Spring
HOME & GARDEN APRIL 2021
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Gearing up for gardening in 2021 Will the COVID gardeners return in 2021? Local greenhouses hope so STORY & PHOTOS BY CAROLYN LANGE clange@wctrib.com
SPICER – The snow had barely melted this spring when customers started calling the Green Lake Nursery in Spicer looking for vegetable seeds. In mid-March the owners stuck a note on the front door saying the seeds hadn’t
arrived yet, to ward off people who came to the door looking to snag bean, peas, corn and carrot seeds before they were gone – when the seeds hadn’t even arrived yet. Those calls requesting seeds could be a sign that people who started vegetable gardening in 2020 during the pandemic will be digging in the dirt again this year.
HIGH DEMAND
Like last year – when customers flocked to stores and bought out the stock of plants and seeds – area nurseries don’t quite know what to expect this year. But they’re hoping that first-time gardeners fell in love with growing their own food during the pandemic and will be back again this year. “We’re ramping up production,” said Lisa Grindberg, from Creekside Nursery in rural Pennock. “We’re assuming more people will be gardening.”
Patty Wall transplants bell pepper plants April 12 at Tom’s South Spicer Nursery. She and her husband, Tom, have operated the nursery for 35 years. ON THE COVER: Patty and Tom Wall grow nearly all the vegetables and flowers from seed that they sell at Tom’s South Spicer Nursery.
Grindberg started fielding phone calls in March from people checking to see if she would be selling certain varieties of vegetable plants. “I’m doing a lot more broccoli, cabbage, tomatoes and peppers,” she said. Last year Grindberg said she sold out of everything, despite reseeding every week and sometimes twice a week. A sign posted March 25 on the door “As soon as things were popping up, of Green Lake Nursery in Spicer was in people were buying them,” she said. “So response to numerous, early requests for we’re trying to get ahead of that this year.” vegetable seeds.
Grindberg said she doesn’t think items will go quite as fast this year, but predicts it will still be “overwhelming.” Tom and Patty Wall, from Tom’s South Spicer Nursery, said every day in 2020 was as busy as a typical Saturday, with customers buying bedding plants, shrubs and trees. The Walls, who grow nearly all of their stock from seed, have been in business for more than 35 years. Tom Wall said their greenhouses will be fully stocked this year
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and hopes that the 2020 gardeners will continue with their new hobby this year. Lou Brown, who’s been operating Lou’s Greenhouse across the Minnesota border in Big Stone City, South Dakota with his wife, Maria for 52 years, said they were fielding phone calls early this year. People were checking to see what the large nursery – which draws people from Willmar and as far away is Wyoming – will have in stock this year in their 17 greenhouses. “Last year was one of the busiest years we’ve ever had,” Brown said. They sold out in May in 2020 and Brown said “greenhouses expect a big year again.” Brown said he thinks more people are Vegetable seeds were in high demand during summer 2020 as first-time gardeners started finding joy in gardening. growing their own food due to the pandemic. It’s anticipated gardeners will be back again “Everybody’s very nice,” he said of their this year. customers. “We don’t run into one crabby person at all.” That’s actually a good thing. being overwhelmed with “a patch of Ella Roth, who’s worked at Green Lake weeds” or seeing tender vegetables eaten GARDEN-VARIETY ADVICE Nursery for 40 years and is well-known by “varmints,” Roth said. Grindberg said the first-time gardeners for her gardening acumen, said new garUsing chemicals to stop weed growth she’s talked with enjoyed growing their deners should start small. might seem like a good idea, but using own food last year, but some got frusThere’s nothing more frustrating than pre-emergents before you plant seeds trated and will likely scale back this year. planting a large patch of vegetables and could mean nothing will grow, she said.
Last year she saw a lot of grandparents with their grandkids in tow at the nursery. The elders were looking for ways to entertain the kids and “the best way was to plant a garden together,” Roth said. “Grandparents are always ready to say yes.” Roth said planting vegetables in pots is a great way to start if land isn’t available for a vegetable patch, but said a good soil mixture is needed, with compost added to the dirt and good drainage from the pots — which should be large. “You can grow anything in a pot,” Roth said. She said pots should not be put on hot patios or cement slabs because plants will be hot on the bottom and cold on the top and quickly dry out. When fruits, like tomatoes, are bearing, she said it’s important to provide plenty of water. While people are eager to get seeds planted in the ground, Roth cautioned about planting too early.. “Always be ready to get smacked in the face with that last frost,” Roth said. Last year eager — or inexperienced — gardeners put their tomato and pepper plants in the ground too early and they
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How to design a stunning spring garden KIERSTEN WILLIS Tribune News Service
Patty and Tom Wall check the plants April 12 in the greenhouse at Tom’s South Spicer Nursery, which the couple has operated for 35 years.
died in a late spring frost, which meant people had to head back to the greenhouses to buy replacements, she said. Because of the high demand for seeds and plants last year, some suppliers “borrowed” from the stock they would typically carry over for the next year. That could mean some shortages of certain varieties of seeds and plants this year. Grindberg said gardeners should get their seeds and plants early. “If you see something that’s in stock, get it,” she said. But wait to put those plants in the ground until the danger of frost has passed.
year. With people eager to grow their own vegetables, customers patronized smalltown nurseries. It was a “booming business” for hometown nurseries and greenhouses, which Roth called “hidden gems.” Many of those small nurseries sell vegetable seeds in bulk, which allows customers to dish up as much as they want, as a fraction of the price of pre-packaged seeds. Local greenhouses and nurseries also have experience and gardening advice to dish out to people eager to learn. “Go somewhere where you can get some help,” Roth said. There are “tips and tricks you can get from an old gardener.” SMALL TOWN NURSERIES Roth said she expects “another big year Because of the pandemic, some of the for all the nurseries, and hopefully it’s a pop-up greenhouses at large box stores good year for the smaller ones that people and grocery stores didn’t happen last discovered last year.” •
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As the saying goes, April showers bring May flowers and if you want to get the most out of your buds, you’ll have to take the proper steps to carefully design your spring garden. If you haven’t started on your garden this season, it’s not too late. Garden Gate magazine says depending on the temperatures and where you live that year, spring can begin anywhere from February to April. To get started, consider the space you have. While it may be tempting to go the route of simple rows along the ground, you can also expand your designs and take advantage of vertical space. “That includes walls, transitions, and what’s overhead. Going vertical adds a unique touch to gardens of any size,” designer Susan Morrison said in her book, “Garden Up! Smart Vertical Gardening for Small and Large Spaces,” which was co-authored by Rebecca Sweet. You’ll also want to take into consideration the kinds of flowers you’ll be planting. If your garden isn’t quite as lush as you’d prefer since last fall, The Spruce recommends pairing bulbs with hardy annuals. Suggested duos include tulips and primroses and daffodils and scented stock.
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“The resulting look will resemble a gardening magazine spread or public garden display you have admired,” the website noted. It’s not always just about the flowers, either. For a garden that will have your neighbors thinking it was designed by a professional, High Country Gardens advises mixing in ornamental grasses and shrubs, which will add texture, structure and movement. It’s also beneficial for local wildlife, as it doesn’t disrupt their habitats. The tallest flowers should be planted in the back while the shortest ones should be in the front for visibility. Each plant should always be planted in odd-numbered groups, too, beginning with three, five, seven and so on. Similarly, Better Homes & Gardens suggests incorporating variety when designing gardens. “Similar shapes and colors reinforce a theme,” the publication said. “But certain focal points, by virtue of their interesting character, deserve major attention. These focal points should stand out from the rest of the garden. Occasional accents, such as an arbor, a sculpture, or a specimen plant, help create balance in a garden between the reference points and the background.”
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TIPS FROM A MASTER GARDENER COMPANION PLANTING, COLD FRAMES AND MORE
BY SUE MORRIS Master Gardener
Companion planting is something to consider, no matter the size of your garden. The University of Minnesota says there are many benefits from using companion plants in your garden. If you plant early, short-season crops in the same bed as later maturing crops you will conserve space and grow multiple succession of plants in the same space, e.g., lettuce, spinach, radish and then transplanting peppers or tomatoes into the same area as the early crops mature. This saves space and helps with controlling weeds. Plants with taproots or tubers like carrots and potatoes can help break up compaction in the soil. Deep rooted crops like melons and tomatoes pull water and nutrients from deeper in the soil. Legumes (peas and beans) fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and reduce fertilizer needs. The three sisters way of companion planting has been used by indigenous communities for hundreds of years.
This is planting corn, squash and beans together. Corn provides a stalk for beans to climb and also is a deterrent squash vine borer. Beans provide nitrogen and squash can be a deterrent to raccoons in the sweet corn. Companion planting works in three ways to help manage insects. 1. Plants that emit odors can either repel insects, attract them or mask odors of other plants. 2. By attracting predator insects that will eat other insects, it will help manage pests. 3. Flowers can be visually distracting. If you have a garden full of the same plant, insects may find it more easily than if you have a variety of plants with different heights, colors, and textures. We have all heard how planting marigolds among your vegetables will keep insects away. However, the University of Minnesota tells us that this is not always accurate or backed by research. (But, if it works for you, keep planting them — they are beautiful to look at.)
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The University does say that there are some studies that show basil and marigolds can be effective at reducing thrips in tomatoes and intercropping with basil may even help promote tomato growth. However, they tell us that studies have shown that marigolds do not deter Colorado potato beetles. Squash and pumpkins are insect pollinated so by providing habitat and flowers throughout the season you can support bumblebees and other pollinators in your garden which will help improve pollination. Planting nasturtium and marigolds next to your squash plants can help reduce squash bug and cucumber beetle damage. Reminder not to start working in your garden until you can pick up a handful of dirt and when you squeeze it, it doesn’t stay in a ball. Many years ago I tilled my garden too early and dealt with hardpan all year. After that, I had Keith bring in peat soil from the field, mixed in leaves and grass, and never made the mistake of working the soil too early again. Early season crops can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked but wait
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until toward the end of May to set out tomatoes, peppers, squash or until all danger of frost is gone. Twenty years ago Wall O’Water was invented so we could get an earlier start on tomatoes and other late season crops. I used them successfully for many years but have gotten lazy and just plant later now. The theory is the sun warms the water in the cells of the Wall O’Water and protects the plant from overnight frost. And it does work. Cold frames and milk jugs are a good way to harden off seedlings. A cold frame is a shallow unheated box with a storm window on top that you keep open during heat of day. Milk jugs work but plants can grow out of them quickly. I have a bunch of five gallon pails with the bottoms taken out that I put around tomatoes and annuals to harden them off. They aren’t very attractive to look at but only need to be used for a couple weeks and protects them from spring winds. If you have limited storage, they aren’t practical but I have a lot of room on the farm.
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What can and cannot be composted
Avid gardeners know that compost can add vital nutrients to soil used in gardens, container plants and lawns. The fact that compost is so versatile and nutrient-dense may not even be its most admirable quality. Made from items used in and around the house, compost costs just about nothing to produce. The raw materials that make up compost come from organic waste. These can be disposables from the garden and kitchen, as well as other areas around the house. According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, yard trimmings and food scraps add up to 20 to 30 percent of the municipal solid waste in the United States. Turning waste into compost not only helps the landscape, but also the planet. Compost is relatively easy to make, and there are scores of materials that can be put into compost. But it is just as essential to know which ingredients cannot be used in compost.
OK FOR COMPOST
► Most organic materials, or items that were once living, can be used in compost. Plantbased items used in cooking, such as potato peelings, carrot skins, banana peels, cocoa hulls, coffee grounds and filters, corn cobs,
GARDENING TIPS From Page 5
apple cores, egg shells, fruit peels, kelp, and nut shells, can be added to compost. ► Other items from around the house, like unused kitty litter, hair, shredded newspapers and cardboard, leaves, flowers, paper, pine needles, ashes, and sawdust, can be successfully added to compost. Stick to items that are not treated heavily with chemicals.
DO NOT COMPOST
► Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials cannot go into compost. These are items like plastic, glass, aluminum foil, and metal. Pressure-treated lumber, although a natural material, is treated with preservatives and often pesticides that can be harmful if they leech into the garden. ► The small-gardening resource Balcony Garden Web indicates coated or glossy printed papers, such as those from catalogs, magazines, wrapping paper, marketing materials, and business cards, should not be added to compost piles because of the chemicals and inks used in these pages. ► Planet Natural Research Center says to avoid pet droppings from dogs and cats. Animal products like bones, butter, milk, fish skins, and meat, may decompose and start
to smell foul. Maggots, parasites, pathogens, and other microorganisms can form in the compost. These materials also may attract flies and scavenger animals. Plus, they decompose very slowly. ► Any personal hygiene products should be avoided because they are tainted by human fluids and that can pose a health risk. ► While weeds are not harmful in compost piles, there is the risk that seeds can germinate and then infiltrate garden beds when the compost is used. The same can be said for tomato plants and some other hardy fruits and vegetables. Compost is a winner in the garden and around the landscape. Learning which ingredients can and can’t be added to compost piles is useful for any gardener.
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Milk jugs can be recycled and the Wall O’ Water l flatten out for easy storage. Whatever works for your situation. I would like to share a tip I gleaned from a zoom meeting this spring concerning lettuce and spinach. To prevent bitterness — choose varieties suited to the season — heat tolerant, cold tolerant, spring variety, fall variety, etc. Stress can cause bitterness so provide adequate fertility and water and mulch to keep the soil cool. Harvest in the morning, keep it cool and bring to the fridge right away or even cool it with water. Pick when plants are relatively young as younger leaves tend to be sweeter. Discard outer/older leaves. For continuous harvest, plant every 7-10 days for lettuce, spinach and radish. Reminder – it’s now too late to prune or cut on oak trees. You should now wait until later in the fall in order to prevent disease from entering the oaks. Fruit trees should be pruned in late winter as well. •
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Safety first with DIY electrical work Home improvement projects can help homeowners transform their homes. Such projects are costly, but many homeowners save money by doing some, if not all, of the work themselves. The Electrical Safety Foundation International, a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting electrical safety, recommends that homeowners leave electrical work to the professionals. Licensed electricians are well-trained, whereas homeowners may not be skilled enough to avoid accidents or injuries, which can prove fatal when working with electricity. Homeowners who take the do-it-yourself route with electrical work should consider these safety tips, courtesy of the ESFI, before beginning a home electrical project. 1. Learn your home electrical system. Home electrical systems may include power lines, electric meters, service panels, subpanels, wiring, and more. These systems are complex, and homeowners
who intend to do some DIY electrical work should familiarize themselves with their home electrical systems prior to beginning any work. The ESFI notes that knowledge of their home electrical systems can help homeowners more safely navigate them and make maintenance easier. 2. Honestly assess your skills. An honest assessment of skills is absolutely necessary prior to working on an electrical system. According to the National Safety Council, injuries relating to electrical incidents typically fall into one of four categories: electrical shock, electrocution, falls, and burns. Each of these injuries is significant. For example, electric shock, which occurs when electrical current passes over or through a person’s body, involves burns, abnormal heart rhythm and unconsciousness. Given the potential for serious injury, the ESFI urges homeowners to make an honest assessment of their skills before they begin working on their home’s electrical systems. Little or
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no experience working with electrical systems should be considered a significant hurdle to any DIY project. 3. Turn the power off. It’s essential that the power to the circuit that will be worked on be turned off prior to starting any work. This can be accomplished by switching off the circuit breaker in the main service panel. Similarly, when working on appliances or lamps, make sure the products are unplugged prior to working on them. 4. Do not touch plumbing or gas pipes when doing electrical work. Professionals know how to work around such pipes while minimizing their risk for electric shock or worse, and homeowners must familiarize themselves with the techniques profesHowever, those who insist on doing sionals rely on to stay safe if they intend such work themselves should do their to begin DIY electrical projects. homework and get to know their sysHomeowners are best served by leav- tems and safety protocols prior to ing electrical work to the professionals. beginning a project. •
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Your soil has a sweet tooth
BY DR. MIKE BREDESON Agroecologist Ecdysis Foundation
Local farmer plants soybeans into a living cover crop (cereal rye) which was seeded following corn harvest the previous fall. Cover crops prevent erosion, purify water, provide wildlife habitat and build beneficial bacteria and fungi communities which will help feed and protect the new soybean crop. Courtesy photo
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Do you have a sweet tooth? If so, thank a plant. Plants have the superhero-like ability of turning an invisible gas, carbon dioxide (CO2), that is in the air all around us, into something we can hold in our hands and even taste — sugar. All the sugar you have ever eaten came from plants. Why do plants make sweet sugars? For plants, animals and most organisms, sugars are the building blocks that make up our bodies and also the fuels which keep us energized. The process of capturing a gas out of thin air and making it into sugar takes a lot of work. Sugars are energetically costly and thus very valuable to any organism which possesses them. If sugars are so costly and difficult to make, then why would plants push the majority of their sugars (about 60%) out of their roots and into the soil? For plants to give away so much energy seems like an awful waste.
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The answer — bacteria and fungi. We often forget about the most numerous organisms living on our planet. These creatures are everywhere, but most of them live right below our feet. For every tablespoon of healthy soil there are more bacteria than there are humans on Earth, and enough strands of fungi to stretch more than a football field. Bacteria and fungi (microbes) could never survive without plants feeding them all that valuable sugar. But why do plants give so much of their hard-earned sugar to microbes? The reason — because microbes have powers that plants do not possess. Microbes extract nutrients from the soil that plants cannot. A plant giving sugar to soil microbes is simply the plant’s way of paying for something that it cannot attain on its own. These unattainable goods are nutrients that plants need to live, similar to humans needing vitamins to grow strong. Plants are capable of pulling some nutrients out of the soil, but they are far less efficient at the process than microbes. Microbes have the incredible
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ability of extracting essential nutrients from hard-to-reach places. They will even dissolve solid rock to find what they need. Plants grown without bacteria and fungal
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is where two different organisms are more successful when they cooperate than when they work separately. To help explain this let’s think about two construction companies. We will call them Y and Z. Company Y has a steady supply of wood boards but no nails to put them together. Company Z has plenty of nails but no wood. Neither company can build houses unless they share their resources. This is exactly how plants and microbes work together. Plants provide the wood boards (sugar), and microbes provide the nails (nutrients). They depend on each other. Why is all this important? When we, as farmers and gardeners, foster the right conditions for microbes and plants to live in harmony then plants require much less attention, pesticides, and fertilizers from us humans. We can learn much by observing forests and praipartners are small, weak and highly sus- ries growing into beautiful and producceptible to diseases and other pests. tive landscapes, not by any actions of peoThe relationship between soil microbes ple, but rather, the unsung superheroes and plants is called mutualism. Mutualism on Earth, microbes. •
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What to know before installing built-ins After purchasing a new home, buyers often want to put their own fingerprint on the property. Homeowners anticipate the day when their homes are transformed into spaces that reflect their style and not the preferences of previous owners. When deciding how to renovate interior spaces, homeowners will make some relatively temporary changes, but they also may consider some permanent adjustments. Built-ins fall into the category of permanent adjustments, and while realty professionals note that built-ins tend to provide a good return on investment, homeowners can learn more about builtins before deciding if they want to install them in their homes.
home. The term “built-ins” may immediately conjure up images of bookshelves, but built-ins also include benches and entertainment centers.
WHY INSTALL BUILT-INS?
Built-ins can be both utilitarian and aesthetically appealing. Built-ins are functional because they provide storage space that homeowners may otherwise find hard to create. Built-ins are embedded in walls that may otherwise be useful only to hang artwork. This can provide much-needed storage space in homes with limited square footage. Professionally installed built-ins also can transform rooms, making them appear more organized. Customized builtins also can give homes their own unique WHAT ARE BUILT-INS? character, though it’s important to note Realtor.com defines built-ins as any fea- that prospective buyers may or may not ture that is built into the interior of a appreciate that uniqueness.
ARE THERE DISADVANTAGES away from a property. However, Realtor. com notes that functional built-ins, like TO BUILT-INS? The permanence of built-ins may not appeal to some buyers. If buyers don’t like built-ins at all or are not fond of the look of customized built-ins, that may be enough to convince them to walk
built-in bench seats with storage capacity, appeal to modern buyers and their preference for as much storage space as possible.
BUILT-INS: Page 11
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Lawn damage, boulevard trees, and seeding lawns FIELDING QUESTIONS
BY DON KINZLER
Q: Can you help me figure out what’s causing damage to to my lawn? (See photo on page 12.) My neighbor thinks the culprits are voles. If so, what is the treatment? — Enrique G. A: Your neighbor is right; the winding trails in the lawn are classic vole damage. Voles are short-tailed brown or grayish field mice. They don’t run as fast as gray house mice, and they rarely, if ever, come indoors. Voles thrive under winter snow, where they feed on grass, making winding channels through the turf. The grass usually fills in and recovers by early summer. Rake the areas well, and sprinkle grass seed if damage is widespread. How can we prevent vole damage in
the future? In the fall, mow lawns shorter than the summer height. Trim edges and along fences where longer grass grows. Rodent baits can be placed in PVC pipes laid horizontally on the ground in areas of high vole traffic or damage. These bait stations can also be placed around the lawn’s perimeter during summer, where voles frequently hide. Rodent traps are another option, effectively baited with peanut butter or peanuts. Commercial vole repellents receive mixed reviews, working in some cases, not in others. Fertilizing the lawn in late autumn with granular fertilizer is being investigated as a vole deterrent, based on anecdotal evidence that voles avoid the caustic nature of the granules. Q: What are the best boulevard trees to plant? Three out of four of the trees I planted last year here in Fargo died. — Kay Z.
A: In any city, the first step is to contact the local forestry department, or other city administration, to check their recommendations or requirements. Many cities have a certain list of trees from which to choose, which ensures that only adapted trees are planted, and can help avoid overplanting the same species, which caused past problems. Such lists recommended for Upper Midwest boulevards frequently include the following, all of which are well-adapted to North Dakota and Minnesota: Ohio buckeye; Prairie Horizon alder; Dakota Pinnacle birch; hackberry; Northern Acclaim honeylocust; Kentucky coffee tree; Amur chokecherry; ironwood; bur oak; Prairie Stature oak; Japanese tree lilac and its cultivars; linden cultivars; Prairie Expedition elm; and black walnut.
FIELDING QUESTIONS: Page 12
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BUILT-INS From Page 10
Permanent built-ins also can be costly. The home remodeling resource Fixr.com notes that built-in entertainment center installations can cost between $8,000 and $9,500. Built-in seating and bookshelves are not as costly, but such projects still cost more than simply buying premade furniture. Some buyers also may see built-ins as limiting what they can do with a space. That can be a major disadvantage as more professionals work from home and seek multi-functional spaces in their homes. Built-ins can dramatically change the look of a room and provide some much-needed storage space. But it’s imperative that homeowners give ample thought to built-ins before deciding to install them in their homes. • Metro Services
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FIELDING QUESTIONS From Page 11
Q: I understand that most people plant grass in the fall of the year. What is the best way to plant lawn grass in the spring? — Alden L. A: Planting grass seed in the fall before Sept. 15 is highly effective because soil temperatures are warm from summer sunshine, and air temperatures are generally mild. Evaporation is less problematic, making it easier to keep the seedbed moist, and grass seed germinates rapidly, and establishes well before winter. Spring planting can be highly successful also. Start with a top-quality seed mix that contains at least 50% of Kentucky bluegrass varieties. Avoid bargain mixes with high percentages of grasses that don’t survive winter. Delay planting until soil temperatures warm to above 50 degrees. The first half of May is a good window for lawn seeding. If grass is sown too early while soil is cold, birds have an extended opportunity to gobble the seed.
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Follow the label directions for the amount of seed to apply. Instead of being planted deeply, grass seed is simply spread on the soil surface and rake in. When finished, grass seed should be visible. Water the soil thoroughly right after seeding, applying at least 1 inch of moisture. Then keep the soil surface darkmoist with frequent sprinklings until grass is visible, green and growing. Keeping the soil moist throughout the germination period is the key to success. If the soil surface dries out when the seed is sprouting, it can be killed. This might require watering in the morning and evening, especially on windy days. Applying a very light mulch of straw, dried grass or commercially available seed mulch can help keep the soil surface moist. •
If you have a gardening or lawn care question, email Don Kinzler, NDSU Extension-Cass County, at donald.kinzler@ndsu.edu. Questions with broad appeal may be published, so please include your name, city and state for appropriate advice.
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Delicious plums for Northern climates BY DON KINZLER
Name a fruit that grows on trees in backyards across the region. Chances are you said apple, which is the most common tree fruit in the Upper Midwest. While apples enjoy the limelight, plums are often overlooked, causing many to miss out on the juicy sweetness of these homegrown delights. If you’ve never eaten a tree-ripened plum, fresh from your own backyard, you’re missing a sweet treat. Winter-hardy Kinzler cultivars recommended for our region yield fruits with a sweetness and quality unmatched by store-bought plums. If you include a plum tree in your yard, you’ll be happy you did. Plum trees generally grow smaller than apple trees, fitting more readily into small-space landscapes with a height of 12 to 15 feet without pruning. Plums also reach a fruit-bearing age earlier than apples, with a plentiful fruit crop two to three years after planting, compared to five to seven years with apples.
TIPS FOR GROWING PLUMS
► Plant plum trees in full, all-day sunshine for best fruiting. They should get at least six hours of direct sunlight. ► Bare-root, dormant trees can be planted in early spring. Potted trees in full leaf should wait until danger of frost has likely passed before planting in midto-late May. ► Allow each plum tree a footprint space of 10 to 12 feet. Because they are relatively low-headed, they can be used effectively as privacy screening in yard corners, along property borders, or by decks and patios. ► Keep any suckers arising from the tree’s base pruned off at the point of origin. ► Little yearly pruning is needed besides thinning out small branches cluttering the tree’s interior. ► Fertilize with a well-balanced fertilizer recommended for fruit trees if the previous year’s growth was less than 12 inches, as visible by the round annual growth scar found on twigs. ► Bird netting is the most certain way to exclude these pests, applied before plums ripen. ► Apply tree wrap in late October and remove every April. Continue yearly as long as the bark is thin and smooth. ► Choose cultivars that are adapted to our region, and readily found at locally owned garden centers. National chain stores might offer non-hardy varieties better suited to warmer climates.
Tree-ripened homegrown plums are a sweet treat well-adapted to Northern landscapes. iStock / Special to The Forum
CHOOSE THE BEST PLUM CULTIVARS FOR NORTHERN GROWING Nearly all plums require cross-pollination from a different plum type for fruit production. They don’t need to be within the same yard. A neighbor’s plum of different type, or American “wild” plum in a nearby shelterbelt, can both be successful pollinators. The cultivar Toka is well-known as a great pollinator, so it will increase fruit set when included with other plum types. It’s a good quality plum in its own right, so it’s a favorite for coupling with another cultivar. Here are recommended plums for our region. All are winter-hardy in zones 3, except where noted for zone 4 planting. All are high-quality for fresh eating or processing.
► Underwood: Red skin with golden flesh. Ripens early (mid-August) and continues over a long season. ► Waneta: Very large fruit having yellow skin with red blush. Sweet and juicy yellow flesh. ► Pipestone: Very large, bright red fruit. Skin is tough, but it peels easily to reveal sweet, melting golden flesh. ► Pembina: Large, red-skinned oval fruit. Delicious yellow flesh is sweet and juicy. ► Alderman: Large, with burgundy-red skin and sweet flesh. Vigorous tree that flowers heavily; for zone 4. ► Superior: Large, dark red fruits with firm yellow flesh of outstanding, super-sweet quality; for zone 4. ► Black Ice: Large, dark blue fruits with sweet reddish-purple flesh. Naturally dwarf habit; for zone 4. ► LaCrescent: Small yellow fruit is sweet and aromatic on a vigorous tree; for zone 4. ► Toka: Small to medium fruit with dark red skin. Flavor is rich and spicy. An outstanding pollinator to include with any of the above types. ► Mount Royal: The only plum on the list that is self-fruitful, producing fruit even if it’s the only plum tree in the vicinity. It won’t act as a pollinator for other types, though. Hardiest of the blue, European-type plums, maturing in early September. Heavy producer of delicious, sweet fruit; for zone 4. • Don Kinzler, a lifelong gardener, is the horticulturist with North Dakota State University Extension for Cass County. Readers can reach him at donald.kinzler@ndsu.edu.
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