next island paradise we’ll visit.

It will have to be good to beat Bora Bora!

CRUISE AGENCY OF THE YEAR | 3X WINNER AFTA TRAVEL AGENCY OF THE YEAR

Rebecca Anderson at Bloody Mary's.

Street trader on Bora Bora.

& Northern Territory Discovery

This is a journey like no other, taking four days desert canopy of stars, traversing from the tip of the north to the depths of the south, or in reverse. You will be travelling on board watching the incredible landscapes slip past you at a top speed of 115 kilometres per hour.

Glide through the ever-altering landscapes of the Australian Outback in style and luxury on board the legendary Ghan Expedition, during an unforgettable journey from Darwin to Adelaide.

During an exciting four-night hotel stay in the Northern Territory's tropical capital, rich in Indigenous culture and unique natural landscapes, you’ll embrace the opportunity to explore the compact city both at your own leisure

National Park before you sail through moss green waters during a river cruise that will get you up close to spot a crocodile. A sunset cruise around the harbour will captivate you as you soak in the fantastic array of colours scattering across the glittering waters.

Following your Darwin stay, you’ll board the majestic Ghan Expedition for your journey south through the bewitching landscapes of the Australian Outback.

experience, following the tracks of pioneering explorers through the red heart of Australia, passing through parts of the great continent that most others cannot reach. Wind through the MacDonnell Ranges’ rusty red hues and the charms of the South Australian plains, as you tuck into gourmet meals prepared by professional chefs, using locally sourced ingredients. You’ll also enjoy included Alice Springs and Coober Pedy, uncovering ancient cultural stories and admiring stunning landscapes.

Arriving in the sophisticated city of Adelaide, you’ll disembark for your three-night hotel stay. Here you’ll have the chance to explore this cosmopolitan capital and enjoy a Northern Barossa tour.

Alice Springs & Field of Lights Tour

contains several types of typical Top End habitats including lush monsoon forests, unusual rock formations, waterfalls and cascades. Walk up to the giant termite mounds, travel views of the water cascading down to the deep waterhole at the base of the falls, view the breathtaking scenery and catch a glimpse of the local wildlife.

The Barossa Valley is ideally located in South Australia, northeast of Adelaide city centre. It’s a world-renowned wine-producing region, primarily its red wine and in particular shiraz. The area encloses a few towns, as well as an array during a wine tour.

10 Nights | Departing Aug 2023 - Oct 2024

This amazing holiday includes:

All-Inclusive Rail Journey

3 night all-inclusive rail journey on board

The Ghan Expedition from Darwin to Adelaide

Alice Springs and Coober Pedy including Nitmiluk Gorge Cruise

Hotel Stays

4 night four-star hotel stay in central Darwin with breakfast

3 night four-star hotel stay in central Adelaide with breakfast

Fully Escorted Tours National Park and waterfalls

Darwin sunset dinner cruise Barossa and Hahndorf highlights tour

Itinerary:

Life of luxury in a day aboard the Silver Muse

GEOFFREY THOMAS enjoys Silversea’s impeccable service

As the day dawns, there is a hint of  light through the double curtains.  On the Silver Muse, our spacious suite has a set of heavy drapes that divide the room, allowing an early riser — me — to watch the dawn from our lounge while not disturbing “her ladyship”, as my wife Christine now wants to be called.

It’s a quiet time to jot down thoughts about the journey so far. I wish this ship would slow; I am no hurry to get to Fremantle.

Christine gets up sometime later and it’s time to freshen up for breakfast. Our bathroom is huge for a ship, with a spacious shower and separate bath and all the fittings are top­class, something we have come to expect of Silversea. Everything is first­class.

This morning we decide to have breakfast at La Terrazza, at the stern. We score a table outside as some folks finish up. This is a great space. We are off Exmouth and the ocean is the most beautiful blue with a few white caps dancing across the water.

The swell is from the south and a moderate 2m,and the ship’s motion is barely noticeable. The moment we take our seats overlooking the wake, coffee is poured by one of the many attentive staff. We are not big fans of buffets and this is only one of two on this ship, but it is magnificent with all the health

protocols and screens in place.

The selections are amazing and the smoked salmon and smoked trout are lovely. We are having breakfast here tomorrow for sure.

Back to our cabin for some chill­out time. Christine immerses herself in complex crosswords and smiles as I suggest if she needs my help, she should just sing out.

The wi­fi is excellent and the standard free package is ideal for most needs. But for those who need to work on large files quickly, there is an upgrade which costs $157 for a seven­day package.

Lunchtime swings around quickly and our favourite venue is Hot Rocks, on the pool deck — deck 10. It’s open­plan but under cover, with views of the ocean from every angle. The waiters

know us, and champagne arrives along with the menu.

What culinary delight should we choose? The menu, like all on this dream ship, is expansive. We opt for corn chips and salsa — a selection of dips to go with the corn tortilla chips.

To follow, it’s a grilled salmon wrap with some delightful New Zealand Marlborough Sound sauvignon blanc.

We follow this with a stroll on the highest deck, with its walking track — though we don’t do justice to the intent of the carefully laid­out path. This is about taking happy snaps with the deep blue of the Indian Ocean as the backdrop.

We are amused by the sloshing pool below, which is really the only indication of the ship’s movement.

But that “onboard swell” is not bothering the two ladies frolicking in nature’s wave machine.

This afternoon we decide to take in a lecture by American journalist Terence Smith, who covered five US presidents — Nixon, Carter, Regan, Clinton and George W Bush — and four wars.

Smith is a double Emmy award­winner and worked at The NewsHour with Jim Lehrer, The New York Times, CBS News and Huffington Post.

It is a riveting lecture with tales of intrigue matched with some humour.

Smith confirms that Nixon was indeed tricky, Carter had great

ideas but couldn’t work with Congress, Nancy, not Ronald, ran the White House, and George W left too much to others.

We return to our cabin and our butler, Joseph, is laying out our table for afternoon canapes and champagne.

I muse that Christine had better not get use to this Lotto life.

This evening we have booked the Silver Note restaurant, a small intimate hideaway. Before it opens at 8pm, we spend an hour in the ship’s Panorama Lounge at the rear of the ship chatting with passengers from around the world.

All are excited about their first visit to WA and bombard us with questions about Perth and Fremantle, Margaret River, Busselton and Albany — places they will soon visit. We leave them a tad wiser and no less excited about what to see and experience.

The Silver Note does not disappoint. The menu is a take on tapas, with some fascinating dishes like the beehive, which is a taste explosion of a host of different raw fish with dips.

The service is subtle but attentive, with an empty wine glass staying that way for only seconds.

Somehow the waiters know what wine each passenger has selected from the host of offerings.

Lobster, lamb and beef follow — all cooked to perfection — but we pass on dessert and cheese.

Bed beckons. There is something about the sea air, not to mention the indulgence, that brings on the desire to rest and plan tomorrow.

Silver Muse. Picture: Silversea

Endless blue on Silver Muse.

Afternoon canapes and champagne.  Left: Christine and Geoffrey enjoy breakfast onboard.

It’s Marco’s solo role leading the Muse crew

GEOFFREY THOMAS speaks with the man in command

Capt. Marco Sangiacomo bounds up to greet me with a warm and firm handshake. “Delighted to meet, please have a seat.”

Marco has done it all and then some.

After nautical college he spent a number of years in the Italian Navy before moving to commercial shipping, where he spent 12 years on cargo and container ships. “I rose to the rank of chief mate,” said Marco, who insists on me using his first name.

“Then I decided my career needed a sharp turn and through some of my friends who were with Silversea, they told me to try out for Silversea. I applied and was hired in 2000 and then went through the steps of the career with Silversea. I became captain in 2004 and have served as captain on almost all of the classic Silversea ships. I haven’t done the Silver Moon and the Silver Dawn.”

Marco was assigned to the Silver Muse when it was commissioned in 2017.

The ship has a tonnage of 40,791 gross tonnage, while carrying 596 passengers in 298 cabins and 411

crew members in 262 cabins.

Of those crew, about 154, or 38 per cent, are “back of house”, which includes 36 engineering and 65 galley staff as well as 36 deckhands.

While most officers are European, there are about 50 nationalities among the crew, requiring officers to be multilingual.

This diversity strengthens the cruise line’s international focus.

Marco explains that the crew are very content and that is reflected in the fact that the cruise line has the highest retention in the industry at 65 per cent, with many 10­year plus crew members.

The crew told us that they had excellent quarters, with senior staff all having their own cabins. The captain and officers work a three­month on/off roster, senior

crew four months on, two months off, and junior crew six months on, two months off.

Marco waxes lyrical about the ship: “This one, I have to say, takes the sea very well and is very quiet. And even when the sea is rough the ship is quiet with little vibration.”

Marco explains that the Silver Muse is fitted out with the very latest in electronics that track every vessel around the ship and its course, and any conflicts. Even the small fishing vessels are tracked.

The Silver Muse has power in spades — or propeller blades. Marco explains that the four electrical generators are the heart of the ship with a backup 440­volt three­phase generator.

Propulsion comes from two 8500kW, 152rpm Wartsila

diesel­electric engines, two 1000kW four­blade bow thrusters, and one 1500kW four­blade stern thruster. These thrusters enable Marco and his crew to turn the Silver Muse around in its own length of  212m.

Marco and his crew have the right stuff: friendly yet efficient and smiles all round.

The dawning of a colourful palette over the Java Sea

GEOFFREY THOMAS celebrates a new day

Many, including me, will argue the most beautiful time of day is just before sunrise as the sky lights up, with all shades of pink and orange heralding the first rays of the warming sun.

Combine that with a glassy sea and towering thunderstorms in the tropics and you have the ultimate photographic palette.

That is exactly what I find at 5.30am in the Java Sea approaching Bali on the Silver Muse.

I cut a lonely figure at that hour on the top deck and am consumed by the magnificent colours of nature framed by Bali’s giant and unpredictable volcano, Mt Agung.

Our ship weaves left and right as we dodge hundreds of tiny fishing vessels little bigger than canoes, and our captain cuts the ship’s speed dramatically to avoid large bow waves that would disturb their fishing or even sink them.

I dart from one side of the ship to the other as the colours of the morning change almost every second. Soft pinks give way to stronger tones, and then orange hues evolve.

The towering thunderstorms become a canvas for nature to paint her morning

colours, and the sea a mirror of that masterpiece. This is just fabulous.

I juggle my iPhone 12 Pro with my Canon R7 mirrorless SLR.

I am soon joined by three other passengers

Above, sunrise on the Java Sea. Right, towering thunderstorms give nature a palette to paint the dawn.

and we all agree those who are still asleep have no idea what they are missing. If I was the captain, I would have Reveille played through the ship’s address system. You can’t miss this lightshow nature has provided.

Capt. Marco Sangiacomo aboard Silver Muse. Picture: Luca Locatelli

Magnificent pinks herald a new day. Picture: Geoffrey Thomas

Barcelona to Perth Luxury Cunard Voyage from

29 NIGHTS FROM ONLY $6,999PP

INCLUDING FLIGHTS, TAXES & TRANSFERS*

PRICE REDUCTIONS Journey on board Queen Elizabeth from Barcelona

Immerse yourself in the welcoming atmosphere of a Cunard cruise and savour the comforts of the Queen Elizabeth. From its ballrooms and diverse restaurants to its spacious outdoor areas and convivial lounges, the fabulous Queen Elizabeth encapsulates the elegance of a bygone age and provides the perfect environment for a thoroughly enjoyable cruise to Perth.

Embark on an epic adventure, with a one-night hotel stay in vibrant Barcelona, then a 28-night cruise on Cunard’s luxury Queen Elizabeth, sailing the Mediterranean Sea, Red Sea and exotic Asia to Fremantle.

Begin with a stay in Barcelona, the vibrant capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, where you’ll have time to savour the city’s world-famous art, architecture and cuisine.

Then embark the regal Queen Elizabeth for an unforgettable 28-night

Cunard’s spectacular heritage, sense of occasion and vast array of superior entertainment, dining and leisurely pursuits.

Heraklion, on the gorgeous Greek island of Crete, home to golden beaches and legendary ancient history, then take a scenic cruise through Egypt’s historic Suez Canal. Your next stop is Safaga, a port town famed of Luxor, beyond.

You’ll next arrive in Oman’s charming city, Salalah, which astounds with its natural wonders, stunning beaches and traditional Islamic architecture, then, Sri Lanka’s vibrant capital, Colombo, captivating with its colourful bazaars and colonial architecture.

Your next stop is the scintillating City-State, Singapore, which magically blends the traditional and modern and east and west, before cruising through the spectacular Indonesian archipelago. You’ll visit the dynamic capital, Jakarta, followed by beautiful Bali, known as the ‘Island of the Gods’ for its thousands of Hindu temples, mesmerising landscapes and idyllic beach life. Finally, disembark the Queen Elizabeth in Fremantle, Western Australia, where your once-in-a-lifetime journey concludes.

Explore captivating

Colombo

The island nation of Sri Lanka, former Ceylon, conjures up the exotic and the mysterious, and in this port of call in the colourful plenty to see and do that validates this – undoubtedly, one of the most atmospheric cities in the region! You’ll discover that life is drawn to the shores of Beira Lake, connected to the city via numerous colonial architecture built by the Portuguese and British, as well as glinting statues of gold Buddhas that gaze serenely over the water.

Discover the cosmopolitan capital, Barcelona

Enjoy a one-night four-star hotel stay in Barcelona, the Catalonian capital with an unrivalled zest for life. Synonymous with the eccentric buildings of architect Antoni Gaudi, it’s also home to the excellent Picasso Museum and a vibrant food scene.

29 Nights | Departing 29 October 2023

This amazing holiday includes:

Hotel Stay

1 night four-star hotel stay in Barcelona with breakfast

Cruise

28 night full-board cruise on board the Queen Elizabeth

- From hearty dishes to healthy snacks, light bites to elegant array of places to eat

highlight. See a dazzling stage show, enjoy black tie gala dinners and savour fabulous live music

where you can indulge in some ‘me time’ with a sumptuous massage or calming facial#

ALL FLIGHTS, TAXES & TRANSFERS* INCLUDED

28 Night Cruise: Barcelona, Heraklion (Crete), Suez Canal (scenic cruising), Safaga, Salalah (Oman), Colombo (Sri Lanka), Singapore, Jakarta, Bali, Fremantle (Perth)

INSIDE from $6,999PP

BALCONY from $8,999PP

OCEANVIEW from $7,999PP

GRILL SUITE Sold Out

All-Inclusive Africa Cruise, Luxury Blue Train & Safari Experience

The Norwegian Dawn Experience

Norwegian Dawn is perfect for solo travellers, couples and families alike with phenomenal amenities, great service and entertainment programmes people of all ages will adore. Experience Norwegian Cruise Line’s revered Freestyle Cruising concept on board, meaning throughout your cruise holiday.

Embark on the ultimate African adventure holiday with a resplendent Blue Train rail journey, thrilling Safari experiences and a stunning cruise of Africa’s west coast before a two-night hotel stay in beautiful Barcelona.

Arriving in South Africa’s ‘Mother City’ Cape Town, you’ll begin your unforgettable holiday with an overnight hotel stay.

Next, you’ll embark the lavish Blue Train passing through some of the most diverse scenery on the African sub-continent. This luxury, all-inclusive locomotive embodies style, class and elegance; from your indulgent suite to the Cordon Bluestyle dining. During your journey, you’ll stop at Kimberley to explore its Open Mine Museum before arriving in Pretoria.

Disembarking in Pretoria, you’ll transfer to Pilanesberg National Park for a threenight safari stay. Relish twice-daily game drives gifting wonderful opportunities to catch sightings of Africa’s world-famous Big Five*.

You’ll then return to Cape Town for a hotel stay. The following morning, you’ll join Norwegian Dawn to begin your cruise of a lifetime. On board you’ll spend the next 21 nights exploring beautiful gems along Africa’s west coast, as you voyage towards Europe’s Barcelona. Visiting Namibia, Angola, Senegal, Cape Verde and Morocco, to name a few, spot rare migratory birds in Walvis Bay, visit Le Musée des Civilisations de Côte d'Ivoire to discover cultural relics and crafts in Abidjan and marvel at pastel-coloured buildings in Cape Verde. As you discover colourful yourself infatuated with Africa.

Enjoy a luxury rail journey on board theBlue Train

The route from Cape Town to Pretoria is a journey of nearly 1,000 miles passing through some of the most diverse scenery on the African sub-continent. An allinclusive journey that embodies style, class and elegance; from your indulgent suite with its opulent marble bathroom and sumptuous bedding; your time on board will be a true delight.

Explore Cape Town

For a real sense of Cape Town, take a cable car to Table Mountain’s summit. From here you’ll savour panoramic views and discover tempting trails begging to be explored. Alternatively, head to the Watershed, a buttercup yellow building with near-endless souvenirs.

29 Nights | Departing 13 March 2024

29 nights FROM ONLY $12,999PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS, TAXES AND TRANSFERS amazing

All-Inclusive Rail Journey

2 night all-inclusive luxury Blue Train journey from Cape

All-Inclusive Cruise

21 night all-inclusive cruise on board Norwegian Dawn

Visiting: Cape Town, Walvis Bay, Luanda (Angola), São Tomé and Príncipe, Abidjan, Banjul, Dakar, Santa Maria, Santa Cruz, Arrecife, Agadir, Casablanca, Barcelona FREE Beverage Package, Specialty Dining, Shore Excursion Credits & Wi-Fi Package

Fully Escorted Tour

Pilanesberg National Park game drives

Hotel Stays

2 night four-star hotel stay in Cape Town at the Southern Sun The Cullinan with breakfast

3 night four-star hotel stay in Pilanesberg National Park at the Bakubung Bush Lodge with breakfast, lunch and dinner

2 night four-star hotel stay at the SB Plaza Europa

Barcelona or similar with breakfast

All

LIMITED TO ONLY 15 CABINS

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Music at the heart

Little Moora strikes a chord for RUARI REID

In the late 1990s, my grandmother left me her Beale iron frame piano, circa 1909. My great­grandfather’s violin, which was brought to Australia as a wedding gift for his son, was given to me by my uncle during a visit to Perth a few years ago. My grandparents’ marriage took place in Moora, which, as it happens, comes from the words for “good spirit” or “grandparent” in the Yued Noongar language.

Tales about hardy souls who made their way inland, settling down to work the land, raise livestock and start a future, abound in the Wheatbelt, and in Moora in particular. George Fletcher Moore explored the area in the 1830s and sheep grazing started about the 1840s. The Benedictine monks arrived in 1846 and pastoralists were encouraged to the area with discounted land prices. With New Norcia growing

under Dom Salvado, the mail service changed from a coastal run to an inland route. The telegraph passed through Moora in the 1870s.

With the arrival of a rail line in 1893, land sales of more than 400ha of prime farmland increased as did population growth, and within a few years Moora had a newspaper, a bank, mechanics and a small medical centre. It was known as the “capital of the plains”.

The Moore River which divides the town is also the line of a geological division, with rich red soil on the eastern side of the river part of the ancient Yilgarn craton, while the sand and gravel on the west are part of the more recent Dandaragan plateau. Clearing in the east has allowed for orchards, grain crops and livestock farming, while the poorer soils to the west are for wheat and sheep farming.

Men with trade skills were in great demand in the late 1890s, and with the gold rush increasing Perth’s population there were many arrivals through the ports at Albany and Fremantle. One such man was David Griffiths, a stonemason from New South Wales who supported his young family working hard 12­hour days in East Perth. A member of Trinity Church, David was asked by fellow Congregationalists to build stone and timber houses for them in Berkshire Valley, just outside Moora. Keen to escape the city and work for himself, he moved his family to Moora in 1906.

My great­grandparents David and Rose Griffiths had 12 children, and all were expected to help in some way with running the farm, cutting stone or looking after the younger children. David himself was busy as the stonemason for the Catholic and Anglican churches in the town as well as the Road Board offices and the rebuilt

post office. He built his own farmhouse, too, from sandstone quarried from his property and it still stands proudly, near the town.

When World War I broke out, the three eldest Griffiths sons enlisted, and chance brought two of them to fight alongside an English regiment in Beersheba. This meeting, where Australian larrikin spirit clashed with British regulation, convinced one young Lancashire lad to emigrate once the war ended, and so Charles Reid happened to arrive in Moora, where he set up a blacksmith shop.

Charles’ blacksmith shop has gone, but the old butcher’s shop from the 1930s remains, as does Melrose grocer store. The town is still a busy hub for the area and the locals have done a lot to encourage visitors. The Interpretive Walk around the town shows off the salmon gum trees and gives a good tour around the historic buildings. A short drive out to Jingemia Cave shows a collapsed roof cave with 26m­high walls and plenty of orchids in the

cooler months. In wildflower season, pink and white feather flowers, lilies and orchids make Moora a colourful destination. Carnaby’s black cockatoos roost in the old wandoo trees and more than 2300 species of flora and fauna live in the region.

As I drive to Moora along Great Northern Highway, my father points out the jamwood trees on the roadside. We stop off at New Norcia to see St Gertrude’s College, where my grandmother’s piano examinations were held. She would play for the weekend services at St James’ Anglican Church in Moora, and on weekends would be accompanied by an English blacksmith on a regimental violin at town dances in the Road Board Hall.

The instruments are no longer in Moora, but they are together again. I lift the piano lid and play a chord. I give the violin bow some rosin and try a scale. I am connected to them, and to Moora.

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St James’ Anglican Church, Moora. Picture: Ruari Reid

Perth Moora

Piano and violin on display. Picture: Ruari Reid

Indulge in the ultimate Bali Grand Hyatt escape with five shimmering pools and two waterslides, six restaurants and bars, and a serene spa.

• Seven nights in a spacious One King/Two Twin Beds Room with a private balcony

• Wake up to daily breakfast for two adults and two children at selected restaurants

• Savour daily gourmet lunch and dinner for two adults

• Be welcomed in style with one indulgent sunset cocktail per adult

• Unwind with one 60-minute massage per adult at the water palace-inspired spa

• Bonfire experience to toast marshmallows on the beach

• Up to two children (11 and under) stay free on existing bedding with kids club access and 50% off the a la carte food and drinks menu