Where Florence n 36 June 2021

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

JUNE 2021

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

ALL YOU CAN DO IN FLORENCE DISCOVER TUSCANY BETWEEN NATURE AND ART WINE EXPERIENCE. DISCOVERING THE BEST ORANGE WINES IN ITALY

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Florence June 2021

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» MAP PAGES 58-59 PIAZZA ADUA

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Firenze Fiera

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Casa di Riposo della Beata Elisabetta Vendramini D

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Latest trends or age-old recipe?

Discover the Orange wines, re-evaluated through history as superior products.

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Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Florence has to offer.

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56 ESSENTIALS

Several of the best shopping destinations not far from Florence, offering discounts year-round.

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36 FASHION OUTLETS

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Chiesa Parrocchiale Santissimo Crocifisso a Monticelli

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The Renaissance began here: Lorenzo the Magnificent lived in Palazzo Medici Riccardi and the greatest artists worked there.

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This month’s round-up of art exhibitions in Florence.

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Stazione Firenze Statuto

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52 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.

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PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO MURATORI

PIAZZA DI SAN IACOPINO

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The most famous attractions to visit in Florence: monuments, churches, gardens and hidden treasures.

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At Brandimarte, the historic Florentine silverware brand, you can purchase engravings, glasses, decanters, bracelets, pendants and much more besides.

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the tourism sector is in great difficulties all over the world. We must therefore thank you who are reading us now because you are nonetheless the hope of recovery as the world slowly overcomes the pandemic.

We Italians have experienced all manner of crises and we have always overcome them by trying not to lose that smile of welcome that we once again give you today.

Whether you are our guest due to work, to pleasure or, simply, you have come upon these words via the Internet, the word is always “benvenuto, welcome”, either today or in a few months.

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH

where Florence ®

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ In the centre of Florence, a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by internationl customers, are genuinely unique pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com

M A G A Z I N E

www.whereitalia.com/florence PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.

T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.whereitalia.com/florence PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com RINASCENTE In the heart of the city, in Piazza della Repubblica, Rinascente offers the best of cosmetics, fashion, food and design, with the addition of a new “store of craft” (ground floor) with a focus on hand-made products following the tradition, in perfect harmony with Florentine’s identity. And there’s also the opportunity to enjoy typical tasty dishes while looking at a breathtaking panorama: Rinascente will offer you a priceless experience. www.rinascente.it

CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 COO

L’IPPOGRIFO STAMPE D’ARTE An artisan workshop where you can purchase a memory of your trip to Italy. In this laboratory shop, the Raffaellis create their works with mastery and passion, manually engraving them on copper plates, then printing them on precious limited edition paper. The prints are then handcoloured, signed and numbered by the author. The works can be completed by placing them in hand-made frames. www.ippogrifostampedarte.com

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

amministrazione@proedi.it PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

OFFICINA FARMACEUTICA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Under a nineteenth-century vault, an abundance of perfumes, soaps and cosmetics are to be found. Those wishing to immerse themselves in an experience of yesteryear can find ancient preparations, herbal teas and herbalist products, typical specialties and liqueurs alongside antique scientific materials and unusual gifts such as perfume diffusers for the home, wax products, accessories and decorative items. www.smnovella.com

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS IL MAGAZINE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE THE MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS florence.whereitalia.com/distribution

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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1 BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2

CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia,

Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world.

The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5

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PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it 4 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7 PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps.

The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of

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Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10 MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order.

Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”.

The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade

by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles.

It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13

SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15

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Eternal fascination The large Piazza Santa Croce is one of the main squares of the historic centre of Florence and over time it has become one of the nerve centres of Florentine cultural and commercial life. It has long been the theatre for the city’s festivals, meetings and celebrations, and in the 15th century it hosted jousts and tournaments on horseback.

Facing onto it are the splendid Basilica of Santa Croce and a number of prestigious residences, including Palazzo Cocchi Serristori and Palazzo dell’Antella.

Completed in 1320, the Franciscan church quickly became the sacred place that noble and illustrious Florentines yearned to have as their final resting place: Dante Alighieri, Galileo Galilei, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Macchiavelli, Ugo Foscolo and Vittorio Alfieri, to mention just a few.

Don’t miss a visit to the Bell Tower, the Sacristy with the famous Crucifix of Cimabue and the Medici Chapel, the Cloisters, the Pazzi Chapel, the Museum and the Basement (www.santacroceopera.it).

Since the end of the 15th century, the matches of Calcio Storico Fiorentino have been held in the square and a marble circle has been placed on both Palazzo dell’Antella and the building opposite to indicate the half-way line of the pitch.

On 14 May 1865, on the occasion of the fifth centenary of poet Dante Alighieri’s birth, a monument dedicated to him was positioned in the centre of the square, but the monument has been removed and moved to its current position on the parvis of the church to enable the Calcio in Costume matches to take place.

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PIAZZA SANTA CROCE

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A RENAISSANCE MASTERPIECE. A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums.

Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery.

Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens.

Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school.

Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son.

Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti.

PH © ROBMENTING / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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PALAZZO PITTI MUSEUMS

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WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

About Ponte Vecchio...

It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better.

10 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

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protruding over the river.

Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, without exposing the sovereign to any danger.

ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with a picturesque backroom

A UNIQUE HISTORY The change of identity of the zone during the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which were more appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and sometimes a protagonist – of the history of the city:

irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the Etruscans.

The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, which dates back to around 1345.

Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city.

considering it a source of great pride, Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening up new larger, more panoramic windows for his benefit. One rather romanticised version claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of such beauty, would decide to save the bridge from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator.

UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società

Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.

Vasari Corridor

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however,

that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll.

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER AND ENJOY

Permanent and temporary exhibitions in Florence are gradually returning to welcome visitors after a long season of closure: an opportunity to return to museums, symbolic places of the country’s culture, strating from the complex of the Uffizi Galleries with the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens.

UNTIL 27 JUNE

THE MYTH OF RAPHAEL CONTINUES

After being displayed in the major exhibition organised at the Scuderie del Quirinale in Rome, the ‘Portrait of Pope Leo X with Cardinals Giulio de’ Medici and Luigi de’ Rossi’ returns to its home in Florence. The exhibition documents its restoration and interprets the scientific analyses of the painting, confirming that the masterpiece was executed entirely

by Raphael’s hand.

“Leone X torna a Firenze”.

Palazzo Pitti. www.uffizi.it

UFFIZI GALLERIES – PITTI PALACE – BOBOLI GARDENS ▲ A GREAT REOPENING!

After a long closure, the Uffizi Galleries have reopened their doors, together with the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens. One of the most important and famous museums in the world, the Uffizi is a temple of Italian art, a treasure chest of culture and treasures of immense beauty, the museum houses works of painting, sculpture and architecture ranging from the 14th to the 18th century.

In addition to the ordinary tour, which has now been extended with 14 new rooms devoted to 16th-century Florentine and Roman painting, the museum has also renovated its ticket office, reception and bookshop areas. Don’t miss the temporary exhibitions (see these pages). www.uffizi.it

UNTIL 13 JUNE

WOMEN IN THE CLASSICAL AGE

The exhibition compares the opposing models that characterised the representation of women in the Roman world and is structured into three sections: the negative examples of women, the positive models, and finally the public role given to matrons. The works on display are sculptures, epigraphs, gemstones and drawings.

“Imperatrici, matrone, liberte. Volti e segreti delle donne romane”. Uffizi Gallery. www.uffizi.it

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PH © STEFANO CASATI

“Culture is the only good of mankind which, divided among all, rather than diminishing, becomes greater” Hans-Georg Gadamer (1900-2002)

UNTIL 22 AUGUST Called upon to reinterpret the façade of a symbol of the Florentine Renaissance, JR - one of the world’s most famous contemporary artists proposes a reflection on the accessibility of cultural sites in the age of the Covid-19. With his monumental site-specific installation “La Ferita” (“The Wound”), 28 metres high and 33 metres wide, the artist proposes a sort of visual tear in the facade of Palazzo Strozzi, which opens up to the vision of an interior that is both real and imagined at the same time. The work has been created with a black and white photographic collage, typical of the artist’s style, to create an illusionistic game and to represent a symbolic but painful wound that accumulates all the cultural institutions in Italy and elsewhere.

“La Ferita” by JR Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza degli Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

PH © JULIA NIEBUHR

▲ A NEW FACE FOR PALAZZO STROZZI

Ali Banisadr

UNTIL 29 AUGUST

THE FASCINATION OF RESTLESSNESS UNTIL 8 AUGUST ► DANTE IN FLORENCE

This season the Bargello Museums are hosting an exhibition that - on the occasion of the celebrations for the 700th anniversary of Dante’s death - reconstructs the relationship between the Supreme Poet and the city of Florence in the years immediately following his death, presenting the actors, initiatives, places and themes.

Don’t miss a visit to the Palazzo del Bargello, the oldest public building in Florence, which is a real pantheon of Renaissance sculpture where you can move among the masterpieces by Michelangelo, Donatello, Giambologna and Verrocchio.

“Onorevole e antico cittadino di Firenze”. Il Bargello per Dante Musei del Bargello, Via del Proconsolo 4. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it

The Ali Banisadr’s first exhibition in an Italian museum, and the first in Florence, brings his work face to face with the art and history of Florence: at the Museo Stefano Bardini, the artist’s paintings will be in dialogue with the works of the collection created by Bardini, with medieval and Renaissance marbles and paintings, with Persian carpets and with the shining armour preserved in the museum characterised by the famous Bardini “blue”. In Palazzo Vecchio, the artist has been invited to create three site-specific paintings, inspired by the reading of Dantes “Divine Comedy” on the occasion of the celebrations for the 700th anniversary of the death of the Supreme Poet.

ALI BANISADR. Beautiful Lies Museo Stefano Bardini and Museo di Palazzo Vecchio, Sala dei Gigli www.museonovecento.it

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 18 APRIL 2022

A WUNDERKAMMER OF SILK PRINTS

BY FERRAGAMO

Until 1950, the Ferragamo name was synonymous with women’s footwear. The brand’s founder, Salvatore, dreamed of transforming his internationally renowned brand into a fashion label that dressed a woman from head to toe. And his dream came true: it was one of his daughters, Fulvia, who launched in the 1970s the continuous production of women’s and men’s silk accessories with personalized patterns characterized by exclusive decorative subjects, especially flowers and exotic animals. This creative world overflows with inspirational references, from oriental art to twentieth-century paintings or ancient tomes on botany. At the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo you can explore the universe of printed fabrics, ties and scarves combined with the sources of inspiration for each motif - whether it be a book, a painting, vase or sculpture.

SETA. Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. Palazzo Spini Feroni www.ferragamo.com

Lorenzo the Magnificent lived in Palazzo Medici Riccardi and the greatest artists worked there. Unmissable from the Medici period are the Magi Chapel, frescoed in the 15th century by Benozzo Gozzoli, a work of rare beauty, as are the famous “Madonna with Child” by Filippo Lippi, the elegant Michelozzo’s courtyard and the Medici Gardens with the Limonaia.

The Magi Chapel Palazzo Medici Riccardi. musefirenze.it

14 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

PH © ANTONIO QUATTRONE

THE RENAISSANCE BEGAN HERE

► NEWS FROM THE “DAVID”

MUSEUM

PH © MASSIMO SESTINI

A new layout has marked the reopening of the Galleria dell’Accademia in recent weeks: from the Gipsoteca to the Sala del Colosso, from the Sale Bizantine to the Dipartimento degli Strumenti Musicali.

Six hundred works have found a new location in the museum with the largest number of Michelangelo’s sculptures in the world, in particular the ones placed along a path that accompanies the visitor to Michelangelo’s “David”. Work will continue in the coming months to make the vast Florentine collection of masterpieces of painting, sculpture and musical instruments even more attractive.

PH © ANTONIO QUATTRONE

Galleria dell’Accademia. Via Ricasoli, 58/60 www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it

FROM GALILEO TOWARDS THE MODERN SCIENCE

Don’t miss a visit to the Museo Galileo, an extraordinary collection of scientific instruments collected over nearly three centuries by the Medici and Lorraine families, including the only original telescopes by Galileo Galilei in the world. This is a precious testimony to the progressive improvement of observation and measurement instruments that favoured the enormous advancement of scientific knowledge in the 16th and 17th centuries, a decisive contribution to the affirmation of modern science.

Museo Galileo Piazza dei Giudici, 1. www.museogalileo.it

THE SACRED LIGHT OF PAINTING ▲

PH © SABINA BERNACCHINI

In the famous museum dedicated to the great painter and Dominican friar Beato Angelico, a room houses the world’s most important collection of works on wood by the founder of the early Florentine Renaissance: 16 works are housed in the new “Sala del Beato Angelico”, which has been completely refurbished to offer the public works with a clear and refined design that touches on peaks of pictorial delicacy and transparency.

Sala del Beato Angelico Museo di San Marco. Piazza San Marco, 3 www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO ▼ PITTI IMMAGINE IN FLORENCE,

TOGETHER AGAIN

PHOTOS © ANTONIO VISCIDO

The gates of the Fortezza da Basso and Stazione Leopolda will open once again to welcome the Florentine fairs dedicated to fashion and new trends.

Pitti Filati will kick off from 28 to 30 June at the Stazione Leopolda. At the same time, Pitti Uomo and Pitti Bimbo will be held at the Fortezza da Basso from 30th June to 2nd July. Finally, Pitti Fragranze will be held from 17 to 19 September at the Stazione Leopolda.

Pitti Filati, 28-30 June Pitti Uomo, 30 June-2 July Pitti Bimbo, 30 June-2 July Fortezza da Basso – Stazione Leopolda. www.pittimmagine.com

▲ IVORY MASTERPIECES

Rethinking the exhibition itinerary, improving conservation methods and enhancing the works on display: this was the aim of the complete renovation of the Sala degli Avori in the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, which alone covers a time span of fifteen centuries, from rare Etruscan and Roman objects to 19th century artefacts. This is undoubtedly a collection that in terms of the abundance and prestige can be considered in line with some of the great European museums, such as the South Kensington Museum in London and the Musée de Cluny in Paris.

Sala degli Avori. Museo Nazionale del Bargello.

Via del Proconsolo, 4. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it

PH © THE HENRY MOORE FOUNDATION ARCHIVE

HENRY MOORE RETURNS IN FLORENCE

Almost 50 years after the great exhibition at Forte di Belvedere, a retrospective dedicated to Henry Moore, master of English sculpture and undisputed protagonist of 20th century art, is back at the Museo del Novecento. A great sculptor, a great artist, but also a “lover of Tuscany”, of its materials and forms. An exhibition that shows through his graphic production how decisive the observation of nature was in his life, not only as a preparatory drawing for the sculptor, but also as a poetic exercise in precision.

Henry Moore. Il disegno dello scultore. Until 18 July 2021 www.museonovecento.it.

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2021 EVENTS IN ITALY

JUNE 5-7/6 | Milan | MIDO Milano Show. Digital edition. www.mido.com 10-13/6 | Milan | MIMO Milano Monza Motor Show. www.milanomonza.com 16-19/6 | Brescia-Viareggio-Rome-BolognaBrescia | Mille Miglia 2021 (39th edition). www.1000miglia.it 18-22/6 | Milan | Milano Moda Uomo. www.milanomodauomo.it 19/6-4/9 | Verona | Arena di Verona 98th Opera Festival. www.arena.it 25/6-11/7 | Spoleto (Umbria) | Festival of Two Worlds. www.festivaldispoleto.com 30/6-2/7 | Pitti Uomo and PItti Bimbo | Fortezza da Basso (Florence). uomo.pittimmagine.com - bimbo.pittimmagine.com JULY 9-18/7 | Perugia | Umbria Jazz. www.umbriajazz.it 2/7 | Siena | Palio. www.ilpalio.org 17/7 | Venice | Festa del Redentore. venice.whereitalia.com AUGUST 16/8 | Siena | Palio dell’Assunta. www.ilpalio.org 28/8 | Salento area (Puglia) | La Notte della Taranta. www.lanottedellataranta.it SEPTEMBER 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org 4-17/9 | Venice | The Venice Glass Week. www.theveniceglassweek.com 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com 5-10/9 | Milan | Salone del Mobile.Milano SPECIAL EVENT 2021 and Fuorisalone www.salonemilano.it + Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1.

Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. www.orticola.org 17-19/9 | Pitti Fragranze | Stazione Leopolda (Florence). fragranze.pittimmagine.com 18-20/9 | Milan | HOMI Fashion & Jewels. www.homifashionjewels.com

Find the next year calendar on www.whereitalia.com

18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. www.runromethemarathon.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Mipel. mipel.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Micam. milano.themicam.com 19-21/9 | Milan | The One Milano. www.theonemilano.com 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.cameramoda.it 22-24/9 | Milan | Lineapelle. www.lineapelle-fair.

OCTOBER 2-10/10 | Milan | Milano Wine Week. www.milanowineweek.com 7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | International Alba White Truffle Fair. www.fieradeltartufo.org 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. www.routesonline.com 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. www.eurochocolate.com 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). www.vinitaly.com NOVEMBER 5-7/11 | Turin | Artissima 28th edition. www.artissima.art 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | Merano Wine Festival. www.meranwinefestival.com 17-21/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano. bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. www.milanomusicweek.it 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. venice.whereitalia.com 25-28/11 | Milan | EICMA International Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition. www.eicma.it End of November | Venice | Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera Season. www. teatrolafenice.it DECEMBER 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of the Opera Season: "Machbeth" by Giuseppe Verdi (conductor: Riccardo Chailly). www.teatroallascala.org

Dante 2021 Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of beauty and warm hospitality.

To commemorate the 700th anniversary of his death, a full calendar of initiatives has been created involving the three cities associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona and Florence) in the coming months, which will continue until Sunday 12 September 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti will climb onto the podium for a concert in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a performance that will also be repeated in Florence and Verona. The programme of events will reach its culmination with the inauguration of the Museum of the Italian Language at Santa Maria Novella.

Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European and world literature and represents an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, which for centuries has been considered the greatest work written in the Italian language and one of the masterpieces of world literature, describes a journey into the afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and suffering of the damned, the punishments to which they are subjected and the glories they have earned. A journey into history and mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and eternal feelings.

The main sites in Florence that will host the events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the University of Florence, the Accademia della Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di Dante Museum. www.700dantefirenze.it

This image by press photographer Massimo Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna. w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 17

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Tuscany, nature and art If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so.

Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need.

For more details ask your concierge.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

18 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

I

f you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and kilometres of coastline for bathers.

CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany.

About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient 16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can

cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres.

The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli.

Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Tuscany’s soft rolling hills

PHOTO © SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric.

NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano.

The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops,

is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives.

Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area southeast of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments.

These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and culinary festivals.

TUSCANY BIKING Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Fiesole, Roman Theatre

Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world.

With a brief trip by coach from Florence you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper.

And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th/14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time.

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PHOTO © MURATARTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Pisa, Tuscany

on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour.

Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.

TUSCANY FROM ABOVE It may be difficult to visit all the main places of interest in Tuscany if you have little time available. If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic tour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a company recognised 20 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes (ww.balloonintuscany.com).

Various launch points – located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. The slow movement of the hot-air balloon makes Balloon in Tuscany tours ideal for photography lovers, especially in the early light of dawn, when old castles, Renaissance Tuscan villas, ancient towns, towers, water courses and vineyards are tinges with countless delicate shades.

Thanks to the different sizes of the baskets, the hot-air balloons can host from 4 to 10 passengers, but they are also available for romantic flights for couples, perhaps to

PHOTO © MURATARTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

LUGANO MENDRISIO

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA Ponte Vecchio, Florence

ALESSANDRIA

ORINO

T

MILANO

celebrate an important event surrounded by a unique atmosphere.

THE BEACHES Your bathing costume and beach towel are probably not the first things you think of putting in your suitcase if you are about to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the summer you might feel the desire to seek a little refreshment at one of the many beaches dotted along the Tuscan coastline.

Although the Medici city is deep inland, there are in fact various beaches that can be easily reached both by car and by train.

The closest, the preferred destination of chic Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western Tuscany, with its long well equipped beaches, dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for nature lovers with its free beaches; here the water is shallow and transparent and the sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the

other hand, is known as “the pearl of the Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking landscapes, characterised by sheer cliffs, coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach

FERRARA

PIACENZA

GENOVA

MAR LIGURE

VENTIMIGLIA

by train directly from Florence, the beach at Quercianella, again in the province of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the Mediterranean maquis and perfect for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts.

FORTE DEI MARMI

BOLOGNA LUCCA

PISA

THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

MAR ADRIATICO RIMINI

FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO

LIVORNO

AN

SIENA PERUGIA

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Unique Italian Landscape The variety and beauty of its “landscape” is what makes Italy unique. This term is not always easily translatable but relates to the environment and the many ways in which man has transformed it, during its multifaceted history. The result is a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

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The Italian ‘Lake district’

Over the past few years, due to the influx of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water and the diversity of the countryside make the area a real outdoor recreation ground.

Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and DOP olive oil.

Mantua, the city of the Gonzagas

Though less well-known than Venice or Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated in Northern Italy on the banks of the River Mincio, is packed with art treasures.

Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Lombard city experienced its maximum period of splendour during the Renaissance, when its most famous masterpieces were executed. A renowned patron of the arts, Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio

Bologna, the university of Italy

Built in 1088, most historians agree that the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world. Thanks to the continuous turnover of students from all over the world, from medieval times to the present day, this university has made Bologna a vibrant city from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè Carducci, one of the most important Italian poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which I cannot regret, but I love it more because it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the historic centre with its porticoes and towers, streets and markets, and main square with the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly surroundings are also breathtaking.

Portofino, home to the ‘piazzetta’ and mysterious villas

With its narrow streets leading down to the sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olives groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence.

Tuscan

times, this beautiful coastal village has been a highly sought-after holiday destination.

And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino is a reference point for international tourism.

Although its hotels are astronomically priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are many anecdotes about the town which was used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after the tomb was opened and his villa became a site of sinister, inexplicable happenings…

Tuscany, the Italy that everyone dreams about

There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent works of Michelangelo and his marble statues.

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There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square.

There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique throughout the world. Ultimately, there are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians and foreigners. There are gently rolling hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding streets and stone houses scattered around the countryside. The Tuscan experience is bound to win over your heart. However, if you haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof!

Ah, the wonders of Tuscany!

northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts are located. The summer getaway for the rich and famous including financiers, big names in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to defend the shipment of the precious marble quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, thus making it an important crossroads for trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury shopping.

Forte dei Marmi: the sea of Tuscany

“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic and neglected. People are friendly and ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee

In addition to being the birthplace of a queen (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of

Naples and then…

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Portofino

Matera

are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee for yourself, and then purchasing another one for someone else who doesn’t have the money to pay for it.

Naples is the ideal starting point to explore the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the world.

Matera, the hidden pearl of the South

When it became the European capital of culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark ages, and is one of the most intriguing places in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the other, they overhang a gorge to create an incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist track, Matera has often been used as a film set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Passion of Christ’.

The Kingdom of Baroque

Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns.

Protected by UNESCO, and located in southeastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your heart and leave you awestruck. Although almost all of these towns existed during medieval times, they were razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693.

However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle of beauty: architecture, urban planning and the ornamentation of buildings constitute the crowning achievement of one of the last periods of the flourishing Baroque movement in Europe. An absolute marvel!

STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY originally covered the Colosseum. They were ‘recycled’ to build several historic Roman buildings including the Basilica of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.

Florence

Venice

Venice

With canals in the place of streets, and boats instead of cars, Venice, the city of a thousand bridges, spectacular facades, and breathtaking views, offers a dreamlike vision. This romantic city par excellence, has a wealth of historic and artistic treasures that would be difficult to find in any country other than Italy.

To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze wander over the lagoon.

How can one describe a city which originated in the Renaissance in just a few words? It’s impossible! The only solution is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It is really no surprise that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since there is not one centimeter that is not worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that you make time to lose yourself amidst its art and architecture, its history and its landscapes. There’s just one thing that you need to remember: this is the place where Stendhal experienced what was later to become known as the Stendhal syndrome…

Rome

Fifteen square kilometers and twentyfive-thousand attractions: Rome’s historic centre has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely photographed monument in the world, the Colosseum is considered one of the 7 wonders of the modern world.

The memory of its performances – gladiators, wild animals and naval battles – re-enacted in the arena have always fueled the fantasy of history and film buffs. However, everyone is aware of what happened to the 100,000 cubic metres of shining white marble that

Rome

Florence

Turin

A Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes which house shops and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

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[ W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A]

Dream experiences Whether it’s discovering the beauties of the city or tasting a local specialty, Where® brings you several unmissable experiences. Check our insider tips to take part of special cooking classes online or to help you plan your next visit.

Book them on www.welcometoitalia.com ONLINE

HOW TO MAKE THE ITALIAN STYLE BRUSCHETTA

THIS MONTH IN ITALY PREPARE THE ORIGINAL MILAN STYLE RISOTTO

Enjoy the cooking lesson comfortably from your home. Let’s take the ingredients and follows your personal chef Gabriele: he will help you step by step during the whole experience.

CLICK & BUY

ONLINE

The expert chef Gabriele, from its farmhouse in the heart of Tuscany, will be your personal guide during the preparation of the Bruschetta, the famous Italian starter, as the tradition wants.

CLICK & BUY

THE ORIGINAL FLORENCE WALK. A PRIVATE TOUR

If you have time for just one tour in Florence, this is it: experience Florence’s vibrant history while visiting all of the city’s highlights plus must-see monuments and churches.

LIVE LASAGNE COOKING CLASS WITH ITALIAN CHEF AT HOME

Gabriele, well-famous chef, will teach you how to prepare a delicious Italian lasagna with Bolognese sauce directly at your home.

CLICK & BUY

ONLINE

CLICK & BUY

THE ORIGINAL DAVID AT THE ACCADEMIA. A PRIVATE TOUR

Discover the interesting history of the “David” by Michelangelo, a fascinating genius, a tormented poet and one of the most talented masters of the Renaissance.

A must-see masterpiece in Florence.

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MASTERPIECES OF THE UFFIZI GALLERY. A PRIVATE TOUR

Let an expert guide unveil the beauty of the world’s best known paintings and sculptures. The tour covers all the major rooms and includes the skip-the-line entrance and pre-reserved tickets.

CLICK & BUY

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LIVE WINE TASTING WITH ITALIAN SOMMELIER AT HOME

An expert winer will share his knowledge with you. Take the sparkling wine bottles and listen to the wise instruction of a sommelier with more than 20 years in this sector: you’ll experience an Italian Prosecco wine tasting directly at your home!

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ONLINE

Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences.

www.welcometoitalia.com

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SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

On a silver platter At Brandimarte, the historic Florentine silverware brand, you can purchase engravings, glasses, decanters, bracelets, rings, necklaces, pendants and much more besides, all strictly made in Italy. By Chiara Zaccarelli

I

n the heart of the historic centre of Florence, there is a special boutique, a genuinely exciting place to tour which aims to re-educate you on the use of silver in everyday life, breaking the habit of seeing the silver item as a luxury piece to only be exhibited on special occasions. This is the workshop of Brandimarte, a company that was established in Florence in 1955 and that was run by the founder’s grandchildren, Stefano and Giada Guscelli. Since 2017 the brand is owned by Bianca Guscelli, Stefano’s daughter.

Brandimarte is distinguished for the hand crafting and sale of silverware for the table and 925 sterling silver jewellery, in addition to its collection of historical silver 28 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

medals. The collections of jewels, exclusively made in Italy, created by the best Florentine artisans, include bracelets, rings, necklaces, earrings and much more besides. Among the lines to be worn, standing out are the “timeless” hammered jewellery, elegant and sophisticated.

In the boutique you will also find the “Wine Collection”: decanters and tasting glasses made of 925 sterling silver. This metal, in fact, has organoleptic and antibacterial properties, is a heat conductor and enhances the aromas within drinks. >> www.brandimarte.com Via del Moro, 92/r.

T: 055 2693384. Map D3

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

The

Guidelines CLOTHING &

MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47).

SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 20. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a separate category. The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4

Anichini

CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details.

A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3

Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials.

His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open MonFri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987.

Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r.

T: 055 287931. Map E4

Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r.

T: 055 285832. Map F3

Elena Mirò An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style.

From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3

Luisaviaroma

MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury

The entire Ferragamo universe

Florentine brand that has known how to combine age-old hand crafting skills with the creativity typical of products made in Italy, today Salvatore Ferragamo represents quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition.

The Florentine boutique, which contains all the fashion house’s men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections, is located inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s historic workshop since 1938, today its headquarters and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes, stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to the banks of the River Arno. And it is precisely the wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita that hosts the Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic. This is a space whose layout recalls the studio where Salvatore Ferragamo received his customers and all its creative inspiration.

A unique opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the universe of this gifted innovator who has revolutionised the world of women’s footwear through new models, volumes and materials. www.ferragamo.com.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123.

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r.

T: 055 212995. Map E4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm.

Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r.

T: 055 287931. Map E4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r.

T: 055 9040090. Map E4 BOGGI MILANO— www.boggi.com.

Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.

Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r.

T: 055 219179. Map E3 BORSALINO— www.borsalino.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via Porta Rossa, 40/r.

T: 055 218275. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA— www.bottegaveneta.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 6n.

T: 055 284735. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com.

Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r.

T: 055 2396786. Map E4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com.

Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r.

T: 055 293811. Map E4

CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4.

Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r.

T: 055 2670157. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208.

Map E3 DIOR— www.dior.com.

Women. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r.

T: 055 2669101. Map E3 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082.

Map E4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r.

T: 055 264254. Map E3 ETRO—www.etro.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.

Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r.

T: 055 2670086. Map D3 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r.

T: 055 212305 Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30.

Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4

Outfits were paraded at the Grand Palais in Paris for the spring-summer 2021 CHANEL collection. The catwalk for the haute-couture show evoked the charm of a country wedding in the South of France where the protagonist is a very wide skirt combined with a refined bodice, both studded with handmade floral applications.

30 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

This “rockstud” metalized calfskin court shoe, with matching studs, bears the unmistakable signature of VALENTINO GARAVANI.

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r.

T: 055 219041. Map E3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r.

T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden.

Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10.

T: 055 75927010. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981.

Map E3 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r.

T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r.

T: 055 287761. Map F3 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.

Piazza della Repubblica, 43.

T: 055 290284. Map F3 MISSONI—www.misson.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r.

T: 055 2608931. Map F3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583.

Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r.

T: 055 292050. Map E3 POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r.

T: 055 288539. Map E3

Made from soft, patent leather in a column construction, this shoulder bag by GIORGIO ARMANI features an elegant and subtle embossed logo.

HOGAN—www.hogan.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r.

T: 055 2741013. Map E3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com.

Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r.

T: 055 294909. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r.

T: 055 2398688. Map E4

Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details.

STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1.

T: 055 210856. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r.

T: 055 216227. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com.

Women. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142.

Map E4

PRADA—www. prada.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r.

T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r.

T: 055 267471 Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r.

T: 055 9040100. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r.

T: 055 292123. Map E4

The iconic model of the BRUNELLO CUCINELLI sports line uses precious materials to create sophisticated combinations. The soft washed chamois upper is combined with semi-gloss calfskin details. w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 31

SHOPPING San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo TornabuoniVia dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3

FINE ART Abacus

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA See page 35.

DR. VRANJES See page 34.

Antico Setificio Fiorentino

the world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3

gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme. it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3

Marina Rinaldi

Stefano Ricci

Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o RinascentePiazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113.

Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, making production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the

Société Anonyme An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art

BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze. com. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. Map L4 The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only).

Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3

Galleria Romanelli The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.Map C4

Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù.

Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by international customers, are genuinely unique pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4

32 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

SHOPPING over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870.

Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r.

T: 055 2396039. Map D3

used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993.

Map F4

Annamaria Cammilli

Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm.

Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1

A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli. com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r.

T: 055 2608617. Map F4

Pitti Mosaici

Cassetti 1926

Papiro (Il)

Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6

Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862.

Map G6

DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items.

For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica.

T: 055 219113. Map F3

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Angela Caputi Giuggiù

COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been

In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r.

T: 055 287361. Map F5

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r.

T: 055 290208. Map E4

Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995

by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4

Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www. fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3

Officine Panerai Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions

of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2

Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044.

Map F5

Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12 w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 33

SHOPPING LEATHER Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money.

Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11.

T: 055 6505091. Off Map

Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3

Il Bisonte

Dr. Vranjes

Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r.

T: 055 215722. Map E4

Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired

by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3

PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor. it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5

La Ménagère

CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was

Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers.

1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

34 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out.

• after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief.

• the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date

when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otelloenglish-version/legislation

SHOPPING once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am.

Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600.

Map F1

Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm.

T: 055 2399527. Map D3

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

SHOES

Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini FeroniVia de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4

Aquazzura

UGG

Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance.

Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4

Salvatore Ferragamo Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com.

First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. A brightly lit space with colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the UGG 2019 campaign, in the heart of historic piazza della Repubblica. Inside, the more traditional models stands alonside new footwear. www. ugg.com. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm.

Piazza della Repubblica, 30/r. T: 055 0945430.

Map F3

STATIONERY Pineider Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and design are the distinctive features of this brand, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of precious and embossed paper to articles made of fine leather, to elegant writing instruments created in the Tuscan workshops, Pineider products have endless possibilities of personalisation. www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r.

T: 055 284656. Map E3

UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276.

Map D2

The Merchant of Venice The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r.

T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections.

The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêtà-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r.

T: 055 282485. Map D3

From California to Florence The footwear, clothing and accessories of the UGG® brand, founded in 1978 by an Australian surfer on the coast of California, which has become an icon of style thanks to its leather and reversed sheepskin boots, find space in the brand’s first Italian boutique. A brightly lit space, which has been created using a combination of wood, wrought iron and glass furnishings, with pastel colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the #UGGLIFE F/W 2019 campaign. Inside, the more traditional models stand alongside new footwear from the Classic Revolution collection, which reinterprets classicism with a contemporary touch, inspired by the vitality of San Francisco. Drawing inspiration from Classic Short II, Classic Mini II and Neumel models by the brand, the collection includes thirteen renovated models. Stylistic research with the use of new materials, decorative elements such as straps and zippers and the addition of wedges are combined with an in-depth study of comfort, reaching its peak in the new Miwo sneakers, with a gritty design and avant-garde Vibram® soles. In addition to footwear, lovers of shopping can also find a selection of outerwear and accessories. www.ugg.com

w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 35

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA

The Mall Sanremo

?

MAR LIGURE

VENTIMIGLIA

FORTE DEI MARMI

FERRARA

MAR

BOLOGNA ?

LUCCA

PISA

Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

SIENA

?

Valdichiana Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side.

• WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round.

With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm.

• WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station.

36 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes retail price. from Florence.

Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the TIRRENO hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the designed to involve the whole family.

“Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door China of The Bicester Village Shopping minivan service from centrally located hotels in Collection® by Value Retail: a place where Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge.

SARDEGNA hospitality makes the shopping experience • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours from with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm.

Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Milan, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway Chloé (June 2018 Opening). and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, with a Virtual Shopping Service allowing is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to you to shop directly via WhatsApp, phone savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s or email. Over 120 boutiques of the world’s shopping. www.themall.it leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up to 70% off ).

VALDICHIANA VILLAGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping, visit one of its restaurants to shopping experience characterised by quality indulge in delicious homemade pasta with and convenience. It has several facilities and fresh Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

best local food and wines are on offer.

Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle.

• WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour and many others.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it

Valdichiana Village

Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets

The Mall Firenze

Fidenza Village

Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 37

PHOTO © FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM

DINING

One restaurant, three souls High-quality ingredients from small Tuscan farms and an elegant, welcoming environment make Foody Farm the ideal place for an appetising break at any time of day. By Giulia Minero

D

on’t let yourself be deceived by the antique ceilings or the vintage tables, because Foody Farm’s proposals could not be more innovative. This restaurant, a few yards from the Ponte Vecchio, with its modern furnishings, its petrol blue coloured velvet seats, mosaics and wrought iron details, makes the rediscovery of Tuscan raw materials, combined to bring innovative recipes to life, its distinctive feature. Then the absence of a traditional dining approach envisaging hors d’oeuvres, first and main courses, makes the restaurant’s proposals dynamic and highly personalisable. The specialities range from street food to tartares, as well as salads, home-made pasta, cheeses and meats, with a selection of vegetarian offers, all based on 38 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

local ingredients from carefully selected small Tuscan farms. Inside the restaurant three souls coexist, which are perfect to respond to guests’ requirements at any time of day. BreakFarm, for example, is available every day from 7am to 10.30am and envisages an innovative format based on the international buffet breakfast with sweet and savoury food, while Farmology reinterprets the classic concept of aperitifs or after dinner drinks proposing cocktails of balanced ingredients mixed in glass, then served in bottles at temperatures that differ according to the preparation. >> Lungarno Corsini, 2A T: 055 242327. Map E4 www.foodyfarm.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

TUSCAN CUISINE Benedicta

EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r.

T:055 2645429. Map D2

Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it.

Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5

Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes.

Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427.

Map E5

store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r.

T: 055 0750600. Map F1

from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23.

T: 055 2345957. Map G6

Latini (Il)

Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r.

T: 055 234 0804. Map L4

Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3

Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13thcentury Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r.

T: 055 9067188. Map H3

Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come

L’Ortone

Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione.

Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3

Opera Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera

Cibrèo Ristorante

PH © OKUNIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

In Florence and in the area near the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo.com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3

Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita.

Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com.

Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map

IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it.

Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4

La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

Genuine food for all tastes at the Central Market

Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh ADVERTORIAL pasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas,

fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains.

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together.

Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses.

Santa Elisabetta Piazza Santa Elisabetta, 3. T: 055 27370 www.ristorantesantaelisabetta.it In the heart of the historical centre of Florence, a unique location, the Byzantine Pagliazza Tower: built around 541-544 AD, today it is part of the register of historical Florentine buildings. Santa Elisabetta is on the first floor of the tower, with a particular circular shape, in an intimate atmosphere that only houses seven tables. Its menu respects nature and the seasons.

The Chef chooses to experiment with minimalism, on dishes with a single product that is the protagonist and two or three others that act as a support. Each dish is characterized by the contrasts between acidity and sweetness, cooked and raw, sapidity and lightness.

Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or

40 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potatobased one is unmissable) or à la carte.

La Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays around the tones of green and pistachio and can welcome up t o 35 diners indoors.

La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it

Il Palagio Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass.

Borgo San Jacopo Ribollita calssica..e croccante

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bottega del Buon Caffè

Ora d ’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom.

We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.

DINING restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions.

In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2

Osteria Badalì Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it.

Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6

Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com.

Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3

Tuscani 3 (I) If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.

T: 055 285356. Map F4

Zeb

lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com.

Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3

Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r.

T: 055 214179. Map D3

Buca Poldo A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578.

Map F4

Buca San Giovanni Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it.

Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F4

Fiaschetteria Nuvoli

Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2.

T: 055 2342864. Map H6

Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r.

T: 055 239 6616. Map F2

CANTINE

PIZZA

Antica Mescita San Niccolò

Pizza Man

Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6

Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with

Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does glutenfree and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r.

T: 055 2480200. Map H4

Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania.

The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it.

Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3

Your home restaurant

Dedicated to those who want to experience the real regional culinary tradition, the typical products of the territory and recipes handed down through the generations of Italian families. The “Cesarine” network - spread out over 140 Italian cities with over 1000 amateur chefs - has become established over recent years with this very aim: to offer a complete gastronomic experience by opening up the doors of home with lunches and dinners, personalised show cooking, cooking competitions, visits to markets or local producers or catering in exclusive locations. Having lunch with an Italian family, with dishes prepared following the typical traditions of the local cuisine, tasting the wines of the territory, is a truly unique experience!

And from this year live cooking courses and virtual appointments are available on the cesarine.com website, in both Italian and English, so you can continue to learn family recipes and all the secrets of traditional cuisine. www.cesarine.com

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DINING

Florentine food terms PAPPA COL POMODORO On the face of it this is just another variant of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is.

Everyone loves this tasty, genuine dish, including the kids. So much so there’s even a popular children’s song all about it.

RIBOLLITA Another delicious country dish typical of Florence and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. The name derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before.

Buca Mario

’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli

CIBREO A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even though presented like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully - to export it to France and it seems she was so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a number of times.

LAMPREDOTTO This is Florentine street food par excellence.

But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs.

Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known CANTUCCI as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and This is one of the best-known cake recipes most commonly served in a panino soaked in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond in the broth or topped with the local parsleybiscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of based green sauce. Historically a poor man’s baked dough while still hot. The dough is made dish, it is still very popular in Florence today with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring trade with their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory in any bakery or local foods shop. glass of wine.

42 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

Ribollita

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA This is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. The succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight: an average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo.

SCHIACCIATA This simple focaccia baked in a wood oven and dressed with olive oil and salt is a great favourite with Florentines, who eat it on its own or stuffed with salumi and cheeses, either as a quick lunch or substantial snack. Again, like many traditional Florentine recipes, it is based on a horror of wasting any left over bread dough. In Florence you’ll find it at any baker’s, but of course everyone has their own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp and salty, or made with ancient grains.

Just try it to decide which is your favourite!

DINING

Historic cellars for foodies Florence’s cantine, where in the past the well to do kept their wine, salumi and meats, haven’t lost their vocation as custodians of fine taste. The majority, with dining rooms located beneath street level, are still called “buca”, although some have become proper restaurants, with menus (and prices) more suited to international visitors, while others still offer simple, authentic Florentine home cooking.

(C.Z.)

classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. www.bucamario.com Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r T: 055 214179.

Buca Poldo - A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines.

Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo.com Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/R. T: 055.239.6578.

Buca Lapi Antica Mescita San Niccolò - Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. www.osteriasanniccolo.it Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836.

Buca San Giovanni Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612

Buca San Giovanni

Fiaschetteria Nuvoli - Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs.

Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616.

Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo - A few yards from Ponte Vecchio, in an old goldsmith’s workshop inside the walls of a 13th century palace, is the restaurant Buca dell’Orafo. Traditional Tuscan dishes and menus that vary depending on the season testify to the quality of the ingredients.

Don’t miss the ribollita, the maltagliati (flat, irregular offcuts of pasta), autumn mushrooms and taglierini with fresh spring peas. www.bucadellorafo.com Via dei Girolami, 28/r. T: 055 213619.

Buca Lapi - Buca Lapi is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes.

Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. The bill won’t be particularly easy on the pocket, especially if you go for the steak, but as we know quality doesn’t come cheap. www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768.

Buca Mario - For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in

Buca Poldo

Buca dell’Orafo

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TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE Abbazia Novecella

A thousand shades of orange Latest trend or age-old recipe?

Loved, criticised and the object of debate among experts, Orange Wines are wines from the ancient tradition, re-evaluated through history as superior products.

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

Gravner 44 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

TASTING

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation.

Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

A

s early as 5000/6000 years ago in the Caucasus (Georgia), Orange Wines were produced in buried amphorae. This technique was also used in the past in Europe, but after the two world wars it was completely forgotten. It was only at the start of the 1990s when a small group of experienced winemakers from Friuli revived it by experimenting with the ancient technique combined with modern scientific know-how, thus achieving excellent production levels.

Today there are wine-growers all over the world devoted to this outstanding product.

control, to allow a “spontaneous” fermentation; a reference to ethics, ecology and nature is therefore very much present.

Once the alcoholic fermentation is concluded, the winemakers proceed with the subsequent passage of ageing, which takes place, at their discretion, in glass, steel, amphora, cement or wood.

Depending on the white grape variety used, the period for which the skins are retained and the ageing method adopted, wines are obtained with colour tones ranging from ancient gold to topaz, from orange to amber; the hues can be bright, lively and intense, sometimes even with a certain opalescence, because they are not normally clarified and filtered and are, in any case, also virtually sulphite-free.

A HARMONY OF PERFUMES AND AROMAS TO DISCOVER If this is your first time tasting a macerated white wine, your nose and palate will be surprised by the flavours and aromas. We are not referring to the “skin-contact wines” of 20 years ago, which perhaps had a few defects due to incorrect choices in the vineyard or the lack of hygiene standards in the wine cellar; we are referring to more intense, mature, plant-based and balsamic scents, such as aromas of resin, Mediterranean maquis, pine and eucalyptus.

More enveloping, fuller flavours, with lively tannins (which make the mouth dry and rough) and mineral salts more present, which as a whole increase the body of the wine.

But beware, do not allow yourself to be deceived by your habits: if you do not “find” certain habitual signs and aromas, you must not judge these wines negatively solely because they diverge from traditional tastes.

What can you expect then? On the nose you will

detect notes of incense, propolis, smoke, tobacco, coffee, nougat, caramel. While for the family of fruity aromas we must imagine a mature, dehydrated, candied, baked fruit, preserved in alcohol (such as baked apple, candied lemon, dry fruit, cherry or plum preserved in alcohol)… and if we are referring to an excellent wine, there will be many other perfumes and aromas to discover.

As regards the fourth taste examination, the aftertaste, we can generally define this as long and persistent, with all the perceived aromas.

There is no real typical aftertaste of Orange wines, but only qualities that distinguish a “well made” product from one “made less well” and mean you are tasting a harmonious, persistent and elegant wine.

FROM FRIULI TO CONQUER THE WORLD The pioneer of the rebirth of macerated wines is an Italian producer, Joško Gravner. In the late 1990s he went against convention, overturning all the concepts of winemaking of that time.

During a stay in California, he encountered the presence of uniform, characterless wines on the market. He therefore decided to change direction and take a trip to the cradle of wine, Georgia. There he found the right inspiration and, returning to his winemaking estate in Gorizia (in Friuli), he began experimenting with vines, amphorae and ancient methods. This combination of ancient practices and modern experimentation made him famous all over the world. He was then joined by a close circle of local winemaking friends, such as Radikon, Maule and others.

A short documentary tells the story of Orange Wines since 1997, explaining in detail the origins of that wave that has now spread all over the world: “Skin Contact: Development of an Orange Taste”.

Gravner

HOW DOES VINIFICATION TAKE PLACE AND WITH WHAT DIFFERENCES? The difference between the various methods of production determines the more or less intense “orange” colour. In short, white wine is vinified as though it were red wine: so the grapes are not pressed and separated immediately after the harvest, but rather the components of the juice, skin and berries are allowed to macerate together for a variable period, from one day up to a few months. The maceration of the skins has the effect of extracting those substances that are responsible for the tactile taste sensation and coloration of the wine.

Fermentation usually takes place thanks to indigenous yeasts and without temperature w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 45

TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE

AUTHOR'S TIPS

Here is a selection of excellent macerated wines from the North to the South of Italy, which have maceration on the skins as the thread running through them, but with very variable times and methods, which may be differentiated by ageing in steel, glass, amphora, cement or wood.

Alto-Adige

Angiolino Maule

Abbazia di Novacella “Hora” Grape variety: Sylvaner 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.abbaziadinovecella.it

Sardinia

Dettori “Dettori bianco” Grape variety: Vernaccia 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.tenutedettori.it

Sicily

Frank Cornelissen “Munjebel bianco“ Grape variety: Grecanico Dorato 50%, Carricante 50% Maceration on skins: for 4 days Ageing: 18 months in fibreglass tanks www.frankcornelissen.it

Friuli-Venezia Giulia • Gravner “Ribolla Gialla Anfora” Grape variety: Ribolla Gialla 100% Maceration on skins: long maceration in buried Georgian amphorae Ageing: 5 months in amphora, then 6 years in large oak casks www.gravner.it

46 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

Damijan Podversic

TASTING • Damijan Podversic “Nekaj” Grape variety: Nekaj 100% Maceration on skins: for 60-90 days Ageing: 3 years in large casks, then 1 year in the bottle www.damijanpodversic.it • Skerk Grape variety: Vitovska 100% Maceration on skins: on average, 10 days in wooden vats Ageing: 12 months in small wooden vats, then 12 months in 50 hl wooden casks www.skerk.com

Veneto

Angiolino Maule “Pico” Grape variety: Garganega 100% Maceration: 2-3 days Ageing: 12 months in large 15 hl casks www.angiolinomaule.com

Skerk

Tre Monti

EmiliaRomagna Tre Monti “Vitalba” Grape variety: Albana 100% Maceration: 95 days Ageing: 10 months in Georgian amphorae (kvevri) www.tremonti.it

Lazio

Don Chisciotte Grape variety: Fiano 100% Maceration: 8-15 days Ageing: 8 months in steel www.ildonchisciotte.net

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

Cheers to the new Paszkowski Since 1846, quality and tradition have been combined at the Caffè Concerto Paszkovski, an unmissable destination for breakfast, a snack or an aperitif with an authentically Florentine spirit. By Giulia Minero

F

irst inaugurated with the name Caffè Centrale, given its position in the heart of Piazza della Repubblica, the Caffè Concerto Paszkovski took on its current identity in 1903, when the Società Toscana C. Paszkowski per la Fabbricazione e la Vendita di Birra purchased it, to transform it into a café concerto and then a literary café. From that moment on, the venue welcomed high-profile figures of the calibre of D’Annunzio, Montale, Saba and Pratolini. A further demonstration of its historical value arrived in 1991, when it became one of the Locali Storici d’Italia. Today, in its sophisticated rooms, which have recently undergone a conservative restoration, it hosts a Café with an attached tea room, a cocktail bar and a restaurant. The first, today, as yesterday, 48 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

is the ideal place to treat yourself to a coffee prepared respecting the best Italian tradition, accompanied by a selection of home-made sweet and savoury pastry delights. The ritual of the aperitif takes place every day in the cocktail bar, with drinks ranging from the great classics to signature cocktails, together with a selection of beers. The classic dishes of the tradition and the proposals that have contributed to the history of the café, with the addition of contemporary offerings, become the protagonists of the Restaurant under the skilful guidance of chef Fabio Barbaglini. Here particular attention is reserved for the selecting of high-quality raw materials, prepared with cooking processes and methods that bring out their flavour without altering their properties.

>> Piazza della Repubblica, 35/R T: 055 210236. Map F3. caffepaszkowski.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

APERITIVI Chiaroscuro Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Florentines today are attracted by the original and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it.

Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3

Easy living Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the riverbed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi.

T: 055 2341112. Map I6

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com.

Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4

(more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r.

T: 055 286258. Map F5

Three Sixty From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www.grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2

BRUNCH Ditta Artigianale Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce

district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r.

(Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5

Foody Farm “The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original and genuine light lunch, with the option of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r.

T: 055 242327. Map H5

Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4

Procacci This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become

Il Locale Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo.

Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it.

Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r.

T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738.

Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4

Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4

Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4

Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www.westinflorence.com.

Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3

Signorvino

Solve the mystery and save the city of Florence!

“The Medici Game. Murder at Pitti Palace”, is the first videogame devoted to the famous grand ducal dynasty. Specially created for the Uffizi Galleries, the game is structured as an investigative adventure where the player, in the guise of young scholar Caterina, moves through the richly furnished rooms of the palace, tackling dangerous adversaries and solving countless riddles concealed within the masterpieces of its museums, while the secrets of the legendary family are revealed before her eyes. The plot is dotted with historical-artistic insights into the protagonists of the events of the Medici, while the locations have been faithfully reconstructed based on a meticulous photographic campaign intended to give the players every detail of the fascinating aura of the grand ducal palace and the Boboli Gardens. Download from Google Play and AppStore (€2.29) 7 languages (Italian, English, Spanish, Russian, Portuguese, Chinese and Japanese). www.themedicigame.com

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ENTERTAINMENT an institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3

Teatro Verdi

Teatro del Sale

Teatro Goldoni

Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com.

Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district).

T: 055 2001492. Map I3

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Comunale The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back to the second half of the 19th century. www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16.

T: 055 27791. Map B2

The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany is located in Florence, in the historic district of Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance.

Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99.

T: 055 212320. Map H4 Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre.

Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6

Teatro del Maggio The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1.

Off Map

Stazione Leopolda Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway station: it was decommissioned, and today has become a sought-after venue for meetings, conferences and various events. A versatile, multifunctional space, it has its name associated with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of the event that launched the career of Florentine

politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1

Visarno Arena It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Off Map

WELLNESS Bené SPA This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www.villacora. it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Off Map

Firenze Number Nine This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.”

A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. Very well known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www.firenzenumbernine.com.

Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3

Four Seasons SPA A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments for teens and children also available. The supermodern fitness centre is located in the quiet of the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com.

Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1

Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside guests as the beauty centre annex every day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4

Il Villino SPA

THE MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it

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A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, luxury materials, and hand-made decorations

by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map

ENTERTAINMENT

SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY

Bagni San Filippo

Bagni San Filippo A small town not far from the slopes of Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its sulphur waters, which were used by the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous deposits that form the small, spectacular hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco.

Unlike the well-being and spa treatment centre, access to this area is free of charge.

Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena).

PHOTOS ©SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bagno Vignoni This tiny ancient stone village has one unique and unforgettable characteristic: at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not for bathing) where the spar waters are collected, gushing out at a temperature of 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative steam during the cold months.

Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it.

Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150.

Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae.

Bagno Vignoni

A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions.

(E.P.)

www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena).

T: 0577 889001.

Castello di Velona An 11th-century fortress transformed into a residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino.

The indoor and outdoor swimming pools (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) use water from a nearby thermal spring originating on Mount Amiata.

Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002.

Grotta Giusti The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave that winds its way among stalactites and stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear water, the temperatures of which vary from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the

metabolism of the blood vessels.

Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com.

Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771.

San Casciano dei Bagni Classified among the “Most Beautiful Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on a hill immersed in the Siena countryside.

The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo are ancient washtubs where it is possible to bathe freely, while there are indoor and outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by a magical garden with views of Mount Amiata.

Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com.

Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena). T: 0578 57241.

Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Among the most beautiful free thermal baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino are small natural pools supplied by small waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable environment. Next to them, the Terme di Saturnia complex has spring water pools, a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort.

Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-delmulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it.

Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111.

Terme di Petriolo The thermal baths are sited on a natural spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the course of the River Farma. The waters, rich in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena).

Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059.

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Amid faith, art and history Universally recognised as one of the locations symbolising the city, consecrated in 1059 in honour of its patron, Saint John, the Baptistery of San Giovanni is one of the oldest places of worship in Florence. By Giulia Minero

L

ocated opposite the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery owes part of its renown to its particular octagonal plan structure - typical of the baptisteries of antiquity - surmounted by a pyramidal dome consisting of eight segments, the richly decorated interior of which bears the signatures of great Renaissance artists of the calibre of Cimabue and Coppo di Marcovaldo.

Among the masterpieces contained in it, in addition to the funerary monument in memory of the “Antipope” John XXIII created

by Michelozzo and Donatello, the precious gilded mosaics of the dome representing the Angelic Hierarchies and Universal Judgement stand out, dominated by the great figure of Christ the Judge.

52 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

The exterior of the Baptistery, on the other hand, entirely covered in slabs of white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, is famous for its three bronze doors, of immense historical and artistic value. The South Door, by Andrea Pisano, dating back to 1330, illustrates the life of Saint John the Baptist in 28 inlaid panels, the North Door,

by Lorenzo Ghiberti, imagines the life and passion of Christ through 20 panels, and with a further eight, the four evangelists and four “fathers of the church”, while the East Door, located opposite the Cathedral and known by the epithet conferred on it by Michelangelo, of “Porta del Paradiso” (Gate of Paradise), consists of ten gilded panels representing scenes from the Old Testament.

Gate of Paradise, detail.

>> Battistero di San Giovanni Piazza San Giovanni. Map F2 www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it

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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

Duomo and Cupola

There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5

Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century.

It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof.

The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic squarebased bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3

Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the HabsburgLorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located on the left bank of the river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6

Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the treelined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”. Map I7

San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. www. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34.

T: 055 234 2731. Off Map

Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798.

Map F1

PH © LUCY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Ponte Vecchio

Piazzale Michelangelo

Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4

Palazzo Vecchio Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties

A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today.

Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”.

The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16.

T: 055 2466105. Map H4

FIRENZECARD

www.firenzecard.it

Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it.

Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18.

T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2

Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river.

A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30.

T: 055 210030. Map D5

San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi.

Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures

by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici 54 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free.

Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2

Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5

Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2

Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm.

Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org.

Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3

Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions.

Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7

Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings. The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open TuesSun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2

Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views.

Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308.

Map H1

Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1

Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325.

Map G4

Museo di Santa Maria Novella The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel

by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi

Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3

Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House.

At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum.

Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885.

Map E6

Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello.

Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the

| SIGHTSEEING

relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4

Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm.

Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie).

T: 055 2342427. Map G6

Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna.

The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here.

Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm.

Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1.

T: 055 2388606. Map F4

Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo.

T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3

Villa Bardini and Gardens

GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI The Gallery is famous worldwide for its outstanding collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from Middle Ages to the Modern period). The paintings from the 14th century and Renaissance period include some absolute masterpieces as the “Primavera” by Sandro Botticelli (see photo), a celebration of love, peace and prosperity. www.uffizi.it

The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelinstarred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm.

Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6 w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 55

PHOTO © SEAN XU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.

F

lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain. With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually 56 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2021

only allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre). To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the

Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted he residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind.

Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit.

The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel).

You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE

AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.

T: 055 49771.

Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it

www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers.

Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650

Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021.

www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it.

Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10.

AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) - (80 km from the centre of Florence).

Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx.

1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx.

1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it

Getting around Florence ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802.

Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes.

Can be used on buses, trams or trains.

Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70).

Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12).

7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am).

NEW A further step in the digital transformation of Florence’s public transport: today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards.

The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with S.M. Novella Station has been activated on February 2019. Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence.The entire historic centre

of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter.

Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4.

T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard.

2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard.

3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service.

4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm.

TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish.

Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 57

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Where Florence Magazine

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5 STARS Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Off Map Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Map G4 Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Map E4 Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 • Map C3 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 • Off Map Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10 • Off Map

4 STARS AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 • Map H2 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 • Off Map Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 NH Collection Firenze Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r • Map C2

Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 • Map F3 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 COUNTRY HOUSES Il Paluffo – Via Citerna, 144-Fraz. Fiano (Certaldo, Firenze) • Off Map

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