SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

The “Living Room” of Turin

With its arcades, period palaces and historic cafés, Piazza San Carlo holds the record for the most elegant and picturesque square in the city. By Chiara Zaccarelli

Formerly a parade ground and the city’s marketplace, Piazza San Carlo is located along an axis bisected by the highly central via Roma. Considered the most beautiful square in the city, it still preserves the harmonious 17th century appearance that architect Carlo di Castellamonte gave it when it was originally built. Spread over an area of 12,768 square meters, it is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy, affectionately known to locals as the ‘Caval ëd Bronz’ (the Bronze Horse), at its centre. The monument shows the 16th century Italian hero in the act of sheathing his sword after the victory of San Quintino. Overlooking the square to the east is the 17th century Palazzo Solaro del Borgo which still retains the imprint of the original design by Castellamonte. Featuring lavishly decorated 18th century rooms, the Palazzo is now home to the Accademia Filarmonica (Philharmonic Accademy). The short, southwesterly side of the square is bordered by the Baroque facades of the twin churches of Santa Cristina and San Carlo. However, Piazza San Carlo is not as famous for its monumental appearance as it is for the important social role that it has played since it was first built. It is not therefore surprising that it is described as “The Living Room of Turin”: it was, and continues to be, a site for concerts, political demonstrations and various social and cultural events, as well as celebrations honouring Juventus, Turin’s football team. The square is lined with an array of cafes, where intellectuals and men of culture, but also noblemen and members of the royal family, would meet. Among these, standouts include Caffè San Carlo, which opened in 1842 and was one of the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Caffè Torino, which was patronized by Cesare Pavese and Alcide De Gasperi and Confetteria Stratta, which still boasts its original 1836 furnishings. Here, in addition to numerous sweet treats, you’ll also find traditional giandujotti, the delicious and most symbolic hazelnut chocolate of Piedmont.