Where Turin n 25 November 2020

TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2020

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ TURIN

BEAUTY TO ADMIRE First time in Italy.

Robert Capa’s unexpected colour photographs are on show in Turin

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY HOW TO ENJOY YOUR WINE TASTING IN ITALY

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

DISCOVER

ENJOY

CITY GUIDE www.whereitalia.com

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

Turin

November 2020 38

the guide

ENTERTAINMENT

24 SHOPPING

B R E N TATO R E

Catullo is the ideal place for a romantic fish dinner, infused with Mediterranean flavours.

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Eight restaurants offering a triumph of flavours, aromas and untold C I T T U R Icreativity.

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33 MICHELIN-STARRED

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Information and tips to experience the best that Turin has to offer.

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Some of the best examples of 17th and 18th century CAMPIDOGLIO European architecture.

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This month’s round-up of art exhibitions, music and local traditional events.

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10 WHAT TO DO

COVER IMAGE Robert Capa, Capucine, French model and actress, Rome (August 1951). © Robert Capa, International Center of Photography - Magnum Photos

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Robert Capa’s unexpected colour photographs are on show in Turin

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A temple of oldworld flavours, Caffè Al Bicerin is one of Turin’s multi-award winning locales in the heart of the city.

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Every Damiani jewel is a unique work of art, handcrafted by expert goldsmiths and the result of a great attention to detail.

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Università Chiesa di Santa Pelagia degli Studi di Torino

EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Turin ®

M A G A Z I N E

We’ve been here for centuries.

We’re waiting for you.

Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember

we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world.

www.whereitalia.com/turin PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.whereitalia.com/turin PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users.

Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world.

City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 COO

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto amministrazione@proedimedia.com PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in the creation of Italy.

So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance…

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance!

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>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com 2 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

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CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In

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2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which

now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4 PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3

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a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729).

5 VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714.

Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 4 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is

by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I

bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano

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in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10 MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home

matches have been played here since 2011.

An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium.

12 BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13 REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th

century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

6 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

MOLE ANTONELLIANA

A unique “vertical” museum An architectural landmark of the city of − Turin, the Mole Antonelliana (planned in 1863 by architect Alessandro Antonelli) was initially conceived as a synagogue, before being bought by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument to national unity.

The Mole Antonelliana is the unique − location of one of the most important film museums in the world, the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, renowned for its rich collection of exhibits.

Featuring a unique, vertical layout, it − spirals upwards, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary.

Organized by levels, not floors, in − addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum’s rich heritage includes collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema (level + 5 metres), the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (+10) and the ‘Rampa’ which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above.

A major highlight of the visit is the − building’s panoramic elevator which takes visitors on a ride, up 85 metres, to the ‘Tempietto’, a panoramic terrace offering a breathtaking view over the city and its surrounding Alpine range.

The braver of heart can also access the − panoramic terrace on foot from the ground floor to discover the places hidden inside the cavity of the dome. www.museocinema.it Via Montebello, 10.

Open Wed-Mon 10am-7pm

PH © MICHELE D'OTTAVIO

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WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

Dynastic collection The Royal Museums - the Turinese museum − complex founded in 2016 - are located in the heart of the city, in Piazzetta Reale next to Piazza Castello.

The Museums offer a fascinating itinerary dedicated to history, art and nature, with artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time.

This large museum project encompasses Palazzo Reale (the Royal Palace), the Royal Gardens, the Library and the Royal Armoury (see photo), the Savoy Gallery, the Archaelogical Museum, Palazzo Chiablese and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud.

The Galleria del Beaumont, home to the Royal Armoury, can be accessed from Palazzo Reale via the Sala del Medagliere. The Royal Armoury, opened to the public in 1837, hosts one of the world’s richest collections of ancient arms and armour together with the Royal Armoury of Madrid and the Imperial Armoury of Vienna.

The Armoury currently hosts more than 5,000 objects ranging from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, including an unmissable section dedicated to 16th century arms and armour. The artefacts displayed originate both from the private collection of the King of Italy and acquisitions and donations, often associated with diplomatic activities. A prime example are the oriental and African arms and armour.

The entry ticket to the Royal Museums includes the following itineraries: the Royal Apartment on the first floor of Palazzo Reale, the Armoury and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, plus the Savoy Gallery and the Antiques Museum.

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MUSEI REALI

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER AND ENJOY Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, music and design or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

ARTISSIMA. Internazionale d’Arte Contemporanea www.artissima.art GAM Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di Torino.

Via Magenta, 21. www.gamtorino.it Palazzo Madama-Museo Civico d’Arte Antica.

Piazza Castello. www.palazzomadamatorino.it MAO-Museo d’Arte Orientale.

Via San Domenico, 11. www.maotorino.it

7 NOVEMBER 2020 – 9 JANUARY 2021

ARTISSIMA CHANGES SHAPE

CONTEMPORARY-ART This 2020 edition of Artissima Internazionale d’Arte Contemporanea will not have its usual form in the spaces of the Oval due to the recent developments in the epidemiological situation.

The event is therefore being reinvented with a new formula, spread out over time and space, bringing together physical exhibitions realised with the Fondazione Torino Musei and digital projects, confirming itself as a key appointment of the month of contemporary art in Turin and of the art system in general.

In its physical guise, Artissima Unplugged will present three exhibition projects, at the GAM, Palazzo Madama and the MAO, between 7 November 2020 and 9 January 2021. The exhibitions, which have the theme Stasi Frenetica in common, will host the works of the galleries selected for this edition of the fair. The three museums therefore present a distillation of the historical sections of Artissima: Main Section, which brings together the most representative galleries on the worldwide artistic panorama; New Entries, which presents the emerging galleries on the international scene; and Dialogue/Monologue, which brings together the galleries intending to present the work of an artist or a dialogue between two artists with an experimental approach.

In parallel to the exhibition project in the museums, Artissima has launched Artissima XYZ, an unprecedented cross-media online platform that proposes an immersive experience from 3 November to 9 December, hosting the sections “Present Future”, “Back to the Future” and “Disegni”.

© RENATA SEDMAKOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Palazzo Madama 10 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

GAM Torino

MAO - Museo d'Arte Orientale

OUT OF TOWN

10 OCTOBER – 8 DECEMBER

The Italian Truffle Fair at its 90th edition

The “Alba White Truffle Fair” is one of the top showcases for haute cuisine and Italian excellence. The heart of the fair is the “Alba White Truffle World Market”, the ideal place to appreciate and buy truffles from the Langhe, Monferrato and Roero area. The “Truffle Show” is the space dedicated to Cooking Shows with great chefs, the Truffle Sensory Analysis, the Wine Tasting Experience, twinnings with territories of food and wine excellence. The program of the 90th edition is currently being defined, stay tuned: www.fieradeltartufo.org

14 FEBRUARY 2020 – 18 JANUARY 2021

MADE IN ITALY IN HOLLYWOOD

CINEMA Movies, art and fashion. The exhibition at the Mole Antonelliana celebrates the extraordinary history of Italy’s Annamode Costume House, renowned for the creation of stunning costumes for blockbuster productions. An interactive, immersive exhibition featuring 100 costumes designed for 40 films, in which each garment is displayed like a work of art. Highlights includes costumes from films like La Dolce Vita, King Vidor’s War and Peace (1956), Vittorio De Sica’s Marriage Italian Style (1964), Guy Ritchie’s King Arthur (2017), Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette (2006), plus costumes for TV series The Witcher.

Cinemaddosso. From Cinecittà to Hollywood the costumes of Annamode Museo Nazionale del Cinema di Torino. Via Montebello, 20 www.museocinema.it -www.annamodecostumes.com

2 JULY – 15 NOVEMBER

BAROQUE TREASURES

COLLECTIONS The exhibition shows a selection of silver works from the Palazzo Madama collection, retracing the history of silverware in Piedmont from the early eighteenth century to the late nineteenth. It starts by illustrating the metalworking techniques used for this ductile, malleable material, and the assay techniques set in place by the Court of Savoy to guarantee the value and quality of the items being sold. The works on display give the visitor an overview of the table silverware, furnishing items and religious objects. In addition to these artefacts, the display also includes grandiose drawings

by Giovanni Battista Boucheron, which are accompanied by portraits of the silversmiths in his family.

SILVER TREASURES. Piedmontese Silver in the Palazzo Madama Collection Palazzo Madama, Piazza Castello (Sala Atelier) www.palazzomadamatorino.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

©ROBERT CAPA ©INTERNATIONAL CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY / MAGNUM PHOTOS

26 SEPTEMBER 2020 - 31 JANUARY 2021 ► UNEXPECTED CAPA

The exhibition presents Robert Capa’s colour photographs to the public for the first time in Italy.

Although he is recognized almost exclusively as a master of black-and-white photography, Capa began working regularly with color film in 1941 and used it until his death in 1954. While some of this work was published in the magazines of the day, the majority of these images have never been printed or seen in any form. “Capa in Color” includes over 150 contemporary color prints, as well as personal papers and tearsheets.

Organized by Cynthia Young, Curator of Capa Collections at ICP, the exhibition presents an unexpected aspect of Capa’s career that has been previously edited out of posthumous books and exhibitions, and show how he embraced color photography and integrated it into his work as a photojournalist.

Capa in Color Musei Reali Torino (Sale Chiablese).

Piazzetta Reale, 1. Infoline: 338 1691652 capaincolor.it

17 SEPTEMBER – 8 DECEMBER ◄ PAOLO VENTURA, WHEN

ART BECOMES THEATRE

An itinerary through the eclectic career of Paolo Ventura (Milan, 1968), one of the most widely recognised and appreciated Italian artists both in Italy and abroad. Ever since his early works, Ventura has combined great manual skill with a particular poetic vision of the world, building sets within which short fairy-tale and surreal stories come to life, and which are then captured by the camera.

The rooms of CAMERA host some of his most suggestive works of the last fifteen years, in a fine blending of languages that includes drawings, models, sets, papiermâché masks and theatrical costumes.

PAOLO VENTURA. Carousel Camera - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia.

Via delle Rosine 18. www.camera.to Image: Automaton#04 (da The Automaton) 2010 © Paolo Ventura 12 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

1 OCTOBER 2020 – 31 JANUARY 2021 ► A LOOK INSIDE THE HUMAN SOUL

©PAOLO PELLEGRIN/MAGNUM PHOTOS

Photographer and member of the Magnum Photos Agency, Paolo Pellegrin takes us into the armed conflicts that ravage the world or into the climate emergency, but also within the walls of his own studio. The exhibition, held in the sumptuous setting of the Reggia di Venaria, in fact also presents a special and unprecedented section devoted to a personal and intimate story

by Pellegrin: photographs taken in Switzerland with his family during the period of quarantine due to the Covid-19 lockdown.

PAOLO PELLEGRIN. Un’antologia Reggia di Venaria, Sale delle Arti (1st Floor).

Piazza della Repubblica, 4 - Venaria Reale (Turin) www.lavenaria.it

25 SEPTEMBER – 20 DECEMBER

LIKE IN A STILL

30 works selected from 25 years of production by Massimo Vitali, an artist with a well defined style who encapsulates scenes as though in a movie still. Almost a Canaletto of the modern age, he captures every small detail with his eye and transfers it onto photographic paper in a realistic, analytical way (here, the Jovanotti's beach party, 2019). The people appear as though guided by an “offstage” director, unaware actors in a choral drama.

MASSIMO VITALI. Costellazioni umane MEF – Museo Ettore Fico.

Via Francesco Cigna, 114. www.museofico.it

1 OCTOBER – 15 NOVEMBER ► ARCHITECTURE AND SOCIAL LIFE

Gianni Berengo Gardin was one of the renowned Italian photographer who collaborated at greatest length with the Olivetti company. The exhibition project highlights the intensity of the professional relationship between the photographer and the Ivrea-based firm, through a careful and partly unseen selection of over 70 black-and-white images from the time, publications and other archive documents redesigned on the basis of a curatorial choice that outlines two main sets: a formal one investigating the importance of architectural planning and a second one which examines the system of social and cultural services that brought the factory and the surrounding territory to life.

1965-1990. Gianni Berengo Gardin e la Olivetti Camera - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia (Project Room).

Via delle Rosine 18. www.camera.to Photo: Unità Residenziale Ovest Olivetti, detta ‘Talponia’, Ivrea, stampa ai sali d’argento su carta, 1971. AASO, Fondo Gianni Berengo Gardin © Gianni Berengo Gardin/ Fondazione Forma w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER

The Royal Residences In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. B Y G I U L I A M I N E R O

Reggia di Venaria Reale 14 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, and is only 10km as the crow flies from

Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts.

In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry.

The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy.

During the 17th century, it was converted

Reggia di Venaria Reale Chapel of Saint Hubert

© PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result of work by several prominent architects of

the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events.

Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it

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T

he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the bestpreserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite city-based residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.

© MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

© CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions.

The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org

Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga)

© OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

© MARCO SARACCO | DREAMSTIME.COM

Top destinations around Piedmont

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

16 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

T

his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.”

This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today.

In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of changing colours and softly rolling hills.

Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge.

THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions

are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other mustsees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times.

The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it).

After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it).

In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats. If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself

to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it).

MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties.

Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels.

These works of arts, carved and modeled by artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www. ecomuseopietracantoni.it). Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www. enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy.

The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it).

Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com).

For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www. salsicciadibra.it).

18 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Serralunga d’Alba castle

© MIKEDOTTA | DREAMSTIME.COM

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Museo Enologico Toso Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo is well worth your time.

Built in 1833, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world.

This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www. agenziadipollenzo.com).

In the heart of the Langhe area you can visit the Museo Enologico Toso, where its wine cellar holds the secrets and the hard work of the Toso family at its fourth generation. Toso is a company devoted to the research and development of red wines (from Barbera to Dolcetto) and white wines (from the Langhe Arneis to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG). www.toso.it

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

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Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning car. The outlet provides a daily SARDEGNA station) is available from Turin.

• WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point shuttle bus service from the • WHAT: More than 300 prestigious featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. city centre and a weekly service brands, including Armani, Missoni, designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 from the main tourist resorts in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com.

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Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted Casadei, at up to 30-70% less yearEnrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus accessories, footwear, homeware, also hosts art exhibitions, events well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and sports gear and personal care, with and other initiatives for an make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted year-round discounts of up to 70%. entertaining day’s outing. experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. www.torinooutletvillage.com www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE Vigneti Massa

Truffles and wine, heaven on earth

Known from antiquity, the truffle enjoys absolute pre-eminence.

This gift of nature is a favourite of chefs and the most refined palates all over the world on account of its intense, enchanting aroma, which gives a unique touch to every dish and succeeds – in combination with the right wine – in creating a perfect marriage.

Tuber magnatum pico (Appennino Food Group) 20 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation.

Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

T

he truffle, which prefers permeable and calcareous rubble-type terrain, has found its natural habitat in a dozen Italian regions. Various types of this precious tuber can be found starting from the month of September until March (if we exclude the summer truffle). The most important qualities of truffle are the tartufo bianco pregiato, the tartufo nero pregiato and the tartufo bianchetto or “marzuolo”.

In the Food Hall (7th floor) of the Rinascente department store in Milan, at the Maio Restaurant, a “tuber magnatum pico” (tartufo bianco pregiato) weighing 530 grams by the Appennino Food Group (Bologna area) was placed on display for a few days in early October.

This year prices have varied from €1,681/kg for average sizes to €2,134/kg for large sizes; these price values are lower compared to last year, however, when they reached as much as €3,800/kg at the Alba Stock Exchange.

WINE AND TRUFFLES: A BALANCE OF FLAVOURS So which wine should we combine with

which truffle? It is very hard to evaluate the perfect combinations and it is advisable to also consider the type of dish and not only the type of precious tuber.

To bring out the flavour of the truffle it is necessary to find a wine that has a good but balanced structure in the mouth, whether white or red; many claim that it is necessary to combine white wines with white truffles, while it is red wines for the black ones.

Considering that both truffles and wine have strong flavours and aromas, it is necessary to be careful to dose both correctly so as not to risk overpowering one flavour with the other. Our aim is to seek a certain harmony, a kind of “perfect marriage”, so three basic rules should be considered: - truffles do not require wines that are too aromatic; - wines combined with truffle must not be too acidic, but soft; - truffles are highly-prized, so they require an equally high-quality wine.

COMBINATIONS AT TABLE Perhaps a few examples may help further clarify the perfect combination.

A white truffle used for seasoning a juicy fillet of beef? In this case it is preferable to opt for an important wine, soft and balanced (without too many hints of the cask), such as a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Brunello di Montalcino, a Barolo, Sagrantino di Montefalco or Rosso Conero.

A fried egg with grated white or black truffle?

The perfect combination is a white wine, also to avoid the tannins of red wines, which are not recommended with egg yolks; a good choice, for example, is a Chardonnay, a Ribolla Gialla, an Erbaluce di Caluso, a Timorasso, a Gavi or an Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco.

Tagliolini (tajarin) with Alba white truffle?

Here we could combine a Dolcetto d’Alba, a Pinot Nero dell’Alto Adige or a Chianti Classico.

Autumn is the season in which you can find the most varied preparations with truffles in the trattorias and restaurants along the Peninsula: in addition to following the most elementary rules of food-wine pairing, we invite you to have the courage to try new combinations.

TRUFFLE FAIRS There are many fair events and feasts in many regions in Italy devoted to truffles. Below are just some important events in the month of November, in chronological order: Marche - Fiera nazionale del Tartufo Bianco di Acqualagna Acqualagna • 1-7-8-14-15 November www.acqualagna.com/54-fiera-nazionale Tuscany - Mostra Mercato del Tartufo bianco delle Crete Senesi San Giovanni d’Asso • 7-8 November, 14-15 November www.tartufodisangiovannidasso.it

Emilia-Romagna - Tartófla Savigno 2020 Savigno • 1|7 - 8|14 - 15 November www.tartufosavigno.com Tuscany - Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco San Miniato • 14-15 | 21-22 | 28-29 November www.terredipisa.it/events Emilia-Romagna - Sua Maestà il Tartufo Brisighella • 22 November 2020 www.brisighella.org/eventi/ Piemonte - Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba (90a edizione) Alba • 10 October | 8 December www.fieradeltartufo.org/

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

TOP 10

Below is our selection of wine cellars located in the Italian regions where fine truffles are produced, with a choice of labels usually proposed for trufflewine matching.

Piedmont

La Spinetta - Barbaresco Valeirano 2016 Barbaresco DOCG Nebbiolo 100% 14.5% ABV www.la-spinetta.com

Bucci

Marchesi di Grésy - Gresy Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay Langhe DOC Chardonnay 100% 13.5% ABV www.marchesidigresy.com Vigneti Massa – Derthona 2018 Timorasso 100% 13.5% ABV www.facebook.com/vignetimassa

Tuscany

Cantine Dei – Dei 2017 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sangiovese 90%, Canaiolo Nero 10% 14.5% ABV www.cantinedei.it Mastrojanni Mastrojanni – Vigna Loreto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sangiovese 100% (Brunello) 15% ABV www.mastrojanni.com

EmiliaRomagna

Fattoria Zerbina Pietramora 2016 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva Marzeno DOC Sangiovese 98%, Ancellotta 2% 14.5% ABV www.zerbina.com

22 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Marche

Umani Ronchi - CÙMARO 2015 Conero Riserva DOCG Montepulciano 100% 14.5% ABV www.umanironchi.com Villa Bucci - Villa Bucci Riserva 2016 Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi Riserva DOCG Verdicchio 100% 13.5 % ABV www.villabucci.com

Lazio

Ômina Romana – Cabernet Franc “Ars Magna” 2015 Lazio Rosso IGP Cabernet Franc 100% 14% ABV www.ominaromana.com

Ômina Romana

Tenuta di Fiorano - Fiorano Bianco 2016 Lazio IGT Grechetto 50%, Viognier 50% 14% ABV www.tenutadifiorano.it

La Spinetta

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time?

Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises winetastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Cantine Dei w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23

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SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

Damiani jewels, fascinating crafts Every Damiani jewel is a unique work of art, handcrafted by expert goldsmiths and the result of unique designs, great attention to detail and the use of high-quality gems.

D

amiani is an Italian jewelry company known worldwide for the excellence of its creations.

The secrets of this fascinating craft have been handed down from generation to generation, from the founder Enrico Damiani to his son Damiano, and then to his grandsons, Guido, Silvia and Giorgio.

The Maison is the only jeweler in the world to have won as many as 18 Diamonds International Awards, the Oscar of the international jewelry world. The excellence of its creations has been admired by many stars, including Sharon Stone, Tilda Swinton, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow and Brad Pitt, not to mention Italy’s Isabella Rossellini and Sophia Loren.

24 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

THE “MARGHERITA” COLLECTION, A HARMONY OF SHAPES Rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces of the “Margherita” collection gracefully combine precious and semiprecious stones, refined settings and unusual design details, thus bridging the gap between tradition and modernity. The flower, represented in all its lightness and compositional complexity, shines with dazzling flashes that reveal the absolute quality of the gold, diamonds and precious stones used and the skill of the Maison's jewelers in accentuating the uniqueness of each gem. The daisies shine in the three versions in diamonds and white, rose and yellow gold, to enhance the beauty of a kind and romantic woman.

>> www.damiani.com c/o Boutique Rocca 1794 Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm.

Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

The

Guidelines CLOTHING

MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47).

SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers.

Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 24. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Musei Reali or the Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our decision to describe them in special boxes.

The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.

All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

MEN & WOMEN Boggi Milano Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm.

T: 011 5622017. Map E6

Kristina Ti The standalone store of Torinese brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4

SO San Lorenzo An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, soughtafter style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo.it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5

DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

Map F5

San Carlo dal 1973 Having abandoned its former vocation for big-name fashion brands, this multi-functional concept store focuses on collections based on a ‘no brand’ approach, giving way to a selected assortment of creations by emerging designers. Besides perfumes, essences, accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, Japanese and American designers, the store features a selection of apparel, homeware and hand-crafted Japanese items. A terrace with a bar welcomes customers wanting to sip a cocktail or choose their favourite dish from the small menu that changes weekly.www. sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 161.

T: 011 5114111. Map F4

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings.

Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm.

It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.

Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577.

Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8.

T: 011 4407207. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632.

Map F4

ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3

HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124.

T: 011 546971. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5

ITALIA INDEPENDENT— www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704.

Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335.

T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis.

T: 011 3852651. Off Map

L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320.

T: 011 5620678. Map E5 LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61.

T: 011 547136. Map F4 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447.

Map F3 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c.

T: 011 4782004. Map F4

CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342.

T: 011 5613226. Map F4

MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2.

T: 011 5618744 Map F4

CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2.

T: 011 5066699. Map F4

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109.

Map E5

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5.

T. 011 5625977. Map F4 26 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm.

Via A. Doria, 6.

T: 011 531348.

Map F5

PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203.

Map F4

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s fall/winter 2020-2021 collection draws inspiration from light, nature and the delicate shades of light neutrals.

[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

The best shopping in Turin

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

A year after its opening, Rinascente confirms its role as a point of reference for shopping in the city.

The store offers new aesthetics and new spaces for a unique shopping experience!

The Rinascente department store in Turin has completed a dynamic global restyling process that has now provided the building with a new façade overlooking Via Lagrange in order to optimise the retail space inside and give the new Turin Rinascente store a more distinctive identity. Following the opening of the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design and food, now the ground floor hosts a new area devoted to accessories, jewelley and sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, featuring high-end makeup brands, and the new Temakinho restaurant, where you can sample Japanese-Brazilian cuisine.

The first floor instead acts as a showcase for classic collections, with a focus on outerwear by brands including Emporio Armani, Fay and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other side of the floor hosts more contemporary offerings, with brands like Corneliani Collection and Hugo Boss, or more relaxed options, including Aspesi

or Eleventy. On the second floor, visitors will find themselves immersed in a world of contemporary fashion. Fans of denim will be spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic brands like Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a selection of streetwear labels.

Another groundbreaking addition is the creation of an outdoor clothing area, where brands showcased include EA7, Napapijri or The North Face.

The third floor presents contemporary ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection for a complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal point of the floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated to footwear. Brands showcased include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others.

Lovers of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands

include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more.

The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands renowned for their contemporary classic style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually striking architectural display, infused with a romantic mood; the collections include items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks by big-name brands complete the shopping experience at the store. >> Rinascente Torino. Open 7 days a week.

Check the opening hours on www.rinascente.it Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

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VI The historic boutique comprises two V TT IA OR IA floors, four hundred square metres, nine VI Chiesa di A todi VIA PR San Carlo Borromeo DE brightly-lit shop windows and top name IN L L’A CI PE RC IVE brands, including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, P I A Z Z A Chiesa di Santa Cristina AM SC PIAZZA OV ED CLN VI AD EO A CARLO Breitling, Venini, Salvini, Bulgari, Blancpain, O G IO Chiesa della EMANUELE II VA Visitazione A. Lange &V ISöhne, Ulysse Nardin, Baume N NI AS ● Rocca 1794 O LARGO VITTORIO AN & Mercier, Longines, Bliss and Tissot.C O R GI QU EM OL EMANUELE II INT SO IT VI I NO AN TI Its spaces, curated down to the last detail, M A A MA Chiesa Ortodossa TT U E show Rocca’s renewed commitment to RI rumena di Santa Croce E A OT Camera di commercio di Torino LE TI leria Civica Università Chiesa di Santa Pelagia VI TurinI Iand, together, reveal the brand’s A AN Moderna degli Studi di Torino TO revamped image. The store’s sophisticated, Teatro Vittoria N I O mporanea Madonna degli Angeli GR contemporary interior design revolves AM VI SC A I CA PIAZZA around the new open-plan laboratory.

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AN VIA BO DR E I S with a S. G Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furnitureI A IUS V Chiesa di S. Gioachino EP Piccola Casa della selection of the world’s most brands and brocade armchairs. The store offers a PE Divinaprestigious Provvidenza Cottolengo PIAZZA Astrua 1860 BENE including Damiani, selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy D E T T Rolex, Omega, Breitling, DELLA O ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the FORCA Blancpain, Bucherer, Lange garments, with the exception of French brand CO & Sohne, Longines, TT oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in OL Ulysse Nardin, Salvini and Venini.

Rocca is Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese E VIA CO NG S . Cthe heart of Turin, between I Othe First Italian O acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a RS e HI EN G AR U O Parliament and theE National Library. A key visitor A professionalism and expert consultancy. Located collection of strictly Italian-made footwear and RE IPE C attraction G I of the Mole Antonelliana, its in the shadow a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. Open R I Nat the entrance to the boutique is an P N O VIA elevator operated with a visible gear mechanism RS founder, AlbertoARocca, opened his first boutique Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; SA CO M NT Anagrafe A used reminiscent of those in watches. At its CH at the end of the 18th A century.

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R G Tues-Sat 11amVI IAR A V A H ERoma, 290. Centro historic store, boasting an innovative, modern IA C A7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via T: 011 Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199.

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Map F4 Map H3 EN VIA A NA I CO V IA ZI DE jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and SA O L Mercato NT G CA IU Alimentare A C Tonatto Profumi R M accessories. In addition to several V IA LI precious HI INE PIAZZA O G IA AR F R A representative of Italian A Mercato Tonatto Profumi is aNkey D E L L A V of the world’s most coveted watch brands, PIAZZA NCE IA Ittico Santuario SA S O ND MANUELE R E P U B B L I Cperfumery A F IO della Consolata throughout theCworld.

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JU D E Map F4 LO del Romano Piazza 7.30pm. Via C.E LBattisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4 A S I Lbalance A N 5613873.

V A Carlo Alberto. T: V011 GA LLA IC NI RR RI A BE Chiesa di A Open Tues-Sat 2.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 11am-7pm.

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DINING

Southern cuisine, welcoming atmosphere In Turin, at Catullo, the ideal place for a romantic fish dinner infused with Mediterrean flavours, Southern Italian cuisine blends with the relaxing surroundings of the Po river. By Giulia Minero

E

very day, at Catullo, located just a short distance from Parco del Valentino, the carefree atmosphere of Southern Italy takes centre stage. Inside, in its contemporary dining space where elements in iron, glass and wood interact with brightlycoloured ceramics from Ischia, customers can sample a wide selection of antipasti, starters and main courses featuring the best of surf and turf, with a particular focus on fish-based dishes of Mediterranean inspiration. The ingredients, selected on a seasonal basis, are used to create pasta specialties ranging from the great classics like “Spaghetti alle vongole” or “Chitarrucce with lobster”, to more creative dishes resulting from the meeting of Northern and Southern 30 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Italian influences, including “Linguine in Crosta alla Catullo with seafood and porcini mushrooms” or “Black ravioli with red Mazara del Vallo shrimp and Pachino cherry tomatoes”. The restaurant also caters to the tastes of meat lovers with main courses that include more elaborate dishes like “Bison Rib Eye with a reduction of Nebbiolo” and “Ratte potatoes, braised veal cheek with celeriac rice” and mouth-watering grilled meats. Catullo also boasts a rich selection of Neapolitan pizzas baked according to tradition in a wood-fired oven. Diners in the mood for romance can book a table in the restaurant’s outdoor area with windows overlooking the Po river and the illuminated Isabella Bridge, which connects the river’s two banks.

>> Corso Moncalieri, 176 T: 011 6618336. Off Map www.ristorantecatullo.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours.

Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino.

Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6

Casa Amelie

chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce.

Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3

Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant.

Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick

walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com.

Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621.

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Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it.

Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3

Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di

A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premiumquality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com.

Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2

Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices.

With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3

Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, gardengrown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it.

Via Monte di Pietà, 23.

T: 011 2767661. Map E3

È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The

Piedmontese sushi, with raw meat Who says that the word sushi only means fish? Located in the heart of Turin, in the city’s central via Mazzini, Sushi dal Maslè debunks this myth, and serves Japanese inspired dishes using premium cuts of raw meat.

The restaurant’s name – in Piedmontese dialect maslè means butcher – indicates that local, traditional ingredients are used, and Piedmontese Fassona beef plays a key role. Minced Fassona beef or Brà sausage, combined with Nori seaweed and traditional Japanese sauces give birth to tasty ‘Piémont Sushi®’, interpreted in Uramaki, Temaki and rolls, but also Tartare, Sashimi and hot dishes seared on the grill.

Standouts include ‘Bombetta Piemontese’ with Albese and a Robiola mousse, ‘San Carlo’ with Vitello Tonnato and Alba Hazelnuts, ‘Ficotto’ with Bra Sausage, Tomino cheese and Fig Mayonnaise, or seasonal dishes like ‘Cacio e Pepe’ featuring warm Pecorino cream, black pepper grains and crunchy guanciale. The food is accompanied by an extensive selection of wines from the Piedmontese hills, and is served in a welcoming atmosphere, amidst dim lighting, wood and stone furnishings, and an openplan kitchen.

Sushi dal Maslè. Via Mazzini 37/B. T: 351 8278722. Map G6. www.sushidelmasle.it

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DINING

Pastry Shops The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli

GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017.

PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake.

Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592.

TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional

32 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508.

Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano.

Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it.

Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250.

GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ from one another, this is a multifunctional space. Open throughout the day, it houses and open-plan workshop in the basement plus two rooms where you can sample and purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can find more tha 12 types of products, ranging from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake created exclusively to honour the city of Turin.

Particolar attention is paid to packaging. www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232.

T: 011 4249343.

Galleria Iginio Massari

CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72.

T: 011 4546151.

Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5

Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693.

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Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’.

Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. torino.circololettori.it/servizi/.

Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4

ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence.

While the Piedmontese offerings are created

by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13.

T: 011 19486765. Map F2

Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist.

DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin.

Casa Vicina

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CANNAVACCIUOLO BISTROT TORINO Established to offer diners an elegant, unique experience, this restaurant highlights the essence of the famous Neapolitan chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland mixed and matched with those from Piedmont. The space has been designed in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui.

Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 CARIGNANO At the restaurant located inside the Grand Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the nearby region of Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with contemporary techniques and tastes.

Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea T: 011 5170171. www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 CASA VICINA Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who for five generations have embraced the region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality ingredients. The wine list is extensive and well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates with Eataly, customers can choose from the emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar.

Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto.

T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map CONDIVIDERE Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted

by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere.

Particular attention is paid to raw materials and to desserts that are served in a separate area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, guests can choose from an array of different Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by single-servings of desserts.

Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza T: 011 0897651. www.condividere.com Map H1 DEL CAMBIO Established in 1757, it was among the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional traditions, which he reinterprets with a creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth a visit.

Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it Map F4 MAGORABIN Just steps from the Mole, this starred restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You

can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini. Just a little further on, in the same street, the chef has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail bar with an adjacent pastry shop where you can dine, enjoy a drink or purchase delicious sweet treats.

Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com Map H4 SPAZIO 7 Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived here after working at several of Piedmont’s most historic restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: young, contemporary and open to innovation. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring regions in France.

Via Modane, 20. c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo T: 011 3797626. www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map VINTAGE 1997 As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition.

Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese specialties including truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for the past twenty years with traditional Piedmontese professionalism.

Piazza Solferino, 16H. T: 011 535948. www.vintage1997.com Map E4

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DINING Porto di Savona

Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar.business.site.

Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2

Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries.

Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067.

Off Map

PIZZA

taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com.

Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3

Gusto Madre Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed

by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough-making techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easyto-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it.

Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6

TASTING EXPERIENCE & STREET FOOD Gofreria Piemonteisa If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a timehonoured tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast-based batter, without eggs or milk, these mouth-watering waffles are deliciously light and

topped with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese. Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. www. gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, 7.

T: 349 3926090. Map F4

Mollìca Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola.

At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can choose to have your sandwich filled with these or numerous other ingredients, all sourced exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737.

Map F7

Street Fish Although this might seem strange in a city like Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere.

Options on offer include fish tartare served in a corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you to watch the chefs at work, while the other half features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4.

T: 389 0010612. Map F5

A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers.

Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest.

Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage.

Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82.

T: 011 595457. Off Map

Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts.

Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers.

Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it.

Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3

Crudo fa la Pizza!

Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now 34 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

LE VITEL ETONNÉ Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com

DINING

Food glossary From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the worldfamous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes.

B Y C. Z.

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AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling

Bagna Cauda

PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.

VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven.

A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.

Piedmontese Mixed Fry

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PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables.

Not a dish for the faint-hearted.

of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together.

Bagna Cauda

Vitello Tonnato

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BAGNA CAUDA This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added.

Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you might find people avoiding you because you reek of it!

Bonet

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FOOD&WINE

Old-world flavours in a warm atmosphere Caffè Al Bicerin, which gave birth to the signature drink the ‘bicerin’, is one of Turin’s oldest, multi-award winning locales in the heart of the city.

M

ade from espresso, chocolate and cream, the ‘bicerin’ was created in the Caffè Al Bicerin, which jealously guards its recipe. Il takes its name from the special rounded glasses without handles in which it is served. The locale in the picturesque piazza della Consolata opposite the Sanctuary, was established in 1763 as a shop selling drinks and sorbets, and only became a chocolate and pastry shop in the mid-1800s. The venue probably owed its success to the nearby church: after attending mass, the faithful would flock to the café to indulge in a delicious ‘bicerin’ after fasting for many hours (until 1957, the “Eucharistic fast” required no eating or drinking from midnight to mass). Today, in addition to ‘bicerin’, the Caffè continues to delight the palates of tourists, 36 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

students, Turinese ‘Signore’, politicians and intellectuals with numerous other delectable specialties, including a mouth watering zabaione, prepared on the spot, accompanied by whipped cream, small biscuits flavoured with marsala, moscato, lemon, passito or black cherry Ratafia. Another must-try delicacy is the Bicerin’s cake, made from coffee and chocolate, iced with a white frosting. A visit to Al Bicerin is well worth your time to soak up its old-world atmosphere. Once inside, you’ll feel that you’ve stepped back into the 1800s. Its interior is decorated with original period furnishings, antique mirrors and glass display cabinets showcasing chocolate like works of art. >> Piazza della Consolata, 5.

T: 011 4369325. bicerin.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

FOOD SHOPS

ITALIAN GELATO

Borgiattino

Alberto Marchetti

A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com.

Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4

Gastronomia (La)

VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovyfree Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district.

Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s award-winning ice cream at various locations across the city.

The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that conjure up childhood memories of only the most authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the Slow Food project, which protects small, local producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am11pm. www.albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5

Gelateria Pepino

UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice cream parlours that has been producing highquality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented

and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world.

In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino offers a variety of different options including coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87.

T: 011 542009. Map F4

Mara dei Boschi Its natural ice cream made from only the finest ingredients without preservatives or additives, won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com.

Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herbflavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-inlaw’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map

Latteria Bera Situated just a short distance from Piazza Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ (dairy shop) sells cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter.

Other delicacies on offer include freshly whipped cream and Greek yoghurt. Open MonTues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.latteriabera.com.

Via San Tommaso, 13/a. T: 328 0166854. Map F3

Pescheria Gallina Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del mercato has been in business for over a century.

Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2

Authentic delicacies of Piedmont Turin’s most famous fresh pasta can be found at Pastificio Defilippis in the heart of via Lagrange. It has been here since 1872, when Domenico Toso, chef to the House of Savoy, returned to Turin, following the royal family’s move from Florence. Established as a small artisanal workshop in the 20th century, the high quality and unmistakable flavour of Defilippis pasta have contributed to making via Lagrange the street of gourmets in search of the most authentic flavours of Piedmontese tradition. Fresh egg pasta made with select ingredients, Piedmontese ‘tajarin, ‘plin’ ravioli, ‘agnolotti’ stuffed with braised beef and ravioli filled with truffles, fondue or pumpkin, depending on the season, plus fresh bronze extruded durum wheat pasta, can be purchased to take away, or sampled on-site.

Since 2008, its elegant spaces, decorated with wood furnishings, have also housed a delicatessen and a gourmet restaurant on two floors, where you can taste the great classics of the city’s pasta-making traditions interpreted in tantalizing recipes and accompanied by a good selection of wines. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.

Pastificio Defilippis. Via Lagrange, 39. T: 011 542137. www.pastificiodefilippis.it.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Discover a temple of mixology At Centràl Cocktail Bar, tradition, research and experimentation combine daily to give life to customized cocktails designed to reflect the tastes of even the most discerning guests. By Giulia Minero

38 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

expert bartenders create bespoke cocktails every day that are tailored to suit customers’ individual tastes, regardless of whether these are based on a few simple ingredients, or spur-of-the moment inspiration.

These include a variety of alcoholic or nonalcoholic options, enhanced with spices, and created by balancing flavours and aromas to make your after-dinner drink, or aperitivo, a unique experience.

Make sure to combine your expertly crafted cocktail with one of the venue’s delightful culinary offerings including crudités served with a dill-flavoured Greek yoghurt dip or platters of charcuterie and cheeses accompanied by traditional Torinese rubatà grissini.

>> Centràl Cocktail Bar Via Luigi des Ambrois, 5.

T: 011 5836620. Map G5 www.centralcocktailbar.com

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I

f you want to spend a pleasant evening after dinner in the open air, or find a place where you can sip an expertly mixed cocktail, you’re in luck. Centràl Cocktail Bar in the beating heart of the Savoy capital is a stylish locale with a vibrant atmosphere, where music and mixology take centre stage. Sit comfortably in one of its indoor lounges, decorated with vintage and postindustrial furnishings, perfected by a few contemporary details, or outdoors, with a view over Piazza Carlina, where even the most discerning customers will appreciate their wide selection of beers and Italian and international wines. And when it comes to cocktails, forget the concept of a fixed menu! In addition to classic favourites,

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

AFTER DINNER Hiroshima Mon Amour Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, over the years it has become a reference point for events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Italian and international artists, exhibitions and clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org.

Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map

Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pmmidnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5

Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10.

T: 339 852806. Map G6

Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com.

Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4

APERITIVI Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot.

Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5

Beena This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner).

Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. beenaristoranteindiano.it.

Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7

Among LA DROGHERIA's signature cocktails, “La Torre” (Tiki style) and “Il Sole” (American style) propose a journey into the mysterious world of the Tarot.

La Drogheria Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d.

T: 011 8122414. Map H5

Lanificio San Salvatore Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians.

Highlights include an interesting wine list, including numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm-2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am.

Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7

THEATRES Teatro Carignano One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the place where the king went to watch plays. Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. It has a reputation for producing theatre of the highest standards and presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family entertainment.

Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it.

Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4

Teatro Nuovo Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map

Teatro Regio Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably linked to several of the world’s most illustrious musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets and concerts. Open TuesFri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215.

T: 011 8815557. Map F3

Your home restaurant

Dedicated to those who want to experience the real regional culinary tradition, the typical products of the territory and recipes handed down through the generations of Italian families. The “Cesarine” network - spread out over 140 Italian cities with over 1000 amateur chefs - has become established over recent years with this very aim: to offer a complete gastronomic experience by opening up the doors of home with lunches and dinners, personalised show cooking, cooking competitions, visits to markets or local producers or catering in exclusive locations. Having lunch with an Italian family, with dishes prepared following the typical traditions of the local cuisine, tasting the wines of the territory, is a truly unique experience!

And from this year live cooking courses and virtual appointments are available on the cesarine.com website, in both Italian and English, so you can continue to learn family recipes and all the secrets of traditional cuisine. www.cesarine.com

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Sala Cignaroli

The undeniable charm of objets d’art The exhibition itinerary at Turin’s Museum of Decorative Arts holds myriad surprises in store, including a collection of porcelain by Meissen and a boudoir that belonged to Christian Dior… By Elena Peverata

A

n unmissable house-museum, a journey through time and 18th century Turin. Housed in a historic 17th century ‘palazzo’ on via Po, in addition to showcasing a fabulous array of decorative arts, the Accorsi-Ometto museum hosts temporary exhibitions. Formerly the headquarters of the Antonian Order, the entire building was bought by renowned Turin antique dealer Pietro Accorsi in 1956.

Following the death of its owner, this historic building was renovated by his pupil Giulio Ometto, and converted into a museum showcasing the extraordinary items collected

by Accorsi over the years. The museum was decorated based on choices and criteria that reflected the original owner’s personal 40 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

taste, a combination of a historic home and an exhibition of furnishings and objet d’art from the 18th and 19th centuries. The building’s 27 rooms host more than 3,000 works of art, including paintings, ceramics, furniture, crystals and tapestries, only part of which are preserved in museum-like display cases. This crowded menagerie of precious objects and furnishings features several masterpieces, including a collection of furniture by 18th century cabinet maker Pietro Piffetti, and a snuff box decorated with a portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte, a beautiful gift that was created on the occasion of his marriage to Marie Louise of Austria in 1810.

Another unmissable highlight is the ‘Christian Dior Boudoir’.

>> Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto Museo di Arti Decorative. Via Po, 55 www.fondazioneaccorsi-ometto.it

Sala degli Specchi

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, ecocompatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum.

Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897.

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Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73.

T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6.

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to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518.

Map C5

J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalinfilled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, MonFri 10.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). The ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/ it/stadium-e-museum. Via Druento 153.

T: 011 4530486. Off Map

Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral

The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed

by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December.

Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org.

Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280.

Off Map

GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee.

Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition

Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudoGreek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top of the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema.

Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563.

Map H4

© ENRICOALIBERTI ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea

ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294.

Off Map

PALAZZO CARIGNANO Built between 1679 and 1684 by Guarino Guarini, this impressive Baroque building in Piazza Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Musei Reali

Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe.

The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.

ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour.

BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’.

CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin.

GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces

by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries.

GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing.

MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre.

PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries.

PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.

42 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected.

Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens.

The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1.

Map F3

Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it.

Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2

Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4

Museo Lavazza Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations

and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum.

Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm).

Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621.

Map H1

Museo Nazionale del Cinema The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it.

Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20.

T: 011 8138560-011 8138561.

Map H4

OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22.

T: 011 4365832. Map G4

Parco del Valentino Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available.

Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7

Museo Egizio

| SIGHTSEEING EDITOR’S TIP

Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops.

Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works

by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’.

Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713.

Off Map

Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

Have you heard of Jean-François Champollion? A French archaeologist and Egyptologist and the director of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, he is the man who deciphered the mystery of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s expertise that we owe the defining statement: “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin.”

When mentioning Turin, he was referring to its unique and extraordinary Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian museum founded in 1824, the second in terms of the value and number of artifacts (around 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most widely visited museum in Italy.

The British newspaper “The Times” listed it as one of the 50 best museums on the planet.

Despite its longstanding history and historic

headquarters – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the museum is extremely modern in terms of both its layout and immersive visitor experience.

Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, the exhibition space was doubled, following massive renovations, and is now spread over four levels, three above ground and one below ground, organized in chronological order.

Here you’ll find mummies, tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t know where to begin your tour, get an audio guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and personalize your itinerary to suit individual requirements. A tip?

The Restoration Area on the first floor that allows visitors to watch animal mummies being restored. >> Museo Egizio Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4 www.museoegizio.it

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PH © FABIO LAMANNA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Turin, the city of the Alps The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.

T

urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city.

From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy.

One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, 44 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana).

The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway

system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus.

Turin boasts an enviable geographic position.

It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions.

They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts.

It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services.

Caselle Airport Malpensa Airport

OPEN PHARMACIES

Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza.

T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5.

T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station.

T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org PASSPORTS

Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10.

T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino

Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone.

Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers.

Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter.

To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino

Getting around Turin GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000.

GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm.

Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver and GTT personnel are not allowed to return objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they can be collected after 48 hours from the time of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753.

Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro.

ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their own car and staying in a hotel in the central area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival and departure only, filling out a form at the hotel reception (ask your concierge for more information).

In the same way it is possible to reach paid public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in the same parking lot with the request for transit authorization no later than 11am.

Tourist Information TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE –

Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE –

Piazza Castello corner of Via Garibaldi.

T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm.

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the village and the medieval fortress; Line B to access various sites including the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting point: at any bus stop. Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language commentary.

Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines).

Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

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ESSENTIALS Fast train network from Turin

Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website).

One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12.

Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin to Milan Malpensa airport.

PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS

Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min.

Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including TGV services between Paris and Milan and other services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line.

TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll only pay €5 for your ticket.

Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.

Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -.

The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway.

Information desk T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com

Airports TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) -

(16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. The junction is connected directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www.aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

• Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. www.aeroportoditorino.it CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre

of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www.aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in connection from Turin with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it

© RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD

This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits.

For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.

48 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2020

PH © ROSSHELEN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The most important railway station in Turin is Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, highspeed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Where Turin Magazine

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

5 STARS Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Map E4-5 Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 • Map F5 4 STARS Ac Hotel Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off Map Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, 70 • Off Map Art Hotel Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19 • Off Map Best Western Crystal Palace Hotel – Via Nizza, 11 • Map E6 Best Western Hotel Luxor – Corso Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 • Off Map Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 Diplomatic – Via Cernaia, 42 • Map C3 Double Tree by Hilton Turin Lingotto – Via Nizza, 230 • Off Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • Off Map Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 Hotel Principe di Torino – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • Off Map Lancaster Torino – Corso Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map J Hotel – Via Traves, 40 • Off Map Nh Collection Torino Piazza Carlina – Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 15 • Map G5 Nh Torino Centro – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 104 • Map B4 Nh Torino Lingotto Congress – Via Nizza, 262 • Off Map Nh Torino Santo Stefano – Via Porta Palatina, 19 • Map F2-3 Novotel Torino Corso Giulio Cesare – Corso Giulio Cesare, 338/34 • Off Map Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map Starhotels Majestic – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 The Originals Hotel Turin Royal – Corso Regina Margherita, 249 • Off Map TownHouse 70 – Via XX Settembre, 70 • Map F3 Turin Palace Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, 8 • Map E6 Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 Villa Savoia – Corso Sicilia, 1, angolo Corso Moncalieri • Off Map

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