Where Venice n 55 April 2021

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

APRIL 2021

ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE Enjoy the San Giorgio Island, a peaceful corner in the heart of the floating city

W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM

VENETO, ALL THE ALLURE OF THE REGION WINE EXPERIENCE. DISCOVERING THE BEST ORANGE WINES IN ITALY

吃喝玩乐 尽在这里

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


DISCOVER

ENJOY

CITY GUIDE www.whereitalia.com

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


Venice April 2021

In love with Italy?

16 SHOPPING

BAGARON

Piedàterre’s classic Venetian slippers can be purchased at a charming, brightly coloured boutique located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge.

C A M PA LT O

TH

24 DINING

For a romantic candle-lit dinner, head to the Bistrot de Venise restaurant, the ideal place to savour authentic, seasonal gourmet offerings.

A MISS BLE IT A UN

E

Discover & Enjoy Live your dream and get your experience in a click

The entire life of famous Renaissance painter, Tintoretto, revolved around a circumscribed area of Cannaregio.

ISOLA CAMPALTO

www.welcometoitalia.com

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CALLE DEL FIGHER

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SACCA

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

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A

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CALL

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CAL

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NA

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PAR

TIM

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CALL

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Rio dei Tolen

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ll'O

AM

A

RIT

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LA

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La Maddalena

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L’ISOLA

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LA

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DE LA VIDA

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TA RIZZI

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CAL

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

Latest trends or age-old recipe? Discover the Orange wines, re-evaluated through history DORSODURO as superior products. RIO

a

RAMO

IZAD

icordi

C.

RT

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EN

O SAL

Miser

CALLE

OTT

en

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CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

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CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

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CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

PO

RZ

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

TOR

Ma

della

GO RTE OPO SOT

ND

L

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Rio

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL

Rio

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CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

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NE

BAR

TA

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CAL

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E

NA

I

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CA

BAR

SIM

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DEI

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DAM

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COVER IMAGE Panoramic view of the San Giorgio Island. © Pani Garmyder/Shutterstock.com

18 UNIQUE IN VENICE

The most famous attractions to visit in Venice: monuments, churches, islands and hidden treasures.

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

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WINE EXPERIENCE. DISCOVERING THE BEST ORANGE WINES IN ITALY

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Enjoy the San Giorgio Island, a peaceful corner in the heart of the floating city

VENETO, ALL THE ALLURE OF THE REGION

Contents

Several charming destinations in Veneto, infused with nature, history and art. A perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun.

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ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE

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40 OUT OF TOWN

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W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ISOLA DI T

34 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Andrea Jarach Where® Publisher

APRIL 2021

Where tips

EXPERIEN CE AN LI

the tourism sector is in great difficulties all over the world. We must therefore thank you who are reading us now because you are nonetheless the hope of recovery as the world slowly overcomes MESTRE the pandemic. We Italians have experienced all manner of crises and we have always overcome them by trying not to lose that smile of welcome that we once again give you today. Whether you are our guest due to work,Parco to San Giuliano pleasure or, simply, you have come upon these words via the Internet, the word is always “benvenuto, welcome”, either today or in a few months.

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Dear friends and readers,

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH

PH © FRAGMENT @ DFS

FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI The very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, food and wines, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building overlooking the Grand Canal which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking. www.dfs.com

www.where-venice.com PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS

THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Originated as a cultural project, it offers a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, plus body and homecare products, inspired by the exquisite essences and spices that the Venetians imported from Far East to Africa, Europe and the North sea. Its prestigious standalone boutique which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin. www.themerchantofvenice.com

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 COO

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com FORTUNY The Fortuny brand has been synonymous with precious fabrics for more than 100 years, an expression of Venetian craftsmanship and the timeless talent of its Spanish textile designer and founder, Mariano Fortuny. The showroom is the ideal place to browse the entire collection of precious Fortuny-branded classic, damask and floral-print fabrics, and those embellished with tribal or geometric patterns. fortuny.com

PIEDÀTERRE The classic Venetian slippers known as ‘furlane’ carrying the name of Piedàterre, can be purchased at a charming, brightlycoloured boutique located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge. At Piedàterre, lovers of light, comfortable footwear can also find slippers inspired by the 18th century opulence of the Serenissima, including ‘veneziane’ and ‘sabot’, all sewn by hand and embellished with velvet or oriental silks. www.piedaterre-venice.com

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

amministrazione@proedi.it PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS

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IL MAGAZINE È DISTRIBUITO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. THE MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. venice.whereitalia.com/distribution


[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

SEE MAP PAGE 46

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 5 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence

and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1

Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 9

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 7 w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   3


[ SIGHTSEEING]

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TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It 4  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries.

Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione.


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SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’

paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 6 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops.

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 8 w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   5


WHERE NOW | UNIQUE

gondola

All about the

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Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from 8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.

Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097

Fondaco dei Tedeschi when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric

elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   9


WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

Virtual Tours of ITALIAN Museums 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021


Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

Though some of the major museums in Italy are now open upon reservation, there are many other ways to discover their cultural offer without the need to book your seat. Where? Online, of course! We've rounded up a selection of the Italian museums offering virtual tours and online activities to satisfy your cultural whims. BY GIULIA MINERO

F

or a few months institutions, public and private museums and art galleries have been providing their visitors with the chance to explore their collections and exhibitions comfortably from home. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, special activities, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice.

Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

The Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery), for example, has launched a new initiative: BreraPlus+, a new online platform that enriches the experience of the gallery with new multimedia content, special programs, concerts, live streaming, events and much more (www.BreraPlus.org).

On the art gallery’s official website, visitors can discover 669 works of art thanks to “The Collection Online” section. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Fondazione Prada MILAN

Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. The foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. An online section, for example, enables visitors to discover the two featured exhibitions the “Finite Rants” online project features 8 different visual essays – which change monthly – commissioned to artists, filmmakers, intellectuals and researchers to test the efficiency of this intrument to express the author’s thought through images and visual communication. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org


WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

Le Stanze del Vetro, Venice

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” MILANO

The Milanese hub for science has enriched its cultural offer by powering its brand-new “Train Stories” augmented reality app, which is fully dedicated to the thrilling story of “Valigia delle Indie”, the train convoy that connected London to Bombay until the early 1900s. Through the app, visitors have the chance to walk along the train and discover the technological innovations in travels introduced by this special convoy. Moreover, users can also use the app to explore the museum’s Railway Pavilion and discover the highlights, secrets and stories connected to each locomotive and train though the words of Mr. Marco Iezzi, the curator to the pavilion. >> Discover more at www.museoscienza. org

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE

Google Arts&Culture, the innovative online platform by Google dedicated to the most important collections and artworks, has introduced a new way of visiting the 12  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

For the first time it is possible to visit the current exhibition “Venice and American Studio Glass” at Le Stanze del Vetro (Venice, Isola di San Giorgio) while sitting comfortably at home! Each room contains textual, photographic and video insights dedicated to Studio Glass at a click on the lestanzedelvetro.org website. Another project relates to Galleria Campari: some of the most iconic items can be discovered thanks to online guided tours powered with the 3D technology. Book your tour by writing to galleria@campari.com

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Always thanks to Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it


2021 EVENTS IN ITALY

MAY 8-30/5 | Several locations in Italy (starting point: Turin - arrival: Milan) | Giro d’Italia (104th edition). www.giroditalia.it 9-14/5 | Milan BIT Milano. Digital edition (9-11/5 Trade visitors and 12-14/5 Travellers). bit.fieramilano.it 3-16/5 | Rome | Tennis. Internazionali BNL d’Italia (78th edition). www.internazionalibnlditalia.com 12-15/5 | Brescia-Rome-Brescia | Mille Miglia 2018 (95th edition). www.1000miglia.it 22/5-21/11 | Venice | Biennale Architettura 2021. www.labiennale.org 30/5 | Mugello (Tuscany) | Moto GP. Gran Premio d’Italia. www.motogp.com JUNE 3-6/6 | Milan | Milano Jewelry Week. www.milanojewelryweek.com 5-7/6 | Milan | MIDO Milano Show. Digital edition. www.mido.com 10-13/6 | Milan | MIMO Milano Monza Motor Show. www.milanomonza.com 16-19/6 | Brescia-Viareggio-Rome-BolognaBrescia | Mille Miglia 2021 (39th edition). www.1000miglia.it 18-22/6 | Milan | Milano Moda Uomo. www.milanomodauomo.it 25/6-11/7 | Spoleto (Umbria) | Festival of Two Worlds. www.festivaldispoleto.com JULY 9-18/7 | Perugia | Umbria Jazz. www.umbriajazz.it 2/7 | Siena | Palio. www.ilpalio.org 19/6-4/9 | Verona | Arena di Verona 98th Opera Festival. www.arena.it 17/7 | Venice | Festa del Redentore. venice.whereitalia.com AUGUST 16/8 | Siena | Palio dell’Assunta. www.ilpalio.org 28/8 | Salento area (Puglia) | La Notte della Taranta. www.lanottedellataranta.it SEPTEMBER 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.cameramoda.it 4-17/9 | Venice | The Venice Glass Week. www.theveniceglassweek.com

Find the next year calendar on www.whereitalia.com

5-10/9 | Milan | Salone del Mobile. Milano www.salonemilano.it and Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1. Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. www.orticola.org 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. www.runromethemarathon.com 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.cameramoda.it OCTOBER 7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | International Alba White Truffle Fair. www.fieradeltartufo.org 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. www.routesonline.com 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. www.eurochocolate.com 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). www.vinitaly.com NOVEMBER 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | Merano Wine Festival. www.meranwinefestival.com Mid-November | Milan | BookCity Milano. bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. www.milanomusicweek.it 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. venice.whereitalia.com End of November | Venice | Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera Season. www. teatrolafenice.it DECEMBER 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of the Opera Season. www.teatroallascala.org

Dante 2021 Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of beauty and warm hospitality. To commemorate the 700th anniversary of his death, a full calendar of initiatives has been created involving the three cities associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona and Florence) in the coming months, which will continue until Sunday 12 September 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti will climb onto the podium for a concert in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a performance that will also be repeated in Florence and Verona. The programme of events will reach its culmination with the inauguration of the Museum of the Italian Language at Santa Maria Novella. Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European and world literature and represents an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, which for centuries has been considered the greatest work written in the Italian language and one of the masterpieces of world literature, describes a journey into the afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and suffering of the damned, the punishments to which they are subjected and the glories they have earned. A journey into history and mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and eternal feelings. The main sites in Florence that will host the events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the University of Florence, the Accademia della Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di Dante Museum.

This image by press photographer Massimo Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna. w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   13


[ W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A]

Dream experiences Whether it’s discovering the beauties of the city or tasting a local specialty, Where® brings you several unmissable experiences. Check our insider tips to take part of special cooking classes online or to help you plan your next visit. Book them on www.welcometoitalia.com ONLINE

LIVE PAINTING CLASS WITH VENETIAN ARTIST AT HOME

THIS MONTH IN ITALY LIVE WINE TASTING WITH ITALIAN SOMMELIER AT HOME

An expert winer will share his knowledge with you. Take the sparkling wine bottles and listen to the wise instruction of a sommelier with more than 20 years in this sector: you’ll experience an Italian Prosecco wine tasting directly at your home!

CLICK & BUY

ONLINE

Nicola, well-famous Venetian painter, will help to create your own painting at home, following you step by step! Using the amazing watercolors techniques, you will create a stunning artwork. CLICK & BUY

HISTORICAL WALKING TOUR OF VENICE

A special walking tour in the heart of the city: discover the main monuments of the historical Venice. An expert guide will escort in the labyrinth of Venetian “calli” until Rialto Bridge.

CLICK & BUY

VIRTUAL CARBONARA COOKING CLASS WITH ITALIAN CHEF

The famous Spaghetti alla Carbonara done directly at your home by Gabriele, a famous Italian chef. Enjoy the engaging on-line cooking class where you interact direcly with him as if you were in his kitchen.

CLICK & BUY

ONLINE

THE SECRET ITINERARY OF THE PRISONS IN PIAZZA SAN MARCO

Discover the secret itinerary of the ancient Prisons in Piazza San Marco, connected to the Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sights. Explore the dark cells and listen about fascinating Casanova and his jailbreak. CLICK & BUY

ITINERARIES TO LIVE VENICE AND ITS ISLANDS

A wonderful experience to live the city, alone on foot or by public boats, as the Venetians do, among the beautiful squares, narrow streets, canals and islands of the lagoon, with seven unique itineraries. CLICK & BUY

ONLINE TIRAMISÙ COOKING CLASS WITH ITALIAN CHEF In a step-by-step instructional course, Gabriele will teach you the secrets to prepare a yummy Tiramisu! An engaging online cooking class, where you can interact directly with the chef as if you were in his kitchen!

CLICK & BUY

ONLINE


Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences.

www.welcometoitalia.com


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.C E T R R A V E L E

A blend of luxury and sustainability The classic Venetian slippers known as ‘furlane’ carrying the name of Piedàterre, can be purchased at a charming, brightly-coloured boutique located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge. By Giulia Minero

T

he story behind furlane, the classic Venetian slippers with the rubber sole used by gondoliers to prevent them scuffing the precious woodwork of their gondolas, is inextricably linked to the peasant culture of the nearby region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. At the end of the Second World War, shortages inflicted by the war meant that leather shoes were inaccessible to most of the population. This resulted in the idea of using old bicycle tires for the soles, jute sacks used to carry grain as padding, and recycled scraps of material for the uppers. Hence the birth of the furlane. Credit for their widespread use in Venice goes to a small stall at the foot of the Rialto

Bridge, where the Piedàterre boutique now stands, which has been handcrafting furlane using traditional techniques for decades, but with the addition of innovative designs and fabrics. At Piedàterre, lovers of light, comfortable footwear can also find slippers inspired by the 18th century opulence of the Serenissima, including ‘veneziane’ and ‘sabot’, all sewn by hand and embellished with velvet or oriental silks. More discerning customers, searching for a unique pair of furlane slip-ons, can bring their own fabric and have a pair custom-made by the boutique’s expert artisans. Piedàterre handcrafts bespoke footwear for men, women and children.

Piedàterre boutique, where the footwear becomes art

16  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

>> Piedàterre San Polo, 60 - Rialto T: 041 5285513. Map E4 www.piedaterre-venice.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS - Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT - References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING - This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 23. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ANTIQUES Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com.

The emotion of a jewel

Salvadori established its first store in the magical city of Venice in 1857. At that time, it only carried watches, period bedside and travel alarm clocks, grandfather clocks and wall clocks. However, it was only thanks to Gabriele Pendini, the company’s longtime president who had a passion for gemstones, that Salvadori became a tangible expression of high-class, sought-after jewelry. Today, Salvadori Diamond Atelier interprets every desire with style and experience, offering women emotions that go straight to the heart. Don’t miss the new Sospiri collection, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, a symbol of love and romance. The collection was designed and created by designer Marzia Pendini, who was inspired by the history of the bridge and fascinated by the structure of the small windows with its unique geometries. All the jewellery pieces - rings, earrings and pendants - are made of white or pink gold and are each set with 5 diamonds that mark the junction points of the intertwining design. NEW ONLINE SALES

Salvadori Diamond Atelier - Venice Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609 www.salvadoridiamondatelier.com

w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   17


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AM

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United States Pavilion

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PE

Parco delle Rimembranz RT

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UE

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Russia Pavilion

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Le Zitelle

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Redentore

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C A L L E C ATA PA N

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CALL

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CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

AM ON

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

TI

RIB PPE GA

AR

IAN

M

GIUSE

E

SARES

TT

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE

A

I S E

DOMEN ICO CALLE SAN

DE

I

VIALE

O

AVON

E COPP

VA

SAL

LE

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

POLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E

BALD

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

EPPE

CAL

CROS

CALLE FRIZIER

IUS VIA G

San Francesco di Paola

C. LOREDANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

MARA

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ST

FONDAM

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AN

LA TANA

CA

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LA TAN A

S

FONI

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TR

CAM PO

CALL

DE

VID A

LA RG

P IE

LA

Basilica di San P CA LLE

CALLE TERCO

NALE

CALL

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TA A R SE

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M IA

AMEN

RERA

RT

FOND

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DE

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CALL

CO

ENA

N

DE

ARS

SA

CA LLE

E N TA

PRET E DEI

CA

DEI ARSENALOTTI

DAM

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

FON

FONDAMENTA

LL

L CA

LE

MA

N SO

AL

E

VI

TT

OR

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LL E

San Martino

M ORO SI NA

FONDAMENTA

ini

PIZ

E AC

O

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CA LL E

Verg

OS

CA

LL

ONI

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

I ITT GR

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

HIA RUGA VECC

S C H I AV

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

LL E

LL

TE

E LL CA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

E COLT

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE ALBERO

AS

E DE LL CA

CR OS ER A

CASTELLO

DO NA

L’AN ZO LO

CA

CA

C

DE

LO

MP

OLA

CA LL E

N TI AR M

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

ZATT ERE

M E N TA

EL LO

CALLE DELA CREA

O

FONDA

E CA ST

CALL

ENTA

CATECUMENI

IER

E

GE

DA

OV

AN

TA PALLA

NU

EL

AMEN

LE SCU

SE

O C. VOLT

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

O

TA

IA

CH

CA

CAL

NATER PIG

N SA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

R I VA D EGLI

EN

LE ST

RI

MI

LA

VONI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

100 m

E

SC UO

COL

SCHIA

AM

CE

CALL

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

RIO TERRÀ

FO

TE PIC

DEGLI

DE

A DE AD SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

LE CAL

NI

LL

FOND

LLE

ENT A PON

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

SE ST ND

LL A

SALUT E

CA

CA

DAM

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

SAL IZAD A SAN

DE

CA LL E

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

LL E

GRIMANI CALLE INA DELF CALLE

IA

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

FEM

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

FO CA

N IO ST BA

RC

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZAD A SANTA GIUSTINA

CORTE DELLE GATE

IN MAR DE L’OS

VE

L DE

'EU

I PRET

E NUO

E LL CA

NT

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

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DAM

RA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

I UD I SC GL E DE LL CA

SA

San Lorenzo

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

E GAT

N TA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

NCE

ASI DR

A N M

ZON

FRA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ENTA FONDAM

C. PIA NTON

R I VA

LE SAN

DE LE

ME

CALLE

FON

CAL

LLE CA

DA

Giudecca Palanca

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

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Palazzo Ducale

Spirito Santo

ON

E DEL CAFE

CALLE BOSELLO

O

TO

FON DAM

mia

VE

CALLE ERIZZO

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A O S

CALL

Rio San Lorenzo

VO HIA

San Giovanni Novo

CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

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FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

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VIN CALLE DEL

SC

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

GA SAN

CAL

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

NUOVA IO ED M L RE DE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

N

CORTE NOVA

RO VE N SE SA

RC

CORTE

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

ADA DEL FORN

CALLE DEL NAVARO

O SAN

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

E LL CA

L MO GLI

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

DE LE BAN

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

RIT

LE DE CAL

TA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FFA GIU

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani GA RU

E ALL

O

EN

DE LE TOLE

TA EN AM ND FO

TER

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

BI

ZAT

AM

Santa Maria del Pianto

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CORTE TREVISAN

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EN TA

BARBA RIA

DE

SALIZ

FORNAC E

AM

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

Basilica di San Marco

MA

A DE RIV

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

LO EL PP CA

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N

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

ER

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DE

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RL

CALLE DEL BASTION

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LLE

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CA

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GA

I

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BE

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l Palaz

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CAMPO DI SAN VIO

SE

LIO

TO

IN

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

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RTIRI

NL

FONDA MENTA

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O

BO

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Salute

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NT

CAL

CAL LE

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AM

LL

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FOR

Rio De

CA AN E BI LL CA

VAL

Santa Maria del Giglio

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se Moi San

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

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DIC

CALL

MAR ZO

LE TRE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

A XXII

CAL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

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HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

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ET

San Moisè

Rio

CALL

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CAMPO PISANI

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LE

G. GA LLI

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DEL FORNO

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MICHIEL

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ER

GO

NI LO EI BA C.D

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TOR SAR

LI

DE

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IA ER EL SS CA

INA

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ISE

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CALL E

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CA AR

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RUBBI

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C.M

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

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DE LA FAVA

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San Giuliano

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FRU

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San Fantin

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MARCO RO

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AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

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IR

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Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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IM

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CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

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CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

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CA LL E MAR DE ZA M RIA EZ O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GI AR C. AP DE ZA IE C. LE RI RA DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

or

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CA LU

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Teatro Malibran

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ad

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CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

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lv

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PI O

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RIO

San Salvador

LA

EN

RAMO

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CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO

n

MA

TE

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IN RN TE N PA SA

FON

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DE

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Accademia

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CAL

S.Canciano

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CALLE GOLDONI

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AN TEATRO

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ES

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CA

LA RG A

CORTE DEL

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Rialto

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ELE SAMU

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CAL

ND

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CALL

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À BAR

Santajewel-like Maria Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny boutiques del Giglio San Vidal and vintage shops,Palazzo this 'unique' city offers Corner Ca' Giustinian U R O an array of 'unique'Ca’Granda della locations where you Palazzo Ponte Pisani dell'Accademia Gritti canGallerie indulge in an authentic shopping Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo Collezione Peggy Genovese experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di San Gregorio Santa put Maria to and accessories that you'll be hard della Salute find Santa Maria elsewhere. While strolling through its del Rosario Sant’Agnese esa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with Spirito Santo its characteristic vibrancy… BA

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San Maurizio

Palazzo Loredan

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DE

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CA

U

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CA

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Santo Stefano

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

CA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BO TE GH E

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

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SAN

A S. PISCIN

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RISI

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DE

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo Ponte dei Tedeschi di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO C AL LE

. NA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

LL

O

CA

TT

SESTIE

RIO

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CA LL E

O

HE CR OS ER A

ND

LL

IO

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

San Silvestro

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AG

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e and l Gr

CA

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FO

NO

SC

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HIV

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San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

C.

E DE

LE

DE LLE CA

E LL CA

DE

RC

TA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

LE

L’A

IU

Piedàterre CAL

N RO

EN

SART ORI

CORTE DEL REMER

SAL IZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

G

GH

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

LE UE M SA S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

RU

ON RD SAN L PE DE

LL

nde Canal Gra

VE CC CO HIA RTE LEZZ E

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AN

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CA

CA LL EC A’

NO

R

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

NE

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PR

Santa Sofia

DA

PA

MPA

LIZ

TO

RAMO

RDO CALLE BERNA

CA DE M L PIEL SA NS LO ONI

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

CA ’M UT I

BO TA

I GA

LL

LA

DE

CA

AM

CA FOND .

R

RA

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

CA

C.

HET

MPIELLO DE LA VIDA

LE

LA

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

AG

O

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

a Can

San Tomà TR

SE

DE

CARAMPANE RÀ

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

RA

NZE

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

RA

O TALON

TE

E LL CA

SE

ND

A

CA

DO

CAMPO SAN POLO

La Bottega dei Mascareri DEL

RO

O

CAMPO APONAL

LE

EC

RI

RA

LL

ND RE

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

LE

CA

L’A GN EL LA

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAL

talon

DE

NE

CAMPO DEI FRARI

TO

I

C.

I

CORTE DEL TEATRO

R

DE

E DO

PRET

TE

CA LL E

LL

DEI

A LE

CA LL E

SAN POLO

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CAMPO SAN ROCCO

ALLE

SC

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

NA MADO

ET

EL

ST

San Cassiano

CA

OR

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I

O FORN DEL

NT

LE

IN

DE CA CA ’B LL E ON VI DE NC IN

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C

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RM LD

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BO

FO ND AM EN TA

N

TI

CALLE

TI

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RN

SA

DE LA

E

N

FO

C.

I

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CA

A

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

RAMO

LL

DE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

Basilica dei Frari

Rocco

LL

E

CAMPO SAN STIN

N TO

. S.A

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

LA

SA

TA

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R

LL

DE

EN

LE

OC

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GR

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DEL MAGAZEN

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3 18  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—www.dfs.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

The “FURLA Sleek” crossbody bag is made of grained leather with an Arco print. The model is characterized by a rounded shape with a practical zipper closure. Available in light pink, black, talco (white), cognac and fuoco (red).

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5 w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   19


SHOPPING San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities

across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvystyle gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta. com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1(Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware. Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810

(Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Fondaco dei Tedeschi The renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.dfs.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and

Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers. 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

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• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out. • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date

when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otelloenglish-version/legislation


STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic

code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

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SHOPPING further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www. damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori

purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer. com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre,

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

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film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4


PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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C.CALZEVERDE

A LO DESTR

EI S Q

RCE

DI

LLO

CO

RT

AR

RA LO SINIST

A

A PIAZZA I S DE BALDASSARRE VA RI GALUPPI

CA

NT

I

LL

E

GO

BB

I

PESCHERIA

Chiesa di San Martino

R IO R R À D

EL P IZ ZO

A

FONDAMENT

DEL PIZZO

BURANO

TE

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

FONDAMENTA

M E N TA

MALLEO CALLE

INEL N TA P O N T

SC

INEL N TA P O N T

VIA

FONDA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

FONDAME

VIA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

UE

DI

SANTA

TA

DI

MAZZORBETTO

C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

MAZZORBO

BAGARON

Museo Di Torcello

Chiesa di Santa Fosca 100 m

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

100 m

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

E

AN

GE

LO

ZA

NI

OL

EN

LL

AS C

L C O

LA EL

E D E

E V O

RTI

AL

NO

.D O

I

CA

GN

G

MA

LP

COLORATA

LIO

LL

E C E

LE

LL

LL

L'A

FO

ND

ND

AM

E N TA S E

AME

N TA

SA

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

BA

N

ST

SAN

L

SA

O

US

C

GIA

CA

CA

DEL BR

LORENZO

LE

SALVADOR

FO

SAN

CAL LLE

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NZ

NTI

RE

O

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE CRISTO

FO

DEL

RO

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

E TT M LE E D A VI

E

N

TA

CALL

M

SANT’ERASMO

FO

N

Ponte Lungo

DELLA MULA

MURANO

DA

D

A

FONDAMENTA

O

IA N TI S G O C R

ER

A

NI

E AN GE

VE

IU

TA

LO D AL

EN

N

AM

MIST

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VIVARINI

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M

ND

A.

RADI

CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE

TERA’

CA

RIO

Santa Maria degli Angeli

PARMENSE

FONDAMENTA

STRADA

A

NV

CA

GIANMARIA

CRISTOFORO

SACCA

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MULA

DA

ENT

A A N T ONI O

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RAMO

QUIRIZIO

F O N D A M E N TA D E I V E T R A I

DEI

ZANETTI

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DELLA DELLA

NI

CI

PESCHERIA

AN

R A

CALLE

M

M

O B

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E

EN

LI N

C

AL

C LE

D

EL

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O

LI

O

AL

LE

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ES

SA

G

M

IO

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LE

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LE

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E

M

Faro di Murano

AL

C

C

AI

IO

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FO

N

D

AM

I

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TI

FO

N

D

AM

EN

TA

D

CALLE

ENT

TO

TA

R

CALLE

O

PESCHERIA

CIPRIANO SAN

CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A

IN

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UC

AN

DEL

I

RD

HI O MASG

ORT

C. LARGA NA

A SAN GIOV

LI RO G

CALLE

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IET LE D OLO

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CA

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CALL

FONDAM

CO

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

TI

A

SA

MURANO

TA’

NO

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

PIAVE

ROTONDA DE

LARGA

CALLE

CALLE

Apostoli Santi dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

CALLE

I

CORDONI

DEI

STELLA

CALLE

CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TESTA

LA

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

DE

CALLE

CASTELLO

GIUSTINA

Nuove

CALLE DEL FORNO

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Rio de San Gerolamo

SALIZADA

CAPPUCCINE

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SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE

CALLE CAVALLI

CALLE

CALLE

MURAZZO

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

DOSE

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

CAPPELLO

RAMO

VOLTO

CALLE DEL FO

DEL

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DEL

C. DE LA MADONETA

C.

CALLE

CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO

CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

C.

Fondamenta

LEONARDO

delle

GRECI

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE DEI

Canale

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

CALLE

DE FONDAMENTA

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

CE

R L C

A

IST

LL

IB PE GAR

NA

RI

DE

MA

ION

COLONNE

SALAMON

C.

CO

BB

IAN

RE

CALLE

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

SE

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

EP

O

RI

FO

ND

AM

EN

SA

TA

GI

N

US

PE

San Giuseppe di Castello

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

SAN RIO

ISEPO

TERÀ

SANT'ANTONIO PALUDO

CALLE

Russia Pavilion

G IA

VIALE

RE EMB

Japan Pavilion

CAR

XXIV M AGG

I

NO

CH

LE

INO

TTO LA

ERA

EL

GEN

C.

AR

LE

ZU

SS

CAL

CROCE

CA

Santa Croce

LL

CA

PA

GN

A

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

RN

AR

SANT'ELENA

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SA

CA

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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

E

LL

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GR

AN

CA

LL

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AL

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Lido S. Nicolo' M

BR

SANT’ELENA

E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

TO

R

CALLE DELLA

CA

E

Teatro Verde

E

E

IA LL

E

DE

LL

A

FO

ND

ER

IA

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M

MA

DI

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CA

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N

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LL

LL

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TA

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CA

LL

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SAN GIACOMO CALLE

EN

Parco delle Rimembranze

E PI

RIO CROCE

DE LE ERBE

LUNGO

CALLE

PONTE FIANCO

Lungo

Ponte

ERBE

AM

LO

LE

ND

E

GE

DE

OC

AN

del

ND

CR

EL

JUNGHANS

CALLE

FO

N TA

CH

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

STRETTA CALLE

O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

CALLE ALBERO

E AM

MI

SCUOLA

FO

Redentore

E

CAMPO

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

OSPIZIO

PALLADA SCUOLA

M E N TA

LL

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FONDA

CA

NOBILI

GIUDECCA

CALLE

DEI

PICCOLO

FERRANDO

DELL'OLIO

PONTE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

GRANDE

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

IA

SANT'ELENA

SANT'ELENA

TI

C

FEM

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

SO

BO

LI

C. D EL

SA

BB

MAGGIORE

E

SAN GIORGIO

I

N

NT

'EU

FONDAMENTA

N

O

VA

U I P

IO

M

G

IN

N

C.

SA

VIALE PIAVE

TA

RD

NT

E

SA

COSMO

CO

United States Pavilion

AL

TA

CALLE

NI

VI

EN

E IV NOV

PALUDO CALLE

ISOLA DI

AM

VIAL

Giardini

S. Giorgio

D

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

N

Rio d el Giardini

DEL

CA’

I CASE

DELLE

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

ES

S. Servolo

RI

VI

N TA

MA

P

O

N

A

SA

N

M

A

A ILEI AQU

TA

A

S

M

IR

N

D

O

AR

IN

VI

VIC

OL

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IZ

ZO

AN

I

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PA

FR

OL

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A

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AU

C

ES

C

O

D

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O

D

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NO

AN D'

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NU

O

O

A

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D

VIA

N

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IE

A

C

VI SC

BR

VI

FO

GA

SA

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RIA

L

E

LE

M

EL

ISA

BE

AR

VIA

A

S TA

AN

VI

T TA

OM

HIE

TA

NG

LL GA

MIC

VIA

DOL

O E NR

ICO

V I A L E PA N T O

L.

AR

VIA

CO

NI

DAN

MOCENIGO

M

ZIO

O

E C I PA

LM

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IE

ORS

NG

OM

AR

E

GU

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

GL

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

VI

A

FA

SA

MA

ND

RO

GE

ET

GO

O

GR

DO

AB

VIA

ER

VI

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

IS

NZ

SAN SERVOLO

EL

LU

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

A RI

IO

VI

IP

R

O

VI

A

DE

LL

'O

SP

IZ

IO

M

AR

IN

O

RIV

RO

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

IA

NI

IS A

A

LM

A

ZI

A

CO

NI

D

AR M

M

ZO

AR

C

O

N

EL

LM

RE

LO

NG

OM

AR

E

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VI

A

VIA

CA

ND

IA

SANDRO

A

VI LO

IE

A

GL

VI

GU

O

LU

O SE LV

GALLO

ENIC

NA

VI

VIA

VIA DOM

PO

GALLIPOLI

VIA

CO

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

JA

TR

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

LU

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia

VI

A

M

O

RO

SI

N

I

N

I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

MB

ER

TI

Hotel Excelsior Venice

AN

LU

A

DR

EA

CA

LM

O

RI

NT

O

VI

N

G

O

M

AR

VI

TI

A

LA

LI

O

G

NI

U

TO

G

AN

SA

R AT

PIZZAMANO

E

VIA

ND

BU

D.

AR

O

LL

O

RO

TR

GA

PIE

VIA

C

O

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

DI

CO

VI A

RI

VA

VI

A

J.

DI

A

A.

ED

M

P.

OR

GA

OS

RZ

IN

ON

I

I VI

A

LE

ON

AR

DO

LO

O

RE

DA

N

RC

EL

LO

VI

I ON RC

O

MA O

GA

LM

RO

NG

CRISTOFO

LU

VIA

OM

AR

E

VI

A

GU

SA

GL

IE

ND

VI

RI

A

VA

AN

BE

TO

LL

NI

NE

O

DE

VI

TT

VA

O

LD

I

MA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

A

SA

ND

RO

GA

LL

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RO

VIA

GA

NI

SAN

VIA

SAN PIGAFETTA

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DE

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ND

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AN

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DA

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NN

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NS

ND

ON

EL

LI

NO

DA

SP

IR

A

VIA

AS

OL

A

A

VIA FRANCESCO

VI

ND

ER

A

RO

PA

GA

SQ

LL

O

UA

LI

PEZZANA

VI

A

RI

SA

CALLE DE CALLE

LARG

ROSA LARGA

VECCHIA

CALLE

CORTE

MASENA CALLE

ordia

DE

LA

CALLE

TREVISAN

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Miseric

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

IA

Canale

MISERICORD FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

CALLE

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE

DE

LE

CALLE

TRAGHETO

APOSTOLI

CALLE

C.

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

D’ORO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

C.

SANTA

ROSA

CAMPO

DEL

LA

CANNAREGIO

CALLE

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

CALLE

DE

CALLE

BOTERI

FORNO

BO

DEI

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DONZELLA

CALLE

C.

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

DE

MATTIA

CALLE

SAN

L’ARCO

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

CALLE

DE

CALLE

VECCHIA

SAN

DE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

DE

RUGA

SALIZADA

NAVE

LA

BOMBASEI

C.

CALLE

APRILE

II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

LOVO

DEL

SANT’ANTONIO

CALLE

CALLE

ZULIAN

BALBI

SAN

BALOTE

LE

FONDAMENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL

DE

DE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

SA

DEL SABION

ROSA

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

CORTE

CALLE

RÀ CALLE

CALLE RIO

CALLE

ORBI

GIUSTINIAN

F O N D A M E N TA

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

TI

VIALE

AR

CALL

M

CALLE

COPPO

E

LARGA

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

SCHIAVONA

TT

CALLE CORERA

I S E

CALLE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

CALLE

DE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE ZUCCHERO

GARI

EPPE

CALLE

IUS VIA G

VA

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

EUFEMIA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

BEATA

FONDAME

CALLE

CALLE

LA TANA

NUOVA

FOSCARINI

RAMO DE

DEI PRETI

VENIER

TANA

COLTRERA

TERRÀ

DE LA

CALLE

PISCINA

de le

CALLE TERCO

CAMPO

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE

RIO

LE

CALLE FRIZIER

SANT'AGNESE

ENA

C. LOREDANA

BRAGADIN

ARS

NALE

CALLE

PISCINA

PISCINA

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

ET RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE RIO

COLOMBINA

FONTEGO

MEGIO

SALITA

DEL

STAE

FORNO DEL CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

CALLE

GRUE LE

CARMINATI

FONDAMENTA

SALIZADA

TERA’

CRISTO

SECONDO

FOSCARI CALLE

E N TA

TA A R SE

CROSERA

FORNACE

SALONI

FONDAMENTA

VIDA

DEI FORNI

AMEN

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

TERRÀ

INCURABILI

LA

FONDAMENTA

Arsenale

100 m

Salute

CATECUMENI

RIO

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

CALLE DE

FOND

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CASTELLO

RIDOTTO

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

DEI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

DI

CALLE

VALLARESSO

SANGIANTOFFETTI

ONI

San Martino

MOROSINA

PIETRO

CALLE

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

RIO TERRÀ

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

O

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

ASCENSIONE

CALLE

EREMITE

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

LARGA

SARTOR

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CALLE

RI

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

ROTONDA

L’ARCO

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CALLE

C. DEL

DEI CORTELLOTTI

DEL

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA SANTA NTA

PICCOLO

FONDAME

SIMON SAN

nzera

FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA

ROCCO

DE C.

SAN

ALBANESI

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI LARGA CALLE

SESTIERE

I

DORSODURO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

Scome De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

a

AI DIETRO

DE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

CALLE

CALLE

S C H I AV

FONDAMENTA

Bacin o Stazio

BASTION

SCUDI

ANTONIN

DE

R I VA D EGLI

SCHIAVONI RIVA

MARTIN SAN

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

VERONA

Scom enzer

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

DEL

DEL

Palazzo

C.

LA

MINELLI

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

AM

CASTELLO

CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DELA CREA

FO

ND

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

DEGLI

FABBRI

DE

RC

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE

DEI

C.

CALLE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

A N M

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

FO

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

Sant'Eufemia

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

VERONA

le

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

LA

Cana

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DRASI

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

LO

DEL CAFETIER

CALLE

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

SEVERO

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

Palazzo Ducale

MO

DEI PRETI

GATE

RUGA

SAN

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

Museo Correr

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

CALLE

DE LE

SAN

CALLE

RC

LATERANO

ZORZI

SALIZADA

CASTELLO

LIO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SALIZADA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

San Moisè

CORTE

NUOVA

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

PIA

DE

FONDAMENTA

FABBRI

C.DEI CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

DEL CALLE

DEL FORNO

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

Rio San Lorenzo

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

FONDAMEN TA

LE VIGNOLE

Santa Maria del Pianto

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

SAN

XXII MARZO

O

MUSSATO

CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

NOVE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

C.

C.

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

MOISE’

SA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CARRO

CALLE

PISCINA

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CAPITELLO

ENTA

SESTIERE

C. LARGA

CORTE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

FREZZERIA

DEL

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

CALLE

San

CALLE

CALLE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CALLE

CASTELLI

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE LE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

G. GALLINA

MIRACOLI

CALLE

CALLE

SALIZADA

SAN

Rio

CALLE

DEI

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

CALLE ERIZZO

BEMBO

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

RIO

LARGA

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

ORBI

CALLE

MADONA

DEI PUTI

VAPORETTO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

DEI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

DEL

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CALLE

VI

VI

A

CO

A

DE

LE

TT

A

I R E

DE

L

Z AT

TA

VIA M

GIOVANN ON

DI

NI

I PIVIDOR

I

VI

A

M

AL

AM

OC

CO

VI

ISOLA POVEGLIA ALVISOPOLI

VI

A

M

AL

AM

OC

CO

VIA

VIA

FERRUCC IO

O

CC

O

AM VI

A

M

AL

AM

O

C

C

O

MALAMOCCO Chiesa S. Maria Assunta R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

PARRI

w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   23

AL M A VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

REMER

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

DRIO

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

NOVE

BERLENDIS

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

MAGAZEN

CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE

CALLE

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

E

CALLE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

BOTERI

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

S.Canciano

FONTEGO

PIO

LUCA SAN

TERÀ

RIO

RAMO

MORETTI

LA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

DEL

CALLE

MANDOLA

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

CAOTORTA

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

DE

TODESCHI

Santo Stefano CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAL

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

RAVANO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

LARGA

DEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CALLE

CALLE

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

CALLE

DEL

FALIER

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

NOVA

San Silvestro

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CALLE

SARTORI

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

C.

LE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

Santa Sofia

STRADA

ORESI

C. DEI

CALLE

DE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

PONTE

DEL

RUGHETA

SAN

S. SAMUELE

DE

AL

PISCINA

RIELO

FOND.

ZATTERE

Giudecca Hilton

PRIULI

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Grimani

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

CROSERA

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

FOND.

VENEZIA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

FOND.

SAMUELE

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

VOLTI

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUTI

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

CARROZZE

Accademia

DE OGNISANTI

E

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

S. SALIZADA

LE

FONDAMENT

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

S.Silvestro

DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

LEZZE

DE

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

nde

CALLE

CA’ CORTE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

CALLE CHIESA

LA

CARAMPANE

DEL

SESTIERE

CALLE RAMO

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DELLA

LE

Gra

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

LE PAZIENZE

BESAGIO

DE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

del

C. DE

Rio

SALIZADA SAN

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CALLE BERNARDO

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano

S. Basilio

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DEL

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CANAL RIO TERA’

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

A

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

PERDON

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

L’AGNELLA

al Can

CALLE

ROSSA

LARDONI

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

L’ASEO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CALLE

FOMO

CALLE CALLE C.

SCALETER

CAMPO SAN POLO

TRAGHETTO

CAZZIOLA

RENIER

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

DE

DEL

San Tomà DEL

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE

O

LA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

ZANE

CROSERA

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

NUOVO

IC

DEI

Rio Nuovo

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

ER

DEL

San Felice

PARANGON

TABACCHI

San Pantalon

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

IS

RUGA

NUOVA DE L’OGIO

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

SAN

C.

TA

FABBRICHE

CALLE

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

C.

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

EN

CA'

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

LE

PAPADOPOLI

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

D

TA TA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

N

FONDAMEN

DEI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

DEI

MADONA

TERÀ

SAN

TINTORETTO

DEI

SAN MICHELE

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

CALLE

NA

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

San Rocco

Muneghete

CA

NA

DE

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

LA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

LE

ALE

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

MEZO

TINTOR

SCHI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

BASEGO

.DA

MA

TRON

DEL

TENTOR

DE

DEL

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

C.

CALLE

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

SALIZADA

CALLE

LA

S.Stae

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

L’ISOLA

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

DE

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEI

FO

À D E

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

PROCURATIE

LARGA

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

SAN

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

della

TER

VECCHIO

C.

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

PONTE

CALLE

DEI

IA

RIO

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

RD

R

STRADA

DI

BARI

FONDAMEN

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

RIO

ICO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

LUNGA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

MIS

E DEL PISTO

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

CALLE

CROCE

TA

Rio

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA LA CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

NA

RDIA

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

SE

MISERICO

TERÀ

People Mover Venezia

AM

I

A E M

LA

TO

LER

LL

DE

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

S A N TA

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

BIASIO

DEI

TRONCHETTO

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

nde l Gra Cana

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

FONDAMENTA

People Mover Venezia

EN

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

TRONCHET

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

Riva de Biaso

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

San Geremia

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

SPAGNA

AI

DE

AM

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

DI

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

DEI

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

SA

CAPITELO

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

RIO

CALLE

AM

B AT

TERÀ

TI

MUNEGHE

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CAVALLET

CA

CALLE

AI

LE

TA

CALLE

BECCARIE

EN

CALLE

LE

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

DE

FORNER

FO

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

DE

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

ND

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

CARLO

FO

A

San Giobbe

SEBASTIANO

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

TO

BRAGADIN

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHET

VENIER FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

A

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

QUERIN,

ER

CALLE

B

ISOLA

LA

Parco

LI

People Mover Venezia

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

LA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FONDAMENTA

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

NANI

A

FONDAMENTA

VI

CORTE

ER

ACCADEMIA

B

TO

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

LI

IA

MURANO CALLE

LA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

EL

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

CALLE

A

CALLE

VI

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard. As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers

to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

CALLE

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.


DINING

For a romantic dinner There’s no better way to end a fabulous day on the lagoon than a romantic candle-lit dinner at Venice’s Bistrot de Venise. The ideal place to savour authentic, seasonal gourmet offerings.

E

stablished in 1993, the Bistrot de Venise is a place where people can meet and savour great cuisine and outstanding vintages while enjoying an array of cultural activities dedicated to the city of Venice including exhibitions and events devoted to art, poetry and photography. Boasting a warm, welcoming atmosphere, at Bistrot de Venise diners can sample an array of different menus based on their individual tastes and desire to experiment. A one-of-a-kind opportunity to rediscover authentic, historic Venetian cuisine with recipes re-imagined by an Anonymous Venetian Chef, Bartolomeo Sacchi also known as Platina, Bartolomeo Scappi and others (from the 14th to 18th centuries): a gastronomic 24  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

journey back in time, featuring the ancient aromas and flavours of the Serenissima, including sweet and sour dishes, precious spices, rice and stockfish. In addition to the above, the restaurant is also renowned for its traditional, contemporary Venetian cuisine with standouts including fish and seafood from the lagoon, with creative twists on traditional festive dishes. The restaurant also offers more than 60 wines by the glass and 300 highly select Italian and French labels. >> Bistrot de Venise Restaurant - Bar - Wine bar San Marco, 4685 (Calle dei Fabbri) www.bistrotdevenise.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle

Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Dining in a contemporary setting

The Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been re-imagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. A unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending twenty years in the USA, bringing a touch of globalization with him. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Hotel - Isola delle Rose. T: 041 8521300. www.jwvenice.com

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DINING

Kosher in Venice

PH © TIMOLINA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

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DINING ItalianSan labels. Vegetarian meals also served. com. Marco, 451(Calle degliare Specchieri). T: 041 €€€. www.lacalcina.com. Hotel La stop). Calcina. 5228123. Vaporetto line 1c/o or 2 (Rialto Map F4 Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto Da line Fiore 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6 A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topLa Conca d’Oro notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Located just steps from St.and Mark’s Square, La Thirty-five years ago, Mara Maurizio Martin Conca d’Oroan was Sicilian transformed oldestablished osteria intoby one of thebrothers city’s Giuseppe andrestaurants. Giovanni Costa, the founders most famous Impeccable service of and the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Sinceofthat time, superlative Venetian dishes composed carefully this Venetian institution has been outFiore selected seasonal ingredients haveturning made Da of thedestination. best pizza in town. on € (pizzeria) asome must-visit Closed Mondays.- €€€ €€€. (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria F4 stop). Map Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of La Portatradition, d’Acquafeaturing the purest expression Venetian Settaste just steps from the The Rialto Bridge, themain restaurant of and harmony. restaurant’s focus is is housed inand a 15th century building and decorated on seafood vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on with original frescoes dating back to faces 1700. directly Its cuisine its evocative terrace: the restaurant conjures the aroma of authentic Neapolitan onto the up Grand Canal offering diners an excellent cuisine, thanks ingredients sourced exclusively opportunity to to combine the pleasures of the palate fromaCampani. San with stunning €€€. viewwww.laportadacqua.it. over Venice’s lagoon. Open: Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). MapMonaco&Gran E4 €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto Lineadombra line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5 Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Harry’s Bar spot for a in romantic dinner you can enjoy all Founded the 1930s, this where legendary bar is the typicalfor flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. renowned its Bellini cocktails (originally www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, T: 041it2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 since first opened, of almost every famous name (Salute stop). Map E5 It is still a must-visit stopover to visit Venice. Today, for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity Locanda Cipriani to step back in time and savour its slightly retro For those who want to be close to Venice, and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

restaurant. A farmhouse exterior, stop) it T: 041 2411881. Vaporettofrom line the 5.1 (Zattere has1 been renovated withE5great charm, exuding or (Salute stop). Map an understated elegance with beautiful Trattoria Do Forni country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. The owner Eligio PatiesPiazza has managed to make locandacipriani.com. Santa Fosca 29 this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 by its Fondamente wide assortment of Venetian thanks to the from Nove directionfare, Burano, then quality of9the dishes take the line). Off and Mapa genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you Taverna al Remer of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” Located near totothe Bridge, this €€€. romantic and pay tribute theRialto history of Venice. www. ‘taverna’ isSan distinguished by its dei open-brick doforni.it. Marco, 468 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 decor, which lends line it an1 intimate, informal touch. 5232148. Vaporetto or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 Although the menu features simple, traditional Wildner dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual Opened the Fullin family in 1960, is pairings. by Closed on Wednesdays. €€€.itwww. patronized by locals and tourists Its alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041alike. 5228789. tranquil, atmosphere is further enhanced Vaporettorelaxed line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Map F3 Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves Trattoria Do Forni classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on this restaurant sought-after Tuesdays. €€€.ac/o Pensione destination, Wildner. Castello, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 fare, to the quality the dishes and a or 5.1thanks (San Zaccaria stop).ofMap G4 genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Dal Mas Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Located justline a few minutes the railway this Vaporetto 1 or 2 (Sanfrom Zaccaria). Map station, F4 pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, Wildner ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those a sweet Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it iswith patronized tooth will be delighted know Dal Mas is also by locals and tourists to alike. Itsthat tranquil, relaxed aatmosphere chocolate shop whereenhanced you can find servings is further bysingle a spectacular of mousse, miniBasin Sacher ‘cannoli’ brightlyview over the of torte, St. Mark’s. Its and menu is mainly coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde ainfew Saor’. metres the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3 Closedfrom on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Pasticceria Italo Didovich or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Rosa Salva This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Top-notch, prevalently fish-based, traditional Italian specialties and traditionalDO Venetian Venetian cuisine at TRATTORIA FORNI. dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Terrazza Danieli

Do Leoni

Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com The restaurant masterfully creates epicurean aquarelles beyond expectations that depict delicacies from the Adriatic Sea, and culinary inspirations of modern Venetian and East Mediterranean origin. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.

Map E5

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Map F5

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5

Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this

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enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but


© #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET

Il Ridotto

Quadri

Glam

wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map

Venissa

Rosso Venissa

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Osteria da Fiore


TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE Abbazia Novecella

A thousand shades of orange Latest trend or age-old recipe? Loved, criticised and the object of debate among experts, Orange Wines are wines from the ancient tradition, re-evaluated through history as superior products. BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

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TASTING

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation. Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

A

s early as 5000/6000 years ago in the Caucasus (Georgia), Orange Wines were produced in buried amphorae. This technique was also used in the past in Europe, but after the two world wars it was completely forgotten. It was only at the start of the 1990s when a small group of experienced winemakers from Friuli revived it by experimenting with the ancient technique combined with modern scientific know-how, thus achieving excellent production levels. Today there are wine-growers all over the world devoted to this outstanding product.

control, to allow a “spontaneous” fermentation; a reference to ethics, ecology and nature is therefore very much present. Once the alcoholic fermentation is concluded, the winemakers proceed with the subsequent passage of ageing, which takes place, at their discretion, in glass, steel, amphora, cement or wood. Depending on the white grape variety used, the period for which the skins are retained and the ageing method adopted, wines are obtained with colour tones ranging from ancient gold to topaz, from orange to amber; the hues can be bright, lively and intense, sometimes even with a certain opalescence, because they are not normally clarified and filtered and are, in any case, also virtually sulphite-free. A HARMONY OF PERFUMES AND AROMAS TO DISCOVER If this is your first time tasting a macerated white wine, your nose and palate will be surprised by the flavours and aromas. We are not referring to the “skin-contact wines” of 20 years ago, which perhaps had a few defects due to incorrect choices in the vineyard or the lack of hygiene standards in the wine cellar; we are referring to more intense, mature, plant-based and balsamic scents, such as aromas of resin, Mediterranean maquis, pine and eucalyptus. More enveloping, fuller flavours, with lively tannins (which make the mouth dry and rough) and mineral salts more present, which as a whole increase the body of the wine. But beware, do not allow yourself to be deceived by your habits: if you do not “find” certain habitual signs and aromas, you must not judge these wines negatively solely because they diverge from traditional tastes. What can you expect then? On the nose you will

detect notes of incense, propolis, smoke, tobacco, coffee, nougat, caramel. While for the family of fruity aromas we must imagine a mature, dehydrated, candied, baked fruit, preserved in alcohol (such as baked apple, candied lemon, dry fruit, cherry or plum preserved in alcohol)… and if we are referring to an excellent wine, there will be many other perfumes and aromas to discover. As regards the fourth taste examination, the aftertaste, we can generally define this as long and persistent, with all the perceived aromas. There is no real typical aftertaste of Orange wines, but only qualities that distinguish a “well made” product from one “made less well” and mean you are tasting a harmonious, persistent and elegant wine. FROM FRIULI TO CONQUER THE WORLD The pioneer of the rebirth of macerated wines is an Italian producer, Joško Gravner. In the late 1990s he went against convention, overturning all the concepts of winemaking of that time. During a stay in California, he encountered the presence of uniform, characterless wines on the market. He therefore decided to change direction and take a trip to the cradle of wine, Georgia. There he found the right inspiration and, returning to his winemaking estate in Gorizia (in Friuli), he began experimenting with vines, amphorae and ancient methods. This combination of ancient practices and modern experimentation made him famous all over the world. He was then joined by a close circle of local winemaking friends, such as Radikon, Maule and others. A short documentary tells the story of Orange Wines since 1997, explaining in detail the origins of that wave that has now spread all over the world: “Skin Contact: Development of an Orange Taste”. Gravner

HOW DOES VINIFICATION TAKE PLACE AND WITH WHAT DIFFERENCES? The difference between the various methods of production determines the more or less intense “orange” colour. In short, white wine is vinified as though it were red wine: so the grapes are not pressed and separated immediately after the harvest, but rather the components of the juice, skin and berries are allowed to macerate together for a variable period, from one day up to a few months. The maceration of the skins has the effect of extracting those substances that are responsible for the tactile taste sensation and coloration of the wine. Fermentation usually takes place thanks to indigenous yeasts and without temperature w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   31


TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE

AUTHOR'S TIPS

Here is a selection of excellent macerated wines from the North to the South of Italy, which have maceration on the skins as the thread running through them, but with very variable times and methods, which may be differentiated by ageing in steel, glass, amphora, cement or wood.

Alto-Adige

Angiolino Maule

Abbazia di Novacella “Hora” Grape variety: Sylvaner 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.abbaziadinovecella.it

Sardinia

Dettori “Dettori bianco” Grape variety: Vernaccia 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.tenutedettori.it

Sicily

Frank Cornelissen “Munjebel bianco“ Grape variety: Grecanico Dorato 50%, Carricante 50% Maceration on skins: for 4 days Ageing: 18 months in fibreglass tanks www.frankcornelissen.it

Friuli-Venezia Giulia • Gravner “Ribolla Gialla Anfora” Grape variety: Ribolla Gialla 100% Maceration on skins: long maceration in buried Georgian amphorae Ageing: 5 months in amphora, then 6 years in large oak casks www.gravner.it

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Damijan Podversic


TASTING • Damijan Podversic “Nekaj” Grape variety: Nekaj 100% Maceration on skins: for 60-90 days Ageing: 3 years in large casks, then 1 year in the bottle www.damijanpodversic.it • Skerk Grape variety: Vitovska 100% Maceration on skins: on average, 10 days in wooden vats Ageing: 12 months in small wooden vats, then 12 months in 50 hl wooden casks www.skerk.com

Veneto

Angiolino Maule “Pico” Grape variety: Garganega 100% Maceration: 2-3 days Ageing: 12 months in large 15 hl casks www.angiolinomaule.com

Skerk

Tre Monti

EmiliaRomagna Tre Monti “Vitalba” Grape variety: Albana 100% Maceration: 95 days Ageing: 10 months in Georgian amphorae (kvevri) www.tremonti.it

Lazio

Don Chisciotte Grape variety: Fiano 100% Maceration: 8-15 days Ageing: 8 months in steel www.ildonchisciotte.net

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area. Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chruch of Madonna dell'Orto

Tintoretto’s district The entire life of famous Renaissance painter, Tintoretto, revolved around a circumscribed area of Cannaregio. It was here that he was born, lived, worked and was buried. By Chiara Zaccarelli

B

efore circling it on a map or asking someone how to get there, remember that ‘Tintoretto’s district’ doesn’t officially exist in Venice. During his prolific career, Jacopo Robusti, better known as ‘Tintoretto’, received numerous commissions from churches, brotherhoods, the Republic and noble families throughout Venice. Many of his works, which today would be known as ‘site-specific’, are still housed in Venice, in the places for which they were conceived. For this reason, the whole city can be considered a widespread Tintoretto museum. However, a fairly circumscribed area, including a handful of streets in the heart of the Cannaregio district, which represent the beginnings and ending of the famous artist’s career, exists.

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The artist was born here in 1518 at number 3399 of the Fondamenta dei Mori, where he lived until his death in 1594, when he was buried in the church of Madonna dell’Orto, just a few blocks away. Although the 15th century Gothic building where Tintoretto lived bears a plaque in his memory, it’s off-limits to the public. However, you can visit his workshop next door, which serves as an atelier for painting, graphics and printing, and also organizes exhibitions, conferences, courses and seminars (www. tintorettovenezia.it). From here, just a little further on, a small bridge leads to the church of Madonna dell’Orto, considered one of Venice’s hidden gems, where Jacopo and his family are buried. Tintoretto worked on numerous paintings for the church including the

Last Judgment, the Worship of the Golden Calf and the Presentation of the Virgin Mary at the Temple. www.madonnadellorto.org

Tintoretto workshop


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

The “Scuole Grandi”

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Scuola di San Rocco

Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with

paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www.scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www.scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www.ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.

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Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.madonnadellorto.

org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Ghetto di Venezia

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Gambling and glamour

The Casinò di Venezia, opened in 1638, is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of a stately Renaissance home, both the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to top professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way to have fun. Situated on the first floor, the Wagner Restaurant offers the exclusive pleasure of refined dining with timeless delicacies and traditional Venetian fish specialities: three superb settings (the Sala Palma, Sala Gialla and Sala Rossa) are decorated with paintings and frescoes. And don’t miss the Marco Polo restaurant, ideal for a quick meal, offering creative trendy cuisine that includes Mediterranean and Venetian meat and fish dishes. www.casinovenezia.it/en. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop).

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This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious YOUR ING SINCE 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL ING COMPANION COMPANION celebration, marking the official end of1936® the Black Death, is held here. ® The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. M A G A Z I N E it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

where Venice WHERE WHEREITALIA ITALIASRL SRL

Via 20154 ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 Milano. Milano. Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari T:T:02 - Fax 02349951 349951 Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 Known by the- Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this info@where-venice.com info@where-venice.com landmark features 17 monumental altars and www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com

Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE

Although the whole of Venice lies on an

| SIGHTSEEING

archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

is the largest church in the city. This medieval

PUBLISHER PUBLISHERAND ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

church Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in Andrea Jarach Andreain Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous

EDITORIAL EDITORIAL people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. (PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE COMUNICAZIONE SRL) (PROEDI

01

chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. MANAGINGVaporetto DIRECTOR line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi Daniele Misrachi Map D4 EDITORIALCOORDINATION COORDINATION EDITORIAL

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One of the city’s most important examples e ElenaBinda, Binda,Romena Romena Brugnerotto, Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Paolo is considered the Pantheon ofDaviddi, Venice www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida because all the Stefania VenetianVida doges, starting from Elena Peverata, the 13th century, are buried here, Giudici, together with MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale numerous other notable personages. www. Joy Lacanlale basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on redazione@where-venice.com the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Shutterstock Map F3 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by- Dmitry Goloub Scala Contarini del Bovolo Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, building. However, makes it such Renna, a popular Isa Faleschini, Martawhat Mailhac, Rachele Isa Faleschini, Marta Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni attraction today, wasMailhac, the addition, by its architects, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") in 1499, of an&amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) PRODUCTION CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT like lace. stairwell enclosed inGrilli a cylinder perforated COORDINATOR Paola Grilli of the stairwell, combined COORDINATOR The architectural beauty ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto with the view that can Greto be enjoyed on reaching the ADMINISTRATION Katia LOCAL Traine (T: 340 3026288) top, is MARKETING well worth aStefano visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10amLOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) 1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. (maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER Garbini, Silvia Maggi Vaporetto SERVICES line 1 or Cristina 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina Map REG. TRIB.E4 MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Bernitz, of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni

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Scuola Grande dei Carmini

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPAROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of anBYancient and all its original Although the publisherbrotherhood has made PRINTED GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in the eventPONTE of thereFORMELLO, being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to LOCALITÀ 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE furnishing and a holders number of priceless oilBG apologize to the copyright in question whose names will bepaintings published in the next Although theissue. publisher has made every effort toThe include copyrightbuilds credits, in have been preserved intact. drama the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to when toentering Sala del Capitolo, whose apologize the copyrightthe holders in question whose names will be published inIN theITALY next issue. Where® isnine also published incanvases Milan by ceiling Where®features Italia, in Romeexceptional by Tourist Media srl painted by theby brotherhood’s most famous and in Naples IES Comunicazione srl IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Open Mediadaily srl EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry. w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   37

IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological

COURTESY PALAZZO GRASSI; PH: ORCH ORSENIGO_CHEMOLLO

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several

16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle GuglieGhetto stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ducale

Eight Centuries of Art

The Dorsoduro Museum Mile connects eight museums along a mile long path in the Dorsoduro district, between the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal. On an itinerary of eight centuries of world art history, visitors can admire masterpieces of Venetian painting from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance in the Gallerie dell'Accademia and the latest contemporary production on display at the Punta della Dogana. On the way, visitors can also explore the former homes of great collectors such Vittorio Cini and Peggy Guggenheim and view their respective collections. The entrance ticket of one of the above museums will allow visitors to enter any of the other institutions at a special rate. www.palazzograssi.it – www.guggenheim-venice.it – www.gallerieaccademia.it – www.palazzocini.it

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A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Teatro La Fenice

Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Peggy Guggenheim Collection | Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume

Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert There never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the bestloved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a

visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com www.teatrolafenice.it. Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E

Maria Callas

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OUT OF TOWN

Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii

Verona and the Adige river

Although the Arena attracts music loversaficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house (in via Cappello 23) with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony (an interesting fact: you can now get married on the balcony

where Romeo promised his undying love for Juliet), while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. For more information visit www. sposamiaverona.it). Before leaving the house of Shakespeare’s heroine, don’t forget to

AMIDST ROMANTICISM AND BIEN VIVRE Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates vistors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Above all, Verona is is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life, which is further heightened in summer by a one-ofa-kind stage, its ancient Arena (the second largest amphitheatre after Rome’s Colosseum, dating back to the 1st century B.C.). The venue hosts a rich calendar of events including opera, Aida is not to be missed, – classical, rock and pop concerts, as well as ballet featuring some of the world’s most famous stars. 40  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

Marostica

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MILANO Mantua

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Padua

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Palmanova

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Treviso

FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA

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MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

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CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page and on the right, aerial views of Verona, founded on the banks of the Adige some time in the 2nd century BCE. The city of the Arena (below) and of Romeo and Juliette, it is a World Heritage site. Many of the most famous Veneto villas are also protected by UNESCO: below, Villa Pisani in Stra.

touch the right breast of her statue. According to legend, this gesture brings good luck and helps you find true love. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on, and the crypt of what used to be the ancient monastery of San Francesco al Corso still houses the young Capulet’s tomb, for centuries, a pilgrimage for die-hard romantics. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. For more info visit www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

Piazza delle Erbe, Verona

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Located approximately thirty kilometers from Venice (see photo), it is probably the most famous of all Venetian villas. Built in 1721 and set within one of the most beautiful parks in Italy (renowned for its famous maze of love), its interiors are enhanced by numerous works of art, including the magnificent ceiling frescoed by Tiepolo. The villa, built in honour of the 114th Doge of Venice, Alvise Pisani, originally had 114 rooms and has hosted half of Europe’s ‘aristocracy’, who holidayed in the area, as well as numerous heads of state, including Napoleon, Mussolini and Hitler (their first meeting was held here in 1934). Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta.

Arena, Verona

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OUT OF TOWN | VENETO This nickname, according to legend, derives from the story of a noblewoman, Elisabetta Dolfin, who was locked up here after allegedly being unfaithful to her husband. It was designed by the famous Renaissance architect, and is currently a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its linear, classical façade conceals frescoed rooms and luxurious interiors that are further enhanced in the evening by flickering candlelight. At the request of its owners, the villa is still without electricity. Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex, is also found in the vicinity of Mira. In addition to the rococo-style manor house, it has a boathouse, a small chapel, a courtyard, a greenhouse and a large garden enhanced by a lake. While in Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni, famous for having hosted the famous ‘King’s dinner’, organized by Federico, the owner of the time, for the future king of France, at which 22 courses were served. The two marble lions from which the villa takes its name were actually an 18th century addition. The eyes of the original lions were set with precious stones, which sadly were stolen by Napoleon in 1807. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei, who lived there during the 17th century, and who was buried in the adjoining oratory. For further information visit www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

Chioggia

Vicenza

CHIOGGIA Also known as ‘little Venice’, thanks to its scenic canals, which are the focus of its urban layout, Chioggia is perched on the Southern tip of Venice’s Lagoon. With its colourful houses, set closely together and intermittently interspersed with majestic churches and austere, aristocratic palazzi, Chioggia has maintained all the distinctive features of a fishing village. The most ancient part, a maze consisting of labyrinthine alleys and canals spread across a handful of islets resembles a docked ship, and is only connected to the mainland by a few streets, one of which leads to the long beach of Sottomarina, a perfect spot to enjoy a relaxing break. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 55 km by car or 1.30 hour (battello line19) VICENZA Vicenza, the birthplace of famous Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, boasts the largest 42  W H E R E V E N I C E I JSAAEPPNRTUA I LE M 2R021 BYE2021 R 2 016

number of UNESCO World Heritage sites. The town alone, features thirty nine, including palaces, villas and churches, with an additional 16 villas in the province, bringing the total to forty seven. The heart of Vicenza is the majestic Palladian Basilica, renovated in 2012 and surrounded by magnificent aristocratic palaces including the Loggia del Capitaniato, the neoclassical Palazzo Chiericati and Casa Pigafeta, with its elaborate Gothic decorations. Just outside the historic centre, three villas designed by Palladio are also worth visiting: the Rotonda, Villa Gazzotti Grimani and Villa Trissino. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 75 km

PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel . No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz'. cocktail.

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km


OUT OF TOWN

Padua

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MANTUA

This is the place where love meets chess. Standing in the middle of its main square is a huge marble chessboard where every second weekend of September a spectacular chess game is played by people dressed up in costumes, the re-enactment of a historical event dating back to 1454, when two knights who loved the same lady, decided to compete for her in a noble game of chess rather than engaging in a traditional duel. The winner married the girl… while the loser married her sister! Because the lady was secretly in love with the winning knight, she expressed her joy by illuminating the town’s castle, which still dominates the town from the top of a hill. The castle is now a romantic restaurant. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 95 km

“A city shaped like a Palazzo”: this delightful description given by academic and diplomat Baldassarre Castiglioni perfectly renders the idea of the charms and treasures offered by Mantua. Small and well designed, the city is, first and foremost, an original mixture of history and art. Originally an Etruscan settlement, it achieved its full splendour in Medieval times and, in particular, during the reign of the Gonzaga family, the Dukes of Mantua who conquered the city in 1328 and ruled benevolently until 1707. Important monuments including Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo del Podestà, Palazzo della Ragione and the churches of San Lorenzo (the "Rotonda") and S.Maria del Gradaro also date back to this period. The city is the Italian Capital of Culture 2016. DISTANCE FROM VENICE : 155 km

Mantua

VILLA BARBARIGO

Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, in addition to one of the most beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town. The villa, which was used as a residence prior to the design of its monumental garden, complements the majestic park. The garden was built during the second half of the 17th century by Venetian nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio. It was, the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the religious symbolism of the project designed by leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor Gianlorenzo. This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 statues sculpted in Istrian stone. There are also other minor sculptures that blend harmoniously with the architecture, streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features and fish pools that are scattered amidst numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more than 10 hectares of land. www.valsanzibiogiardino.com w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   43


© NULLPLUS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

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talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44  W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 021

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   45


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VERONA

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

LA

CROSERA

CALLE

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

C.

DEL

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

GALLO

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

TERÀ

DEL

RIO

CALLE

DE

MOISE’

XXII MARZO

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

SA PISCINA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA

DEI

CALLE

REDIVO

CALLE

CALLE GOLDONI

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEL

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

MEZO

C.

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

REMER

CALLE

FABBRI

CALLE

DE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

CASSELERIA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

DEL

TAGIAPIERA LE

LIO

BEMBO

SAN

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

MADONA

San Fantin CALLE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

VENEZIA

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

SALIZADA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

MARZARIA

C.

C.

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

O DEL

CALLE

DOLERA

DEL

Teatro la Fenice

San Gregorio

DEL FORNO

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

SAN

COCCO

CALLE CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA

SALIZADA

SANTO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

TEATRO

ASSASSINI

CALLE

CAMPO

SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

CALLE

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin CALLE

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CALLE

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

DEI PUTI

CALLE

SPIRITO

TERÀ

RIO

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

ZATTERE

CINQUE

C.

SAN CALLE

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

FONDAMENTA ALLO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Giudecca Hilton

DEI

Santo Stefano

Accademia

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

AI GESUATI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

LE

CALLE

DE

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

nde G ra

SAN

CROSERA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

TOSCANA

SAMUELE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli) CALLE

DEL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DE

S.

San Vidal

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

PRIULI

CALLE

DONZELA

LEZZE

CARROZZE

DEL PISTOR

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

NOVA

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

FALIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA

LA

FOND.

CALLE

LONGO

IA

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

BECARIE

DE

enzera

O

LA

C.

CALLE

IC

CAMPO DE LA

ORESI

Bacino

ER

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

e Scom

IS

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

DEL SOL

PARANGON

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Canal

M

FONDAMENT

VENDRAMIN

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

Palazzo Loredan

Zattere

VAPORETTO

TA

MUTI

RUGA

DE

ZATTERE

DEL

EN

CA'

San Felice

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

SALIZADA

CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

AM

DE

CALLE

DE LA

CARAMPANE

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

S. Samuele

FONDAMENTA

CA LLE

D

A A

San Cassiano CALLE DE

LE

DEL

DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

N

FONDAMENT

CAMPO

CALLE

DE

al Can

CA’ CORTE

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

dell'Orto

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

NA

Santa Fosca

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BONLINI

CA

NA

TIOZZI

SAN CASSAN

S. Toma' SX

CALLE BERNARDO

OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

DEI

San Tomà

CALLE

DE

NIE

DD

L’AGNELLA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

FONDAMENTA

PONTE

.DA

MA

CALLE

DE

FABBRICHE

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

FOND.

AL

LA

S.Stae

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

ZATTERE

DEI

FO

À D E

LE

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DE OGNISANTI

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN APONAL

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

della

Rio

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

DE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CROSERA

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

IA

La Maddalena

SCALETER

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

L’ASEO

FODAMENTA

CALLE CHIESA

RD

R

CALLE

DEL

DE

TINTOR

C. DE

SE NA

DEL

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

S. Basilio

DELLA

ICO

TENTOR

BOLDO

C.

CONTARINI

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

TRON

DEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

SAN

SOTOPORTEGO

CALLE

CALLE

RIO TERA’

MA

BARI

PRETI

RENIER

FOMO

CANAL RIO TERA’

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

LA

DEI

TOLENTINI

SEBASTIAN

DE

LARGA

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

MORETTI

C.

DEI

SAN

se A ric or dia

C.

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

MEZO

CAMPO

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DE

VECCHIO

CHI DEL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FONDAMENTA BESAGIO

MIS

E DEL PISTO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

NOVA

DEI

VECCHIO BERGAMAS

SIMEONE

SAN

della

STRADA

DE

DE LA VIDA

CALLE

TERÀ

CALLE TRAGHETTO

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

GUARDIANI

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DEI

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

Marco Polo 6 deiFontego Tedeschi

LE

NA

C.

NUOVA

CALLE SAN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

CALLE

del

TA

SE

CALLE

LUNGA

RIO

ROSSA

SALIZADA

DORSODURO

TINTORETTO

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

A E M

CALLE

BASEGO

Rio dei Tolentini

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

Rio

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

EN

RIO

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

OCHE

LATTE

San Rocco

Muneghete

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

LL

DIA

CAZZIOLA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

AM

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

C.VENZATO

LA

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

CAMPO SAN ROCCO SAN

FONDAMENTA

RIELO

LORENZO

TA

METO

ce

Angelo Raffaele

LARDONI

ND

I

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

RIO

DE

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

Giudecca Hilton

CALLE

SACCA SAN

VE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

i ia e

CALLE

LER

EONARDO

CAMPIELLO

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA CALLE ORSETTI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

BARI LISTA

FONDAMENT

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

RAMO

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE CONTARINA

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

EN

SAL IZAD

RR

DE L’OGIO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

BIASIO

DI

RIVA FONDAMENTA

San Simeone Profeta

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Hundertwasser' Garden

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CA

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

FONDAMENTO

NO

C AL

LA RG A

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

TE

Santi Apostoli

n

NICOLO’

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

NS

CALLE ORTI

angelica ana

te alto

SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SE

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

. S.A

LI

MARTA

SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

L' ARZERE

IU

Rio Nuovo RIZZI

PROCURATIE

DEI FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Soranzo Cappello

LA

San Nicola da Tolentino

PENSIERI

MADONA

DE

FO ND

AM

DEI

FONDAMENTA

LA

FONDAMENTA

ND

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

DE

SPAGNA

TERÀ

Giardino di Palazzo

DE

DEI AMAI

CALLE

Del

EN

NUOVE

CAMPO

PAPADOPOLI

TABACCHI

FO

EN

FONDAMENTA

NUOVA

AM

FON.

CALLE

VENEZIA

RIO

CALLE

CASE CORTE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

ER LE P

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia DI LISTA RIO

SCALZI

Ferrovia

CROCE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

CAL

FONDAMENTA

MISERICOR

LIBERTÀ

ND

TERÀ

AM

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

LA

DELLA

FO

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FONDAMENTA

ND

INE

Rio

DE

PONTE

CROCE FABBRICA

ZZ

CANNAREGIO

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

Sensa FO

PU

San Girolamo

Ponte degli Scalzi DEI

TERÀ

CA

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CAVALLETT

I

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

LE

O

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

DE

AM

CA

CALLE

AI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO

TA

OL

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

O

MERCATO

EN

CANNAREGIO

CALLE

TRONCHETT

DIREZIONE

AM

N G IR

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

NOVA DEL

ND

SA

LLO

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

Canale

GIOBBE

San Giobbe

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

di Sant'Alvise

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

DEI

AM

B AT

CALLE

ND

MUNEGHE

TA

LE

FORNER

EN

DE

DEL

AM

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

COLETTI FO

ND

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CARLO

FO

SEBASTIANO

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

BRAGADIN

PENITENTI

VENIER FONDAMENTA

LARGA

CANNAREGIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

SESTIERE

TA’

FOSCARI

ER

CALLE

B

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

RUGA

Parco

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI F O N D A M E N TA

SANGIANTOFFETTI

LI

EREMITE

LA

FONDAMENTA

EL

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

NANI

A

FONDAMENTA

VI

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

15 TORCELLO 16 SAN CLEMENTE

PALACE KEMPINSKI

11 LIDO DI VENEZIA

S. Servolo

H

7

I

w w w.wh e re -ve n ic e. com   47

L


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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 NH Collection Venezia Grand Hotel Palazzo dei Dogi– Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Palazzina Grassi – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 The St. Regis Venice – San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3

Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Maison Venezia | UNA Esperienze – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Venezia Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 NH Venezia Santa Lucia – Cannaregio, 116/A (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D2 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Residenza Ducato – San Marco, 4283 • F4 Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4

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