Western Ag Life Magazine - Spring 2020

FARMING: WEST TEXAS WINE, PREMIUM VITICULTURE IN THE HIGH PLAINS

BY ASHTYN CARR, PHOTOS BY LLANO ESTACADO

“I think we’re a little hidden gem and you know there’s over 800 wineries now in Texas and we’ve become a force to be reckoned with,” - Leslie Sukin

West Texas is notorious for its unmatched, unique climate. The clear skies are broken up by towering windmills. The dry air is sprinkled with red dirt. The flat fields are dotted with white cotton plants. Lubbock comfortably fits this mold. However, emerging from beneath the red dirt is a hidden gem that breaks West Texas out of mundane stereotype.

Winemaker JasonC.

©LLANO ESTACADO

Established in 1976, Llano Estacado was cultivated by Texas Tech professors Clinton McPherson and Bob Reed. What started as a research experiment blossomed into the largest premium winery in Texas. This successful West Texas treasure is now one of over 800 wineries in the state. The winery got its name from the land it sits on. The Llano Estacado, translated from Spanish to Staked Plains, is a region of flatlands reaching from eastern New Mexico to northwest Texas.

Because of the unique climate, grade production is different for Llano Estacado than wineries in wine country in California or Washington. Greg Bruni, Vice President Executive Winemaker at Llano, knew the challenges he would be facing when he made the move to Texas in 1993. Despite the difficulties Bruni, a former California head winemaker, saw the potential for high quality Texas wine.

“I kind of felt like I was part of a pioneering move towards premium Texas wine,” Bruni said.

Bruni remembers the first challenge he went through at the winery. During his transition to Llano, the area was going through a drought. The weather conditions were more extreme than those he was used to. On top of that, grape production in the High Plains was unlike the production he had experience with.

“One thing that kind of caught me off guard were the extreme conditions…,” Bruni said. “We knew the quality was there, but we just didn’t have the consistent production year over year.”

The grapes that go into making Llano Estacado wine aren’t grown at on location. Though their is a vineyard on property, there hasn’t been a harvest from those vines. But you’re still drinking West Texas wine! The winery ships in grapes from growers throughout the Panhandle. Contracting during the spring season, Llano’s Winemaker Jason Centanni and other Llano employees keep in contact with growers while the grapes are coming to fruition. In fact, they even pay visits to the vineyards until harvest.

“We actually go out there, boots on the ground, and walk around,” Centanni said. “You know, make suggestions or decisions to find the best possible way to ripen or mature those grapes based on the type of wine we want to make first.”

After harvesting, grapes go into the wine making process. Though Llano has a fairly traditional winemaking process, Centanni says the winery mixes in post modern techniques during the fermentation process or immediately after. The main post modern technique they use is called micro-oxygenation.

Centanni explained that this process is typically used on Llano’s red wines. Micro-oxygenation is the method of adding certain amounts of pure oxygen to wine in order to produce a mature wine at a young age. According to Centanni, if used incorrectly, micro-oxygenation can wreck your wine. Which is why many wineries don’t practice it.

“That’s what differentiates us from a lot of wineries in Texas,” Centanni said. “I would say most wineries, if not all of them besides us, do not use that process.”

To taste some of Llano’s wine, you can visit their tasting room, find a vendor near you, buy online (some states excluded), or join their wine club! Wine club has two options, mixed wine membership or red wine membership. With different packages available, customers can cater their wine club baskets to fit their tastes.

As one of the oldest wineries in Texas, Llano has proved themselves to be a premium producer. They were first awarded for their high quality wine at the 1981 State Fair of Texas. At the 1986 San Francisco Fair Exposition and Wine Competition, Llano simultaneously received their first double gold award and first international wine award. They haven’t stopped collecting awards since.

“I think we’re a little hidden gem and you know, there’s over 800 wineries now in Texas and we’ve become a force to be reckoned with,” Leslie Sukin, Tasting Room Manager, said.

Aside from producing top tier wines, the winery plays an active role in community involvement. From Saturday farmers market trips to sip and shops at boutiques, Llano connects with community members, recruits new customers, and establishes relationships with fellow business owners. The winery also hosts its own events to bring in locals, including Wine Down Wednesday. On a weekly basis, Llano hosts Wine Down Wednesday from 5 to 8 p.m. to get over those midweek blues with a glass of wine and good company.

One of the biggest events on Llano’s calendar is the Lubbock Chamber of Commerce’s Uncorked. The annual festival hosts wineries from across the state, celebrating Texas winemaking and grape growing. At Uncorked, ticket holders are able to sip on wine, listen to live music, and attend educational classes.

Llano Estacado is a leader among Texas vineyards, being the bestselling premium wineries in the state. It has grown a brand that holds its own in the viticultural world, as well as among the Lubbock community. Llano continues to produce 170,000 cases of wine annually, while tackling every day challenges.

“If you think you know what our brand is based on what you see throughout the rest of the state, come see Leslie in the tasting room,” Centanni said. “So if you want a real surprise and see what else Llano Estacado has and what we do, come visit us. Be ready to have your mind blown.”

For more information about Llano Estacado, please visit www.llanowine.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Ashtyn Carr grew up raising and exhibiting swine and cattle. Now a senior at Texas Tech University, she is majoring in agricultural communications with a minor in animal science. Ashtyn is a first generation Red Raider and West Texas resident. She loves writing about West Texas culture, hot spots, and events. When she isn’t studying, writing, or taking pictures, she’s spending time in the barn with her family.