Where Venice n 2 October 2016

Page 1

OCTOBER 2016 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

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Venice October 2016 the guide 18 SHOPPING

BAGARON

Stylish news from American giant Michael Kors

C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

12

32 DINING

FOCUS

Do Forni: traditional Venetian fare for a gourmet culinary experience 42 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

The heart of Venice and its most symolic landmark, St. Mark’s is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions…

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

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ND

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ONA

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CALLE

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MAN

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DEL

DE

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Casa di Marco Polo

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San Salvador

DEL

TERÀ

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Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LE

O

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CORTE

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DEL

RNIN PATE

MAND

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SAN SALVADOR

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CAL

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le

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CAL

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LE

CAN

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E CALL

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E

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RIO

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ne

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

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CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin

CALLE DEL BASTION

DEL FORNO

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

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ETIE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

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VE

RINA

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DEL CAF

Canal Grande

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CALL

A

STU

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oS

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CALL

MAN

CAL

CALLE

E AI GESUA TI

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AVV

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DA

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TER

LE

NANI

GO

PRI

CAL LE

DE L

Santo Stefano

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E

RA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

ENT A

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

San Beneto San Luca

SI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

NT'A

RAVA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia C.SA

ST

CAL

NO

DEL

Palazzo Grimani

SAN

BOT EGH E

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CATE

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RIO

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DAM

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de ran

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San Vidal

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FON

CAL

ETA

RUGH

CAL

LE

TA

FON

GO RTE OPO SOT

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

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C.

cin

EN

CAL

ANI GRIM

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RS

E LL CA

TO

ET

CH

ON

TR

L

DE

VA

NO

LA

AM

LE CAL

ISO

ND

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

E CALL

FOND

DE

Palazzo Loredan

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

STU A

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

AMP ANE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

CALLE

Zattere

PON

CAMPIELLO

FO

ENTA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

ZI

DEI LAVRANE

CAR

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CRO SER A

DAM

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUT I

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

E UEL SAM

Accademia

San Trovaso

Giudecca Hilton

FISOLA

LARGA

LA

GALIZ

CALLE

DEL

DEI

LE

ZATTER

CHIESA

N

C.

E DE CALL

MENTA

DELLA

S.

S. Samuele

FONDA

CALLE

MI

A

DA IZA SAL

FON

SAN

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SESTIERE

CA’

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

IN

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

IER

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

LE

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele OZZE CARR

OL

ZEL

CAL LE RAMO

AP

DON

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DE

al G

FAL

LINI

RA

S.Silvestro

Can

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

ENTA

CA’

CARAMPANE À

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

A

IA

LA

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

LE

DAM

TER

LE CAL

CAL

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

RIO

DE

BOT A

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

San Tomà

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

INI

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

TR

DE

LON

LA

FORNO

TE

ND

CAMPO APONAL

CAMPO DEI FRARI

O

TA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

DEL

PON

' VE

ERA

E AL

DE

CALLE

TER

IC

EN

DON SAN PER

Ca' Rezzonico

I

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

ZAT

L’AG NEL LA

E DOL

SANT

ER

AM

San Cassiano CAL LE

CALL

OGNI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

ER

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

NTA

LET

CHI TODES

AME

SCA

C. DEI

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C.

LE SAMUE

FOND

IS

ND

DE

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

RIN PEST

FOD

DEL

SERA

DE OGNISAN

ZI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

DEI

SAN POLO

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

TI

S. Basilio

C.

M

FO

CAL LE

TIOZ

A S. PISCIN

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

ENTA

NT AR

rto

San Felice

LE

DE INC INI

E CRO

O

TA

E DEL CALL

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

EN

CAL

E ZANE

DEI PUTI

IAN

FONDAM

CO

C.

SER

AM

CA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

O

E DE

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

CRO

ND

Santa Fosca

CA’BCAL ONVLE

DO

DORSODURO

IO

OR

CALL

AST BESAG

NT

BOL

CALLE

SEB DA SAN

TE

HETT

CALL

FOMO

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

DORSODURO

LE

TA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TRAG

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

LE PAZIENZ

A ENT SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

L

E DEL

i

min

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DE

CALL

del

DAM

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CAL

EN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

nde Canal Gra

I

Rio

OCHE

TTO

IAT

TA

ll'O

AM

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

SAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

I

NA

NA

CAMPO SAN STIN

ORE

PRET

ALE

D

E TRON

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

E DEI

R

FON CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

LE

ete

E C A

FO

DD

VECCHIO

gh

N

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

C.

GHE

BR

C.

MEZ

TRA

TA

E

DE

DEL

NI

EN

TERÀ

SAN

CAL

ne

TALO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE

DIA

AM

RIO

San Rocco

Mu

RIO TERA’

AR

ND

LE

LE

GU

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

EN

a de

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

LE

CALL

A

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

DON

CAL

E

E

E RENIE

DEL

AM

nn

VA

le

PAN

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

CA

Angelo Raffaele

O

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

LAR

LAC

IA

SSA

RIELO

LE

DE LA VIDA

OCH

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALL

ND

do

NO

de

NUOVO

RO

FO

CAL

LA

San Pantalon

tini

RIO

RAMO

FON

N

LA

La Maddalena

CAL

MENTA

FO

Ma

DA

DE

LA

CIM ESI

A SAN

Rio dei Tolen

I

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LE

LA TT

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

C.VE

LA

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

TER

SA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

CALLE

NTA

RE

NIC SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

DE

Rio

N

MADONA

SAL

O

USE

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

LE

DE

DAR O

N

CALL

FONDA

O

FO

R

L’ISOLA

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

RAM

CIM

O

BASEG

a

DE LA

OTT

en

icordi

RAMO

gaz

CALLE

CALLE CONTARINA

ME

TA DE

TA

MATTA DI CA’

TA

TI

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

I

DA

AMEN

AMEN

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

OT

EN

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Ma

DE

TOR

E

RZ

AM

TERA’

TIN

ENT A MIN

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

I

Rio

Del

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

I

ZO

CAM

LE CAL

ESI

DAM

IO

LE

CH

CAL

PAZ

O

Miser

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

A

RAG

FOND

FOND

DE L’OGIO

BAR

TA

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAL

AS

LUN

RAM

Rio

BIAS

DI

I

NE

LA

della

RIO

DEL REMER

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

BAR

EO

CERER

NA

ND

L

DEI

SIM

DE

Rio

San Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

GA

N

DEI

FON

MENTA

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

CA

E

LE

FONDA

ERI CALLE

RT

CALL

CAMPIELLO

LAR

SA

PO

DEI AMAI

IA

O

San Leonardo

C.

A OV

CO

CAL

MADON

LA

FO

AM

URATI

LA

TA PROC

CAZZIO

DE

A RIVA

LIS

NU

RG

MENTA

AMEN

A CALLE

ENT

VE

CAM

FONDA

AMEN

TA RIZZI

DAM

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

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A panoramic view from Palazzo Ducale. Photo © svida_WhereItalia

This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions, traditional events and music.

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OUT OF TOWN: NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS

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Venture into a world of nature, art and wellness at several of the Veneto region’s most captivating destinations

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Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.

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ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Contents

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Venice

Don’t miss the exclusive performances at Ca’ Sagredo, celebrating Shakespeare’s 400th anniversary

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Venice ®

WELCOME TO VENICE

M A G A Z I N E

www.where-venice.com WHERE ITALIA SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici,

Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2016 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli ADMINISTRATION Katia

Greto

VENICE ADVISOR Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Moreno Gallo, Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS

Welcome to Venice! We at Where® Venice would like share some tips with you to ensure that you make the most of your visit while respecting the city and its inhabitants. Venice is a pedestrian city (when you’re not travelling on water). Unfortunately, over the past few years, visitors have often failed to respect its bridges and monuments, either by defiling them with graffiti or attaching love locks to them, a craze that involves couples writing their names on a padlock, swearing eternal love and throwing the keys into the canal. Apart from being illegal, such acts, including sitting on bridges while eating or obstructing people’s passage, are an offence to the city. In St. Mark’s Square, it is now forbidden to sit or recline under the porticos and on the steps along the Procuratie Nuove and the Ala Napoleonica, the buildings that ring the city’s iconic St. Mark’s Square. And don’t even think of stopping alongside the Doge’s Palace to nibble on a panino, a gelato or another snack. Although it may sound ludicrous, you can’t swim in Venice’s canals. Those of you who are in the mood for a swim should head to the Lido, where you can spend a fashionable day at a real beach! Finally, those littering the ‘calli’ or canals with cigarette butts or rubbish are being disrespectful to the beauty of the city itself. Remember to hang on to your litter until you find a bin in which to put it! We are certain that these rules don’t apply to any of our Where® Venice readers who are currently visiting this beautiful city, and the only one that can truly be described as unique. This is simply an invitation to take action by alerting the authorities, should you witness anyone breaking these simple rules of good taste and civil behaviour. Venice deserves to be preserved in all of its original glory!

WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

Andrea Jarach, Publisher

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

IV Manning

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Published in association with

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Morris Visitor Publications

Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

www.mcarthurglen.it/noventadipiave

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

PHOTO © DANIMISRA

Top in town

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics andgold, marble and numerous other treasures.  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. 

6  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit.  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet.  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was


MORE AT PAGE 43 called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures.  PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto.  Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

Ponte dei Sospiri

EDITOR'S TIPS

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’.

PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps.

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

DOUGLAS KIRKLAND, RITRATTO DI GABRIELLE CHANEL (1962), COLLEZIONE DOUGLAS KIRKLAND, LOS ANGELES, © DOUGLAS KIRKLAND

OCTOBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating art, history and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

8  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016


SATURDAY-SUNDAY

22-23

CHANEL, A TIME-DEFYING LEGEND

CULTURE CHANEL. The woman who reads Ca’ Pesaro – Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, Santa Croce 2076 (San Stae) www.culture-chanel.com

PABLO PICASSO, BUSTO DI GIOVANE DONNA (1958), © RMN-GRAND PALAIS (MUSÉE PICASSO DE PARIS), MARTINE BECK-COPPOLA / SUCCESION PICASSO. PABLO PICASSO, DONNA SDRAIATA CHE LEGGE (1952), PRIVATE COLLECTION, © SUCCESSION PICASSO

CULTURE CHANEL is defined as “a collection of exhibitions”, because each individual event is part of the same project. Thanks to the choice of a different theme, each new show (held, each time, in a different city) sheds new light on what forged the designer’s singular style and identity. This weekend is the perfect time to discover the seventh chapter of this showcase. The Venetian exhibition evokes Gabrielle Chanel’s creative world through her relationship with books and literature. From classic Greek authors to modern poets, her abundant library reveals the works that left an impression on her life and shaped the personality of this couturier who was also an avid reader. Dedications, archives, photographs, paintings are drawings are mixed with her creations, revealing an aesthetic vocabulary and an intimate portrait of a designer who knew how to transform her life into a legend. Until 8 January 2017.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES SATURDAY

8

THE PHOENIX RISES FROM ITS ASHES TUESDAY

25

VENINI AND THE MAGIC OF GLASS

▲ Since museums are often closed on Tuesdays, today is a good opportunity to see the great collection of 300 works that explore the creative force of Paolo Venini as well as other artists who collaborated with him after the Second World War, including Tyra Lundgren, Gio Ponti, Riccardo Licata, Ken Scott, Massimo Vignelli and Tobia Scarpa. A stunning showcase of Italian masterpieces presented in a unique exhibition space: the former boarding school on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. The exhibition is part of the cultural project “Le Stanze del Vetro” (an initiative organized by Fondazione Giorgio Cini and Pentagram Stiftung).

Le Stanze del Vetro. Paolo Venini e la sua fornace Fondazione Giorgio Cini, island of San Giorgio Maggiore www.lestanzedelvetro.org - www.cini.it

MONDAY

10

THE QUEEN OF ARCHITECTURE

► Instead of visiting the 2016 Venice Architectural Biennale which is closed on Mondays, head to Palazzo Franchetti, on the Grand Canal, to see the first large retrospective organized by the Berengo Foundation in celebration of Zaha Hadid’s career in architecture and design. The exhibition showcases paintings, drawings and models, conveying her architectural projects in a variety of media, including photography and film, exploring the pioneering research and investigation that defines the late architect’s work. Until 27 November.

Zaha Hadid exhibition at the Palazzo Franchetti Palazzo Franchetti, San Marco 2847 (Campo Santo Stefano) www.fondazioneberengo.org 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

In 2004, following the reconstruction of the Teatro La Fenice which had burned down in 1996, Robert Carsen’s new production of La Traviata was chosen to inaugurate the opera season. Despite its somewhat unusual contemporary setting, the opera was a huge success. In fact, since then, at least ten performances of the production have been staged on a yearly basis. The last production of the 2016 cycle will be staged on Saturday 8 October. An absolute must-see! (At 7pm, with subtitles in Italian and English). Verdi, la Traviata Teatro La Fenice, San Marco 1965 (Campo San Fantin) www.teatrolafenice.it


OCTOBER FRIDAY- SUNDAY

14-16

SAN MARCO BY NIGHT

◄ Thanks to the late-night opening of the museum until 11pm, this weekend is your last chance to admire the countless treasures at Palazzo Ducale (see photo) ‘by moonlight’ (last entry at 10pm). During evening openings you can book guided tours for adults and activities for families, available in several languages including Italian, English, French and German.

Musei al chiaro di luna Palazzo Ducale, San Marco 1 (piazza San Marco). www.visitmuve.it

SATURDAY

29

THE EXPERIMENTAL POWER OF ART

▼Today, like every Saturday at 3pm, Palazzo Grassi is offering free guided tours of the first retrospective in Italy dedicated to ‘Sigmark Polke’. Marking the 10th anniversary of the reopening of Palazzo Grassi, this exhibition celebrates the artist who won a Golden Lion at the 42nd Venice Biennale (German Pavilion). The 90 works on display explore Polke’s eclectic production from the 1960s to the present time, a mixture of experimentation and political anxiety. Booking not required.

Sigmar Polke. Palazzo Grassi. San Marco, 3231 (Campo San Samuele). www.palazzograssi.it - www.palazzograssi.it

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE JANUARY/FEBRUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

APRIL Festa di San Marco / Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day.

MAY Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga > A 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public.

JUNE/JULY Biennale of Art > An international exhibition of Contemporary Art (next edition: 2017) Biennale of Dance > (17-27 June 2016) An international dance festival Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello.

JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (third Sunday of the month) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre 2016 (26 July-28 August 2016)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (31 August-10 September 2016) Now in its 73rd consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. Biennale of Architecture (28 May-27 November 2016) An International exhibition of Architecture, held at the Giardini della Biennale and Arsenale venues.

SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta > first Sunday in September One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.

NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day.

DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

New life for the “Fontego” Following an in-depth makeover, the ancient Fondaco (Fontego in Venetian dialect), the iconic building once home to a community of German merchants (13th century), is set to become Venice’s most important ‘luxury department store’. BY ELENA BINDA

T

he Fondaco dei Tedeschi has been a part of the history of Venice for as many as eight centuries. First constructed in 1228 and then rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1508, it was converted into a Post Office in 1808, a purpose that it served for almost one century. A mute witness of the Venetian mercantile era, as its name suggests, in medieval times the building was used as a trading post for German merchants who stocked goods arriving from Nuremburg and Augsburg here. Located at the foot of the famous Rialto Bridge, the Fondaco dei Tedeschi is one of Venice’s largest and most recognizable buildings due, among other things to its architecture which sets it apart from most of the other buildings overlooking the Grand Canal. The Fondaco is a building based on a square plan. Crenellated at the top like an old castle, it has four levels facing onto a central courtyard (now covered by a steel and glass structure) housing a medieval well. On the ground floor, five large arches enclose a portico where goods were once unloaded from the Grand Canal while, on the upper floors, a rows of single or double mullioned windows decorate the façade. Over the centuries, several of Venice’s greatest artists, from Giorgione to Titian, worked on embellishing its façade and interiors. Considered a Venetian landmark, it is located in one of the city’s most central and vibrant areas just steps from the Rialto Bridge. Over the centuries, the ‘palazzo’ has been 12  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

Above, a Venetian landscape of the Grand Canal with the Rialto Bridge in the background, painted between 1730 and 1750 by Giovanni Antonio Canal, known as ‘il Canaletto’ (Prado Museum, Madrid). The large building on the left is the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, recently restored to host the prestigious T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store which opened on 1 October (see photo).


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PHOTO BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP.JPG


WHERE NOW | FOCUS THE VIEW FROM ABOVE Suspended above the hustle and bustle of the historic city, the Fondaco’s rooftop terrace boasts one of the only places in Venice where the public is able to take in a panoramic view of the city. They can gaze to their heart’s content at the unbeatable sight of campaniles and churches that line the horizon, watch the world go by across the Rialto Bridge and take in the unique glow of the setting sun as it illuminates the city’s distinctive tiled roofs. Indeed, one can see far across the Venetian Lagoon even to the peaks of the nearby Italian Alps.

PHOTO © AJ-WHEREITALIA

immortalized in numerous masterpieces of art history including Canaletto’s much loved aerial view of the building, but not only. This Venetian ‘palazzo’ is so iconic that it was even mentioned in an 007 movie. In the 2006 episode of Casino Royale, a ‘palazzo’ (obviously not a real one), located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, closely resembling the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, collapsed in on itself, during an adrenalin-filled scene. Luckily, things went better for the real ‘Fontego’. Not only was it not razed to the ground but, instead, reconceived and redesigned as ‘T Fondaco dei Tedeschi’, the most important Venetian luxury department store. AN IMPRESSIVE RESTORATION When, in 2009, the owners of the property (the famous Benetton Group) decided to restore the Fondaco to convert it into a department store and public space, they commissioned Dutch architecture firm OMAOffice for Metropolitan Architecture (led by Rem Koolhaas), one of the most famous architectural firms in the world, to do the job. OMA’s most successful recently completed projects include the Waterfront City in Dubai, the House of Music in Porto, the Central Library in Seattle, the Marina Abramovic Institute in Hudson (USA) and the famous Fondazione Prada building in Milan. OMA’s renovation scheme was based on a finite number of strategic interventions and vertical distribution devices that support the 14  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

new program while defining a sequence of public spaces and circulation routes. Each intervention was conceived, as the architect explained, “as an excavation through the existing mass, liberating new perspectives and unveiling the real substance of the building to its visitors, as an accumulation of authenticities liberating new perspectives and unveiling the real substance of the building to its visitors.” Among other things, the project opens the courtyard piazza to pedestrians, while maintaining its historical role as a covered urban ‘campo’ (square). A large wooden terrace, with spectacular views over the city, was added so that the rooftop and courtyard below would become public venues, open to the city and accessible at all times. Two new entrances to the building were created from the Campo San Bartolomeo and the Rialto, while existing entrances into the courtyard, used by locals as a shortcut, have been retained. Not only were crucial historic elements left untouched, but – where the architects had to or wanted to innovate – they did so by resurrecting the historical heart of the place: for example, the walls of the galleries will once again host frescoes that reappear in contemporary form. “We preserved everything that we were able to preserve,” explained the architects. The arches on the ground floor, whose pieces were numbered, removed, brushed and replaced one by one. The marvelous decorated wood ceilings. The staircase in

Istrian stone. The hand-sponged plasterwork. The Venetian Terrazzo floors that cover most of the surface. The old letter box. All past relics have been preserved and donated to the public.” In short, a restoration project that is both ambitious and respectful and one that was greeted with joy by the Venetians who will acquire a landmark department store that will become a shared civic facility. However, the restoration project aims to take things even one step further by transforming the property into another reason to visit Venice. A NEW LUXURY SHOPPING DESTINATION With its 28 million visitors a year, its ranking as the tenth destination in the world in terms of number of visitors, and its ancient mercantile vocation, it seemed almost incredible that Venice did not have a department store dedicated to the purchase of luxury goods. As from 1 October all of this will change thanks to a project that tends to outclass any other ‘rival’ in the world. Extending over a surface area of 7,000 square metres, the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store will provide the public with an array of the most coveted Italian and international brands, in the categories of fashion and accessories, watches and jewelry, wines and spirits, and beauty and fragrances, alongside a carefully curated selection of locally handcrafted artisan products and premium food. Managed by


PHOTO BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP

DFS (Duty Free Shop) and partly controlled by luxury group LVMH, the department store will not only be used as a public space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote and preserve authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium will be home to AMO, an elegant Venetian café/restaurant developed by the world-famous interior designer Philippe Starck in partnership with Italy’s most revered culinary family, Massimiliano (the youngest chef in the world to have received three Michelin stars) and Raffaele Alajmo. The menu will feature simple, modern twists on classic Italian cuisine. With its red escalator, sixty boutiques, 450 windows, two thousand light fittings and an unforgettable panoramic terrace, the Fondaco is set to become a highly sought-after destination. Moreover, in partnership with Premier Tax Free, the department store will also offer an innovative simplified instant tax refund system at the cash desk, the first of its kind in Europe.

T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi Rialto Bridge, Venice T: +39 041 3142000 www.TFondaco.com Open daily 9.30am-7.30pm (October-March) and 9.30am-9.30pm (April-September)

A VENUE FOR ARTS AND CULTURE

connections between the East and West that were made through relationships forged in Venice. It is also in Venice that In partnership with local artists and cultural Plessi was first inspired to become an artist institutions, a series of exhibitions and and it is where he conceived over his life a wide range of initiatives such as talks, the pieces that would define his oeuvre. concerts and screenings will be held within Using sixty flat screens placed along the the new “Event Pavilion” for the general golden brass walls that edge the event public. The inaugural exhibit on the 4th space, the artist shows repeated images of floor of the building, which will run from antique mosaic fragments that have been the store’s opening in October through submerged in water. As the water moves mid-January 2017, presents a visceral above and around the mosaic fragments, exhibition by one of Italy’s most highly the images undulate and ripple, thereby regarded artists. Called Under Water, transforming the fixed nature of the mosaic the site-specific project was created by into something unexpectedly fluid and Fabrizio Plessi, who looked at the historical dynamic.

A EVENT PAVILION IMAGE BY ALESSANDRA CHEMOLLO, ALL RIGHTS GIVEN TO DFS

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WHERE NOW | ITINERARY

The island of Burano In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine

Zilli

POCKET BURANO You can also take the houses of Burano home as a souvenir. On the island you can find a number of artisans specializing in the reproduction of brightly coloured, miniature districts. However, the noblest craft of all is the lace-making. The lace made here is truly an example of an ancient art!

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A little less famous than its twin, Murano - the island of glass, with which it is often confused, due to the similar names (only the first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano famous. With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses make it is one of the most picturesque places on earth. THE HOUSES Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea of arriving on Burano and realizing that you’ve forgotten your camera could be a catastrophe. The island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the

rainbow, are truly spectacular! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of liqueur consumed to keep them warm…), devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the only thing worth admiring.


The island is the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. For example, though it can take up to five months to make a rectangular tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace makers are now equipped to deliver your item of choice to anywhere in the world. (Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. The risk that the lace is not handmade and not even Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187). BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped), are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many, of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Apetit! HOW TO REACH BURANO One Vaporetto line runs from Venice to Burano: the number 12. The journey lasts for approximately one hour after embarking at the Fondamente Nove stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes past and 20 minutes to the hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend another alternative: you can take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s a good opportunity to take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the works by MOSE, the huge hydraulic engineering project completed to protect the Lagoon. w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   17


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Stylish news American giant Michael Kors has finally opened the doors to his new space in Venice: an oasis of glamour and style for ‘fashion addicts’. By Stefania Vida

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ocated just steps from St. Marks’s Square in Campo San Moisè, the new Venetian store of renowned designer Michael Kors is a symphony of elegance, simplicity and style. The 1,377-square-foot store will carry footwear and accessories from MICHAEL Michael Kors, including handbags and small leather goods. The store will also carry watches, jewelry, and eyewear to accessorize all outfits! The brand’s in-house team designed the store environment to reflect the label’s sophisticated, jet-set aesthetic: a luxurious, modern ambience, along with a clean, neutral palette, combine to create a unique and inviting customer experience.

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DISCOVER THE NEW COLLECTIONS Step into the store to update your wardrobe with the Fall-Winter 2016 collections where highlights include accessories such as the MICHAEL Michael Kors bags, key players in Michael’s new campaign entitled ‘The Walk: Brooklyn Crossbody’ inspired by the iconic style of Warhol-era factory girls; “Brooklyn Saddlebag” from the famed free spirit of Penny Lane; “Brooklyn Feed Bag” designed to mimic an equestrian staple that held grain for horses and “Isadore Satchel” (see photo) dreamed up as a polished answer to the season’s music festival sensibility. But the good news doesn’t end here! From October onwards all products will be on sale online at www. michaelkors.com.

>> Michael Kors San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè) T: 041 5224500 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) www.michaelkors.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Atelier Segalin by Daniela Ghezzo Premium-quality footwear, featuring unusual shapes, original colours and soft, shiny leathers. Daniela trained at the school of master craftsman Rolando Segalin, whose atelier she later took over. Daniela’s work has been featured in several of the world’s most prestigious publications. An exclusive, must-visit store. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 3.30pm-7pm. www. danielaghezzo.it. San Marco, 4365 (Calle dei Fuseri). T: 041 5222115. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Balducci Since 1974, Franco Balducci has crafted handmade bags, shoes, belts and other items, using naturally tanned Tuscan leather. The owner’s country-chic taste mirrors his aesthetic to perfection! Open 9am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.balducci-borse.com Cannaregio, 1593 (Rio Terà San Leonardo). T: 041 5246233. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marcuola stop). Map D2

Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, buttersoft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3

Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags

Contemporary shopping experience Spread over four floors surrounding an inner courtyard hosting Felice Limosani’s exquisite light installation, luxury department store Coin Excelsior in Cannaregio is located just steps from the Rialto Bridge. The store hosts a fabulous a selection of both Italian and International men and women’s fashion brands, furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and high-end perfumes and fragrances (ground floor). Map F3 Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Gabriele Gmeiner Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting an impressive resume. The designer studied at several of the world’s most prestigious design schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. By appointment w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   19


[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.

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Since 1 October, the world’s most coveted brands have a new home that gathers them all under one roof: T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian department store, located just steps from the Rialto Bridge.

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open MonSat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). Map F5 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4

FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5 GIORGIO ARMANI NEW OPENING www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Each and every BORSALINO felt hat adds a touch of urban chic to your outfit.

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FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

The BOTTEGA VENETA backpack in the line’s signature 'intrecciato' weave is an easy-to-wear, sophisticated accessory for him.


TOD'S light, semi-glossy brushed leather lace-up is a must of elegance and timeless style.

T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm).

LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MICHAEL KORS NEW OPENING www.michaelkors.com. San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

VERSACE—www.versace.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am9pm).

Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 (open 6.30am-9pm). TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo).

Featuring sharp-cut details and contrasting profiles, this total look by ATELIER VERSACE adds a touch of mysterious, sensual allure to the woman wearing it. w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   21


SHOPPING Unique in Venice

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Located in the heart of Murano, it offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custom-made items to suit individual styles and requirements. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

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only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3

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La Parigina

An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also Giovanna Zanella Chiesa di San Michelestocks in Isola a wide selection of international brands For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. of shoes for men and women at her workshop La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10amEach pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable 7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto personality and Giovanna refers to them as line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily “magical, haute couture creations” because they 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. are often enhanced by a surprise element like M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. (Lido stop). Off Map All handcrafted and made-to-measure! Open Macrì Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Map F4 Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic Giuliana Longo men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their A milliner boasting a longstanding family Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. tradition dating back to the early 20th century, San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open Chiesa dei Gesuiti the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat041 522 8997. cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world Mazzon Le Borse furnishings, original panama hats and handmade Not just a store, but an artisanal workshop, where headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town bags, suitcases and belts are handmade to order, where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. even for the next day. Painstaking attention to Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. detail and surprisingly affordable prices are com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 its distinctive characteristics. Open Mon-Sat 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). San Lazzaro 9.30-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Polo, 2807 Map F4 dei Mendicanti

(Campiello San Tomà). T: 041 5203421. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D3

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

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Shoes for the coolest of the cool: whatever the latest fad - pointy or square - it's here. Not only shoes, but also bags and accessories (mainly for women) in a shop that does not have a website but is extremely active on Facebook. Open Mon-Sat. 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Cannaregio, 2367 (Rio Terà della Maddalena, Strada Nova). T: 041 715261. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marcuola stop). Map D2

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. PASSION TIP


SHOPPING Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3

René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

della Giudecca, 800Q. T: 041 8391711. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Galleria Ravagnan Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and international renown, exports art works throughout the world and participates at prominent international and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. www. ravagnangallery.com. Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Melori & Rosenberg Gallery Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks of other well-known Italian and international artists. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4

Michele Novello Gallery Its studio and the owner’s in-depth knowledge of contemporary art are the hallmark features of this gallery. Assisted by his daughter, well-known

Burano lace

SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5

ART GALLERIES Bugno Art Gallery Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the gallery has cooperated with well-known artists on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, as well as other international contemporary painters. Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Contini Galleria d’Arte Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery is a reference point for dealers and collectors specializing in contemporary art works and sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm7.30pm. www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5

Galleria Michela Rizzo A small exhibition space located just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Established in 2004, this relatively recent gallery has become a reference point on the contemporary art scene for both international and emerging artists. Open Tues-Sat 11am-6pm. www.galleriamichelarizzo.net. Isola

According to an age-old tradition, the women of Burano honed their skills with a needle and thread through necessity while repairing the nets of their fishermen husbands, fathers and brothers. It was only later, during long winter afternoons, that they began to develop the craft of lacemaking, creating tablecloths, bedspreads and bridal veils, gradually refining the technique of stitches “made in the air” with no background support, a characteristic that continues to define the lacework of Burano today. This traditional art which, most likely, dates back to the Middle Ages, reached a turning point with the invention of printing when hundreds of patterns of lace designs that could be copied were published. Throughout the Renaissance, the production of lace became an

important economic resource for the island of Burano. During the sixteenth century, the forward-thinking Doge’s wife Morosini (a sort of First Lady of Venice) gave new impetus to lace-making so that lace could be found in the trousseaus of all the noble families of that period. Burano still boasts dozens of shops where you can find exquisite, lace-trimmed items in cotton, linen or silk. Although the predominant colour is white, they can also often be found in gold or silver. Bear in mind that similar to glass-blown objects, lace-making is a difficult and time-consuming job. Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. For example, an authentic tablecloth could cost several thousand euros.

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SHOPPING

Artistic glass in Murano

Venetian gallerist, Michele Novello is always in search of innovative pieces. Among others, he boasts an important partnership with prominent art dealer Jack Shiman Kusama in New York. Open Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-6pm. San Marco, 2016/A. T: 041 5285599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

The art of making glass by solidifying silica to obtain a transparent material that is at once hard yet delicate, dates back to a distant past (the history of glassmaking can be traced back to 3500 B.C. in Mesopotamia). Several archeological excavations testify to the fact that glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, in the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was one small setback to glassmaking: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, by law, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendour during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including

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big-names of the likes of Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (Barovier&Toso, the sixth oldest family-run company in the world, is still operative today) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (Venini, which has become an internationally renowned brand, has collaborated with designers of the likes of Giò Ponti, Mimmo Rotella, Gaetano Pesce, Gae Aulenti, Ettore Sottsass, Matteo Thun, Fabio Novembre or Flo Perkins). While strolling through the streets of Murano, you will be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, you need to bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world. Ask your concierge.

Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi

NEW OPENING The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on


SHOPPING

Heart Silhouette charms in rose gold and in rose gold with black diamonds, by DODO. the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am-7.30pm (October-March) and 9.30am9.30pm (April-September). www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

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FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for

Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Palmanova Outlet Village

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet. it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am6pm.

Cartier

Chopard Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani

NEW OPENING A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

IWC Schaffausen Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Jaeger-LeCoultre

TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany’s new Venetian boutique, with its sophisticated interiors and spectacular jewelry, is slated to become one of the city’s key destinations for luxury shopping.

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

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SHOPPING

Top antiques

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition.

Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

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Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antichità San Samuele

Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T:

Alessandro Zoppi


SHOPPING

041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (San Tomà stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Ca' Nova

Franco Dell'Orto

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

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IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE BY STEFANO TRAINE

Cannaregio

Santa Croce

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

AN ANCIENT VOCATION Venice’s natural ability for trade dates way back in time. Bearing in mind that each day, whatever the season, the city’s treasures attract thousands of visitors from all over the world, it’s no surprise that every corner of Venice is packed with shops and ‘botteghe’ selling all kinds of merchandise. So, we suggest that you try to be a little selective when shopping. Make sure that you choose a shop that really expresses the soul of the city. Here are a few tips for quality shopping.

Giudecca

PELLICCERIA CABERLOTTO Though the Caberlotto family has been dealing in fur for almost a century, its desire to innovate and continually improve its techniques through research is a strength of which its owners are proud. www.caberfurs.com San Marco, 5114. T: 041 5229242.

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FRANCIS MODEL Bags and exclusive items, created using select, colourful materials. Ruggero De Zorzi has dedicated himself with passion to the production of handbags and briefcases since 1965.

www.francismodel.it San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889.


JADE MARTINE The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be found at this small yet charming boutique that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ warmth and French charm. Sophisticated underwear and accessories, either for personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment of beautiful items, and courteous assistants are always on-hand to offer useful advice. A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995. San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892.

ANATEMA Scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags and hand-sewn silk ties. Rossana Righini has infused this boutique with her inimitable concept of style, colour and elegance. www.anatema.it San Polo, 2603 (Frari district). T: 041 5242221 or 340 1258565.

I MUSCHIERI This is one of the oldest and best-stocked perfumeries in Venice. Originating from the passion of Rosa and Antonietta Resta, it is not just a perfume shop but also a place dedicated to research, the art of perfumemaking and its history. San Marco, 1177 (Frezzeria). T: 041 522 8940.

Ottica Mantovani

dal 1871

OTTICA MANTOVANI

www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 T: 02 xxxxx More info: www.wheremilan.com

Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s. www.otticamantovani.it San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   29


SHOPPING Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

The Rialto Market

Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).

... and more There is no lack of specialty shops in the Rialto area. We recommend three of them; authentic, unmissable gems. The first can be found at the foot of the Rialto Bridge: Piedàterre (San Polo 60) is a real boutique selling Venetian 'furlane', exquisite, handcrafted slippers crafted using age-old techniques. Next, in Calle Do Mori, you’ll find Venice’s most ancient ‘bacaro’ (built in 1462): Osteria Do Mori (San Polo 429), one of Casanova’s favourite haunts. Finally, by heading towards Campo San Silvestro, in Rio Terrà di San Silvestro, you will find Gems of Venice (San Polo 1044), a jewelry store and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into wearable works of art.

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Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultrafeminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tag Heuer Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker to master luxury sports chronographs with an unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Tiffany & Co.

Gems of Venice

NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5


SHOPPING

JAEGER-LECOULTRE See page 25.

PASSION SHOPPING Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on the history of Venetian masks and traditional maskmaking techniques. PASSION TIP Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172

PIEDÀTERRE See page 22.

and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3

IWC SCHAFFAUSEN See page 25.

Seno Luciano L’Argentiere This exquisite 'silverware boutique' specializes in jewels, clocks and silver objet d’art. A family-run business, it is renowned for its expertise and attentive, courteous staff. Open Mon 4pm-7.15pm; Tues-Sat 10am-12.30pm/4pm-19.15pm. San Marco, 5215. T: 041 5205292. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venezia, le stampe Located in front of the Goldoni Theatre, this shop stocks a wide selection of antique prints, frames, and Venetian antiques and handicrafts. The jewel-in-the crown of this small, refined showroom are its decorative prints. www.venezialestampe. it. San Marco, 4606/B (Calle Teatro Goldoni della Commedia). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Venini

AUDEMARS PIGUET St. Mark ‘s square acts as the perfect backdrop to the new boutique of the famous ‘Le Brassus’ brand, a reference point of aesthetic integrity, architectural design, innovation and craftsmanship.

An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

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DINING

Do Forni, authentic flavours and real Venetian hospitality Eligio Paties, owner of the historic Do Forni restaurant, talks to us about Venice’s authentic culinary tradition, for a real gourmet experience. By Stefania Vida

A

favourite haunt of the international jet-set (including crowned heads) since its inception, Do Forni epitomizes the time-honoured history of Venice, explains owner Eligio Paties: “During the golden years of the Venetian Republic, there was a furnace on this site (hence the name of the restaurant), which produced bread and confectionary for the nearby convent of San Zaccaria, but was also a small, typically Venetian osteria.” Since 1973, the venue has been run by Eligio Paties, whose inherent passion for food and genuine appreciation of hospitality has made it a sought-after destination for those visitors to Venice, who wish to experience the noblest traditions of hospitality. “The distinctive feature of the restaurant is undoubtedly its décor. Its typically Venetianstyle rooms offer a traditional, elegant setting, while its remaining dining spaces have been 32  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

designed to reproduce the dining car of the unforgettable Orient Express.” When dining in Venice the word ‘haste’ is forbidden. So, relax and indulge in a special evening enhanced by delectable food and a welcoming atmosphere. Its superb seasonal menu features typical Venetian specialties, where standouts include the ‘antipasti’ (crab and scallops) and ‘primi’ (don’t miss the risotto dishes and soups). Eligio Paties is also the owner of the Antico Pignolo, a restaurant located just a short distance from Do Forni. The origins of this venue date back to ancient times “probably a few centuries ago when, after being used as a depot for marble for St. Mark’s Basilica, it was rented by an innkeeper.” Here too, typical Venetian cuisine takes centre stage, and fish and meat are highlights of the menu, and will seduce the palates

of even the most discerning diners! (Calle Specchieri 451, T: 041 5228123, www.anticopignolo.com). >> Do Forni San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri) T: 041 5232148 www.doforni.it


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

"FIVE STAR" RESTAURANTS Aman Venice Restaurant The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’ . PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. www.aman.com. c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Antinoo’s Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge & Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. www.sinahotels.com. c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Acquerello The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages and offers an incomparable view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. www. kempinski.com. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. www.clubdeldoge.com. c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Open for dinner (closed on Tuesdays), 6.30pm11pm. €€€. www.jwvenice.com. c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from Piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

De Pisis

This restaurant pays tribute to Italian gastronomy and excellence. Thanks to thematic islands featuring an open-plan kitchen, you can watch the chef turning out his culinary delights while you wait. The restaurant offers a fabulous selection of fine wines and champagnes to accompany your choice of fish or meat courses. Also serves tantalizing aperitivi. €€€. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. www. bauervenezia.com. c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Do Leoni

Il Giardino Segreto

The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. www.londrapalace. com. c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

L’Alcova

Dopolavoro

La Cusina

Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work, this upscale restaurant is the go-to address after spending a long day exploring the labyrinthine street and treasures of Venice. Its chef, Giancarlo Perbellini skillfully combines tradition, creativity and a taste for innovation at this restaurant situated on an exclusive, private island measuring just 16 hectares in length.

For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours

Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. www. casagredohotel.com. c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Aromi Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chiane des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. €€€. www.molinostuckyhilton.it. c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Canova Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm10.30pm. €€€. www.baglionihotels.com. c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map F5

Club del Doge The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one.

SOLANA TERRACE BAR Overlooking romantic bridges and century-old palazzi, the elegant ambience of the Solana rooftop terrace bar at the Starhotels Splendid Venice makes it the hottest aperitivo venue in town.

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DINING

The stars of taste

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,

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'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4

Il Ridotto


DINING

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Osteria da Fiore

Met

Dopolavoro

Oro

Venissa

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Advertorial

Gourmet experiences

at the Canova restaurant

The Canova restaurant offers diners an elegant, intimate ambience, further enhanced by the glamorous old-world atmosphere of the historic Baglioni Hotel Luna. The innovative flavours of Chef Daniele Zennaro’s cuisine, based on high-quality, local, seasonal ingredients and attention to detail, offer guests an authentic Venetian tasting experience, upgraded with a creative twist. His passion for food comes from watching his grandmother at the stove in the kitchen when he was a child. As a result his cuisine harks back to the smells and flavours of his youth, offering the best of traditional Venetian cuisine revisited with a fresh dose of international creativity. The restaurant’s superlative dishes are complemented by an extensive wine list, offering a great selection of national and international vintages.

A menu of excellence – The chef’s specialties are designed to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. Highlights on his autumnal menu include ‘Baked lobster with sweet and sour radicchio from Treviso, served on a bed of baked pumpkin with candied ginger’ and his ‘Acquerello Risotto creamed with black ink sauce, topped with thinly sliced, lemon-flavoured cuttlefish’.

36  W H E R E V E N I C E I O 2016 S ECPTO T E BMEBRE R 2 016

Ristorante Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840 www.baglionihotels.com


DINING of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. www.lacusina.it. c/o The Westin Europa & Regina (www.starwoodhotels.com). San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

La Terrazza Since 1790, La Terrazza has been renowned in Venice for giving its name to the restaurant at Hotel Bonvecchiati. Set against the backdrop of the Canal and Calle Goldoni, in summer it is a must-visit place to savour typical Venetian, Italian and international cuisine. Also offers a fabulous selection of the best Italian and international vintages. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. www. hotelbonvecchiati.it. c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Le Maschere Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. www. starhotels.com. c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Oro Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. www.belmond.com. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Terrazza Danieli A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.terrazzadanieli.com. c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo

SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Osteria alla Rivetta

Alle Testiere

One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and seafood, with a menu that changes frequently and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www. osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

Antica Carbonera

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

A la Vecia Cavana

Antiche Carampane

A Beccafico Arte

Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellstocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect Conca d’Oro spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders (Lido stop). Map E3 of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning Alla Borsa out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. Located just a stone’s throw from the La Fenice concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo Opera House and St. Mark’s square, you can enjoy SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto tantalizing, beautifully prepared Mediterranean line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 cuisine at this elegant eatery. The kitchen is open from 12pm to midnight. €€€. www. Da Fiore ristoranteallaborsa.com. San Marco, 2018 (Calle de le Veste). T: 041 5235434. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. stop). Map E5 Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s Alla Madonna most famous restaurants. Impeccable service Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s and superlative Venetian dishes composed of most picturesque corners, the Rado family carefully selected seasonal ingredients have has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. stop). Map E3 ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   37


IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT BY STEFANO TRAINE

Burano

Cannaregio

Santa Croce

San Polo Dorsoduro

TRULY VENETIAN Looking for a really typical restaurant amidst the hundreds of venues you’ll come across while strolling through Venice? Here are a few tips to help you find the right place wherever you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying an excursion to the islands…

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca Lido ►

AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO RISTORANTE

Al Giardinetto

da Severino

Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style liver, ‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto.

www.algiardinetto.it Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332.

38  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Freshly caught fish and pasta are served at this family-run trattoria in the heart of Burano. The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since 1965. Must-try dishes include the chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’. www.gattonero.com Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120.


T R AT T O R I A R is to r a n te d e l “ B u o n R ic o r d o ”

TRATTORIA FAVORITA (LIDO) Since 1950 Luca Pradel and his wife Gabriella have been running this historic trattoria with passion paying tribute to Venetian cuisine, especially fish and seafood, with simple dishes that are fragrant and full of flavour. Lido di Venezia - Via Francesco Duodo, 33. T: 041 5261626.

TRATTORIA

DA ROMANO BURANO VENEZIA

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) The Barbaro family run the trattoria, enowned for fish, seafood and risottos, for four generations. Standouts include ‘risotto di Go’ and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked only over wood. www.daromano.it Burano - Via Baldassarre Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of Venetian hospitality. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

SINCE 1954

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO

www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 T: 02 xxxxx More info: www.wheremilan.com

Featuring rustic yet modern environs, this small, historical venue owned by Fabio Bianchi offers straightforward renditions of Adriatic cuisine: traditional pasta and delicious fried seafood and vegetables. Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 5230089. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   39


DINING Da Mario alla Fava Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giorgione A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele an unusual combination of Venetian specialties and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.

harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Caravella Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. www.restaurantlacaravella. com. c/o Hotel Saturnia. Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the

restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www. laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

La Zucca While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Muro Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Wildner

RISTORANTE DO LEONI The restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice with its creative fare and elegant, atmospheric dining spaces.

40  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4


Advertorial

PHOTOS © MORENO GALLO

The view is served

Far from the hustle and bustle of Venice’s more crowded districts and just a 10-minute walk from St. Mark’s Square, you can lunch or dine on a terrace that boasts a magnificent view over the lagoon. This is the fabulous option offered by restaurant-lounge bar ”Essentiale”, located in one of the most panoramic positions on the Lido of Venice, only 50 metres from the vaporetto stop and the docking stations of private boats. Situated in an early 20th-century villa, the facility has a magnificent veranda featuring typical Venetian-style furnishings and a garden terrace where you can linger until late in the evening and admire St. Marks under the moonlight. Loved by guests on account of its convenient position and designed to accommodate up to 60 diners, it offers traditional Venetian cuisine as well as international dishes, and an excellent selection of wines to toast the beauty spread out in front of you.

"Essentiale" Restaurant Lounge c/o Hotel Villa Laguna Lido di Venezia, Via Sandro Gallo, 6 T: 041 5261316

At the table of the gods – Its strategic position makes the Essentiale restaurant a highly sought-after destination during the Film Festival. However, during the year, its panoramic terrace and private docking station make it the perfect setting for exclusive parties and a favourite haunt of visiting VIPs.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Not only the most famous picture postcard of the city, and the great heart of Venice, St Mark’s is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions. The meeting with this unique city starts here… By Elena Binda

T

he Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower and square overlooking the water, is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks. In addition to being the city’s most important church, the Basilica is a monument to the history of Venice, a grand treasure chest of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-to-be-missed highlight. While in the area, 42  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

make sure to ascend to the top of its bell tower, which offers superb views over the city. There is no way you cannot visit Venice without visiting St. Mark’s. www.basilicasanmarco.it PLEASE NOTE The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary artistic heritage. However, at certain times or on certain days, it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For more information visit www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that it is open for visits. On entering, visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, as this is a place of worship.

Taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. For reasons of safety, heavy luggage must be left outside (luggage can be deposited in Ateneo San Basso, in Piazzetta dei Leoncini, in front of the Porta dei Fiori, north facade). Please note that you will probably have to wait for about 45 minutes in order to gain access to the Basilica. However, priority access can be booked at www. venetoinside.com > Attractions and Museums, entry ticket €2. Entry to the Basilica is free-of-charge, but admission to the Museum, the Pala d’Oro and the Bell Tower is not. The whole building (except for the bell tower) is accessible to people with physical disabilities and wheelchair users who can gain entry through the north gate.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Basilica di San Marco

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water

and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125

VENICE BIENNALE For more than a century, the Venice Biennale has been one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. Renowned for its avant-garde approach to research and the promotion of new artistic trends, it organizes important international exhibitions related to art and architecture (it is held bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is considered the world’s number one platform for its International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (annual), its Music and Theatre Festival and its more recent Dance Festival. In addition to its traditional appointments, it has added new, permanent activities over time. Costs, venues and opening hours vary according to the activity underway. Voucher Venezia Unica holders are eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). www.labiennale.org

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(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-

1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'

Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.

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Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

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The “Scuole Grandi”

Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun

Scuola di San Rocco

Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with

paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www. ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.

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Peggy Guggenheim Collection

8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

THE HEIRESS AND HER LOVE FOR ART The niece of Solomon R. Guggenheim, Peggy was born in New York in 1898 into a wealthy Jewish family. Following the death of her father on the Titanic in 1912, Peggy Guggenheim inherited a small fortune, becoming one of the richest women in America. She lived between Paris and London. She became a patron of the arts and a collector of contemporary art. Peggy was always surrounded by artists and lovers: she married the writer and Dadaist painter Laurence Vail and then Surrealist artist Max Ernst. After opening an art gallery in London and another in New York, in 1948 Peggy was invited to exhibit her collection of paintings at the Biennale of Venice. She fell in love with the city where she spent the rest of her life.

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contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro

She died in 1979 and her ashes are buried in a corner of the garden of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing

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attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo di Storia Naturale

Museo Querini Stampalia

Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and

The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale

PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando ( responible also for the restoration of Punta della Dogana), it showcases the extraordinary Pinault Collection and features personal and collective exhibitions. www.palazzograssi.it

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   47


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an actionpacked calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during

MUSEO DI PALAZZO MOCENIGO The museum boasts a new section dedicated to the history of perfume and essences: six rooms showcasing ancient artefacts, documents and multimedia materials designed to offer visitors an immersive, multi-sensory experience. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo. visitmuve.it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays.

The 'Bagnante' bronze sculpture by Max Klinger (1897) is part of the prestigious collection of CA’ PESARO.

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Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4


PHOTO BY ALVISE NICOLETTI

ENTERTAINMENT

Shakespeare live! Until December, 60 performances of plays set in the Italian locations Shakespeare imagined when he wrote them. By Stefania Vida lobby, the second on the stately Pietro Longhi staircase, the third in the ‘il Portego’ room and the final scene in the Music Room. This is a unique opportunity to admire a 15th century palace, one of Venice’s most romantic and mesmerizing architectural gems, while interacting with the players, sharing their emotion and taking home the memory of an unforgettable evening. After the performance, guests will have a chance to partake in a themed dinner featuring a typically Shakespearian menu... to fully savour this unique trip back in time! In addition to Venice, other spectacular sites in the region have been chosen to host Shakespeare’s plays including the Scaligero Castle on the banks of Lake Garda, mystical courtyards in Verona and a historic villa in the Veneto countryside. For information and bookings: www.shakespeareinveneto.it

>> 26 October, 16 and 30 November, 7 December 2016 Ca’ Sagredo, Cannaregio, 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia) www.casagredohotel.com

PHOTO BY RANDY JAY BRAUN 2011

N

ot everyone knows that 2016 marks the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s death, and what better way to commemorate this than by staging performances of his plays in some of the locations in which they were set? “Shakespeare in Veneto” is an event (in English) involving the entire region of Veneto and the cities where the poet chose to set several of his most important works including ‘Romeo and Juliet’, ‘Othello’, ‘The Merchant of Venice’, the ‘Taming of the Shrew’ and ‘Two Gentlemen of Verona’. Located in the heart of Venice, overlooking the Grand Canal, the opulent rooms of Venice’s Ca’ Sagredo hotel have been chosen to stage Othello, a domestic tragedy featuring timeless themes; love, hate, jealousy, intrigue, revenge, suspicion, judgment and reason. Different scenes of the play will be staged in different areas of the hotel. The opening scene will take place in the

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ENTERTAINMENT CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES

GAMBLING & CASINOS

Teatro Goldoni

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

Teatro Malibran Opened in 1678, during the 17th and 18th centuries, the theatre, at that time known as ‘Teatro San Giovanni Crisostomo’, was mainly famed for its operas. Dripping with elegant ornamentation, it was known as the biggest, most beautiful and richest theatre in the city. Acquired by the City of Venice in 1992, after being restored and enlarged, it temporarily hosted the orchestra of La Fenice Theatre which was destroyed by arson in 1996 (see listing). In 2001, it became Venice’s second largest alternative for opera. www.teatrolafenice.it. Cannaregio, 5873. T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Teatro San Gallo Unlike other theatres in the city (La Fenice, the Goldoni and the Malibran), the building was constructed in 1924 as a cinema (Cinema Olimpia), only being converted into a theatre in 2007. After various vicissitudes, in October 2015, it began staging musicals and plays with the aim of attracting an international audience and promoting educational activities. VENICE ON SHOW Every night of the year, “Venezia, The Show” is performed in English (the theatre is equipped with audio guides for other languages), see illustrated box on this page. The theatre is also available for private parties, events, and conferences. www.teatrosangallo.net. San Marco, 1097 (Campo San Gallo). T: 041 2412002. Booking office email: teatrosangallo@gmail.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

50  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

Casinò di Venezia

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

Centro Benessere Casanova An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4

San Clemente Palace Kempinski Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

Eforea Spa The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

■ OPERA 1, 6, 9 October DONIZETTI, L’ELISIR D’AMORE Stefano Montanari, conductor Bepi Morassi, director 2, 4, 8 October VERDI, LA TRAVIATA Nello Santi and Francesco Ivan Ciampa, conductors Robert Carsen, director ■ CONCERTS 14, 16 October YURI TEMIRKANOV Robert Carsen, director Yuri Temirkanov, conductor Music by: Gioachino Rossini, Franz Joseph Haydn, Sergej Prokof’ev ■ OTHER EVENTS 2 October (Sale Apollinee) ARS GALLICA (EX NOVO MUSICA) Music by: Camille Saint-Saëns 3 October LA FENICE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Music by: Ludwig van Beethoven and Robert Schumann Alexander Lonquich, piano and conductor 9 October (Sale Apollinee) JOHN CAGE ON SATIE (EX NOVO MUSICA) Daniele Ruggieri and Francesco Prode, piano Guido Barbieri, voice 15, 18, 20, 22, 23 October (Teatro Malibran) BATTISTELLI, IL MEDICO DEI PAZZI Francesco Lanzillotta, conductor Francesco Saponaro, staging 17 October EZIO BOSSO & LA FENICE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Music by: J.S. Bach, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy and Ezio Bosso Ezio Bosso, conducto Sergej Krylov, , violin 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 October (Sale Apollinee) I TRE GOBBI Michele Modesto Casarin, Staging


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Vicenza, the treasures of Gallerie d’Italia

Gallerie d’Italia Palazzo Leoni Montanari Vicenza, Contra’ Santa Corona, 25 T: 800 578875 75 kilometres from Venice informazioni@palazzomontanari.com www.gallerieditalia.com Ancient pottery from Attica and Magna Grecia, 18th century Venetian art and Russian icons: the treasures housed at Palazzo Leoni Montanari in Vicenza, a magnificent art city located just one hour from Venice, are truly breathtaking. The only Baroque residence in Vicenza, the ‘palazzo’, with its opulent decorations, is per se an attraction worth visiting. The pieces displayed, including a collection of ancient pottery, 34 important paintings from the Venetian School and 140 precious examples of Russian icons from the Medieval age to the present time, offer visitors an insightful view into the past. The museum was established to host and introduce the public to the art collection owned by the Intesa Sanpaolo Group, one of Italy’s foremost credit institutes. They are a part of the Gallerie d’Italia circuit whose members include Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano in Naples and Le Gallerie di Piazza Scala in Milan. Giovanni Bellini masterpiece – From 6 October to 11 December, to mark the 500th anniversary of the artist’s death, Gallerie d’Italia will exhibit a masterpiece by Renaissance genius. The work, entitled The Transfiguration of Christ, an exceptional loan from the Capodimonte Museum in Naples, is closely associated with Vicenza on account of originally having been painted for the Fioccardo Chapel of Vicenza’s Duomo. w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   51


OUT OF TOWN

Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii

Verona and the Adige river

Although the Arena attracts music lovers/ aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house (in via Cappello 23) with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony (an interesting fact: you can now get married on the balcony

where Romeo promised his undying love for Juliet), while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. For more information visit www. sposamiaverona.it). Before leaving the house of Shakespeare’s heroine, don’t forget to

AMIDST ROMANTICISM AND BIEN VIVRE Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates vistors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life, which is further heightened in summer by a one-ofa-kind stage, its ancient Arena (the second largest amphitheatre after Rome’s Colosseum, dating back to the 1st century B.C.). The venue hosts a rich calendar of events including opera, Aida is not to be missed, – classical, rock and pop concerts, as well as ballet featuring some of the world’s most famous stars. 52  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

Marostica

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LUGANO MENDRISIO

Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona

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NOVARA

MILANO Mantua

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Abano Montegrotto ?

Padua

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Palmanova

? ? Noventa di Piave

?Venice

TRIESTE

? Chioggia

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

Treviso

FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA

BOLOGNA

RIMINI

MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

MAR ADRIATICO

PISA

LIVORNO

FIRENZE ANCONA


CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page and on the right, aerial views of Verona, founded on the banks of the Adige some time in the 2nd century BCE. The city of the Arena (below) and of Romeo and Juliette, it is a World Heritage site. Many of the most famous Veneto villas are also protected by UNESCO: below, Villa Pisani in Stra.

touch the right breast of her statue. According to legend, this gesture brings good luck and helps you find true love. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on, and the crypt of what used to be the ancient monastery of San Francesco al Corso still houses the young Capulet’s tomb, for centuries, a pilgrimage for die-hard romantics. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. For more info visit www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

Piazza delle Erbe, Verona

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Located approximately thirty kilometers from Venice (see photo), it is probably the most famous of all Venetian villas. Built in 1721 and set within one of the most beautiful parks in Italy (renowned for its famous maze of love), its interiors are enhanced by numerous works of art, including the magnificent ceiling frescoed by Tiepolo. The villa, built in honour of the 114th Doge of Venice, Alvise Pisani, originally had 114 rooms and has hosted half of Europe’s ‘aristocracy’, who holidayed in the area, as well as numerous heads of state, including Napoleon, Mussolini and Hitler (their first meeting was held here in 1934). Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta.

Villa Pisani, Stra

Chioggia w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   53


OUT OF TOWN | VENETO This nickname, according to legend, derives from the story of a noblewoman, Elisabetta Dolfin, who was locked up here after allegedly being unfaithful to her husband. It was designed by the famous Renaissance architect, and is currently a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its linear, classical façade conceals frescoed rooms and luxurious interiors that are further enhanced in the evening by flickering candlelight. At the request of its owners, the villa is still without electricity. Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex, is also found in the vicinity of Mira. In addition to the rococo-style manor house, it has a boathouse, a small chapel, a courtyard, a greenhouse and a large garden enhanced by a lake. While in Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni, famous for having hosted the famous ‘King’s dinner’, organized by Federico, the owner of the time, for the future king of France, at which 22 courses were served. The two marble lions from which the villa takes its name were actually an 18th century addition. The eyes of the original lions were set with precious stones, which sadly were stolen by Napoleon in 1807. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei, who lived there during the 17th century, and who was buried in the adjoining oratory. For further information visit www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

Vicenza

CHIOGGIA Also known as ‘little Venice’, thanks to its scenic canals, which are the focus of its urban layout, Chioggia is perched on the Southern tip of Venice’s Lagoon. With its colourful houses, set closely together and intermittently interspersed with majestic churches and austere, aristocratic palazzi, Chioggia has maintained all the distinctive features of a fishing village. The most ancient part, a maze consisting of labyrinthine alleys and canals spread across a handful of islets resembles a docked ship, and is only connected to the mainland by a few streets, one of which leads to the long beach of Sottomarina, a perfect spot to enjoy a relaxing break. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 55 km by car or 1.30 hour (battello line19) VICENZA Vicenza, the city of the Palladian Villas built by famous Renaissance architect Andrea 54  W H E R E V E N I C E I O S ECPTO TEB MEBRE R 2016 2 016

Padua

Palladio, boasts the largest number of UNESCO World Heritage sites. The town alone, features thirty nine, including palaces, villas and churches, with an additional 16 villas in the province, bringing the total to forty seven. The heart of Vicenza is the majestic Palladian Basilica, renovated in 2012 and surrounded by magnificent aristocratic palaces including the Loggia del Capitaniato, the neoclassical Palazzo Chiericati and Casa Pigafeta, with its elaborate Gothic decorations. Just outside the historic centre, three villas designed by Palladio are also worth visiting: the Rotonda, Villa Gazzotti Grimani and Villa Trissino. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 75 km

PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz' cocktail.

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km


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Discover the wine region of Friuli

In an area boasting a heritage of unmistakable flavours, history and tradition, the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia is renowned throughout the world for its vineyards. In terms of terroir, the most important influence on its vineyards is its position between the Alps and the Adriatic. The Colmello di Grotta estate is a perfect example of this eclectic mix, and a must-visit destination for those who want to learn more about Italy’s winemaking culture. It was restored in 1965, following the Bennati family’s decision to renovate an old, abandoned hamlet to its former splendour. Its 21 hectares of vineyards are at an altitude of between 40 and 80 meters above sea level, and all face south. The vines are divided equally between the DOC Collio and Isonzo appellations, which are planted at a short distances one from each other, but are placed in completely different soil types resulting in the fascinating, feminine Isonzo wines and the powerful, masculine ones from Collio.

Colmello di Grotta Via Gorizia, 133 - Farra D’Isonzo (Gorizia), approximately 130 km from Venice. T: 0481 888445 - colmello@spin.it www.colmello.it

TIP | The estate offers wine tasting experiences for groups of up to a maximum of 20 people (booking required). People in Venice – Francesca Bortolotto (President and CEO of the Bauer Hotel Group in Venice, a historic reference point amongst the luxury hotels on the Lagoon) is the brain, heart and soul of the magnificent Colmello di Grotta wine estate. Ms. Bortolotto runs the estate with verve and passion producing some of Italy’s finest vintages, creating the perfect souvenir for lovers of DOC sparkling wines. w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   55


OUT OF TOWN | ABANO-MONTEGROTTO

Euganei Hills

A unique blend of nature, art and wellness Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town.

At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has gained international recognition. In addition being published in leading art and botany books, it was named the most beautiful garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was used as the setting for the Merchant of Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, chose it for a program that was aired live and, in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, dedicated an installment of the program ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting it from among twenty of Europe’s most important historical gardens. Each year, the garden is a highly sought-after destination for international tourists.

THE MAJESTIC PARK, THE STAR OF THE SHOW The villa, which was used as a residence prior to the design of its monumental garden, complements the majestic park. In fact, it is the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main feature. The garden was built during the second half of the 17th century by Venetian nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio.

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It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the religious symbolism of the project designed by leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or Portal of Diana was not the only main access route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing gateway represented the beginning of the Road to Salvation, ending in the open space that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also known as the Fountain of Ecstasy.

A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian stone. There are also other minor sculptures that blend harmoniously with the architecture, streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features and fish pools that are scattered amidst numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the complex itself, important highlights along the Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,

WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its monumental garden is located in an area steeped in nature and history, the ideal destination for art lovers and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to the thermal waters of Abano and Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after destination for those in search of relaxing, wellness retreats


OUT OF TOWN Advertorial

Garden of Villa Barbarigo

visitors could access the Portal of Diana – socalled because of the goddess of hunting who stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio (from which the garden takes its name) to reach the landing stage in front of the garden.

AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden boasts a number of fully operative water features and is currently one of the largest, best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit for the preservation of this beautifully tended

garden is owed to the loving care bestowed upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel family and the Counts of Martinengo during the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Rose during the early 20th century. The villa and it gardens have been the property of the Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners of the estate for three generations, the PizzoniArdemani family not only repaired the damage caused by military occupation and the forced abandonment of the villa during World War II, but also recently renovated all of the garden’s 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of gradual ground-water depletion. www.valsanzibiogiardino.it info@valsanzibiogiardino.it

The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website.

Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo

WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Thermal Water” line, thermal spring water is combined with two anti-ageing properties: hyaluronic acid which helps to restore skin elasticity, and natural antioxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from the effects of ageing. This line is a result of the combination of thermal water drawn from four springs in the Veneto region, mixed to obtain different concentrations based on their specific salinity: water from the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating from deep underground springs); the low mineral content water from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ in Crespano (home to the spring named for Empress Sissi ); and finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through the municipalities of Abano, Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and Galzignano at a temperature of 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ can be purchased online at www.aquaehotels.it or from the best hotels and sales points in the area. Ask your concierge.

B E N E S S E R E

S T I L E

D I

V I T A

www.aquaehotels.it

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as 58  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre. Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used

by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

all pharmacies.

Airports

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one

pass that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en)

Special City Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ON-HOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: (adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the Sightseeing Experience free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free Sightseeing Experience App, walking

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom-made according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').

Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

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ESSENTIALS tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia, in front of platforms 13 and 14 and it very close to Stop n.1): any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines: e.g. to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity: • Milan 2h 23min • Turin 4h 08min • Rome 3h 24 min • Naples 4h 53min.

MUSEUM PASS Just one ticket for 11 museums > The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > The ticket is valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Museo di Storia Naturale. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

60  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

Museo Correr


ESSENTIALS GETTING AROUND VENICE

Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits.

Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge.

Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

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Accademia

CA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

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Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

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CA

C.

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S. Basilio

100 m

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Santo Stefano

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Rialto

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

AN

TI

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Palazzo Fortuny

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9d

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San Beneto San Luca

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Chiesa di Ognissanti

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CAMPO SAN GIACOM

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

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IO

LL

A DE ET

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San Vidal

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DA SAN

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Palazzo Grimani

CAL

AN

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CA

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San Giaco di Rialt

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

DEI PUT

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CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

de ran

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

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BA

CALLE SAN BASILIO

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DE LLE CA

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San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZ ZINI CALLE DIETRO

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S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

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SE

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

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ELE SAMU

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RCA LE SPOIENZE CAL PAZ DE LE

SA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

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TA

ON

EN

RD

AM

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

LA

San Barnaba

A

A SCOAZZER DE LA E IENZ

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LL E

CALLE

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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

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Angelo Raffaele

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CA

FO

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CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

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i

min

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Santa Maria dei Carmini

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CAMPO ON RD SAN APONAL L PE DE

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Sant’Aponal

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

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CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

NE

CAMPO SAN BENETO C AL LE

DI SAN MARCO

O

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

al G

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S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CA

LLE

MPA

Sant'Angelo

TT

del

CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE

NI

Rio

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

HE

CA

O

RA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

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A

AG

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Can

L TR

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CA

S.Silvestro

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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LE

LL

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LE CAL

San Tomà

CA

NIE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

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CAMPO DEI FRARI

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CAMPO SAN POLO

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CAMPO SAN ROCCO

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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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BR

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AM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

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San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

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CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

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ON

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CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

San Pantalon

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I

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AP

San Stae Ca' Pesaro ST Santa Sofia RA Galleria Internazionale D d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro A N O V A

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

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Abazia della Misericordia D

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San Felice

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CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

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tini

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La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN BOLDO C.

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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de

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on

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CAMPIELLO LONGHI

Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2016. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org

ZO

TO

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MEN

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CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

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San Giacomo dall'Orio

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CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

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N

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CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

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della

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

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CAMPIELLO

San Simeone Profeta Palazzo Soranzo Capello

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CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

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CAMPO FO ND DEI MORI AM EN TA DEI MO RI

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Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

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People Mover Venezia

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AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

TORCELLO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAMENTA

ISOLA

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ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

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COPPO

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

SCHIAVONA

M

CALLE

CALLE TERCO

CALLE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALLE CORERA

TE

Punta della Dogana

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

STRETA

CALLE DEI

Canale

de le

SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

DOSE DEL

CALLE

CALLE

LE

DE

CALLE DEL FORNO

FORNO

SAN

AI

RIO

ISEPO

TERÀ

SANT'ANTONIO

VIALE

Japan Pavilion

BB

C. D EL

CAR

XXIV M AGG

I

NO

ERA

CH

LE

INO

TTO LA

GEN

EL

LE

C.

AR

CAL

ZU

LL

MP

CA

O

CA

LL

CA

E

LL

E

O

RA

MA

DI

GR

MO

SQ

UE

RT

GN

A

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

E

CA

RN

AR

SANT'ELENA

VIALE

SA

LL

N

F.

VI

CA

LL

E

MA

SO

AL

E

N

VI

TT

OR

IO

VI

VE

AL

NE

E

IV

NO

VE

O

M

BR

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

Lido S. Nicolo'

SANT’ELENA

E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

TO

K IA

CA

LL

E

DE

LL

A

FO

ND

ER

IA

Ò

Rio

CA

E

Teatro Verde

E

LL

LL

E

AN

RO

R

IE

A

TE

CA

ZI

TA

ER

EN

Parco delle Rimembranze

MP

E

CA

G

E

N

LL

LI

CA

OL

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

STRETTA

DE CALLE

ROTONDA

DEI

GRANDE

CALLE

PONTE

CALLE

FIANCO

SAN GIACOMO

CORTE

AM

E

FONDAMENTA

ACCADEMIA

Lungo

OC

LO

LE

CR

GE

del

TA

Santa Croce

OSPIZIO

CALLE

EN

CROCE

AN

CALLE

AM

DELLA

EL

FONDAMENTA

ND

CALLE

FO

CALLE

CH

Ponte

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

MI

JUNGHANS

DE

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE MORE

CALLE ALBERO

E

ERBE

M E N TA

LL

CALLE

FONDA

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

ND

PICCOLO

RIO CROCE

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

VI

FO

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

RI

IA

V

FEM

PA

SS

'EU

SANT'ELENA

SANT'ELENA

TI

C

NT

SCUOLA

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

SO

BO

LI

MAGGIORE

SA

SAN GIORGIO

I

N

E

N

NT

SA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

VA

O

IO

U I P

G

M

N

IN

SA

C.

TA

RD

TA

IA

EN

VIALE PIAVE

Russia Pavilion

G

EN

COSMO

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca AM

CALLE

CO

E

Sant'Eufemia

CONVERTITE

NI

United States Pavilion

AL

AM

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VI

D

RE

FORNACE

SALONI

N

EMB

PALUDO CALLE

ISOLA DI

FO

E IV NOV

TERRÀ

Giardini

S. Giorgio

Spirito Santo

VIAL

ZATTERE

PALUDO CALLE

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

Rio d el Giardini

BO

DEL CALLE

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE

CALLE

SANTA CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

C. DE LA MADONETA

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE DE

LE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

SOFIA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO SALIZADA

BOMBASEI

APRILE

CALLE

MERCERIA

II

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

CORONA DELLA

C.

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

CALLE

ENA

BALD

CALLE

I S ET

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

FONDAMENTA

I CASE

DELLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVE

DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

LA

VECCHIA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

DE

FA R S

ET

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

C.

STAE

FORNO

SAN

DEL

CA’

LUCIA

C.

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL

PICCOLO

DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

LA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

DE CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

DE

DE

CALLE

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI CALLE

MUNEGHE

LE DE CALLE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA

DA PONTE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE

DE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

VA

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

CALLE

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

COLTRERA

DOGE

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

DEL

RAMO DE

CALLE

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE FRIZIER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

FOND

DE LA

C. LOREDANA

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

E N TA

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE

SANGIANTOFFETTI

VIDA

CROSERA

EREMITE

LA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DAM

DEI

DE

CASTELLO

FONDAMENTA

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CATECUMENI

RIO

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

RIO TERRÀ

Giardino delle Vergini Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

RI

San Gregorio

CALLE DEL BASTION

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

DI

DEI CORTELLOTTI

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

PIETRO

NANI

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

SAN

CALLE

L’ANZOLO

PISCINA

DE

RUGA VECCHIA

FOSCARINI

NUOVE

DONA

DE

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

C. VOLTO

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

VENIER

DE

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

SEBASTIANO

CELESTIA

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

FONDAMENTA

ANTONIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

BRAGADIN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

BASTION

VERONA

TERRÀ

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SCUDI

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

PISCINA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

SAN SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE DELLE GATE CALLE DEI FURLANI

VONI

100 m

SAN

ND

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CALLE TERAZZERA

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

FONDAMENTA

FO

SAN

SALIZADA

CORTE SACCA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

DEL

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

DEGLI

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

DEL

PISCINA

VERONA

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

O

SCHIAVONI RIVA

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

VENIER FONDAMENTA

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

CERERIA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

ZORZI SALIZADA

DE LE

FABBRI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RC

CALLE

LA

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

R I VA

A N M

SALIZADA

PORTO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DE

LATERANO

SAN

C.

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

SA

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

a

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

SAN

CALLE

RC

FONDAMENTA

SAN

DEL

DIREZIONE

BARBARIA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco MA

SAN

Museo Correr

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

San

Marittim

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

LARGA

Santa Maria del Pianto

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

CALLE

BEMBO

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

RIO

CALLE

MAGAZZINI

DEI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

C.

AI

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

G. GALLINA

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

C.

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

CALLE

DE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

San Moisè

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

CAMPO SAN LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

CORTE BAROZZI

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

LE

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

LARGA

RIO

Teatro Malibran

C. DEL

SAN

C.DE

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

PISCINA

XXII MARZO

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SABION

MAGAZEN

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

ORESI

CALLE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

MADONA

Stazione

FABBRICHE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

LE

CALLE

DOLERA

DEL CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

MICHIEL

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

San Fantin

Casa di Marco Polo

FONTEGO

PIO

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CALLE ASSASSINI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CORTE SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego CALLE LARGA Dolfin Manin MAZZINI

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Luca

TEATRO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

DE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

ZEN

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

SOTOPORTEGO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario

Zattere

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

CATERINA

CALLE

C.

DEL

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

Santi Apostoli

Chiesa Evangelica Luterana

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Palazzo Rava

S.Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

Santo Stefano

Canal Grande

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

VOLTI

RAVANO

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

S.ANDREA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEL

RUGHETA

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

NOVE

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

San Beneto CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CORTE

PONTE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

DEL CALLE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

San Vidal

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

Ca’ D’Oro

Ca na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd e

MUTI

Sant’Aponal

TRAGHETTO

zera

TRAPOLIN

LA

San Felice

CA’

BOTA

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

DIETRO

Abazia della Misericordia

IA

VENDRAMIN

DEL

LA

CARAMPANE

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

D

CALLE

Rio Nuovo

Bacino

R

CALLE

TABACCHI

Scomen

O

DONZELA

NUOVA

Canale

IC

CALLE

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Sant’Agnese

VAPORETTO

ER

CA'

DE DE

DE

al G

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

FALIER

FONDAMENTA

DEL

IS

DE

CALLE CALLE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Can SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

Palazzo Loredan

Ponte dell'Accademia

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

Gallerie dell'Accademia

LONGO

CALLE

M

FONDAMENTA

LA

CALLE

DE

TA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

CARROZZE

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

FOND.

EN

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

L’AGNELLA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CA’

LEZZE

LE

San Samuele

CALLE

ZATTERE AL

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna

DEI

DE

SCALETER

CALLE

CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

D

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

DEL

Palazzo Mocenigo

RAMO

Ca' Rezzonico

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE CHIESA

N

S.Stae

San Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

DE

C.

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi

CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

DELLA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

MORI

NA

La Maddalena

TRON

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

San Tomà

Palazzo Balbi

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

SAN

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

San Barnaba

NA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Maria Mater Domini

Palazzo Grioni C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

L’ASEO

Accademia

DE OGNISANTI

CA

DE

PAPADOPOLI

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

LE

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

CALLE

NIE

DD

MORETTI

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

TINTORETTO

DEI

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

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MA

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

SAN

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

DE

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

CALLE

San Pantalon

FOMO

LA

SAN BOLDO

CALLE

RIO

San Rocco

Muneghete

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

S. Basilio

100 m

C.

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

À D E

Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

TINTOR

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

NUOVO

FO de Servi N

TER

S.Marcuola

DE

DE LA VIDA

San Giacomo dall'Orio

DEL

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Santa Maria dei Carmini

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

RAMO

Rio

CALLE

Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

della

Rio

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

San Zan Degola

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

RUGA BELA

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

BESAGIO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

LARGA

PONTE SALIZADA SAN

Palazzo Gidoni

RIO

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

San Sebastiano

IA

VECCHIO

CALLE LUNA

SALIZADA

del

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RD

R

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

I CALLE ORSETT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

LA

DEI AMAI

San Nicola da Tolentino

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

LARDONI

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DE CAMPO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

Angelo Raffaele

CALLE

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI ER

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

LA

PROCURATIE

CERERI

DE L’OGIO

MIS

RIO

CAMPIELLO

BIASIO

DI

BARI LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

FONDAMENTA

Soranzo Cappello

CORTE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

DEI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

TA

E DEL PISTO

STRADA

DE

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

EN

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEI

MADONA

AM

CALL

NUOVE

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

LA

ND

I

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

Ponte degli Scalzi

Ferrovia

CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

DE

LER

San Leonardo

San Geremia SPAGNA

DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

SCALZI DEI

Sant'Andrea SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAVALLETTI

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

SE

FO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico

CAL

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

EN

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO

AM

San Girolamo

SE

TRONCHETTO

MERCATO

ND

INE

SAVORGNAN

Palazzo Labia Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE DEI FUSERI

ZZ

FONDAMENTA

A E M

CALLE

DEL

DIREZIONE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAPITELO

CASE

PU

LL

NOVA

TRONCHETTO

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

DEL

CA

CA

ISOLA

People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa FO

LE

O

PIAVE

DE

AM

CALLE

TA

OL

LARG

EN

DEL SABION

BECCARIE

AM

N G IR

Palazzo Nani

FONDAMENTA

LE

ND

SA

C.

TA

LLO

FONDAMENTA

FO

EN

TE

Parco Savorgnan

CALLE

AM

B AT

D’ORO

ND

TA

DEL

EN

CALLE

AM

MATTIA

FORNER

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

SAN

DEL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

della

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

CAMPO SAFFA

L’ARCO

CALLE

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

DE

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

SAN

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

VECCHIA

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

Parco "Villa Groggia"

Monastero Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

RUGA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

BRAGADIN

LI

PISCINA

LA

FONDAMENTA

EL

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

INCURABILI

LE

CALLE

A

CALLE ZUCCHERO

VI

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

ES

S. Servolo

RI

VI

A

SA

N

N TA

MA

P

O

N

M

IA

EL

AB

ET

TA

VI

A

IS

A

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AR

A

S

M

IR

N

M

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FO

C

O

D

U

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D

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AR

IN

VI

VIC

PA

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IZ

ZO

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D

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A

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NU

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A

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VIA

N

IE

A

BR

VI

GA

SA

RIA

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LE

EL

ISA

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AR

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S TA

AN

L

T TA

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LL GA

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E

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ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

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VIA VETTOR PISANI

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FA

SA

MA

ND

RO

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GO

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GR

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

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SAN SERVOLO

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IP

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VI

A

DE

LL

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SP

IZ

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M

AR

IN

O

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Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

IA

NI

A

IS

NA

A

D

A

LM

A

ZI

A

AR

M

M

ZO

AR

C

O

N

EL

LM

RE

CO

NI

VI

LO

LO

IE

A

GL

VI

GU

O

E

VIA CAN DIA

A

VIA

CA

ND

IA

SANDRO

LU

NG

OM

AR

O SE LV

PO

VI

VIA

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

CO

GALLIPOLI

VIA

JA

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

TR

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

LU

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

VI

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

M

O

RO

SI

N

I

N

I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

MB

ER

TI

Hotel Excelsior Venice

AN

LU

A

DR

EA

CA

LM

O

DI

CO

RI

NT

O

VI

N

G

O

M

AR

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TI

A

LA

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AN

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PIZZAMANO

E

VIA

ND

BU

D.

AR

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O

RO

TR

GA

PIE

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C

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S. Antonio Di Padova

A

RI

VA

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A

J.

DI

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A

A.

M

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OR

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OS

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IN

ON

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VA

AN

ND

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ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

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SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

VI

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ON

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AS

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VIA FRANCESCO

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RI

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ER

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PEZZANA

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VI

A

CO

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DE

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TT

A

I R E

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2

TA

VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

DI

NI

PIVIDOR

I

A VI CO OC AM AL M A

PARRI

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

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PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI

RO UE SQ L DE

n ti

DI CA

ic a

nd

IM EN

DE TA

i M e

NT

I

E

EN

AM

FO

ND

De

R io

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA SANTA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

CA

PIETA’

E CA ST

EL LO

ve

TA A R SE

VID A

LA TANA

E N N LO O C LE AL C

I

N

LO

E

5

SA

TA

N

GI

PP

E

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

IA

SAN T'EL

TTO

C.

SS

ZU

GN

A

Sant'Elena

F.

PA

see pages 6-7

S. Servolo

INO

LA

CH

EL

LE

AR

ERA

ENA

H

GEN

ENA

G

LE

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

LL

E

CA

LL

CA

Top in Town

CAL

FON DAM

NO

IA

F

TI

ER

SO

BO

ND

CAR

SA

FO

E

A

NT

LL

O

DE

M

E

IO

C.

LO

LL

C. D EL

I

IO

GE

CA

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

C

PIZ

RO

AN

UE

EL

SQ

LI

ON

OS

AN

BB

E

Japan Pavilion

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI  CANAL GRANDE  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO  TEATRO LA FENICE  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO  PALAZZO DUCALE  THE GHETTO  PONTE DI RIALTO  THE ISLANDS 

CH

E

GR

LL

MI

LL

MO

Teatro Verde

LL E

CA

S MA

E

L

CA

RA

MAGGIORE

E

LL

CA

LE

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

RT

IN

MA

RD

LO

DI

I

United States Pavilion

VIALE

E VIAL E PIAV

Russia Pavilion

G

EL

PO

N

CC A

A

EN

AL

PI

M CA

N

LA E PO

LL

AM

VI

E

M CA

EN

EN

VA

CA

LL

AM

E

CA

CA

ND

T

AM

IO

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CE

TT E

FO

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TA

D

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

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AL

ION

NE

FO

N

U

BB O

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O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

ND

Giardini

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SA

Q

SA IST

CA

FO

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S. Giorgio

TA

LE

C.

NA

RI

R L C

MA

DE

CO

C.

RE

O

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

SE

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

AL

C A L L E C ATA PA N

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALL

RI

C

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

TI

IB PE GAR

AR

IAN

M

GIUSEP

E

SARES

TT

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

DE

VIALE

NA

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

CALL

VA

SALUT E

AM ON

V TA

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA

I GELO CALLE DELL’AN

BALD

SAL

LE

OS E CR

I

GARI

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

VA E NUO

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

oise

EPPE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

ESSO

PRET E DEI

LAR

E COLT

CALL

VAL

RTIRI

IUS VIA G

CAL

IN

ST

FONDAME

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

FONI

CA

RAMO DE

RI

NDAM ENTA

SAL IZAD

TAN A

MARA

CALL E

DI

AM

DE LA

CALL

CALLE

FO ND

CAM PO

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

O

EN TA

LA

A RO SA

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

AMEN

E LA RG

RE

FOND

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

EMB

DE I FO RN I CA LL E

LE

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

O

I MA

100 m

ENA

TR

E

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

ARS

P IE

ION

FONDAMENTA

NI

E N TA

N

DE

DAM

A STR ETA

mo DEI

ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

FON

FONDAMENTA

CA LLE

ini

E IV NOV

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

Verg

SA

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

R I VA D EGLI

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

I ITT GR

Rio de San Gerola

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

AL

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

RS EN

NATER PIG

DE

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

4

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

VIAL

am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo

L’AN ZO LO

enta

DE

ale

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

E

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

CALLE DEI

OV

delle

E CAPP

FONDAMENTA

CALL

CAL PEL LO O CAP

NU

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

LE MUR

CALLE CAVALL I

CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

AN A

IERA

DE LL A CO RO NA

C.

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

E

C.

ALL

C

C. DE LA MADONETA

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DEL

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AP II

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CALL

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S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CA

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TA

IA

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DE ADA SALIZ

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Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

EN

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LE TRE

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CAL

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DEGLI

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DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

LLE

MO GL A DE RIV

SA LO

R I VA

CE

N IO ST BA

CA

Museo Correr

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

LL A

AM

L DE

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Palazzo Ducale

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

TT

zo

LE

OLO

7 2

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SALIZAD A SAN

DE

ND

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SE

AL CAV

OR

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DEL

TA

l Palaz

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EN

MA

SAN

ZZA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

AM

PIA

ENTA FONDAM

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

ND

Rio De

LE CAL

FO

Basilica di San Marco

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

LL E

CAL LE

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

CA

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

CORTE DELLE GATE

IN MAR DE L’OS

VE

SE ST

FO

O DE L’OGI CALLE

E GAT

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

ASI DR

RI BB I FA DE

GA SAN

CO

1

CAL

I PRET

E NUO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

DE LE

E LL

or

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

E DEI CALL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

RA

LLE CA

ad

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

RO VE N SE SA

lv

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NI LO EI BA C.D CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

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DEL FORNO

O EZ M

FA GIUF

Sa

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

CORTE NUOVA

CORTE

E DE LL CA

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

IA ER EL SS CA

n

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

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IZADA SAL

LE DE CAL

San Lorenzo

FRA

CALLE ERIZZO

A SC TA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

O

LE SAN

ZON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

L IO

O AT USS M

FON

CAL

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

N

LE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

CALLE

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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Venice Magazine

5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Hotel (Urban) – San Moisè, 1459 • F5 Bauer “Il Palazzo” (L) – San Marco, 1413/D • F5 Bauer Palladio Hotel & Spa – Giudecca, 33 • F5 Belmond Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • G6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 Execelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 753 • C6 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 San Clemente Palace Kempisky (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map 4 STAR A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta De Losmarin) • G5 Ai Mori D’oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3

Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del L’ogio) • E3 Nh Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Polo, 3878/A (Corte dell’albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovannelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – San Marco, 848 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5263 (Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 Sina Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 202/A • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 5 STAR DELUXE (L) AND 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro D’abano, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd)

MORE ON WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM/NETWORK 64  W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2016

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

Hotel Due Torri Abano - Via Pietro D’abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti - Piazza Roma, 19 - Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR AND LUXURY RESIDENCES Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Courtyard By Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Hotel Garden Terme – Corso Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) Hotel La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Tritone Terme – Via A. Volta, 31 – Abano Terme (Pd) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve)

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A MAGIC WATER SYMPHONY w w w. a q u a e h o t e l s . i t



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