Pavel Tomanec by Andre Pinkowski

Yatra a photographic pilgrimage into the heart of India

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Yatra a photographic pilgrimage into the heart of India

Pavel Tomanec

To the gentle people who blessed me with these moments.

Contents

Introduction 9 Himalaya Yatra 12 Vrindavan Yatra 50 Acknowledgments 81 Notes on Photography 82 Bibliography 87

Introduction There are two types of journeys: journeys where the destination is the aim, and journeys that are the destination. This second type of journey does not aimless wandering as the traveller learns to see every encounter as a grace and act of God. Such a journey is a yatra. In the Hindu traditions, the spiritual life is often seen as a journey. The path one takes is the spiritual discipline one undertakes. Those who follow the path of work (karma-marga) practice their spirituality through ritual action, those that choose the path of knowledge (jnana-marga) attempt to attain spiritual perfection through philosophical insight, while for those that take the path of devotion (bhakti-marga) God is worshipped through love. Only the devotee (bhakta), many Hindus will say, turns the spiritual journey into the destination, as he or she does not desire to attain the heavenly realm of the gods as those on the path of work do, or escape this material world and attain liberation as those on the path of knowledge do. For one who walks the path of devotion, the destination and the spiritual practice are identical: loving God. For many people in India today life is a such a spiritual journey. Some dedicate themselves exclusively to it and renounce the world to live in sacred places, whereas some pursue their spiritual aspirations in the world, by infusing their worldly duties with the spirit of devotion. One way of expressing oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s devotion is to travel to a place of pilgrimage.The Haribhakti-vilasa, a popular Sanskrit devotional text, states that a journey to a holy place is one of the principal practices of devotion. This too is a yatra, and this journey both becomes an expression of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love for God and stimulates that love. Among the many places of pilgrimage in India the most visited are Badrinath,Vrindavan, and Varanasi in the north, Jagannatha Puri in the east, Shrirangam and Rameshvara in the south, and Dvaraka and Nathdwara in the west. All these place are considered dhamas, or abodes where God resides, and are visited every year by millions of pilgrims, who often undergo long journeys and physical hardship to arrive at the holy site.

If God indeed lives everywhere, as the old saying goes, one may wonder why one should embark on a holy pilgrimage? Could not everyone worship God at home? The sometimes difficult journeys lead not just to the temple or the sacred river situated at the holy site, but more importantly to the saints and sadhus that live there. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One who goes on pilgrimage simply to take bath, but does not seek the company of the saints who reside there, is no better than an ass or a cow,â&#x20AC;? declares the Bhagavata Purana, a classical devotional scripture. The pilgrimage is therefore also a celebration of those who have embarked on a life-long inner yatra. The images in the following pages depict both types of yatras. They depict the places of pilgrimage, the pilgrims, and the residents of the sacred sites, both renounced sadhus and devoted householders. There are two main religious denomination in India:Vaishnavas, who worship Krishna or Vishnu, and Shaivas who worship Shiva. This book will take you to two Vaishnava places of pilgrimage: the majestic Himalayan mountains and Vrindavan, a small but important pilgrimage town in Northern India. The images were taken in April-May 2006, when I visited less photographed parts of the Eastern Himalayas, and from August to October 2007 when I travelled to Uttaranchal in the western Himalayas and Vrindavan, in Uttar Pradesh. Sometime I would live with yogis and sleep under open sky, sometimes in temples or ashramas, sometimes I stayed with devout Hindu families, in all circumstances I would find myself intrigued and blessed to witness a lifestyle so remote and yet so familiar, so human. As if long forgotten impressions in my memory have been awaken while interacting with these genuinely devout people. All the photography is in natural light and mostly within the context of their pilgrimage. The portrait photography has been based on mutual trust and a friendly relationship was established. To acquire an insider perspective, I interviewed many of the pilgrims and sadhus, and their voices can be heard throughout this book.

Pavel Tomanec

Himalaya The name Himalaya means “the abode of snow”. The Himalaya stretches across six countries: India, Nepal, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Bhutan and China. The Himalayan mountains are the planet’s home of the highest peaks. Over many centuries people have lived here in immediate contact with nature and managed to develop a relationship with nature which has been essential in understanding of the world and generally speaking the human condition. Today Himalaya is still home of the sages and rishis. Badrinath in Garhwal Himalaya is a place where Badrinarayana, Vishnu in yogic posture, presides at the well-known Badrinarayana temple. Badrinath is one of the four holy places upon the Himalayas, along with the other three—Gangotri, Yamunotri, and Kedarnath; all four together are known as Char Dham. Badrinath is open for pilgrims only from May to November. The government stops power supply during the winter, when it is no longer accessible for visitors. Despite the severe weather conditions, some yogis and sadhus stay to perform austerities. In Badrinath and other places in the Himalayas, the majority of yogis and sadhus remain in obscurity. A person who wishes to meet and inquire from the ascetics must seek them out in the higher mountains and serve them for as long as possible in those remote mountainous regions. Samdonj village is situated in the Eastern Himalayas. It was established 150 years ago during the British Raj (rule) over India. Nepalise families came to work there on tea plantations. Today it is a home of 70 mainly Vaishnava families. Nagar and Vashista are two picturesque villages above Kullu Valley near Manali and both are respected as places of.

We may have different opinions, thoughts, traditions, languages, etc., but the true religion is the same in all cultures, whether in India, England, America, or Japan. The brahma-teja (spirit soul) is within every human and in all life, and it is the spirit within me that interacts with the spirit within you. The times may be changing, but the true dharma stays eternally the same. Here at Badrinath, we have yogis, some of whom are from 5 years old to 350 years old. At the peak of Urvasi-parvat mountain, there is still a saint who we believe is 500 years old and on Narayana-parvat mountain is a sage who has lived in this world for 250 years. In the cave above the large glacier towards Nila-Kantha mountain, there is a saint many many years old. When I first came to this holy place on Yatra I was under 16 years old. At that time, there was far less population than today. Only thorny forest beds and unpopulated mountains was the sight. I used to just wander around and meditate in a cave along with a very old sage, who told me, “O boy, you are so young, better return.” I replied, “I have not come here simply to return, I have come here to die.” Then that Mahatma (great soul) gave me shelter saying “You are very stubborn and determined, you may stay here with me, but I will stay invisible. Whenever you have difficulties, just remember me and I will appear.” After four days, I took up the vow to not eat any food for twelve months. I sat in a single posture for twelve months... neither eating, not sleeping, nor standing, I drunk only milk. There were only 10 days left for my twelve-months vow to be completed and suddenly Badrinarayana appeared to me as a boy and asked me to take food. I humbly replied that I would eat only after my vow was completed, but He persisted saying that “My father has sent me with some food for you, so you must eat.”

“Mahatmaji, please don’t be stubborn.” When he was persisting that I must eat, I asked Him, “Who are you?” He replied, “The one you meditate upon, whose name you chant, whom you remember and love, I am. You can recognize me with your meditation.” So I relented to eat the food He had brought under the condition that there may never be any shortage of food for as long as I lived in that cave; food, not for me, but for all.

Ganga Bharati Goswami Badrinath, Gharwal Himalaya

yaÁaAnaAM japayaÁaAe’isma sTaAvarANAAM ihmaAlaya: Of sacrifices, I am the sacrifice of quietly repeated prayer; of stationary things I am the Himalaya.

Bhagavad Gita

Before you embark on a yatra you should decide what is your objective. Many pilgrims desire to go to heaven in the next life. But heaven is only a sporting ground of pleasure. One performs pious deeds, achieves heaven, enjoys, and then falls back down after his piety is consumed. But if one reaches Vaikuntha dhama, the spiritual realm, by performance of japa (chanting of Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name) and yoga, he does not return. In heaven, it is practically impossible to continue in one's spiritual practice because the material objects of enjoyment distract one's attention from the real goal and immerse one in sensual pleasure. One gets involved in his own pride, fame, and position. If the yogi wants to be eternally liberated, he or she should only perform japa yoga. Heaven is a place of effortlessly available delights. The flowers there are always blossomed, and their beauty does not fade. Heaven is blessed by God to provide all pleasure. It is only a bhoga-bhumi (land of pleasure), not karma-bhumi (a land of work). But one cannot stay in heaven forever. If one wishes to achieve eternal bliss, then he or she must take shelter of God's holy name. When one is trying to achieve the eternal abode of Vaikuntha, the anxiety-free kingdom of God, the demigods will impede his spiritual progress. They will try to distract him with illusions of power, money, beauty, prestige, etc. The demigods are immortal because they have drunk soma-rasa (nectarine ambrosia), which they extracted by churning the ocean of milk. However, that ambrosia is not available for humans. But the nectar available to humans is the holy name of God, which is far more powerful than the godly ambrosia. With the nectarine chanting of God's holy names, one can achieve a destination far superior to the demigods.

Nila-Kantha Babaji Badrinath

Love is to travel in life with who you really love with service attitude. This is one of the highest form of love. Krishna travels with me and as we go along he dances in my heart and I run after him just like mad person and once I reach him I fell at his feet asking him to dance with me. And we dance, dance and dance for twelve years, then because of my pride Krishna suddenly disappeared from my sight without single utterance. Since then my heart swims in tears and my mind longs after him. Now I am old and my body gets quickly tired, when in a sleep I often see Krishna in dreams, I always ask him to dance with me. He is my best friend so we dance, dance and dance for many years. Then when I wake up my heart is ready to go on with my worldly duties while thinking of my beloved master. The body is old and soon will expire. I will be with Krishna again and he will dance with me. I am certain, my best friend told me. Reunited again the journey will be over, I will never leave Krishna again, I promise. Just by sharing all this with you I feel like in heaven. All are welcome on a yatra.

Devamaya Devi Samdonj

Love is free of bondage and attachment. Just like the gopis loved the Supreme Lord without any desire for personal gain.When the gopis wanted to stop the Lord from leaving Vrindavan, the Lord told them: “Real love will exist whether I am here or whether I am elsewhere.” Love in general is very exalted and yatra is a specific expression of love for the divinities. Once you participate on the yatra in the mood of a gopis you come to understand that love cannot be reciprocated with matter (jada), it can only be reciprocated with a conscious being (caitanya) the Supreme Lord.

Ramanuja Dasa Samdonj

Here in the East, it is known as tapo-bhumi (land of austerities). People in India mostly seeking God, my grandfather would say and I think the same. My grandfather also said, “Life is one lifelong yatra into the heart of the Lord.” And that is the way of bhakti (devotion) which many people in India still live. I feel near to heaven here in Himalayan mountains. Krishna satisfies all our needs and reciprocates with our feelings. We are a happy family.

Veena Ananda Devi Nagar

Yatra is a way of life.You can choose whether you want to go on a tour or on a yatra in your life. A tour is the type journey without Krishna in the centre. If Krishna goes with you then are on a yatra every day. And it is nice to be with Krishna, he guides you, plays with you, and dances with you and sometimes I chase him, like that. Everyone around is also Krishnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s friends and gopis just like one big family. That is what yatra means for me.

Indulekha Devi Samdonj

There are different ways you can travel. By bus, car, train, plane, by foot or on a bike—each travel style has its own time and level of experience. Just like on yatra you can go on three different ways, karma-marga (path of work), jnana-marga (path of wisdom), bhakti-marga (path of love) and there is a constant movement between them in the soul’s journey to God. Vrindavan is exclusively for those browsing on a bhakti-marga. You can imagine it as a place for those who are adventurous enough to enter the inner chambers of God’s heart. And that takes courage... many yogis while they meditate aspire to become a resident of Vrindavan in the next life. Vrindavan is a heaven of heavens.

Ganga Bharati Goswami Badrinath

yaä{cC$AlaABas$antauíAe ãnãAtaItaAe ivamats$ar: / s$ama: is$aÜAvais$aÜAE ca k{(tvaAipa na inabaDyatae // Satisfied with gain that comes spontaneously, crossing beyond duality, free from envy, The same in success and in the absence of success—even though acting, such a person is not bound. Bhagavad Gita

Vrindavan Thirty-five miles north of Agra lies the small town Vrindavan. It has approximately 51,000 citizens, and close to 5000 temples and shrines. The town and the surrounding area, known as Vraja, are very important places on the pilgrim’s map.This is the area where Krishna is said to have grown up in a community of cowherd families.The intimacy of traditional rural life in which Krishna lived still infuses the devotion of Krishna devotees. The people of Vraja approach God with love and tenderness, and many see him as their close friend or lover. This mood permeates the entire town of Vrindavan. Most temples have several daily services where the image of Krishna is worshipped, the charming activities of Krishna are narrated by groups of pilgrims and priests, and one can continually hear devotees chant the names of Krishna and Radha, Krishna’s consort, in temples, ashramas, homes, and streets. Pilgrims come in large numbers to Vrindavan all year round, but February to April and September to November – the only time of the year when temperatures are relatively mild – are the main pilgrimage seasons. Many pilgrims travel from Delhi and other surrounding cities with friends and families, to spend a day or two in the holy town, walk the pilgrimage paths that link the major temples, and absorb themselves in devotional meditation. Many devotees, sadhus and widows have settled permanently in Vrindavan, to dedicate themselves exclusively to their spiritual practice, and can be often seen wandering throughout the area on yatra, visiting the many temples in the area.

pairvaeSayantyastaiÜtvaA paAyayantya: izAzAUna, paya: zAu™aUSantya: pataIna, k(Aiêä, @´antyaAe’paAsya BaAejanama, ilampantya: ‘ama{jantyaAe’nyaA @Ãantya: k(Aê laAecanae vyatyastavañABarNAA: k(Aiêtk{(SNAAintakM( yayau: Some who were serving food left without serving; some nursing their babies set them aside and ran; others who were waiting upon their husbands suddenly stopped and left; while others who where taking their meals set aside their food and departed. Some were putting on make up, others were applying collyrium to their eyes, and others were hurriedly putting on clothes and ornaments in a confused manner— all hastened to Sri Krishna.

Bhagavata Purana

baónaAM janmanaAmantae ÁaAnavaAnmaAM ‘apaâtae / vaAs$audeva: s$avaRimaita s$a mahAtmaA s$auäulaRBa: //

At the end of many births, one who has knowledge offers oneself to me, realizing, “Krishna is everything!”— such an exalted self is very rarely found. Bhagavad Gita

The body is a temple of the Paramatma, the Supreme Lord within the heart. The body is like a cage delivered to us by God and in this body we engage in karma, actions. We do not remember heaven, but for me, wherever I live is heaven. Love is an emotion that is free of bondage. One element or form of love is freedom of the mind (svatantrata) and pleasure of the mind (prasannata). Love is a divine element, which can only be known through spiritual practice. I accept love as the peace and satisfaction of the self (atma-santusti). Haridas Acharya Babaji Vrindavan

Love is when we give a permanent or eternal pleasure to each other. That is love. Even when we meet each other just for a moment we will remember the moment for the rest of life, that moment when we were loved. For example, today I love someone and tomorrow we hate each other, that is not love. Loving exchanges should be remembered forever. Western people are very nice, very organized, and when they come to India I see they are so happy, they go to mountains, bath in the rivers, go to temples, they are looking for something that Western culture cannot give them.These innocent people are hankering for peace and happiness, this is a sign for me that there is something missing in modern way of life, both in the West and the East. Here in Vrindavan all people can learn that money is for life and not that life is for the money.

Smitha Krishna Brahmacari Vrindavan

Heaven is Vrindavan.Vrindavan is heaven for me and Krishna is my beloved Lord.Vrindavan is possible not only in India, also in England, everywhere. I think it is your consciousness where you are at. Where there is purity, peace where there is prosperity there is a heaven, but there must be Krishna also... but Krishna is I think in Vrindavan.

Chuni Lal Acharya Vashista

The journey is internal. It is a journey to Radha and Krishna, the divine couple of Vrindavan. We never want to be them, but at their feet. That is our objective, to be eternally in Vrindavan. That is not the physical Vrindavan, but hridi Vrindavan, the Vrindavan inside your heart. It is really beautiful world. Aribam Shyam Sharma Manipur

smaerAna, BaËÿL‡ayapairicataAM s$aAicaivastaINARä{iíM vaMzAInyastaADarik(zAlayaAmaujjvalaAM can‰ke(NA / gAAeivandAKyaAM hirtanauimata: ke(izAtaITaAeRpak(NQe& maA ‘aeiºaïAstava yaid s$aKaebanDaus$aËeÿista rËÿ: // There is a poem that says: “My dear friend, there is one boy. His name is Govinda. He is standing on the bank of Yamuna river near the Keshighata (name of the river bank), and he’s playing on his flute. And he’s so beautiful that especially during full moon night..., please do not go there.” Why? “Now listen carefully, O my mind, because if you have got intention to enjoy in this world with your family members, wife, children, husband, please do not go there. Krishna waits there in three-curved way with his flute ready to dance.” If you think that you will enjoy more your life in this world, then do not go there.You do not go there. Don’t go my closest friend...

A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Vrindavan

Acknowledgments

Many thanks to Silke Lange, Allen Parker and Andre Pinkowski from Westminster University London. My thanks go also to the friends and teachers at the Oxford Centre for Hindu studies.Without their continuing enthusiasm and encouragement these pages would never manifest. Dr. Kenneth R. Valpey for guiding me through the philosophies of India. Rembert Lutjeharms from Oxford University for editing and Sanskrit proof-reading. Ayush Goyal from Oxford University for assistance with translation of interviews from Hindi. and David Evans, Abhinava Goswami, Mahesh Chhetri, Chuni Lal Acharya

Photography notes & location list

Himalaya Rasa-lila

Painting of the divine couple Radha-Krishna by Orian artist Susanta Senapati who lives in Raghurajura.

Pilgrim

Vrindavan road early morning.

Feet

Captured in Samdonj, Sikkim in the house of a family I stayed with, the feet are of Ramanuja Dasa and his grandson Gopal.

Rama Swami

Young yogin Rama Swami picks up fresh herbs from the Narayana mountain.

Peaks

14-15

Garhwal Himalaya, Nara Parvat mountain peaks after rain. Nali-Kanth meadow altitude approximately 4750 meters after rain.

Approaching cloud

Mountain near Khechupari (Wishing) lake in West Sikkim.

Cave This cave is located approximately 400 meters above Nila-Kantha meadow. The cave is inhabited by holy man.

Kamadhenu

20-21

A cow is the goddess in Himalaya and is looked after with great care and affection.

Look

Bhadri Vishal Brahmacari lives in Goloka Dhama ashram in Haridwar.

Vaishnava sadhu

Swami lives in a small cave near Nila-kantha meadow.

Three little angels

Pathway to Gangaria to holy lake Hemkund.

Three angels

Yatra to Badrinath.

Memory

33.

Messenger

Rabdentse ruins, a second capital of Sikkim established in 1812.

Yatra Steep yatra to Hemkund lake.

Nila-Kantha Babaji lives in Himalayan mountains, he was born in Japan.

Devamaya Devi Devamaya Devi lives in Samdonj, Sikkim with her family. Samdonj village was established approximately 150 years ago by Nepalese Hindu families.

Ramanuja Das

Ramanuja is Devamaya’s husband.

Indulekha

Auntie Indulekha would visit frequently Ramanuja’s home in the afternoon.

Ganga Bharati Goswami

Well known and respected yoga teacher in Badrinath which he did not leave for 50 years. In recent years Goswami started travel in local areas.

Morning

40-41

Page 40 Vashista, which is renowned for worship of sage Vashista Muni. Page 41 Monsoon morning in Samdonj.

Family

Family run temple in Nagar resembles ideal atmosphere.

Kitchen

Stairs

Devamaya Devi daily cooks on wood and cow dung.

From hand made house in Samdonj village.

Gravity

46-47

Photographed in a temple near Samdonj village.

One Nila-Kantha’s peak, end of monsoon season.

48-49

Vrindavan Lila

Play of light and shadow at Bhramar Ghat near Kesi Ghat.

Mandala

52-53

Artwork on the roof of Kusum Sarovara chapel.

Vrindavan landscape

54-55

Near Goverdhan Hill. On the top of the Goverdhan Hill.

Residents

Observing Vrindavan in the morning sun.

Devotee

Walk

On the Way to Krishna

Photographed in Radha and Krishna temple in Siliguri when Series of Untitled images

58-65

From Vrindavanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s street.

Surrender Radha-Ramana temple.

66-67

Charm

A sadhu from ascetic Haridasi sampradaya (disciplic succession).

Brahmacari

Smitha Krishna Brahmacari comes to Vrindavan on yatra from Jagannatha Puri in Orrisa.

Priest

Srinivas Bhattacharya, a village priest, he comes to Vrindavan from Benta Pura in Orrisa.

Mantra

It is common sight in Vrindavan on every wall or pillar painted Radha-Krishna mantra of which the Vedas claim to be the panacea for the distracted mind in the present age of disagreement.

Saint

Feet are in Indian culture considered an impure, on the contrary feet of a saints are venerated.

Young widow

Widows who choose to enter Vrindavan dedicate the rest of their lives to bhakti-yoga and contemplation.

Freedom

78-79

Movement of the heart.

Krishna, the divine dancer Art work by renowned Manipuri RKC Singh painter photographed at the artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s studio RKCS Art gallery, Imphal, Manipur.

Quotation sources p.27

Schweig M. Graham, Bhagavad Gita, Harper San Francisco, 2007, p. 44. p. 45

Schweig M. Graham, Bhagavad Gita, Harper, 2007, p. 75. p.59

H. Rick Jarow,Tales for the Dying, State University of University of New York Press, 2002, p. 100. p. 64

Schweig M. Graham, Bhagavad Gita, Harper, 2007, p. 112.