Where Florence n 28 October 2020

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

OCTOBER 2020

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AUTUMN TIPS ON LUXURY SHOPPING, DINING AND SIGHTSEEING HOW TO ENJOY YOUR WINE TASTING IN ITALY

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Florence October 2020 V IA

the guide

S E

14

S T

WINE EXPERIENCE

E

CASTELLO

S

DE

IP A

ZZ

I

E

SO H

SE

IN I

CC

RA

O AN ET GA

NI

UG

HI

UC CI

MO

NT

CA PP

DI

DE I

V IA

VIA

IA

SA

AS

M

O

LM

L IE

G

U

G

V IA

CI

A

AR

SI

LI

E ST IE TR

CA

A

EC

VI VI

O LL GA N SA

VO

V IA

CA

C AT

VI

A

S. VI

A A

UR

O LL

VO

GA

CA

N SA

A P IR A LO

SA

N

SA

G AL

N TA

RE

PA

RA

TA

G .L

N TA

MO

V.

V IA

LI

N EL

DE

A

A

Giardin dei Semp

PIAZZA SAN MARCO

VI

A

VI

I

I V D

E

RI

I

CA

I

V

VI

IA

A

Centro Lingustico Rotonda del Brunelleschi O

CI

AC

PIAZZA FILIPPO BRUNELLESCHI

DE

L

C

Università degli Studi di Firenze

E

I

CA

S

SO

E

LI

R

V

I

VIA

IA V

Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore

Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

Orator Santom D'aqu

DE

VIA DEL PROCONSOLO

BAR DI

Chiesa San Felicita

VI

A

D

LU

E

B

AR

D

NG

AR

NO

TO

I

RR

IGI

O

S TA S C A

RP

Palazzo Pitti

UC

CI

A

I

PIAZZ

I

SANTA C

D EI

BE

Anfiteatro Romano di Firenze

A VI

VIA

Teatro Verdi Santi

Chiesa Evangelica Metodista

DE I NE RI

BO

SAN RG O

OC TA CR

E

CO

RS

A.

BE NC

I

VIA

AR NO

PIAZZA DI SANTA MARIA SOPR'ARNO

ID

e Giuda VSimone IA TO

DE RTA LL 'AN GU ILL AR A

NC

I

DE I RU ST IC I

CI

San Remigio VIA

B E N TA C C O V. RD

V.d . MA GA LLO TT I

GRE

VIA DEI SAPO VIA DEI VAGELLAI NAI PIAZZA DEI GIUDICI PIAZZA VIA V. MALEN LUN GAR CHINI, MENTANA NO GEN ERA LE DIAZ V.

VIA

COR NO

VIN EG IA

DE I NE RI

MO SC A

A

ELL

VIA

VIA

DEI

DE LL E BR AC HE

VIA

NIN NA

PIAZZA DEL GRANO

GO

VIA

DE L LE ON E

DEL LA

VIA

VIA

Uffizi

VIA

VIA LU GIR OLA NG MI AR NO AR CH IBU SIE RI

BOR

d.

PIAZ ZAL E DEG LI UFF IZI

Santo Stefano al Ponte

PIAZZA DEL PESCE

EG

P. SA PIE MAGG

VIA DEI PANDOLFINI

V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA DELL 'ANG UILLA RA VIA

Complesso di San Firenze

Palazzo Vecchio

VI A D EI BARBADORI

PIAZZA I SANTA FELICITA DIN IAR ICC ' GU DE

Palazzo Gondi

T'

ALBIZI

VIA VIGNA VECCHIA

GU AN TO

Loggia dei Lanzi

DEGLI

N

VIA GHIBE LLINA

Museo del Bargello

PIAZZA DI SAN FIRENZE

VAC CHE REC CIA

SA

Palazzo Borghese

Badia Fiorentina

OS TE RIA

VIA CA PAC PO CIO R SA NT A MA RIA

VIA

VIA LA MB ER TE SC A

VIA

VI.DE LL’O RO

Torre degli Amidei

VIA DANTE

BORGO

VIA DELLA CONDOTTA

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA

PIAZZA DEI SALTERELLI

Ponte Vecchio

PIAZZA DEI CERCHI

V. DEI MAGAZZINI

VIA TAVOLINI

V. CALIMARUZZA

CA ST EL LA NI

VIA PELLICCERIA

VIA CORSO

Loggia dell’ Orsanmichele Arte della Lana San Carlo dei Lombardi

V IA

RIUOLO

ZI

Santa Margherita in S.M. dei Ricci

VIA PORTA ROSSA

PIAZZA PARTE GUELFA

SAN

V.BONIZ

VIA DEI CERCHI

VIA ROMA

V. DEI MEDICI V. SPEZIALI

NICA

VIA DELLE OCHE

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

VIA DEI BRUNELLESCHI

VIA DE'

VIA MONALDA CHIAS SO RICAS SOLI V.D.BO MBAR DE

V.D. FIO RDA LISO

DEI

V.CANO

VIA DEI TOSINGHI

VIA LAMBERTI

Loggia del Porcellino

VC.PANICO

DE LL E TE RM E

I

S

TE

LL

V

A

Teatro Pucci

RI

D

LOR ENZ O

MAR TELL I

’ G O

O

DE

VIA

DE I RO ND IN EL LI

Spedale deg

R

LI

SO

N

E

UR

VI

DE’

Museo Leonardo da Vinci

VI

SAN

VIA DE’

BOR GO

VIA DE’ CONTI

LF A

S

DE ’GIN OR I

VIA

VO

ORI

CA

A

GIN

CE

NO

B. L A

VIA

DE

AN

EL AN SC

PIAZZA DEI PITTI

A

V.

V. D.PESCIONI

VIA DEI TORNABUONI

NO ER INF LL’

Palazzo delle Poste

VIA

TI APO Santi Apostoli STO LU CH LI NG IAS AR e Biagio SO NO DE DE I DE GL I AC L BE CIA NE IOL I

VIA

LI

Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova

P. DEI TRE RE

Palazzo Bartolini Palazzo Salimbeni Davanzati

SC

I

LA

UT

EG

DE I

IN

D

I T IN

VIA

UT

PIAZZA DELLA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIA

Galleria dell’Accademia

VI A

V. DELL'O

C

M

ZZ BE A

IA

N DR

SA

ES AL D' A ER

IN LO

EL

AT

PR

A

Teatro Niccolini

Battistero di San Giovanni

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

VIA DEGLI ANSELMI

V. DE

N SA

GI O VI A

ES PR L

V.

AN

R

A

PA

L

LE EL D V IA

Convento di San Marco

LUNGAR

NO DEL LE

TO

R

GR

Ponte alle Grazie AN

I

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 1

DE

R

V. DEI PECORI

TO

NO

R TI MA

A

LL

LL

VI

SAN IO RG GIO

VI

OM

I VE

I VE

M AG

DI

TO I

P IE

VI

I

IN

GN

DE I FO SS I

I

M OR O

H

VIA

IG

DE L

ER D

FI A M AF A IE D AL C

ET

DE

PIAZZA SAN LORENZO

Santa Maria Maggiore

Palazzo P. DEGLI Strozzi STROZZI

Chiesa San Jacopo

TO

IO GL DI AR D' A VI

LI AG RR

IL E

Palazzo Medici Riccardi

NEL LI

STA CO

I SE

R

DE

DEI

IO RG GIO

P

Chiesa di San Felice in Piazza

IO

R

GU EL FA

OLI GN MA

CC

EI

A

CAN TO

SAN

DE

V.

VI

DEL

DEI

PU

D

P

VIA DEI CERRETANI

BORG P.TTA DEGLI O SA ANGIOLIERI N IAC OPO

TT

M

TA

CA

ET

L

ZZ

DE

DE LL ’A LL OR O

VIA DEGLI STROZZI

IO

Ponte Santa Trinita

PI

IO

L IO

VIA

Palazzo della Missione

PIAZZA DE' FRESCOBALDI

Basilica di Santo Spirito

PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO

IG

VIA AGLI

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

GU CC IARD INI

Palazzo Macchiavelli

Palazzo Guadagni

VI A

FE

VIA

EI D A VI

DE L PA RIO NC INO

VIA

LI AG RR

VI A

A

OR

Basilica di Santa Trinita

VI A

NE

N AC

G

VIA

BO Palazzo RG O SA Gucciardini NT O SP IRITO

I SE

A

A

V IA

V IA

UC

NN

VA

V.

G.

V.

A N A LL E C R O P L E D IA V

LU NG AR NO

SA

Teatro Goldoni

VA

Palazzo Corsini al Parione LU NG AR NO CO RS INI

O

DE

ELL

AD

Museo A Marino Marini

A NUO A VIGN VI A DE L PU VIA DEI RG PARI ONE AT

DE I GE PP I

IAN

EL

V. DEI CORSI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO

VIA

V.

O ER LB 'A LL

DE

A

VI

M .F IN IG UER RA

ON L LE DE VI A

MO

V IA

SP

VIA DELL

VIA

E

RO

D'O

LE ON

GO

DE L

DEL

E

M

PA DI I

I

VIA

Basilica di San Lorenzo

STA CO

N

T

PIAZZA DEL MERCATO CENTRALE

STA CO

IE

A

EI

A

CH

LL

E

A

DE

D

Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano

N

LL

A

TREB

PalazzoBIO Antinori

O

CO

N

PIAZZA GOLDONI

FR ED

Mercato Centrale

VIA DEI BANCH I

V. DEL

R

CES

A

V IA

SP

AN

S

.D

L

IS

VI

C

IL

N TA

A

C

V

SA

L

U

FR

A

R

S.

N

MA

IA

C

SD

DI

G

A

V

S

Loggia di San Paolo

VI

CA

A

PA NZA NI

V.

DE

CC

O

NO

PU

O

VE SP UC CI

TI

A

O SA N

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine

M

G

OS

OLA

VI A

CA

L

Chiesa di San Paolino

Ponte alla Carraia

BO

L

L

VI A

PIAZZA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

LO

AG

VI

AM ER IG O

Ex monastero delle Convertite (1330)

TR VIALE PE

D EL

R

V.

DO

VI A

DE

O

O

RG PIAZZA O DE LLA DEL CARMINE ST

AL

DO

BO RG

OR TO

V IA

V IA

O

Chiesa S. Frediano in Cestello

PIAZZA TORQUATO TASSO

BELL VIA GIANO DELLA

U AR

B

SO DE RINI

NE

U

N T’

O

SG

LU NG AR NO

IO

ZZ

SA

LL

LO

GG

LA

A

HIE

B EL

L PIA

PA

Ognissanti

I

VIA

VIA

VI A

LI

DE

O

DRA

VIA

DO

LU

A

DE LL’

CA

I

T

VI

VI

IAN

A

E

NE RO O SP LL DE

AL

VIA

DI

RD

VI

VI A

RIO

S. ON OF

VA N

GIO

AR

FR ED

PIAZZA DE’ NERLI

S.

VI CO

VIA

VIA

O SA N

NI

IO ST

O

BO RG

N

D

V IA

VI

V IA

C

LU

.

S

V.

DI M ELE G N AN O

VIA

'AN

SI ES

EA

NA

DI

A

AR N

DE LL

AL

S

LU NG AR NO

Ponte Amerigo Vespucci

VIA

LA

N EL

ZA

MO

CO

G IA

A

O

IS

VI

LA EL AD

TT

CI

A

AI

LL

CE

RU

DO AR RN BE

D. ORT IO RI CEL LA RI

V.

IA

RO

ST

LE

PA

SA

Porta San Frediano

VI

RD

N

II

RI

VIA TADDEO ALDERO TTI

O P IN CO IA N

SA

DI

V IA

RE IO LF BE

E

AL

VI

TA

EN

AG

M

V IA

DI AL IB AR

G

E

PP

SE

IU

G

V IA

V IA

RO

I

EA

G

I ON NN V.ZA

VECCHIETTI

V. G . TA RG IO NI TO ZZ ET TI TA

EN

AG

M

V IA

A

N TA

CO

NE LL

SA

OL

ZZ

O GO

ZZ

AL

O

V

Chiesa di S. Giovanni dei Cavalieri

A

NI AG RG O M TA IS BA N

I

IN

PA C

PO

IP

LI

EL

SS

RO LI EL AT

FR

V IA

TO

OL IVE

NT E

NO

E

O

X

VI A

E

L

P. DI MADONNA DEGLI

A

PI

LU

C IA

AR

QU

A .S

DI MO

BE

AL

G

A

A

P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI ITALIANA VIA DEL MELARANCIO

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

VI

E ON EN RD PO

M

G IA

V IA

OTT I

CAV ALL

VIA FEL ICE

NO

V IA

TI ET IN OV LD

O

BA

VIA

VIA ANNIBAL CARO

VIA DEL CHIESINO

VIA DI MONTICELLI

S I D IA V

AR

RC

IA

NG

BU

V

LE

V IA VIA DELLE PANCHE

LE OL RZ

LE V IA

VIA LE CO RS ICA

I

LL

DA

O.

V.

I

O

LL

D

IS

TT

BA

N

A

R

F

N

O

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VI

V

A

IA

FR

A

N

AN

LU

O

C

S

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C

RA

VE

O

C ES C

TA

I

IN

C

BO I IG LU A VI

AN

DI DO OL

RT

BE

VI A

VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA

VIA FRA' FILIPPO LIPPI

O

N

IA

F

F

O

O

Z

Z U IV L 'O L L E D IA V

VI A

VI A

GI OV

MO

NI

I

RT UL

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DR

AN

O LE G LI DE V.

HI NI

SC

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V. B. FR AN

I C IC D N A C

PONTE SOSPES O

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LL

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VI A

I TT EO DR AN RO BE LI

V IA

S

VIA DEL

SI E

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NO

AG

.M

VL

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LO

A EL

FF

RA

A

V IA

I GN GA . M OR LE

V IO G

NO

IA

I D E

V

NN VA G IO V IA I

I IN ER H C C

V IA

N

O C ES C AN FR

VA

I O P IP IL F

A

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V IA

EN V IA

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LE

G

IO RZ OL LE

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RL

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FO O R IC

PE RT INI SA ND RO VIA

I

N IN

O FF M ID DE LA

V IA

AR A

CA RR

VI A

VI

I

TO

R

N

IA

N

erina da Cat na S. da S i e

VIA

D

IVE

O

LO

E

E O L

EL

AT

NT

B

LL

MO

B

TE

X

EL FA

PIAZZA D E L L A S TA Z I O N E

IA

ELLI SCAN V. TO

DI

N

Giardino Palazzo Pandolfini

O TE

PIS AN A

VI

VIA

O

IO

VIA

M

CI

V

IO

Z

Stazione Ferroviaria Firenze Santa Maria Novella

V

Chiesa d

AC

UC

N IF

LU

BO

SP

NI

PI

O

IA

IA

S TA

ET

GL

ER

LU

IV

SO

O

OL

O

ND

A

TE

NI

FO

VI

ON

TO

D ’A

M

A

TE

Chiesa Di San Bartolomeo a Monte Oliveto

DI

AN

CA

LO

AN

O

DU

U

M

ZZ

V IA

NI

LL

V IA

O

EG

Santa Lucia sul Prato

Polimoda

IC

IN S

I A

Arco

Porta San G

D.

AN

DE

Santi Vito e Modesto

ON

L

VE

II

V IA

OV

A

O

E

NE

NO

INO

PIAZZA PIER VETTORI

A

GI

VI

VI A

ET E

I T A

IG

EN

FI LA R

O

IA

STUDIO VIA DELLO

PIS AN A

A

V

I TT NE ZA

BRONZINO

VIA

VI

VIA BA RT OL OM MEI

PIAZZA INDIPENDENZA

VIA

PIAZZA TADDEO GADDI

L

I I N G N V A L A

» MAP PAGES 46-47

A

E

ND

S

ER

LA

U

LA

R

AM

PA

N

C.

NO

A

U

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VIA

AR

VI

I

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NIN

ON

M

BU

IN

CO

IFI

A

G

G MU

RU

LU

Ponte della Vittoria

E

GN

DO

IO

R

I

Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore

I

M

LE

ON

PI

VIA

A

E

I

E

D EL

A

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Giardino dell'Orticoltu

IO

A

NN

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VI

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VI

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’ V A

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EL

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C.

TO EN ’ARI LL DE VIA

NO

The region offers nothing but a wide choice of numerous structures spread out across the territory, from the most famous to more “discreet” structures often B E associated L L O S G U A R D with O resorts.

VIA

A

LE

O

EL

CC

C

SO

S IM

D

V. DU

S

DO

San Barnaba

DONN E

CO

STAR NIN

A

L

DI

AR DO

RO

V. GH ER

L

ZZ

San Giuliano

I

DE

NO

Chiesa Parrocchiale Santissimo Crocifisso a Monticelli

L

IN

V IA

Z IA

P IE

NE

AS

E

V.

R TE

BELLE

VE

V IA

D.

C

D

NN

VIA DELLE

INO OL MAS

V.

LA

O

Casa di Riposo della Beata Elisabetta Vendramini

IA

G.

ZZ I

Cenacolo di Foligno

V. DEGLI AVELLI

VIA

PISANA

EL

L

V

Giardino degli Orti Oricellari

CE

B.

E

A VI

Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli

V. D

Chiesa episcopale americana di St. James

FO

UM FI

NA SA PI

ZINO BRON

L

LA

VI A

A VI

O IOL LLA PO

VIA

E

D EL

ZA EN FA

LI

F

B

A

A VI

VIA

IA VO

L

E

DA

ID

AR

ND

A

O

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FON

DE

VI

VAL

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S

N

39 SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY

NG

BA

VIA

AZ

B.

O

I

PA L

A

M

San Jacopo di Ripoli

N

L

O

NI VIA L. MAITA

L DE

NIO TO AN

SI O DO

LU VI

IA

VI

Firenze Fiera

PIAZZA ADUA

AN

IG IO

The moment has finally arrived for wine lovers to taste an excellent red wine. Discover our selection of the best Italian labels.

NI ANTO ANNI

IA

FIL

LE

Giardino di Valfonda

V.

O

AM

O CESC FRAN

DE

V

V

ET

L IA

THE SOUL

DEL

VIA

V.

Giardino di Palazzo Corsini sul Prato

CC

IG

CI AB

INO SOV SAN

D IA

LU

PIAZZA P. BATONI

NTI TA L E

LI

LI NC OL N

DA

V IA

O LI

PIAZZA VITTORIO VENETO

AB RA MO

PO

NI

VI AL E Ponte delle Cascine

S

CO

AN

I DI AV

RO

LI

IA

AM I AL

FR AN

LU IG

RSO

DE L

VI A

DE

CO

O

CIA IE

ZZ

NA

LA

MO

L PA

GH IAC

VIA G. DA MO NTO

VIA

EL

O

I

AT

V IA

LI

T

OL

FR

V IA

L SE

FR

VIA

PIAZZALE DI PORTA AL PRATO Porta al Prato

Stazione Leopolda

A

RS

I

R

TO

LL

P

ON

O

AR NO

PI OP PI

E AT

ST RO

IP PO

A

Information and tips to experience the best that Florence has to offer.

VIA PIAZZALE BAMBINE E BAMBINI DI BESLAN

I

LL

SE

S RO

A

56 ESSENTIALS VI

Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels.

I A

.M

LG. PORTA LEOPOLDA

V

.D

E

VIA

DE

NTE DIAMA

PIAZZA PIER DELLA FRANCESCA

LI NC Parco delle Cascine OL N

14 THE “RED” THAT WARMS V.

IOV VIA G

A

DE I

V.G

I

Teatro dell’Opera

O

NI

SE

DA

CC

V

O

LU

O

IC

U

RC

N

TO

I

E

A

HE

S

BI

IC

S

M

E

BA

T

I

R

O

DE

U

VI

Fortezza da Basso

34 TOP HOTEL RESTAURANTS IM

O

IM

LE

US

M

M

O

LE

P

EL

LU NG AR NO

RI

BA

E

D

ST

V. L. NN

L

A

GU

VA

L

VI

LI

G IO

A

A

I

E

V IA

G

ID

Ippodromo del Visarno

A

VA

VI

LLE VIA DE

PIAZZA ALESSANDRO BONSANTI

O

N

LT O

I I M

GN

C O TA A R S P

E A L V I

ZZ I

VIA G. PAISIELLO

LL

D

A

VI A

DE

Giardino della Fortezza

A

TO

IO

SI

RE

AS

ST RO

B

EN

RA

C

Chiesa San Jacopino

SA

A

LO

CEL

MAR

TTO

T

BB

VI

DE ENE

CE

A

I

IT

FE

VI

L

NN

MA ZO

N

V

IX

L

RE

IA

VIA

E

E

TR

RE

MB

VA

GIO

LE

LO VIA

X

S

LARGO MARTIRI DELLE FOIBE

TTE

SE

XX

VIA

NE

S

V

TTI

VIA

IP PO

O

O

FIL

M

ESC

INO

CC

A

Orti del Parnaso

LIO

E

NC

PU

LE

L

AIA

LEO

L

FRA

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Several of the best shopping destinations not far from Florence, offering discounts year-round.

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One of the undisputed symbols of Florence and one of the most photographed sites in the world.

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One of the locations symbolising the city, the Baptistery of San Giovanni is one of the oldest places of worship in Florence.

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The Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avantgarde structure, for immersive winetasting experiences.

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The “Bellezza oltre il limite” exhibition at Forte di Belvedere, until 31 October (see page 10).

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EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Florence ®

M A G A Z I N E

We’ve been here for centuries.

We’re waiting for you.

Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember

we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world.

www.whereitalia.com/florence PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.

T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@proedimedia.com www.whereitalia.com/florence PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users.

Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world.

Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in the creation of Italy.

So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance…

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 COO

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Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto amministrazione@proedimedia.com PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com 2 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C TO B E R 2020

Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1 BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2

CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia,

Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world.

The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5

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PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it 4 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C TO B E R 2020

then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7 PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps.

The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of

SEE MAP PAGE 46

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Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10 MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order.

Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”.

The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade

by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles.

It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13

SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15

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WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

Eternal fascination The large Piazza Santa Croce is one of the main squares of the historic centre of Florence and over time it has become one of the nerve centres of Florentine cultural and commercial life. It has long been the theatre for the city’s festivals, meetings and celebrations, and in the 15th century it hosted jousts and tournaments on horseback.

Facing onto it are the splendid Basilica of Santa Croce and a number of prestigious residences, including Palazzo Cocchi Serristori and Palazzo dell’Antella.

Completed in 1320, the Franciscan church quickly became the sacred place that noble and illustrious Florentines yearned to have as their final resting place: Dante Alighieri, Galileo Galilei, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Macchiavelli, Ugo Foscolo and Vittorio Alfieri, to mention just a few.

Don’t miss a visit to the Bell Tower, the Sacristy with the famous Crucifix of Cimabue and the Medici Chapel, the Cloisters, the Pazzi Chapel, the Museum and the Basement (www.santacroceopera.it).

Since the end of the 15th century, the matches of Calcio Storico Fiorentino have been held in the square and a marble circle has been placed on both Palazzo dell’Antella and the building opposite to indicate the half-way line of the pitch.

On 14 May 1865, on the occasion of the fifth centenary of poet Dante Alighieri’s birth, a monument dedicated to him was positioned in the centre of the square, but the monument has been removed and moved to its current position on the parvis of the church to enable the Calcio in Costume matches to take place.

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TRUBA7113 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PIAZZA SANTA CROCE

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Discover & Enjoy Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

UNTIL 1 NOVEMBER

PH © ALESSANDRO MOGGI

Cobwebs as works of art, the cosmos as geometries, vibrations and sounds: Tomás Saraceno, a visionary artist whose creative research combines art, natural and social sciences, invites you to change your perspective on reality and connect with nonhuman elements such as dust, insects or plants, the protagonists of his installations. At Palazzo Strozzi, “Aria” offers an itinerary of immersive works between the courtyard and the main floor invites you to rethink and overturn the anthropocentric viewpoint: from man at the centre of the world of the Renaissance to man as part of a complex universe in which to seek a new harmony. www.palazzostrozzi.org

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PH © ELA BIALKOWSKA, OKNO STUDIO

TOMÁS SARACENO AT PALAZZO STROZZI

UNTIL 13 NOVEMBER

► 100 METAL WOLFES INVADE THE CITY

The monumental installation by chinese artist Liu Ruowang occupies two prestigious spaces, Piazza Pitti and Piazza Santissima Annunziata, and wants to create connection and contrast with the idea of harmony typical of 15th century Humanism. The wolves indeed face two emblematic buildings of the Renaissance, Palazzo Pitti and the Spedale degli Innocenti, where the great Filippo Brunelleschi was able to show his conception of space, proportions and architectural rhythm. The threatening pack of wolves shaped by Liu Ruowang - made up of 100 iron castings, each weighing 280 kg - is an allegory of nature’s response to the ravages and predatory behavior of man towards environment.

And it is, at the same time, a reflection on the values of civilization, on the great uncertainty in which we live today and on the actual risks of an irreversible annihilation of the current world, apparently devoted to self-destruction. www.uffizi.it

4-7-10-13 OCTOBER

◄ GIUSEPPE VERDI’S CHORAL MUSIC

When Giuseppe Verdi met Bartolomeo Merelli, an impresario at the Teatro alla Scala, he had no intention of composing a new opera: he was devastated by the death of his son and wife and was convinced that he was a terrible musician due to the fiasco of his first opera, Oberto conte di San Bonifacio. Merelli manages to slip the libretto for a new opera, the Nabuccodonosor, which had been refused

by Carl Otto Nicolai, into the pocket of his topcoat. On arriving home, Verdi threw away the libretto in rage, meaning to destroy it, but when it fell open on “Va’ pensiero”, it was the inspiration that he was looking for. www.maggiofiorentino.com

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 31 OCTOBER

THE SPECTACLE OF TUSCANY

The terraced spaces of Forte di Belvedere, overlooking Florence, play host to the spectacular photographic exhibition by Massimo Sestini entitled “Bellezza oltre il limite” (Beauty Without End).

Twenty giant images present a Tuscany portrayed from an unprecedented perspective: the photographs were in fact taken at a height of 2,000 feet, but with lenses that made it possible to move so close to the scene depicted as to frame it in a totally new and original way. Landscapes that seem to be paintings, with brushstrokes of different colours or composed of overlapping fabrics: here the photograph is transformed into a work of art. www.musefirenze.it

10 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

UNTIL 21 DECEMBER

ESSENTIAL MARBLE SHAPES

Museo Stefano Bardini presents the show “Kevin Francis Gray” dedicated to the artist of Irish descent. The deep bond that exists between the artist and the Tuscan territory is demonstrated by the longstanding collaboration between the artist and the marble processing studios in Pietrasanta. However, for the first time the artist exhibits his works in Florence, in search for a direct dialogue with the great masters of the past. In the halls of the Museum, we find more than ten pieces realized with different kinds of marble: statuario, Carrara, bardiglio, marquina and an artwork in bronze. The artist’s devotion towards the art of the past is testified not only by the materials he employs, but also by that love for the ephemeral, for classic poses and for the subjects almost magically wrapped in a timeless veil. www.musefirenze.it

KEVIN FRANCIS GRAY, BUST OF CÁER (2018). CARRARA MARBLE.

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WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

Discovering Ponte Vecchio

It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better.

12 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

F

protruding over the river.

Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, without exposing the sovereign to any danger.

ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with a picturesque backroom

A UNIQUE HISTORY The change of identity of the zone during the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which were more appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and sometimes a protagonist – of the history of the city:

irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the Etruscans.

The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, which dates back to around 1345.

Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city.

considering it a source of great pride, Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening up new larger, more panoramic windows for his benefit. One rather romanticised version claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of such beauty, would decide to save the bridge from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator.

UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società

Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.

Vasari Corridor

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however,

that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll.

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WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

The “red” that warms the soul Autumn has finally arrived!

The temperatures are dropping, a few days of rain, mist and fog create a special atmosphere with their diffused light, evenings indoors are growing longer and the moment has finally arrived for wine lovers to

14 W H E R E FMLO I L AR N E NI CJEU N I O E C2020 T O B E R 2020

open up a good bottle of red wine! But what kind of red? Full-bodied, elegant, smooth… produced with raisined grapes, aged in wooden casks, a red that caresses the palate like a soft, warm velvet scarf.

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

Speri

Zyme

“R

ed, firm, dry”, that’s the wine produced from the north to the south with autochthonous grapes, applying various methods of raisining, which warms the heart and soul.

Let’s begin with Amarone della Valpolicella, a wine that was established as a DOC in 1968 and as a DOCG in 2010. Our Amarone is a Venetian wine, born in the Valpolicella, a zone with a particular vocation for wine-growing.

Its “classic” area of production, in the province of Verona, with its mild and moderately rainy

climate, offers ideal conditions for growing the autochthonous grapes named Corvina Veronese, Corvinone and Rondinella from which it is made. After harvesting, the grapes gathered between September and October are placed in drying rooms for at least three months. The ancient art of raisining allows the loss of around half the weight of the grapes, thanks to the evaporation of the water in the berries, creating a concentration of sugars and aromas. When raisining is completed, the grapes are pressed and vinified. Then ageing takes place in large or small casts for a variable period – depending on the wine you wish to obtain – (four years for the “Reserve” version).

Now we move to Lombardy, specifically to the Valtellina, a zone famous for its “heroic viticulture” and for the most renowned Vino Nobile among the wines of the Valtellina, Sforzato della Valtellina (or “Sfursat”, as it is called in the local dialect).

The name derives precisely from the practice of “forcing”, namely prolonging the maturation of the grape. This wine boasts a very long history and was established as a DOCG in 2003. In this case too, it is the unique properties of the territory – with its mild climate, sunny due to its south exposure, with the Alps protecting it from winds and damp – that have made it so successful. Obtained from a selection of the best pure nebbiolo grapes, Sforzato enjoys an average raisining period of 110 days. After vinification it must have a minimum alcohol level of 14% and undergo at least 24 months of ageing in wood casks.

As regards the organoleptic profile of these reds, this obviously depends on the wine concerned, based on the blend of varieties, raisining method applied, duration, climate and ageing … in general, however, all have a very extensive and complex organoleptic profile in common and boast a very long ageing potential. These are structured wines, rich in alcohol and full-bodied. Fruity (dried or preserved in spirits), spicy (pepper,

“Wine gives courage and makes men more apt for passion.”

Ovidio (43 b.C.-17 a.D.)

liquorice, cloves), balsamic (resin, clay, pine), vegetal (earth, brushwood) and many other notes are presented to the nose. Acidity is less evident to the palate and the wines prove to be more balanced and harmonious.

On the pages that follow you will find my TOP 8, not only of the wines of the two DOCGs presented, but also those by other producers who have succeeded in obtaining excellent wines in this style. Imagine drinking one of these wines on a wet, grey, cold day.

Absolutely perfect!

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

TOP 8

This selection includes exclusively Italian labels meriting significant attention due to their quality and their typical expression of the territory.

The choices made are the result of personal experience in the field, with tastings and continuous research within the sphere of events devoted to wine.

Veneto

Speri - Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano 2015 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella DOCG Corvina Veronese and Corvinone 70%, Rondinella 25%, Molinara 5%, raisined 15% ABV www.speri.com

Terre di Serrapetrona

Speri

Zyme - Amarone della Valpolicella 2015 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella DOP Corvina 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 15%, Oseleta 10%, Croatina 5%, raisined 15.5% ABV www.zyme.it

Lombardy

Fay - Ronco del Picchio 2015 Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) 100%, raisined 15% ABV www.vinifay.it Mamete Prevostini – Albareda 2015 Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG 15% ABV Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) 100%, raisined www.mameteprevostini.com

Piedmont Travaglini – Il Sogno 2015 Nebbiolo 100%, raisined 15.5 ABV www.travaglinigattinara.it

Travaglini 16 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

Marche

Terre di Serrapetrona – Robbione 2013 Serrapetrona DOC Vernaccia Nera 100%, raisined 15% ABV www.terrediserrapetrona.it

Abruzzo

Lunaria (Cantina Orsogna) - Bucefalo rosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 100%, raisined on the vine 14.5%, organic and biodynamic wine www.lunaria.bio

Puglia

Fay

Agricole Vallone – Graticciaia 2015 Salento Rosso IGT Negroamaro 100%, raisined 14.5% ABV www.agricolevallone.it

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Mamete Prevostini

Graticciaia

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SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

From nature to cosmetics The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a place where you can discover products for personal care with a Florentine spirit, finds its natural location in the convent of the same name. By Giulia Minero

D

id you know that the oldest historical pharmacy in Europe is in Florence?

A pharmacy since 1381 and later an apothecary run by the Dominican monks of Santa Maria Novella, of which it occupies the chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Bari, in 1848 the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella abandoned its ancient vocation to become a perfumery and herbalist’s shop where today products for personal care are prepared based on the use of precious medicinal plants. Under a nineteenth-century vault, embellished by frescos representing the four continents to symbolise the Pharmacy’s worldwide renown, an abundance of perfumes, soaps and cosmetics are to be found. Moving on to the Antica Spezieria (Old Apothecary), 18 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

which has kept its original wooden furnishings and stucco decorations intact, those wishing to immerse themselves in an experience of yesteryear can find ancient preparations, herbal teas and herbalist products, typical specialties and liqueurs alongside antique scientific materials such as thermometers, mortars, measuring scales and scoops. On the other hand, the Sala Verde (Green Room), which at one time was a distillates laboratory, is the ideal place to discover unusual gifts such as perfume diffusers for the home, wax products, accessories and decorative items. Today, as in the past, all the products are made using medicinal herbs and essences cultivated in the Garden of Santa Maria Novella in the nearby Città di Castello and processed using age-old artisan techniques.

>> Via della Scala, 16 T: 055 216276. Map D2 www.smnovella.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

The

Guidelines CLOTHING &

MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47).

SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 20. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4

Anichini

CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details.

A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3

Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com.

Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r.

T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4

Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a separate category. The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

The new Dolce Vita of Valdichiana Village

New names, new logos and a new way of telling the story of the Villages. From this month on the Dolce Vita-themed autumn-winter campaign characterises all five Land of Fashion centres, including Valdichiana Outlet, which has changed its name to Valdichiana Village.

The communication underlines the exclusively Italian nature of the network.

The commercial offer is also new, thanks to numerous openings in recent months, showing signs of newfound liveliness after the period of forced closure. Among these: Napapijri, the iconic Italian streetwear brand with a Finnish-sounding name and a Norwegian flag as its logo. The perfect blend of outdoor clothing, innovative materials and a particular attention to style. Sunglass Hut, the ideal destination to find a meticulous selection of the most sought-after brands of sunglasses, fashionable and quality. GS Sport, with the New Balance and Ciesse Piumini brands to further complete the autumn offer, and Docksteps, a footwear shop that proposes a vast range of models, such as deck shoes, moccasins, ankle boots and comfortable multi-style sandals to ensure pleasant ease of wear and reassuring value for money. www.valdichianavillage.it

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r.

T: 055 212995. Map E4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women.

Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r.

T: 055 287931. Map E4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r.

T: 055 9040090. Map E4 BOGGI MILANO— www.boggi.com.

Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.

Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r.

T: 055 219179. Map E3 BORSALINO— www.borsalino.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via Porta Rossa, 40/r.

T: 055 218275. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA— www.bottegaveneta.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 6n.

T: 055 284735. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r.

T: 055 2396786. Map E4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com.

Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r.

T: 055 293811. Map E4

CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4.

Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r.

T: 055 2670157. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208.

Map E3 DIOR— www.dior.com.

Women. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r.

T: 055 2669101. Map E3 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082.

Map E4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r.

T: 055 264254. Map E3 ETRO—www.etro.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.

Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r.

T: 055 2670086. Map D3 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r.

T: 055 212305 Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30.

Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4

Outfits were paraded in Paris for the autumn-winter 2020-2021 CHANEL collection paying homage to the themes dear to Karl Lagerfeld, but with a touch of carefree youthful lightness. Among the recurring details: buttons opening and closing the sides of the trousers or full skirts with side slits, calf-length boots with cuffs, Maltese cross set with precious stones.

20 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

This “rockstud” metalized calfskin court shoe, with matching studs, bears the unmistakable signature of VALENTINO GARAVANI.

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r.

T: 055 219041. Map E3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r.

T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10.

T: 055 75927010. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981.

Map E3 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r.

T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r.

T: 055 287761. Map F3 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.

Piazza della Repubblica, 43.

T: 055 290284. Map F3 MISSONI—www.misson.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r.

T: 055 2608931. Map F3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583.

Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r.

T: 055 292050. Map E3 POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r.

T: 055 288539. Map E3

Made from soft, patent leather in a column construction, this shoulder bag by GIORGIO ARMANI features an elegant and subtle embossed logo.

HOGAN—www.hogan.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r.

T: 055 2741013. Map E3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com.

Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r.

T: 055 294909. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r.

T: 055 2398688. Map E4

Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details.

STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1.

T: 055 210856. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r.

T: 055 216227. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com.

Women. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142.

Map E4

PRADA—www. prada.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r.

T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r.

T: 055 267471 Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r.

T: 055 9040100. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r.

T: 055 292123. Map E4

The iconic model of the BRUNELLO CUCINELLI sports line uses precious materials to create sophisticated combinations. The soft washed chamois upper is combined with semi-gloss calfskin details. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

SHOPPING international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente. it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm.

Piazza della Repubblica.

T: 055 219113. Map F3

FINE ART Abacus

SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME See this page.

Elena Mirò An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style.

From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3

Giovanni Raspini In the beating heart of the fashion district, the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand-crafted white bronze creations, always having a style that is midway between minimalism and classicism as the common denominator. From the design to the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamondsetting, each piece is entirely hand worked.

Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com.

Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4

Luisaviaroma

MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories for a total look that exudes 22 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

ANTICO SETIFICIO FIORENTINO See this page. class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113.

Map F3

Société Anonyme An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3

Stefano Ricci Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword.

These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, making production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo TornabuoniVia dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3

DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items.

For women, proposals of the best Italian and

BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318.

Map L4

Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only).

Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3

Galleria Romanelli The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.Map C4

Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870.

Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r.

T: 055 2396039. Map D3

Papiro (Il) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces objects drawing their inspiration from the

SHOPPING “Radiomir” watches, a mechanical legend since 30’s, mirror the OFFICINE PANERAI technical excellence. where many of the characteristics of the original model are conserved.

Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1

Pitti Mosaici Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6

Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862.

Map G6

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Alessandro Dari

UNIQUE Housed in the 15 -century Palazzo Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit his precious works and another used as an artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative objects are developed, including one-off items and themed collections. Some of his works are displayed at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6 th

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world.

Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993.

Map F4

Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm.

Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4

Aprosio Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r.

T: 055 210127. Map E2

Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4

Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4

Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm.

Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3

Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4

Officine Panerai

Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery.

Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”.

A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù.

Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by international customers, are genuinely unique pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23

SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings.

Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

24 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926

Gianni Chiarini

In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r.

T: 055 2741044. Map F5

Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3

Tiffany & Co.

Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship.

The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4

Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4

Ugo Poggi It came about in Florence in the early 20th century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now in its third generation, today the brand proposes a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a precious selection of antique silverware. No longer just internally produced furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian and top quality international brands. www. ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 26/r.

T: 055 216741. Map E3

Vacheron Constantin Boutique In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028.

Map F5

LEATHER Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials.

A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it.

Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map

Il Bisonte

PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6.

T: 055 2343471. Map H5

Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired

by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3

La Ménagère

CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am.

Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1

SHOPPING Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm.

T: 055 2399527. Map D3

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies.

The frescoed monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm.

Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276.

Map D2

sensibility with modern Latin American elegance.

Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4

Salvatore Ferragamo Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition.

The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4

UGG First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian lifestyle brand specialising in footwear.

A brightly lit space with colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the UGG 2019 campaign, in the heart of historic piazza della Repubblica. Inside, the more traditional models stands alonside new footwear. www. ugg.com.

Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3

STATIONERY Pineider Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and design are the distinctive features of this brand, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of precious and embossed paper to articles made of fine leather, to elegant writing instruments created in the Tuscan workshops, Pineider products have endless possibilities of personalisation. www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. Map E3

The Merchant of Venice The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r.

T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections.

The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêtà-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r.

T: 055 282485. Map D3

SHOES Aquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic

From California to Florence The footwear, clothing and accessories of the UGG® brand, founded in 1978 by an Australian surfer on the coast of California, which has become an icon of style thanks to its leather and reversed sheepskin boots, find space in the brand’s first Italian boutique. A brightly lit space, which has been created using a combination of wood, wrought iron and glass furnishings, with pastel colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the #UGGLIFE F/W 2019 campaign. Inside, the more traditional models stand alongside new footwear from the Classic Revolution collection, which reinterprets classicism with a contemporary touch, inspired by the vitality of San Francisco. Drawing inspiration from Classic Short II, Classic Mini II and Neumel models by the brand, the collection includes thirteen renovated models. Stylistic research with the use of new materials, decorative elements such as straps and zippers and the addition of wedges are combined with an in-depth study of comfort, reaching its peak in the new Miwo sneakers, with a gritty design and avant-garde Vibram® soles. In addition to footwear, lovers of shopping can also find a selection of outerwear and accessories. www.ugg.com

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[RINASCENTE]

The best shopping

The Rinascente store, a few yards from the Duomo, is spread over a total area of 3,300 square metres with seven floors devoted to fashion, beauty, food and lifestyle. As with the other points-of-sale around the peninsula, the space is giving its look a makeover to make shopping even more captivating and engrossing. The thread running through that is driving the renovation of the Florentine store is artisanship, a concept that is very dear to the city. Particular attention has also been reserved for leather goods and menswear, in perfect harmony with Florence’s identity.

On Floor -1 devoted to beauty, with an offer ranging from skincare to make-up to perfumes, the real jewel is the “Beauty Lab”, with a selection of iconic products.

The first Floor is the new destination for men’s fashion, which retains an eye on its young clientele, with proposals of accessories, underwear and travel items.

Timeless refinement is the thread running through the second Floor, with all the best of men’s clothing and shoes.

26 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

The third Floor, featuring the Women’s Clothing and the Women’s Shoes areas, is truly a hotbed for artisan products. The store proposes, side-by-side, clothes for her of accessible luxury and advanced contemporary brands, ready to wear options, lingerie, bags, fragrances, jewellery, sunglasses, shoes by luxury brands as well as urban-style sneakers.

The new fourth Floor offers a transversal shopping experience combining fashion, quality craftsmanship, design, beauty products and food: the “Tosca&Nino, the taste of tradition” restaurant and bar, open from breakfast till after dinner, focuses on rigorously selected Tuscan products, with a wine shop on the fifth Floor. Finally, the panoramic terrace with views of the Duomo, where you can sip a glass of wine and taste dishes from the tradition amid the city’s rooftops, will offer you a priceless experience.

STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight

>> www.rinascente.it Piazza della Repubblica.

T: 055 219113.

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

In the heart of the city, in Piazza della Repubblica, Rinascente offers the best of cosmetics, fashion, food and design, with the addition of new hand-made products following the tradition.

And there’s also the opportunity to enjoy typical tasty dishes while looking at a breathtaking panorama.

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA

The Mall Sanremo

?

MAR LIGURE

VENTIMIGLIA

FORTE DEI MARMI

FERRARA

MAR

BOLOGNA ?

LUCCA

PISA

Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

SIENA

?

Valdichiana Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side.

• WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round.

With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm.

• WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station.

28 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes retail price. from Florence.

Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the TIRRENO hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the designed to involve the whole family.

“Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by minivan service from centrally located hotels in Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge.

SARDEGNA shopping experience memorable. The Village is • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours and footwear) featuring your favourite brands from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme.

Chloé (June 2018 Opening).

• WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè unique hospitality at the core of the services Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, shopping. www.themall.it Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne Westwood and many more.

VALDICHIANA VILLAGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

best local food and wines are on offer.

Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle.

• WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour and many others.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it

Valdichiana Village

Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets

The Mall Firenze

Fidenza Village

Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

PHOTO © FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM

DINING

The “place to be” for Tuscan cuisine Not just shopping! Near Via de’ Tornabuoni, today - as over 130 years ago - the most authentic cuisine of the Tuscan tradition is on show at Buca Lapi, served in an environment with a unique charm. By Giulia Minero

S

ince 1880, in the wine cellars of the noble Palazzo Antinori, in the beating heart of the city, there has stood the oldest restaurant in Florence, bearing the evocative name of Buca Lapi. Before delving into the details of the venue, however, we need to provide a quick explanation of “buche” (holes). These premises, below street level with entrances from the main streets of the city, were once used as wine cellars, deposits or basements to keep wine and other products, whereas today they are used for restaurants with a particular vocation for local cuisine and distinguished by the characteristic exposed vaults. It is precisely the marvellous ceiling, the custodian of history for over a century thanks to a meticulous restoration 30 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

and covered with posters from yesteryear, that is the number-one decorative element of the location, embellished by the frescoed walls of the first room. The dishes on the menu, all strictly based on products from the territory, are prepared in a show-cooking kitchen and include warm crostini with sausage and ricotta, ribollita, wild boar with polenta, tripe in the grill pan or mixed fried vegetables. The pasta, the key element of wild boar pappardelle, pici senesi with meat sauce and wild fennel or cannelloni gratinati alla Buca Lapi, is home-made, respecting the most authentic Tuscan tradition. Of course, bistecca alla fiorentina could not be missing; thick and juicy, cooked on soft charcoal and brushed with extra virgin olive oil, to be enjoyed – ça

va sans dire – accompanied by a full-bodied Tuscan red wine, to be chosen from a large, carefully prepared wine list. >> Via del Trebbio, 1R. www.bucalapi.com T: 055 213768. Map E3

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

TUSCAN CUISINE Benedicta

EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r.

T:055 2645429. Map D2

Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it.

Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5

Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes.

Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427.

Map E5

store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r.

T: 055 0750600. Map F1

from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957.

Map G6

Latini (Il)

Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r.

T: 055 234 0804. Map L4

Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3

Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13thcentury Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r.

T: 055 9067188. Map H3

Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come

L’Ortone

Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www. casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3

Opera Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera

Cibrèo Ristorante

PH © OKUNIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

In Florence and in the area near the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r.

T: 055 2341100. Map L3

Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita.

Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com.

Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map

IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it.

Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4

La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

Genuine food for all tastes at the Central Market Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh ADVERTORIAL pasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas,

fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains.

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together.

Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18thcentury Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses.

Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potatobased one is unmissable) or à la carte.

La Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic

32 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine.

Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo.

The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays around the tones of green and pistachio and can welcome up t o 35 diners indoors.

La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta

Il Palagio Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass.

Borgo San Jacopo Ribollita calssica..e croccante

Ora d’Aria

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bottega del Buon Caffè

Ora d ’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom.

We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.

DINING restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions.

In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2

Osteria Badalì Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it.

Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6

Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com.

Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3

Tuscani 3 (I) If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.

T: 055 285356. Map F4

Zeb Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2.

T: 055 2342864. Map H6

lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com.

Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3

Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r.

T: 055 214179. Map D3

Buca Poldo A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578.

Map F4

Buca San Giovanni Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it.

Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F4

Fiaschetteria Nuvoli Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r.

T: 055 239 6616. Map F2

CANTINE

PIZZA

Antica Mescita San Niccolò

Pizza Man

Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6

Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with

The “fiorentina”

Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does glutenfree and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r.

T: 055 2480200. Map H4

Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania.

The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3

Buca Mario

Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the original and tell it apart from the hundreds of impostors, there are a few tips you need to know.

Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual with unwritten rules that the visitor needs to know to avoid falling foul of the restaurant owner, paying over the odds and to make sure they get the real thing.

WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle.

It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare.

HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point.

At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo.

WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti.

WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ ristorante-perseus-firenze).

(C.Z.)

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort wVia di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine.

Bristol Winter Garden

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence.

Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels.

Bristol Winter Garden c/o Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com The restaurant is located inside the evocative Winter Garden, covered by the historic Libertystyle glass ceiling. A versatile ambience with classic motifs of 18th-century chinoiserie. Among the proposals of Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio the inimitable roasted rock octopus and the most traditional Chianina tenderloin, a true tribute to the Tuscan land. The Winter Garden opens into the Tinello, the beating heart of the hotel, designed by Riccardo Barthel, that hosts a variety of gastronomic appointments in different moments of the day.

Capriccio Restaurant c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 www.montebellosplendid.com The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight dinner or a special event.

34 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5.

T: 055 670971 www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition.

Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r.

T: 055 287860 www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings.

Il Giardino Restaurant c/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42.

T: 055 2771891 www.sinahotels.com A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter garden which can be opened during the summer months, has been studied in every detail with an exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by chef Luigi Incrocci.

The menu presents interesting creations of the best Italian and international tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar has 60 wine labels.

Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco.

Irene c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 www.roccofortehotels.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products.

J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar c/o JK Place Firenze Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella.

La Cucina del Salviatino c/o Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles.

DINING

Il Conventino a Marignolle

Il Palagio of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes.

Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city.

La Loggia Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden.

Relais Le Jardin c/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.regency-hotel.com Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality.

Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes.

Ristorante La Loggia c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the visit even just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef Alessandro Cozzolino.

Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection

Villa La Vedetta c/o Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too.

Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.

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PHOTO © ROCCO RORANDELLI / TERRAPROJECT

ENTERTAINMENT

Antinori wine experience The Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avant-garde structure, for an immersive experience going far beyond simple wine-tasting. By Chiara Zaccarelli

I

mmersed in the extraordinary Chianti landscape, amid gentle hills, endless vineyards and old olive-groves, the Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico Region welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori Marquises. About 45 minutes by car from Florence, this low environmental impact, high energy-saving structure overlooks the surrounding countryside where Sangiovese grapes are grown (together with the other varieties of grape that have historically been placed alongside them). Here it is possible to experience delights of the senses by immersing yourself in an itinerary that is architectural, gustatory and emotional at the same time, revealing the majesty of the wine 36 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines.

Various tasting itineraries are available: from the simpler one, for those approaching the world of Marchesi Antinori to the more complete one, which includes a tasting of seven wines and lunch at the “Rinuccio 1180” restaurant, located on the roof of the Cantina.

To complete the visit, it is possible to visit the “Futuro Antico” space, where a part of the family collection is exhibited.

The Antinori Family has been dedicated to producing wines for more than six hundred years now, managing the activity with innovative choices, but maintaining an unchanged respect for the traditions and for the territory. >> antinorichianticlassico.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

APERITIVI Chiaroscuro Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Florentines today are attracted by the original and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3

Easy living Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com.

Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4

Il Locale Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo.

Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it.

Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

(more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r.

T: 055 286258. Map F5

and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r.

(Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5

Three Sixty

“The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original and genuine light lunch, with the option of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r.

T: 055 242327. Map H5

From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2

Zoe Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft lighting. For years a favourite with the younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111.

Map H6

BRUNCH Ditta Artigianale Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon

Foody Farm

Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4

Procacci This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere,

Il Rifrullo

PH © PIXEL TO THE PEOPLE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r.

T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738.

Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4

Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4

Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4

Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www.westinflorence.com.

Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3

Signorvino This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines

Flying over Tuscany If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic tour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a ADVERTORIAL company recognized by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. www.balloonintuscany.com

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ENTERTAINMENT with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3

Teatro del Sale

Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance.

Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99.

T: 055 212320. Map H4

Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com.

Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district).

T: 055 2001492. Map I3

Teatro Goldoni

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES

The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1.

Off Map

Teatro Comunale The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back to the second half of the 19th century. www. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791.

Map B2

Teatro Verdi The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany is located in Florence, in the historic district of

Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre.

Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6

Teatro del Maggio

Stazione Leopolda Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway station: it was decommissioned, and today has become a sought-after venue for meetings, conferences and various events. A versatile, multifunctional space, it has its name associated with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of the event that launched the career of Florentine politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622.

Map A1

Visarno Arena It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Off Map

WELLNESS Bené SPA This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www.villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18.

T: 055 228790. Off Map

Firenze Number Nine This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.”

A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted.

Very well known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9.

T: 055 293777. Map F3

Four Seasons SPA A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments for teens and children also available. The supermodern fitness centre is located in the quiet of the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com.

Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1

Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside guests as the beauty centre annex every day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860.

Map F4

Il Villino SPA

THE MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it

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A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, luxury materials, and hand-made decorations

by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map

ENTERTAINMENT

SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY

Bagni San Filippo

Bagni San Filippo A small town not far from the slopes of Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its sulphur waters, which were used by the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous deposits that form the small, spectacular hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco.

Unlike the well-being and spa treatment centre, access to this area is free of charge.

Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena).

PHOTOS ©SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bagno Vignoni This tiny ancient stone village has one unique and unforgettable characteristic: at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not for bathing) where the spar waters are collected, gushing out at a temperature of 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative steam during the cold months.

Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it.

Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150.

Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae.

Bagno Vignoni

A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions.

(E.P.)

www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena).

T: 0577 889001.

Castello di Velona An 11th-century fortress transformed into a residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino.

The indoor and outdoor swimming pools (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) use water from a nearby thermal spring originating on Mount Amiata.

Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002.

Grotta Giusti The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave that winds its way among stalactites and stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear water, the temperatures of which vary from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the

metabolism of the blood vessels.

Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com.

Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771.

San Casciano dei Bagni Classified among the “Most Beautiful Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on a hill immersed in the Siena countryside.

The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo are ancient washtubs where it is possible to bathe freely, while there are indoor and outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by a magical garden with views of Mount Amiata.

Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com.

Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena). T: 0578 57241.

Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Among the most beautiful free thermal baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino are small natural pools supplied by small waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable environment. Next to them, the Terme di Saturnia complex has spring water pools, a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort.

Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-delmulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it.

Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111.

Terme di Petriolo The thermal baths are sited on a natural spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the course of the River Farma. The waters, rich in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena).

Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Amid faith, art and history Universally recognised as one of the locations symbolising the city, consecrated in 1059 in honour of its patron, Saint John, the Baptistery of San Giovanni is one of the oldest places of worship in Florence. By Giulia Minero

L

ocated opposite the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery owes part of its renown to its particular octagonal plan structure - typical of the baptisteries of antiquity - surmounted by a pyramidal dome consisting of eight segments, the richly decorated interior of which bears the signatures of great Renaissance artists of the calibre of Cimabue and Coppo di Marcovaldo.

Among the masterpieces contained in it, in addition to the funerary monument in memory of the “Antipope” John XXIII created

by Michelozzo and Donatello, the precious gilded mosaics of the dome representing the Angelic Hierarchies and Universal Judgement stand out, dominated by the great figure of Christ the Judge.

40 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

The exterior of the Baptistery, on the other hand, entirely covered in slabs of white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, is famous for its three bronze doors, of immense historical and artistic value. The South Door, by Andrea Pisano, dating back to 1330, illustrates the life of Saint John the Baptist in 28 inlaid panels, the North Door,

by Lorenzo Ghiberti, imagines the life and passion of Christ through 20 panels, and with a further eight, the four evangelists and four “fathers of the church”, while the East Door, located opposite the Cathedral and known by the epithet conferred on it by Michelangelo, of “Porta del Paradiso” (Gate of Paradise), consists of ten gilded panels representing scenes from the Old Testament.

Gate of Paradise, detail.

>> Battistero di San Giovanni Piazza San Giovanni. Map F2 www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it

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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

Duomo and Cupola

There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5

Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century.

It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof.

The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic squarebased bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3

Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the HabsburgLorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located on the left bank of the river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6

Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the treelined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”. Map I7

San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. www. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34.

T: 055 234 2731. Off Map

Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798.

Map F1

PH © LUCY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Ponte Vecchio

Piazzale Michelangelo

Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4

Palazzo Vecchio Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today.

Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”.

The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16.

T: 055 2466105. Map H4

FIRENZECARD

www.firenzecard.it

Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it.

Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18.

T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2

Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river.

A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30.

T: 055 210030. Map D5

San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi.

Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures

by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici 42 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free.

Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2

Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5

Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2

Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm.

Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org.

Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3

Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions.

Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7

Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings. The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open TuesSun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2

Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views.

Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308.

Map H1

Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1

Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325.

Map G4

Museo di Santa Maria Novella

Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House.

At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum.

Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885.

Map E6

Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello.

Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the

PHOTO © STOCKPHOTOVIDEO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel

by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi

Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3

| SIGHTSEEING

relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4

Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm.

Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie).

T: 055 2342427.Map G6

Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna.

The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here.

Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm.

Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1.

T: 055 2388606. Map F4

Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo.

T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3

Villa Bardini and Gardens

MUSEO DEL BARGELLO The National Museum of the Bargello is located inside the Palazzo of the same name from the 13th century, the oldest public building in Florence. Its collection of Renaissance statues is considered among the most significant at world level: it in fact includes masterpieces by Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati and other important sculptors, in addition to a large applied arts collection. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it

The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelinstarred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm.

Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43

PHOTO © SEAN XU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.

F

lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain. With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually 44 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

only allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre). To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the

Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted he residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind.

Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit.

The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel).

You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE

AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.

T: 055 49771.

Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it

www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers.

Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650

Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021.

www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it.

Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10.

AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) - (80 km from the centre of Florence).

Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx.

1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx.

1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it

Getting around Florence ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802.

Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes.

Can be used on buses, trams or trains.

Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70).

Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12).

7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am).

NEW A further step in the digital transformation of Florence’s public transport: today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards.

The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with S.M. Novella Station has been activated on February 2019. Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence.The entire historic centre

of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter.

Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4.

T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard.

2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard.

3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service.

4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm.

TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish.

Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

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5 STARS Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Off Map Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Map G4 Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Map E4 Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 • Map C3 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 • Off Map Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10 • Off Map

4 STARS AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 • Map H2 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 • Off Map Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • Off Map Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r • Map C2

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Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 • Map F3 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 COUNTRY HOUSES Il Paluffo – Via Citerna, 144-Fraz. Fiano (Certaldo, Firenze) • Off Map

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48 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2020

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