Where Milan n 103 May 2019 by Welcome Smart Network

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/MIL AN

MAY 2019

Celebrating

Leonardo da Vinci Discover an action-packed program of events

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Milan May 2019 INSIDER TIPS

the guide

24 SHOPPING

10 23

Located in a warm, welcoming space in the heart of Brera, Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s Milanese boutique presents visitors with its latest collections.

HOT DATES

46 DINING

The multi-starred Alajmo family offers a re-interpretation of pizza, the symbol of Italian cuisine par excellence at its new restaurant in Milan.

GIFT GUIDE

52 ENTERTAINMENT

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/MIL AN

MAY 2019

Celebrating

Leonardo da Vinci Discover an action-packed program of events

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Contents 6 TOP IN TOWN

22 NEW OPENINGS

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.

Keep up-to-date with the latest luxury openings in the city.

10 HOT DATES

23 GIFT GUIDE

This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions and music.

Take advantage of your stay in Milan to discover the best seasonal trends.

14 MILAN, GREENER

27 TOP BRANDS

& GREENER www.whereitalia.com/milan www.magzter.com Digital magazine store www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on twitter @WhereMilan Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan Follow us on Instagram @where_milan

All about the city’s parks, from the most classic to the newest, most futuristic, where people can meet and socialize.

18 FASHION AND

DESIGN OUTLETS Don’t miss some of Northern Italy’s best shopping destinations offering truly advantageous discounts.

Where® brings you a round-up of the world of fashion boutiques.

42-45 THE BEST OF… Stroll through the Duomo district and its surroundings, and discover Brera, one of the most picturesque areas in Milan teeming with big-name brand boutiques and artisanal manufacturers.

Watch us on YouTube

LAK OF

2 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 VIA

54 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Raphael’s Cartoon for the ‘School of Athens’ at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana is one of the focal points of Renaissance Milan. 59 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city.

» MAP PAGE 62-63 Isola Chinatown & Porta Paolo Sarpi San Siro Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

VIA PORL E

MILAN CITY GUIDE

At Ceresio7, a lounge area with a view winds between the venue’s interior spaces and two terraces with a pool... in perfect New York style!

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VIA Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! A Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. PA D V IA RE L T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 . M O in which Italy will be overflowing is the year NTI info@whereitalia.com with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/milan DE R E PIAZZALE V LARGO PADR E R. GIUL IANI NO VIA TE N NIZZA CO DESIO PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the death of Leonardo Vinci, the man who VIA V IAda PA L L ARPO I BA G Andrea Jarach A AB P O L IC N A VI A F U G any other, V IA PIAZZALE moreV I Athan represents ZItaly throughout PIAZZA GRECO (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) ISTRIA AT I Recommended by RANC PIAZZA cities including Milan, Florence the world. A Several MANAGING DIRECTOR V IA UFR CASERTA C V Andrea Jarach IA DELLA VI V IA Daniele Misrachi TORRE VIA R TA ofER special events. The full A R G and Rome will host a series A LT O N GE NIS IO VIA SLATAP E SAPublisher (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) DEI V VIA MO NT AN V IA B O IA V INI IA R D O HO program of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Where ® V IA R MANAGING EDITOR VI A I Alessandra Finzi Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the T TI PR AM PO LIN P R IN E PIAZZA (redazione@whereitalia.com) V IA PIAZZA VIA V I AMACIACHINI FARINA pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to GIO GRE USSO VA GOR V NN V IA R CONTRIBUTORS E Rperson considered IP O VI AI L the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. ON E J E N Nthe UES M Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, TAFloriana NO ARC V NO VIA VIA BO LZA VIAGiudici, SEMERI di Maio, Elisabetta HE AJoy Lacanlale, ESS While visiting why only Italy couldV haveIA Rgiven birthI LI IUN ITI R A C Italy you’ll understand GH LAPO VIA I C ISPO IA Lancini, V C I A O Fabio Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, A L V V VIA NIG IA EL TI CA V IA RU C IA FRA I creative LE LA N C E T to this GL Cman whose mind shaped cultural, V IA IR IÈ Chiara Zaccarelli NC ZU V IA M A the intellectual, social, IE VI ESC DEM VIA C R A R CO O ONT CH ON LI E Efifteenth century. Leonardo AVAlife from the ROL PIAZZA VI andG Ipolitical facets of European PIAZZA ICONOGRAPHY VI A PO M PE O A A SPOTORNO VI VIA VIAPFRATELLI BRESSAN CARBONARI A AR VIA Archivio Proedi Media, S I O contribution CL G. LE made an indelible to philosophy, nature, medicine and R A art. CU ITU STE KEP Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock VIA VI VI M LV I I L CI NO EZRZO AL O N All that now remainsVIAisS for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic E O I VIA C AL CARTOGRAPHY L V IA VA S AU UN T G V O A I A L E LLI A RO Leonardo. You’ll find themRE in of ItalyV Iyou’re visiting. If you IG City Map: ©ITOProedi Comunicazione 2019 CI O VI P I A whatever part A CÀ EOCR LL M E U C IA VIA ISO CRATE NE LARGO V IA T F.LLI G R AV I A A L NA LL VVAIA VIA Metro CERVIMap and Fast Trains Network Map NDA SERIO CA SSI U happen to find them, please share your C MIC N O AR O VIA HEL Dmitry Goloub © ProediAComunicazione 2019, PIAZZALE S IA G LE ED I SEGRINO V IA E AN I A Mario Camerini VI I M our social GEL comments, with your photo,S Son PIAZZALE PO IS I GO VIA VI LAGOSTAV I A VIA A S IA VI A IA PA D MARKETING & ADVERTISING PIAZZA Ayear, we’ V HOLOCAUST media. By the end of the d like to PO O TT RE L RE SO T B LA VIA DURANTE VIA CA ON MEMORIAL . MO SievaATCarolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, AL TA LE NTI CIMITERO NO E of Italy. G collect a gallery of the friends VIA WILDT Paola Zannoni BR RacheleL IRenna, VIA A NUMENTALE IA (advertising@whereitalia.com) PIE NZ EA IAZZALE R IANI R O GIUL R. LARGO E Happy hunting! PADR N D VIA A LU NIZZA VI A LO N IE RI AN BR

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A ES VI VIAVERTICALE ZA LI A PIAZZA ROMU A I SSI C A ST IL P GA DA GRECO O DE P LV A E TA N NO PIAZZA V VI V IA G AN A FONDAZIONE N E I A J A UCAIAZZO GO RES PIAZZA A BO IU F TI I SA VIA O VIAOT V SE RR CATELLA STAZIONE LUIGI DI E BONTEM PIAZZA T Z I R GRAT TACIELO PELLI A Z OM IA VIA TAZZOLI PP A PE V RA PIRELLI L SAVOIA IA V IA P F L P O P V IA PIAZZA E V A E U CASERTA GARIBALDI ZO VIA PECC HIO LU C O C VIA DEL E R G U LO DUCA V IA V IN I PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, N IA V IA LA TO OL LL I D’AOSTA AVIA VAVILL UR IO A AZ ZE VIA RA A VIA QUADRIO RE SRE VI A PI RE GL VI M IN ZE ST TO R T V OY TE V I ASMA D ’A AREAIA TA O R A VIAI A L ESLATAP SUPPORT PORTA O S K The Imagination The “Leonardo. D A N SALES I VA LMANAGER TOSE IA V C E ER SIM EX ENEL EL Z E V I A Machine” multimedia E T V IA A RCA D NUOVA E FA P B A V P M R IA Z DDA SAN PA U E TB OV IA ON VAGIA VIA LOM ONA CO LLI VI T R is on show VIA FRA VI AN ANDE V IA EL exhibition at Palazzo Reale until 14 July: VIA C CHIA VI R E IA R D O AGGA VI IN LAU A its itinerary D LE VIA CH IO VIA AMVIA RHO VIA A RAN R I V IA I I VIA IA L LO R TA VIA SC V IAvideo IO TO CA L E S AG H P EA NT ANI IR CASTELLINI LT S L V B IN VA V S IL L Q proceeds through a series of seven installations, T IA X U A IO O PI V IT V IA PIAZZALE ET LE GV IA D E A EI VIA E VI IMENE V IL D VIA PAP V IA CC I RU V IARD V IA BT R E Z Z O A L EPACIFICO ES VIA A LLA VIA BAIAMONTI DA VIA LIUIBS T IZ LA VI I D AMAaV world of C. A images and soundsV I VI P. enveloping IA viewer in R A IA G. MN. 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New Opening: Via delle Carrozze, 67 - Roma www.angelacaputi.com

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 4

15 6

DUOMO Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. 1 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. 2 CASTELLO SFORZESCO The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. 3 6 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

CENACOLO VINCIANO One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. 4 PALAZZO REALE Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. 5

PIAZZA SCALA The perfect location for the new Gallerie d’Italia Art Museum and the premiere opera house Teatro alla Scala. Rising up in the center of the square is the tall monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci 6 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. 7 BRERA DISTRICT This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. 8

THIS MONTH

WHERE TIPS

• EXHIBITIONS

LEONARDO. THE IMAGINATION MACHINE › Until 14 July Palazzo Reale. www.palazzorealemilano.it THE CHALLENGE. TADAO ANDO › Until 29 July Armani/Silos. Map D6 www.armani.com/silos XXII TRIENNALE - BROKEN NATURE. DESIGN TAKES ON HUMAN SURVIVAL › Until 1 September Triennale Milano. Map D3 www.triennale.org - www.brokennature.org

• EVENTS

MILANO FOOD WEEK › 2-8 May Several locations in Milan www.milanofoodweek.com NATIONAL ALPINI ASSOCIATION GATHERING 2019 › 10-12 May Several locations in Milan www.ana.it PIANO CITY MILANO 2019 › 17-19 May Several locations in Milan www.pianocitymilano.it ORTICOLA DI LOMBARDIA 2019 › 17-19 May Giardini Indro Montanelli. Map G3 www.orticola.org

AMBROSIANA The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. 9 NAVIGLI The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. 10 SAN SIRO STADIUM With a capacity of 80,000 seats, Milan football stadium is the largest stadium in Italy and the fourth in Europe. 11 SANT’AMBROGIO - One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. 12

PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi, the Diamant Tower, Palazzo Lombardia and Palazzo Pirelli designed by Gio Ponti. 13 TRIENNALE DI MILANO Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. 14 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. 15

All-in-one ticket From 16 May 2019 to 12 January 2020 visitors can enjoy the 5xLEONARDO joint ticketing project, available at a special price of € 38 and allowing access to 5 Milanese museums: the Last Supper Museum, Castello Sforzesco Museums (Sala delle Asse), Pinacoteca di Brera, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana and National Museum of Science and Technology Leonardo da Vinci. The ticket will be valid for 30 days from the first visit. Learn more at www.comune.milano.it

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

PH © HALTADEFINIZIONE

WHERE NOW | LEONARDO500

A RETURN TO NATURE

In 2019, Milan will celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci with Leonardo500, an actionpacked program of events that will last for nine months and involve several key locations across the city. By Giulia Minero

▲ On 16 May, Castello Sforzesco’s Sala delle Asse, decorated by Leonardo, will re-open its doors to the public, offering visitors a unique close-up view of the recently restored ‘Monochrome’ mural and the preparatory drawings that re-surfaced on the walls of the room. A multimedia installation will walk visitors through the entire work, from the walls to the vault, commissioned to celebrate Ludovico il Moro. The tour of the room includes an exhibition titled ‘Leonardo and the Sala delle Asse amidst Nature, Art and Science’.

Castello Sforzesco. Piazza Castello, 1. milanocastello.it | saladelleassecastello.it | www.yesmilano.it

SUSPENDED BETWEEN ART AND SCIENCE ▲ The pop-up exhibition Leonardo Parade features more than 52 works, including frescoes by 16th century Lombard painters and models created in the 1950s, based on Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings. In addition to machines, the exhibition features recently restored models of military and civil architecture in plaster and terracotta, offering visitors a unique opportunity to explore Leonardo’s research and studies in different fields related to all aspects of art, science and engineering.

Museo della Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci. Via San Vittore, 21. www.museoscienza.org

For more events: page 56 and www.yesmilano.it

WANG GUANGYI, THE LAST SUPPER (NEW RELIGION), 2011, COURTESY THE ARTIST AND FONDAZIONE STELLINE, MILAN

► Six renowned international artists, from different cultural backgrounds, offer a personal re-interpretation of Leonardo Last Supper in an exhibition titled ‘The Last Supper After Leonardo’. Thanks to their original portrayals, Anish Kapoor, Robert Longo, Masbedo, Nicola Samorì, Wang Guangyi and Yue Minjun, give life to an original dialogue between East and West. The exhibition is scheduled to run until 30 June.

Fondazione Stelline. Corso Magenta, 61. www.stelline.it www.yesmilano.it

BEING LEONARDO DA VINCI On 2, 3, 4, 5 May, Massimiliano Finazzer Flory appears on stage at the Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato as the living embodiment of Leonardo. In an “impossible interview” the actor traces the main events of the artist’s life, art and poetics. This will be followed by a screening of a film titled ‘Being Leonardo’ at Milan’s Cinema Mexico from 16 to 19 May. www.finazzerflory.it | www.piccoloteatro.org | www.yesmilano.it

PHOTO FINAZZER FLORY © GIOVANNI GASTEL

PH © PAOLO SOAVE

THE EAST MEETS THE WEST AND LEONARDO

EXHIBITION WITH NEW DISCOVERIES

CODICES, MACHINES, PAINTINGS AND DRAWINGS

THE WORLD OF LEONARDO DA VINCI Milan, Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Galleria

Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish

Open daily: 9:30 am-10:30 pm Info: 02.495.199.81 www.leonardo3.net

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

MUSIC

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PIANO & THE CITY

During Piano City Milano, and for the MAY eighth consecutive year, Milan will be transformed into an open-air stage. From early morning till late at night, thanks to more than 400 free musical events, the city will resonate with the notes of several of the world’s greatest pianists, and those of emerging talent. Star players at last year’s event included Ludovico Einaudi, Michael Nyman, Chilly Gonzales and Aziza Mustafa Zadeh. In addition to more than 100 locations, this year’s action-packed program will revolve around two strategic locations, GAM’S Piano Center for day concerts and Palazzina Liberty’s Piano Center for night concerts. To celebrate the occasion places that are generally off-limits to the public, including museums and art galleries, historic buildings, private homes and parks, will be transformed into open-air concert halls. Piano City Milano 2019. Different city-wide locations www.pianocitymilano.it PHOTO © MARCO PIERI

HOT DATES MAY

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY GIULIA MINERO & ELENA PEVERATA

10 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

MORE ON WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM/ALL-EVENTS

Milan Events 2019

Milano boasts a calendar of events that will enable visitors to enjoy and experience the city. For information on current and future events visit www.wheremilan.com/all-events and www.yesmilano.it.

MAY

MICAM Milano › 15-18 September Milano Moda Donna › 17-23 September

LEONARDO DA VINCI 500TH ANNIVERSARY

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO at Palazzo Reale. › 25 September 201919 January 2020

› May to January 2020

Milan celebrates 500 years since his death with an events schedule which will see its main hub at the Castello Sforzesco. Leonardo and the Sala delle Asse at Castello Sforzesco | Sala dei Ducali.

OCTOBER FILIPPO DE PISIS at Museo del Novecento.

› 15 May

› 4 October-1 March 2010

ROY LICHTENSTEIN at MUDEC. › 1 May-8 September

REVERIE, ROY LICHTENSTEIN (SCREENPRINT, 1965). COLLECTION LEX HARDING © ESTATE OF ROY LICHTENSTEIN.

Orticola di Lombardia › 17-19 May Piano City Milano › 17-19 May A cultural event that celebrates the piano in several unexpected venues: museums, parks, courtyards, trams, stations… DREAM BEASTS at Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia › Until 19 May ANTONELLO DA MESSINA at Palazzo Reale › Until 2 June

› Until 1 September

SMAU › 22-24 October Golosaria › 26-28 October

NOVEMBER

LEONARDO DA VINCI PARADE at Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia › Until 13 October

JazzMI › 1/-0 November EICMA › 5-10 November Bookcity Milano › 14-17 November

JUNE FASHION WEEK MEN’S Milano Moda Uomo › 14-17 June Annual international event featuring the latest prêt-à-porter collections for men (S/S 2020)

Milano Autoclassica › 22-24 November Artigiano in Fiera › 30 November-8 December

LUCIO FONTANA at Museo del Novecento › 14 June-15 September

AUSTRALIA at PAC Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea. › 28 June-8 September

SEPTEMBER MITO Settembremusica

JAZZMI

› 4-19 September

Formula 1 Gran Premio Heineken d’Italia 2019

DECEMBER

› 8 September

Oh Bej! Oh Bej! › 5-8 December

FASHION WEEK WOMEN’S Vogue for Milano › 13 September

Teatro alla Scala Première › 7 December © SPAZGENEV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

JEAN-AUGUSTE-DOMINIQUE INGRES at Palazzo Reale › Until 23 June

BOB KRIEGER IMAGINE

› Until 30 June

Palazzo Morando | Costume Moda Immagine. Map G4 www.costumemodaimmagine.mi.it IL MERAVIGLIOSO MONDO DELLA NATURA at Palazzo Reale › Until 14 July

FAI Autumn Days › 12-13 October

XXII TRIENNALE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION “Broken Nature: Design Takes on Human Survival” at Triennale Milano

Milano Food City › 2-8 May

ROY LICHTENSTEIN

IL MERAVIGLIOSO MONDO DELLA NATURA

2020-2021 EMILIO VEDOVA at Palazzo Reale › November 2019-February 2020

GEORGES DE LA TOUR at Palazzo Reale › 7 February-7 June 2020

POP ART at Palazzo Reale › October 2020-February 2021

FORMULA 1 GRAND PRIX w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

14 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

Parco Sempione PH © CLAUDIO DIVIZIA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PH © STUDIOLAB / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Over the past few years, Milan has witnessed a rapid increase in its urban green. The city’s parks, from the most classic to the newest, most futuristic, have been transformed into places where people can meet and socialize.

Idroscalo

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

n the past, Milan had a reputation as a concrete jungle: a metropolis focusing only on fashion and business, without consideration for the environment, or an interest in any form of contact with nature. Although Milan, which has approximately 24 million square meters of greenery, is still worlds away from green capitals like Berlin, Madrid or London, the city has seen an exponential increase in its ‘green assets’ over the past few years. Today there is no shortage of greenery in Milan. The city is surrounded by the embrace of sprawling parks that form a natural lung. Among these, the most notable include Parco Forlanini that welcomes visitors landing at Linate airport, and branches out into the recreational area that surrounds the Idroscalo; the Trenno Park, boasting 600.000 sq.m of greenery with bike paths and foot trails; Parco Sud Milano, a large protected rural area connecting the Metropolis to Pavia, which features a succession of farmhouses, waterways and poplar trees and, last but not least, the city’s romantic Parco Lambro, a British-style oasis crossed by the Lambro River, where weeping willows, plane trees and elms are reflected in artificial canals. The city centre has numerous green spaces where the Milanese can indulge in sports, go on walks, recharge their batteries or find shade on hot summer days. In 2018, following the completion of the futurist Biblioteca degli Alberi and CityLife parks, 12,000 new trees were planted, for an increasingly green city that has chosen to incorporate the landscape using a strategy of mobility and urban development that will enhance citizens’ overall quality of life, and encourage sustainable living. In 2019, Milan introduced several beautiful green areas that will be used as recreational urban spaces and outdoor meeting places.

Botanical Garden of Brera

THE OLDEST ONES Among the city’s oldest parks, one of the most notable is Parco Sempione. Wedged between two significant landmarks, the Castello Sforzesco and the Arco della Pace, it hosts numerous events, including marathons and festivals. The park is spread over 386,000 sq.m, and since its inception, Milanese of all ages have come here to enjoy its winding paths and ornamental ponds. The Parco Sempione has a strong connection with art, and in addition to hosting the World’s Fair in 1906, it began hosting the Triennale’s exhibitions, in 1933, following the creation of the Palazzo dell’Arte, now home to Triennale Milano. The most noteworthy buildings found in the park include the Arena Civica, the Civic Aquarium, the Branca Tower, built in the 1930s, and the Parco Sempione Library. Another beautiful green space in the heart of the city centre, is the Indro Montanelli Public Gardens, between via Palestro, via Manin, Corso Venezia and the Bastions of Porta Venezia. The gardens were built at the end of the 1700s based on a French layout, which can be seen in the geometric shape of the flower beds and the broad tree-lined avenues.

FOR LOVERS OF STATISTICS Do you know which are the smallest and largest parks in Milan? If you’re a fan of curious facts, here are the answers. The Perego Gardens, located in the city’s picturesque via dei Giardini, between via Montenapoleone and Brera, are the smallest public gardens in Milan, while Parco Nord is the largest park in Milan. The park extends as far as the communes of Bresso, Cusano Milanino, Cormano, Cinisello Balsamo and Sesto San Giovanni and can be easily accessed by public transport. On arrival, you’ll find the country house of Alessandro Manzoni and a civic airport for tourist use, in addition to events and educational activities. The park houses more than 100 different species of trees, a lake, waterways, two small hills and three bike paths. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 15

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

Orticola at Indro Montanelli Public Gardens

Biblioteca degli Alberi

This park also houses several important buildings including Palazzo Dugnani, a magnificent example of 17th century Baroque architecture, the Civic Museum of Natural History and the Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium, designed by architect Pietro Portaluppi in 1929 (www.comune.milano.it). Just a little further on, across the street, you’ll find another charming garden. The Garden of Villa Reale is one of Milan’s most delightful, secret gems. It’s hard to remember, while strolling through its grounds filled with magnolia trees, cypresses, rhododendrons, cedars, waterfalls, small bridges, a lake shaded by trees, turtles, goldfish and a small temple dedicated to Love, that you’re in the centre of the city. Villa Reale, a neo-classical building, now home to the Gallery of Modern Art, faces onto this idyllic setting. Since, in theory, entrance to the park is reserved for children, who can run around the flower beds, experience the delights of a botanical circuit or play in the well-equipped playground, adults wishing to access the park need to be accompanied by a minor under the age of twelve. But don’t worry if you don’t have a 16 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

PH © DEARMILANO.IT

CityLife Park

child with you - checks are rarely carried out. The prize for Milan’s oldest green space goes to the Guastalla Gardens. Overlooking via Francesco Sforza, the gardens date back to 1555, when Countess Torelli of Guastalla created a school for the daughters of impoverished noble families in the area. A Baroque fish pond, enclosed by granite balustrades and iron railings, peeps out from amongst monumental trees, including catalpas, beeches, maples, hornbeams and horse chestnuts. Other highlights include a 17th-century-aedicule embellished with terracotta statues depicting Mary Magdalene and the angels and a small Neo-classical temple. Finally, another must-visit hidden gem is the Botanical Garden of Brera, a historical garden commissioned by Maria Theresa of Austria in 1777. Spread over 5,000sq.m, it is now a university museum located in the heart of Milan, at Palazzo Brera. It can be accessed from via Brera, through the building’s courtyard, or from the pedestrian entrance of the private via Fratelli Gabba. The flowers beds are planted with a rich collection of Mediterranean flora and a variety of medicinal species. In addition

SAVE THE DATE The Mostra Mercato Orticola di Lombardia, one of the most important Italian showcases for national and international horticulture, will be held at the Indro Montanelli Public Gardens from 17 to 19 May. Thanks to its wealth of unusual, rare and ancient flowers, plants and fruit, this unique flower show intoxicates visitors with its myriad colours and scents (www.orticola.org). Alternately, until 1 September, at ‘Broken Nature: Design takes on Human Survival’, the Triennale Milano explores the complex relationship between man and his habitat, a relationship that has been compromised over the years, threatening the destiny of our planet. The exhibition features design as a remedial tool and includes numerous examples of innovative, creative projects (www.brokennature.org).

to these, the garden hosts several rare plants or plants that are conserved to protect biodiversity. The patriarchs of the garden are two Ginkgo Biloba trees that were planted two and a half centuries ago. In addition to events and educational activities, this ‘open-air’ museum delights visitors with its ever-changing appearance throughout the seasons (ortibotanici.unimi. it/it/orto-botanico-di-brera). THE MOST FUTURISTIC The Biblioteca degli Alberi (Library of Trees) is one of the city’s newest green lungs. It epitomizes the model of a new type of public park and is characterized by a highly complex design layout, using innovative materials. Inaugurated in 2019, it is located in Porta Nuova and connects Piazza Gae Aulenti to the Isola district: 170,000 square metres of greenery and five bike paths, one of the city’s largest pedestrian areas. The park features a wide variety of plant life, consisting of 500 trees, more than 135,000 different plant species and 22 circular forests. The Library of Trees sits at the foot of what people consider the symbol of green Milan: Stefano Boeri’s famous Bosco Verticale, a model of a sustainable residential building that contributes to the regeneration of the environment and urban biodiversity. The Bosco Verticale consists of two tower blocks measuring respectively 110 and 76 meters in height. It has approximately 800 trees,

4,500 shrubs and 15.000 plants as well as a vast range of flowering plants, distributed according to the façade’s exposure to the sun. Each building features the same number of trees that on flat land would occupy a surface area of 20,000 sq.m. The Vertical Forest helps to create an urban ecosystem and can also be colonized by birds and insects. This green building, which has literally changed the face of the Isola district, has won numerous awards, including the Highrise Award in 2014, Best European Architecture 2015 and Best Architecture in the World 2015, based on a ranking by the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat (www.stefanoboeriarchitetti.net). Finally, the CityLife Park was created as part of the redevelopment plan of the Fiera Campionaria, in the Portello district. The park is spread over a green area of approximately 170,000sq.m. In addition to bike and pedestrian paths, it offers direct access to the surrounding districts. This green area is dominated from above by three futuristic skyscrapers, that contribute to an ongoing interchange with the environment and architecture. The skyscrapers are designed by three worldfamous architects: the Isozaki Tower by Arata Isozaki and Andrea Maffei, the Hadid Tower by Anglo-Iranian architect Zaha Hadid and the Libeskind Tower (still under construction) by American architect Daniel Libeskind (www.city-life.it).

4cento

Un posto a Milano

Al Fresco

Eat and drink in green surroundings As proof of the Milanese’s love of nature, the number of locales set in green surroundings continues to increase on a yearly basis. Among these, one of the most picturesque is Osteria con Vista. Housed in the Triennale Milano, this design-oriented, gourmet eatery offers diners a lovely view over the green spaces of Parco Sempione (www.osteriaconvista.it). Al Fresco, in the Tortona district, gives of its best in spring, when eating in its flowering garden becomes a heady experience (www.alfrescomilano.it). Try 4cento, a restaurant and lounge bar located on the outskirts of the city, in a guest house dating back to 1400, surrounded by horse chestnut fronds and wisteria (ristorante4cento.eatbu.com). Another go-to destination in the Porta Romana district is Un Posto a Milano. You can indulge in an aperitivo or dine in an old 18th century farmhouse, at this charming venue. Other highlights include a vegetable garden and a flower shop (www. unpostoamilano.it).

Osteria con Vista w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations during sale time!

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

TORINO?

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

VENEZIA

FERRARA

Mondovicino Outlet Village

GENOVA

Fidenza Village

MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

PISA

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

FIRENZE The Mall

LIVORNO

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism. • WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica). • WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian and international brands at prices reduced by up to 70% off the recommended retail price – seven days a week, all year round. More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood and many more. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selection of

Designer Outlet

Mantova PIACENZA Serravalle Outlet Village Designer Outlet

? TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

? ALESSANDRIA

Torino Outlet Village

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg PESCARA wines but also offers a unique shopping FOXTOWN FACTORYCORSICA STORES experience: Franciacorta Outlet Village - top An outlet store on the Swiss border, FoxTown international brands and discounts of up to uses the popular US-style “Factory Stores” 70% year-round. ROMA formula: practically all the best designer labels • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway at factory prices (from 30% to 70% less). and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi and • WHERE: just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km MAR exit TIRRENO at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is from Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway available from Milan (see page 20). and exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service is NAPOLI • WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: over 190 available from Milan (see page 20). stores of Italian and international brands for up • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than to 30-70% less all year round: Adidas, Baldinini, 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, Beretta, Billionaire, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Guess, Michael Kors, Cavalli Class, Fratelli Rossetti, Loriblu, Nike, Pinko, Montblanc, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Plein Sport, Pal Zileri, Richard Ginori, Twin-Set, SARDEGNA Valentino), 1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, Trussardi, Under Armour and many more. an exchange office, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points. www.foxtown.com • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full

restaurants offers local products based on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes or tasty snacks for a relaxing break. www.fidenzavillage.com

Serravalle Designer Outlet 18 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

Franciacorta Outlet Village

Fidenza Village

FoxTown Factory Stores

of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with our daily shuttle service.

and Fashion areas Mon-Wed 10am-8pm and Thurs-Sun 10am-9pm. Food area 10am-10pm.

www.franciacortaoutlet.it

scalomilano.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan. • WHERE: situated in Locate di Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a Zani Viaggi free shuttle service from the Central StationPiazza Duca d’Aosta (M2-M3 Centrale FS) and from largo Cairoli (M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza): Thurs-Fri-Sat-Sun, 11am and 2pm (40 min. travel time). www.zaniviaggi.com (see page 20) • WHAT: it hosts 130 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Karl Lagerfeld, Fratelli Rossetti, Baldinini, A. Testoni, a Ferrari store and 20 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Cassina, Poltrona Frau…), as well as new collections and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items purchased here. Open daily: Design

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes. away from Milan’s city center. Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia. From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte (see page 20) and from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires. Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle. • WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss,

Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants for a perfect shopping experience at unbelievable prices! McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan, in the province of Novara, this is the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s shopping. • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70%. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

Vicolungo The Style Outlets w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

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ER M P E C OIAR MSO PA GA T V NI VI A N I GNI A 10A S PIAZZA R E L I V IA A I A V VI M I NA ALE E R TO 26 P M L I S VI O P ASC CQ SLARGO IA C A BABILA A TO I AL SANTA R S IO T SAN VI IA C IE U P V O E T V A N D IC PIAZZALE IA V IL I RSO V MARIA I E PIAZZA I I ASA AG ANCONA R VIARBORGO GNA The Last Supper LI R L PIAZZA I 2 VIG Largo Cairoli, 18 (corner Via Cusani). T: 02 867131. M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza. www.zaniviaggi.it www.livemilano.com C ENTA E I T RA U MAG V N M U CORSO AGENTA BAIAMONTI A NE L IA I N VI IA C E VIA ME L I B DELLE MA TA DEL V VIA M R L M V GROSSI VIA V E A A V CORDUSIO . R V R I I E VIA OT TA A A IA GRAZIE LIBERTY AI O CA DE NU TT I BE O LLO ER GALLERIA BELLIN CRI M EV I A N G O POA S. PP VIT TORIO S PORTA VIALE PA SC A NEGRI VIA . E M EXCELSIOR I R C DE NI EST E LII MILANO IOPNE EMANUELE RT M. PIAZZA Z I OV OV ES OFORIS VIARTO AN I SUB LIN VIA PASS O N T ON VOLTA A AFFARI SARPI IC C.S ANSPE TI GN IO LO V IA I O I N ’A H PA I E V V IA L E I PIAZZA A NT BIO V IACANTON 20 VIA FULCIA S. VIAPODESTLLA HETTO C R IS P W H E R E MVI LIAA N I M 2019 VIA SA DEL VI A AY DUOMO PIAZZALE VIA P C PIAZZA VI AL E M ON VIA I OR M O ON E I VIA N DUOMO A VIA M OC U T GN R A GI ORVGI . VI I B TE B S A GR 12 R VIAP PA XXV APRILE A R I N A VIA L E A TI A IA AC VI BACONE DUOMO i POINT V IA EL NI RIA CO S T I LO GUENRCINOV PIAZZA LI SO RRIDO MUSEO A1 TA LE LARGO PIAZZA VIA 18 PIAZZA A FILIPPO VCO SA SANT’AMBROGIO B AASVAT I 900 IT PONVIA G A PINACOTECA V IA G IU DEL FONTANABERSAGLIERI L

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[ W H AT ' S N E W I N T H E C I T Y]

New Openings Renaissance circuit

Messere Milano This restaurant in the Tortona district overlooks a typical banister house courtyard. ‘Messere Milano. Hoste con Stile’ opens every day for breakfast and stays open until after dinner, offering guests a combined shopping and culinary experience. No detail has been left to chance in creating its ambience, which includes carefully selected pastel colours, and combines a mixture of art and design that conveys a sense of exclusive intimacy. The items displayed (only available online) include home ware, garden décor, clothing and tableware. The selection is completed by an assortment of Culti home fragrances. The culinary offerings focus on Lombard-Milanese cuisine and includes diverse tasting menus for lunch and dinner. Via Savona, 11. www.messeremilano.it. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

MixMi This must-visit locale is a charming, multi-functional space where you can purchase clothing and accessories designed by young emerging stylists, book a relaxing massage or a yoga lesson, order a personalized bouquet of flowers, refresh your look with a make-up session and a quick blow dry, converse with friends at a table in the café, or organize an aperitivo with friends. MixMi is located in via Maggi, in the neighbourhood of the Parco Sempione. The venue’s café and pasticceria offer fresh, seasonal, artisanal cakes and pastries, high-end coffee blends and a selection of teas and herbal teas from all over the world. While lunch choices are quick and healthy, and prepared only with the freshest, seasonal ingredients, the aperitivo focuses on classic appetizers paired with creative cocktails. Via Carlo Maria Maggi, 2. www.mixmi.it. T: 02 66663460. M2 Moscova. Map E3 22 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

WHERE TIPS

Would you like to immerse yourself in a Milanese Renaissance atmosphere? Today, you can visit three landmarks of the period, in an area covering a few square kilometers. › Our Renaissance tour begins in Corso Magenta, with Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, housed in the former refectory of the convent lying adjacent to the sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie (www.cenacolo.it). Map D4 › From here, after a pleasant 10-minute walk amongst historic buildings, the tour takes you to Castello Sforzesco, where you can admire the Pietà Rondanini, Michelangelo Buonarroti’s last, unfinished sculpture (www.milanocastello.it). Map E4 › After this, you’ll head towards Piazza Pio XI, home to the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. Here, you’ll have a chance to view Raffaello Sanzio’s recently restored preparatory cartoon for the School of Athens (the fresco is housed in the Vatican), the world’s largest surviving Renaissance cartoon which was entirely hand-drawn by the famous artist (www.raffaelloambrosiana.it). Map F5

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world. Take advantage of a stroll through the city to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewel or some other alluring detail of style. Where brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! ®

▲ GUCCI The classic shape of the leather loafer is re-imagined with subtle details for Spring 2019. The front of this model in soft white leather is decorated with a thin enameled metal detail, resembling a horsebit, with a double ‘G’ at the centre. www.gucci.com

▲ GIORGIO ARMANI For the S/S 2019 collection, the iconic, clean-cut lines of Giorgio Armani’s eyewear creations are enhanced with an innovative Signature logo. A tribute to the glamour of contemporary high-end fashion. www.armani.com

► EMILIO PUCCI One of the Florentine maison’s must-haves for summer, this open-toe sandal featuring brightly-coloured cut-out details embraces a joyful, unconventional femininity. www.emiliopucci.com

◄ PETTINAROLI This original pen holder, covered in antiqued leather, is a refined item that can be purchased as a souvenir of your trip or given as a gift to add a touch of old-world elegance to any desk. www.fpettinaroli.it – www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com

◄ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE ‘Rosa Moceniga’ is a delicate, sensual eau de parfum which takes its name from a rare variety of Chinese rose, imported from France by Lucia Mocenigo. The fragrance is enhanced with notes of saffron, Indonesian patchouli, crystal amber and white cedar extract. www.themerchantofvenice.com

◄ PIQUADRO Available in four different colours, this shoulder bag is a functional, elegant accessory. The perfect addition to any summer wardrobe. www.piquadro.com

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SHOPPING .C E T R R A V E L E

The emblem of femininity Located in a warm, welcoming space in the heart of Brera, Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s Milanese boutique presents visitors with its latest spring/summer 2019 jewelry collections. By Giulia Minero

ince 1975, the jewelry designed by Angela Caputi Giuggiù has been synonymous with design, innovation and creativity. Featuring a blend of art and fashion, her creations are characterized by a continuously evolving creative process. Also known by the nickname Giuggiù, the Florentine designer has become a byword across the globe. For more than forty years, countless sources of inspirations have stimulated and continue to stimulate the designer including, first and foremost, her love of 20th century American movies. Each piece is assembled by hand in full respect of tradition and the true concept of

Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. The combination of typical working techniques and the use of modern materials, including synthetic resins, makes these objects authentic expressions of contemporary art. Inspired by a desire for innovation, the Florentine designer welcomes summer with ‘Anniversary’ and ‘Edelweiss’, two new lines from her 2019 spring/ summer collection. Designed to celebrate the long history of the brand, the former, featuring contrasting colours, including black and white, combined with veining and striations, pays tribute to the simple but never banal designs that have distinguished Angela Caputi’s signature style since the very beginning. Thanks to

Each piece of jewelry becomes a unique piece

24 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

the different renderings of working techniques and the use of colours on materials, each piece of jewelry is unique and unlike any other. On the other hand, the Edelweiss collection, with its floral pattern, encapsulates a symbolic message. Interpreted in the optical white version, in addition to evoking Alpine landscapes, the Alpine star symbolizes women who tactfully combat the battles of everyday life without ever relinquishing their refinement, elegance or femininity. >> Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4 www.angelacaputi.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. SHOPPING

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 24,000 merchants are located in Milan. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, Value Retail outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in the Entertainment section, because they are considered as meeting places. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Aspesi

NEW OPENING The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Fedeli

POP-UP BOUTIQUE The company’s passion for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to individual customer preferences since its early production days during the 1930’s, has consolidated the brand as symbol of pure, high-class fashion. Scarves, cashmere pullovers, knitwear, shirts, swimwear and polos and outerwear all crafted using only the finest, “Made-in-Italy” yarns processed according to time-honoured artisan techniques. Pop-up boutique: via Verri corner of via Bigli. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 02 76023392. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Manzoni 24 A stylish location in the heart of the city where customers can discover all the elegance of its uber-luxe fur collections. Sophisticated creations for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Its specialized staff is on-hand to suggest the look best suited to each and every customer’s individual requirements. Open 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.condorpelli.it. Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Nobili Nobili boasts fashion-forward cashmere knitwear for women and men. Its luxurious, sophisticated garments, also designed for warm weather wear, are entirely produced in Italy. In addition to a series of ‘made-to-measure’ pieces for all seasons, Nobili is renowned for using superior natural yarns, including Italian cashmeresilk and 100% Scottish cashmere. The company recently launched ‘Nobili cashmere Parfum’, a unique fragrance infused with the essence of cashmere which has already received resounding success. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www. nobilimilano.it. Via Manzoni 40-42 (Showroom: Via A. Manzoni, 43. T: 02 36752870. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm). M3 Montenapoleone.

A unique fragrance

The ancient origins of the ‘Rosa Moceniga’ fragrance by The Merchant of Venice are associated with the Venetian art of perfume making. This exquisite, rare flower, that originated in China, was imported from France by Lucia Mocenigo, a close friend of Josephine Bonaparte, who was passionate about these flowers. The name ‘Moceniga’ derives from the ancient Venetian Mocenigo family whose historic residence in Alvisopoli has maintained a garden devoted to the cultivation of this rose for the past two hundred years. The essence created by The Merchant of Venice draws inspiration from this mysterious rose, distinguished by its silvery pink petals and light veining. The head notes seduce with fresh notes of Sicilian bergamot and the sweetness of rose essence, delicately enhanced by black currant leaves. At its heart, this floral bouquet dominated by rose absolute is exalted by hints of magnolia and lotus flowers, while a mixture of musk, white cedar wood and vanilla rounds out the scent for a deep captivating finish. Like all the women’s fragrances of the ‘Murano Collection’, ‘Rosa Moceniga’ is contained in an elegant bottle inspired by exquisite handcrafted glass. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268. M2 Lanza. Map F4

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SHOPPING Luxury shopping

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

● Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi ●

● Gobbi 1842 ● Rocca 1794

● Orologeria Luigi Verga

● Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan

26 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

◗ Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

◗ Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

◗ Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 ◗ Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

Illustration copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4

ETRO—www.etro.com. Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

ASPESI—www.aspesi.com Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 760841. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27/a. T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c. T: 02 76015982. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 77886999. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 DIOR—www.dior.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711. Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man). T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories). T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via Montenapoleone, 2 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76003495. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 HOGAN—www.hogan.com Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ISSEY MIYAKE—www.isseymiyake.com Via Bagutta, 12. T: 02 781040. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. Map G4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 7772901. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Galleria San Carlo, 12. T: 02 76341378. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 8. T: 02 76341381. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4 MISSONI—www.missoni.it Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta.

Available in three different sizes, the ‘Cece’ bag, from the MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS line, can be carried by the chain-link handle or worn over the shoulder.

Suede leather ASPESI sneaker by Filling Pieces. A must-have accessory for the upcoming season that adds a touch of casual chic to the outfits of style-conscious gents.

T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 PRADA—www. prada.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman). T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man). T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman). T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TOD’S—www.tods.com Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am-7pm). T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDI—www.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 VERSACE—www.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89011479. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

SHOPPING Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, IWC, Panerai, Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Tag Heuer, Dietrich and Pomellato jewelry. The internal workshop provides high qualified watch repair and maintenance services. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/ 3pm-7pm.

www.vergaorologi.it Corso Vercelli, 19 M1 Conciliazione-Pagano T: 02 48198656

● Luigi Verga Orologi

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTERS

10pm. www.thebrianebarrybuilding.it. Via Durini, 28. T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. Map G4

12 The Brian&Barry Building San Babila

NEW The new CityLife Shopping district, the largest urban shopping centre in Italy, is located in a redeveloped urban area that once housed Milan’s historic fairgrounds. Developed in collaboration with archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata isozaki and Daniel Libeskind, CityLife is one of the largest urban redevelopment projects ever conceived in Europe. In addition to integrating residences, offices, public parks, outdoor spaces and service facilities, the district hosts 100 shops and eateries:

A 12-floor “vertical dream”, starting from the basement and spiralling upwards to the 9th floor, hosting the ASOLA | Cucina Sartoriale restaurant helmed by chef Matteo Torretta, and the 10th floor featuring a terrace/lounge space. The megastore will host a series of different high-end products and services including clothing, food, cosmetics, design objects, jewellery and watches. Open daily 10am-

CityLife Shopping District

fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home décor and high-tech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. Open daily 9am-9pm. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it. Piazza Tre Torri. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2

Il Centro One of the largest shopping mall in Europe, Il Centro boasts over 200 shops and boutiques devoted to fashion, accessories, gifts, homeware, high-tech, leisure, beauty and wellness - 25 restaurants, a diagnostic centre, a sports centre and few play areas for kids. Designed by the internationally renowned architect Michele

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts. Located in via Verdi, just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most up-todate haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone

28 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

Luxury shopping

FR K

BLAC

S AY ID

U M M E R E DI T IO

FENDI (OUTLY) rrp 250€ outlet 159€

Join us on 31st May for our Black Friday Summer Edition. Enjoy extra discounts on outlet prices on your favourite designer brands for one day only.

PATRIZIA PEPE rrp 128€ outlet 83€

CARLO PAZOLINI rrp 265€ outlet 172€

THE NEEDTOKNOWS

where it all happens celebrate spring with new arrivals for up to 70% less at Serravalle Designer Outlet As the days get longer and the weather gets warmer, it’s time to refresh your wardrobe. Whether you champion a maximalist aesthetic, or prefer to keep your look sleek and minimal, you’ll find styles to suit at Serravalle Designer Outlet. Shop hundreds of your favourite designer brands like Coach, Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace for up to 70% less.

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FLAVIO CASTELLANI rrp 248€ outlet 149€

GETTING HERE We’re just an hour from Milan. Take our convenient shuttle bus services from four locations in the city centre, or if you’re driving, take advantage of our free parking. TAXFREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents can claim a tax refund on products purchased in our centre from our onsite tax refund office. SAVE AN EXTRA 10% Show this page to Guest Services to receive your Fashion Passport, giving you an additional 10% off outlet prices.

SHOPPING de Lucchi, it has been inspired by the ancient Lombard courts. Located just 20 minutes from the centre of Milan, it is easily accessible from the Stazione Centrale via a convenient shuttle service (pick up point Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta – ticket on board 5 € return or www.zaniviaggi.it). Open daily 9am-10pm. www.centroilcentro.it. Via Luraghi, 11 – Arese (MI). Off Map

Rinascente

MUST-SEE A fabulous department store overlooking the Duomo, a real part of Milan’s history. 10 storeys with a refined and contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Rinascente Food & Restaurants on the 7th floor features a Food Market brimming with rare

delicacies, all origin controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste (open 7 days a week until midnight; dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2. T: 02 8852471). Open seven days a week: from Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 10am-9pm. www.rinascente.it.Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Scalo Milano Located approximately 15 minutes from downtown Milan, this is a hub of fashion, food, design and much more. Boasting approximately 130 stores on one level (with the exception of the Food Court which has been designed as an arena below the street level) this outlet village promises a unique shopping experience. It can be quickly reached by

car or via the S13 Railway link (‘Locate Triulzi’ station). Free shuttle bus from Milan Central Railway Station and piazza Cairoli. Check the website for opening hours. www.scalomilano.it. Via Milano, 5 (Locate Triulzi). T: 02 90470350. Off Map

DESIGNER STORES 10 Corso Como A unique and ever-expanding mix of selling spaces grouped around a beautiful courtyard in Corso Como’s pedestrian area. Worth particular note are the Galleria Carla Sozzani, a book store stocking design books, boutiques, must-have luxury goods, a café and a restaurant. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-SatSun 10.30am-7.30pm; Wed-Thurs 10.30am-9pm. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10. T: 02 653531. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Alessi An “art factory” which offers utensils and accessories signed by some of the most renowned names in international design. Open Mon-Sun 10am-70pm. www.alessi.com. Via A. Manzoni, 14/16. T: 02 795726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Armani/Casa In the many years since its lauch, Armani/Casa has established a pure, modern tradition where pragmatism becomes poetry. A precise aesthetic sense pervades every collection by Giorgio Armani. Open Mon-Sat 10am-19pm. www.armanicasa.com. Corso Venezia, 14. T: 02 76260230. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Artemide Located close to the historic Palazzo Poldi Pezzoli, the shop is given over entirely to lighting. Lamps and light systems boasting cutting-edge technology plus a design consultancy service. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.artemide.com. Via A. Manzoni, 12. T: 02 778712201. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cargo

Land of shopping and art

A unique destination for shopping, culture and entertainment, the Franciacorta Outlet Village offers visitors more than 190 stores of well-known Italian and international brands with year-round discounts of up to 70%. Located less than an hour from the centre of Milan, Franciacorta Outlet Village is the ideal destination for high-end purchases. The new collections feature clothing for men, women and children, accessories, footwear, toys and linens by bigname brands like Cavalli Class, Pal Zileri, Flavio Castellani, Caractère, Cinzia Rocca, Romeo Gigli, Angelico, Elena Mirò, Champion Premium Collection, Momonì, Liviana Conti and Sunglasshut. Until Sunday 9 June don’t miss the ‘MILAN is beautiful … goes to Franciacorta’ exhibition. The highly unconventional works of Mr. Brainwash, one of the most esteemed Street Artists on the international art market, are on show at the Village to amaze, stimulate and excite you with messages of love, beauty and the search for happiness. Don't miss this unique opportunity to purchase one of his sought after Spray Cans, created exclusively for the Village. Lastly, Saturday 4 May will be a truly special day at Franciacorta Outlet Village. From 2.30pm to 6.30pm, 20 Mille Miglia eligible vintage cars will push their engines to breaking point from the streets of the Village in a reliability race that anticipates the 1000 Miglia 2019 (15-18 May). If you’d like to access the Village without relying on your car, you can use our convenient Shopping Shuttle which departs daily from the centre of Milan at 11am. Travelers on the Shopping Shuttle will be eligible to receive a One Day Card, a loyalty card offering additional discounts on outlet prices. You can also use the Shuttle to take a guided tour of one of Franciacorta’s fabulous wine cellars and enjoy a wine-tasting session. www.franciacortaoutlet.it

30 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

Home furnishings, books, perfumes, candles, carpets and a sector dedicated to tropical plants. An exotic open space reconverted from a famous Milanese industrial factory but also a cultural centre hosting discussions on art, food, music and games. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.cargomilano. it. Via A. Meucci, 43. T: 02 2722131. M2 Crescenzago. Off Map

Christofle Christofle evokes innovative modern design and the elegance of times gone by with its beautifully crafted silver cutlery, tableware, crystal jewellery and gift objects. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am7pm. www.christofle.com. Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Danese A small shop, with a vaguely understated air, for one of Italy’s legendary design brands. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.danesemilano.com. Piazza San Nazaro in Brolo, 15. T: 02 58304150. M3 Missori, M3 Crocetta. Map F5

Driade A cult store for the globally design-addicted offering furniture, objets d’art and accessories designed by some of the biggest names on the international design scene. Located in the heart of Milan, it is spread over an area of about 500 square meters on three levels and with a beautiful outdoor

SHOPPING area. The store embodies the spirit of the Driade world: a 360-degree view on the world of living which combines poetry and rigor and translates them into a timeless, elegant, and joyful product. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.driade.com. Via Borgogna, 8. T: 02 799957. M1 San Babila. Map G4

De Padova A domestic place integrated with the Boffi brand, where architecture, design and interior design are together in an innovative dimension, with the usual style. It cannot be seen from the street, but the inside experience – moving between the two levels of 1100 square metres in total, in the outside/inside connection – recalls the relationship with the city and its industriousness.

Two high-end brands have teamed up to develop an exclusive home diffuser. An interpretation by KRISTINA TI for the ‘Aramara’ label, a timeless fragrance created by CULTI MILANO.

Open Mon 10am-6pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.depadova.com. Via Santa Cecilia, 7. T: 02 777201. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Galleria Rossana Orlandi Opened in 2002 in a former tie Factory in the Magenta neighbor, it has been forecasting along the years new and upcoming designers and establishing the premise as one of the most revered platform for avant-garde Design and Lifestyle. The space is articulated in a not traditional way mixing together, showroom, a retail store, offices and a courtyard for events and meeting. Galleria Rossana Orlandi has also revolutionized the way to present design art pieces, showing them always in real ambiances. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rossanaorlandi.com. Via M. Bandello, 14/16. T: 02 4674471. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

High Tech A large multi-space emporium selling sofas, bookshelves, fragrances, notebooks, lamps, kitchenware but also ethnic furniture and fashion accessories. Original, innovative home furnishings at affordable prices. Open Mon 1.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.cargomilano.it. Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 6241101. M2 Moscova, M2-M5 Garibaldi. Map F2

Paola C. The showroom is located in the courtyard of via Solferino 11 and hosts a tableware collection based on a youthful yet refined interpretation. The Paola C. collections of objects made using a variety of materials are created by Italian and foreign designers and artists under the art direction of Aldo Cibic. His items are also available at Savona 18 Suites (Tortona district), where you can buy vintage and contemporary design objects. The hall of the hotel is a real gallery of art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. Saturday by appointment only. www.paolac.com. Via Solferino, 11. T: 02 862409. M2 Moscova. Map F3

Poltrona Frau A symbol of Italian artisan elegance. In addition to its cult leather armchairs, it also stocks a rich collection of sofas, beds, tables, desks and accessories. Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.poltronafrau.com. Via Durini, 1. T: 02 6570626. M1 San Babila. Map G5 • Via A. Manzoni, 30. T: 02 97070170. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Venini The art of glass-making. The new collections and the historic pieces of this brand founded in 1921 are showcased against a neutral, minimalist background. Via Montenapoleone, 10. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.venini.com. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila. Map F4

Villeroy & Boch The company boasts years of experience in the field of product design and interior design. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroy-boch.com. Via Montebello, 35. T: 02 65584928. M3 Turati. Map F3 32 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

FASHION OUTLETS Il Salvagente Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of high-end fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags! Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 76110328. www.salvagente.com. Map H4

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet The boutique welcomes customers into a warm, elegant atmosphere where they can savour the spirit of the Maison of Le Brassus, the oldest makers of Haute Horlogerie still owned by the founding family. Though this is one of the brand’s smallest venues it nevertheless showcases the four collections of Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Millenary and Jules Audemars. Here visitors can also admire the special editions created for Audemars Piguet boutiques throughout the world together with several complicated pieces. Upon request, the boutique offers a worldwide delivery service. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www. audemarspiguet.com. Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02 76003115. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for refined jewelry just expanded by adding the brand Fred to the wide handcrafted Gobbi collection, and timepieces, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor. You will get the same fine assistance that the Gobbi family has been providing its clients for the last six generations. The upper-floor laboratory provides

WELCOME TO THE BEST SELECTION OF MADE IN ITALY HIGH FASHION FABRICS Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124 / 02 76001986 www.vallitessuti.com

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A metropolitan outlet village located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan, it hosts 130 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Karl Lagerfeld, Baldinini, A. Testoni, a Ferrari store, and 20 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Poltrona Frau…), as well as new collections and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round.

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Duomo

Scala : 1:40 per formato A3

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quick, top quality, watch repair and maintenance service. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gobbi1842.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G4

certified repair workshop. www.vergaorologi.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Corso Vercelli, 19. T: 02 48198656. M1 ConciliazioneM1 Pagano. Map C4

Luigi Verga Orologi

Orologeria Luigi Verga

A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, Baume&Mercier, Montblanc, Panerai, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, TCM, Pomellato and Pomellato 67. Luigi Verga Orologi also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008

A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar Piguet, Eberhard & Co., Panerai, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor and Hublot. Its certified upper-floor workshop provides high-qualified watch repair and maintenance services. www. luigiverga.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm7pm. Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo). T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 • Open Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. Via V. Capelli, 6 (Piazza Gae Aulenti). The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor, Pomellato and Montblanc. T: 02 6595775. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Patek Philippe Boutique by Pisa Orologeria The boutique represents further proof of the perfect harmony between the Pisa Family and the Patek Philippe brand, as well as their common determination to offer clients an environment of excellence for the Geneva masterpieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Mon 10.30am-7pm. www.patek.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years. A ground-breaking expansion project involving the addition of 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie, from the A of Audemars Piguet to the Z of Zenith. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.pisaorologeria. com. Via P. Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Among its masterpieces of superior craftsmanship, GIOSA MILANO has created ‘Gioia’, a crocodile skin bag in which the colours of spring blossom in different hues of pink.

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Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique The Pisa family has always been a forerunner in the world watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. The collaboration between

SHOPPING the Pisa family and the Rolex brand goes back over 70 years. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. pisaorologeria.com. Via Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Christofle is a French luxury house which embodies the Art of sharing. Since its founding in 1830, the house has continually renewed its exceptional silversmithing know-how and techniques. It has expanded its offer to include all aspects of the modern lifestyle-Table Arts, Bar and Oenology, Home Décor, Baby and children Gifts, High Silversmithing- as well as Jewelry and Personal accessories. www.christofle.com

Pomellato

Boutique Corso Venezia, 6 T: 02 781948. M1 San Babila. pavillon.milano@christofle.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Rocca 1794

Established in 1967 and handcrafted by expert goldsmiths, Pomellato collections include vibrant coloured stones set in gold, irregular cuts and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17. T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via Montenapoleone, 17. T:02 76014530. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Master jewellers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor. Rocca guarantees outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. www.rocca1794.com. • Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7pm. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open daily 6.30am-9.30pm (Sat 6.30am-9pm). Milano Malpensa Airport - Terminal 1 (Piazza del Lusso). T: 02 74867578. Off Map

Ronchi Opened in 1929, it has become a prestigious reference point for watch lovers the world over, always combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery and ongoing research on fashion-forward and classic trends. Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Tiffany & Co.

Vicolungo The Style Outlets, a unique lifestyle experience Vicolungo The Style Outlets is a go-to destination for those wishing to enjoy a unique Italian lifestyle experience. The centre is located just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport and is easily accessible from the A4 Milano-Torino motorway (Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). The centre hosts 150 boutiques with year-round 30-70% discounts off the retail price, featuring more than 300 top Italian and international brands including Armani, Cavalli Class, Missoni, T Trussardi, Patrizia Pepe, Baldinini, Borbonese, Twin-set, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Guess. The outlet also stocks several of the world’s most coveted sportswear brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour. Vicolungo The Style Outlets is one of the closest outlets to Milan and it is connected to the city centre via a convenient shuttle service that departs daily at 10.30am from Milano Cairoli. The Vicolungo outlet offers its customers numerous services including tax-free shopping, free Wi-Fi, a book sharing space, a designated pet area and mini-bike-sharing for kids. To end your day’s shopping on a relaxing note, make sure to sample the typically Italian cuisine offered by Vicolungo The Style Outlet’s numerous bars and restaurants. Additionally, by presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price, at participating shops. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

This world-renowned jeweller has ten boutiques in Italy: Milan, Rome, Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna. Located in the heart of Milan, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famous New York counterpart founded in 1837. www.tiffany. it. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-8.30pm. Piazza Duomo Flagship Store. T: 02 89094202. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 19/A. T: 02 76022321. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am 8.30pm. Shop in Shop c/o Excelsior Milano. Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76280561. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vacheron Constantin The Vacheron Constantin flagship store at the multi-brand Pisa Orologeria boutique offers an overview of the extraordinary world of this Swiss manufacturer, an icon of watchmaking excellence for the past 260 years. The ‘Satellite’ area, dedicated entirely to the Geneva-based brand, is located at the entrance of the store. True to its heritage, the space captivates visitors with its meticulous choice of materials, minimalist elegance and welcoming atmosphere. Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.vacheronconstantin.com – www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

36 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

The best shopping in Milan

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

For your shopping, in the shadow of the Duomo, head to the Rinascente flagship store.

10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Constant new arrivals from the most prestigious brands and emerging talents allow shoppers to find both timeless classics and the latest fashion trends. The basement floor houses the Design Supermarket, a floor devoted to design in its multiple expressions featuring a slew of articles carrying the signature of the greats of national and international designer: Alessi, Pantone and loads of others besides. The ground floor is a true emporium of beauty and prominent fragrance brands, featuring not only corners and a staff of expert makeup artists but also the jewellery area hosting precious collections of high jewelry.

Conversely, the balcony houses the luxury accessories of famed and fabled Italian and international brands. The store’s range of menswear fashion starts on the first floor (floors 1 and 2), where you can find the innovative Sneakers Zone featuring more than 400 products by 23 different brands, while the 3rd and 4th floors are given over to women’s fashions (including the must-visit footwear area). The 5th floor is dedicated to lingerie and children’s fashion. Continuing upwards, you’ll reach the 6th floor devoted to homeware collections while the 7th floor houses the exclusive Food Hall hosting various themed restaurants (My Sushi, Obicà Mozzarella Bar, Il Bar, Juice Bar, Maio Restaurant, Be Steak, De Santis, Champagnerie Moët & Chandon and Corallo Lobster Bar) and the Food Market, where you can purchase any number of international delicacies.

Discover the Wine Shop: at this unique space dedicated to the finest wines on the Italian and international scene, you can taste and purchase the products of worldclass producers. Visitors love this floor as it is the ideal place to find luxury food gifts and, what’s more, a fab panoramic terrace featuring a spectacular view over the spires of the Duomo. Try the exclusive On Demand Service, a dedicated instant messaging service to make shopping easier: the personal shopper who finds your favourite product in store and deliver it directly to your house. Available also on WeChat. T: + 39 3440081600. ondemand@rinascente.it >> Rinascente - Piazza Duomo www.rinascente.it Open 7 days a week. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

SHOPPING Christofle Located in the heart of Milan, venerable Parisian tableware and home decor house Christofle has given its emblematic boutique a sumptuous makeover. All of its tableware, home décor, accessories and jewelry collections, customizable on request, are sold both at its boutique and at la Rinascente (6th floor). Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm. www.christofle.com - pavillon.milano@ christofle.com.Boutique Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Culti Milano

KITCHEN MILANO

NOBILI

See this page.

See page 25.

Following the launch of its historic showroom in corso Venezia 53, via Fiori Chiari 6 is the address of Culti Milano’s new Brera-based boutique dedicated to sought-after home fragrances. The store stocks the entire range of the House’s signature fragrances, characterized by its unmistakable style which focuses on quality, a careful selection of only the finest ingredients and painstaking attention to detail, to personalize both the home and the workplace with an aura of sophisticated elegance. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am7.30pm. www.culti.com. Via Fiori Chiari, 6. T: 02 36553875. M2 Lanza. Map F3

LEATHER & LUGGAGE

PASSION SHOPPING

Giosa Milano

Chris Cerf

KitcheN Milano

Located in the Romanesque heart of Milan, in a period palace opposite the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, this elegant, welcoming space is dedicated to women in search of something special. Here, with the help of skilled artisans, Chris Cerf, a designer who has been engaged in sourcing precious fabrics and forgotten patterns for the past twenty years, creates unique, personalized garments. Items on offer include printed silk shirts, printed velvet coats, embroidered swimwear and printed silk or cotton dresses.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am2pm/3pm-7pm. Map E5

A reference point on the Milanese scene for cooking enthusiasts. Within its welcoming and modern space, KitcheN offers a wide range of top-quality utensils and gadgets in sought-after designs, as well as a selection of gourmet foods and cookery books. This concept stems from a partnership with knIndustrie which curated its restyling and artistic direction, repositioning the brand and introducing new products and new ‘stories’ dedicated to contemporary and professional cuisine, with a focus on versatility, experience and accessibility. This multifunctional space also hosts a rich events calendar including cookery courses, seminars, cultural meetings, exhibitions and tastings. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.kitchenmilano.it. Via E. De Amicis, 45. T: 02 58102849. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.Map E5

UNIQUE An atelier combined with a showroom in the Brera district, where the particular way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a business, a family history for about 50 years. The atelier merges the traditional working techniques of how to handle the most precious leathers with the modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giosa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Sun by appointment. www.giosamilano.com. Vicolo Ciovasso, 1. T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F4

R-Store

APPLE PREMIUM RESELLER This R-Store, one of the 16 sales points in Italy, offers Apple products and accessories, qualified pre-and post-sales assistance, as well as courses and services, making it a go-to reference point for customers requiring any type of trouble-shooting advice. The store also provides dedicated consultancy to companies, schools, universities and the world of public administration. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7pm. www. rstore.it. Viale Piave, 38. T: 02 29510038. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3

The Merchant of Venice

FEDELI For your summer getaway, Fedeli, the historic knitwear brand established in 1934, proposes the iconic ‘Steve’ polo in organic giza piquet, to be worn over a matching Madeira swim trunk. Until the opening of its new store at number 24, via San Pietro all’Orto, the Fedeli boutique has a cozy pop-up store in via Verri. www.fedelicashmere.com

40 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

A historic brand epitomizing the Venetian art of perfume-making, has an elegant, new store in Brera. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice carries a luxury line comprising a wide range of exclusive fragrances for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano glass blowers. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268. M2 Lanza. Map F4

SHOPPING Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has opened its boutique in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda, just steps away from Teatro alla Scala. A Milanese reference point that, since 1907, has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêta-porter and ceremony attire both for men and women but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Via G. Verdi, 2. vallitessuti.com. T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

SHOES Alfonso Garlando Tailor-made, Italian-style shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of materials. Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Fratelli Rossetti Renowned throughout the world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully handcrafted shoes are a

perfect mix of luxury and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to boot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vibram Milan’s first and unique Vibram® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram® sole. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm7.30pm. eu.vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

VIBRAM See this page.

STATIONERY Pettinaroli Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, since its inseption Pettinaroli has been considered a reference point for funs and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gifts items. Its boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted

leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 86464642-1875. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Today’s the day. Buy Apple products tax free by Tax Refund! Only at R-Store!

Find d us in viale Piave 38, via Mercato 22, via Valtellina 12 and CityLife Shopping District. To find out more visit www.rstore.it.

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41

SHOPPING

Chris Cerf

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands. Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe.

●

● Chris Cerf

Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers

you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan. AROUND THE DUOMO For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will

CHRIS CERF Dedicated to women in search of unique, personalized items including printed silk shirts, printed velvet coats, embroidered swimwear and printed silk or cotton dresses. www.chriscerf.com Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 16. T: 335 6175013. M2 Sant’Ambrogio

42 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

THE GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. Here haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops. TOWARDS SANT’AMBROGIO While the Duomo is Milan’s best-known church on an international level, there’s another religious site that’s just as dear to the Milanese. The Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, Milan’s second most important church, is dedicated to the patron saint of the city. In this area, you’ll find the remains of Mediolanum, Roman Milan, including the Forum, the Circus, the walls and, in the subterranean areas of the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, the Cardo and Decumanus. You only need to walk a few streets down from the areas surrounding the Duomo to see a change in the urban landscape: fewer shops of big-name international brands, more old-world ‘botteghe’ and a few unexpected delights. If you wakl from the Duomo in the direction of via Torino, you'll come to via Spadari, home to the cult address of Peck. Several places that are well worth a visit while shopping in the area include Fortura Giocattoli in via Olmetto, a century-old toy mecca that will delight young and old alike. An absolute must-visit! On reaching Sant’Ambrogio, after visiting the Basilica, linger a little longer and explore its surrounding areas. In the same square, at number 16, you’ll find Chris Cerf, a boutique hosting the vibrant, elegant collections created by this well-known designer of Brazilian origin. Just a little further on, after admiring Giulia Colussi’s artistic jewelry in Giardino Calderini, end your tour on a high note and head to via San Vittore to sample or purchase the ‘chocolate gems’ created by Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier, a mustvisit gourmet boutique selling original Belgian, handmade pralines – a totally unmissable treat!

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

SHOPPING

BRERA DISTRICT As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month. The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando. Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35, Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her, the original accessories by Angela Caputi Giuggiù and the unique leather accessories by the new Giosa Milano boutique in via Ciovasso, 6.

● Culti Milano Angela Caputi Giuggiù ● Alfonso Garlando ●

Giosa Milano ● ● The Merchant of Venice ● Pettinaroli

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints. EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca, the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, the Museo Astronomico, the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico.

ART, SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where, amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints.

THE PERFUME DISTRICT At no. 4, we find the new The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com). Our next port of call is via Fiori Chiari, where we find the beautiful window displays of Culti Milano. The brand also has a boutique at no. 53 corso Venezia (www.culti.com). Other must-visits while in the area include Olfattorio Bar-à-Parfums (via Brera 5, www.olfattorio.it), Diptyque (via Brera 23, www.diptyqueparis.eu), Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.com), the new Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina, www. smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com).

GIOSA MILANO In the artistic heart of the city boasting art galleries and small artisans’ workshops, Giosa Milano La Bottega del Coccodrillo is a hidden treasure, a go-to workshop for luxury handmade products created with premium quality crocodile skins. Giorgio Santamaria is a master of this art, by creating with his staff an outstanding total-look, including garments, sneakers and a wide range of accessories. The boutique boasts unique pieces intended to satisfy each customer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

44 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

ALFONSO GARLANDO Since 1971, Alfonso Garlando has been creating his footwear in the name of elegance and the high quality of artisanal, strictly “Made-in-Italy” products. Today, this tradition continues in the heart of Brera with unique, handcrafted items: hundreds of styles produced using premium quality fabrics and skins, for ceremonies, evenings and elegant events but also for comfortable, everyday wear. Customers can also find a collection of ton sur ton bags, belts and clutches, that can be customized according to individual tastes and requirements. www.alfonsogarlando.it Via Madonnina, 1 - T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza

PETTINAROLI Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, Pettinaroli has, since its inception, been considered a reference point for fans and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gift items. On entering this unmistakably Milanese shop in via Brera, customers can breathe in the scent of the past, immersed in a timeless, old-world atmosphere. They can browse amongst shelves of writing paper and exquisite envelopes, historic maps and antique prints, and find numerous items associated with the sophisticated art of writing, including several of the world’s most prestigious fountain pens, leather diaries and planners, goose quill and wood pens. This unique shop also has an unmissable section dedicated to gift items: antique globes, 19th century vintage wood printing press letters, and customizable ex-libris. The jewel in the crown of this space is the magnificent collection of prints lining the wall at the back of the shop, visited daily by aficionados from all over the world. Today the business is run by Francesco Pettinaroli (right). Named after his grandfather, who founded the establishment, Francesco specializes in antique prints, a passion that has made him one of the world’s leading experts. www.fpettinaroli.it - www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com www.facebook.com/PettinaroliMilano Via Brera, 4. T: 02 86464642-1875. M3 Montenapoleone

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PHOTOS © LIDO VANNUCCHI

DINING

Pizza? You can eat it ‘Venetian-style’ The multi-starred Alajmo family, which has won over Europe from its restaurant in the province of Padua, offers a re-interpretation of the symbol of Italian cuisine par excellence in Milan. By Chiara Zaccarelli

ilan finally has a locale signed by the multi-award winning Alajmo brothers. Together with his brother Raffaele, Massimiliano Alajmo, the youngest chef in the world to have received three Michelin stars, manages the kitchens of ten restaurants between his native Veneto and Paris, a line of gastronomic products and an events company. Amor, the name of the Alajmo brothers’ new Milanese venue, was designed by the renowned Philippe Starck, and is located in Corso Como, in the heart of the Milanese movida. But don’t expect an ultra-chic multi-starred restaurant, because Amor re-invents the Milanese fast-casual format with a menu that focuses on steamed

pizza, a light, tasty version patented by Massimiliano Alajmo. At Amor you can choose to eat standing up at the counter or sitting down at one of the tables (however, seated service is only available in the evening). Alternately, you can order take away. Open from breakfast to dinner, you can pop in for a quick, tasty, healthy, light meal. Who’s behind this architectural concept? Philippe Starck has designed the locale bearing the two elements that characterize Massimiliano Alajmo’s cuisine in mind: creativity and ‘Venetian essence’. The result is a modern, well-lit open-plan space, enhanced with a touch of typical Starck audacity, perfectly in keeping with Venice’s irreverent, carefree spirit.

A new concept of pizza, according to Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo

46 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

>> Amor. Corso Como, 10. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 www.alajmo.it/amor

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Cantina Piemontese A top-level “trattoria” with a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful corner of Milan just a short distance from the Duomo. Originally a winery with a prestigious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5

Don Lisander For more than sixty years, a fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The menu features traditional Lombardy and regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Galleria Situated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. www. ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Savini Spread out over three floors in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, for the past 150 years Savini has been one of Milan’s most iconic, landmark restaurants. A favourite haunt of several of the world’s most legendary figures, it continues to be the place where the local elite gather after a night at the opera. Credit for its enduring reputation goes to its blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by the contemporary cuisine of Executive Chef Giovanni Bon. Its wine cellar, boasting more than 800 labels from all over the world, deserves a special mention. Open Mon-Fri 12-noon to 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm and Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Torre The panoramic restaurant, designed to accommodate up to 84 diners, is arranged on three levels of the Torre, inside the Fondazione Prada complex. The decorative elements and artworks covering the walls are by several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists, while the top floor features original furnishings from the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York, designed by Philip Johnson in 1958. The outdoor terrace echoes the porphyry flooring and metal grids characterizing the Foundation’s exteriors, which extend over a surface area of 125 square metres. The seventh floor also hosts a Chef’s table, a private area with a view of the kitchens and a private terrace. The restaurant’s gastronomic

LA PIZZA SAPORE D’ITALIA

VALENTINO VINTAGE

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concept is based on an Italian menu and traditional regional cuisine, accompanied by a prestigious selection of wines. €€€. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via G. Lorenzini, 14. T: 02 23323910. M3 Lodi. Map G7

Valentino Vintage Restaurant Situated inside a historic 17th century building in the heart of Milan, just steps from the Quadrilatero della Moda, this restaurant offers traditional Italian cuisine in a warm, elegant setting. Its atmosphere, inspired by movie icon Rodolfo Valentino, is infused with an old-world charm reminiscent of the Belle Epoque. Its cuisine is deeply rooted in Italy’s culinary traditions and melds typical Mediterranean dishes, created thanks to the use of only the highest-quality ingredients, with innovative flavours, resulting from creative experimentation. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm; Sat 7pm-11pm. Closed on Sun. €€. www.valentinovintage.it. Corso Monforte, 16. T: 02 76394369. M1 San Babila.

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from Campania. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, from June to September, the venue also serves an aperitivo (5pm-7.30pm) accompanied by delicious Neapolitan nibbles. Advance booking is recommended (compulsory in the evening). Open daily 12 noon-midnight. €. Via Canonica, 81 (corner of via Paolo Sarpi). T: 02 36561221. Map D2

TASTING EXPERIENCE Armani/Dolci Via Manzoni 31 is possibly the most glamorous address for Milanese patisserie: Armani/Dolci is a location dedicated by world-renowned designer Giorgio Armani to the world of chocolate and not only. Here you can find elegant pralines, chocolate bars, assorted dragées or fruit preserves, delightful gifts that are perfect for any occasion, also thanks to the store’s elegant, unmistakable packaging. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.armanidolci.com. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 62312686. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

Map F4

INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE

Cova Pasticceria

Denzel One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, America, Asia and South America are combined in delectable, tasty dishes, in a welcoming ambience. It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map C4

PIZZA La Pizza Sapore d’Italia This artisanal pizzeria with a wood-fired oven serves mouth watering pizzas topped with a selection of high-quality Campanian and Italian ingredients. Open daily (even in August) from noon to midnight, you can even get your pizza-fix in the afternoon. Cold dishes are also available as an alternative to pizza. Its coffee and dessert are typically Neapolitan, with fresh daily deliveries

Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look. Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanese-style risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long. Open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Lavazza Italian coffee expert Lavazza has opened its first flagship store in Milan. A go-to destination where coffee lovers can experience the very best that the world of Lavazza coffee has to offer throughout the day. This beautifully designed location offers four different experiential options: w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

DINING

Bakeries

Don’t call them bread shops! Milan’s new bakeries are inspired by British and Northern European models and have rediscovered the use of whole meal flours, ancient grains and traditional bread making techniques. CROSTA You can breakfast on freshly-baked cakes and pastries in the morning, purchase bread and sample pizza on the peel at lunch and throughout the day, while at dinner, there’s pan pizza. Via Bellotti, 13 (corner of via Kramer). T: 02 38248570. Map H4 ÉGALITÉ A corner of Paris in the heart of Milan, Égalité is located in the Porta Venezia district. It’s a kingdom of baguettes and croissants, signed by master boulanger Thierry Loy, and produces bread using ancient varieties of wheat and flour, sourced from an historic mill in the French Alps. Égalité is a bakery and a patisserie, serving breakfast (including baguettes with butter and jam, croissants, pain au chocolat and aux raisin), lunch and aperitivi. www.egalitemilano.it. Via Melzo, 22. T: 02 83482318. Map H3

the “Caffetteria” where visitors can savor an authentic espresso, a “Slow Coffee” area to taste different types of coffee extraction systems, a “Fresh Roasted” area where precious single origins are roasted and blended on site, and the “Coffee Design” area where innovative food design meets the world of coffee in new and surprising flavour combinations, created with top international chefs. Open Mon-Thurs 8am-7.30pm; Fri 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun 9am-8pm. www.lavazza.it/ flagshipstore. Piazza San Fedele, 2. T: 342 8411682. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Marchesi 1824 Pralines and homemade pastries, biscuits and panettone, “veneziana”, chocolates, sweets and over thirty different types of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. It still retains its original early nineteenth century atmosphere and has a counter at which you can drink a cup of coffee accompanied by tiny, mouth watering treats. Pastries baked fresh on a daily basis and for the holiday season. A truly tantalizing experience! Open Mon 7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 7.30am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-7.30pm. www.pasticceriamarchesi. com. Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a. T: 02 876730. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 • Open daily 7.30am-9pm. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76008238. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open daily 7.30am9pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 94181710. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Noberasco 1908 King of dry fruit Noberasco 1908 instantly sealed its success as a reference point for discerning palates and lovers of natural tastes: its products are sourced from all over the world

and include a flotilla of the rarest, most delicious culinary delights. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 11am-7.30pm. www.noberasco.it. Via Spadari. T: 02 99201022. M1 Cordusio, M1-M3 Duomo. Map F2

Peck A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread out over three floors, Peck is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a careful selection of products from all over the world. Don’t miss the “Piccolo Peck”, a gastronomic café at the ground floor reminding a Viennese café of the 30s, where you can relax and taste several specialties. Open Mon 3pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-5pm. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Zàini Milano In 2013, historic Milanese chocolate factory Zàini celebrated its 100th anniversary with the opening of a new space in Milan. A timeless location decked out with period furniture and a counter at which customers can savour authentic cakes, hot chocolate laced with violet flowers or rose buds, sweet treats and bread and chocolate. The ideal place to taste and buy some of the best chocolate in town. Open Mon-Sat 8am-10pm; Sun 8am-7pm. www.zainimilano.com. Via de Cristoforis 5, corner of Corso Como. T: 02 694914449. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

FORNO COLLETTIVO A bakery, a workshop with a kitchen, and a cafeteria, run by a team of internationally renowned master bakers. The bread sold here is produced using only sourdough, focusing on flour varieties obtained from Italian and other wheatsourced exclusively from organic cultivations. Via Lecco, 15. T: 02 21067364. Map G3 LE POLVERI At this light-filled ‘bottega’ you can purchase all types of bread, focacce, oven-baked goods and pizza. All its specialties are based on time-honoured recipes. www.lepolveri.com. via Ausonio, 7. Map D5 PANIFICIO DAVIDE LONGONI At Davide Longoni's two Milanese stores you can purchase all types of bread including naturally leavened loaves, sourdoughs, bread made from stone-milled organic flours and ancient grains. In addition to purchasing bread, you can also get a cappuccino, stop by for lunch or an aperitivo. www.davidelongonipane.com. T: 02 91638069. Via Tiraboschi, 19. Map H6; Mercato del Suffragio, Piazza Santa Maria del Suffragio. Map H5 More on www.wheremilan.com/guide 48 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

CANTINA URBANA Milan now has its own wine. ‘Naviglio Rosso’, the first wine produced entirely in Milan with Oltrepò grapes, was created based on an idea by local wine producer Cantina Urbana. Presented in a limited edition of only 2,500 bottles, this wine consists of 80% Croatina grapes and 20% Barbera, which define its body and depth. www.cantinaurbana.it

Advertorial

Tradition and innovation

since 1867

Since Savini first opened in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it has maintained the timeless

Ristorante Savini Milano 1867

elegance of the Belle Epoque. Savini was the favourite haunt of some of the world’s

Via Ugo Foscolo, 5. T: +39 02 72003433. prenotazioni@savinimilano.it savinimilano.it

most illustrious names, including Verdi, Puccini, Toscanini, Maria Callas, Eleonora Duse and Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, who wrote the Manifest of the Futurist Movement here. Savini recently celebrated its 150th anniversary and boasts a continually evolving legacy in which tradition and innovation are intertwined. In 2007, the Gatto family PHOTOS © ANDREA DI LORENZO

took over the reins of this Milanese landmark restaurant, which is now divided into two spaces: a café/bistro and a restaurant. The café/bistro – open throughout the day – can be accessed from the Galleria and is the ideal place to enjoy a cup of coffee, tea or an aperitivo, while the restaurant is located on the first floor. Here, amidst period furnishings and soft lighting, you can opt for a traditional or more contemporary menu, signed by chef Giovanni Bon. For an impressive business lunch, in an elegant, historic setting, the restaurant offers a business lunch formula, featuring a choice of gourmet dishes.

Giovanni Bon - The chef’s kingdom is the restaurant’s modern, open-plan kitchen. Part Brianzolo and part Veneto, Savini’s Executive Chef Giovanni Bon, whose resume includes work experience at several of Italy’s and the world’s most celebrated restaurants, has made this space his culinary domain of choice. Bon combines traditional recipes with innovative techniques and creativity. Key features of his culinary expertise include the selection of raw materials, respect for the seasons and locally sourced products and cuisine that becomes art, research and flavour. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49

[ TA S T I N G E X P E R I E N C E ]

Dining by district DUOMO DISTRICT CANTINA PIEMONTESE — www.cantina-piemontese.it. “Top-level” trattoria offering tradition Italian regional cuisine. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 CRACCO — www.ristorantecracco.it Milanese cuisine with a contemporary twist. Four floors of sheer culinary heaven. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 876774. M1- M3 Duomo. Map F4 FELICE A TESTACCIO — feliceatestaccio.it. Roman cuisine since 1936. Via del Torchio, 4. T: 02 80506690. M3 Missori. Map E5 GALLERIA — www.ristorantegalleria.it Stylish restaurant and traditional wood-fired pizza. Galleria Vittorio Emanule II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 IL RISTORANTE TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA — www.trussardiallascala.com. Top-rate cuisine and outstanding interior design. Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 IL VERZIERE (C/O NH COLLECTION MILANO PRESIDENT) — nh-collection.com. The finest Italian and international cuisine in an elegant atmosphere. Largo Augusto, 10. T: 02 77461. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 PECK — www.peck.it. Iconic temple of Milanese taste. Every Sunday typical lunch. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 RISTORANTE SAVINI — www.savinimilano.it Gourmet flavours in the Galleria. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT ARMANI/RISTORANTE (C/O ARMANI HOTEL MILANO) — www.armanihotelmilano.com. High-class cuisine in a vibrant atmosphere. Michelinstarred restaurant. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 88838888. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 DON CARLOS (C/O GRAND HOTEL ET DE MILAN) — www.ristorantedoncarlos.it Traditional Italian cuisine in a sophisticated atmosphere. Via A. Manzoni, 29. T: 02 72314640. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Menus at RATANÀ fuse elements of traditional Milanese and Lombard cuisine with the freedom of interpretation typical of modern cooking.

LA VERANDA (C/O FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MILANO)— www.fourseasons. com/milan. Ultra-luxurious restaurant, Mediterranean cuisine, summer outdoor seating. Via Gesù, 6/8. T: 02 77081478. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 NOBU MILAN — www.noburestaurants.com Armani style with traditional Japanese cuisine. Via G. Pisoni, 1. T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 SETA (C/O MANDARIN ORIENTAL MILAN) — www.mandarinoriental.it. Fine dining restaurant in a beautiful setting. Michelinstarred restaurant. Via Monte di Pietà, 16-18. T: 02 87318897. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

BRERA DISTRICT RIGOLO — www.rigolo.it. Lombardy cuisine with a trattoria-like feel. Largo Treves corner of via Solferino, 11. T: 02 86463220. M2 Moscova. Map F3

NAVIGLI-PORTA GENOVA DISTRICT MIERU MIERU — www.mierumieru.it A taste of Puglia with the aromas of the sea and the land. Via Magolfa, 14. T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7 TANO PASSAMI L’OLIO — www.tanopassamilolio.it. Creative cuisine based on extra virgin olive oil with a Mediterranean flare. Michelin-starred restaurant. Via Villoresi 16, corner of via Pastorelli. T: 02 8394139. M2 Porta Genova. Map C7

ISOLA DISTRICT BERBERÈ — www.berberepizza.it Select pizzas with a focus on vegetarian specialities. Via Sebenico, 21. T: 02 36707820. M5 Isola. Map F1 RATANÀ — www.ratana.it. Creative Lombardy cuisine in an historic location. Via G. de Castillia, 28. T: 02 87128855. M2 Gioia, M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F1

PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT ALICE RISTORANTE (C/O EATALY SMERALDO) — www.aliceristorante.it. Mediterranean high-

NOBU MILANO, the restaurant located inside the Emporio Armani store, offers a menu that merges traditional Japanese cuisine with Peruvian and Italian influences.

50 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019

quality cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurant. Piazza XXV Aprile, 10. T: 02 49497340. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 TRE CRISTI MILANO — www.trecristimilano. com. Historic restaurant offering Mediterranean-based cuisine. Via Galileo Galilei, 5 corner of via Marco Polo. T: 02 29062923. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 RISTORANTE BERTON — www.ristoranteberton.it. Essential haute cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurant. Via della Liberazione, 13. T: 02 67075801. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS, M3 Repubblica. Map F2

VERCELLI-BELFIORE DISTRICT DENZEL — www.denzel.it. Kosher restaurant in a welcoming ambience. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. MapC4

STAZIONE CENTRALE DISTRICT ACANTO RESTAURANT (C/O HOTEL PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA) — dorchestercollection.com. Classic Italian cuisine by chef Alessandro Buffolino. Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 SOULGREEN — www.soulgreen.com. An innovative bistro offering gluten-free fare and plant-based products. Piazzale Principessa Clotilde corner of via Vespucci. T: 02 62695162. M3 Repubblica, M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 STK MILAN — Modern steakhouse and elegant lounge. Piazza della Repubblica, 13. T: 02 84220110. M3 Repubblica. Map G2

SEMPIONE DISTRICT PECK — www.peck.it. The best of Italian wine and food in the new iconic district of Milan. CityLife Shopping District. Piazza Tre Torri. T: 02 36642660. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2 TERRAZZA TRIENNALE - OSTERIA CON VISTA — www.osteriaconvista.it High-quality cuisine by Stefano Cerveni, friendly atmosphere, panoramic view. Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 36644340. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

ENTERTAINMENT

Poolside Happy Hour A lounge area with a view winds between the venue’s interior spaces and two terraces with a pool to offer guests one of the most iconic aperitivi in Milan, in perfect New York style! By Giulia Minero

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dazzling 360° view over Milan’s skyline, is an unmissable destination for lovers of breathtaking vistas. In summer, you can sip a selection of prestigious whiskies from the Macallan distillery, or discover a selection of innovative seasonal cocktails created by Bar Manager Guglielmo Miriello, paired with finger food signed by chef Elio Sironi. The cocktail list features a variety of options, including the venue’s timeless ‘Negroni Vintage’ and ‘Italian Beauty, signature cocktails like ‘Bloody Mary with a touch of celery’ and ‘Brooklyn Reloaded’, or non-alcoholic choices, ironically referred to as ‘no hangover drinks’ including ‘Lilikoi’, which features a combination of exotic fruit flavours, spicy notes of saffron and the beneficial properties of Aloe Vera and black tea with bergamot.

>> Ceresio 7 Pools & Restaurant Via Ceresio, 7. T: 02 31039221. Map E2 M5 Monumentale. www.ceresio7.com Elio Sironi

PHOTOS © CERESIO7

ust steps from the Porta Garibaldi district, Ceresio 7 is a place where past and present, design, fashion and leisure time blend for a unique identity. Located on the top floor of a former 1930s industrial building, at number 7 via Ceresio, this trendy Cocktail Bar&Restaurant was given a complete makeover reflecting the creativity of its owners, fashion designers Dean and Dan Caten, aka Dsquared2. Every evening, at its American bar, Ceresio 7 stages one of the city’s coolest aperitivo rituals, amidst dim lighting, vintage objects and paintings inspired by street art and graffiti, including two original lithographs by New York artist Jean-Michel Basquiat. The venue’s outdoor lounge area, which winds between two terraces with a pool, offering a

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APERITIVI

AFTER DINNER

Ceresio 7

Eppol Milano

Owned by fashion brand Dsquared2, this locale is one of the places to be on Milan’s nightlife scene. The venue is a hotspot for the city’s beau monde who flock here to enjoy a glamorous aperitivo on the rooftop of an old 1930s industrial building. In addition to two panoramic swimming pools, the venue boasts an unparalleled view over Porta Nuova and its skyscrapers. Ceresio 7’s Happy Hour includes a series of signature cocktails accompanied by classic finger food. It’s ultra-popular so don’t even think of going there without booking! Open daily 12.30pm-1am. www.ceresio7.com. Via Ceresio, 7. T: 02 31039221. M5 Monumentale. Map E2

Located in the increasingly vibrant Porta Venezia district, Eppol combines a graphic, artistic Milanese background with an atmosphere reminiscent of a 1930s American speakeasy. Décor highlights include exposed brickwork, plant-covered walls, crystal chandeliers and a counter reminiscent of New York locales. Eppol is a bistro and cocktail bar renowned for its painstaking attention to the choice of ingredients. Though oriented towards mixology, its cocktail menu is inventive but not overly experimental. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-1am; Sat-Sun 9.30am-1am. www.eppolmilano.com. Via M. Malpighi, 7. T: 320 0266560. Map H3

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè

Nottingham Forest

At this charming retro, Parisian-style bistrot, located in the equally picturesque Brera district, you can enjoy a cocktail or a glass of wine, surrounded by myriad varieties of plants and flowers (on sale), artfully stripped walls and exposed brickwork ceilings. At the aperitivo hour, you can order a cocktail or a glass of wine from the venue’s rich menu, accompanied by a buffet of vegetables, meatballs and other tasty nibbles. Open Mon-Sat 8am-midnight. www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it. Via Montebello, 7. T: 02 29014390. Map F3

Included in the list of 50 best bars in the world, this locale is a true mecca for cocktail enthusiasts. Go there if you enjoy experimentation and are not afraid of unusual consistencies, gelatins, resins, sprouts and molecular essences. Here, amidst Buddhas, Tiki statues, African masks and tropical plants, you’ll find a diverse clientele, all sharing a common objective: a desire to sample unusual, innovative cocktails. A word to the wise: be patient, the place is tiny, there’s always a large queue outside, and they don’t let large groups in. Open Tues-Sat 6.30pm-2am; Sun 6pm-1am. www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1. T: 02 798312. M1 Palestro. Map H3

N'Ombra de Vin This historic Milanese wine bar, located in a picturesque corner of Milan, next to the Basilica of San Marco, in a one-time 16th century refectory, is packed with customers from aperitivo hour till late at night. A wine bar, bistro and gastro bar rolled into one, it offers a list of prestigious wines with a focus on French labels. In summer, the pavement behind the locale teems with a relaxed crowd of punters. Open daily 10am-2pm. www.winebarnombradevin. it. Via San Marco, 2. T: 02 6599650. M2 Lanza. Map F3

Otto The signature dish at this light-filled, highly instagrammable space, is its ‘quadrotto’, squareshaped slice of bread topped with fresh ingredients. Otto is located in the heart of Chinatown, amidst plants and second-hand pieces of furniture. The venue’s aperitivo menu includes a selection of unique, spicy cocktails flavoured with ginger, matcha or lemon grass, as well as the classics, plus a selection of wines and craft beers. At Happy Hour (no buffet included), customers can accompany their drinks with an assortment of platters or dishes all prepared on the same day with high-quality ingredients. Open Tues-Sun 10am-2am; Sun 7pm2am. www.sarpiotto.com. Via P. Sarpi, 8. Map E2

Rita & Cocktails Listed among Italy’s Top 10 cocktail bars, Rita & Cocktails is a great classic on the Milanese cocktail scene. Located on the Naviglio Grande, in a corner that is delightfully detached from the frenzy of the ‘movida’, this locale is a hot favourite with customers from the aperitivo hour until late at night. Behind the counter, longtime owner Edoardo Nono and his partners serve evocatively named cocktails, inspired by their travels around the world. The cocktails, made using only the freshest, primequality ingredients, are accompanied by crudité, canapés and small tasting dishes prepared on-site by the locale’s chef. If you prefer to down a beer and gorge yourself on buffet food, we suggest you head elsewhere. Open daily 6.30pm-2am. Via A. Fumagalli, 1. T: 02 8372865. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

Radio Rooftop Bar This Milanese hotspot, located on the tenth floor of the Me Milan Il Duca hotel, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, attracts an international clientele and offers a remarkable array of classic cocktails. From sunset onwards, plus points include a breathtaking view over the city, in particular, the Porta Nuova district and its skyscrapers. Another key feature is the music – generally sophisticated house that warms the atmosphere without interrupting conversation. Open Sun-Wed 7pm-1am; Thurs-Sat 7pm-1am. radiorooftop.com. Via Marco Polo, 18. T: 02 84220109. Map G2

Surfer's Den Located on the outskirts of Milan, this charming venue is hidden inside a sports complex and immersed in a semi-wild garden of roses, hydrangeas and surfboards. It’s so far removed from the hustle and bustle of city life that after you’ve sampled one of their cocktails, expertly mixed by its master bartender, you’ll start smelling the sea. Please Note: since this is a sports complex you need a valid annual pass to get in. The pass costs approximately €10. www.surfersden.it. Piazza Caduti del Lavoro, 1. T: 338 5916764. Off Map

The Spirit We’re on the outskirts of Porta Romana, another area that recently saw the opening of numerous locales. As everyone knows, the most unexpected places are always well hidden. In order to gain access to The Spirit, you need to pass through a black, studded door, with a porthole in the middle. Once inside, you’ll find yourself immersed in an ambience reminiscent of a luxurious speakeasy, amidst mahogany counters, velvet sofas, mirrors and lighting adding a touch of intimacy and glamour. The drinks list includes high-quality wines and champagnes, exclusive spirits, the world’s best whiskies, aged bourbons and rare Mezcals, all served by expert bartenders. Open Thurs-Sun 6pm-2am. www.thespirit.it. Via Piacenza, 15. T: 02 84570612. Map G7

ALL CONCERTS ON THE CALENDAR WILL BE HELD AT AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE CARIPLO, LARGO GUSTAV MAHLER. www.laverdi.org

SYMPHONIC SEASON › 2, 3, 5 May Brahms & Dvořàk. Music by Johannes Brahms and Antonin Dvořàk. Zhang Xian, conductor Denis Kozhukhin, piano › 9, 10, 12 May Brahms & Mendelssohn. Music by Johannes Brahms and Felix Mendelssohn. Claus Peter Flor, conductor Filippo Gorini, piano › 17, 19 May Brahms Symphony no. 3 & No. 4. Music by Johannes Brahms. Robert Trevino, conductor › 24, 26 May Šostakovič & Strauss. Music by Dmitrij Šostakovič and Richard Strauss. Jader Bignamini, conductor Francesca Dego, violin › 31 May and 2 June Brahms & Beethoven. Music by Johannes Brahms and Ludwig van Beethoven. Patrick Fournillier, conductor Luca Santaniello, violin Erica Piccotti, cello

CHAMBER MUSIC › 5 May at M.A.C. Musica Arte e Cultura - Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro, 1 SCHUBERT II. Music by Franz Schubert. Domenico Nordio and Lycia Viganò, violin Gabriele Mugnai, viola Mario Shirai Grigolato, cello Kastriot Mersini, double bass Fausto Ghiazza, clarinet Andrea Magnani, bassoon Giuseppe Amatulli, corno › 19 May at M.A.C. Musica Arte e Cultura - Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro, 1 MOZART & STRAUSS. The time of Mozart, a time of fantasy Music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Richard Strauss. Fulvio Luciani, violin Massimiliano Motterle, piano

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STEFANO BOERI ARCHITETTI © PAOLO ROSSELLI

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Beauty refound Raphael’s Cartoon for the ‘School of Athens’, located just a short distance from Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ and Michelangelo’s ‘Pietà Rondanini’, is one of the focal points of Renaissance Milan. By Giulia Minero

54 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

the famous 16th master often worked with the help of other artists. The work has been hung alone in a room in the Pinacoteca. This room, known as the Sala Raffaello, was especially redesigned for the occasion by the architectural firm Stefano Boeri Architetti, and enables visitors to get close enough to see the precision of the charcoal strokes and the realism of the large-scale figures depicted. Information panels and multimedia tools outlining the history, technique and restoration of this masterpiece, complete the exhibition. The presentation of Raphael’s cartoon for public viewing is part of a larger project that includes the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana in the promotional activities and artistic circuit dedicated to Renaissance Milan.

>> Il Raffaello dell’Ambrosiana. In principio il Cartone. Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. Piazza Pio XI, 2. www.raffaeloambrosiana.it

t the height of the celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, the work of another Renaissance artist, Raphael Sanzio, has gone on public view again. After an important restoration lasting four years, Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana has enhanced its artistic and cultural contributions and is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by the Urbino-born artist. The cartoon was created as a preparatory sketch for the large painting commissioned by Pope Julius II to decorate the Stanza della Segnatura in the Vatican, and was entirely hand-drawn by Raphael. This was a truly remarkable because

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FREE WITH Enjoy Milan with the "all inclusive" city pass. www.themilanpass.com - infoline: +39 02 867131

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Ambrosiana, Picture Gallery and Library The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. The Ambrosiana library contains one million books including manuscripts and prints. www.ambrosiana. it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Castello Sforzesco The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Open daily 7am-6pm (winter time); 7am-7.30pm (summer time); Thurs 7am-10.30pm. Free admission. www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map E4

on the bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around inside it, will bring good luck. Don’t miss the Leonardo3-The World of Leonardo da Vinci exhibition with new discoveries: codices, machines, paintings and drawings (from Piazza della Scala at the entrance of the Galleria. Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Open daily 9.30am10.30pm. T: 02 49519981. www.leonardo3.net). Map F4

Last Supper (The) One of the most famous attractions in the world, the “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Reservation required. www. cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 FREE WITH

Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed on and off over a period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan. The cathedral is open daily 8am-7pm. The recently renovated Museo del Duomo (10am-6pm) houses hundreds of works of art dating from the 15th century to the present day. MAJESTIC TERRACES To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles and the famed golden “Madonnina”. www. duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 FREE WITH

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II The Galleria with its elegant, four-storey arcade, housing over 55 luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and measures 196 metres in length. Tradition has it that placing your right heel

on panoramic open-topped red double decker buses, 4 lines with over 40 stops and multi-lingual commentary. A new electric bus is available www.milano.city-sightseeing.it

Navigli District The Navigli are a widespread network of canals whose history is linked to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One of the most vibrant districts in the city, it boasts small artisan workshops and painter’s studios reminiscent of those found on the left bank in Paris. Don’t miss a visit to the Darsena, renewed a few years ago. You can reach the Navigli with the new D Line of the CitySightseeing Milano (Navigli stop, from 2.30pm to 6pm). Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 4. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E6

St. Ambrose Basilica

Duomo

HOP ON HOP OFF TOUR

One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose (patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an area where numerous martyrs had been buried. The church is a wonderful example of Romanesque style. Free admission. www. basilicasantambrogio.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15. T: 02 86450895. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map E5

Teatro alla Scala A few steps from the Duomo, the Teatro alla Scala - designed by Piermarini - was inaugurated in 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. Most of Italy’s greatest operatic artists and many of the finest singers from around the world have appeared at La Scala during the past 200 years. Lying adjacent to the theatre, the Museo Teatrale ( FREE WITH ) and the Scala Shop (T: 02 45483257) are not to be missed destinations for ballet and opera lovers. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72003744. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ambrosiana Picture Gallery The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. Don't miss the "Leonardo da Vinci tour" organized by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala MUST-SEE The Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are housed in three historic buildings overlooking Milan’s elegant via Manzoni, piazza della Scala and via Morone. Two buildings host masterpieces

The Milan Pass (69€) includes:

ENJOY MILAN WITH THE “ALL INCLUSIVE” CITY PASS The exclusive card that offers the best of museums, attractions, city sightseeing, transportation and restaurants in Milan. www.themilanpass.com - Infoline: +39 02 867131

• a nominative pass • a book of vouchers for admission and discounts for a total value of over 400€ • a map of the city Where to purchase The Milan Pass: • on the www.themilanpass.com website • at the Milan Visitor Center • from leading international tour operators • at hotels and participating facilities • on board CitySightseeing buses

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

DOWNLOAD THE MILANO & LEONARDO AUDIO GUIDE FOR FREE by Proedi Media

produced bt the Leonardo3 (L3) Research Center. All interactive experiences are both in English and Italian and the audio guides are available in Italian, English, Russian, German, French, Spanish, Portuguese and Chinese. Open daily 9.30am-10.30, including holidays. www.leonardo3.net. Piazza della Scala (entrance from inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele I). Map F4

MUDEC – Museum of Cultures

Google Play

App Store

Download TravelMate App and insert this code: 56895730 of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent Neo-classical rooms of Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani. A new section features 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo collections. Open: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. Closed on Monday. Full price ticket €10. www. gallerieditalia.com. Piazza della Scala, 6. T: 800.167619. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone.

The exhibit allows visitors to appreciate the many sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic production with interactive stations, fully functioning maschines made from studying Leonardo’s manuscripts, unprecedented physical reconstructions, digital restorations and threedimensional reconstructions of his creations. This is the only place in the world where visitors can see a reconstruction of “The Last Supper” as it was 500 year ago, when Leonardo painted it. The exhibit is

CODEX ATLANTICUS, F. 33 RECTO, LEONARDO DA VINCI (1452-1519)

Map F4

Leonardo3 – The World of Leonardo

Located inside an old industrial building that was formerly part of the Ansaldo complex, MUDEC is a multi-disciplinary hub dedicated to cultures of the world, featuring different spaces that offer visitors a multiplicity of cultural proposals and services, spread out over 17,000 sq.m.: rooms hosting the museum’s collection and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bistrot, a design store, a cafeteria, a restaurant, a library, workshops and a junior space. Open Mon 2.30pm7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri, Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs, Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.mudec.it.T: 02 54917. Via Tortona, 56. M2 Porta Genova. Map C6

Musei del Castello Sforzesco Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculptures and musical instruments are housed in Castello Sforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The building alone is well worth a visit. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm, closed on Mondays. Full price ticket €5. Free admittance: after 4.30pm every day except Fri; always free for children under 18. www. milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. T: 02 88463703. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map D3

Museo del Design Italiano NEW Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, the Museo del Design Italiano, hosts a selection of the most representative pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. Spread over a surface of 1,300 sq.m, the over 200 works on exhibit are part of the Triennale collection and are displayed in chronological order to provide insights into the history, creative period and context in which each work was designed, as well as the influence they had on daily life objects. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Full ticket price €18 (exhibition XXII Triennale di Milano Broken Nature included). www.triennale.org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Off Map

Museo del Duomo

Pages of art and genius

Celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana began in December 2018 with the first of four exhibitions exploring various aspects of Leonardo’s art, including the different drawing techniques that the artist introduced in Milan, his engineering, architectural and scientific studies and his artistic activity during the years that he spent in France. Although the focal point of the exhibitions is the Codex Atlanticus, the most important and complete collection of manuscripts in the world, featuring an amazing collection of 1,119 autograph sheets illustrated with 1,750 drawings, for reasons of preservation each exhibition presents a different set of sheets. The second exhibition, which will run until 16 June, will feature 23 of the most important and famous sheets detailing projects for war machines and studies on civil engineering. In particular, the latter include hydraulic devices, machines for making ropes, manufacturing textiles and producing mechanical tools like punches and automatic spit-roasters. The secrets of the Codex Atlanticus. Leonardo at the Ambrosiana (second part) Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Piazza Pio XI, 2. www.ambrosiana.it

56 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019 2017

Totally refurbished in 2013, the museum houses and highlights all the material not presently in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. Comprising 2,000 square metres of space, twenty seven rooms and thirteen thematic areas, the museum hosts more than two hundred sculptures and over seven hundred gypsum models and then again paintings, stained glass windows, tapestries and architectural models ranging from the 15th century to the present day. Worthy of particular note are the rooms of the Tesoro, Tintoretto’s “Jesus Among the Doctors”, the imposing wooden model of the cathedral built in 1519 and the tiles of the fifth door of the Duomo by Lucio Fontana and Luciano Minguzzi. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Wednesday and 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full price ticket €6. Cumulative ticket 15€ (Terraces of the Duomo by lift, Museum and Tesoro and the Baptistery of San Giovanni alle Fonti). http://museo.duomomilano.it. Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 72022656. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 FREE WITH

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci

| SIGHTSEEING NEW OPENING

Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections explore the relationship between men and machines starting from the ingenious inventions of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci. Open Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.00pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 9.30am6.30pm. Full ticket €10 ( FREE WITH ) + Guided tour inside the Enrico Toti submarine €8. www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21. T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Museo Teatrale alla Scala Founded in 1913, it recently underwent an important makeover and is dedicated to the history of the famous Milan Opera House with a vast collection of musical instruments and documents dedicated to famous musicians, including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors can look into the theatre, provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stage directions. Open Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am-12.30am/1.30pm-5.30pm. Full ticket €6. Museo Teatrale alla Scala + Museo Poldi Pezzoli €9 (Monday only). www.teatroallascala.org. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473. T: 02 7423. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Pinacoteca di Brera Opened to the public in 1809, the Pinacoteca di Brera is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. The Pinacoteca hosts one of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy. The new layouts of its rooms is scheduled for completion by 2018. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.15pm (Thurs 8.30am-10.15pm, the entrance price is 2 euro starting from 6pm until 10.15pm - ticket office closure at 9.40pm). Full ticket price €10. pinacotecabrera.org. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3 FREE WITH

MUSEO DEL DESIGN ITALIANO The 200 objects featured in the brand - new permanent exhibition at the Triennale Milano’s Italian Design Museum tell the story of 30 years of radical experimentation in the field of design in which new materials, new techniques and new aesthetic codes revolutionized the established order within the domestic sphere and beyond. www.triennale.org

Pirelli HangarBicocca A former industrial plant, HangarBicocca is a lively cultural space dedicated to the production, display and promotion of contemporary art. Permanent exhibitions include “I Sette Palazzi Celesti”, the monumental towers created by German artist Anselm Kiefer and an installation by Fausto Melotti “La Sequenza”, located outside. HangarBicocca features a number of spaces designed to accommodate various initiatives and free events. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-11pm. Closed on MonTues-Wed. Free admission. www.hangarbicocca.org. Via Chiese, 2. T: 02 661115 73. M5 Ponale. Off Map

Triennale Milano The Triennale Milano is one of the most vibrant, popular and important exhibition centres in the city. Featuring annually changing exhibitions of note, it also owns the most important permanent collection of design works. This fantastic museum is brimming with endless installations originating from brilliant minds all over the world. It has a superb media library on design, art and architecture. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm (last admission 1 hour before closing time). Closed on Monday. Full ticket €10. www.triennale.org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3 FREE WITH w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 57

ESSENTIALS

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm). Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900.

Ordinary ticket (1.50€) Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or the metro (one trip only). Day ticket (4.50€) Valid 24h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Two-day ticket (8.25€) Valid 48h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Check rates for the extra-urban subway. Tickets to Rho Fieramilano: 2.50€ (return ticket 5€)

Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors. NEW A further step in the digital transformation of Milan’s public transport: today you can travel on the metro by paying fast and safe at the ticket gate with Mastercard, Visa, Maestro and VPay contactless cards.

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 59

ESSENTIALS UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

Emergency • EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

Trains TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains. • Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Airports MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) - (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’. Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304. Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station (Stazione Cadorna). Travel time 40' ca. Trenord (www.malpensaexpress).it. Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949. MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com BREAKING NEWS Milano Linate Airport will close from 27 July to 27 October 2019 for runway repairs and airport restyling. All flights will be moved to Malpensa or Orio al Serio. Contact your airline for flight info. • Connection to Milano Linate ATM 73 > Bus from Via Gonzaga (M1-M3 Duomo). Travel time: 30’-40'. Ticket € 1.50. www.atm.it. T: 02 48607607. Autostradale > Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time: 30’. Ticket € 5. www.autostradale.it. T: 02 72001304. ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) - (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. • Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’. Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5.

Tourist Information INFOMILANO - TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE - infotourist@comune.milano.it YESMILANO TOURISM SPACE - Via dei Mercanti, 8. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.yesmilano.it

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. NEW A new electric bus is available. A Line: Castello, Cenacolo, Sant'Ambrogio, Navigli, Università Statale, Duomo, La Scala, Arena. B Line: Castello, Triennale, Corso Como, Stazione Centrale, Buenos Aires, San Babila, Brera. C Line: Castello, Garibaldi, Monumentale, Fieramilanocity, Stadio

San Siro, Parco Sempione. NEW D Line: Castello, Cadorna, Navigli. Combo tickets for top Milan attractions can be purchased on board at special prices. Download for free the “Sightseeing Experience” App for your walking tour (DuomoScala-Quadrilatero della Moda-Brera-Castello Sforzesco) and to discover the bus stops and the timetable. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it Map E4 MILANO WOW - ITALIAN TOURS A new platform

offering the best selection of tours and activities in Italy. For info and booking: 391 7319598 – booking@milanowow.com. www.milanowow.com

OPEN TOUR MILAN - Two tours and more than 37

stops to discover Milan on board modern doubledecker buses. Line 1 "City Center". Line 2 "Sporting". Prices: Adults 22€ (2 consecutive days 25€); Child (5 -15 years), 9.50€; 0-4 years free; Family: from 60€. Tickets onboard, online at www.milanopentour. com, at Open Tour Milan Office by Frigerio Viaggi (via De Amicis, 57 - M2 S. Ambrogio. T: +39 02 83123903), and through over 800 official resellers in Italy. www.milanopentour.com. Map E3 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61

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Where Milan Magazine 5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Matteotti – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP ADI Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio –Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2

Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1 Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP LaGare Hotel Milano – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP