Where Turin 8 May 2019

TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

MAY 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ TURIN

ALL YOU CAN DO IN MAY Top events and places to be

DISCOVER THE ALLURE OF PIEDMONT

Several destinations for an out-of-town experience

Leonardo da Vinci Drawings of a genius

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

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ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO

In addition to a selection of rare and beautiful works, Turin’s Royal Library (below) hosts severable priceless manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci, including his ‘Codex on the Flight of Birds’ (on the right), featuring his studies on flight, and 13 autograph sheets, including his famous ‘Self-Portrait’ (above). www.museireali.beniculturali.it

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Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2019, © ROBERTO BIGANO - LEONARDO 3 BIBLIOTECA REALE DI TORINO

Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy!

2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world.

Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Publisher ® Rome will host a series of special events.

Where The full program of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers.

While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting.

If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy.

Happy hunting!

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CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

IV Manning

Turin <May 2019 12

the guide

INSIDER TIPS

24 SHOPPING

32 FOOD&WINE NZ

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Information and tips to experience the best that Turin has to offer.

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Several go-to shopping destinations offering year-round S A N D O N ATO discounts outside of Turin.

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Palazzo Madama, a mustvisit venue that enthralls visitors with its works of art housed in an elegant Baroque palace.

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avant-garde wineries, world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes.

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Some of the best examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture.

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Parco della Tesoriera

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Take advantage of your stay in Turin to enjoy a pick of the best high-quality items.

VIA GUIDO REY

PIAZZA MASSAUA Giardino ex Venchi Unica

VIA ADAMELLO

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Chiesa La Visitazione PIAZZA DEL MONASTERO

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Where® Turin takes you a journey to discover key places and CAM PIDOGLIO unmissable activities along the banks of the Po river.

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a short distance from Turin, is the ideal place to immerse yourself in the history of vermouth, the Torinese distillate par excellence.

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Centro Piero della Francesca

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This month’s round-up of art exhibitions, music and local attractions.

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COVER Portrait of an Old Man

by Leonardo da Vinci (Musei Reali).

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Enjoy the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.

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Several destinations for an out-of-town experience

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Top events and places to be

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The restaurant and panoramic terrace of the Les Petites Madeleines are connected by a shared common thread: a tribute to local tradition.

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At Grezzo Raw Chocolate, located just a short distance from via Roma, chocolate is no longer a transgression.

Jo Malone

V I A PA G A N E L L I

Parrocchia Santa Gianna

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The Jo Malone London boutique offers customers a personalized shopping experience.

Camera di commercio di Torino

Chiesa Ortodossa rumena di Santa Croce

Università Ch degli Studi di Torino

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 2

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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification.

Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 4 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

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artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era.

The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2

headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600.

The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4

MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3

PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5

PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the

VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when

MORE AT PAGE 38 MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

© MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 9

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ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avantgarde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

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© MICHELE D’OTTAVIO

MUSEO Nazionale del CINEMA

6 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

A vertical journey amidst the ‘stars’ One of the most important film museums in the world, the − Museo Nazionale del Cinema is not only renowned for its rich collection of exhibits, but also for its unique location in the beautiful Mole Antonelliana, one of the city’s most impressive historic landmarks.

−

Featuring a unique, vertical layout, it spirals upwards, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary.

Organized by levels, not floors, in addition to a vast film library − containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum’s rich heritage includes collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema (level + 5 metres),

the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (+10), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history, and the ‘Rampa’ which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above. The ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (+15) is dedicated to the film industry, while the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ is located on level +18.

A major highlight of the visit is the building’s panoramic elevator − which takes visitors on a ride, up 85 metres, to the ‘Tempietto’, an observation deck offering a breathtaking view over the city and its surrounding Alpine range.

The braver of heart can also access the panoramic deck on foot − from the ground floor to discover the places hidden inside the cavity of the dome. c/o Mole Antonelliana, via Montebello, 20. www.museocinema.it

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© DANIELA PINI

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

8 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

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HOT DATES MAY

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

BY ELENA PEVERATA

OPERA

22 28

ROSSINI’S ‘TURKISHNESS’

◄ An Italian shipwrecked and MAY kidnapped in Algiers.

This is the story (thought to have been inspired by a real-life event) that Gioachino Rossini used to express the idea of ‘Turkishness’ in his music. Rossini made extensive use of janissary percussion including cymbals, triangles, bass-drum, military glockenspiel and bells, often referred to as the ‘Gran Banda Turca’. The opera was a huge success.

Gioachino Rossini, The Italian Girl in Algiers Teatro Regio di Torino. Piazza Castello, 215 www.teatroregio.torino.it

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES LEONARDO

15 14

SELF PORTRAIT OF A GENIUS

► Over fifty drawings tell the story of Leonardo da Vinci’s research in science and art. The exhibition at the Royal Museums focuses on the sheets housed in Turin’s Royal Library, and includes APRIL JULY thirteen drawings, his better known Codex on the flight of birds, and his extraordinary ‘Portrait of an Old Man’, believed to be a selfportrait. The exhibition also showcases works by several renowned masters who were Leonardo’s contemporaries including Andrea del Verrocchio, Pollaiolo, Bramante, Michelangelo and Raphael.

Leonardo da Vinci. Drawing the future Musei Reali. Piazzetta Reale, 1 www.mostraleonardo.it

EXHIBITION

17 26

BELLE EPOQUE ELEGANCE

◀ This is a journey to discover Art Nouveau (known as Stile Floreale or Stile Liberty in Italy and Jugendstil APRIL JANUARY in Germany). The artistic and 2019 2020 philosophical movement was developed between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, and was characterized by the decorative elegance of soft, sinuous lines. Posters, paintings and ceramics offer insight into this extraordinary artistic and artisanal movement that changed decorative taste at the beginning of the 20th century.

Art Nouveau. The Triumph of Beauty Sale dei Paggi, Reggia di Venaria Reale Piazza della Repubblica, 4 - Venaria Reale (Torino) www.lavenaria.it

MUSIC

►“Jazz is Dead!” is the thought-provoking name MAY chosen by the organizers of this festival to highlight how this musical genre associated with the past, now comes to grips with new, futuristic sounds. The festival features a line up of artists from different classical genres, who have adopted the lessons imparted by jazz developing them according their own styles. The festival will be held in an evocative setting, the former Cemetery of San Pietro in Vincoli that is now used as a cultural space to host music, events and performances.

Jazz is Dead!

Ex cimitero di San Pietro in Vincoli. Via S. Pietro in Vincoli, 28 - www.jazzisdeadfestival.it 10 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

Raia & Fiorito

© SALVATORE PAGANO

24 26

JAZZ IS DEAD, LONG LIVE JAZZ

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PHOTOGRAPHY

9 1 MARCH

JULY

THE UNIVERSAL POWER OF LITERATURE

► Steve McCurry’s exhibition hosted in the Medieval Courtyard of Palazzo Madama pays tribute to readers around the world that he photographed over his nearly four decades of travel. The 65 photographs show people reading books, newspapers and magazines in diverse settings, which cross cultural and socioeconomic boundaries. These include places of prayer in Turkey, streets and markets in Italy, India, Eastern Asia, Afghanistan, Cuba, Africa and the United States.

Steve McCurry. Reading Palazzo Madama. Piazza Castello www.palazzomadamatorino.it MANDALAY, BIRMANIA, 2013 © STEVE MCCURRY

CONTEMPORARY ART

21 26

THE CONTRADICTIONS OF KENYA

◄ Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo presents the first solo exhibition by Kenyan artist Michael Armitage. Armitage’s work explores the contradictory dynamics of modern-day Kenya through a system of references to the history of art, rock art, Egyptian hieroglyphics, Titian, Goya, Velazquez and Manet.

FEBRUARY

MAY

Michael Armitage. The Promised Land Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo. Via Modane, 16 www.fsrr.org

GREEN

24 26 MAY

THREE DAYS OF FLOWERS, LEAVES AND BEAUTY

▶ ‘Flor’, the spring horticultural show, which transforms the centre of the city (around piazza Carlo Alberto) into an enormous flowering garden, returns to the streets of Turin for one week. The event features hundreds of exhibitors from all over Italy, who gather in the city to showcase their beautiful floral offerings that embellish gardens, terraces, balconies and interiors.

Flor Primavera 2019 Via Carlo Alberto and its surroundigs www.facebook.com/flor.di.orticola.piemonte www.orticolapiemonte.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11

© FABIO MANCINO PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

Riverside 12 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

Turin

Turin and the large river that flows through the city and has influenced its history for over two centuries are inseparable. For this reason, WhereÂŽ Turin takes you a journey to discover key places and unmissable activities to enjoy all the appeal of the city and the banks of the Po river.

BY GIULIA MINERO

T

urin is a city of dichotomy, and is often thought to have two souls: the industrial soul associated with its large factories and several of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most influential companies, and another, more noble soul that is committed to culture and discovering the history and beauties of a city that was the first capital of Italy. But not many people know that the Savoy city has a third, greener side, consisting of parks, walks and waterways scattered around a single, large basin: the Po river. The banks of the river are the ideal place for an open-air outing that includes nature parks and places of culture, in addition to the world of sports and food. See for yourself! w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. comâ&#x20AC;&#x2021; 13

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© MARCO SARACCO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A STROLL THROUGH GREEN SURROUNDINGS Our tour starts with some history. It’s important to know that since the city was founded, more than 2,000 years ago, the Po has always functioned as the sea for Turin, as a transport and trade route for goods and people. So it is not surprising that lush parks and ancient aristocratic dwellings can be found just a short distance from its banks. The most noteworthy is Parco del Valentino, one of Turin’s largest ‘green lungs’, which extends for over 10 hectares on the left bank of the Po. Today, Torinese of all ages visit this sprawling park to run, picnic or indulge in a few leisurely hours of canoeing. The park’s interior houses numerous treasures including a botanical garden, the Castello del Valentino, a former Savoy residence, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, now home to the Turin Politecnico’s faculty of architecture, and a village of medieval inspiration. The history of the village is also interesting. This was not merely the restoration of an ancient complex that had fallen into disuse, but rather building an ad hoc village to house the pavilion of ancient art at the General Italian Exposition of 1884. By staying true to the canons of medieval construction techniques, architecture and decorations, the complex became an integral part of the cultural heritage of the park. Other highlights include the large Fountain of the Seasons and Months, a celebratory work in rococo style that is further enhanced by plays of water and light (castellodelvalentino. polito.it; borgomedievaletorino.it).

If you bike or walk from the park, and follow the course of the Po and the lazy flow of its waters, you’ll reach Corso Moncalieri, on the opposite side of the river, where nature lovers can indulge in a romantic walk in the Ginzburg Garden, one of the Savoy family’s favourite parks. Located at the foot of Monte dei Cappuccini, this green space, dotted with age-old chestnut trees, enjoys a clear view over the Po River and acts a point of connection between the nearby canoeing clubs.

14 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

© MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

TURIN AND ITS WATER The banks of the Po River, located on the long stretch of land that runs from Parco del Valentino to the Church of the Gran Madre di Dio, are go-to meeting places for lovers of water sports. It was here, in the late 1800s, when the Po’s embankments had not yet been built, that the first canoeing clubs, initially only reserved for men, sprung up.

One of the first was the ‘Cerea’ canoeing club, which takes its name from the greeting that the Torinese exchanged on meeting each other while out walking. Today, there are more than 10 clubs and sports associations, several of which are for members only, where people can practice canoeing or hire a canoe and paddle down the Po river while admiring the view from a different perspective. The origins of the Murazzi, the characteristic landing stages and boat sheds located on the banks of the Po, were used until the end of the 1950s. Since losing their original function, the term Murazzi is now commonly associated with the long walkway lying in correspondence to the high walls that act as a dyke, and run as far as Piazza Vittorio Veneto, one of Turin’s favourite nightlife spots.

DINING “PIEDS DANS L’EAU”

There is nothing more perfectly typical than dining alongside a river, while sitting comfortably in an outdoor area with a view, savouring typical dishes of Piedmontese tradition. These are the plus points of Imbarco Perosino, one of the favourite haunts of Torinese locals set at the foot of Castello Valentino, where you can sample typical buffet-style antipasti, including anchovies in a green sauce and vitello tonnato, as well as roasts, bagna caoda, Piedmontese mixed fries and homemade desserts. >> Viale Virgilio, 53. T: 011 657362. www.ristoranteperosino.net

ON THE ROAD TO TASTE If your long walk has made you hungry, you’re in luck, because our tasting tour starts just a few steps from the Murazzi, at the Cannavacciuolo Bistrot. This bistro, which recently earned a prestigious Michelin star, features furnishings inspired by the philosophy of Feng Shiu and offers a menu based on traditional Italian cuisine, where typical ingredients of Southern cuisine are mixed with the flavours of the North, reflecting the two souls of chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo (www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it). Those in search of a restaurant with a convivial atmosphere can choose to lunch or dine at Aroma. Here, at number 23 via Monferrato, its young chef Diego Lamarca skillfully mixes locally sourced ingredients infused with international flavours to offer diners a gastronomic experience based on seasonality. In order to taste a little of everything, choose the tasting menu, featuring four courses chosen by the chef, including desserts (www. aromaristorante.torino.it). There’s also good news for those who prefer fusion to Italian cuisine.

Bomaki, a well-known uramakeria, located in the heart of the Murazzi, combines the Japanese tradition of sushi with the tropical flavours

of Brazil, to create surprising pairings.

We strongly recommend a caipirinha prepared on the spot, and interpreted in various versions including papaya, maracuja, mango or acerola to accompany your favourite dishes, including uramaki, tartare, temaki, burritos and warm offerings (www.bomaki.it). Every day, Lobelix II, in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, stages one of the city’s coolest aperitivo rituals.

Whether you decide to sit inside or in its outdoor space overlooking the Church of the Gran Madre di Dio, the Po and Monte dei Cappuccini, you can sip a vermouthbased cocktail – the Torinese aperitivo par excellence; a fortified wine aromatized with herbs – accompanied by snacks or indulge in a post-prandial drink (www.facebook.com/lobelix2). If you have a sweet tooth, or are in search of a gourmet breakfast to start your day, head to Pasticceria Sabauda, in Corso Casale 2, an historic bar and pasticceria with an old world atmosphere which offers a rich choice of bite-sized pastries, including fresh pastries and traditional dry Piedmontese biscuits, all in mise-en-bouche format, as well as a selection of Viennese specialties.

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE We’ve compiled a short guide offering ideas for him and her. A great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments browsing the boutiques in the centre of Turin, while enjoying the discreet, elegant charm of the Piedmontese capital.

GIORGIO ARMANI▼

For the S/S 2019 collection, the iconic, clean-cut lines of Giorgio Armani’s eyewear creations are enhanced with an innovative Signature logo. A tribute to the glamour of contemporary high-end fashion. www.armani.com

► MONTBLANC Featuring a stainless steel case, a mother-of-pearl dial with a date display and an alligator strap, the Montblanc ‘Bohème Automatic’ combines the best of fine watchmaking with a distinctive feminine design. www.montblanc.com

16 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

LOUIS VUITTON ► Entirely printed with the Monogram pattern, a hallmark feature of the Louis Vuitton design, this soft ‘Monogram Denim’ shawl adds a touch of casual-chic to all spring looks. www.louisvuitton.com

◄ JO MALONE LONDON A refined decorative bottle featuring nature-inspired patterns houses the ‘Cade & Cedarwood Cologne’ fragrance. The aromatic notes of cedarwood and cade mingle with a mouth watering hint of vanilla for an all-enveloping scent. www.jomalone.com

PIQUADRO ▶ Elegant and versatile, this computer bag in vermillion red from the ‘Lol’ collection has a zip closure, internal pockets for other items and a trolley strap. www.piquadro.com

▶ MIU MIU The neoprene trend has taken the world of footwear by storm. These geometrically shaped pointy-toe pumps with a sculpted, kitten heel are a perfect example of the celebrated Italian brand’s signature style. www.miumiu.com

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Milanese women share a bucket list of ‘girly’ things to do in town 20-26 February Milano Moda Donna fashion shows Head to Rinascente for the best shopping in Milan

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MONTHS TO 31 OCT AY

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MONTHS

AUTUMN IN MILAN

4-21 SEPTEMBER MITO MUSIC FESTIVAL 182 events in 94 venues

FROM 1 M

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TASTING EXPERIENCE In love with Italian food

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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Get ready for the winter sales

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CELEBRATING OUR TENTH YEAR IN THE WORLD CAPITAL OF SHOPPING

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WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER

The Regge Sabaude In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifies to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. B Y G I U L I A M I N E R O

Reggia di Venaria Reale 18 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729,

and is only 10km as the crow flies from Piazza Castello.

In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts. In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry.

The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy.

During the 17th century, it was converted

Reggia di Venaria Reale Chapel of Saint Hubert

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REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result

of work by several prominent architects of the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events.

Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelinstarred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it

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he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the best-preserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite city-based residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.

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Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions.

The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org

Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga)

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Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

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Discovering Piedmont

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

20 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

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his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the LangheRoero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.”

This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today.

In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display

of changing colours and softly rolling hills.

Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge.

THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions

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artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni. it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it).

Historic wine cellar in Langhe

are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane. com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times.

The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia. it). In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats.

If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www. giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www.

castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it).

MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing visitors about the history, landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum also organizes initiatives and events targeted at highlighting the historical characteristics of the place. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels.

These works of arts, carved and modeled by

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com).

For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www.salsicciadibra.it).

Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www.agenziadipollenzo.com). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO Vicolungo The Style Outlets Torino Outlet Village

NOVARA

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Not far from Turin, in Piedmont, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts all year-round.

BERGAMO BRESCIA TRIESTE

MILANO

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TORINO

ALESSANDRIA

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Mondovicino Outlet Village

PIACENZA

BOLOGNA

Serravalle GENOVA Designer Outlet

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

MAR ADRIATICO

THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

MAR LIGURE

VENTIMIGLIA

Torino Outlet Village

RIMINI

PISA FIRENZE LIVORNO

SIENA

ANCONA Serravalle Designer Outlet

Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA VICOLUNGO THE STYLE SERRAVALLE DESIGNER MONDOVICINO OUTLET TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE OUTLETS OUTLET VILLAGE Torino Outlet Village is an elegant Situated 40 minutes from Turin, in The largest Designer Outlet in Situated 1 hour from Turin, in and relaxing place to spend a the province of Novara, this is the Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle the province of Cuneo, it offers day’s shopping, thanks also to PESCARA ideal place to spend an exciting is located 90 minutes away from a unique shopping experience top-end restaurants and services CORSICA day’ s tour where shopping, Turin’s city center.

Its beautiful combining the appeal of the for families. Open 7 days a entertainment and relaxation setting combines all the appeal of fashion brands with the beauties week, 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and ROMA combine to satisfy all desires. Open luxury designer brands with the of the environment (between festivities 10am-9pm).

7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. beauties of the surrounding area. the Langhe in Piedmont and the • WHERE: at just 15 minutes from • WHERE: take the A4 Torino• WHERE: take the A21 and the Ligurian coast). Open 7 days a the centre of Turin, 30 minutes MAR TIRRENO Milano motorway and exit at A26 motorways and exit to Novi week from 10 am to 8 pm. from the main cities in Piedmont Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle Ligure. From the railway stations • WHERE: take the A6 Torinoand 75 minutes from Milan, near NAPOLImotorway and exit at service is available from Milan. of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Savona the exits from the A4 and A5 Departure from Turin Piazza Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can Mondovì.

Free shuttle service is motorways, the Outlet is easy to Carlo Felice, 63 (in front of Porta catch a shuttle bus running every available from Turin, departure reach at Settimo Torinese. Daily Nuova train station) at 10am. For day from 9am to 8.20pm. from Turin (Corso Vittorio shuttle bus service from the information and reservation: 02 • WHAT: a unique shopping Emanuele II corner of via Sacchi) city centre and a weekly service 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. experience with 300 of your at 9.15am, return at 4.50pm from the main tourist resorts inSARDEGNA • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer favourite designer brands – from the outlet to Turin. For Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. stores – including Armani, Missoni, Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo information and reservation: 011 • WHAT: a must for all shopping Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Boss, Bluemarine, Versace, La 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. lovers, Torino Outlet Village offers Calvin Klein and Twin Set – Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious 90 stores (Armani, Coach, Gucci, offering clothing for the whole Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, designer stores – including La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, family, sportswear, homeware and Casadei and many more… – Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and beauty products at discounted for up to 30-70% less all year Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, more) specializing in clothing, prices of up to 70% all year round. round.

Multiple services include Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo – offering accessories and footwear, • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo free Wifi, multilingual staff, a clothing for men, women and household articles, sport and The Style Outlets also hosts art children’s playground, café and children, sportswear, homeware personal care under top Italian exhibitions, events and other restaurants for a perfect shopping and beauty products at and international labels, and with initiatives for a enjoyable day’s experience at unbelievable prices! discounted prices of up to 70% all discounts of up to 70% all yearouting. www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle year round. www.mondovicino.it round. www.torinooutletvillage.com 22 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

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© PHOTOS: ALFONSO CATALANO - SGPITALIA

SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

Tailor-made fragrances Jo Malone’s Turin-based boutique is the go-to place for those searching for customized fragrances for men, women, the home, as well as scented candles and body treatments. By Giulia Minero

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he Jo Malone London boutique, located in the heart of via Lagrange, in a sophisticated space decorated in shades of black and ivory, reminiscent of the brand’s packaging, offers customers a personalized shopping experience. At this must-visit space, lovers of signature fragrances can choose their favourite perfume from among notes of Lime Basil & Mandarin, Pomegranate Noir, Red Roses and Grapefruit, and take advantage of the ‘Fragrance Combining’ option which allows you to create a fragrance that is uniquely your own, by layering and pairing different scents from the collection. To make the Jo Malone London multisensory experience even more exclusive, each product, from candles to perfumes, is wrapped in tailor-made packaging, adapted 24 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

to the customer’s tastes. The Turin-based boutique features a dedicated Tasting Bar™ where, in addition to indulging in a relaxing hand and arm massage, customers can discover and experiment with creams and body lotions best suited to their needs and preferences. At the boutique, a team of experts is always on-hand for a Bridal Consultation. In addition to helping customers select the fragrances and candles with which to decorate their location of choice, they’ll help the bride choose a scent that will make her special day especially unforgettable. >> Jo Malone London Via Lagrange 4/A. T: 011 4546467. Map F4. www.jomalone.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers.

MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47).

SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings.

Ask your concierge.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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Atelier Nina Tauro

Established in 2006 in the vibrant San Salvario district, this workshop produces a variety of hat styles, including unique, handmade models in fabric, felt, leather and crochet. All materials are carefully selected, with a particular focus on quality.

Inserts and details, including flowers, buckles, lace and trimmings, are prevalently vintage. In addition to winning the ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ award from Piedmont in 2009, in 2010 the Atelier was awarded the Slow Fashion registered trademark by CNA Turin which guarantees 100% Made in Italy quality and workmanship. The Atelier also creates made-to-order hats for brides and special occasions. Open Tues-Sat 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 26/C. Off Map

Ombrellificio Torinese Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, this artisanal workshop has created bespoke umbrellas since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the fifth generation of the founding family, makes numerous models, sewing the rib tips by hand and assembling the multi-coloured fabrics and materials. Customers can personalize their own umbrellas, choosing from different fabrics, embroidery, shafts and edgings. The handles in acacia or transparent resin can be filled with copper threads, shells, ribbons or dried flowers… a real sartorial, tailor-made umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 9.30am-6pm; Tues 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs by appointment only; Sat 8am-12noon. www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, 23/b. T: 011 852104.

Off Map

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

SIGHTSEEING

The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.

Vicolungo The Style Outlets, a unique lifestyle experience

Vicolungo The Style Outlets is a go-to destination for those wishing to enjoy a unique Italian lifestyle experience. The centre is located just 40 minutes from Turin and is easily accessible by car (A4 Motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). The centre hosts 150 boutiques with year-round 30-70% discounts off the retail price, featuring more than 300 top Italian and international brands including Armani, Cavalli Class, Missoni, T Trussardi, Patrizia Pepe, Baldinini, Borbonese, Twin-set, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Guess. The outlet also stocks several of the world’s most coveted sportswear brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour. Vicolungo The Style Outlets is close to Turin and is connected to the city centre via a convenient shuttle service which departs on Saturdays and Sundays at 10am from Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova station.

The Vicolungo outlet offers its customers numerous services including tax-free shopping, free Wi-Fi, a book sharing space, a designated pet area and mini-bike-sharing for kids.

To end your day’s shopping on a relaxing note, make sure to sample the typically Italian cuisine offered by Vicolungo The Style Outlet’s numerous bars and restaurants.

Additionally, by presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price, at participating shops. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm.

It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577.

Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Open MonSat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8.

T: 011 4407207. Map F4 CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. T: 011 5613226. Map F4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. wwT: 011 5066699. Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5.

T. 011 5625977. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632.

Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open MonSat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: 011 546971. Map F4 ITALIA INDEPENDENT— www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704.

Map F5 L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. T: 011 5620678. Map E5 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050.

Map E5 MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4

The adjustable chain strap of this MICHAEL KORS top-handle bag is designed for maximum versatility.

26 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172.

Map E5

This SWAROVSKI necklace with a circle pendant features a contemporary yet classic timeless design.

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2.

T: 011 5618744 Map F4 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109.

Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203.

Map F4 ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532.

Map F3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940.

Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis.

T: 011 3852651. Off Map WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6.

T: 011 531348. Map F5

SHOPPING Regina Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux and auteur fragrances. www.reginashoes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029.

Map I6

Turineyes If you’ve always dreamt of a bespoke pair of glasses, leave a mark on your nose, adapt perfectly to the shape of your face, and are practical yet stylish, then this is the place for you. Unique models of both prescription and sunglasses, that take around 20 days to execute, can be delivered worldwide. www. turineyes.it. Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. Via Mazzini, 33. T: 347 1882008. Map G6

BEAUTY Alkemy This small space in the centre of Turin concocts magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. The Alkemy line includes strictly natural nutricosmetics and dermoactives, whose effectiveness lies in the power of the natural plants and ingredients used, which no other company in the world combines or makes available, including Klamath, the ultimate wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. T: 011 5581755. Map E4

L’Arcade des Parfums This niche perfumery, whose name is inspired by the arcaded porticoes of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, conducts ongoing research on its signature style.

Take an olfactory journey amidst luxury perfume brands, fragrances created by illustrious Maître Parfumeurs, cosmetics and makeup. The Arcade also offers a wide range of home fragrances and scented candles, select bijoux, facials and makeup sessions. www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it.

Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 74/F. T: 011 5621148. Map D5

Jo Malone London The entire product range of this prestigious British brand is showcased at the airy boutique located in the city’s central via Lagrange. Perfumes, candles, diffusers, bath and body care and home products, all featuring the iconic fragrances of Jo Malone London that can be combined to create your own bespoke scent. All customers visiting the boutique are offered a relaxing, scented hand massage. www.jomalone.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am–7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange, 4/a.

T: 011 4546467. Map F4

Melissa Just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, Melissa is much more than a herbalist. Customers visiting the space will find a vast selection of organic products, including makeup, cosmetics, hair products, natural soaps, candles, cups and teapots, perfumes and herbal teas, plus teas and infusions of all types. Its interior, decorated with flower-patterned wallpaper, hat stands, velvet sofas and vintage furniture, is reminiscent of a French boudoir. In addition to organizing events, its owners often pamper their clientele with makeup artists or manicurists. www.

melissatorino.com. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; 3,30pm-7,30pm. Via G. Ferrari, 4. T: 011 8395813.

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CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Antonioli This multi-brand boutique for men and women in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of unconventional, prestigious designer labels including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based on blending contemporary taste with alternative solutions in a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu.

Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm.

Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253.

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Boggi Milano Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; TuesSat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017.

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Caramello Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom spread over two floors, offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions. The assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the queen of Made-in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also has an outlet in the Crocetta district, showcasing last season’s collections at affordable prices. caramellostore.it.

Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3

Kristina Ti The standalone store of famous Torinese brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed by Cristina Tardito.

At this warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170.

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Posh At this multi-brand store, situated in the prestigious piazza San Carlo in the heart of the city, you’ll find a selection of clothing, perfumes and accessories by several of the world’s most prestigious international brands. This highly selective choice of clothing for men and women includes big-name brands like See by Chloè, Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons and Jean Charles de Castelbajac www.poshtorino.com. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Thurs 10.30am-7.30pm; Fri-Sun 10.30am1.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 218.

T: 011 5622365. Map F4

San Carlo dal 1973 CONCEPT STORE An historic Torinese clothing store, located in its namesake square. This large multi-brand store, dedicated to the best collections

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings.

Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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SHOPPING of clothing, accessories and perfumes, skillfully mixes designer labels with alternative brands; a repository of non-conformist ideas, where you can search for items that are never ordinary. The list of brands available is vast and includes Acne Studios, DKNY, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Lanvin and Marni. Other highlights include cosmetics by Santa Maria Novella and niche perfumes by Byredo and Diptyque. www. sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 201. T: 011 5114110.

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SO San Lorenzo An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, soughtafter style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5

Top Ten Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level space has been, since its inception, a reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural style is reflected in its meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, ranging from the avant-garde to the most prestigious international brands like Comme des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5

Verdelilla Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jamin Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed elegance and low-key femininity. www.verdelilla.it.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27.

T: 011 5172701. Map D6

watches. At its historic store, boasting an innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and precious accessories. In addition to several of the world’s most coveted watch brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano glass by Venini, creations

by Tudor, luxury accessories, Edward Green footwear, Amouage fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. Via C. Battisti, 15. T: 011 5613589.

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Rocca 1794 ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches.

Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a selection of the world’s most prestigious brands including Damiani, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Breitling, Blancpain, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260.

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LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA

and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www.maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm.

Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134.

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PASSION SHOPPING Bagni Paloma This delightful concept store carries clothing, furniture and various other items including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, candles, Japanese watercolours and colognes by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte. Its fashion offerings include niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569. Map G6

Culti House Torino At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4

La Belle Histoire Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this retròstyle atelier, overlooking a picturesque courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll find themselves

DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange.

This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Astrua 1860 ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those used in 28 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

ROCCA 1794 The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands. It comprises two floors, four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands. www.rocca1794.com

Turin Via Roma, 290

BARI - BOLOGNA - CATANIA - FIUMICINO - LECCE - LUGANO - MALPENSA MANTUA - MILAN - PADUA - TAORMINA

Rocca is the only high-end Italian jewellery and watch-making company that has distributed and proposed, for over 200 years, the most esteemed Brands in its Boutiques, in compliance with the concessions.

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SHOPPING

Esoteric Turin Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel where the Po and Dora rivers meet.

More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. This explains why Turin boasts numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase books, incense, tarot cards, candles, plus anything else associated with the occult world. (C.Z.) ARETHUSA At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a comprehensive selection of publications, books, magazines or series dedicated to spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects.

Arethusa also stocks a wide range of tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm.

Via G. Giolitti, 18.

T: 011 8173373. Map F5 ESOTERICAMENTE A reference point in the city for lovers of the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards from all over the world, incense, crystals and everything required for ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large and wellstocked. www.esotericamente.it Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard).

T: 011 4310499. Map E3 LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, publishes and sells works related to medicine, naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and numerology at its namesake bookstore.

Also organizes meetings, courses and themed seminars. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30am.

Via Madama Cristina, 70/b.

T: 011 6507058. Off Map

SAN CARLO DAL 1973

LA BELLE HISTOIRE

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surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear and a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199.

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of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers a range of products that are always different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin to Northern European brands designed exclusively for the Italian market. www. rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7

Les Coquettes

SHOES

Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3

Mabì Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal footwear and natural cosmetic products. Garments on sale include a collection of women’s couture dresses designed especially for Mabi by Maria della Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the store, who has a passion for British-style floral prints. www. mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511.

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Poncif Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style designed for women, who, in spite of their love for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless looking to make a statement thanks to the strikingly original designs and unusual colour combinations.

In addition to the line of the Poncif brand, all the collections showcased are based on the same principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5\f. T: 011 8173040. Map H5

Rrriot shop Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district

30 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

Bottega Velasca Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and accessories) store for men offers customers an authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e.

T: 02 94755460 (bottega.torino@velasca.com).

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Hole This multi-brand store located in the heart of the city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories.

Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Map E3

Cribì Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, featuring a combination of craftsmanship and experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines.

Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348.

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[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

The best shopping in Turin

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

Head to Rinascente: located in the heart of the Savoy city, it offers new spaces and new brands for a unique shopping experience

The Rinascente department store in Turin has implemented a dynamic global restyling process that merges perfectly with the architectural and cultural excellence of the city. The via Lagrange store is real temple of shopping offering visitors the best in fashion, design, beauty and gourmet food, thanks to the presence of a cafè and food market.

Following the opening of the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design and food, the first floor acts as a showcase for classic collections, with a focus on outerwear signed by prestigious brands including Emporio Armani, Fay and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The other side of the floor hosts more contemporary offerings, with brands like Corneliani Collection and Hugo Boss, or more relaxed options, including Aspesi or Eleventy.

On the second floor, visitors will find themselves immersed in a world of contemporary fashion. Fans of denim

will be spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic brands like Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a selection of streetwear labels. Another groundbreaking addition is the creation of an outdoor clothing area, where brands showcased include EA7, Napapjri ot The North Face. As part of the unique, elevated shopping experience, the spotlight is also focused on footwear.

The third floor presents contemporary ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection for a complete day-to-night lifestyle look.

The focal point of the floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated to footwear. Brands showcased include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. Lovers of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands include Adidas Y3, All

Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more.

The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands renowned for their contemporary classic style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually striking architectural display, infused with a romantic mood; the collections include items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks by big-name brands complete the shopping experience at the store. >> Rinascente Torino www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31

FOOD&WINE

More chocolate for everyone At Grezzo Raw Chocolate, chocolate is no longer a transgression for the weight-conscious, people suffering from food intolerances, or those who want to eat healthily without sacrificing taste. By Chiara Zaccarelli

T

urin has been the chocolate heart of Europe since the 17th century.

The opening of a pastry shop selling vegan and raw offerings, which are suitable for everyone, including those suffering from health problems and who can’t eat sugar, was inevitable. The techniques involved in raw pastry making include cooking processes that do not exceed temperatures of 42°C, so that the nutritional benefits and taste of ingredients are preserved. Grezzo’s chocolate is sweetened with whole, organic coconut blossom sugar instead of refined sugar, and is rich in vitamins, mineral salts and fiber that help lower the glycemic index.

Furthermore, thanks to a cold-working process, the chocolate’s original nutritional properties remain intact. At Grezzo Raw Chocolate, which is 32 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

located just a short distance from the city’s central via Roma, you can taste (or purchase to take away) a wide assortment of strictly uncooked gluten and lactose-free specialties, created using organic products. Standouts among the delicacies on offer include tiramisù, cheesecake, Sacher cakes, all types of chocolate pralines, spreadable creams and an irresistible bunet, one of Piedmont’s most traditional sweet treats, re-imagined here with coconut pulp, cashews, coconut sugar, and raw coffee and cocoa beans. The space, spread over 150 square meters, is designed to seat up to fifty people, and includes a café where, in addition to cakes and pastries, you can sample organic Haitian Fairtrade coffee, cappuccino made with almond milk, selected teas and herbal teas, as well as extracts of fruit and vegetables.

>> Grezzo Raw Chocolate Via Giovanni Amendola, 9D. T: 011 19213584. Map E5 grezzorawchocolate.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied by wines and other high-quality artisanal products.

Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075.

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Eataly Torino Lingotto Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. T: 011 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230.

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Gastronomia (La)

VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovyfree Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district.

Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18.

T: 011 6699407. Off Map

Pescheria Gallina Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del mercato has been in business for over a century.

Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424.

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Pastry Shops The traditional/age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th century Turin.

Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake.

Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72.

T: 011 4546151.

GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze).

At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017.

PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake.

Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592.

TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta

Caffè Platti

and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508.

Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more.

A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it.

Piazza Carignano, 2.

T: 011 19211250.

Barberino Designer Outlet

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© FRANCESCA MOSCHENI

DINING

Proustian recollections The main dining room, private dining room and panoramic terrace of the Les Petites Madeleines Restaurant are connected by a shared common thread: a tribute to local tradition. By Giulia Minero

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very aspect of the Turin Palace Hotel, an elegant property that has dominated the centre of the city since 1872, is based on the appreciation and promotion of the region, and no detail has been left to chance.

So it is not surprising that the gastronomic offerings at its restaurant, open also to outside guests, is based on the same philosophy. Its name, Les Petites Madeleines, is not random, and aims to trigger emotions and reawaken memories of a simple yet unforgettable taste, like Marcel Proust’s famous Madeleine’s. Every day, the restaurant’s young Executive Chef Giuseppe Lisciotto titillates diners’ palates with the best cuisine of Italian gastronomy, in a romantic setting, enhanced by boiserie, cushioned seating and wallpaper reminiscent of Parisian bistros. Its menu is distinguished 34 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

by simple flavours and pairings, beginning with the historic ‘Spaghettone Antico Pastificio Fabbri e pomodoro’, and enhanced by the utmost respect for seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Particular attention is paid to traditional Italian cuisine, with a nod to some typical Piedmontese recipes, including ‘Ravioli di Plin’, and creations where vegetables take centre stage. This voyage of taste is complemented by an extensive wine list, featuring Piedmontese labels and niche vintages of French and Italian origin. >> Les Petites Madeleines c/o Turin Palace Hotel Via Sacchi, 8.

T: 011 0825321. Map E6 www.turinpalacehotel.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turinbased bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint.

The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino.

Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6

Casa Amelie A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premium-quality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com.

Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2

Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices.

With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3

Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, garden-grown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23.

T: 011 2767661. Map E3

È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from

Michelin-starred restaurants Seven starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. (C. Z.) CANNAVACCIUOLO BISTROT TORINO Established to offer diners an elegant, unique experience, this restaurant highlights the essence of the famous Neapolitan chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland mixed and matched with those from Piedmont. The space has been designed in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui.

Via Umberto Cosmo, 6.

T: 011 8399893. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6

© ALEX CHIECHI

TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE

CARIGNANO At the restaurant located inside the Grand Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired

by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the nearby region of Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with contemporary techniques and tastes.

Via Carlo Alberto, 35. T: 011 5170171. www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 CASA VICINA Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who for five generations have embraced the region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality ingredients. The wine list is extensive and well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates with Eataly, customers can choose from the emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar.

Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto.

T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map DEL CAMBIO Established in 1757, it was among the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional traditions, which he reinterprets with a creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth a visit. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it Map F4

Carignano

MAGORABIN Just steps from the Mole, this starred restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an eclectic Chef with a strong personality.

You can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s tasting menuJust a little further on, in the same street, the chef has opened Magorabin Alimentari, a bottega/bistro with an adjacent bakery where you can purchase or taste specialty products.

Corso San Maurizio, 61/b.

T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com Map H4 SPAZIO 7 Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part of the Foundation.

The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived here after working at several of Piedmont’s most historic restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: young, contemporary and open to innovation.

The wine list features the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring regions in France.

Via Modane, 20. T: 011 3797626. www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map VINTAGE 1997 As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its old-world atmosphere.

The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition. Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese specialties including truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for the past twenty years with traditional Piedmontese professionalism. www.vintage1997.com Map E4

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DINING a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038.

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Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; TuesThurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12noon2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli. it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730.

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Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open TuesSun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com.

Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621.

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Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128.

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Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy.

The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19thcentury tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€.

Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500.

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Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd.

36 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead.

Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693.

Map E7

Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls.

Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante.

Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4

ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a sevenvegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm-12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2

Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002.

Map F2

Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes.

Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money.

Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map

PIZZA A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage.Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map

Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers.

Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it.

Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074.

Map B3

Crudo fa la Pizza!

Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes.

Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino. com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060.

Map F3

Oh Crispa!

Gusto Madre

If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the by now ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map

Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients.

If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured doughmaking techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy-to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www. gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434.

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DINING

Piedmont food glossary

BAGNA CAUDA This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added.

Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you might find people avoiding you because you reek of it!

PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.

Vitello Tonnato

Bagna Cauda

A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.

VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Bagna Cauda

BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven.

PHOTO © VALENTINO CAZZANTI SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PHOTO © TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Not a dish for the faint-hearted.

AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together.

Piedmontese Mixed Fry

PHOTO © GIOVANNI BOSCHERINO SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the worldfamous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes.

We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli

Bonet

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ENTERTAINMENT

It’s vermouth time Casa Martini, located just a short distance from Turin, is the ideal place to immerse yourself in the history of vermouth, the Torinese distillate par excellence. By Giulia Minero

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fter-work in Turin is synonymous with vermouth, a fortified wine aromatized with herbs. It is so popular that in the late 19th century, the ritual, now known as the aperitivo, was called the ‘vermouth hour’ and was associated with just one authentically Torinese brand: Martini&Rossi. Today, the Martini factory, known as Casa Martini, is still located at its historical headquarters in Pessione di Chieri, just a short distance from the Piedmontese capital. This multi-faceted space is divided into eight areas: Terrazza Martini, a lounge bar, a botanical room, the old laboratory, the Mondo Martini Gallery, the Wine History Museum and the Bar Academy.

After touring the museum, vermouth devotees accessing this space will have a chance to gain 38 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

insight into the history of the drink and learn the basics involved in its preparation – but not its secret ingredients – thanks to mixology courses like ‘Make Your Own Vermouth’ and ‘Martini Cocktail Experiences’.

Every second Saturday of the month, subject to booking, guests, led by expert bartenders and brand ambassadors, can have fun experimenting with a range of aromatic flavours to create their own bespoke vermouth, or learn how to mix iconic Martinibased cocktails including the Americano, the Martini Negroni Cocktail or the new Martini Fiero & Tonic. At Casa Martini, you can experience all this and more, immersed in a setting that alone expresses the art of conviviality.

>> Casa Martini Piazza Luigi Rossi, 2 Pessione di Chieri (25 km from Turin) T: 011 9419. www.visitcasamartini.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

AFTER DINNER Hiroshima Mon Amour Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, over the years it has become a reference point for events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Italian and international artists, exhibitions and clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org.

Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map

Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on contemporary trends and up-andcoming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pm-midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub. torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5

Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10.

T: 339 852806.

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international feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open MonThurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5

Lanificio San Salvatore Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians.

Highlights include an interesting wine list, including numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am.

Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568.

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THEATRES Teatro Carignano One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the place where the king went to watch plays (opera was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano.

Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing theatre of the highest standards and presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6.

T: 011 5169555. Map F4

Teatro Nuovo Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it.

Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map

Teatro Regio Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably linked to several of the world’s most illustrious musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3

Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4

APERITIVI Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849.

Map D5

Beena This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7

La Drogheria Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an

A night at the museum The “Night of Museums” is one of Europe’s most important cultural events: an unmissable ADVERTORIAL evening of culture, art and beauty, offering visitors a chance to discover and appreciate the rich artistic heritage of cities across Europe. The whole of Italy, including Turin, will participate in this late-night extravaganza, which involves European museums that will stay open until late at night. To mark the occasion, several museums will offer a discounted admission, a symbolic admission fee of €1, or free admission. An action-packed program of events and activities.

The European Night of Museums - Saturday 18 (6pm-11.59pm) Several locations - www.beniculturali.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Palazzo Madama, the cradle of history Palazzo Madama was converted into a museum to protect the historical heritage of the region. A must-visit venue that enthralls visitors with its works of art housed in an elegant Baroque palace. By Giulia Minero

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hat were the artistic tastes of a border region in the past? To answer this question you need to visit Palazzo Madama, one of the 17th century residences of two important female members of the House of Savoy, which has hosted the collection of the Civic Museum of Ancient Art since 1861. Credit for the current aesthetic of this white stone Baroque building goes to architect Filippo Juvarra, but, above all, to the artistic taste of two women of the Savoy dynasty, Marie Christine of Bourbon-France, and Marie Jeanne Baptiste of Savoy-Nemours, the ‘Royal Madames’ who lived here, and for whom the palace is named. The museum offers visitors a two-in-one tour. The first is dedicated to the history of its rooms, while the 40 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

other focuses on its works of art. Its sprawling collections are displayed chronologically on four floors. The basement, located on a level with the Roman foundations offering direct access to the Medieval Garden, houses collections dating back to the Middle Ages, including stone sculptures and jewelry; the ground floor is devoted to works ranging from the Gothic to Renaissance eras, including Antonello da Messina’s sublime ‘Portrait of a Man’. The 17th and 18th century Baroque rooms of the royal family, featuring a picture gallery, ornate decorations and original period furniture, can be viewed on the first floor, while decorative arts, from various eras, including ceramics, ivories, fabrics and glass, complete the tour of the second floor.

>> Palazzo Madama Piazza Castello. Map F3. www.palazzomadamatorino.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, ecocompatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897.

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Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73.

T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6.

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to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518.

Map C5

J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; SatSun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday).

The ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site.

Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadiume-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486.

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Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’

shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294.

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Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudoGreek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline.

Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top of the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563.

Map H4

Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea

© DANIELE BOTTALLO

The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed

by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December.

Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org.

Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280.

Off Map

GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee.

Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition

MUSEO LAVAZZA A new original museum explores the history of historic Italian coffee house Lavazza.

The complex, allows visitors to embark on a sensory journey through the world of coffee, interweaving the narrative with the history of the family. museo.lavazza.com

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Musei Reali

Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe.

The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.

ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour.

BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’.

CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin.

GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces

by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries.

GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing.

MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre.

PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries.

PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.

42 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected.

Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens.

The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1.

Map F3

Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it.

Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2

Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4

Museo Lavazza Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations

and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum.

Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm).

Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621.

Map H1

Museo Nazionale del Cinema The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561.

Map H4

OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22.

T: 011 4365832. Map G4

Parco del Valentino Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available.

Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7

| SIGHTSEEING EDITOR’S TIP

Museo della Frutta

Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works

by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’.

Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713.

Off Map

How many cities are able to boast a museum dedicated to fruit in their long list of attractions? The Francesco Garnier Valletti Museum occupies a part of the ‘Palazzo degli Istituti Anatomici’, a multifunctional hub which also includes the extraordinary Cesare Lombroso Museum of Criminal Anthropology and the Luigi Rolando Museum of Human Anatomy, designed to help visitors gain insight into the idea of scientific positivism whose centre was based in the beautiful San Salvario district between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. The heart and showpiece of the museum is an incredible and unique collection of plastic fruit, consisting

of hundreds of varieties of apples, pears, peaches, apricots, plums and grapes. Real works of art created during the second half of the 19th century by Francesco Garnier Valletti (1808-1889), a brilliant, eccentric artisan, artist and scientist. The pomological collection alone features more than 1,000 pieces of fruit including 501 pears, 295 apples, 67 peaches, 20 plums, 53 cherries, 56 apricots and 10 grape varieties. These amazingly life-like reproductions are displayed chronologically in the same glass cases in which they were housed in 1928. >> Museo della Frutta Via Pietro Giuria, 15. Off Map www.museodellafrutta.it

Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43

© LUCA MACELLARI

ESSENTIALS

Turin, the city of the Alps The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.

T

urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city.

From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy.

One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, 44 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana).

The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway

system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus.

Turin boasts an enviable geographic position.

It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions.

They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts.

It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services.

Caselle Airport Malpensa Airport

OPEN PHARMACIES

Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza.

T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5.

T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station.

T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org PASSPORTS

Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10.

T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino

Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone.

Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers.

Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter.

To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino

Fast train network from Turin PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS

Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min.

The most important railway station in Turin is Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, highspeed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including TGV services between Paris and Milan and other services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line.

TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it.

Airports TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) -

(16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. The junction is connected directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www.aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website).

One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12.

Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin to Milan Malpensa airport.

WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll only pay €5 for your ticket.

Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.

Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

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ESSENTIALS MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -.

The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway.

Information desk T: 02 232323. www-sea-aeroportimilano.it.

• Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. www.aeroportoditorino.it CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre

of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in connection from Turin with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it

Getting around Turin GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000.

GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm.

Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver and GTT personnel are not allowed to return objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they can be collected after 48 hours from the time of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4.

Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753.

Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram.Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro.

ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their own car and staying in a hotel in the central area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival and departure only, filling out a form at the hotel reception (ask your concierge for more information).

In the same way it is possible to reach paid public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in the same parking lot with the request for transit authorization no later than 11am.

Tourist Information TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo

Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza

Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181.

Open daily 9am-6pm.

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the village and the medieval fortress; Line B to access various sites including the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting point: at any bus stop.

Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language commentary.

Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines).

Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin

© RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD

This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits.

For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.

48 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

Where Turin Magazine

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Bike Sharing [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers more than 140 stations scattered around the 5city STARS from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free annual Grand HotelofSitea Via Carlo 35 • Map F5several for rides less–than 30Alberto, minutes, even 4times STARS a day, after which the rate provided for by formula is applied byMap scaling Acyour Hotelsubscription Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off the amount credit on the To Art Hotel Bostonfrom Torinothe – Via A. Massena, 70 •card.

Off Map access service you need beMap a credit card Art Hotel the Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19to • Off holder.

ForCrystal more Palace information and other Best Western Hotel – Via Nizza, 11 • types Map E6 of subscription website www.tobike.it Best Western Hotel visit Luxorthe – Corso Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 .

Green LinePlus 800Executive 548040.Hotel Store [TO]Bike Santa Best Western and Suites –Via Via Nizza, 28 Chiara, 26/f. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm.

• Off Map Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 MOBIKE – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 to book a bike via a smartphone App, identify Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 the position of the bike nearest to you and then Diplomatic Via Cernaia, 42 • Mapparking C3 leave it in–any authorized area in the city.

Double

by Hilton Turinand Lingotto Via Nizza, 230 30 • Cost: Tree 1 euro deposit, 0.30 – euros every Off Map minutes. For more informations visit Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • www.mobike.com.

Off Map Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Viastation-free Assietta, 3 • Map D6 OFO – Ofo, the world largest bike Hotel dei Pittori – Corsohas Regina Margherita,in57Turin.

• Map I3 sharing company, launched Operating cities worldwide, Hotel Principeacross di Torino180 – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • OffOfo’s Map missionTorino is to provide a convenient, affordable Lancaster – Corso Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map and low carbon of travel. can Nh Collection Torino method Piazza Carlina – PiazzaUsers Carlo Emanuele II, 15download • Map G5 an App on their smartphone to find nearby scan theEmanuele QR code located on Nh Torino bikes Centroand – Corso Vittorio II, 104 • Map B4 either frameCongress or smart lock to262 unlock them.

Nh Torinothe Lingotto – Via Nizza, • Off Map The company’s yellow airless tyres Nh Torino Santo Stefano – Viabikes Porta have Palatina, 19 • Map F2-3 (to prevent punctures) and a 3-speed gear shift.

Novotel Torino Corso Giulio Cesare – Corso Giulio Cesare, Costs: 0.20 euros for the first half hour; 0.30 euros 338/34 • Off Map for the second half hour; 0.50 euros for every 30 Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map minutes thereafter and 5 euros per day.

Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 • For more informations visit www.ita.ofo.com Map F5 Starhotels Majestic Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 OBIKE - oBike is a –global leader in bike-sharing The Originals Hotel Turin Royal –anCorso Regina Margherita, without stations offering innovative service 249 Map for• Off short distance transport. The platform is TownHouse – Via XXon Settembre, 70 • Map F3 currently 70 present 3 different continents for a Turin – Via P. Sacchi, • Map E6 worldwide. totalPalace of 26Hotel states and over 840 cities Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, • Map F5 The app, which can be4downloaded comfortably on Savoia your smartphone, users to locate Villa – Corso Sicilia, 1,allows angolo Corso Moncalieri • Offand Map rent bicycles using a completely innovative

Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Turin!

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