Where Venice n 29 January 2019

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

JANUARY 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

Mysterious

V ENICE Discovering the secrets of the world’s most fascinating Lagoon

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY OUT OF TOWN

A weekend getaway in the Dolomites SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


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Venice January 2019 12

SHOPPING

the guide

Max Mara

10 SHOPPING

Barovier&Toso recently opened an exclusive shrine of luxury dedicated to its creations

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

SIGHTSEEING

26 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Parco San Giuliano

M9 Museum

E

A

IAN

OND

OSS

ROT

CAN

LA

GA

DE

LAR

LE

LE

CAL

CAL

O

ITEL

CAP

E

E DEL

G PIAV

LAR

A

HIA

ROS

CC

GA

VE

A

E

MASEN

RT

LA

DE

CALLE

NA

ERI

i stol ti Apo San

I

DE LA PIETA’

ETTO

E ALLO

SPIRIT

CALLE ZUCCHERO

CALLE

ZATTER

O SANTO

FONDAME

DE LA SACA

FO

FISOLA RI

PON

TE

ND

AM

EN

TA

SA

N

BIA

GI

O

DEI LE

LLA STE

CAL

LE CAL

ERO

STEL LA

SQU

CALL E

NTI DICA

can

ndi ENTA

Me

DEI

MEN

ti

LE

DEL FON

TEST A

Rio

E DE

CALL

ANA BRESS

VENIERA CALLE

CALLE

DOSE E DEL CALL

O IOL

SO

TAR

ADI

FRU

PAR DEL

LE

CAL

LEONARD O

LA SACRESTIA

CALLE RIMPETTO

C. CORONA

NAVE

VOLT

LA DE

DEL

C.

LE

DEL

CAL

C.

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

PISCIN A SAN

BAL OTE LE DE CAL LE

LO SA RE TE ZAT

Chiesa San Giorgio M

AM

ND

S. Giorgio

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo CALLE

CAL

BAN DI

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

FO

BRAG

TA

INCURA

BILI

FOND

AMEN

PISCINA

MENTA

DAM

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR

dei

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

CAL LE

S. Zaccaria (

NI

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CATECUMENI

I

FONDA

R I VA

O

AI

RIO TERRÀ

FORNACE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

SALON

CALLE DEL NAVARO

CALLE DE LE RASSE

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

EI BAS BOM

ILE

LE

APR II

CAL

IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

LOV O DEL CAL LE

LA

I

ZZ

ce

PO

Dol

DO

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

LI

R

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CALLE DEI FUSERI

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LLE

CALLE

CA

DI

CA

CAN

VEC A

RUG

SALIZADA

RC

TA

DEL SABION

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

TERRÀ

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

Dei

CAT

TA

SAN

ARINI

LUN

GA

FOSC

MP

CA

de

ER

ICO

RD

IA

Can ale

. MIS

ND

FO

HET A

RAC

LA

DE

ICE

LLE

FEL

CA

SAN

NTA

ME

DA

FON

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

CA

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

RO

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

C.

SAN TA

CAM PO

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

CA

C.

TIA

SAN CHI

A

CALL

E DE

GIO

L’ARC

VAN

O

NI

MAT

San Gregorio

CORTE

A N M

EN

O STIAN

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

DE CAL LE

DEL

C.

A ROS DEL LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM DEL LE

CAL

I

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO CALL E DE

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DA PONTE DOGE DEL

CALLE DEL BASTION

A

ADIN

SA

DEGLI

Salute

RIO

GNESE

SAN LE

CAL

A

INA REG LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA MENTA FONDA

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

TRA GHE TO

IO MEG E DEL CALL

NO

E

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

A

LE

AD

CAL

LIZ SA

UE GR LE

INA TI

DE

RM

TA

CA

EN

AD

AM

LIZ

ND

SA

FO

DO ON SEC A’

CRI STO

TER

DEL CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

ORB I DEI

CAL LE

MUN EGH E

LE DE

CAL LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI

NANI

CAR FOS RÀ TER RIO

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

Rio

LAR LE CAL

CO

FA

COLOM

GO

FONTE

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

SALITA

GA LAR LE CAL

RIO

NESI

LI

ALBA

LIPO TA CALL

DURO RE DORSO

SESTIE

FOSCARI

CALLE

TA

Moise

FOND

RIVA

I

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

ESSO

TREDIC

Rio

CALLE

E

LO

VONI SCHIA

VALLAR

CALLE

EREMIT

Palazzo Ducale

MO

CALLE

MENTA

O

SIONE

FONDA

RC

Museo Correr ASCEN

OTTI

LARGA

DEI CORTELL

MA

C. PIA

o

CALLE

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

O

DEL TRAGHETTO

VAPOR

CALLE DEL FIGHER

Palazz

O

ETT

CALLE

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

CA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

C.

CALL

TI,

FA R S

ET RS

RIO T ERÀ

TE

RIO

BINA

CALLE

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

O ROCC E SAN CALL

E DEI CALL

RG LA

LLE

CA

CALLE

QUERIN

,

ZO MEZ CALL

E DI F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU A

RA

E STRE

A CI LU NT A SA TA

LO

EN

CO

AM

De e al an C O TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

PO

NE

I IN ZZ

GA

MA

San Giovanni No

DEL

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

EOL

ALL CAV

ORS

San Moisè

SAN

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

EDIO REM

SAN

Rio Del

AI

CORTE NUOVA

A GIUFF

RO

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

RUGA

ze ra

Santa Maria Formosa Pala Grim

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

LE CAL

LARGA

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

E BIAN CALL

ZZA

ORBI

DE LE

E DEI

GIO ROLO DELL’O

DEL

A ENT

CA

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALL

CA TAS

CORTE

C.DEI

PIA

C

CORTE TREVISAN

REMER

O

O DEL

O SAT MUS

CALLE

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Osped

Basili Santi Giova

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

DEL FORNO

RIO

C.

SARTOR

CALLE DEL PESTRIN CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

DE LE ERBE

San Giuliano

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

CARRO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

À

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

LIO

IA DAR SPA

E C.

TER

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

DAM

MOIS

SA

LICINI

BRI FAB

C. DEL

NA

CORTE

LUCATE LLO MAR ZAR IA DEI SAN PIGN ZUL OLI IAN

ARIA MARZ

LE

AZZ

VE

IS

FORNO

E DEI CALL

DEL

FON

NA

PISCI

SAN

C. LARGA

RUBBI

MEZ O

C.

DEI

IOL

XXII MARZO

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE

NO

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

LI

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

DE LA FAVA

CORTE

CAL LE

LE CAL

C. DE LE COLONNE

ET

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRI ELI

A

ERIA SEL CAS

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

LE CAL

I

LARGA

CASTEL

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

GIAZZO

CAP

TE

RLE ND

G. GALLIN

LIO

BRI FAB

VERO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO CALICE

IAPIE RA BALO TE

EN

E

LARGA

CALLE

I

CORTE GRAGOLINA

STR

ERIA

DEL

OL

AM

LLE BE

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

SAN

DEI

LA

MINELL

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

AC

ND

ERI

CA

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

DA

r

LE CAL

DI

WID

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

DA

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG LE

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

CALLE

SALVAD OR

MAR ZARI A DEL

do

DE

CORTE

Santa Maria del Giglio

SAN

C.DE

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

C. DEL

SABION

BOT

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

N

DE

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

MARZA RIA

lva

C.

CALLE

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DEI

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador Sa

I

ASSA

DRIO

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

n

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FO GA

VAR ISCO

S.Canciano LE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

SSIN

SAN

TERÀ

CALLE

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LAR

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

X

Sa

E

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

FONTEG

PIO

Rio

OPIA PISC

BON CAR

A LUC

NDE LOCA

San Fantin

R

LE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

IZA

BO BEM

DEL

LL

RAMO

RIOL

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

DEL

LE CAL

CALLE

CA

FRUTA

SAL

LE CAL

E CALL

RO TEAT LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

TEATRO

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

MARCO

ETIE

CAL

CAL

BARBA

O

QUE

ZIO

CIN

RE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SALI ZZA DA

ONA

CAF

I

R

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Rialto

VER

en

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

E VENIE

COCCO

DEI

SAN

RTA

CHIES

DEL FORNO

CALL

CALL

SARTORI

San Giovanni Grisostomo

LA

om

ULI

C. DEL

A

LE

CAN

A

Sc

TOS

DI

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra

ze

en

m

O

TIM RIT MA O

PRI

E

ZEN

CALLE

DE

E

RIO

DE

le

LE

C.

DOL

na

CAL

LLI CAVA

Ca

SI

ON

E CALL

NER COR

DEL

DELLA

SALIZADA

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

ENTA

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORE

ANG

E CALL

CALL

LE

CALLE

UZZI

DAM

REA

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

N

CAL

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE CAPP

E CALL

CAOTO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

NANI

VE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RIO

CALLE

GNES

NO

RINA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

STU

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

GO

TEA TR O

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

NT'A

VA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia C.SA

NO

DEL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

DEL PISTOR

ENT A

CAL LE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

CALLE

DAM

Santa Sofia

DA

LE

LINI

SI

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

RA

CAL

. NARI

CATE

FOND.

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

nde

SAN

BOT EGH E

IER

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

DEI LAVRANE

TE

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  1

Giudecca Hilton

LARGA

LE

FAL

E AI GESUA TI

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

DE

LE

ZATTER

CHIESA

FOND

CRO SER A

. S.AND

FON

CAL

ENTA

NO

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

ST

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

MENTA

DELLA

EN

CALLE

TA

FON

FOND

San Silvestro

DE L

CAL

FONDA

CALLE

AM

CAL

RAVA

DEL

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Gra

TI OCA

LON

ETA

RUGH

MAN

TE

S.

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

ND

ENTA

SAN

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

À

PON

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Sant’Aponal DEL

AVV

E AL

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

AMP ANE

TER

TER

CAR

LE

DAM

BON

ZAT

MUT I

RIO

FON

NTA

LE

CAL

San Trovaso

CA’

C.

DA IZA SAL

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

ANI GRIM

AME

FO

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

CAL LE CA’ VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

OZZE CARR

STU A

E CALL

Ca' Rezzonico

I

LA

ZI

SANT

DEL

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

GALIZ

OGNI

N

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele LE

IN

DEI

. DE

DE

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo RAMO

OL

C.

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

E DE CALL

AP

A

San Tomà

CHI TODES

FOD S. Basilio

FOND

DE

BOT A

CARAMPANE À

al Can

C. DEI

TI

TER

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

TR

ZEL

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

LE SAMUE

DE OGNISAN

LA

RIN PEST

ENTA

MI

CAMPO APONAL

SERA

FONDAM

RIO

LE CAL

Accademia

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

CAL LE DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

A S. PISCIN

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

IO

RA

DON SAN PER

DEI PUTI

IAN

BESAG

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

L’AG NEL LA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

E CRO

AST

DA SAN

DE

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

SEB

SALIZA

DORSODURO

SCA LET

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

DEL

ER

CALLE BERNARDO

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

A ENT

I

DAM

DON

CALLE SAN BASILIO

O

C.

SAN POLO

A

IA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

E DEL CALL

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

LE PAZIENZ

FON

LAR

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DE INC INI

O

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DO

CALL

NI

EN

C. DE

DIA

AM

RIO TERA’

AR

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

ZI

HETT

E DE

TIOZ

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

CAMPO DEI FRARI

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

DON

SER

DEI

FORNO

CRO

LE

SAN

C.

ND

DEL

LE

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

TRAG

GU

Angelo Raffaele

O

LE

OR

E DEL

LLE

ND

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CANAL RIO TERA’

CA

RIELO

LORENZ

CAL

NT

CALL

CALL

FOMO

SSA

FO

C. SAN

C.

O

TA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

E ZANE

nde Canal Gra

RO

RE

OLO

E TRON

TE

IC

EN

San Felice

MADONA

CAL

Santa Fosca

' VE

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

I

R

I

NTA

L' ARZE

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LE

Car

L

ER

AM

DE

CA

CAMPO SAN STIN

ORE

PRET

E RENIE

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

USE

ME

TA DE

NIC

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

del

DE

IS

ND

ERA

TINT

E DEI

TA

M

FO

CAL LE

DE LA

LE

N

EN

CALLE

CAL

TALO

AM

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Mu

PAN

ND

NA

SA

TA

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

LA

SAN

NA

E DOL

N

le

TERÀ

ALE

CALL

de

RIO

E C A

FO

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

E

A

MA

RAMO

CALL

CALLE

min

I

Rio

INI

HE BRIC FAB

OCHE

TTO

DA

AMEN

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

IAT

NT AR

DEI

LAC

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

BR

CO

PAR

LA

San Pantalon

CALLE CONTARINA

i

TA

C.

MEZ

GHE

I

TA

a de

rto

EN

LE

E

DE

TRA

CERER

EN

nn

ll'O

AM

DE

RT

E OCH LE

CALL

FON

N

D

DE

LA TT

N

ETTI MOR

CALLE ORSETTI

C.VE

LA

LA

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

DEL

TA PROC

DE L’OGIO

LE

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

LE

DEI

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

DE LA VIDA

CAL

NZAT

DE

À D E

CAL

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

AM

do

C.

PO

RAMO

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

MADON

LA

ND

Ma

A

DE

LA

IA ESI

LE

DE

A A MART SANT

FO

lla

RUG

LE

DE

CIM

NUOVO

CAL

A

CALLE

TA

o de

GO RTE OPO SOT

TA

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

TER

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

O

CALLE DELL'OLIO

NE

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

TI

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

DAR O

A SAN

O

a

FO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

Miser

icordi

R

L’ISOLA

TOR

EN

tini

RIO

DE

TIN

I

AMEN

LA

FOND

E

TERA’

I

ZO

RAM

CIM

ete

SAL

Rio dei Tolen MENTA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

CH

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE CAL

CALL

FONDA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

LE

L

OT

O

BASEG

IO

Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. D O R S O D U R O URATI

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAL

AS

NA

gh

OTT

en

CALLE

O

LE CAL

NE

CA

E

ne

Ma

della

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

AM

E DEL PISTO

San Marcuola

A

ESI

ENT A MIN

Rio

RIO

DEL REMER

I

EO

RT

ND

BAR

SIM LUN

IA

Rio

CALL

CAMPIELLO

BIAS

DI

BAR

TA

LIS

FO

DEI

N

ZIO

A RIVA

GA

SA LA

RD

EONARDO

San Leonardo

LAR

A OV DE

DEI AMAI

Rio

Del

LE P

RIO

NU

RE

ENT

VE

PO

ICO

SAN LEONARDO

C.

LLE

A CO

O

DAM

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

I CALLE ORSETT

NG

DI

N

San Simeone Profeta

LU

Ma

DAM

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

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JANUARY 2019

Located just steps from Campo Manin, Scala Contarini del Bovolo, a rare gem of Venetian architecture, features a striking combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine architectural elements

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO ITALY ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher will host a series of special events. The full program Where ® Italia of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

Don’t miss the museum dedicated to the Great Genius, lying adjacent the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Bottom: one of the six exhibition rooms of the Museo Leonardo da Vinci at the Scoletta di San Rocco. www.davincimuseum.it

www.whereitalia.com/venice PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE ITALIA

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) EDITORIAL MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION

Elisabetta Giudici, Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF

Chiara Fonzi (redazione@whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction) ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia - 2018 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.or Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com) HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4  CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces,

churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 

CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

Series In between (self-portrait, 2007) © Simona Ghizzoni. Below, Esercizi di stile #1 (2006) © Silvia Camporesi.

PHOTOGRAPHY

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FEMALE SELF-PORTRAITS

This is a display of fifty photographs by five established Italian photographers, chosen specifically for their work in the field of self-representation. The exhibition includes DECEMBER FEBRUARY Guia Besana’s surreal photographs, Silvia 2018 2019 Camporesi’s self-portraits showcased alongside images of abandoned places, the series of photographs taken in houses inhabited temporarily by Anna Di Prospero in New York, Simona Ghizzoni’s ‘therapeutic’ self-portraits and Moira Ricci’s search for the ‘right medium’. Who am I? Self-portraits, identity, reputation Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa. Galleria di Piazza San Marco, 71/c www.comune.venezia.it/chi-sono-io

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ART

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AN ILLUMINATED COLLECTION

This exhibition offers visitors a unique opportunity to view the entire Schulhof Collection. The works that are displayed JANUARY MARCH chronicle the evolution of the artistic movements and styles from post-World War II to the 1980s. The collections show the original body of work that focused on Abstract Expressionism and Informal Art, and embrace Minimal Art, Post-painterly Abstraction painting and conceptual art, with works by Willem de Kooning, Mark Rothko, Lucio Fontana, Jean Dubuffet, Anselm Kiefer, Andy Warhol and Robert Ryman. From gesture to form. Post-war European and American Art from the Schulhof Collection Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Dorsoduro, 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it

Ellsworth Kelly, Blue Red (1964). Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, Hannelore B. e Rudolph B. Schulhof Collection, Hannelore B. Schulhof legacy, 2012. © Ellsworth Kelly.

JANUARY

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

EXHIBITION

OPERA

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MARCH

THE BEAUTY OF RUINS The ruins are a vital element in the history of western civilization. They symbolize the presence of the past, suspended between destruction and reconstruction. In order to give viewers an idea of the historic complexity of the concept, this exhibition spans several centuries from the first legends of destruction to the ‘iconoclastic terrorism’ of Isis with the destruction of Palmyra, via the ruins of the Twin Towers. The exhibition, held in collaboration with the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, is hosted at Palazzo Fortuny.

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IN-HOUSE OPERA

The Musica a Palazzo ensemble offers a new and captivating way to experience opera. A travelling show, where each act takes place in JANUARY a different room of one of Venice’s most beautiful ‘palazzi’. Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto, whose magnificent Baroque furnishings act as a natural complement to the set design, hosts three masterpieces of opera on different days: the Barber of Seville, Rigoletto and, our recommendation, La Traviata. During the interval, guests can enjoy an aperitivo in the rooms overlooking the Grand Canal. Musica a Palazzo, La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto. San Marco, 2504 (Fondamenta Duodo o Barbarigo) www.musicapalazzo.com

FutuRuins Palazzo Fortuny. San Marco, 3958 (Campo San Beneto). fortuny.visitmuve.it w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  5


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Mysterious PHOTO © SIMEONN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

VenICE

Ghosts, legends and even the Holy Grail. Venice has a dark side that is just as captivating as its luminous beauty. Discovering the secrets of the world’s most fascinating Lagoon. BY ELENA BINDA

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Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia

“D

on’t you realize? We’re caught in the middle of something sinister!” exclaimed Indiana Jones, the unforgettable archaeologist played by Harrison Ford, to his partner in the film, The Last Crusade. The “something sinister” was about the search for the Holy Grail. But at that moment, a gondolier singing a song, glided past on a dazzlingly beautiful day. “I love Venice!” whispered Indiana and, for the time being, everything else was forgotten. In spite of its irony, this scene contains some elements of truth. Behind its picture postcard appearance, Venice is an enigmatic city: exciting, but elusive, hard to grasp; iconic, but always somewhat mysterious. “Venice”, wrote American novelist Mary McCarthy, “is the world’s unconscious”: it’s something you need to deal with and, at the same time, you should accept the fact that it’s almost impossible to really know it. The reason for so many mysteries might have been the politics of the Maritime Republic of Venice: incredibly influential, but small and

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tenuous in comparison with the other powers, Venice had a strategic interest in jealously safeguarding its secrets, while mastering those of others. Today, Venice offers real mystery tours, encompassing absolutely everything: devils and ghosts, dragons and crusades, merchants turned to stone, and naturally, the Knights Templar. Because, as Indiana Jones knew well, Venice is one of the cities credited with hosting the Holy Grail. So, let’s get started! IN SEARCH OF THE GRAIL According to a medieval tradition, the Holy Grail is most commonly identified as the cup that was used to collect the blood of Christ at the Crucifixion. If it existed, it would have been a relic imbued with a strong symbolic power. For this reason, many people have searched for it over the centuries, and legends about it continue to flourish. According to one version of the story, the Knights Templar, a Catholic military order tasked with defending Christianity, brought the Holy Grail to Venice. During your tour of the Lagoon, although you can’t expect to see the Grail, you can follow its trail in at least two places. The first is the church of San Pietro di

IN A DRAGON SHAPE The Grand Canal snakes through Venice in a large ‘S’ shape as a dragon. It’s not by chance that the Island of San Giorgio is found at the end of its tail according to the most famous dragon-slaying tale of Saint George. Below, the ‘San Giorgio e il drago’ painting by Vittore Carpaccio (1502) stored at the Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni.

Castello, located in the Castello sestiere not far from the Arsenale. The basilica hosts a throne which, according to legend, belonged to St. Peter, an apostle and the first pope. It is here, inside the throne, that the chalice is allegedly hidden. There is some ‘evidence’ for supporters of this theory: Nicodemo de Besant-Mesurier, a French crusader and alleged custodian of the Grail, is buried in the church of San Barnaba, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro. As mentioned above, this version was supported by renowned film director Steven Spielberg, who chose to set the adventure of Indiana Jones’ search for the Holy Grail in Venice. In 1989, the scene where Elsa takes Indy to the (imaginary) library that leads to a hidden catacomb, was shot in the church of San Barnaba. FREEMASONRY AND KNIGHTS TEMPLAR Several of Venice’s mysteries are linked to the presence of a strong Masonic tradition, deeply rooted in the history of the Templars. According to historical documentation, wellknown masons of the era included poet and adventurer Giacomo Casanova, playwright Carlo Goldoni, and German composer Richard Wagner, who lived in Venice for several years, prior to his death in 1883. Nobody knows exactly what role Freemasonry played in the history of Venice because, as Casanova wrote, “The secret of Masonry is inviolable by its very nature”. Interestingly, several Venetian buildings bear traces of this parallel history, with inscriptions, symbols or legends. The façade of Ca’ Palazzo Vendramin Calergi, formerly Wagner’s Venetian residence, bears the Templars’ motto, which was

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later taken up by the masons. In Cannaregio, the most notable feature of the church of Santa Maria Maddalena is the portal featuring Hermetic, Masonic and Templar-related symbols. A must-visit stopover for fans of the genre is the church of the Knights of Malta, in the sestiere of Castello, previously the headquarters of the Venetian Templars. Lastly, according to popular belief, the fabled treasure of the Templars is thought to be buried somewhere on the Island of San Giorgio in Alga, amidst the ruins of a monastery. If you want to try your luck, remember that no one has ever found it, not even Indiana Jones. IF THE GRAND CANAL WERE A DRAGON The legends about Venice appear to be the result of the different cultural influences that have characterized its history. According to one interpretation that draws inspiration from both Catholic and eastern cultures, the Grand Canal flows through the city like a snake or a dragon, a symbol of positive and negative energy that must be to be kept under check. According to the supporters of this theory, it is not by chance that the Island of San Giorgio and the church of the same name are found at the end of the dragon’s ‘tail’. In fact, according to Christian tradition, St. George is the saint who slayed the dragon, a symbol of evil.

Church of San Barnaba

given by Kabbalist Francesco Zorzi, renowned Venetian architect Sansovino was forced to change the proportions of his blueprints for the building. Evidence of the numerous contributions made by the Islamic world can also be found in Venice. In addition to scientific contributions, like astronomy or algebra, these include contributions of a more ‘magical’ nature, associated with alchemy, which have now crossed over into folklore. In St. Mark’s Square, just a few meters from the Basilica, an icon of Christianity, you’ll find two columns originating from Acri, where both cultures meet in a mystical combination of images, including three enigmatic cryptograms, which according to some scholars are an invocation to Allah. Others suggest that the inscriptions are a secret formula which, in the event of being deciphered, would open the door to another dimension. TINTORETTO AND THE DEVIL A famous legend tells the story of the devil and the famous Venetian artist. The account describes how an old woman convinced Jacopo

CHRISTIANS, JEWS AND ARABS A cradle of culture, Venice is home to an ancient Jewish community. In Venice, the presence of rabbis dedicated to the study of Kabbalah left numerous traces on the cultural life of the city, even outside of the Jewish community. For example, the church of San Francesco della Vigna, located in the sestiere of Castello, was strongly influenced by Kabbalah numerology. According to legend, based on the guidelines 8  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

Tintoretto’s daughter Marietta to steal the hosts, the communion wafers that according to Christian theology become the body of Christ. The little girl hid them in the garden, near a water trough. Within a few days, however, the animals who came to drink at the trough began to behave strangely and knelt down. Marietta was frightened by what was happening, so she told her father everything. When Tintoretto realized that the old woman was a witch who was trying to steal his daughter’s soul, he tricked her into visiting the family home. When the witch realized that she had been trapped, she turned into a cat and fled through the wall. To ward off further evil, the artist marked the spot in the wall through which she had fled with a high-relief that is still visible on the façade of his house, in the sestiere of Cannaregio. TURNED TO STONE The word stone is associated with two Venetian legends. The first concerns a portico, the so-called ‘sotoportego dei Preti’, located in the sestiere of Castello. A fisherman named Orio caught a PHOTO © RENATA SEDMAKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Chair of St. Peter at the church of San Pietro di Castello

PHOTO © RNDMS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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San Francesco della Vigna cloister


PHOTO © JAIONE_GARCIA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

THE STRANGE INSCRIPTION ON THE FAÇADE Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, new home of the Casinò di Venezia, holds the inscription ‘Non nobis domine’ (below), a famous Latin motto of the Knights Templar.

PHOTO © BASPHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

THE CURSED HOUSE Although numerous Venetian establishments are shrouded in mystery, the name ‘Casa maledetta’ (Cursed house) is best suited to Ca' Dario, a villa located on the Grand Canal, beyond the bridge of the Accademia. Since it was first built in 1479 all its occupants have met untimely deaths, including its last owner, Italian businessman Raul Gardini. This well-known entrepreneur, who died in 1993, was also the sponsor of the first Italian yacht to participate in the America’s Cup final. His boat was called ‘Il Moro di Venezia’. Following a series of financial disasters and an involvement in a judicial inquiry, Gardini was found dead in his house, allegedly having committed suicide. The façade of Ca’ Dario bears the inscription ‘Urbis Genio Joannes Darius’, a tribute to the brilliant contractor Giovanni Dario, or possibly an anagram of a terrible threat ‘sub ruina insidiosa genero’, ‘anyone living in this house will fall into ruin’.

GHOSTS EVERYWHERE Inspired by the mists of the Lagoon, ghosts and apparitions are commonplace in Venice. For example, Palazzo Contarini Dal Zaffo is home to the ‘Casino degli Spiriti’, a cursed place where members of a sect were thought to have met. It was here in 1947 that a female smuggler named Linda Cimetta was stuffed in a trunk and thrown into the canal. Alternately, Ca’ Mocenigo is thought to be haunted by the ghost of Giordano Bruno, the philosopher accused of heresy and burnt at the stake. According to local folklore, the heretic, a frequent guest of the noble Mocenigo family, returns to the house, once a year, on the 17th of February. The Giardini della Biennale are said to be haunted by the ghost of Giuseppe Zolli, a soldier who had sworn to protect Giuseppe Garibaldi – a key player in the Unification of Italy – even after his death. When the Venetians noticed that the ghost of the faithful soldier continued to hover near the statue of the general, they took pity on him and built a second statue in his image that they placed behind the statue of Garibaldi. This act of generosity meant that the young man could finally rest in peace. Lastly on foggy nights, in largo di San Michele in Isola (Venice’s cemetery), people still claim to see the floating coffin of Giuseppina Gabriel Carmelo, a little girl who perished in a shipwreck. However, the small floating candles on her coffin alert water taxis to her presence. If you happen to see it, don’t be alarmed, the poor little girl means no harm...

PHOTO © TORIRU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

mermaid in his net. The two fell in love and the beautiful Melusina agreed to give up her tail for human legs. But Melusina’s gift for transformation ended in disaster. One day, Orio came home and found a giant snake in his house. Forgetting that the snake might be his wife, he accidentally killed her. On realizing what he’d done, he was so heartbroken that he turned to stone. A red stone heart can still be seen today under the portico of what was once their house. Legend has it that if two lovers touch the stone at the same time, their love will last forever. The second story is about three brothers, who were turned to stone for other reasons. These greedy, dishonest merchants did not hesitate to rob an old lady of her savings, and because they had tried to trick her out of her money, they were punished in this manner. The three brothers, of Islamic origin, can still be seen in ‘Campo dei Mori’, the square named after them in Cannaregio.

SHROUDED IN MYSTERY Above, one of the statues in Campo dei Mori at Cannaregio. Right, the magnificent façade of Ca’ Dario on the Grand Canal. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  9


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Seven centuries of glass art When light meets objet d’arts, masterpieces by Barovier&Toso are born. This long-established firm recently opened an exclusive luxury building in Murano to celebrate light. By Stefania Vida

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historical legacy that could only have been created, and flourished in Murano, the city of glass. This tradition, established in 1295, has evolved over time, and embodies passion and superior craftsmanship. Barovier&Toso has opened an exclusive shrine of luxury dedicated to its creations on the banks of Rio dei Vetrai. Spread over 900 square meters, the interior décor of the space was designed by Calvi Brambilla. The interior spaces of the building, located just steps from the firm’s historic headquarters, have been totally revamped. It is divided into three levels. The project was based on a contemporary reinterpretation of the typical architectural features of historical aristocratic 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

palaces including wood paneling, Venetian terrazzo floors, the layout of the rooms, and the distinctive colour that sets each room apart. The retail space and reception area on the ground floor presents a diverse selection of suspension and table lamps. On the first floor, in a series of monochrome spaces – white, gold, blue, black and red – Barovier&Toso tells its story through its most iconic collections. While on the last floor, a room with ceiling trusses exhibits the company’s largest chandeliers in classic, modern and contemporary styles. The design concept is completed by a bar area (featuring a colourful display of blown glass and chandelier components), and a spacious café, decorated in shades of pink.

>> www.barovier.com Fondamenta Manin 1/C, Murano. T: 041 739049. Off Map


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 30-31. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Rocca 1794, quality and elegance Venice’s historic Piazza San Marco acts as the perfect setting for the elegant Boutique Rocca 1794. Synonymous with high-end luxury, Rocca is renowned for its expertise, timeless heritage and consistent pursuit of innovative trends. The boutique’s sweeping window displays feature a stunning array of fine jewelry and exclusive timepieces, carefully selected from among the best Italian and international brands, with a brand new Longines corner, featuring the luxury Swiss watchmaker’s most recent collections. Distinguished by their elegant décor, chromatic nuances and state-of-the art building materials, Rocca’s boutiques represent the spirit with which the brand has always embraced modern times: class and style blend with a harmonious, contemporary design, conveying a sense of exclusivity and aesthetic sophistication. Dedication and professionalism are the core values of Rocca’s staff who welcome customers to the boutique every day. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5284732. www.rocca1794.com

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  11


[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti. com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4

FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256. (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022. (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251. (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5

VERSACE— www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

12  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4

Large pleated nappa shopper by MAX MARA with double handle, detachable shoulder strap and vintage-gold finish metal hardware.


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CAL LE R IO LE D it. Castello, 5641 (Calle traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De ND T E R near Campo San Lio). T: EL V À BA O LT IS O RB RAMO U TA2 (Rialto stop). 041 5235500. Vaporetto lineA1F Ror Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. DEL M R IO L CORTE DEL ORA POZETO Map F4 micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle Anatema DE ORO CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line Rossana Righini delights customers with her Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Giuliana Longo A Santa Sofia 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). R scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, alleria Internazionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E A milliner boasting a longstanding family Map F4 San Lazzaro E hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and NO d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro VA B ATA G I A R VA IS CO CORTE tradition dating back to the early 20th century, dei Mendicanti display cases express the owner’s philosophy: CAMPIELLO René CaovillaCORTESE CORTE NOVA STELLA Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started Santi Apostoli the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small CAMPIELLO working footwear factory, WIDMANN at his family’s CAMPIELLO CAL Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream TI Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10amLE OZ G DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI revealing his talent asA Ba sculptor’. L‘footwear I hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst 2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. S.Canciano Ospedale Based in Venice, he has collaborated with SS. Giovann C A M P I E L L O Chiesa Evangelica old-world furnishings, original panama hats T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà N C SAN CANCIANO A AN IO L L L E M fashionD Rhouses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, E S Luterana ID CUO and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The W stop). Map D4 L E E LL Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning CA only shop in town where you can find authentic CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with CAMPO DELLA C gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Francis Model ALL San Cassiano E L ARG PESCARIA N ZI A N Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A G N CA . GA www.giulianalongo.com. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. D A S A San Marco, 4813 (Calle L L IN ZA LI A SA Santa Maria A-listers who adore his creations include RI CAMPO O line 1 or 2 del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears I (Rialto stop). Map F4 has always remained faithful to the diktats of R BECARIE San Giovanni Santi GiovanniHise Paolo AC CA C A LL Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP OL and Sarah LL E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED I L just steps FO R Grisostomo CA E C Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C Macrì ED lace are truly iconic! Open MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S T pumps in Venetian EL ELL TI from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi DELLA devotes I A BO Teatro E PAOLO This shoe boutique in San Marco -Malibran its other BELLA VIENNA TA daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San CAMPO himself to his craft with pride and passion. CA LL E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a ER BE Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 dell’Ospe Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. CA CORTE SECONDA DE M L PIE San Giacomo reference point for discerning DEL MILION Venetians since the or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 CARAMPANE L San Polo,SA773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. NS LO BA RB AR ON di Rialto IA DE LE DE 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, I TO LE Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3 CA Casa di RA classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by MP O CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Polodaily 10amRIALTO theirFontego Made in Italy Marco aesthetic. Open DEL SOL NUOVO Giovanna Zanella 7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 dei Tedeschi O N For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler VA CA RA L L EF4• . DE 9956.CVaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map Sant’Aponal EL L FO DEL C .M AD NTE Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusivePonte ET A RT P IO Al Duca d'Aosta GO MB GH IN E O NG RU Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, OD SA CAL . PA lines of shoes for men and women at her N G FO LE G in 1902, L L E Originally established in Venice S CAMPO di Rialto CORTE IA Z Z AL CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE ON IZ O AN ME 1583. T: 041 522 8997. D TREVISAN ZA CAMPO APONAL DEL NI NT ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A workshop located just a stone’s throw from the boasts stores in six LP DEL VOLTO Al Duca d’Aosta now PRESTRIN TE PIO RA DE CAMPO NO X E LL A Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with itsRialto own, cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, SAN LIO C Michele De Fina CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPOpersonality because they are often SANTA MARIA unrepeatable SAL Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G enhanced by a surprise element like touches DEI PRETI The historical four-storey Venice location Aworking each stage of the process from theL IO LIAZ CA ZO LL CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Fontego E Santa LA of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open C. features over 100 top Maria fashion brands for men LARG RGcutting of the leather to the end creation. A A CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo SAN LORENZO BORGOLOCO Z Palazzo Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. ZIN CORTE SABION and Italian CAMPO carefully selected to offer its Craftsmanship style are the hallmark I DEL MONDO della Fava and women,

LI

VONI


SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

14  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI

Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the luxury department store offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof. The very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exeptional array of Italian and international fashion brands, jewelry, accessories, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. www.TFondaco.com

clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both

contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries

Featuring understated yet voluminous shapes, these band rings with white and brown diamonds from the ‘Iconica’ collection pay tribute to POMELLATO’s goldsmithing tradition.


SHOPPING clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich

WhereVenice_178x124_010119.indd 1

selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store

map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet. it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

10.12.18 13:15


ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

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home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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SHOPPING JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open MonSat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier   In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www. damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then

processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end

watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www. rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as

VENEZIA - SAN MARCO PAL A ZZO REGINA VIT TORIA WOMAN R a mo dei Fuseri 1810 Tel. +39 041 2410990 MAN R a mo dei Fuseri 1811/m Tel. +39 041 52 21332 HOME Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996

www.potpourri.it

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SHOPPING

Art galleries Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com). The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice.

In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg,

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

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a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).


SHOPPING

LA PERLA GALLERY See this page.

the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

La Perla Gallery The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique

TESSITURA BEVILACQUA See this page.

lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks. Open daily 9am-6pm. Via Galuppi, 287-376 (Burano). T: 041 730009. Vaporetto Line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

MARINA RINALDI See page 14.

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open MonFri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). The Basilica di San Marco depicted by ST ORIGAMI in a beautiful www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. kirigami-style greetings card, a technique that combines the ancient Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. art of origami with the dynamism of pop-up movement. Available at Map E5 the city’s best book and stationers’ stores. www.storigami.it

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PHOTOS © MARCO BORDONARO

DINING

A meal fit for a king In addition to boasting a fabulous canalside view, the ‘Alle Corone’ restaurant offers prime-quality locally sourced ingredients and traditional dishes re-imagined in a contemporary key. By Chiara Zaccarelli

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very tourist’s dream is to dine in an ancient aristocratic Venetian palazzo in the heart of Venice, between the Rialto and St. Mark’s Square, while enjoying typical Italian and Venetian cuisine. And it is a dream that comes true at the Alle Corone restaurant at Venice’s Ai Reali hotel, a luxury, four-star destination renowned for its sophisticated elegance and meticulous attention to detail. While sitting at one of its tables with a canalside view, you can savour the authentic flavours of the Veneto region, particularly those of Venetian tradition, expressed in dishes created using the finest local and seasonal ingredients, including the catch of the day from the Rialto market. Typical options, prepared by the restaurant’s chef Mauro Cautiello, include 20  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

Shi Drum tartare, Scallop carpaccio, fried Cod nuggets served with oranges and a lime mayonnaise, potato dumplings, Red Mullet and Chanterelles, an innovative bean soup, Monkfish with bacon and Tonka beans or homemade ‘bigoli’, accompanied by a fabulous selection of local and international wines. The bread, pasta and desserts, including mouthwatering specialties like the white chocolate Bavarese with pomegranates, grapefruit cream and cocoa crumble, or the green tea parfait with candied oranges, peaches and almonds, are all homemade. >> Alle Corone c/o Hotel Ai Reali di Venezia Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) T: 041 5232222. Map F4 www.ristoranteallecorone.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www. alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

A Beccafico Arte

Alla Madonna

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San

Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www. anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  21


MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Dopolavoro Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4

Harry’s Bar Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo). T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. (S.V.)

Glam

Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space.

Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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PHOTO © LOIS EXHIBITION GOBE / VIEW SHUTTERSTOCK.COM OF “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

A hidden treasure

H

idden in a maze of ‘calli’ and canals, just steps from Campo Manin, visitors will find an architectural gem featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a historic building of unmatched beauty that also owes some of its charm to the intrigue surrounding its namesake staircase. According to historic records, it was commissioned by Pietro Contarini towards the end of 1400; however, there is still some uncertainty about the true identity of its creator. The most credible version attributes it to Giovanni Candi, referred to in historical records as a ‘marangon’, meaning a carpenter as opposed to an architect. This would explain the architectural inconsistencies of the building, 24  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

which are quite noticeable when climbing the staircase. Mysteries aside, those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the top of this 26m ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city. Amidst its rooftops you will notice one of Venice’s trademark architectural features: the ‘altane’ (covered wooden roof terrace). The loggia on the second floor of the Scala del Bovolo leads to the Sala of Palazzo Contarini, which hosts a display of paintings, sculptures and applied objet d’art. The collection is modest but it offers the visitor a insightful glimpse into Venetian lifestyles from the 16th through 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-6pm. >> www.gioiellinascostidivenezia.it

PHOTO © DI ARCANSEL / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Iconic, beautiful and... imperfect. Without a doubt, this is the characteristic that makes Scala Contarini del Bovolo a rare gem of Venetian architecture. By Stefania Vida


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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www. chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing),

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase

M9 MUSEUM A new 20th century museum, dedicated to a century of Italian history, recently opened in Mestre, 10km from Venice. This multi-functional centre, featuring an interactive itinerary, takes visitors on an immersive journey into the changes of Italian culture. www.m9digital.it

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres

by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico. visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia

were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order:

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' RezzonicoMuseum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Doge's Palace

26  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.


SIGHTSEEING in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and welltended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions.

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  27


PHOTO © DALIU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUT OF TOWN

A weekend getaway in the Dolomites

W

hat do Venice, the Lagoon city surrounded by seawater and the peaks of the Dolomites have in common? Both destinations are UNESCO World Heritage sites but, above all, most people are unaware that some of the most dramatic and majestic mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world is located a mere two hours away from Venice. With their breathtaking landscapes, picturesque mountain villages and steep slopes that make them a paradise for winter sports, the Dolomites are one of the Venetians favourite winter holidaying destinations, but not only. The connections between Venice and the locations of Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val di Zoldo, Alleghe, Falcade and Marmolada are increasingly numerous. 28  W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2019

If your ultimate destination is Venice, and you would like to get just a taste of the mountains, several local tour operators offer an array of great tour packages (www.veneziadolomiti.com). In particular, Cortina d’Ampezzo, a famous racing town and a candidate for the 2026 Winter Olympics, combines the appeal of a ski resort dedicated to Alpine sports with a vibrant day and night life, dedicated to culture and haute cuisine. In addition to winter sports, Cortina is a paradise for shopping with markets where you can purchase local specialties and the boutiques of well-known fashion brands. Alternately, more daring visitors can indulge in a variety of open-air sports including climbing, excursions on snow mobiles or horse-drawn sleighs, romantic helicopter flights or hikes, even in summer.

PHOTO © PHOTOSHOOTER2015 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

On particularly clear days in Venice you can see the mountains of the Dolomites, an ideal destination for a weekend getaway, especially in winter. By Giulia Minero


Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

ESSENTIALS UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  29


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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA CALLE

CALLE

DOSE DEL

PE

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

FONDAMENTA

C. D EL

LE

CAR

XXIV M AGG

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

SO

GEN

ERA

CH

LE

INO

TTO

C.

ZU

SS

CAL

PA

A

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

LL

E

CA

RN

AR

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

ER

CA

LL

SA

CA

E

Teatro Verde

N

F.

GN

Japan Pavilion

CO

MAGGIORE

NI

EMB

RE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

I

N

A

N

LA

VA

EL

IO

AR

G

Le Zitelle

E

MA

DI

GR

MO

RT

VI

E

AN

CA

LL

E

MA

SO

AL

E

N

VI

TT

OR

IO

VI

VE

AL

NE

RI

VI O

RA

E

IV

NO

VE

Lido S. Nicolo' M

BR

SANT’ELENA

E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

TO

R E

RO

G

UE

N

SQ

IA

K

LO

LI

E

LL

E

DE

LL

A

FO

ND

IA

V

ER

Ò

CA

OL

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

CALLE DEL FORNO

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

C.

PARADISO

DEL

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

C.

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

FORNO

BO

DEL

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

C.

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE DE

LE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

E

LL

RIO CROCE

STRETTA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

C.

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

LA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

DE

FA R S

ET

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

C.

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

C.

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

LA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

DE

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

DE

DE

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

VENIER

CALLE

CALLE

LL

CA

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

MP

CA

O

CA

SANT'ELENA

LL

GE

Rio

N

NO

SA

I

IE

SANT'ELENA

TA

TI

EN

C

AM

BO

D

LI

N

SA

LL

BB

TE

E

ZI

TA

NT

EN

Parco delle Rimembranze

MP

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

AM

CA

O

E

U I P

LL

M

DEI

US

TERÀ

PALUDO

ND

E

CA

IN

OC

C.

CR

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

TA

RD

GRANDE

GI

N

RIO

IA

CALLE

SA

TA

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

G

PONTE

EN

E

CALLE

AM

ND

Giardini

S. Giorgio

AL

CORTE

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

VI

FIANCO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

EP

O

SAN GIACOMO

A

IST

LL

ACCADEMIA

CE

R L C

IB PE GAR

NA

RI

DE

MA

ION

Lungo

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

C.

EN

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

BB

IAN

RE

RI

CO

SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

AN

CALLE

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

I S ET

C. LOREDANA

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CROSERA

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Punta della Dogana

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

CASTELLO

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

DI

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

IA

CALLE

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

SAN

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

PISCINA

DE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

S C H I AV

DEI FORNI

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEGLI

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

DE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

C.

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

a

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

SA

MEZO

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

LARGA

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

CALLE

BEMBO

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

Museo Correr

Salute

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

REMER

CALLE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

AI

DEI

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

RI

Palazzo Genovese

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO SAN

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

DE

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

SABION

C.

C.

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

DOLERA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

RUGA

CALLE

DIETRO

VOLTI

GALIZZI

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

CALLE

STURION

DEL

ALLO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SANTO

DEL

CATERINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

SANTA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

FABBRICHE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

LE

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DEL

San Felice

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

TRAPOLIN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

CA'

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

FONDAMENTA

O

DE

Santa Fosca

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

ER

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

IS

NA

DEI

C.

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

M

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

TA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

SAN

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

MORETTI

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4

Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4

Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC E CITY GUIDE NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)

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