VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
SEPTEMBER 2019
W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE
Venice in a picture
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ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
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Venice September 2019 10
the guide
INSIDER TIPS
24 SHOPPING
Imperial Emerald, The Merchant of Venice's latest fragrance, is inspired by a fascinating creature.
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
32 DINING
SIGHTSSEING
20
GIFT GUIDE
The Merchant of Venice
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Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
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In addition to boasting a privileged position, the Casa dei Tre Oci hosts several of the most important examples of contemporary photography.
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September is the perfect month to indulge in al fresco meal infused with the flavours of the Lagoon at the new Bistrot del Mare by Cera pop-up restaurant.
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WELCOME TO ITALY ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher will host a series of special events. The full program Where ® of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!
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The city of unexpected encounters Walk through Venice and experience the dialogue between art, past and present. Throughout the Art Biennale, visitors exploring this labyrinthine city of water might suddenly come upon sculptures, works of art, or installations located in the most unlikely areas of the city’s ‘calli’ (streets) and ‘campi’ (squares). In addition to the official sites of the Giardini and Arsenale, the city is enriched with innumerable satellite and collateral exhibitions offering an unusual perspective on art during the event (from 11 May to 24 November). One example is the multi-site exhibition by Bruno Catalano titled ‘The Travellers’, or the monumental sculpture by Jan Fabre on the Grand Canal.
Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com) HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER
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Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)
Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION
MVP Above: “The Man Who Measures the Clouds” by Jan Fabre. On the left: one of Bruno Catalano’s “Travellers” in St. Marks Square.
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Venice’s lifestyle department store
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Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi steps from the Rialto Bridge, Venezia
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Top in town 2
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
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SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10 LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12
pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9
THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 14 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
JUNE SEPTEMBER
HOT DATES © PHOTO OPFOT.COM
Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA
Currently showing at Le Stanze del Vetro on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, the exhibition ‘Thomas Stearns alla Venini’ is dedicated to the American artist’s collaboration with the important Venetian glassworks. At the 1962 Biennale, Venini exhibited six unique pieces by Stearns, from the ‘Doge’s hat’ and ‘Facades of Venice’ series.
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Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA
MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-VENICE
GLASS WEEK
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THE DAZZLING GLASS FESTIVAL
Now in its third consecutive year, ‘The SEPTEMBER Venice Glass Week’ is an international festival dedicated to the art of glass with a particular focus on that of Murano. Numerous key institutions in Venice participate in this highly anticipated celebration, which includes hundreds of city-wide events at galleries, foundries and exhibition spaces in Venice, Mestre and Murano. The ‘glass week’ kicks off officially on Friday 6 September at 6.30pm in Campo Santo Stefano, with the inauguration of the second edition of ‘The Venice Glass Week’ HUB at Palazzo Loredan and Palazzo Franchetti. The Venice Glass Week Various locations in Venice, Murano and Mestre www.theveniceglassweek.com
‘Vase for the Doge’s Tears’ and ‘Façade of Venice’ in cane glass (1961-62), Olnick Spanu Collection, New York–Rob Beyer Collection.
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES EXHIBITION
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▲ The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections’ at Palazzo Ducale treats visitors to a breathtaking sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul
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► Luxury department store T Fondaco dei MAY NOVEMBER Tedeschi presents a site-specific installation involving the entire building, from the courtyard to the fourth floor. The exhibition features images from the archives of famous design atelier Fornasetti, and is created exclusively to interact with the spaces of this magnificent location. Fornasetti’s iconic figures, including female faces, irreverent monkeys and hands slicing through the air, interact with the historic symbols of the historic building hosting it.
The rule of dreams. An art installation by Barnaba Fornasetti and Valeria Manzi. T-Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com/it/venice 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale - Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it
PH © MATTEO DE FINA
FLEMISH TREASURES
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SEPTEMBER
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Hotel Excelsior, Lido di Venezia
Alessandra Mastronardi PH © TANIAVOLOBUEVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
CINEMA
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THE VENICE SILVER SCREEN ◄ Every year, the end of summer coincides with the eagerly-awaited Film Festival, a 10-day extravaganza where the jury assigns the most coveted award, the Golden Lion, plus several others in the different sections competing in the festival. The red carpet, world premieres, international guests, VIP events, and parties train the spotlight on the Lagoon city, which is transformed into a mini Hollywood, with the constant daily arrival of hordes of curious onlookers, paparazzi and journalists.
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Biennale Cinema 2019. 76th Venice International Film Festival Lido di Venezia. www.labiennale.org
ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE SEPTEMBER 28 August-7 September Biennale Cinema 2019 76th International Film Festival 1 September Regata Storica or Historic Regatta A typical rowing competition. 7-15 September The Venice Glass Week An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making. 27 September-6 October Biennale Musica 2019 63rd Festival of Contemporary Music OCTOBER 12 October La Fenice Concerts Season Opening 12-20 October Venice Design Week 17-26 October Venice Fashion Week 19 October Venice Hospitality Challenge 27 October Venice Marathon
NOVEMBER 24 November Teatro La Fenice Opera and Ballet Season Opening with "Don Carlo" by Giuseppe Verdi 21 November Festa della Salute A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up. DECEMBER 17-18 December Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.
FEBRUARY 2020 8-25 February-2020 Carnival of Venice Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas. MAY 2020 23-24 May Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square < to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony
29, 30, 31 December and 1 January 2019 New Year’s Eve Concert 17th edition of the traditional Concert conducted by Myung-Whun Chung at the Teatro La Fenice
31 May Vogalonga 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.
JANUARY 2020 6 January 2020 Regata delle Befane A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro
23 May-29 November Biennale Architettura 2020 “How will we live together?” will be the theme of the 17th International Architecture Exhibition. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS
Venice, an unmissable photo opportunity Venice is one of the most widely photographed places in the world, a real open-air location, inundated daily by thousands of aspiring photographers. Here is a list of the most instagrammable places, plus some lesser-known jewels, and the secrets to capturing them perfectly. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI
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t seems that Venice was created to be photographed. Famous Venetian photographers, like Fulvio Roiter or Gianni Berengo Gardin, who portrayed their city, like no-one else, were aware of this. However, the first ante litteram ‘photographer’ was Canaletto, whose 18th century views of Venice were so accurate that they are still used today as scientific proof of the variation in sea levels over the centuries. The advent of Instagram has made us all feel like professional photographers and Venice has become the favourite photo location of the millions of tourists who visit the city. There’s not a single corner of the city that hasn’t been immortalized. So how can you take an original photograph of Venice without running the risk of taking photos of vistas that are like photocopies, scenes that have been photographed over and over again? Follow our tips and a few simple rules, and you’ll be able to capture views of Venice that though not unique, will at least seem original, allowing you to take home ‘instagrammerworthy’ photographs.
The most classic photos These are iconic views, that you must have in your gallery, or on your Instagram profile. For example, the Baroque Bridge of Sighs, with its melancholy allure, is a notto-be-missed picture postcard. It connects Palazzo Ducale to the Prigioni Nuove and was crossed in bygone days by condemned prisoners on their way to meet their fate. The bridge is located just a short distance from St. Mark’s Square; the best observation point to photograph it is from the Ponte della Paglia, located on the opposite side, and the best time of day to capture it is in the late afternoon, just before sunset, when it’s bathed in a glow of pink hues. Another famous Venetian postcard is the Rialto Bridge. If you want to be a little original, forget the classic selfie on the bridge, and photograph it as a backdrop, from a distance. Stand on one of the quieter wharfs in the area and wait for a gondola or seagull to pass by so that they can be included in the
When to go?
Bridge of Sighs from Ponte della Paglia PH © SERENAROSSI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
If you want to take original photos of Venice home with you, don’t visit Venice on weekends, or during the most famous festivals, including Carnival and the Feast of the Redeemer. The best months are October and November which offer days of splendid sunshine and uniquely clear skies which will give your photos a professional touch. If the day happens to be foggy, don’t despair. Venice is even more magical and mysterious when it’s shrouded in a light haze.
The Grand Canal from the T-Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS terrace
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PH © LOIS GOBE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
foreground. In this case the best light is in the late afternoon. Finally, make sure to include a photo of St. Mark’s square in your photo gallery. If you want an original photo that isn’t crowded with tourists and pigeons, take it at dusk, when the view behind the square is tinged with pastel shades, offering a beautiful backlit effect with the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in the background. However, the best time to capture this magnificent square is probably in the early morning, when it’s deserted. We’re sure you’ll agree that it’s worth getting up at dawn to take an unforgettable photo. This will give you an excuse to indulge in an equally unforgettable breakfast at the historic Cafè Florian, whose interiors alone, dating back to 1700, are well worth a separate photo album (www.caffeflorian.com).
For lovers of views View from Scala Contarini del Bovolo
PH © AGATHA KADAR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
A view from above is always appealing and Venice is jam-packed with panoramic observation points. One of the most picturesque is the terrace of the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DSF, a luxury mall located in the Rialto area. The view from here is spectacular and offers a unique perspective of the city. Entrance is free, but you’ll need to book ahead because the terrace has a limited capacity. You can book online or directly on-site (www.dfs.com). Another unmissable view is from the Bell Tower of San Giorgio Maggiore, located on the island of the same name, facing St. Mark’s Square across the water. It’s almost as high as the bell tower of St. Mark’s, but is only accessible via an elevator. At sunset, it offers a unique view over the skyline of Venice and the Giudecca Canal. The island can be reached via vaporetto line 2 and N, San Giorgio stop. Scala Contarini del Bovolo is another architectural gem, hidden amidst the ‘calli’ near Campo Manin, in the San Marco district. The building, and its magnificent spiral staircase, known as a ‘bovolo’ in Venetian dialect, features a combination of Gothic, Renaissance and Veneto-Byzantine features. You can admire the roofs of the city and take fantastic photos from its domed belvedere. Make sure to capture St. Mark’s bell tower, peeping out from amongst its arches. If you head out before sunrise you will be able to capture magnificent shots of the city waking up, from the Ponte dell’Accademia, which crosses the Grand Canal and connects two important Venetian institutions: the Gallerie dell’Accademia (Accademia Gallery) and the Istituto di Scienze, lettere e arti (Institute of Science, Letters and Arts). As dawn breaks
behind the Church of the Salute and Punta della Dogana, and if you use a wide angle lens, you’ll be able to include the Grand Canal with its palaces in your composition, with the domes of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in the background
Amidst ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘fondamenta’ Venice offers unique views wherever you walk. While strolling through the six ‘sestieri’ (districts) into which Venice is divided, your gaze (and your lenses) will light upon hundreds of unique details, all just waiting to be photographed. For example, washing hanging out to dry in Venice is a truly evocative sight. Lines are strung out across ‘calli’ and courtyards, ‘campi’ and canals and
Acqua Alta is one of the most unique bookstores in the world. The venue in the Sestiere Castello stocks an impressive selection of books including numerous volumes about Venice and its art and its history, as well as hundreds of new and used tomes that are really difficult to find elsewhere.
attached to a wall on the opposite side. And what about gondolas? A popular image shows them parked in the lagoon in St. Mark’s Square, on the Riva degli Schiavoni, with the island of San Giorgio Maggiore in the background. However, if you’re lucky, with your camera at the ready, you can photograph one of them as it glides silently down the Grand Canal. Other highlights include the miniscule alleys passing beneath buildings, like the Sotoportego Zurlin, in campo Ruga, renowned for being the lowest in Venice. Photographers have a field day here, and children love them, because they’re the only ones that they can pass under them without having to crouch down. If you happen to find yourself in the neighbourhood of San Marco, don’t miss the Libreria Acqua Alta. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Burano
PH © STEVANZZ / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
This place will amaze you: books are stacked everywhere, there’s a gondola in middle of the corridor, and old books are used as steps. It’s not surprising that in just a few years it’s become a pilgrimage for bloggers and instagrammers from all over the world (www.facebook.com/libreriaacquaalta). The northern part of Venice, the narrow alleyways around Cannaregio in particular, are perfect backgrounds for unique, tourist-free shots. The view of the Gothic church of Madonna dell’Orto, emerging unexpectedly from the bridge above Rio Ca’ Brazzo is absolutely breathtaking (see page 12). But don’t just photograph it from a distance, walk in and visit it, because the interior houses works by Tintoretto, who lived and is buried here.
Photo hunting on the islands If you’ve got a few hours to spare, don’t miss a visit to the Venetian islands. Burano, Murano, Torcello, La Giudecca and the Lido are renowned for the film festival, their artisanal activities, and authentic atmospheres, and also because they’re real open-air photo locations. Burano ranks first among the Lagoon’s most photographed islands. Known as the ‘rainbow island’, its coloured houses make it a photographer’s haven. With its multi-hued houses reflected in the waters of the canal, its crooked bell tower and the sun setting behind the old fish market, this is one of the most beautiful vistas that opens up in
front of the ‘Tre Ponti’, a wooden bridge that connects three different banks. While all the houses of Burano are photogenic, the house of Bepi Suà is the most photogenic of them all (see page 12). It’s decorated with geometric shapes in rainbow colours and belonged to a particularly creative inhabitant of the island. It’s located behind piazza Galuppi, Burano’s main square, and can be accessed via a narrow street that leads onto a small ‘campiello’ or square. Another Venetian gem is the Casa dei Tre Oci, on the island of Giudecca (see page 38). This public exhibition space has a particular focus on photography, and you can take a memorable photo of Venice from its interior, with a view of the Church of Santa Maria della Salute framed by its mullioned Neo-Gothic windows. People living on the Lido of Venice are used to the flashes of paparazzi, who photograph VIPS attending the annual Film Festival during the ten-day period. However, even throughout the remainder of the year, the views of this remote corner of Venice are picturesque and original. The lighthouse that is situated on the southern side of the Lido’s harbour guides ships along the main access route to the Lagoon, and is highly instagrammable. The red tower, the grey concrete barrier, and the blue sky and the sea, are seen at their best at sunset, making the perfect picture for those who want to take home an original photo of Venice. Other worthwhile shots include the nearby, wild, wind-blown Alberoni beach, and the Malamocco district. The latter, one of the oldest settlements in the Lagoon, situated in the southernmost part of the island, is renowned for its deserted streets, coloured houses and cats lying peacefully in the sun.
Four must-follow Venetian instagrammers In need of inspiration? Take a look at these Venetian instagrammers:Veneziani Lorenzo Cinotti is @Celestalis on Instagram. His photos portray a dream-like Venice, set amidst fog and eerie silences, deserted dawns and sunsets that tinge the canals with pink.
With his photos of canals and the city’s hidden treasures, Settimo Cannatella’s instagram account @seventhsoul takes you on a journey to discover an unconventional Venice.
Architect and photographer Marco Gaggio, alias @neumarc, captures the soul of Venice with urban views, architectural details and panoramic shots.
@psychodreaming: Luca is an influencer who immortalizes his city with creative, inspirational shots.
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WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE
gondola
All about the
8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 − metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized
oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier
– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).
PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from
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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric
elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.
A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE
► THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Inspired by the train of a peacock, this glass bottle contains the ‘Imperial Emerald’ fragrance. Notes of citrus, iris poudré and ylang ylang are combined with a floral bouquet to create a sophisticated fragrance. www.themerchantofvenice.com
Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
◄ TESSITURA BEVILACQUA Upholstered in a sophisticated velvet called ‘Fresie’, this lined cushion has a zipper closure. An expression of superb Venetian craftsmanship. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com
®
▲ NARDI The ‘Moretto’ is an item of jewelry that encapsulates the classical image of Shakespeare’s Othello and the refined goldsmith’s techniques of 18th-century Venice. Dressed in characteristic attire, with a turban, the ‘Moretti’ are embellished by stylistic details. www.nardi-venezia.com
▲ SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER The ‘Rosa Moceniga’ collection draws inspiration from the eponymous flower, an ancient rose variety, that was imported to Europe from China centuries ago, and now grows wild in the Venetian inland. This bracelet features a brilliant cut yellow sapphire set in the centre. www.salvadori-venezia.eu
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► ARMANI A classic, timeless model, perfect for day-to-day outfits or more special occasions. This court shoe comes in suede, with an asymmetric top line, a distinctive detail typical of the brand. www.armani.com
◄ VERSACE Crafted in butter soft calfskin, the new ‘Virtus’ is interpreted in a variety of styles including shopping bags, top handle bags, belt bags, shoulder bags and evening clutches. www.versace.com
T H EM E R CH A N T OF VE N I CE . CO M
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s
Bassano del Grappa
Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2019
A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa: rebuilt many times but always remaining faithful to Palladio’s 16th century original. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Verona
University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.
TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com
Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in
December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23
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An emerald essence The Merchant of Venice’s journey along the ancient routes traversed by Venetian merchants continues. This time, the brand’s new fragrance is inspired by a fascinating creature. By Chiara Zaccarelli
A
kaleidoscope of colours, featuring nuances of blue and emerald green. The peacock, one of the most bewitching and elegant creatures of all time, with its massive tail and iridescent colours, has long fascinated its human observers. From the East to the West, this is a bird that is a symbol that has always been subject to various interpretations: beauty, longevity and love, but also vanity, luxury and pride. Imperial Emerald, the new fragrance by The Merchant of Venice is inspired by this mysterious bird, and is the latest addition to the Murano Exclusive Collection, which represents an ideal combination of sublime Venetian
craftsmanship, and the most sought-after fragrances, created by expert perfumers. This new fragrant masterpiece pays tribute to the elegance and treasures of Venice, reflected in its sophisticated scent and high concentration of essential oils which generate an intense, long-lasting fragrance. Joyful top notes of citrus infuse the fragrance with a delicate vibration, and are accompanied by notes of iris poudré and pink pepper in an exhilarating crescendo. Its rich heart comprises Ylang ylang and opulent Chile Rose Absolute, enhanced with a bouquet of lily of the valley, night-blooming jasmine, tuber rose and orange blossom. Its base notes
An evocative fragrance inspired by the colours and allure of the peacock
24 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
comprise seductive accents of white amber and precious benzoin, while creamy vanilla and an enveloping musk accompany innovative patchouli. The Merchant of Venice originated as a cultural project and offers a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, plus body and homecare products, and accessories, inspired by the exquisite essences and spices that the Venetians imported via the ‘Mude’ (the naval routes) that connected the Far East to Africa, Europe and the North sea. >> www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin) / Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca).
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
The
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.
Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).
Blending art and fashion Located inside a historic palazzo overlooking one of Venice’s most romantic canals, just steps from St. Mark’s square, the Pot-Pourrì boutique is an enchanted treasure trove where shoppers come simply to browse, and then leave wearing a totally new look. This dream-like space, which can be directly accessed from the canal via a gondola or water taxi, includes a women’s boutique, a men’s boutique and a space dedicated to lifestyle and homeware that reflect the love of colour and sophisticated creativity of its owner Marina and her daughters. In addition to offering a selection of the best brands of Italian and foreign clothing and accessories, Pot-Pourrì has developed its own collection of artisanal, Made in Italy items that includes outerwear, trousers, knitwear and accessories. Must-haves featured in Pot-Pourri’s summer collection include items of clothing for women embellished with brushstrokes resembling those applied by a painter to his canvas. A perfect look design to amaze and inspire. www.potpourri.it Palazzo Regina Vittoria. San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri). T: 041 2410990. Map E4
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS— Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com. Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5
From the BORSALINO collection inspired by La Dolce Vita, this ‘Audrey Parasisol Papollon’ celebrates the aesthetic codes of the Italian lifestyle with unmistakable elegance.
MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4
MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5
TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5
MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5
TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
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CAL LE R IO LE D 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 maps by 18th ND TER E L Vand views of Venice and engravings À BA O LT IS O RBA FRU RAMO (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30amTA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. DE ORO Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 R alleria Internazionale and antiques, the mission of this VALMARANA A D highly qualified DEL PESTRIN CA A Ca’ Nova LL C O RT E or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 San Lazzaro E NO d'Arte Moderna VA antique dealer is to keep the interest in B ATA G I A R VA IS Ca’ D’Oro Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' CO CORTE dei Mendicanti authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua STELLA Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the Artisanal weavers specializing in the production several of Venice’s most elegant homes with Santi Apostoli city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus ofCAMPIELLO exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings WIDMANN its upholstery fabrics.CAMPIELLO Wallpaper, curtains, CAL TI OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th R IE ZI L ITIP and curtains. PASSION A unique place! tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale Since 1875, the company has practiced the SS. art Giovann Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9amCAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N C landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. SAN CANCIANO N D R IO A L L E of weaving original looms that once belonged L E on Luterana 12.30pm. www.canovatessutitendaggi.com. WIDMA SCU O L E Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. LL to the VenetianE School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri CA San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). CAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 S.MARIA NOVA 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 CAMPO DELLA CAL LE San Cassiano (Rialto stop). Map F4 LAR PESCARIA GA www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. (Rialto stop). Map E4DA SAN CANZIAN G. G ALL ZA IN A LI SA Santa Maria RI T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio CAMPO Antichità San Samuele O DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA Le Zoie I M dei Miracoli stop). Map D3 An antiques dealer since the Seventies, IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo CA C A LL Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused withACOL LL E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research I L FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI LL A’ personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shopC A L L E C A S T ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San EL ELL TI DELLA I A BO showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with CAMPO CA LL E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa dell’Ospe also specializes in collections that are unlikely to ER BE a particular focus on sculptures dating from the CA CORTE SECONDA DE M be found elsewhere, including L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION objects inspired CARAMPANE SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 13th through L NS O BA RB AR ON Al Duca d'Aosta di3130 Rialtoby ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction IA DE LE DE I TO 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, LE CA Casa di RA Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat MP O CAMPO (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto AN CAMPIELLO E RIALTO 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the SOL Samuele stop). Map E4 Fontego Marco Polo NUOVO line 2DEL (San Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. dei Tedeschi O N VA CA RA Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey C. D Antichità Zanutto LE3 Vaporetto LE Sant’Aponal EL E L F line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map D D C E A .M A ONT LP ET EGO RT IN IO M B O Venice location features over 100 top fashion EN ContinuingRUGaH longstanding family tradition, Ponte GO D. P SA CAL N G FO LE G ALL S di Rialto CORTE Libreria Antiquaria LineaIA Zd’Acqua E brands for men and AL CAMPO N CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE women, carefully selected ZO IZZ AN ME DO in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San TREVISAN CAMPO DEL NI NT AD ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO LA A A LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE Pbooks Antique and priceless prints focusing IO RA to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These DE Marco to open his workshop specializing in CAMPO NO X E LL A SAN LIO C Rialto primarily on preservation and authentic include casualCAMPIELLO men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, antique paintings, with Silvestro a particular focus on PIELLO San CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI IZ bookbinding methods. DE FORMOSA PASSION TIPA D A S A sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and Venetian FONDAMENTA SANartists. SILVESTRO Also offers evaluations and C. D LONI N L EL G IO DEI PRETI illustrated books, ZZO women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat Fontego 10.30am- CALLE Specializes in 18thALIAcentury Santa Maria
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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
28 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON
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SHOPPING of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Map F4
further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
Pot-Pourrì
Palmanova Outlet Village
Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).
Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year
around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and
The perfume of Venice The Merchant of Venice origins are closely connected to Venice and its history. More than just a brand, it’s a cultural project whose aim is to highlight the key role played by the city in the art of perfumery worldwide. Around the time of the first Renaissance, Venice became the most important centre of perfume making in the world, thanks to the spices, gemstones and essential oils that Venetian merchants imported from the Far East and brought to the ports of the Mediterranean during their voyages. If you’re visiting the Serenissima, be sure to drop in at the fragrant boutiques of The Merchant of Venice. These include the brand’s iconic flagship store in Campo San Fantin and the old Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro. Here, in addition to a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, body and homecare products, and accessories, you’ll find Imperial Emerald, the brand’s latest, scented masterpiece inspired by the iridescent colours and legendary allure of the peacock. The latest addition to the Murano Exclusive Collection, this new fragrance pays tribute to the treasures and elegance of Venice, reflected in its sophisticated scent and high concentration of essential oils. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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SHOPPING Damiani A reference point in the world of highend jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as
the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlycoloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany. it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4
Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com
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Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4
Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4
Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neoGothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
DINING
Cuisine worthy of a Golden Lion September is the perfect month to indulge in al fresco meal infused with the flavours of the Lagoon at the Tropicana Terrace Bistrot del Mare by Cera pop-up restaurant. By Giulia Minero
A
t the Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido Resort, a favourite haunt of the international jet-set especially during the Venice Film Festival, summer brings an abundance of delicious novelties, including the opening of the exclusive Tropicana Terrace Bistrot del Mare by Cera pop-up restaurant, the latest addition to the hotel’s gastronomic scene which includes the Ristorante Tropicana and the Elimar Beach bar and restaurant. Hosted on the hotel’s Terrazza Tropicana, overlooking the sea, the Bistrot del Mare by Cera boasts an innovative menu curated by Lionello Cera, the Veneto chef of two Michelin star ‘Antica Osteria Cera’ in Campagna Lupia. Standouts on a menu designed to showcase the best of local gastronomy include fish specialties, a selection of meat dishes, plus the great 32 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
classics of Venetian tradition re-interpreted in a contemporary key. Expect ‘Gò Fish and Lemon Risotto’, ‘Bigoli al torchio with a Sarde in Saor sauce’, raw fish dishes like ‘Nature di Orata’, ‘Steamed Seabass served with a Lemon Sauce and Potatoes’, and meat dishes prepared using the best local organic cuts. For those who want to treat themselves to a sea-view aperitivo, the chef offers a selection of cicchetti (typical Venetian finger food), that can be paired with a cocktail, like an Excelsior Spritz, prepared by Blue Bar Manager Tony Micelotta. >> Tropicana Terrace Bistrot del Mare by Cera c/o Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido Resort Lungomare Marconi, 41 (Lido di Venezia) www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com Lionello Cera and his wife Simonetta Semenzato
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE
Al Giardinetto da Severino
Antica Carbonera
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
It’s called “Vecio”, but it’s new
High-quality cuisine requires the finest, seasonal ingredients. For this reason, every day, Irina Freguia, the owner and brainchild of Vecio Fritolin, heads to the Rialto market to source the freshest meat, fish and vegetables. Formerly an old-style ‘bacaro’, or small unassuming tavern, where guests could savour a snack and a glass of wine, Vecio Fritolin has held pride of place in Santa Croce since the 18th century. Although it has now been transformed into a restaurant, it has lost none of the old-school charm that makes it one of the most pleasant places in Venice for a special occasion meal. The kitchen is manned by two chefs: Pierluigi Lovisa, boasting 40 years of experience in the business, is the ‘director’ of this historic locale, featured in guides worldwide, while Raffaele Minute, the young, creative soul of the restaurant, is more oriented towards experimentation, upgrading desserts, hors d’oeuvres and several other dishes served at the restaurant with a contemporary twist. Santa Croce, 2262 (Calle della Regina). T: 041 5222881. www.veciofritolin.it
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DINING
DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Pignolo
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fi sh-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
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€€€. hand www.lacalcina.com. Hotel Calcina.in The of owner Eligioc/o Paties, is La apparent Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. line 2traditional or 5.1 (Zattere stop). MapisE6 The Venetian menu accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than La Conca d’Oro 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out Da Fiore some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top(restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s stop). Map F4 most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of La Porta d’Acqua carefully selected seasonal ingredients have Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on is housed in a 15th century building and decorated Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan stop). Map E3 cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. Gran Canal €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, you 1022/b Terà Silvestro). T: 041of 2412124. Here can(Rio taste theSan typical specialties Vaporettotradition, 1 (San Silvestro stop). E4expression Venetian featuring theMap purest of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus Lineadombra is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o (Salute stop). Map E5 Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Locanda Cipriani stop). Mapwho F5 want to be close to Venice, For those yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani
Harry’s Bar is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a
Founded the 1930s, this legendary bar is simple yetinevocative atmosphere, it is popular renowned for its Bellini gourmets cocktails (originally among knowledgeable as a fantastic invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it Lineadombra
has beenon renovated with great charm, Perched the last bridge of the mostexuding beautiful an understated elegance with beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect country and fresh where flowers. €€€. www. spot for antiques a romantic dinner you can enjoy all locandacipriani.com. Santa Fosca 29 €€€. the typical flavours ofPiazza the Venetian lagoon. (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. from Nove direction Burano, stop) then T: 041Fondamente 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere take the 9 line). Off MapE5 or 1 (Salute stop). Map
Taverna al Do Remer Trattoria Forni
Located near to the Rialtohas Bridge, this romantic The owner Eligio Paties managed to make ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its destination, open-brick this restaurant a sought-after decor, which lends an intimate, informal touch. distinguished by itsit wide assortment of Venetian Although thetomenu featuresofsimple, traditional fare, thanks the quality the dishes and a dishes, it sense often surprises diners with unusual genuine of typically Venetian hospitality. pairings. Closed onwill Wednesdays. www. The dining spaces remind you€€€. of the alremer.it.of Cannaregio, 5701.“Orient T. 041 5228789. carriages the legendary Express” Vaporetto line 1 to (Ca’ d’Oro stop). and pay tribute the history of Venice. €€€. Map F3 www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line Trattoria Do Forni 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, Wildner distinguished byFullin its wide assortment Opened by the family in 1960, itofisVenetian fare, thanksby to locals the quality of the dishes patronized and tourists alike. and Its a genuine sense ofatmosphere typically Venetian hospitality. tranquil, relaxed is further enhanced Thea dining spacesview will over remind of the carriages by spectacular theyou Basin of St. of the legendary andand payserves tribute Mark’s. Its menu “Orient is mainlyExpress” fish-based to the history of Venice. €€€.including www.doforni.it. San classic Venetian specialties ‘Baccalà Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 on 5232148. Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed Vaporetto €€€. line 1c/o or Pensione 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 Tuesdays. Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Wildner or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Dal Mas and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Located a few minutes from the‘Sarde railway includingjust ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and in Saor’. station, thisTuesdays. pastry shop a triumph of Closed on €€€.offers c/o Pensione Wildner. traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 to try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan Map G4dei Dogi’ and or croissants, 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3
PASTRY SHOPS
Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San La Conca d’Oro Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Since that time, this Venetian institution has www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), been turning out some of the best pizza in T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www. The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Italiane specialties traditional Venetian dishes. T: 041www.kempinski.com/it/venice 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Filippo Giacomo). T:and 041 5229293. Vaporetto Map F4 lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.
Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space.
Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Oro
Quadri
Met
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,
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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4
Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Glam
Dopolavoro
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Venissa
Il Ridotto
Osteria da Fiore
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The house of photography In addition to boasting a privileged position, with a view over the Basin of San Marco, the Casa dei Tre Oci hosts several of the most important examples of contemporary photography. By Giulia Minero
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with some of its original furnishings – are primarily used to host prestigious photographic exhibitions. The gallery will pay tribute to the photographic work of Ferdinando Scianna, the first Italian reporter to become a member of the prestigious Magnum photographic agency, with an exhibition titled ‘Viaggio Racconto Memoria’, until 2 February 2020. This anthological exhibition traces more than 50 years of the Sicilian photographer’s career through 180 black and white photos, divided into three sections: Journey, Story, Memory, and is showcased alongside a series of fashion images shot in Venice, testifying to Scianna’s relationship with the Lagoon city.
>> Ferdinando Scianna. Viaggio Racconto Memoria. 31 August 2019-2 February 2020 Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43. Isola della Giudecca, Venezia. www.treoci.org
MARPESSA. CALTAGIRONE, 1987. © FERDINANDO SCIANNA
T
he Casa dei Tre Oci is worth a mention in its own right. Located on the Island of Giudecca, with a view over the Lagoon, this art gallery is a magnificent example of early 20th century Neo-Gothic Venetian architecture designed by artist Mario De Maria in 1913 as a house and studio. A place of artistic and cultural production for many years, and a meeting space for artists participating in the Biennale until the 1980s, the Casa dei Tre Oci became a contemporary public art gallery, with a particular focus on photography, in 2012, following an in-depth restoration. In addition to housing works from the photographic collection of the Fondazione di Venezia, its rooms – still decorated
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE
www.teatrolafenice.it
Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www.canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande. it, or ask your concierge.
■ OPERA 1, 3, 6, 12, 19 September TOSCA by Giacomo Puccini Daniele Rustioni and Marco Paladin (6 and 19 September), conductors Serena Sinigalia, director Maria Spazzi, sets Federica Ponissi, costumes
13, 14, 18, 22, 24 September at Malibran Theater LE MIE TRADITRICI by Salvatore Sciarrino Tito Ceccherini, conductor Valentino Villa, director Massimo Checchetto, sets Carlos Tieppo, costumes
4, 8, 10, 15, 21, 25 September and 3, 5 October MADAMA BUTTERFLY by Giacomo Puccini Daniele Callegari, conductor Àlex Rigola replicated by Cecilia Ligorio, director Mariko Mori, sets & costumes Albert Faura, light designer
20, 26, 28 September and 2, 8 October LA SCALA DI SETA by Gioachino Rossini Alvise Casellati, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Accademia di Belle Arti of Venice, sets & costumes
5, 7, 11, 22, 24, 27, 29 September IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA by Gioachino Rossini Francesco Ivan Ciampa and Marco Paladin (27 and 29 September), conductors Bepi Morassi, director Lauro Crisman, sets & costumes Vilmo Furlan, light designer
■ CHAMBER MUSIC MUSIKÁMERA 28, 29 September at Sale Apollinee QUARTETTO ADORNO Music by Ludwig van Beethoven Edoardo Zosi, violin Liù Pelliciari, violin Benedetta Bucci, viola Danilo Squitieri, cello
The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com
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Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center
of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)
Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing)
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo Dorsoduro
Giudecca
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
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Castello
San Marco
The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari.
| SIGHTSEEING
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Artistic Glass in Murano
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CALLE DEL DOSE
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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
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San Francesco di Paola BALD
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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
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LIDO Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
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Hotel Excelsior Venice
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S. Antonio Di Padova
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CALLE
CALLE
C. ROSA LARGA
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CALLE
CORTE
MASENA LA DE
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TREVISAN
CALLE
DE
CATERINA
L’ABAZIA Miserico
CAMPO
SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
A
Canale
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RACHETA
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REGINA
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CALLE
DE CALLE
CAPITELO DEL
ETTI,
TI,
FA R S
ET RS FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
MEGIO DEL
STAE
FORNO
SAN
DEL CALLE
SALIZADA GRUE LE
CARMINATI
FONDAMENTA
LA DE
CALLE
STUA DE
LA
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’ RIO
FONDAMENTA
DEL
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
ORBI DEI
CALLE
LE DE
CALLE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA
GARI
EPPE
CALLE
IUS VIA G
VA
SALUTE
Punta della Dogana
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
DA PONTE
FONDAME
GRIMANI
CALLE
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
DOGE
LA TANA
CALLE
DEL
RAMO DE
NUOVA
CALLE
de le
CALLE TERCO
TANA
DEI PRETI
VENIER
DE LA
COLTRERA
SEBASTIANO
CAMPO
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CALLE
BRAGADIN
VIDA
DEI FORNI
Arsenale
100 m
CALLE
PISCINA
LE
CALLE FRIZIER
SANT'AGNESE
ENA
C. LOREDANA
BRAGADIN
ARS
ALE
CALLE
PISCINA
E N TA
TA A R SEN
CROSERA
FONDAMENTA
LA
FONDAMENTA
AMEN
CALLE
FORNACE
SALONI
INCURABILI
DE
FOND
CASTELLO
TERRÀ
CALLE
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
DI
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
DEI
PIETRO
DEI CORTELLOTTI
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
SAN
CALLE
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
San Martino
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
MOROSINA
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
CALLE
Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
ROTONDA
DE
GRITTI CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
TA
COSMO
ACCADEMIA
CALLE
CROSERA
RI
Palazzo Genovese
Giudecca Palanca EN
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
MARTIN
PISCINA
PIGNATER
C. VOLTO
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
RIO
DE
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
MUNEGHE
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE
DE CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO CALLE
CALLE
SANTA TA
QUERIN,
CALLE
PESARO
LUCIA PICCOLO
FONDAMEN
SIMON SAN
zera
Scomen
FONDAMENTA
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE
F. CONDULMER
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CERERIA LA
ROCCO
DE C.
SAN
ALBANESI
LIPOLI
DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
LARGA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
DORSODURO
CALLE
SESTIERE FOSCARI
I
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
O
TRONCHETT
DEL NOVA ISOLA
De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO PORTO
ima
DIREZIONE
Maritt ne
MAGAZZIN
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
SAN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
DEL PIOVAN
O
DE
SALIZADA
SCHIAVONI
DEGLI
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
AM
ANTONIN
S C H I AV
BASTION
LARGA
ND
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
SCUDI
CALLE
FO
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
R I VA D EGLI
CALLE DELA CREA
FO
Sant'Eufemia
CALLE
CORTE DELLE GATE
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
Spirito Santo
BIAGIO
CONVERTITE
CALLE
LE VIGNOLE
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE SACCA
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
DEL
VERONA
SAN
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
DEGLI
LA
MINELLI
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
A
SALIZADA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
San Giorgio dei Greci
SCHIA
CALLE
AI
DEI PRETI
San Zaccaria
VIN CALLE DEL
DE
Palazzo
C.
CALLE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
RC
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
VERONA
Rio Del
o Stazio
CALLE
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
DELL’OROLOGIO
LA
DIETRO
San Lorenzo CAMPO SAN LORENZO
ZORZI
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
ZATTERE
FONDAMENT
LAVRANERI
VI
VI
A
CO
A
DE
LE
TT
A
I R E
DE
L
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TA VIA
M
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DI
NI
GIOVANNI PIVIDOR
I
VI
A
M
AL
AM
OC
CO
VI
ISOLA POVEGLIA
ALVISOPOLI
VI
A
M
AL
AM
OC
CO
VIA
VIA
FERRUCCI PARRI
A
M
AL
AM
O
CC
O
O
VI
CALLE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
DEI
DE
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
C.
DEI
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
CALLE
TERÀ
DEI PUTI
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
SAN
GATE
SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
DRASI
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CALLE
ZON
DE LE
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
enzera
CALLE
CALLE
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
A N M
LATERANO
SEVERO
REDIVO
SA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
CORTE NOVA
RUGA
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
MEZO
DE CALLE
SAN
CORTE
NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
RIVA
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
DEL
SAN
SAN
CORTE TREVISAN
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE
LARGA
CALLE
RC
DEL CAFETIER
CALLE ERIZZO
LIO
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
Museo Correr
CALLE
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
CALLE
DEL FORNO
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
SALIZADA
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
BIAGIO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
BARBARIA
FONDAMENTA
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
Rio San Lorenzo
FABBRI
San Moisè
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
NTA
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
DEI
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
CALLE
Salvador
CALLE
CORNER
DEL
San
CALLE
CALLE
Rio
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
SAN
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
PIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’ XXII MARZO
CORTE BAROZZI
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
GALLO
Bacino Orseolo
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
MOISE’
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
PIOMBO
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
C. LARGA
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
LIO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione SALIZADA
BEMBO
SA
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PONTE
SACCA SAN
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
ORBI
SAN
DELLE
SAN
DEL
CALLE
D. PALLE
GIAZZO
CAMPO SAN LIO SALIZADA
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
PISCINA
CALLE
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
MAGAZEN
FRUTARIOL
CALLE
LARGA
CASTELLI
DEI
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
CALLE
DOLERA
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
REMER
CALLE
CALLE
DEI
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
WIDMANN
RIO
O DEL
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
DEL
CINQUE
C.
CORTE MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CALLE DEL BASTION
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
Teatro Malibran
FONDAME
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
COCCO
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
TOSCANA
Santa Maria del Giglio
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
CHIESA
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
LUCA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
BERLENDIS
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
CALLE
DE
DONZELA
SAN
DELLA
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
SAN
CALLE
DE
NOVE
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLO
LA
TODESCHI
SPIRITO
CALLE
DE
C. DEI
CALLE
CALLE
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
ALLO
MAZZINI
CORTE
TEATRO
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
Teatro la Fenice
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
ZATTERE
DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
CALLE
CALLE
San Maurizio
FALIER
San Vidal
C.SANT'AGNESE
FONDAMENTA
TEATRO
CALLE
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
BOTERI
VARISCO
SESTIERE
C.
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Palazzo Loredan
Accademia
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
AI GESUATI
Giudecca Hilton
PIO
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
FONTEGO
SALIZZADA
Rialto
CALLE
SAN CALLE CALLE
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAL
RAMO
S.Canciano
SAN CANZIAN
SALIZADA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
VOLTI
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
San Silvestro
DEL
DEL
CALLE
CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CALLE
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Santo Stefano
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
BOTEGHE
CATENE
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CATERINA
PRIULI
ORESI
RUGHETA
PERDON
de r an
NARISI
DEL
PISCINA
CROSERA
LE
CALLE
SANTA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
NOVA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
RAVANO
DEL
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
FOND.
DE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
ZATTERE
Zattere
NOVE
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
Santa Sofia
STRADA
DEI
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
SAN
CROSERA
S. Samuele
NANI
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
IA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
MUTI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
DEL
DEL
CALLE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR
CALLE
LONGO
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
TRAPOLIN
STUA
PARANGON
CALLE
Bacin
O
LA
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The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
ROSINA DELLA STRADA
ISOLA
MESTRE
Museo Di Torcello
Chiesa di Santa Fosca 100 m
C A M PA LT O
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Scuola Grande di San Rocco
TORCELLO
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MAZZORBETTO
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Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Canal
Teatro La Fenice
VAPORETTO
Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).
true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard. As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects,
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Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
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One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www. basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
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Santi Giovanni e Paolo
FONDAMENTA DI SANTA CATERINA
T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
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FAUSTA
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo
Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing
and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former
Advertorial
A fabulous day in the Dolomites Your day trip starts in Venice, where you’ll meet your guide to begin your journey. The first stop is Lake Misurina, where crystal-clear waters reflect the surrounding mountains to perfection. The main highlights of this experience include the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Peaks of Lavaredo), considered iconic symbols of the Dolomites, and the town of Cortina, renowned throughout the world for its beauty and skiing. The tour, which includes transportation by van, an expert guide and lunch, offers participants a chance to relax and admire one of the most beautiful places in Northern Italy. This tour was created by Veronality, a tour operator based in Venice and Verona which, since 2014, has offered different types of activities and experiences for tourists from all over the world. A hallmark feature is the team of passionate, experienced local guides who accompany groups, delivering a seamless, authentic experience. For more information visit www.veronality.com
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.
Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
| SIGHTSEEING
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century
collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it
SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.
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PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
I
talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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Japan Pavilion
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United States Pavilion
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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
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L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
DEL PIOVAN
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
AM
DE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
ND
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
S C H I AV
BASTION
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
FO
COSMO
ANTONIN
DE
ZATTERE
FO
Sant'Eufemia
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
R I VA D EGLI S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SCUDI
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
100 m
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
DEL
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TERRÀ
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
DEGLI
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
VERONA
RIO
CALLE
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
C.
LA
MINELLI
PISCINA
DEL NOVA ISOLA
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
Scomenze
MARITTIMO
Canale
De
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
O
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DE
San Gregorio
CALLE
DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
ZORZI
DRASI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DE LE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CALLE
DEI
DEI
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RC
SALIZADA
C.
LATERANO
SEVERO
a
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
DEL
PISCINA
VERONA
A N M
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SA
MEZO
DE CALLE
RUGA
DIREZIONE
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE
NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
Palazzo Ducale
LO
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
DEL
SAN
O
SCHIAVONI
DEGLI
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE
LARGA
CALLE
RC
CALLE ERIZZO
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
MO
RIVA
Rio San Lorenzo
CALLE
DEL FORNO
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
G. GALLINA
DEL
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
Museo Correr
FONDAMENTA
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
PIA
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
SAN
FABBRI
LARGA
LARGA
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
SALIZADA
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
ORBI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
BERLENDIS
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
DEI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
DEL
San
CALLE
Rio
LA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
NOVE
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
CALLE
BEMBO
CALLE
DE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
SAN
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
DEI
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
Ca' Giustinian
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
RIO
GIAZZO
CAMPO
SALIZADA
SAN
DELLE
CARRO
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAL RAMO
S.Canciano
CALLE
SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
DEL
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
REMER
CALLE
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
MAGAZZINI
VOLTI
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
MAGAZEN
FRUTARIOL
CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
O DEL
CINQUE
RIO
CALLE
AI
DEI
C.
DEL
FREZZERIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
COCCO
TOSCANA
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
DE
MOISE’
CALLE
DE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
LUCA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
RI
Palazzo Genovese
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE
Stazione
ORESI
MADONA
SAN
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
MAZZINI
San Salvador
TEATRO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
TEATRO
CALLE
CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
DEL
DELLA
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
SAN CALLE
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
FABBRICHE
CALLE
DOLERA
SPIRITO
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
LE
CALLE
zera
CATERINA
CALLE
GALIZZI
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
ALLO
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
SANTA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
Giudecca Hilton
CATENE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
ZATTERE
VAPORETTO
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
NARISI
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
AI GESUATI
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
STURION
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LE
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
ZATTERE
DEL
LA
CAMPO DE LA
DEL SOL
DEL
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
C.
FOND.
SAN
CROSERA
San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE
VENDRAMIN
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
CALLE
CALLE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal PERDON
CALLE
de r an
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
LA
CARAMPANE
DEL
DEL
FONDAMENTA BONLINI
LE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
DE
DE
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
CA'
DEL
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
SESTIERE
S.
CARROZZE
al G
Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
TRAGHETTO
DE
O
San Felice
TIOZZI
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Can
DEL
FOND.
PONTE
IC
CALLE
DEI
DE
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
Accademia
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
ER
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE RAMO
CALLE
S. Samuele
FALIER
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
IS
TRAPOLIN
DE
Santa Fosca
S.Stae
DE
SCALETER
Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
M
FONDAMENTA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
DEL
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
TA
NA
La Maddalena
CALLE
TENTOR
BOLDO
C.
EN
TRON
DEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
SAN
AM
SOTOPORTEGO
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DIETRO
C.
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CALLE BERNARDO
D
MORETTI
DE
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CROSERA
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
N
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CALLE
Ca' Rezzonico
FONDAMENTA
Madonna
MORI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALLE
Rio Nuovo
TABACCHI
PRETI
San Barnaba
NA
CALLE
SAN
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DEI
L’ASEO
CA
DONZELA
NUOVA
TINTORETTO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
LE
ALE
LA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
NIE
DD
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
RENIER
FOMO
.DA
MA
SAN BOLDO
CALLE
CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
LA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
San Pantalon
CALLE
CALLE
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
DE OGNISANTI
DEI
FO
À D E
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
NUOVO
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
Misericordia
FO de Servi N
TER
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
TINTOR
CALLE
DE
DE LA VIDA
DEL
Bacino
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE
Scomen
RIO
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
Canale
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
della
Rio
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
DEI
LUNA
RAMO
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
Rio
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
BARI
CAMPO
CANAL CORTE
LA
DEI AMAI
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
IA
CALLE
C.
BESAGIO
RD
R
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
BIASIO
DI
RIVA
LISTA
FONDAMENTA
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
MINOTTO
Magazen
SAN
Rio
SAN
NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI
Giardino di Palazzo
NUOVE
San Nicola da Tolentino
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano SALIZADA
San Simeone Profeta
NUOVA
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
LARGA
PONTE CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
C.
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
ICO
RIO
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CALLE
CASE
CALLE
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
VECCHIO
TRONCHETTO
SPAGNA
TERÀ
FONDAMENTA
Ferrovia
LUNGA
PROCURATIE
DEI
CALLE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE
FONDAMENTA
Rio
PENSIERI
DE L’OGIO
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
MIS
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
DI LISTA RIO
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
CROCE
C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN MICHELE
DELL'ORTO
TA
E DEL PISTO
STRADA
LA
TERÀ
TERÀ
MADONA
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
CALL
San Leonardo
San Geremia
DE
RIO
LA
AM
I
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
LER
NA
CROCE
CALLE
NICOLO’
NS
Rio
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
CAVALLETTI
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
SCALZI
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
FO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
EN
CANNAREGIO
SE
AI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
AM
San Girolamo
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
A E M
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa FO
PU
SAVORGNAN
FONDAMENTA
CA
DEL
LE
O
CALLE
DE
AM
MATTIA
TA
OL
SAN
EN
LL
NOVA DEL
AM
N G IR
CA
ISOLA
People Mover Venezia
ND
SA
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA
L’ARCO
TA
LLO
CALLE
FO
EN
TE
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
DOGE
AM
B AT
CALLE
ND
TA
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
FORNER
EN
SEBASTIANO
DEL
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
BRAGADIN
CALLE
ND
della
COLETTI
FO
Canale
GIOBBE
CAMPO SAFFA
DE
Rio
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
SAN
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
VENIER FONDAMENTA
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
DEL SABION
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
VECCHIA
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
RUGA
Parco
B
SANT'AGNESE
LI
BRAGADIN
LA
PISCINA
EL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
INCURABILI
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
P
O
N
A
SA
TA
M
IA
ET
TA
RIA
ISA
A
S
M
IR
N
O
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IZ
ZO
C A AN
VI
FR
C
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C
O
D
U
O
D
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SC
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IN
A
FR
AN
C
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OL
A
FR
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C
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D
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O
D
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NO
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DAN
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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
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12 THE GHETTO
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CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4
Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4
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Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice VENIC Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – E CITY GUIDE Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Venice a pictu in Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) re Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)
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