Winter 2019/2020 by West of 105 magazine

9 S P A S T O V I S I T T H I S W I N T E R | 2 4 H O U R S I N S I LV E R T O N | W I N T E R C O C K TA I L S

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THE BEST OF COLORADO

Spotlight on

STEAMBOAT SPRINGS

WINTER 2019 / 2020

WEEKEND TRAVEL

WEEKENDER

THE WEST OF 105

INSPIRATION

DIRECT TO YOUR

ELCOME to the Winter 2019/20 issue of West of 105 magazine. This issue is a special one for us as it is also the first print issue of the magazine so you will be able to see it in the flesh, so to speak. We have signed up a range of great places to stock the magazine, from beautiful ranches and hotels to libraries and visitor centers across our part of the state. See where on page 10. Inside the winter issue, we visit Steamboat Springs, spend 24 hours in Silverton and take a road trip to indulge in a few hot springs. We have a round-up of the state’s ski resorts, we look at a few other winter activities if you’re not a skier or snowboarder, and we take a trip around the magnificent Rocky Mountain National Park. Elsewhere, we spoke to some Olympians, bring you a few brews you can expect to see around this winter, share our favorite winter cocktails (all made with Colorado liquors of course), and we visited the excellent Salt, Pollen in Paonia and spoke to chef and owner Marcus Parrott. We also have regular features such as an amazing Colorado Haven, fashion and gear guides, and nine of the best spas if you’re looking for a winter makeover. Finally, we’d like to take a minute to thank our advertisers and distribution partners. We’ve had some great feedback on the magazine so far, but we listened to readers when many of them said they would love to see it in print, and that wouldn’t have been possible without the support of those advertisers and distribution partners. The West of 105 team

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WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S INSIDE

RESORT LIVING WINTER IN COLORADO IS INEXTRICABLY LINKED TO SKI RESORTS, FROM THE GARGANTUAN AND WORLD FAMOUS TO THE TINY AND RELATIVELY UNKNOWN. WE HELP YOU CHOOSE WHICH ONE IS RIGHT FOR YOU.

24 HOURS IN SILVERTON

RESTAURANT PROFILE

68 Photos (top to bottom): Cooper, Silverton Chamber of Commerce, Period Communications, C Lazy U Ranch

THE EXTREME AND HELI SKIING CAPITAL OF NORTH AMERICA, LITTLE SILVERTON IS A HAVEN TUCKED AWAY IN THE GORGEOUS SAN JUAN MOUNTAINS. WE SPENT 24 HOURS THERE RECENTLY AND LOVED EVERY MINUTE OF IT.

CHEF MARCUS PARROTT EARNED HIS CULINARY STRIPES BY TRAIPSING AROUND THE COUNTRY. AFTER SEVERAL YEARS WORKING AT A COLORADO RANCH, HE DECIDED TO OPEN HIS OWN RESTAURANT. THE RESULT IS SALT, POLLEN IN PAONIA.

HAVEN: C LAZY U RANCH OUR HAVEN IN THIS ISSUE IS THE INCREDIBLE C LAZY U OUTSIDE GRANBY. THE BEAUTIFUL PROPERTY BLENDS LUXURY WITH THE FULL RANCH EXPERIENCE WHICH MEANS YOU CAN CURATE YOUR OWN GETAWAY. @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

GEAR ANATOMY

Corsair shell design delivers ease of entry and exit

Grilamid polyamide composite shell provides consistent flex at all temperatures

Micro-adjust buckles enable a custom fit Interchangeable heel and toe plates for longevity

DAHU

Most of us donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t consider how and when innovation happens. Ski boots, for example, have looked the same for as long as most of us can remember. This winter, however, you can expect to see a new kind of ski boot on the slopes. Dahu, which has its North American headquarters in Edwards, is a Swiss company that is trying to shake up the ski boot industry with a modular design that re-imagines the ski boot as a two-part system - namely a boot and a shell. The Grilamid plastic shell features a series of strategic cutouts that the company says alleviates typical pressure points while maintaining external rigidity.

The Italian-made inner cambium boot liner is the boot component and can be used as such without needing to change footwear or waddle around as you do with traditional ski boots. Made from Italian leather, the boot is warm thanks to Primaloft insulation and is made to fit the unique contours of your feet. The grooved trilock sole profile maximizes energy transfer between boot and shell, and the lugged rubber sole delivers traction in all conditions. The Corsair entry system has a gull-wing open and close design that allows you to first put on the liner and then step into the shell. You can, of course, leave the liner in the boot and step in just as you would with a conventional ski boot.

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TAKE

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D OW N LOA D YO U R F R E E DIGITAL VERSION AT WESTOF105.COM/MAGAZINE

wint er BUCKET LIST WINTER OFFERS THE CHANCE TO EXPERIENCE THINGS IN COLORADO THAT YOU SIMPLY CAN’T DO AT ANY OTHER TIME OF THE YEAR. WE’VE PICKED 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD THINK ABOUT TRYING THIS WINTER.

1. VISIT AN ICE CASTLE

4. SKI AMERICA’S OLDEST RESORT

Built using hundreds of thousands of icicles that are placed by hand, the castle is particularly stunning when lit up with LED lights. Page 78

Howelsen Hill Ski Area in Steamboat Springs has been operating since 1915. There are 17 Alpine and nine Nordic trails as well as the largest natural ski jumping complex in North America. Page 32

2. TRY SNOGA When is yoga even more serene? When you have to snowshoe to a secluded rustic cabin where a cozy fire awaits to greet you, that’s when. Page 11

3. SWEET AS DOUGH

Photos (clockwise from top): AJ Mellor; Dahu; 8 Period Communications

Have you ever had a free shot or a beer with your donut? Neither had we until we went to Sweet Coloradough in Glenwood Springs. Page 82

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5. VISIT STEAMBOAT The poster child of ski towns, The Boat has it all - great winter activities, good places to eat and drink, and an Olympic heritage. Page 30

6. TRY A NEW KIND OF SKI BOOT Swiss company Dahu (US office in Eagle) has reinvented the ski boot by separating the boot part from a more rigid frame. Page 6

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7. GET PAMPERED Treat yo’ self this season and indulge in a visit to a spa from our list of nine spas we love. Page 71

8. TAKE A DIP We took a little road trip from Glenwood Springs to Redstone and stopped at a few of the state’s numerous hot springs along the way. Page 41

9. VISIT RMNP Spectacular year round, Rocky Mountain National Park is glorious in winter. Page 26

10. WARM UP Winter means eggnog, schnapps and mulled wine, so we took some fantastic local products and turned them into some of our favorite winter tipples. Page 54

11. TRY DOG SLEDDING Snow Mountain Ranch has offered a dog-sledding program for years, but new this year is a full immersion experience for overnight guests. The experience offers the chance to actually get involved rather than being a bystander. Page 82

12. CHECK INTO A HAVEN Experience the life of a cowboy while staying in the lap of luxury. C Lazy U, just north of Granby, is a luxury dude ranch that also offers an authentic ranch experience. Page 68

14. DISCOVER SILVERTON

19. SAMPLE A SKISEASON STAPLE

Nestled in the San Juan Mountains, the former mining town is known for its extreme skiing, but it’s a great place in winter even if you don’t enjoy jumping from helicopters. Page 36

With the return of winter comes several dishes - including fondue - that aren’t always available year round. Page 60

15. SOOTHE YOUR SKIN Health and beauty products made from hemp are becoming more and more popular. We are currently loving one based out of Montrose. Page 70

20.TRY A NEW RESTAURANT Chef and owner Marcus Parrott opened Salt, Pollen in Paonia earlier this year. Page 62

16. WAKE UP AT THE WYMAN An overnight stay at The Wyman makes you think you’re smack dab in the middle of Manhattan, until you look out the window and see the stunning mountain views. Page 40

17. SCALE COLORADO’S TALLEST INDOOR CLIMBING WALL Inside the newly-opened Limelight Hotel Snowmass, the wall is a 54 feet and free for hotel guests.

18. INDULGE IN A NEW KIND OF A PASTY Pasties have long been a savory treat for Brits. There are a few places west of 105 to try them. Page 61

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13. ATTEND A BEER FESTIVAL Nothing is more Colorado than winter sports and craft beer. Thankfully, outdoor beer festivals continue throughout the season. Page 80

Photos (top to bottom): Period Communications; Wyman Hotel

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WHERE TO FIND US YOU CAN FIND COPIES OF WEST OF 105 AT T H E F O L L O W I N G F I N E L O C A T I O N S

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NEW & NOTEWORTHY

DRINK MONARCH THROWBACK

Poncha Springs-based Elevation Beer Company has brewed a specialty release of Monarch Throwback to help Monarch Mountain celebrate its 80th birthday. A red ale, Monarch Throwback is brewed with crystal and Munich malts which give the brew a strong malt character that is balanced out by magnum hops. At 5 percent, it isn’t too strong and so is perfect for après. Monarch Throwback will be available on draft and in 12-ounce cans across Colorado.

SNOGA

This winter, Vista Verde Dude & Guest Ranch, just north of Steamboat Springs, is offering visitors the chance to try snoga. Guests will have the chance to combine a gentle snowshoe hike to the rustic homestead cabin where a blazing fire and yoga mats await. A snoga class is the perfect way to limber up for or stretch out after a day skiing or horseback riding.

STAY GRAVITY HAUS

Just in time for ski season, Gravity Haus is now a ski-in/ ski-out property at the base of Peak 9 in Breckenridge. The 60-room property is beautiful and has all of the amenities that discerning travelers demand these days. It also has a few things that most other places don’t have, including a Japanese-inspired onsen. Gravity Haus also offers memberships with benefits such as late checkouts as standard and season-long equipment storage.

< Photos (top to bottom): Elevation Beer Company, Vista Verde Ranch, Gravity Haus, Crested Butte Mountain Resort

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RIDE

TEOCALLI LIFT

This season, skiers in Crested Butte will be able to get up the mountain faster than ever before thanks to a lift upgrade. The new Teocalli Lift, which is Vail Resorts’ first on-mountain improvement at Crested Butte Mountain Resort, will increase uphill capacity by more than 50 percent. The top terminal will also be moved to be closer to the top of the existing Red Lady Express Lift.

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CHEER A Holiday Weekend Getaway Seven Rivers Champagne Toast Cheering My Slot Jackpot Going Home A Winner

Ignacio, CO YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE A STAR 888.842.4180 SKY! IN OUR SkyUteCasino.com WESTOF105.COM

OUTDOORS MONARCH MOUNTAIN LAUNCHES NEW FAMILY-FRIENDLY OFFERINGS THIS WINTER

RESORT LIVING

SNOWMOBILE COWBOYS

WINTER IN ROCKY

Not sure which ski resort to visit this winter? We’ve chosen a few and put them into different categories depending on what you’re looking for.

Earning your turns is great, but there are times when you want to put the pedal to the metal. Snowmobiles offer the chance to cruise through trees and around meadows.

There is arguably no better winter playground than Rocky Mountain National Park. With something for everyone, Rocky has fewer people in winter and incredible vistas.

Photo: Bjorn Bauer / Monarch Mountain

WINTER GEAR Bolle | Backline Visor Helmet $400 The new two-in-one helmet / visor saves a little bit of packing space while the wide field of view makes for a better overall experience. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s especially good for those who wear prescription glasses. Smartwool | Intraknit 200 Crew Base Layer $120 Using body-mapped ventilation, this new base layer keeps you dry and warm without overheating. Fewer seams allow for a better fit and reduce bulk.

Kora | Shola 230 Zip $160 Made of yak wool sourced from the Kegawa Herders Cooperative - a group of more than 80 Himalayan nomads - Kora base layers are soft and itch-free while offering breathability and warmth.

MSR | Revo Ascent Snowshoes with Paragon Bindings $259.95

Mountain Hardwear | Boundary Ridge Gore-Tex 3L Bib $400

These snowshoes are all about the new binding. The Paragon Binding is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first single-strap mesh snowshoe binding. The one-piece mesh top strap can accommodate a wide range of boot styles and sizes, but it is the speed with which they can be put on and taken off that will please many. The mesh also offers a secure fit without pressure points.

Made from recycled GORE-TEX, the Boundary Ridge bib is both waterproof and breathable. Practical elements we love include the zipped chest pocket and the two front mesh pockets as well as the Velcro waist adjustment tabs. The RECCO avalanche rescue reflector could prove useful, too. 14

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Gogglesoc $14.95 A quick and affordable answer to preventing lenses from getting scratched during an aprĂ¨s session, we love that Gogglesocs are made from 88 percent recycled rPET (to put that into perspective, just one 12-oz. water bottle can produce enough fabric to make three lens covers).

Skida | Alpine Neckwarmer $26.00 Made in Vermont, the outer fabric of this neck warmer wicks away moisture while the ultra soft micro-fleece keeps the neck cozy.

Helly Hansen | Whitewall Lifaloft Jacket $400 With 80g of insulation, this long-length ski jacket is water and windproof while being breathable. Underarm ventilation helps regulate body temperature, while other features include a RECCO Advanced Rescue System and an insulated pocket designed to keep your phone battery charged longer.

Gobi | Tread Heated Socks $179 Feet stay nice and toasty when shredding the slopes or trekking the trails with these heated socks that offer three different heat settings, the highest of which will keep you warm for about four hours.

Obermeyer | Jinks ITB Pant $149 If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for sleek and stylish ski pants with functionality built in, look no further. The Jinks are waterproof, breathable and have stirrups. When paired with a base layer, they offer great coverage and mobility.

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T R G O N S I E V R LI D E R ON H S S A O E T S S S E I C H A T L ES P 12 LOP S E H T

Photos (this page): Jeremy Swanson / Aspen Snowmass; (opposite page top to bottom): Matt 16 Power, Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Silverton Mountain /Ab Sven WESTOF105.COM

FOR ADVANCED TERRAIN

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1. ASPEN HIGHLANDS Aspen Snowmass may be one of the most famous ski resorts in the county and one that is synonymous with luxury, but this four-mountain destination has some seriously tough runs. Of the four, Aspen Highlands comes in at second in terms of size with just over 1,000 acres of skiable terrain and 84 miles of trails, but it is the fact that 65 percent of those 84 miles are rated as expert - aka double black diamond - while the other mountains - Snowmass, Aspen Mountain and Buttermilk come in at 30, 26 and five percent respectively for expert runs. Highland Bowl offers 2,500-vertical-foot descents down pitches as steep as 45 degrees if you’re looking for a real test.

2. CRESTED BUTTE The big news this season at Crested Butte Mountain Resort is a new lift courtesy of the resort’s acquisition by Vail Resorts. Whether you like the idea or not, there is no doubt that more investment will follow the new Teocalli Lift. However, for the adventurous (and brave) skiers and snowboarders, it is an old feature that will appeal. Rambo, the steepest run in the entire country and according to many the scariest, too, is just 300 yards long. But while it might not sound that intimidating, it offers no respite thanks to it maintaining a pitch of 55 degrees from top to bottom.

3. SILVERTON MOUNTAIN The highest and steepest ski area in North America, Silverton Mountain has 1,819 acres and offers descents in every direction including bowls, chutes and cliffs. From the top of the single lift, a short hike rewards skiers with 3,000 feet in vertical drop in a single run. Then there is heli skiing and snowboarding that opens up another 30,000 acres. Silverton Mountain is also the only operator in the continental United States that offers single drops. If you’re in town on Feb. 8, consider watching (or signing up for) Silverton Whiteout, an annual 10-hour fat tire bike race. Read more about Silverton on page 38.

FOR FAMILIES

4. MONARCH MOUNTAIN One of the smaller resorts in Colorado with 800 acres, six lifts and 66 trails, Monarch celebrates its 80th anniversary this season with more tree skiing and a new kid-friendly, interpretive ski run. Independently owned, Monarch is rarely crowded and powder can last for days instead of hours. Sitting atop the Continental Divide, Monarch also has a guided snowcat operation that offers access to an additional 1,635 acres of steep, technical terrain. Every Friday in December, January and February visitors can ski with a naturalist who will talk about the ecology of the area.

5. VAIL SKI RESORT With 5,317 acres of skiable terrain, Vail is one of the best-known ski resorts in the world and the largest ski area in Colorado, and as such has lots of runs for all skill levels. This year, Vail has unveiled the first phase of an ambitious snow-making expansion that will create more reliable early- and late-season conditions with higher-quality snow. The Colorado Ski & Snowboard Museum, which was renovated just last year, is worth checking out, too. It has six exhibit bays, a theater and three state-of-theart interactive touch screen exhibits which should keep kids occupied for half an hour. Free for all, the museum is located in the Vail Village parking structure.

6. BEAVER CREEK Known as the stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s luxury family ski resort, Beaver Creek has plenty of terrain for learners and some kid-friendly amenities like free cookies every afternoon. Totaling 1,832 acres with 23 lifts and 150 trails, Beaver Creek debuted Haymeadow Park, a second dedicated learning area, last winter (and Red Buffalo Park the year before). This season, the resort will expand its snow-making system at Red Buffalo Park and unveil a newly renovated Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ski School and a remodeled Village. Beaver Creek is also on the Epic Pass.

Photos (top to bottom): Monarch Mountain, Jack Affleck, Jon Resnick

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FOR BEGINNERS

7. COPPER MOUNTAIN Just off I-70, Copper is great for beginners thanks to the way the terrain is naturally divided with the right side of the resort being almost entirely green runs meaning you won’t have expert skiers whizzing by you as you slide slowly down the mountain. Copper also has high alpine terrain options for beginners including green runs Wheeler Creek and Union Park. Beginners can also take Rendezvous and unload in the saddle between Copper Mountain and the Union Peak lift, which offers one of the best views at Copper. There’s even a deck there where you can hang out. There is also the “learn to ski” zone between the East Village and Center Village. For the more advanced, Copper’s new Three Bears lift will unlock an additional 273 acres of expert terrain previously serviced by the Tucker Mountain snow cat and hiking.

8. PURGATORY RESORT Just over half an hour from Durango, this season Purgatory will offer free ski and snowboard lessons to all first-time snowboarders and skiers of all ages. With the purchase of a full-day, full-price lift ticket, beginners can join a four-hour group lesson. Once you’ve mastered your pizza and French fries, you can explore Purg’s 101 trails across 1,605 acres that are accessed by a dozen lifts. Purgatory is a reliable bet for skiing and boarding thanks to an average of 260 inches of snow a year. For something away from the slopes, there is the Inferno Mountain Coaster. Kids under 10 get a free season pass.

9. ECHO MOUNTAIN Just west of Evergreen and less than an hour from Denver, Echo Mountain has a different take on teaching people to ski and snowboard. Echo Mountain Ambassadors are basically a team of skiing and snowboarding coaches that roam the beginner area (which doubled in size last year from the previous year) offering pointers, tips, and suggestions. Of course, Echo Mountain is also good for those who already know how to ski and snowboard. With 60 acres of terrain, one lift and a handful of trails, along with Night Skiing until 9 pm Wednesday through Saturday, Echo isn’t the largest resort - far from it - but it has faithfully served (primarily) the Denver area on and off since 1960. There is also a tubing hill that opened last year. 20

Photos (top to bottom): Curtis Devore, Scott DW Smith, Echo Mountain

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FOR SOLITUDE SEEKERS

10. COOPER A 15-minute drive from Leadville, Cooper is a great spot to avoid long lift lines. The mountain has a variety of terrain that will suit just about everybody, including some great learning and beginner terrain, but it is the lift lines - or lack thereof - that makes Cooper a great place for those who want to get as many runs in as possible. With 60 trails served by five lifts and spanning 470 acres, Cooper also offers snowcat skiing tours on Chicago Ridge that open up 2,600 acres of wideopen powder bowls and glades. There is also a ski and ride school. Cooper’s origins go back to the legendary soldiers of the 10th Mountain Division who cut the first trails on Cooper Hill for training exercises.

11. SUNLIGHT MOUNTAIN RESORT Much like Powderhorn, Sunlight doesn’t have the name recognition of some of the state’s larger resorts, but what it lacks in notoriety it also lacks in queues which in turn means the powder lasts for days rather than hours. This season, Sunlight will unveil a $4 million expansion that will expand tree skiing, add five new hike back runs and an additional 500 vertical feet of skiing in the expert-only area. The expansion will take Sunlight to just under 800 acres, four lifts and 72 trails. The SnowShoe Shuffle, a five-mile snowshoe race that benefits Colorado Animal Rescue, takes place in February.

12. POWDERHORN MOUNTAIN RESORT With 1,600 acres, four lifts and 50 trails, Powderhorn has been quietly getting on with offering great and affordable skiing without the lines you can experience at other resorts for over 50 years. At the heart of Grand Mesa, Powderhorn also lays claim to some of the best tree skiing in the Rocky Mountains. Just 45 minutes from Grand Junction, this ski season Powderhorn is offering what it is calling Mission: Four’dable quad packs - four fully transferable lift tickets for the season with no restrictions or blackout dates. Powderhorn has an annual Torchlight Parade and Fireworks Show on New Year’s Eve and at the end of the season it holds the annual Pond Skim.

Photos (top to bottom): Cooper; Powder Street Photography; Powderhorn Mountain Resort

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SNOWMOBILE COWBOYS

Photos (this page): GCCTB; (opposite page top to bottom): Paragon Snowmobile Adventures; Rio Grande National Forest / Kent Miller

There is something rewarding and satisfying about athletic achievement, but there are also times when you get the need for speed and want to go full throttle. In winter, arguably the most fun you can have on the snow is by tearing around (safely of course) on a snowmobile. Snowmobiling has been around for a surprisingly long time with patents being awarded for forerunners of the snowmobile as far back as 1911. Initially invented for cross-country travel in winter, these days snowmobiles are used as much for fun as they are for transportation. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never been on a snowmobile and want to give it a go, or know and love them, here are a few good places west of 105 to try you hand.

Around Rio Blanco County Up in the northwest area of the state, there are some great trails that are going to be relatively less crowded. Perfect for beginners, the BufordNewcastle Trail has mile upon mile of easy going groomed terrain with 24

beautiful overlooks of the South Fork Valley and the Flat Tops Wilderness. Head to Meadow Lake for amazing views. For more experienced riders, Yellow-Jacket Pass takes riders off groomed terrain but still stays pretty mellow with trees and meadows. Riders will be able to see Sleepy Cat Peak and look into the Yampa Valley on this trail. Finally, for experienced riders, Dead Horse Loop on Ripple Creek Pass is a challenge with elevation changes, unmaintained trails and advanced backcountry terrain. Rio Blanco County actually has a free guide to trails throughout the county.

Around Rio Grande County Sitting at the entrance to Rio Grande National Forest, South Fork is a great jumping off point for snowmobiling adventures in the area. Good for beginners is the easy Park Creek Road trail. To get to the groomed 23-mile trail, head west from South Fork on Hwy 160, go eight miles up Wolf Creek Pass and turn off to the left for Park Creek Road. Connecting to Park Creek

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Road is Pass Creek Road. At just 12 miles, this trail is not for first timers as it is considered a moderate trail with the possibility of a few more difficult sections. Finally for something a little more challenging there is Treasure Mountain Trail. At around 10 miles, this trail is known for its extremely deep powder.

Around Grand County On the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park in Grand County there are a huge number of trails and areas where snowmobilers can find anything and everything. Grand Lake has an entire trail system of its own that is maintained by Grand Lake Trail Groomers. The 130-mile system can be accessed from Grand Lake and all are set up for beginners. The Little Gravel Mountain and Kauffman Creek trails in the area are popular. In the western part of the county, between Kremmling and Steamboat Springs, is Rabbit Ears Pass in Medicine Bowâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Routt National Forests.

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There are some seriously good trails, both groomed and ungroomed, that start from the three parking areas on Rabbit Ears Pass. The loop to Grizzly Creek and back to Rabbit Ears East is the longest groomed loop and offers both off-trail riding as well as tree riding. The Hahns Peak/Bears Ears Ranger District of the US Forest Service manages the area and grooming is done by Routt Powder Riders. Both have maps of the area.

Around Delta County Coming in at an impressive 123 miles, the Sunlight to Powderhorn Trail (known as the SP Trail) is said to be the longest snowmobile trail in the lower 48. Starting near the Sunlight Ski Area near Glenwood Springs in White River National Forest, it ends on the west end of the Grand Mesa south of the Powderhorn Ski Area in Grand Mesa National Forest. With numerous access points, the marked trail contains both groomed and ungroomed sections. Part of the SP Trail, The Lands End Loop Trail starts about 1.5 miles west of the Mesa Top Trailhead. The 25-mile loop traverses open spaces with occasional patches of spruce and fir trees and runs along the north rim of the Grand Mesa. Further west, there are 30 miles of groomed trails maintained by the Westend Sledders snowmobile club. These trails can be accessed from the East Naturita Winter Trailhead just outside Norwood. The best resource for snowmobiling in the state is the Colorado Snowmobile Association (CSA) as it has links and info to almost three dozen clubs around the state. Visit snowmobilecolo. com for more info. During the winter months, trail conditions across the state are constantly updated on the CSA website and avalanche conditions are best checked at the Colorado Avalanche Information Center’s website.

Snowmobiling Safety •

Before traveling always call to check snow conditions and avalanche information.

•

Be sure you have the required permits or passes. Snowmobiles that are operated on public lands in Colorado must be registered with Colorado Parks & Wildlife.

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•

Take adequate supplies for longer trips and be sure to let someone know where you will be and when you're expected back.

•

Be aware of where you can and cannot go - some trails are designated for cross-country skiers only and are typically marked in blue.

Winter in Rocky Rocky, as Rocky Mountain National Park is known to rangers and locals, is as spectacular and dramatic as it sounds like it should be. One of the most visited parks in the country, winter is a great time to visit thanks to the combination of lower visitor numbers (especially on weekdays) and spectacular winter scenery.

that will see you explore the majestic park under the glow of a full moon. For those that really want to get a handle on the inner

group’s needs. Entrance to the park is included in the tour and hot beverages are complimentary.

Family Time Rocky is a great place for families thanks, in part, to the ranger-led programs that offer the chance to explore the winter world of Rocky Mountain National Park with an expert guide. Every week on Saturday and Sunday at 10 am throughout winter there is a free talk at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. Wild in Winter will educate you as to how winter affects your visit and how animals adapt to the conditions. Then there are the once-a-month (Dec. 11, Jan. 10 and Feb. 9) Walk in the Moonlight hikes. Reservations are required for this free two-hour walk 26

Photos: NPS photo by John Marino

workings of the park’s ecosystem or just can’t stand the cold, the nonprofit Rocky Mountain Conservancy operates Wintertime Wonders: On-demand Bus Tour. Get comfortable on a warm bus and listen as a naturalist explains various facets of the park. The tour also includes short walks which can be tailored to the

Activities Snowshoeing and hiking: Depending on when and where you go, it is possible snowshoes may or may not be required for a jaunt around the park. When the snow really does start flying, however, snowshoes mean you can still explore and enjoy a snow-covered park.

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Rentals are available in Estes Park and at The Warming House on Hwy 36 (Moraine Ave.) on the way to the Beaver Meadows entrance. If you’re staying at a hotel nearby, be sure to ask them if they have snowshoes you can borrow. For a gentle winter hike, Bear Lake Loop is just 0.6 miles with an elevation gain of 20 feet making it perfect for families with younger children. The leisurely walk around the high-mountain lake offers amazing views of the surrounding peaks. Short it might be, but it’s one of Rocky’s most famous trails thanks to a combination of accessibility and sheer beauty. For something significantly more challenging, opt for the three-mile hike to the summit of Deer Mountain. Over on the north side of the park, this hike will see you gain over 1,000 feet as you hike up to 10,013 feet, making this a challenging three miles. You will be well compensated, however, with incredible views of the Continental Divide. Snowshoes or skis are a good idea for the

WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS summit which could have up to five feet of snow even if the trail up doesn’t have much. Gem Lake is also a popular spot. At 1.6 miles, the trail isn’t particularly long, but you do get to see the 1.8 billion-year-old granite highrise walls and views of the Continental Divide. If you’re new to snowshoeing, join a park ranger for a (mostly) flat snowshoe ecology hike to find out how Rocky changes in the winter. The hikes last two hours and happen every Friday at 1.30 pm (from Dec. 27) on the west side of the park. Be sure to bring your own snowshoes and poles. Rocky is also a great spot for both backcountry and cross-country skiing. In general, terrain and deeper snows on the west side of the park make for better cross-country skiing, but you are welcome to strap on your skis throughout the park. When it comes to backcountry skiing, Rocky Mountain National Park offers up some really great terrain, including glades, bowls, steep couloirs and lofty summits. Colorado Mountain School, the largest mountain guide company in the state, offers the RMNP Classic Ski Tour in Rocky. The eight-hour tour guides skiers and splitboarders through the park to enjoy the beautiful scenery that Rocky is famous for. They also offer an introduction to backcountry skiing for those with no experience. Hidden Valley, a former commercial ski resort inside the park, is the one place in Rocky where sledding is allowed. There are no tows and you must bring your own plastic sled, saucer or tube (no sleds with metal runners). There is a restroom at the bottom of the hill and on weekends when there's an attendant, a warming room is also available.

Photos: NPS photo by Jim Flanagan; NPS photo by Jon Olsen

PREVENTATIVE SEARCH AND RESCUE Rocky is a winter playground, but it is also a wild place, both in terms of the animals and the weather conditions, and as such precautions should be taken to ensure you have a fun time. Layer Up: The weather can change rapidly in Rocky, especially at higher elevations. Be sure to take the appropriate gear and wear the right clothing.

Sun Drenched: The sun can be brutal at higher elevations, so make sure you bring sunglasses, use sunscreen and carry plenty of water. Don’t Get Lost: Know where you’re going and stick to marked trails. Unconditional: Avalanche risk, snow levels, and trail conditions are always changing in Rocky, so be sure to check the current avalanche forecast and view trail conditions prior to visiting.

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Then there is winter mountaineering, ice climbing and you can even practice your avalanche beacon rescue skills in the park's Avalanche Beacon Training Park. Rocky also allows snowmobiling on a twomile stretch of the North Supply Access Trail in the southwest corner of the park. This trail connects the town of Grand Lake to a system of Arapaho National Forest trails adjacent to the Park.

Wildlife Watching While winter activities are available all over the state, Rocky is a living tribute to nature and as such offers the chance to see the plethora of wildlife that make the park its home. Winter is an especially good time to look for elk, mule deer, moose, and other large mammals. Look for moose along the Colorado River on the park's west side. Elk and mule deer are most active at dusk and dawn, and are usually seen in meadow areas, while bighorn sheep can often be found along the Highway 34/Fall River corridor on the park's east side. You might also see coyotes, Steller's jays, gray jays and Clark's nutcrackers.

Photos (left): NPS photo by Bonnie Beach; (right): Ann Schonlau

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PAGE 44 LEADVILLE: TOP OF THE WORLD PAGE 46 YEAR-ROUND FUN IN GRAND JUNCTION

SPOTLIGHT ON STEAMBOAT SPRINGS

24 HOURS: SILVERTON

HOT SPRINGS ROAD TRIP

The Boat, as Steamboat is known locally, is a picture perfect winter ski town. In our destination spotlight we bring you the best of The Boat.

Silverton is home to some of the most extreme skiing in the country, but whether you’re a skier or not, you’ll still need to know where to stay, and what to eat and drink.

What’s better than a road trip? A road trip that involves several hot springs, including a free road-side hot spring, that’s what.

Photo: 30 Steamboat Springs Chamber

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Destination

Steamboat Springs The Boat, as it is known locally, is the town you think of when you think of Colorado. It has all the components of a classic ski town and brings in visitors from around the country and the world to enjoy its trademarked Champagne Powder. Said to have been named for the way a particular spring babbled like a puffing river steamer, Steamboat Springs sits on the western slope of the Continental Divide and on the edge of Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests. With two ski areas, a full roster of annual events, some seriously good drinking and dining options and more than a dash of sporting prowess, the Boat is pretty much the poster child of Colorado mountain towns.

Olympic Heritage Presumably it is the enviable combination of the natural environment and the quality of life, but whatever it is Steamboat seems to be a magnet for winter winners having sent athletes to every Winter Olympics (with the exception of 1928 and 1936). To date, Steamboat has produced, either by birth or by residence, 98 Olympians that have represented a dozen countries and have brought 19 medals home.

A River Runs Through It There are, believe it or not, towns that have rivers running through or near their downtowns that havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been developed. Steamboat isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t one of those towns. The Yampa River, which is routinely described as a vital element of the community, draws people from around the region and from across the state to fish, kayak and tube, among other things, year round. In winter, with the banks covered in snow, the river is a beautiful sight. Ice fishing and fly fishing in winter are both available, the former at Stagecoach State Park, which is a 30-minute drive away and also offers other winter activities, and the latter on the Yampa tailwaters thanks to consistent water temperatures.

nonprofit, Old Town has eight different pools that range from 80 degrees in the lap pool to 103 degrees, the main hot pool sometimes holds aquatics fitness classes. There is also a waterfall hot pool, a smaller 2,000-gallon hot tub pool that has jets to help soothe muscles, and the water slide pool which has two 230-foot water slides which are open every day during winter (call to check exact dates if you really want to use the slides). All of the water comes from the Heart Spring, which is also the name of the only adults only pool, and have been used for at least a century, initially by the Ute Indians and later by homesteaders. In addition to the pools, Old Town is also a well-equipped fitness facility with an indoor climbing wall full and a range of fitness classes, a gym and massage services. A great facility for families, Old Town has private cabanas if you want to make a day of it. Boasting over half the population of the town as members, Old Town is also the perfect way to defrost after a day at nearby Howelsen Hill ski area.

Ski Town USA

Photos (this page): David Epperson

Downtown Steamboat’s downtown is postcard perfect. With the imposing Mount Werner looming large in the distance, it is a good size, a sort of Goldilocks town that is neither too big nor too small. Walkable depending on where you’re staying, there is a free bus that runs yearround throughout the city and between downtown and the ski resort mountain village. At Howelsen Place at Seventh Street and Lincoln Avenue there is a life-size statue of Karl Frithjof Hovelsen. Easy enough to pass by without really noticing, it represents an important milestone in the development of Steamboat as a ski town. Norwegian Hovelsen, today rendered

Howelsen, built a ski jump in 1914 to introduce the locals to ski jumping. The site, which still has 30-, 50-, 70- and 90-meter jumps, is still used by Olympic hopefuls to this day. A pioneer of skiing in America, Howelsen also organized the first Winter Carnival in town. This winter, the carnival celebrates its 107th year and takes place between Feb. 5 - 9 and includes events that bring together Steamboat’s western heritage and winter sports tradition, with skijoring being the perfect example. Also expect to see people on shovels being pulled down main street behind horses and skiers jumping through burning hoops. The excellent Old Town Hot Springs is right downtown at Third Street and Lincoln Avenue. A family-friendly

Howelsen Hill is North America’s oldest operating ski area having been in operation since 1915. Owned and operated by the City of Steamboat Springs, it has the largest and most complete natural ski jumping complex in North America. With just 17 Alpine and nine Nordic trails and four lifts, it is a minnow compared to other fully-fledged resorts, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in other ways, value among them with adult lift tickets being $30 and youth tickets (for those between 6 and 18) costing $20. Season passes are available as Alpine, Nordic or combined with the combined pass costing $355 for adults and $190 for youth. There are discounts for senior citizens. Perhaps the best value is found on Sundays when skiing is completely free. The hill is, however, closed on Mondays. Steamboat is also home to Steamboat Resort and the main reason a lot of people visit Steamboat Springs every winter. A world-class resort, Steamboat has 169 trails across 2,965 skiable acres with 18 lifts. Known for its trademarked Champagne snow, a phrase that is said to have been coined back in the 1950s by local rancher Joe McElroy who said that the snow tickled his nose like Champagne, it is said to be very light and dry and is considered to be the best snow for skiing (Steamboat’s snow averages six percent water content which is around half of what is typical). And if you want Champagne snow there

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Around the Region Of course, you don’t have to, and definitely shouldn’t just hang around downtown. Steamboat is pretty isolated, relatively speaking, which means there is a wealth of outdoor activities in the area. Fish Creek Falls is a very popular trail in the area. A four-mile drive from Steamboat, Fish Creek Falls offers a wheelchair-accessible overlook for the falls (0.25 miles one way) as well as a trail if you want to go to the base of them, although snowshoes or at least microspikes of some sort are all but essential. For something perhaps a little easier, the Yampa River Core Trail is a 7.5-mile paved multi-use trail that runs through the heart of Steamboat along the river. Photos (top and bottom left): Period Communications; (right top, middle and bottom): Rex’s Family of Restaurants)

is only one place to find it, literally, because Steamboat resort has literally trademarked the term and so nobody else can claim to have it (although they do). The town offers so much more than just skiing and snowboarding, of course, with plenty of options for those who want to Nordic ski, snowshoe, snowmobile and fat tire bike. There is also snow tubing at Saddleback Ranch and night skiing at the resort. Nordic skiers might want to head to the rodeo grounds at Howelsen Hill as they can offer a challenge for intermediate skiers and those that are a bit more advanced - this is where you might find the Olympians, and future Olympians, training. In fact, there are several Nordic centers including Haymaker, Steamboat Ski Touring Center and Catamount Nordic centers. For a more remote experience, head up to Rabbit Ears Pass which is also great for snowshoeing. Howelsen Hill, Haymaker and Catamount also have days when you can fat tire bike on the trails.

See and do

When it comes to food, Steamboat is one of the few places to be host to a Beau Jo’s, a pizza place that serves what many call mountain-style pizza. The dough is made with honey (locally sourced, naturally) and has a braided crust that allows for more toppings to be piled on. There are also salads and calzones on the menu. They also offer a pizza lunch buffet. Elsewhere, there is also Rex’s Grill and Bar that offers breakfast, lunch and dinner; the Laundry which offers cocktails with mostly small plates; Salt & Lime which offers an elevated Mexican experience; and Aurum which offers seasonal American fare with dishes such as curried cauliflower and lamb shanks, although be sure to check the menu. Serious foodies might want to try a food tour. Steamboat Springs Food Tours offers a few options throughout winter.

A day on the slopes will leave even the hardiest among us thinking we are on the verge of frostbite. The best way to defrost is to emulate Japan’s famous snow monkeys and submerge yourself in a hot spring as the snow falls around you. A 20-minute drive north to downtown is Strawberry Park Hot Springs. Sitting alongside Hot Springs Creek just outside Steamboat and surrounded by the pristine beauty of Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests, Strawberry Park is a beautiful facility with four pools and several fantastic accommodation options including a renovated train caboose. The 104-degree F mineral water is soothing enough, but Strawberry Park also offers massage treatments in private huts and watsu therapy in a private pool. Being surrounded by nature, a four-wheel drive vehicle with snow chains or snow tires is required to get to the springs between Nov. 1 and May 1.

Eat and drink There is a lot of eating and drinking to be done in Steamboat, both pre- and post-activity. With four breweries, a distillery and a really good selection of restaurants, you can visit a different place for every meal. All four breweries - Mountain Tap, Storm Peak, Butcherknife, and Mahogany Ridge - all offer their own unique takes on beer. For something a little stronger that will fortify you in the depths of winter head to Steamboat Whiskey Co on 11th Street. @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

Photos (top left): Mariposa Lodge; (top right and bottom): Period Communications

Stay There is a wide range of options from the huge ski resort condos to private rentals and everything in between. Two in-town options are the Rabbit Ears Motel and the fantastic Mariposa Lodge. The former is on the south end of Lincoln Avenue (Steamboat’s main thoroughfare) and has rooms that are basic but comfortable, while Mariposa Lodge is in a residential part of Steamboat a short walk from downtown. Made with local beetle kill pine, Mariposa feels very homey.

Further afield at the aforementioned Strawberry Park Hot Springs there are accommodation options including a covered wagon.

Events In addition to the aforementioned Winter Carnival, WinterWonderGrass will return this winter in late February with another awesome lineup and there is also the Strings Music Festival that holds events throughout the winter at the String Music Pavilion.

Steamboat Born and Bred In addition to the town’s Olympic prowess, Steamboat’s outdoor heritage has led to several outdoor brands being born in the town including Hala, Big Agnes, Honey Stinger and Smartwool.

Getting In Steamboat is very accessible. A threehour drive from Denver and about 90 minutes from I-70 at Wolcott, winter transforms Steamboat into a hub for tourists. Winter also brings in lots of people from further afield. The winter 2019/20 season will see nonstop flights into Steamboat’s Hayden Airport from 14 major airports, including cities as far away as Boston and Ft. Lauderdale on Alaska, American, Delta, JetBlue and United Airlines.

Get on Up Steamboat Springs has a bizarre and tenuous yet little-known connection to the Godfather of Soul James Brown. Back in 1993, City Manger Harvey Rose proposed to name a new $1.5 million bridge connecting Elk River Road and Twentymile Road. Put to the public, one nomination stood out: the James Brown Soul Center of the Universe Bridge. Long story short, the name won and unbelievably the man himself came to the Boat for the dedication ceremony.

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GRILL

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Photos (top): Silverton Mountain; (bottom): Period Communications

24 HOURS

S I LV E R T O N

Less than an hour from both Durango and Ouray, Silverton sits in a valley at 9,318 feet which means to roads in and out are susceptible to closures in winter which in turn means that Silverton can be cut off, something that does happen, but often only for 24 hours at a time.

SILVERTON COLORADO

With a history dating back to the 1860s, the town eventually swelled to around 2,000 by 1883 thanks to mining and its related industries. Mining continued to support the town until a period of decline started in 1990. But Silverton refused to die and it is now back and better than ever.

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7 AM | COFFEE & BREAKFAST The Coffee Bear on Greene Street (Silvertonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main thoroughfare) is probably the best place to go to get your cup of Joe. Open seven days a week year round, rain, shine or snowstorm, it was originally located in a smaller property on the same street but last year owner Inga McFadden snapped up the current location at 1129 Greene Street and moved the coffee house into the stunning brick building. Coffee Bear has all the regular coffee shop offerings, including deliciously moist oversized muffins as well as burritos and the like and a daily soup (pizza soup on the day we visited). There is also Kendall Mountain Cafe and Sage Hen Cafe that both offer a range of breakfast, lunch and brunch items.

9 AM | WINTER WONDERLAND The main, but not only, reason to go to Silverton in winter is to take advantage of the incredible wilderness that envelops the town and all the amazing winter activities that come with it. There is snowmobiling (the Silverton Snowmobile Club grooms miles of multi-use trails and Ice Pirates provides guided tours in the high country with incredible mountain vistas), sledding, ice skating, ice climbing (there are world-class routes right outside town and throughout the surrounding area), and ice fishing, but skiing and snowboarding, especially extreme and heli skiing, is why so many people visit. The eponymous Silverton Mountain has just a single chair lift that takes you from 10,400 feet at the base to 12,300 feet and grants extreme skiers access to a high alpine environment that is surrounded by almost 2,000 acres with descents in every direction including bowls, chutes, and cliffs. In fact, Silverton Mountain is the highest and steepest ski area in North America with a peak elevation of 13,487 feet. From the top of the lift, a short hike takes skiers to a ridge that offers 3,000 feet in vertical drop in a single run. Perhaps the most notable feature of Silverton Mountain and one that draws people from around the world is the heli skiing and snowboarding. Offering access to almost 30,000 acres of terrain, Silverton Mountain is the only operator in the continental United States that offers single runs as well as all-day and private heli skiing options. There are also options to get here from Telluride or Aspen via helicopter. For those who want to cross heli skiing off their bucket list, this is the place to do it with drops for less than $200 per person per drop. For something less adrenaline inducing, Kendall Mountain is a family and beginner friendly place to sashay down the slopes. With a terrifying 240 feet of vertical drop across four groomed trails as well as multiple tree runs, a small terrain park, and a single double chair lift, a season pass for Kendall is an amazing $180 an adult. Photos: Silverton Chamber of Commerce

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12 PM | LUNCH Take a break and head to a brewery for a lovely beer. Avalanche Brewing is one of two breweries in town and it is a place for locals. With bar staff as fun as the beer is good, Avalanche is ostensibly a no frills place for great beer and good food - the pizza is good and the jalapeno poppers are excellent. As for the beers, the flight is a good way to start, especially if you are part of a group. All of the beer is good, but the IPA was good enough for a full pint after the flight was finished. Golden Block Brewery, so named for the area where all of the town’s wealthier merchants were concentrated during the town’s heyday, used to be co-owner Molly Barela’s jewelry store, but with partner Floyd, they opened Golden Block to expand on Floyd’s home-brewing prowess. For winter, the Arrastra Red Ale and the Madame Brown, an English-style ale with a hint of hazelnut and maple, are going to be popular. There is also a flight option here (which comes in a muffin tin which helps with spillage). Food at Golden Block is cooked exclusively in the huge wood-fired brick oven. The Mountain Climber pizza (white sauce, buffalo chicken, onion, bacon, provolone and blue cheese) is good, as are the oven-roasted chicken wings - go for the Asian chili mixed with the medium hot sauce. Round out the afternoon with another outdoor activity that you didn’t get around to before lunch, or hit the slopes again. 38 Photos: Period Communications

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7 PM | DINNER Silverton is a bit thin on the ground when it comes to places to eat in winter, but as long as you accept that going in, you’ll be fine. Eureka Station is the place to go for a slightly more up-market meal. Billed as a Cornish Tavern, the menu at Eureka Station this winter will include a rotating weekly special of Scottish salmon, but as the name suggests they also produce Cornish pasties as a delicious homage to the area’s mining heritage. This winter they will have at least two on the menu - the traditional and the potpie. There is also of course the other brewery you didn’t go to at lunch. If you’re looking for something a tad more hearty, the Brown Bear Cafe on Greene Street is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (with a break during the early part of winter) and is a truly local place with a menu made up of things like Reubens and French dips - and hearty portions of French fries to boot.

WINTER EVENTS 2020 Silverton WhiteOut Feb. 8 This 10-hour fat bike race has several associated events around town and starts with a pancake breakfast at the Grand Imperial and ends with dancing and probably some drinking at the Avon Hotel. Skijoring Feb. 15-16 One of the most anticipated events of the year in Silverton, this two-day event sees hardy souls on skis and snowboards pulled down Silverton’s Notorious Blair Street by horses at high speed as they traverse jumps and other obstacles.

Photos: Top: Period Communications to (middle and bottom): Silverton Chamber of Commerce

HIT THE HAY After an exhausting day with plenty of eating and drinking, you should be dreaming of bed. The most imposing property in town is the Grand Imperial Hotel on Greene Street. Living up to its name, the monumental property dates back to the 1880s when it essentially acted as the base of operations for the town and the county as well as being home to the post office, a bank, a general store, a doctorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s office and the Silverton Standard Newspaper in addition to housing guests. Like stepping back in time but with wifi, the hotel underwent an extensive restoration project a few years ago that has left the property expertly blending the history and grandeur of the hotel with modern conveniences. A couple of blocks down the street is the Wyman Hotel, and it is the perfect complement to the Imperial. A supermodern boutique hotel that wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be out of place in Manhattan, the Wyman has just 16 beautifully appointed rooms. Accented with modern light fixtures, rich padded headboards and marble nightstands, the Wyman, named for businessman Louis Wyman who built the Wyman Building in 1902, is the face of modern Silverton. There will always be a place for grand old dames like the Imperial, but the Wyman will likely bring in a different crowd. Elsewhere there is the Alma House B&B which is said to be good (a bartender in town waxed lyrical about the breakfasts and the owner).

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AT A GLANCE DAY 1

GLENWOOD SPRINGS DO Downhill skiing & soaking

STAY Hotel Colorado

Photo: Glenwood Hot Spring

DAY 2

CARBONDALE Do

72-HOUR ROAD TRIP ROARING FORK HOT SPRINGS

Nordic skiing, soaking and art browsing

STAY The Way Home or Distillery Inn

DAY 3

REDSTONE Coloradoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Roaring Fork Valley is one of the most affluent areas in the state. It is also one of the most beautiful. The stretch from Glenwood Springs to Redstone is home to everything from a ski resort to hot springs, historic hotels and beautiful boutiques as well as distilleries and awesome restaurants. Being less than an hour apart, this mini-road trip is consummate with the hot springs in that it is completely stress free meaning that after you have soaked your stresses away, you will arrive back at your hotel totally blissed out.

DO More soaking and ice skating

STAY Redstone Castle or Redstone Inn

DAY 1 | GLENWOOD SPRINGS Perfectly located just off I-70, Glenwood Springs is easily accessible from around the state, especially from Denver and Grand Junction. With a population of around 10,000, Glenwood has enough options to keep most people busy for a few days while remaining quite quaint. There is also an Amtrak station in the center of town and is the most leisurely way to get to and from Glenwood.

Morning: Ski at Sunlight Mountain A 30-minute drive from Glenwood Springs, Sunlight Mountain Resort has more than 680 acres of skiable terrain

with a nice mix of beginner, intermediate, and expert runs. Home to both one of the steepest runs in the state, The Heathen with a 52 degree pitch, and one of the longest, Ute, a beginner slope that is more than two miles from summit to base, Sunlight is also one of the more affordable resorts with adult lift tickets starting at $68.

Lunch: Slope and Hatch Back in Glenwood Springs, Slope and Hatch is a tiny shop on 7th Street that offers an interesting combination of tacos and hot dogs. As vibrant as they are delicious, Slope and Hatch will put

their tacos up against any in the state. In addition to dogs and tacos, they also have tortas, soups, chowders, and desserts with a full bar.

Afternoon: Iron Mountain Hot Springs After a morning skiing or snowboarding, you will have earned a soak. Sitting practically on the banks of the Colorado River, Iron Mountain Hot Springs has sixteen mineral hot springs pools, each heated to a different temperature ranging from 98 to 108 degrees, that are refreshed every two hours. There are some great views from some of the pools, especially in winter when the surrounding hillsides are coated in snow.

Dinner: CO Ranch House Refined yet rustic, CO Ranch House evokes the ranching and agricultural tradition of Colorado and offers elevated home cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, you can expect to see Western-inspired dishes such as Buffalo Ravioli, Rocky Mountain Ruby Red Trout, and Field & Stream, a combination of grilled elk loin and pan-seared trout served with mashed potatoes, sautĂŠed green beans with mushroom sauce and crispy onions.

Evening: Post-dinner Soak After dinner, return to Iron Mountain for an evening soak (your ticket acts as a day pass).

Stay: Hotel Colorado The Hotel Colorado (which is currently undergoing a renovation) is one of the most famous and historic hotels in the state. Originally built back in 1893 by silver baron Walter Devereux, the recent renovation has maintained the propertyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic roots. The 130-room property has hosted notable and infamous figures over the years including Presidents Taft and Teddy Roosevelt, as well as the Unsinkable Molly Brown and all manner of Chicago mobsters including Al Capone.

Photos (top to bottom): Period Communications,

42 Iron Mountain Hot Springs

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BESPOKE MEDIA S E RV I C E S D E S I G N , C O PY W R I T I N G , A D C R E AT I O N & M O R E

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DAY 2 | CARBONDALE A short drive from Glenwood Springs, Carbondale was settled by hunters and farmers thanks to its rich and fertile riverbottom land who would end up supplying food to towns in the area that sprang up as a result of the mining boom. Today, Carbondale has a vibrant arts community, some truly excellent places to eat and drink and has a wide range of community gatherings and events.

Morning: Spring into the Day Before setting off from Glenwood Springs, enjoy your second hot springs of the trip at Glenwood Hot Springs Resort. Curing ailments and relaxing aching muscles for over 130 years, Glenwood Hot Springs has the world’s largest hot springs pool at 1,071,000 gallons as well as a fullservice spa. There are water slides, but unfortunately they have closed for the season. Treat yourself to breakfast at Sweet Coloradough on your way out of town. One of the state’s best places to get a donut (they also serve a range of sandwiches as well as beer, wine and spirits), Sweet Coloradough has a daily happy hour where patrons are offered a free drink depending on the day. On your way there, you’ll pretty much pass by the grave of legendary gunslinger and dentist Doc Holliday (it’s a short hike to Linwood Cemetery from Grand Avenue).

Afternoon: Nordic Ski A beautiful area with plenty of things to do outdoors, Nordic skiing on the 13 miles of free, groomed trails at Spring Gulch is a popular activity and spot with locals.

Lunch: Silo Silo is a very popular place with the locals. A few minutes drive north of downtown, it offers a pared back menu of salads, soups and sandwiches for lunch as well as serving breakfast

WESTOF105.COM Photos: Period Communications

all day. Silo is also good for brunch, especially on the weekend when you may feel inclined to have a cocktail.

Evening: Explore the Arts Carbondale has a thriving arts scene with the Thunder River Theatre Company and the Carbondale Arts R2 to name but two creative outlets. Check their event calendars to see what’s on.

Dinner: Carbondale Beer Works Carbondale Beer Works is a neighborhood bar and comes with everything that entails- nachos, wings and tacos, but they also have a few items for the more health conscious including Blasted Broccoli (oven roasted with garlic, Parmesan and a lemon wedge), a Buddha Bowl (broccoli, kale, cucumber, green apple slices, sesame seeds and a miso vinaigrette); and the Veggie Brewben which is like a Reuben but with “pastramied” mushrooms. They also offer tofu bites if you don’t like the idea of chicken wings.

Stay: The Way Home or The Distillery Inn The pair of rooms at The Way Home are beautiful, but Carbondale is home to another boutique hotel, and if you enjoyed a few delicious cocktails at the Marble Bar you might like how close by it is. The Distillery Inn is the only inn in the world housed within a working distillery. The five luxury suites are beautiful as they are sustainable - which is very.

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DAY 3 | REDSTONE Evening: Penny Hot Springs Located just five minutes north, in between mile markers 56 and 55, is Penny Hot Springs. A natural hot spring that spews hot water straight into the Crystal River at 130 degrees. There are no facilities at all, so come prepared.

Stay: Castle or Inn Redstone isn’t exactly awash with accommodation options, but the Redstone Inn at the end of town offers rooms with a more historic feel, while Redstone Castle is more luxurious.

Easily one of the most idyllic little mountain towns in Colorado, Redstone was founded by industrialist John Osgood back in the late 19th century for workers at his coal mining enterprise. Osgood also built nearby Redstone Castle (which was originally called Cleveholm Manor), a 42-room Tudor-style mansion that Osgood built for his second wife. The castle recently reopened to the public for tours and overnight stays. In town is the Redstone Inn, a historic property that offers on-site dining and an outdoor hot tub. The drive from Carbondale is short but beautiful (it is in fact part of the West Elk Loop Scenic Byway) and takes you past the imposing Mount Sopris and along the Crystal River.

Morning: More Hot Springs Spend the morning soaking at Avalanche Ranch Cabins and Hot Springs. Just over halfway between Carbondale and Redstone, the ranch has three hot springs on the property, and while they are primarily for cabin guests, they are accessible to the public via reservation.

Lunch: Redstone Inn The restaurant at the Redstone Inn has a sizable menu with pastas, salads and entrees that range from ribeye to homemade meatloaf.

Afternoon: Ice skating Redstone has a very small but very quaint ice skating rink in town with free rentals at the warming hut. For something more adrenaline inducing, there is some excellent ice climbing in the area including Avocado Gully which is a 200-foot climb that is accessed directly off Highway 133.

Dinner: A Piece of Pie The newest addition to town, Propaganda Pie wouldn’t be out of place in Denver, so it is quite a coup for little Redstone to get something so … cool. Offering Detroit-style pizza, they also have specials during the week as well as a happy hour every day between 3 6 pm. Propaganda Pie is closed every Tuesday and Wednesday during winter.

Photos (top): Redstone Castle; (middle and bottom): Period Communications

Leadville: Top of the World

Photos (clockwise from top): Diana Lange, Lake County Tourism Panel, Snowshoe race, Cooper; (opposite page): Diana Lange

The highest incorporated city in North America at 10,156 feet, Leadville is home to hardy souls, endurance athletes and awesome winter experiences.

While there are things to do, see, eat and drink year round in Leadville, it is in winter that the town of fewer than 3,000 people comes alive. There is, of course, skiing at Cooper as well as other outdoor activities such as snowmobiling and crosscountry skiing, as well as annual events and, this year, there is a special event that will, for a brief time, focus the eyes of winter sports enthusiasts around the country on the town.

Stache and Solstice, both of which are glades with steep grades; Bumpus Rumpus and Swan Song, two new chutes; and cleared runs Maverick and Viper. Then there is the new Tennessee Creek Basin where 19 new named trails, all served by a new lift, await.

Slopestyle Just outside town is Cooper ski area. Covering 470 acres, Cooper has undergone some changes this winter including 70 new acres of advanced terrain. Among the new advanced runs are Powder

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Skijoring One of Leadvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier events every winter is the Leadville Skijoring and Crystal Carnival Weekend. Taking place from March 6-8, the weekend is a celebration of outdoor fun. Skijoring, for those who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, is an action-packed sport

WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS

where a horse pulls a skier and races down Leadville’s snow-covered downtown by a rope, taking off over jumps as they go. It is quintessential Colorado and combines two facets of mountain living: winter sports and the ranching culture. And that isn't all. The weekend festival also includes mountain bike and Nordic ski races, a paintball biathlon, and all kinds of other fun events with something for everyone.

In the National Spotlight This winter, Leadville will play host to the 2020 U.S. National Snowshoe Championships from Feb. 28 – March 1, 2020. The event will feature a 5K, a 10K, a halfmarathon and a marathon. Around 300 racers, from the very young to the quite old, are expected. The event will also include the first-ever National Collegiate Snowshoe Championships And when you are done enjoying all of the above, there are great places to eat, drink and stay. The familyowned Periodic Brewing is Leadville’s only brewery (for now) and offers a great range of beers, while the historic Delaware Hotel is a great place to rest up after a busy day. Built by the Callaway brothers from Delaware in 1886 as the Delaware Hotel Block, the hotel is nothing short of awesome. As for what to eat, Harrison Avenue is lined with a really good range of restaurants from Chinese to Cuban. Away from the cold, there is the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum. At one time called the “Smithsonian of the Rockies,” the museum tells the story of mining and how it impacted the development of the West.

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YEAR ROUND FUN IN GRAND JUNCTION While most of the area west of 105 is blanketed in snow for the duration of winter, there are areas and towns where temperatures stay just high enough to not suffer unrelenting subzero temperatures and snow cover. Grand Junction is one of those towns. Sitting in between mountains and high dessert, Grand Junction differs from many other parts of the state in that it has a slew of year-round offerings. From hiking to wine tastings, golf and great food, Grand Junction is well positioned for any type of adventure you are searching for. Photos: Visit Grand Junction

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Hike or Ski It isn’t that Grand Junction isn’t a winter destination, it’s just that being in a high-desert area, more than one season can be supported at any one time. The incredible Colorado National Monument and Grand Mesa are good examples. Both are a short drive from downtown and offer activities from hiking to downhill skiing. For a true winter experience take your skis or snowshoes to Grand Mesa (the largest flat top mesa in the world no less) and snowshoe, cross country ski, or downhill ski at Powderhorn Mountain Resort. The modestly-sized resort gets an average of 250 inches of powder each winter and claims to have best tree-skiing in the Rockies. Then there are the affordable tickets and lift lines are shorter than at the bigger resorts. For something less wintery head the opposite direction to Colorado National Monument. While there may well be snow on the ground (but maybe not, call ahead to check), there will definitely be times and trails that require nothing more than a sturdy pair of hiking boots. Window Rock Trail is great for a stroll. Starting at Saddlehorn campground (which is open year round if you like the idea of some winter camping) it is just 0.25 miles one way and makes its way through pinyon-juniper woodland to overlook with excellent views of Monument and Wedding Canyons.

Par for the Courses If you happen to like gentle walks and have a thing for funny trousers, the

Grand Junction area has several golf courses that stay open throughout winter as long as there isn't any snow on the ground. For a full round there are at least three courses: Chipeta Golf Course is a premier, 18-hole, executive course located five miles south of downtown Grand Junction; the Golf Club at Redlands Mesa is Grand Junction's newest golf course and was ranked the #1 public golf course in Colorado in 2017 by Golfweek; and Tiara Rado Golf Course which is at the base of the Colorado National Monument. Right in the middle of town is Lincoln Parks nine-hole course. It is the oldest operating golf course on the Western Slope and was built in 1926.

Destination Downtown To get into the spirit of the season, take a stroll around Grand Junction’s picturesque and very walkable downtown. Lined with trees laden with festive lights, downtown is also

home to over 100 sculptures as well as boutiques and even craft studios offering classes in candle making, Pinterest crafts and pottery among others. Also downtown, there are plenty of great places to eat and drink, including a few breweries and even a few wine tasting rooms.

Wine Country Speaking of wine, Grand Junction sits right in the middle of Colorado wine country with numerous vineyards and tasting rooms within a short drive in several directions. The closest to downtown is Two Rivers Winery and Chateau. Practically backing onto National Monument, the winery is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. You can read more about Grand Junction in the spring 2019 issue of West of 105 magazine by visiting westof105.com/magazine

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WEST OF 105 ARCHIVE

DOWNLOAD PA S T I S S U E S O F WEST OF 105 FOR FREE AT WESTOF105.COM/ MAGAZINE

DRINKING & DINING +

PAGE 60 SKI SEASON STAPLES: OUR TOP PICKS TO INDULGE IN FOR APRES SKI

SEASONAL BREWS: SIX WINTER BEERS

WINTER WARMERS: CHEERS TO THE COLD

RESTAURANT PROFILE: SALT, POLLEN

A new season means a slew of new or returning beers. We’ve picked a few that we’ll be drinking throughout winter (and quite possibly well into the spring).

If you want something a little stronger than beer, may we suggest a delicious cocktail? We’ve picked a few of our favorites and made them with locally-produced spirits.

Chef Marcus Parrott has brought his culinary chops to little Paonia with Salt, Pollen where ingredients from the region are transformed into delicious dishes.

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SEASONAL

LEFT HAND BREWING CO.

NEW BELGIUM

SKA BREWING

RASPBERRY MILK STOUT

ACCUMULATION WHITE IPA

EUPHORIA

Making its debut earlier this year, Left Handâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Raspberry Milk Stout was so well received that it has been brought back as a seasonal this winter. It is a stout, so you can expect there to be roasted coffee, chocolate and malt flavors, but the addition of raspberry, a classic companion flavor for chocolate, works really well.

This winter offering is a hazy and pale golden white IPA. With a strong hop aroma that evokes tropical fruit, citrus, and a spicy/herbal note thanks to heavy dry hopping, there is just a hint of sweetness with bitterness being smoothed out by the addition of wheat. The body is medium-light while the oils from the hops give a slightly resinous flavor but the finish is clean.

Returning this year to celebrate its 13th year of a partnership with Venture Snowboards in Silverton, Euphoria has a solid malt backbone with a caramel sweetness and a hint of chocolate as well as grapefruit hop aroma courtesy of a huge dry hop addition. The classic beer was born to be eaten with pizza and is great for a post-powder day session.

5.7% ABV | 23 IBUs

6.2% ABV | 55 IBUs

6.2% ABV | 58 IBUs

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BREWS

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ODELL BREWING CO

TOMMYKNOCKER

BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY

BARRELED TREASURE

COCOA PORTER MOUNTAIN ALE

CHRISTMAS ALE

This Imperial stout from the Fort Collins brewery is one to sip in front of a log fire. Aged in both bourbon and rum barrels and finished with coffee, Barreled Treasure has a complex profile with aromas and flavors of espresso, molasses and chocolate. The powerful flavor combination requires some equally powerful food to go with it - try ripe cheese and cured meats.

Tommyknocker has eight yearround beers and currently five seasonal or limited release brews, one of which is the Cocoa Porter Mountain Ale. Dark caramel in color, the head dissipates rapidly, but the flavor is of burnt caramel sweet with a slight bitter finish. The body is light, as the relatively low ABV suggests it will be.

It may well have Christmas in the name, but this malty and full-bodied beer will stand you in good stead throughout winter. The Christmassyness of the beer comes from the caramel and chocolate flavors that are present thanks to the roasted malts while chinook and Mt. Hood hops give a slight spiciness that perhaps alludes to classic Christmas spices.

11% ABV | 49 IBUs

5.7% ABV | 18 IBUs

7.1% ABV | 22 IBUs

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Winter War mers Cocktails are perhaps the most versatile category of drinks with something for every occasion or season whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a scorching hot day or sub-zero. We chose six winter warmers that utilize some amazing spirits distilled west of 105

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WEST OF 105 | DRINKING & DINING

Spiked Hot Chocolate The classic winter warmer, hot chocolate is easily the oldest drink on our list, dating back thousands of years to the Maya culture. Like many of the other delicious drinks here, hot chocolate can be adapted to your needs or tastes. Make it thick, as in Italy’s cioccolata calda or Spain’s chocolate a la taza or you can make a spicy Mexican version with chile de árbol or add orange, cherry or salted caramel. However, our favorite version is made with peppermint schnapps. We love our hot chocolate a little thicker than most and so we go down the champurrado route (which is to say thickened with flour - either corn or wheat). Make it local To add the deliciously contradictory cooling and warming affect you only get from peppermint schnapps, we used Telluride Distilling Company’s Chairlift Warmer Peppermint Schnapps. Less sweet than other versions, the flavor comes from actual peppermint and won the company a gold medal at the 2018 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Top with whipped cream and feel free to add a candy cane too.

Hot Buttered Rum Hot Buttered Rum is a classic winter drink that dates back to colonial days. After the British Royal Navy captured Jamaica in 1655, rum became the booze of choice for the sailors’ daily ration. Eventually, colonists began importing rum and it managed to find its way into traditional drinks from Europe where hot, spiced alcohol-spiked drinks fortified against brutal winters. A pretty straightforward combination of hot

water, sugar, dark rum, butter and a cinnamon stick, the ingredients are what make or break buttered rum - try maple syrup and good (unsalted) butter. Make it local Perhaps the biggest factor in the quality of your Hot Buttered Rum is the rum. Montanya Distillers in Crested Butte has been around for more than a decade and @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

their Oro rum is a good choice. Aged for a year in an American White Oak barrel that previously held Laws Colorado Whiskey, the Oro is full-bodied. Oro was named USA Rum of the Year at the Berlin International Spirits Competition in 2017. Coming soon is the Valentia, a rum that will pay tribute to women breaking the glass ceiling in rum, craft spirits, and the alcohol beverage industry.

Horchata While there are several versions of horchata and lots of geographic variations, we like horchata de arroz, but there are plenty of variations that include all kinds of other ingredients such as almonds, barley, oats or coconut and use water, milk, condensed milk or a combination. Milk makes for a more luxurious version. The version most commonly found in Mexico, horchata de arroz is made with soaked long grain rice, sugar and cinnamon. Make it local We like to add vanilla, but what really makes ours special is that we use Lucky-Oh, a horchata spirit with notes of cinnamon, vanilla, coconut and cocoa from Stoneyard Distillery in Dotsero and is distilled from Colorado beet sugar. Stoneyard uses Lucky-Oh in its Horchalada cocktail which is available ready to drink in bottles and cans.

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Spiked Egg Nog If mulled wine is a winter classic, eggnog is a Christmas classic, but made right, this luxuriously creamy concoction is so good that it can and should be drunk throughout the season. There will be those who insist on only drinking eggnog cold, but there is no reason it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;t be heated a little especially as it is said to have originated from the early medieval British drink posset, which was made with hot milk that was curdled with wine or ale and flavored with spices. For a really good nog, use fresh vanilla pods, dust with freshly grated nutmeg and fortify with bourbon to warm you through whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re drinking it cold or warm. Make it local We used bourbon from 10th Mountain Whiskey and Spirit Company. With three gold medals under its belt (Global Spirits Competition, North American Whiskey and Bourbon Competition, and the Denver International Spirits Festival), the mediumbodied bourbon is made with corn, rye and barley and has a medium sweetness with a vanilla finish. @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

Lemon Drop The Lemon Drop is a vodka based cocktail made with lemon juice, triple sec and simple syrup. For winter, we love the idea that the lemon drop can be a play on a honey and lemon cold remedy meaning this could very easily be served warm as a sort of vodka hot toddy. Served warm, it is soothing and sort of refreshing leaving you feeling lighter on your feet that some of the heavier cocktails here with enough alcohol to make you a tad unsteady on your feet if you have more than a couple. Make it local Our take eschews vodka in favor of Leoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Limoncello from 808 Distillery in Eagle. Made from a combination of lemon peelinfused alcohol and syrup, Limoncello is almost a ready-made Lemon Drop. Limoncello tends to be on the sweet side, so if you want your winter Lemon Drop to be a tad more acidic, add some fresh lemon juice. Add some triple sec, if you like, but be sure to garnish the rim with sugar.

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Mulled Wine A cold-weather classic, mulled wine employs a lot of strong flavors so using a delicate wine isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t recommended, but there is a balance. Bolder, full-bodied red wines such as syrah, malbec, zinfandel and merlot stand up to the kinds of ingredients you can expect to find in mulled wine like star anise and cloves. You might consider taking the advice of the Forme of Cury, a medieval

English cookery book from 1390, by adding cardamom, galangal and ginger to cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. After steeping the spices in sweetened wine for a day, they are strained out through a conical cloth filter bag. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to be taking this outside, we recommend fortifying it (and yourself) with a nip of brandy. Simply heat the strained wine the brandy and serve @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

in glasses with a slice of orange and a stick of cinnamon. Make it local Our version uses the merlot blend (79 percent merlot, 16 syrah, 5 percent cabernet crimson) from Maison La Belle Vie in Palisade which has notes of blackberry and plum with a light finish. 59

SKI SEASON STAPLES

The weather often dictates what we want to eat or drink. Summer is perfect for spritzers and salads while fall, with its mix of sunny days and chilly nights, calls for a dash of pumpkin pie spice. Winter, however, calls for dishes and drinks that are deeply comforting with an ability to warm you from the inside out, a state that the Germans call gemütlichkeit.

white wine. The soup can, and should be, complemented with Alpino Vino’s luxurious grilled cheese which is made with Parmesan sourdough, double cream Colorado cheese, basil pesto, roasted tomatoes and arugula.

Here are a few dishes that we will be eating regularly this winter and where to get them.

TOMATO SOUP Ajax Tavern at the Little Nell brings back its tomato soup every winter. Accompanied by a grilled cheese sandwich on sourdough with Gruyere, provolone and cheddar cheeses, the soup, which is vegan, is made with fresh tomatoes, shallots and garlic and is much more than the sum of its seemingly simple parts. In Telluride, seasonal restaurant Alpino Vino also has a signature tomato soup that returns each winter. Much like the soup at Ajax Tavern, this one seems deceptively simple and includes tomatoes, garlic, onions, a hint of flour and vegetable broth with Photo: 60 Ajax Tavern / Little Nell

FRENCH ONION SOUP Michel of Michel’s Corner Crepes in Durango adds this luxurious soup to his repertoire every winter. His version, which being a European is of the classic variety, includes sauvignon blanc or pinot gris and good veal or beef stock (Michel recommends not using beef base as it is too salty). The crouton is a slice of grilled baguette topped with a

WEST OF 105 | DRINKING & DINING slice of Gruyere. Melt the cheese under a broiler or use a gas blowtorch, but be very careful not to burn the cheese, it should be just lightly browned. At Steamboat Resort, Ragner’s version of French onion soup, which it calls Golden Onion Soup, isn’t a year-round treat, instead returning each winter to warm and feed hungry winter sports enthusiasts. At Ragner’s the soup, in addition to the main ingredient obviously, calls for a blend of herbs and spices as well as brandy and red wine. It is then topped with housemade croutons that are topped with Jarlsberg cheese which is melted to gooey perfection before being served up.

FONDUE The Alpinist and the Goat in Telluride offers six different fondues including a basque version made with Emmental, Manchego and chorizo; a local version called Telluride Scrapple made with aged Irish cheddar, Gruyere, bacon and chives as well as a traditional version. Swiss Haven in Breckenridge also has six different cheese fondues (as well as two meat versions). The Neuenberger is made from Emmental and Gruyère, the Peak 8 is a mix of Emmental, gruyère, raclette, Appenzeller and vacherin, while the Moitié-Moitié is a mixture of vacherin Gruyère.

Photo: Goodys Mountain Creperie

PASTY The Tin Cup Pasty Co. in Crested Butte has around 10 different pasties including the Detonator, a chicken tikka masala pasty; and the Mother Load, a meaty creation made with pulled pork, barbecue sauce, mac and cheese, and pickles. Eureka Station in Silverton bills itself as a Cornish tavern, and while pasties take something of a back seat to more formal entrees during winter (this winter that will be a rotating fresh Scottish Salmon entree) they will have the traditional and the pot pie pasty on offer (served with hand cut French fries and a chopped salad).

DESSERT At The Village Table in Mountain Village, the menu is traditional Spanish with a few general Mediterranean dishes thrown in for good measure. One dish that should finish every meal here is the chocolate mousse. Silky smooth, it’s made with semi sweet chocolate, olive oil instead of butter, sea salt and chokecherry dust. If there’s a better chocolate mousse in the state, we haven’t tried it. A dessert that you will be able to find at ski resorts across the state this winter are crepes. While Michel in Durango specializes in crepes, Goodys Mountain Creperie at Winter Park Resort has been serving the French classic for more than a decade. New for this season will be the German Chocolate Cake Crepe. Photo: Tin Cup Pasty Co

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THE PASTY Not particularly common in the US, the pasty is one of Britain’s many contributions to the global canon of culinary creativity. Most commonly associated with miners, especially those miners from Cornwall, the pasty is notable because of its cleverly integrated disposable pastry “handle.” With filthy hands, and in the case of tin miners from Cornwall coated in arsenic dust, the handle is discarded after the rest of the pasty is eaten. The most famous pasty, the Cornish pasty, must be made in a very specific way to be called a Cornish pasty and to be accepted by any self respecting Cornish man or woman. A true Cornish pasty must have no meat other than beef and no vegetables apart from sliced or diced potato, swede (rutabaga), onion and seasoning to taste (mainly salt and pepper). There must be at least 12.5 percent beef and 25 percent vegetables. All the ingredients must be uncooked when the pasty is assembled and then slowly baked. Finally, the crimp - or the handle - must be on the side (pasties crimped on the top are from Cornwall’s neighboring county of Devon).

With a population of less than 1,500 people, the quaint town of Paonia in Colorado’s North Fork Valley is where ranchers and the agricultural community meet artists and lovers of the outdoors. Salt, Pollen, a restaurant on the corner of Main and 3rd streets, serves up the fruits of the labors of the former to (mostly) the latter.

RESTAURANT PROFILE SALT, POLLEN

Named from a passage from Michael Ondaatje’s 1992 novel “The English Patient,” Marcus Parrott opened Salt, Pollen back in May of this year, and as with most restaurants worth their salt, it has been a labor of love. “It’s a whirlwind,” he says. “It’s a wild ride. You know, it has its ups and downs, and it’s a lot of work, but a few nights ago we had live music, and the bar was packed. It was a good night and we served some good food, and I came out and I just felt...cool. You know, like Bogie in Casablanca, but with a lot of help.”

eventually someone noticed that I worked hard and wanted to see if I could cook,” he says. “Then I just fell in love with the lifestyle and the rush you get on the line.”

As is the story with many chefs, Parrott has been in a kitchen for the majority of his working life, starting back in Iowa City, Iowa. “I started washing dishes and

“We did a lot of handmade stuff [at the Motley Cow] and used a lot of good local ingredients. It was one of the few places doing that in the area at the time.”

Also similar to a lot of chefs, Parrott has done it all. He has worked in a range of kitchens from fine dining restaurants to places that serve bar food “with plenty of burger flipping,” he says. Parrott ended up at the now-closed Motley Cow in his native Iowa City - a restaurant he refers to as his finishing school.

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It was here that Parrot would be set on the path that would ultimately bring him to Colorado and finally Paonia. This was 2008 and Parrott was studying journalism at the same time as working at the Motley Cow, but it was also the year that Lehman Brothers filed for bankruptcy which had a domino effect on many industries, including journalism. “One of my professors asked the class what we were going to do after graduating” with the implication it wouldn’t be journalism. “I guess I’ll just keep cooking” was Parrott’s answer. Parrot then spent a while “bouncing around,” moving to San Diego in 2010 where he worked at Whisknladle Restaurant in La Jolla. But while he wasn’t exactly taken with San Diego, it was at Whisknladle where he met Seth Bateman, the chef de cuisine at the time. On Bateman’s last day he gave Parrott a ride home from work. They ended up having a few beers together and Bateman told him all about his new job - at the Smith Fork Ranch which is a 30-minute drive south east of where Parrott would end up in Paonia. “That sounds pretty cool,” Parrott told him. “If you need a hand, give me a call.” A week later he got the call. He worked as a sous chef at the Smith Fork Ranch for two seasons. Then Parrott left Colorado. “I left for a season to go to Alaska where I worked on a tender boat (these boats meet fullyladen fishing boats at sea and buy their catch),” he says. “I just wasn’t really sure what I wanted to do and the owner of Rubicon Roasting in Paonia was actually part owner of the boat which is how I got the job. Initially, they were looking for someone to cook, but they had found a cook by the time I got onboard, so I ended up cleaning fish.” Then he heard that there was a vacancy at Smith Fork for a head chef, and so called and inquired about the open position. He got the job and was there for five seasons, which brings us pretty much up to date. But for someone who isn’t afraid to travel, why open a restaurant in Paonia? “I’ve jumped around a lot in my life and I thought to myself this is a pretty gorgeous

place. It’s kind of off the map for a lot of people, which can make it a little bit difficult to do this, but I just thought I want to try and do something here,” he says. “And, of course, we can utilize a lot of the produce and proteins from the area. Then there are the wines from the area that are getting noticed, and Steve and Jayme [from The Storm Cellar in nearby Hotchkiss] are a huge part of that.” But Parrott has done more than try. He has brought the amazing wealth of produce from the incredibly fertile and productive North Fork Valley into the kitchen at the 40-seat restaurant where it is turned into dishes that will satisfy and delight in equal measure. The current menu will be around for the next few months (likely with some tinkering here and there) and includes tagliatelle Bolognese with Parmesan, which, while ostensibly a simple dish, requires an expert hand to make it superb (which Parrott attains thanks, in

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part, due to the inclusion of a few secret ingredients); and the Colorado-pastured pork shoulder - braised shoulder that is reformed into a roulade and served with a smear of sweet potato puree, braised cabbage and a tart plum chutney which is the perfect foil to the intensely savory pork. Parrot’s personal favorite dish at the moment is the seafood chowder (ling cod, scallops, shrimps, fingerling potatoes, celery, rainbow carrot, and bacon). Parrott is also proud of the reputation that the restaurant’s bread has achieved. The boule-esque sourdough loaves are a treat for the eyes, the ears and the nose as they come out of the oven and make a rasping sound as they slide off the metal peel. Winter will inevitably be relatively lean, but Salt, Pollen will stay open pretty much through winter, with a brief closure of a week or two around the end of January to help Parrott “maintain his sanity.”

LIFESTYLE C LAZY U OUTSIDE OF GRANBY BLENDS LUXURY WITH AN AUTHENTIC RANCH EXPERIENCE

Photo: C Lazy U Ranch

HAVEN: C LAZY U RANCH

WELLNESS: LITTLE FLOWER HEMP

9 SPAS TO VISIT THIS WINTER

This beautiful ranch near Granby effortlessly brings together luxury and ranch living.

This Montrose-based company are adding the healing properties of CBD to everyday beauty products.

Winter can be tough on your body. Why not give yourself a little makeover at one of these fantastic spas?

FASHION | FOR HER

Toad & Co | Women’s Telluride Sherpa Pullover $140 What we love: A classic pullover made from an ultra-soft wool that incorporates material from old garments that are processed in a family-run mill in Italy using mechanical (not chemical) means. It’s blended with nylon for strength and that low-pile look.

Sweaty Betty | Freestyle Ski Merino Base Layer $130 Outdoor Research | Super Transcendent Down Jacket $349 What we love: With a name like Super Transcendent, this jacket has to be good. Fortunately for Outdoor Research, the jacket is a souped up version of its awardwinning down jacket. Warmer and now with weather resistant protection, it is also longer and the women’s version has a waist drawcord.

What we love: Quite possibly the softest base layer we’ve laid our hands on, the fun prints are perfect for après while techy features include temperatureregulating merino which also is quick drying and breathable. Matching leggings complete the ensemble.

Serengeti | Leonora Sunglasses $290 What we love: Elegant and feminine, the Leonora sunglasses are trendy with a distinct vintage edge that mean they are great for everyday use, but at the same time work well if you want to stand out during an après session.

Skea | Chard Hat $48 What we love: This faux fur pom hat - with detachable pom is super soft and super warm. It’s hand-knitted acrylic and comes in several colors.

Forsake | Lucie Mid $139.95 What we love: These midrise boots offer waterproof protection and are equal parts trendy and functional. Lightweight yet thick enough to keep feet toasty on chilly days, the brand’s ‘Peak-to-Pavement’ outsole provides grip and traction.

What we love: These ultra warming down pants offer insulation from the elements and are stylish enough to wear to après or around town. Holden | Hybrid Down Jogger $250

WEST OF 105 | LIFESTYLE

FASHION | FOR HIM

Pearl Izumi | Rove Longsleeve Shirt $80 Rossignol | Palmares Full Zip Layer $225 What we love: A best-selling midlayer from Rossignolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sport-Chic collection, the Palmares is soft, stretchy, breathable, comfortable and quick drying. Two zipped pockets add functionality.

Helly Hansen | The Odin Stretch Hooded Insulator $260 What we love: The warmth-to-weight ratio for this jacket is really quite amazing, and that is thanks to the Primaloft Gold Active+ insulation that has been paired with a superlight and stretchy fabric to achieve a very comfortable, super lightweight and very soft jacket.

What we love: Ostensibly a flannel shirt, the Rove has performance features that make this equally as good for riding or socializing. It has brushed polyester woven twill with wicking performance as well as a slight drop tail for on-bike coverage and BioViz reflective elements for low-light visibility.

Costa | Apalach Sunglasses $249 What we love: With a flatter front and polarized 100 percent UV protection lenses, the Apalach frames enhance your view whether your on the ocean or the slopes.

Adidas | Terrex Tivid Mid CP $120 What we love: These durable dual use pants climbing and general use - are made from organic cotton with a dash of spandex to allow you to stretch just that little bit further. They also have UPF 50+ embedded in the fabric as well as stretch and sun protection.

What we love: With Climaproof weather protection technology, these light winter hiking shoes are stylish and functional. Thy have a molded sock liner that makes for a slightly more comfortable fit and a lightweight EVA midsole for long term cushioning. The TRAXION outsole offers extra grip.

Outdoor Research | Grand Ridge Pants $89

HAVEN

This all-inclusive guest ranch in the heart of the Rocky Mountains effortlessly brings together cowboy culture with luxury living. This year, C Lazy U celebrates 100 years

UST north of Granby in Grand County, C Lazy U offers an authentic dude ranch experience but instead of cowboy coffee and baked beans for dinner, guests can expect what the ranch calls signature Five-Spur Service, meaning there is espresso drinks at breakfast and expertly-prepared cuisine at meal times. For those who want to be particularly social, the main lodge is the central gathering point for the ranch. Meals are served upstairs, but there is a bar downstairs as well as board games and the like for a tech-free evening. As for activities, there are traditional ranch activities such as horseback riding (for those that feel the cold, there is a

12,000-square-foot heated indoor arena, but they also head out onto the trails daily) and because C Lazy U is a working cattle ranch, seasoned riders and beginners with mettle can even get involved in a cattle drive. There are also plenty of other activities (including some that are winter-only) such as the Feed Wagon Sleigh which gives guests the opportunity to feed the ranchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 200 horses up close and learn about the herd dynamics when they are out to pasture. Other activities include winter trap shooting, snow tubing, sleigh rides, ice skating and hockey, snowmobiling and snowshoeing among other things. Then there is the Jingle. Each day you can watch the aforementioned 200 horses run out to pasture after daily trail rides. As for accommodations, C Lazy U has individual rooms and full private

Photos: C Lazy U Ranch

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cabins, varying in size and dĂŠcor but all within walking distance of the Main Lodge. Luxurious yet down-to-earth, rooms and cabins are as cozy as it comes with log fires, leather chairs and the like. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the market for a truly relaxing getaway, a trip to the spa is a must. Moving from its warmweather location next to the river, the menu essentially remains the same with facials, massages, wraps and all kinds of other relaxing and rejuvenating options. Dining is an event at C Lazy U with meals being served community style. Sharing plates are brought to large tables and guests, who sit wherever there is space, are encouraged to mingle and get to know each other over generously proportioned and delicious meals.

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WELLNESS

One of two varieties of cannabis sativa, hemp doesn’t have the psychoactive compound that is found in marijuana and as such is a great source of cannabidiol (CBD) which has a wide range of medicinal implications. Part of what is being called the “Green Wave,” hempderived CBD has inspired a wave of entrepreneurs across the state. One of the latest businesses to join the movement is the Little Flower Hemp Company in Montrose. The majority-women-owned company was started back in 2017 by Margaret Baker and he husband Pat. Initially, the small operation started out of their home, but the company opened its first brick-and-mortar store in Montrose on Dec. 6.

Legally, hemp-derived CBD has to have less than 0.03 percent THC, so there is no chance of getting any kind of high. The organically-grown hemp is grown and processed on the Western Slope in Montrose. It is then made into a wide range of products for both you and your pet. Products on offer include tinctures, cosmetic masques, toners, oils, cleansers, salves and even gummies. And the Little Flower Hemp Company aren’t even close to being done. You can expect more to come in the future including a bath alchemy set and smokeables, to name but a few products that are currently being worked on.

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9 SPAS

to visit this

WINTER Photo: True Nature Healing Arts

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SPA AT GATEWAY CANYONS Gateway Tucked away near the Utah border an hour or so from Grand Junction is Gateway Canyons Resort and Spa. The small spa, with just four treatment rooms (as well as a pedicure and manicure room), has a menu that is designed to treat sore and aching muscles based on the assumption that you will have explored the incredible area that envelops the resort. The spa also has a sauna, jacuzzi, and eucalyptus steam room for guests to use both pre- and post-treatment.

As for treatments, the Native Desert Sage treatment is a highdesert ritual that is said to enhance your mood and leave you enlightened. The 50-minute massage treatment starts with an all-natural desert sage body scrub that gently exfoliates the skin and improves circulation. That is then followed by an application of aromatic mountain arnica oil which is massaged in, leaving you feeling rested and rejuvenated with silky soft skin.

REMÈDE SPA Aspen The Remède Spa is the proprietary spa of the St. Regis and as such they can found all over the world from Aspen to Abu Dhabi. It is, as you might expect, a beautiful and calming place. Decorated with dark wood and leather furniture, the softly lit space starts the relaxation process as soon as you enter. For those looking for treatments inspired by the local culture or flora, each Remède Spa has a unique offering to the area. In Aspen that means rehydration. The Rocky Mountain Ritual was created to exfoliate, smooth, and hydrate and starts with an invigorating exfoliation and soothing aromatherapy bath. You are then wrapped in a warm hydrating cream while you enjoy a foot and scalp treatment. The treatment can be extended with a massage which we highly recommend.

2 VAIL ATHLETIC CLUB Vail

Photos (top to bottom) Gateway Canyons, St. 72 Aspen, Vail Athletic Club Regis

The first spa to open in Vail Village 30 years ago inside Vail Mountain Lodge, visitors to the Spa at the Vail Athletic Club enjoy access to the 18,000-square-foot Vail Athletic Club which is home to Vail’s only public indoor climbing wall. There is also a solarium relaxation room, indoor and outdoor hot tubs, a sauna and a steam room. A theme with high-altitude spas is dealing with problems caused by the altitude. Here, the High Altitude Recovery Treatment begins with a rejuvenating foot treatment and is followed by a massage that utilizes an “altitude adjustment” essential oil formula. The treatment finishes with a tonic that encourages hydration and oxygenates the blood. All products used in the spa are organic, biodynamically grown, plant-based, or handcrafted in Colorado.

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SPA ANJALI Beaver Creek The 27,000-square-foot spa has 14 treatment rooms with a menu that is divided into three healing mountain traditions: the Rockies, the Alps and the Himalayas.

From the Rocky Mountain Journey section of the menu, the Ponderosa Pine Therapy treatment looks to Native American remedies to treat inflammation and muscle pain. The treatment includes a deep tissue massage and light stretching while a heated poultice filled with sage, pine and lavender to alleviate tension. All guests also get to use the various facilities including the Himalayan Salt Sauna Experience. Located inside the saunas in the locker rooms, the heated salt wall is made out of 100 percent pure Himalayan crystal salt and is said to nourish the skin.

SPA OF THE ROCKIES Glenwood Springs Spa of the Rockies has eight treatment rooms including a couples’ suite as well as a specialized hydrotherapy room for Vichy shower treatments, two nail stations and five hydrotherapy tub rooms. Treatments include the “Native Awakening,” a 120-minute treatment that is inspired by Native American culture and purification ceremonies. Starting with a tapotement of willow branches, next a mask of crushed corn and clay is painted onto the skin to absorb toxins and eliminate impurities. This is followed by a full body wrap while heated pieces of basalt sweat out toxins before you are cleansed with an ayate cloth. Finally, herbal compresses infused with spearmint and echinacea are applied and the treatment is finished with a full-body hydrating massage using fluorite stones and sage oil. All signature services also include a soak in the mineral hot springs pool and access to the Athletic Club for the day.

5 SPA AT FOUR SEASONS VAIL Vail The 13-room spa at the Four Seasons includes two couples suites with fireplaces as well as separate men’s and women’s areas that have whirlpool jacuzzis, cold plunge pools, dry saunas and eucalyptus steam rooms. The locker rooms are stocked with locally-sourced amenities and the relaxation lounges have fireplaces. The spa also has a salon and barbershop meaning you can really treat yourself.

Photos (top to bottom) Spa Anjali, Spa of the Rockies, Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts

The 135-minute Spirit of the Rockies treatment takes place in a couples’ suite (whether there is one or two of you) and begins with an essential oil and bath salt soak and is followed by a detoxifying mask to draw out skin impurities. Next you relax in a comforting wrap while getting a scalp and foot massage. A massage with an evergreen-infused shea butter concludes the lengthy treatment. 73

VICEROY SNOWMASS Snowmass The 7,000-square-foot spa is a little less rustic than some other spas on our list, but candles, lighting and the sound of falling water from the infinity pool and waterfall at the center of the spa make it just as relaxing. Signature treatments are based on ancient traditions of the Ute Indians that used to live in the valley.

The Sun Dance ceremony treatment begins with a hydro aromatherapy mineral salt soak and is followed with a red clay body wrap to detoxify and improve circulation. While wrapped, you get a hair and scalp serum treatment, which is followed by a full body massage using a body butter. A hand and foot treatment completes the ritual.

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA, BACHELOR GULCH Beaver Creek Nestled in Beaver Creek Mountain, the 21,000-square-foot spa at the Ritz-Carlton has a range of treatments that incorporate locally-sourced herbs, plants and minerals, including activated charcoal from a local mine. With 19 treatment rooms, relaxation lounges with steam rooms, saunas and plunge pools and a stone-lined coed grotto, the spa is on the larger side. The Miners Mineral Mud Wrap includes a full-body exfoliation, body wrap, scalp massage, hydrotherapy bath, and full body massage and uses activated charcoal mud which is hand mixed during the treatment. Amethyst oil, rose quartz salt, and shea butter are also used. Guests can also soak in a private copper tub to top off the experience.

8 TRUE NATURE HEALING ARTS Carbondale The modest spa inside the kiva at TNHA has just four treatment rooms, but its size belies its quality. TNHA has beautiful facilities and a full complement of traditional spa offerings.

Photos (top to bottom) Shawn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor, The RitzCarlton Bachelor Gulch, True Nature Healing Arts 74

As for treatments, if you really want to go the whole hog at TNHA, the True Ritual signature package might be for you. The three-hour treatment begins with an aromatic ritual bath in a beautiful Japanese bathtub. Next is a detoxifying or moisturizing body scrub then you are wrapped in a cocoon while receiving a marma point facial massage. That is followed by a hot oil scalp treatment, foot reflexology and finishes with a harmonic sound session.

CULTURE & EVENTS DILLON ICE CASTLES ARE MADE FROM OVER 200 MILLION POUNDS OF ICE

QUICKFIRE Q&A We spoke to a group of winter Olympians, past and present, about everything from their favorite sound to what they want to hear when they arrive at the Pearly Gates.

Photo: AJ Mellor

6 UNIQUE WINTER EVENTS TO ATTEND Celebrate the life of a frozen dead guy or watch ice artisans do their thing. Here are six events not to miss this winter.

POSITIVE VIBES Access to winter activities can be tough for people with disabilities, but thanks to groups like the Adaptive Sports Center in Crested Butte, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be.

QUICKFIRE Q&A: INSIDE Colorado is home to the United States Olympic and Paralympic Training Centers, and the state also has a rich history of producing Olympians, especially winter Olympians.

Thedo Remmelink was all about motocross until he discovered snowboarding. He went on to compete in the men's giant slalom at the 1998 Olympics in Nagano. He is currently the Snowboard Pro-Am Race Head Coach at the Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club. He has lived in Steamboat Springs since 2002.

Jasper Good is a 23-year-old Nordic combined athlete. Born and raised in Steamboat Springs, he competed in the 2018 Olympic Winter Games in PyeongChang and is currently on the US National Team.

What’s your favorite thing about Colorado?

All of the outdoor opportunities to be had. In the summer I love mountain biking and trail running as well as the incredible choices for camping with friends and family.

The wide open spaces with lots of different terrain, the mountains and, of course, the sunshine.

What’s your favorite thing about Colorado?

What’s your favorite song? What’s your favorite possession? Right now, “Everyday” by Logic and Marshmello

My Donek Split board What’s your favorite thing about winter? White serene landscapes, muffled sounds, fresh air and split boarding.

What quality do you value most in your friends? A willingness to go on new adventures and a good sense of humor

What would be your last meal? What trait do you find most appealing in other people?

A great curry dish at a hut trip.

If Heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the Pearly Gates?

Passion

Welcome, you've lived your dreams and loved.

Jim Carrey

Who is your favorite film or TV character?

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THE MINDS OF OLYMPIANS With a nod to James Lipton, Bernard Pivot and Marcel Proust, we had a chat with a few Olympians and asked them about everything from their favorite possession to their favorite songs.

Bobby Aldighieri spent seven years on the US ski team. He won a World Cup gold medal in 1988 and was part of the 1991 World Championship Team. The following year he competed in the 1992 Winter Olympics in France. He is currently the Director of Freestyle Moguls at the Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club.

Mikala Schriffen became the first athlete in FIS Ski World Cup history to win in all six disciplines when she won her first super-G win at Lake Louise in December 2018. She also became the first athlete to win four successive World Championship titles in a single discipline in 2019. She is, of course, also a three-time Olympic medalist.

What’s your favorite thing about Colorado?

Being in the mountains, in nature and the freedom of the day to day, and sharing it all with my son Enzo.

The active and outdoorsy culture. And you are also never too far away from the mountains or the city life. It’s such a perfect combination.

What is your idea of earthly happiness? What is your favorite sound? Being connected with nature and with positive people, and learning lessons from the good times as well as the bad.

Ocean waves and the sound of a ski arcing through the snow. And Morgan Freeman’s voice, of course.

What food do you detest? Anchovies! I’m Italian, but they’re too salty, fishy and just nasty in my mouth! What is your favorite winter Olympic event, other than your own? Alpine racing, I like all of the events but probably slalom and giant slalom.

If you could wake up tomorrow with a new skill, what would it be? To be able to a controlled handstand for an extended period of time! What is your favorite summer Olympic sport? Tennis, gymnastics and swimming.

Who’s your hero? What’s a good motto to live life by? In coaching it’s John Wooden, the former UCLA Bruins basketball team coach who 10 national championships in 12 years.

My dad taught me the Golden Rule when I was young: Be nice. Think First. Have fun.

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ICE ICE BABY E

ACH winter an incredible ice castle pops up in Dillon in Summit County. Looking like it has sprung directly from the pages of a fantasy novel, the majestic and monolithic fairy tale fortress attracts tens of thousands of people from far and wide to marvel and play among its icy hallways. A very popular annual event in Dillon, Ice Castles (the formal name of the company that builds the ice castle) will once again return this winter. Made from around 25 million pounds of ice, the one-acre ice castle is constructed from hundreds of thousands of icicles that are hand-placed by dozens of professional ice artists and â&#x20AC;&#x153;gluedâ&#x20AC;? in place by drenching them with water which freezes the icicles in place. It takes around two months to construct the castle with anywhere from 5,000-12,000 icicles being grown and harvested every day. The castle also includes LED-lit sculptures, frozen thrones, ice-carved tunnels, slides and fountains. The concept for Ice Castles was created when founder Brent Christensen wanted to build a simple ice cave for his daughter in the front yard of his home. The idea was so popular with kids from the neighborhood that Christensen turned it into a business. Ice Castles now has six locations across the US. 78

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Photos: AJ Mellor

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6 UNIQUE EVENTS TO Breckenridge Ullr Fest December 11 - 15 This year, Ullr Fest will celebrate 57 years of Viking-inspired fun. The centerpiece of the festival is the Ullr Parade which sees around 12,000 Ullr enthusiasts pack the streets. The parade also features all kinds of floats. Other events throughout the five-day festival includes the crowning of the Ullr King and Queen, the Ullr Ice Plunge which includes a contest for Best Plunge Costume, and culminates with a live performance from The Wood Brothers on Sunday. There will of course be plenty of options to enjoy copious amounts of food and drinks, too.

UtePils Beer Festival 2020 January 11 - 12 Returning to Ridgway for the second year, the UtePils (the Norwegian word for drinking lager outside and pronounced â&#x20AC;&#x153;ooh-ta-pilzâ&#x20AC;?) Beer Festival is a two-day celebration of drinking beer outdoors. The event will be held in conjunction with the San Juan Skijoring event on Jan. 11 and 12 at the Ouray County Fairgrounds and 4H Event Center. Aiming to bring at least 20 regional breweries to the fairgrounds, the beer tents will be set up right next to the track.

Breckenridge International Snow Sculpture Championships January 24 - 29 Sixteen teams from around the world will descend on Breckenridge in late January to hand-carve 20-ton blocks of snow into works of art. Only hand tools are permitted but there is no limit to the imagination of the teams. The contest spans five days with teams spending around almost 100 hours creating an alfresco art gallery in historic downtown Breckenridge. The sculpting takes place between Jan. 20-24 and the viewing period is between Jan. 24-29. The event is free.

Photos: (top to bottom) Breckenridge Tourism Office / Maguire, Period Comms, Breckenridge Tourism Office / Carl Scofield

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ENJOY THIS WINTER Cripple Creek Ice Festival February 8 - 16 Now in its 13th year, the Cripple Creek Ice Festival sees talented ice sculptors carve huge blocks of ice into mesmerizing and intricate sculptures. While this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theme is still to be decided, previous themes have included Under the Sea, Rocky Mountain Wonderland, the Old West, and Safari. The festival also has numerous associated events as well as interactive pieces that you are encouraged to climb on or slide down! There will also be street vendors including super hero-themed beverages in a heated beer tent.

Leadville Ski Joring and Crystal Carnival Weekend March 6 - 8 Downtown Leadville transforms into a skijoring run for two days as part of this three-day festival. The action-packed sport of skijoring sees skiers and snowboarders pulled at high speed down a snowpacked street by a horse while trying to navigate jumps and other obstacles and challenges. Competent and brave riders, skiers and snowboarders are welcome to participate. You can also bid on a team at a Calcutta auction or just sit back and enjoy the action on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 3 pm. The weekend festival also includes mountain bike and Nordic ski races, a paintball biathlon, and the Shelter Dog Shuffle, among other events.

Frozen Dead Guy Days March 13 - 15 One of the most unique festivals in the country, Nederland plays host to this homage to Bredo Morstol who is frozen and housed in a Tuff Shed on dry ice above the town. The celebration is three days of beer, music and crazy events like coffin racing, costumed polar plunging, and frozen T-shirt contests. This year, the festival celebrates 19 years and will once again bring in thousands of revelers from around the country.

Photos: (top to bottom) Cripple Creek, Lake County Tourism Panel, Frozen Dead Guy Days

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WORTH THE JOURNEY

While nowhere in Colorado is really that far from anywhere else, there are still times when you need to consider whether a trip is worth the effort or not, especially in winter when conditions can be treacherous. We’ve introduced Worth Traveling For to let you know about a few things we think might be worth the journey.

DRINK

EAT

Our new favorite drink, the Peanut Brittle Manhattan at Remedy Bar at Four Seasons Vail is as smooth as it is nutty. A seemingly simple peanut infused bourbon is combined with a burned sugar simple syrup and aromatic bitters. The ingredients marry together to produce a magnificent and highly moreish drink. As the drink is somewhat labor intensive, there is a limited quantity every day, so be sure to get one before they run out.

This laid back Palisade restaurant has a chef at the helm that has been awarded more stars for his cooking than a Westcliffe night sky. Matthew Chasseur was at the helm of Alinea in Chicago for six years and helped it maintain its three-star rating, a rating that Michelin says is “exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey.” You won’t get the same style of food at Peche, but you will get the same exacting standards.

INDULGE

LEARN

What: Peanut Brittle Manhattans Where: Remedy Bar, Four Seasons Vail

What: Donuts with a free shot Where: Sweet Coloradough, Glenwood Springs

What: Peche.Restaurant Where: Palisade

What: Dog Sledding Where: YMCA Snow Mountain Ranch

The donuts here are very good, but perhaps to Snow Mountain Ranch, one of the YMCA of the distinguish it from its competition further this Rockies’ two facilities, will this year expand their Glenwood Springs donut shop has a happy hour that dog-sledding program to include a full immersion offers a free drink - beer, a shot or wine - with every experience for overnight guests. You’ll get to learn donut. Yes, you read that correctly. As for the donuts, how it works from start to finish, including how to treat we recently enjoyed the maple glazed with a shot of the dogs’ paws, feed and harness them, and put them whiskey. The also have sandwiches, breakfast burritos on the line. Then you’ll get to mush the dogs before and the like. learning how to care for them post-adventure. WESTOF105.COM

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POSITIVE VIBES And the good work the ASC is doing works.

ADAPTING TO WINTER Outdoor enthusiasts in Colorado look forward to winter so they can hurl themselves down steep slopes or climb up ice-encrusted rock faces, but while many of us take for granted how easy it is to enjoy the outdoors, there are many people in our communities that arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t so fortunate. Those with disabilities, whether physical or mental, need help of one kind or another to be able to enjoy the great Colorado outdoors. Fortunately, there are people and groups that provide this assistance. The Adaptive Sports Center based in Crested Butte is one such organization. Back in 1987, a small group of residents in Crested Butte decided to start a program that would provide ski instruction and equipment to people with disabilities. In that first year, 33 participants received lessons from an all-volunteer staff. A year later, a significant contribution from President Jimmy Carter and First Lady Rosalynn Carter enabled the organization to grow. It kept on growing today the ASC is a fullfledged therapeutic recreation program that operates year-round, with adaptive activities ranging from mountain biking and skiing to ice climbing and kayaking. In fact, over 6,000 activities are provided annually to nearly 800 individuals who come to Crested Butte from all over the country and the world.

The Adaptive Sports Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s objective is to set the standard of excellence for adaptive recreation and adventure programming. The ASC focuses on being the model in adaptive adventure recreation, and by incorporating the latest therapeutic recreation practices, professional facilitation and utilizing state-of-the-art equipment, the group aims to provide programming that has a lasting impact on the quality of participantsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives. The programs the ASC provides are inclusive to families and friends and try to empower participants in their daily lives as well and have a positive and enduring effect on self-efficacy, health, independence and overall well-being. In the 30 plus years since the organization was founded, the participant base has expanded to include a broad range of physical, emotional and cognitive differences. On any given day, a child with a rare mitochondrial condition might sit side-by-side with a veteran battling posttraumatic stress. The ASC works with anyone with any type of disability who exhibits a desire to participate in activities, regardless of their capacity to pay, and the ASC partners with numerous hospitals, veteran groups, schools and foundations from across the country.

Clinical studies and post-activity participant surveys have shown that programs at the ASC are creating a positive change in the daily lives of participants. In fact, a 2015-2016 participant survey showed that 100 percent of our participants reported the highest possible level of satisfaction with their programming experience. Participants have noted that the benefits of the programs have an immediate effect, including a sense of empowerment that comes from successfully learning a new skill. This has been further supported by a 2009 Brigham Young University clinical study which found that participation in adaptive sports improved overall health, quality of life, self-confidence, general level of activity, feelings of empowerment, and satisfaction with life. The ASC is always looking for contributions and volunteers to enable them to operate and expand. They also offer internships. Donations, which are gratefully received, help fund lessons and support a scholarship program. The ASC also has an Amazon wish list. As for volunteering, the center is always in need of reliable volunteers to assist either on the mountain or in the office. Considered an essential part of the Adaptive Sports Center team, volunteers are utilized on year-round based on their availability and skill level. Visit adaptivesports.org for more info about donating or volunteering.

EVIDENTLY MOTHER NATURE PLAYS FAVORITES

There is no other place in Colorado where you experience the intersection of so many prized ecosystems. Mountains. Rivers. Canyons. Lakes. High Desert. For people who define themselves by the amount of time they spend outdoors, this is their mecca.

VisitGrandJunction.com 84

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