Where Turin n 23 September 2020

TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

SEPTEMBER 2020

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Turin 5

September 2020 the guide

TOP IN TOWN

32 SHOPPING

B R E N TATO R E

O

V I A PA O L O DELLA CELLA

VIA NIGR A

IA

CE AN FR A

CE RE VI A

O C

A GN CI CO CE AN FR A VI

O RS CO

A GN CI CO CE

O

AN

A SC

FR

SS

A

I LL CE

AN O

O V ER

DA MI VIA LU IGI

RS

PI O

VI

V IA

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CE IO UL GI

O RS D

O

RA

N

A

PO

RS

CO

CO

O

A GN CI CO AN FR

O

BR

ES

CI

IVA VIA CH

A

LI

RA

A

O D O RG

CO LI IN VIN

BO VIA

PIE TRO

AURO RE

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IO

UL

IO

A

RS

O

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IO C.

BB

D.

PR

CO

FE

VIA

XI O RS CO NC ES

NA

I Um be rto

A

TO

HE

MB

RI VIALE P

TT E SE

A

A VI

RE

Palazzo Madama

MB TT E

PE

A OL

A OR

PE

IA

EP

A

NI

NO

CO

US

VI

ST

A

AN

GI

FR

A

VI

A

PR

I

PIAZZA CARLO EMANUELE II

OL

IT

TI

VI

GI

A

S.

VI NI

EP

PA

TT

DA

VI

O RL CA A VI

AN

US

O

O

A

RT OV

O

AN

I TT

GR

BE

GI

P

SC

RI

BE

GE

GI

AL

A

CE

MA

IA

Chiesa San Francesco da Paola

MP

A

V

PIAZZA Biblioteca CARLO Nazionale ALBERTO Universitaria

PO

VI

LA

E

LU

IG

I

VI A

P. GO

MA

M

RO A

A

VI

E

Museo Egizio

PIAZZA SAN CARLO

SE

AL

VI A AN TO Teatro Vittoria N

O

MA

SE

T TI VIO B. G.

VI

XX

O

M

Teatro Regio

AN

A

OV AD

RO RIV

Giardini Reali Superiori

VIA

VI

TA

Palazzo Reale di Torino

Torre Littoria

A

RI

Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo

VI

SA

CH ET

RG

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista

Palazzo Chiablese

XX

O AS MM

TO

FIO

MA

B A Chiesa SS. Trinita LD I

XX

O AS

CO

Galleria Sabauda

RE

VI

N

RI

P I A Z Z A Chiesa di Santa Cristina CLN VI

EN

I

GI

Area Archeologica del Teatro Romano

CA

Chiesa di San Carlo Borromeo

AM

TT

LI

BR

RI

G.

EO

Ga lleria

NO

LA

MI

A VI RI

NO

LA

AN

RC

A

FIE

E

AL

EN SC

RO

TT

NF RA

Galleria VI Subalpina A CE PIAZZA SA TO Teatro Carignano NI O RE CARIGNANO BE BA RT Palazzo Carignano TT Galleria S. Federico OL IS A TI Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano

LA

CI VE

VI A

MA

SI

Chiesa di San Filippo Neri

DO

LL’AR

VI A

O

BA

VI

O BE RE

RS

A

VIA QUATTRO MARZO

VI A

SA

A

VI

IO

Chiesa della Visitazione

CO

GIA

RE

PIAZZA CASTELLO

Chiesa di San Tommaso

NT

EM

OR

Chiesa dell’Immacolata Concezione

DE

O

Museo di Antichità

LL

Uffici Comunali

GA

TÀ

TT

VI TT

FO

VI A

PE

MICCA

SA

A

OL

A

VI

ND

EP

N

O

VI

AN A VI GA

DE

LARGO

US

A T Chiesa di E R Santa Teresa D'Avila E S A

VI A

RS

Porta Palatina

MARZO

GI

MM

S. Giuseppe

PIAZZA SOLFERINO

TI

R.

IE

PIETRO

VIA

A

FR

ET

A

QUATTRO

A

MI

VI A

ZA EZ G.

AI

VI

BE

F.

G.

RN

VI

S. Rocco

Chiesa di San Francesco D'Assisi VI A MO NT E DI P

SC

I

CO

Basilica Corpus Domini

F.

A

GI

I

O ER G LI CA C. Chiesa di

ME

OL

Basilica Mauriziana

IA RA

TO

NE

CC

CH

ZA

Giardino ME Jan Palach NI CO

S.

Municipio di Torino

LL

RT

VIA G. MAMEL

VIA

FA NE

OR LL E N DO

Chiesa dei Santi Martiri BA RB AR OU X

PE

VIA

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

Mercato Ittico

O

DE

VI A

VIA

AN

T’A

VIA

LL

SA

Santuario di Santa Maria di Piazza

BE

BE

Centro Palatino Pala Fuksas

TA

Mercato Alimentare

VI

CE

RI

PIAZZA MANUELE FILIBERTO

D’AP

VIA

O

O

V IA

HE

A

VI

Chiesa di S. Gioachino

CC

SAN

VIA

NG

TI

EP

EIS

San Domenico Museo diPEArte Orientale LL O

E

S TA US

DR

VIA

GI

UM I

RT

AN

STIN

OL NS CO

RIO

Mercato Alimentare

Chiesa di Sant’Agostino

VIA

TO

IO

M PA

NO

M EU

O NO

UL

RG

GO

A AT

I

Palazzo della Luce

Giardino Lamarmora

RS

RS

IN TI

GI

CE

AN

VI A

II

N QU

O

Chiesa di San Dalmazzo

AZ

FE

O

PA

LE

SA

MA

N

OL

OLE

TO

LD

V.

UE

VI A

NA

CO

VI A

TT

L. AR

IO ST

O

CO

LL’A RS

RT

VIT

EZ

NY IG BL VIA

LL DE A BA

A.

LARGO VITTORIO EMANUELE II

GAM - Galleria Civica d'Arte Moderna

G

Piccola Casa della Divina Provvidenza Cottolengo

DE

BE

I

AN

SO LE

EZ

EN

V

SO

R

Z IA

NE

PA R E VIA

GO VI A

VIA

TTO

Santuario della Consolata

San Giovanni Battista

LM NI

VIA GI

NI O

VI A

LL IN

EM

N

VI VI

A

TO

ZI

PIAZZET TA DELLA VISITAZIONE

ZO

AR RR

O CIN

DA

TO

GA AN

RI

N

AN

CO

VI

VI A

VI A

GI

Chiesa di Santa Chiara

VI GA

VI A Chiesa della Misericordia

IS

VIA

A

O

RÈ

NA

PIAZZA

ARBARELLO

LI

RE

IG

A

O BR FA

PE

I

LE LF

CO

A

S AV O I A

EP

LI VA

UC

IAR

Museo della Sindone

E

ND

US

O

TT

O

EC

O

O

ZA

AT

NT

RL

PIAZZA

LL A

ZA

EO

CH

P I AV

RA

GI

DE

AZ

RO

L

N TA

NI CO

IN E

RS

BE

MO

NN

OG

IO

E'

PE

IEN

DO

SO

VA

OR

RI

NF

ON

DE

NO

CO

NT A

TT

EP

SA

ON

PA

PE

RM

A

TA

TI

RR

CI T RT

R OT

VIA

ME

Chiesa del Carmine

VIA

BE

SA AS

Mastio della Cittadella IA

V. BE

VI

CI

CE

O RN LE SA CO AC

VA RS TIE

VI

LL A

NI

VIA

CO

IM

RE

VE

ST

A

San Pietro in Vincoli

RE

V

L CA

I QU AR DE

ST

DE

AN

E

LE

GI OV

PA

RA

TO

RE

TT

US

RS

CA

LE

VI A

N DO

NA

BR

GE

SA

O

BERT O NO TA AL VIA

RI

DE

VIA

RO

VI A VI A

CO

BA

VI A

MA

SA

Parrocchia Santa Barbara Vergine e Martire

DI

VI A

VIA

VIA

VI A

I

O

A

A

A . AV

DO

S. GI

RT

PA

O

A

Anagrafe

A

IEN

DA

MA

VI

BEN EDE

NF

IO

O

I

BR

VIA CARMAGNOLA

LU

Giardino Marino Ferraro

VI

CO

ON

RS

AR

Ex Ospedale San Luigi

LD

A

O

A

ET

O

IA

IN

VI

IAR

NI CO

NZ ON

A

RS

OL

LI A

VI

T

RO

EL BI

VI

GE

CH

MA

RO

RR

AL

SIO

ND ESSA

AI

O

NA TI

TA

SS

A

N TA

Santi Angeli Custodi

IC HE

RA

VA

AL

RT

AG NZ

SE

DO

I ZZ

’A NT

O

SA

SA

SA

CO

NI LIO

VIA

IN E

N SA SSAL

BE

VIA

NT

RU I A B

A VI

LA EL BI A

NE DO OD PE RLO AL

RM

CA

CA

ME

AR

RS SA

RS

TA TIS AT

O

VI

TE

A SA LU

A DE LL

CH IES

VE O RS CO

IA EZ

LLA

OV EN RS CO

NE DO LA

OD PE CI IN PR O RS CO

A RT SE CA

CI IN PR L

BOUC HERO N

IPP

VIA ALA DI STUR A

V I A PA O L O DELLA CELLA

O FEA

NA

IA

VIA O RVIET O

VIA LIVOR NO O RN LI VO VI A BA

VIA

O RT MA

N DO

O DI NI

O

A

R

CE

RS O IN

DE

EU

IPE VIA

SA

VIA

LZ

VIA

FIL

RN

VI

VIA

BO

INC

Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti

OT

O

CO

A

CO

Caserma Cernaia

VI

A

RS AR LE ON IG I

LA LU

VE

CE

VI

CO NT A

LL I

GE

CO

MA

VI A

ZO

O

E'

NIO

RS

O

I

CO

GL

EN

IN I

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OS OR

FI D

OM

EL

SC

ST O CA

RS BO

RS CO

LO

O

NEVRO

EL

LI

RI

CE

IE

AN

CH

FR

VO

LO

NGI VIA MO

VI NC

DO

VI A

VI A

OGR - Officine Grandi Riparazioni

DE

O

O

IN

RS

O

Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice

I

VI

O LL

FF IN

PETR

AN

ZZ

OL SE

AT RI

VI

NI

Vinzaglio

PA A.

OR

NI

CO

I

GO

OC CH

O RS CO

TO

VI A

VI A

P. B

A

R O P

JU

TO

VI

AT

Sant’Antonio da Padova

A VI

A

SI LI

ICCI

CO GR

IL GH

A

IN

VI

RU

A

IS I

AU

CO

AC QU A

O RS

CO

BE O

TE

VI A

Museo del Carcere Le Nuove

NO

NE

VI

AR

RS

VI A

VIA

O

CO

VI A

Porta Susa

RR XI

Grattacielo

E M Intesa Sanpaolo AN UE LE II

AN

XVIII Dicembre

AN

MO AU

Stazione Porta Susa

AU

Giardino Nicola Grosa

IO

NO

OR

A

LZ

A

CL

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TT

A

O RS ND

NT

LA

SA

A

I

Ex Stazione Porta Susa

A

LL

JO

SU

DI

CI IN PR A

VA

VI

O CA

SA

VI A

VIA

VI

BO

ES

VI

RL

VI

BO

BI

LI

O

CH

A AJ A

HI

VIA

AL

S.C

AD

SS

IN

E VA

IN D

IA

F

MAP PAGES 52-53

PIAZZA S TAT U T O

G.

AT

RI

PIAZZA DELLA FORCA

VIA

VIA

AB

TE

VI A

M IS

CO

DU

AC

AN

D'

IG LI

PI

AV

LI

NO

SO

NO

IN TO

VI A

EL

NI

NI

BR

M AR

L

PIAZZA MARIA A U S I L I AT R I C E

VIA

PIAZZA S TAT U T O

CI

VI A

CO

RR

AN

LL EG

CO

VI A

PIAZZA LUIGI MARTINI,

RS

A

TI

Principi d'Acaja

A

VIA

O

LI ET

CO

LARGO CIBRARIO

GI OV

E

L. PA

ON

O

YR

LZAN

PE

BO

ND

Tribunale di Torino

RS

TI LD

EL LI

Chiesa Evangelica Valdese

RSO

EO

GI AC VI A

ERA NGH POLO

VI

OL

VIA CRI SSO

VI A

RI

BA

VI A

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NI O

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LI S

SA

CA

NN

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CA

IA

CA

AM

PIAZZA PEYRON

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VIA ABATE VASSALLI

SA

FF

NI

M AR

IGI

AS

JO

GO

AN

ZO

PE SS

RD ON

VI A

Chiesa Immacolata Concezione San Donato Chiesa VI A LU Sacra Famiglia IG I CI BR A RI O

Parrocchia Gesù Nazareno

VI A

GI OV

PIE

VI A

SA

SU

DO

VIA BRUIN O

VI A

DI

GO

EN

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Giardino Caserma Lamarmora

VIA

NT

VI

DA A VI

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GH

CH

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DI

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VIA

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DU

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E

VI

RI

O

RN

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Chiesa Nostra Signora del Suffragio

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IA

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VI A

VI A

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VA

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CC

AR

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N AT

SA

DO

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N

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CIA CORSO FRAN

VI A

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VIA CESA NA SA

RG

MESSINA

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A

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AN

LV

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IG

LU

A

VI

A

VI A

PIAZZA BERNINI

VI A

V I A VA L D IER

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V I A VA N I NETTI

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A

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C

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SS

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ND

RL

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CA

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VI A

VIA FELICE CORDERO DI PAMPARATO

VIA ROST A

CI

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VIA POMPEO C OLAJANNI

V I A G I A M B AT T I S TA IO

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VIA BORGARO

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VIA L EMM

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RB

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A

VI

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ON

VIA STEFANO CLEMENTE

VIA TRANA

VIA ALPIG NANO

VIA

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VIA CAPRIE

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Bernini

VIA RE VELLO

BA

VIA PERO

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VIA RE VELL

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LE

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VIA GIOVANNI MIGLIARA

II

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VIA CARAGLIO CAM PIG LIO NE

VIA

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O

SI

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AR

DI

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PIAZZA BARCELLONA

VI A

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NO

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VIA

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VI

VI

BI

CU NE

NG

NE

MA

UR

VIA

LU

VIA SO STEG

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Ospedale Maria Vittoria

and untold creativity.

CIT TURIN

A

SC O

A

PE

O

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TT

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A

P

A

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CU

A

RIO ANDR

TIS

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DE S ANC

GI

S

VI

VI

LARGO FRANCECO CIGNA

O

A

VIA VITTO

VIA

RE

N

A VI

CORSO FRANCIA

O

A

RS

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S AT

LD

PI NE

FOS

TO

GI

M BA

SC

I

NI

GA

A

A

H

A CL O TI

DO

IN

R

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PIAZZA FRANCESCO CRISPI

VANO

CC

PI ER

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CE

NA

BE

D

A

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IO

DO

A

VI

IA

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N

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N

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R

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SA

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VI A

AN

CO

PE SS

EN

CE VA

SS

A

IN CI

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VI A

N

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VIA FRANCESCO CIRIO

V IA

ROSAI

RO

VIA VALPRATO

VI

A

D

A

I

PU

LU

GN

CORS

VI A

H

CA

STA

RO

MEF Museo Ettore Fico

CC

LE

PR

N GI O VA

CO

CHIESA Stimmate di San Francesco D'Assisi

VI A

DO

CA

CE

UE

CE VA

Eight restaurants offering a triumph of flavours, aromas

Parrocchia Maria Regina delle Missioni

D RA

NO

VE

A GI

N

AN

IO

DI NI

OI A

BO

CI AL

N

O

T

RI CO

DI

RATO

VANO

IN

EN

TO

SS AN

RESTAURANTS

ME

O VIG E

SA

E

CORS

AN

O

AN

OT TONE

U

VIA CER VINO

A

BA LM

VA LP

VIA CER VINO

PIAZZA GENERALE ANTONIO BALDISSERA

V

VI A

CORSO

LA

PIAZZA GHIRLANDAIO

T TO

A

FO

VI A

PI ST

41 MICHELIN-STARRED

NZ È

OM

U E DA

V IA

Parco Aurelio Peccei

VI

O

Parrocchia S. Alfonso Maria Dè Liguori

L RI DO

VI

VI A

DIO

A RI

DO

DE

O

BIA

AC

VI A

IN

GI

LPH

Parc

Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossa

CH

CI BR

NO

Piazza Chiesa della Salute

AR

G IA

VI A

A

TICI

’

CC

O

VIA

R IC

RIO VIA SOND

TA

VIA N I CO L A FA B R I PIAZZA ZI RISORGIMENTO

O N ZO

ADO

VIA

V I A B R E N TA

Parco Sempione

SO GUL LI

VIA

LARGO STRADELLA

ER

BUR

V IA

VIA

IA

CORSO G

VIA

LA

CLAU

VIA

BO

EL

BR

37 FASHION OUTLETS IG I

VI BO

V IA

BRÉE

Several go-to shopping destinations offering year-round S A N D O N ATO discounts outside of Turin.

E’

N IO

D

MU SIN

TO

A

UM

VI A

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EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY

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M A G A Z I N E

We’ve been here for centuries.

We’re waiting for you.

Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember

we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world.

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Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users.

Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world.

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Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in the creation of Italy.

So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance…

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Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In

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2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which

now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4 PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

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a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729).

5 VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714.

Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 6 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is

by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I

bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano

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in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10 MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home

matches have been played here since 2011.

An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium.

12 BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13 REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th

century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

Dynastic collection The Royal Museums - the Turinese museum − complex founded in 2016 - are located in the heart of the city, in Piazzetta Reale next to Piazza Castello.

The Museums offer a fascinating itinerary dedicated to history, art and nature, with artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time.

This large museum project encompasses Palazzo Reale (the Royal Palace), the Royal Gardens, the Library and the Royal Armoury (see photo), the Savoy Gallery, the Archaelogical Museum, Palazzo Chiablese and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud.

The Galleria del Beaumont, home to the Royal Armoury, can be accessed from Palazzo Reale via the Sala del Medagliere. The Royal Armoury, opened to the public in 1837, hosts one of the world’s richest collections of ancient arms and armour together with the Royal Armoury of Madrid and the Imperial Armoury of Vienna.

The Armoury currently hosts more than 5,000 objects ranging from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, including an unmissable section dedicated to 16th century arms and armour. The artefacts displayed originate both from the private collection of the King of Italy and acquisitions and donations, often associated with diplomatic activities. A prime example are the oriental and African arms and armour.

The entry ticket to the Royal Museums includes the following itineraries: the Royal Apartment on the first floor of Palazzo Reale, the Armoury and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, plus the Savoy Gallery and the Antiques Museum.

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WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

Via Po was built in the 17th century and is one of the The Church of Gran Madre di Dio is located beyond the − − centre’s historic streets, connecting two of the city’s landmarks, Vittorio Emanuele I bridge in the Borgo Po district. This church Piazza Castello and Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Its characteristic arcades are amongst the longest in Turin, making it a favourite destination of shoppers, who go there to browse its historic ‘botteghe’, bookstores, boutiques and cafés.

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© FABIO MANCINO PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

During the 19th century, covered walkways were built along via Po to allow members of the Royal court easy access to the Church of Gran Madre di Dio, in the event of rain (on the left).

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was built in the style of the Pantheon in Rome between 1827 and 1831 to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I to Turin, after the defeat of Napoleon (1814).

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Monte dei Cappuccini (on the right), whose noteworthy features include a convent and a church complex of the Capuchin friars, offers a 360 degree view over the city and its surroundings.

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER AND ENJOY Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating music and creativity or seeing a stage show, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

4-19 SEPTEMBER

An all-Italian MITO

A feast of music that is defined as popular but is cultured at the same time. And an evocative theme: “spirits”, midway between the sacred and the profane. This 14th edition of the festival speaks to the listener’s heart and soul, but also of those performing some of the most sophisticated pieces of classical and contemporary music. The 2020 edition, with 80 concerts over fifteen days, every afternoon and evening, proposes to bring together music enthusiasts of all ages in a moment of “spiritual” rebirth.

MILAN AND TURIN TOGETHER As every year, the event takes place in Milan and Turin, two cities that will exchange their artists daily, according to an extensive programme the details of which are shown on the website. The schedule proposes a 12 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

winning mix, exclusively prepared for MITO, of pieces from the classical repertoire and contemporary music, some even being performed for the first time.

In this special edition marking the return to live music before an audience, foreign artists will not be performing due to the obvious current logistical difficulties in travel: this will therefore be an all-Italian MITO with guests such as conductors Ottavio Dantone, Michele Mariotti and Alessandro Cadario, cellists Mario Brunello, Enrico Dindo and Giovanni Sollima and pianists Andrea Lucchesini, Benedetto Lupo, Emanuele Arciuli, Filippo Gamba, Davide Cabassi, Filippo Gorini, Bruno Canino and Antonio Ballista.

A new formula for the concerts too: without intervals and lasting approximately 1 hour, with double programming for evenings.

The Turin venues chosen are the Teatro Regio and the Conservatory, where, for the first time, the evening concerts will be repeated twice, at 8pm and at 10.30pm, to skirt around the problem of the reduced number of listeners allowed for each show.

Then followed by the Teatro Erba, the Teatro Cardinal Massaia, the Teatro Monterosa, the Officine Caos, the Alfateatro and the Teatro Carignano.

PROTAGONIST OF THE SILVER SCREEN The festival will close in Turin (Teatro Regio) on 18th and in Milan (Teatro Dal

Verme) on 19th September with a concert entitled “Cinema”. In the spotlight are the pages of classical music borrowed by the silver screen: from Hungarian Dance No. 5 by Johannes Brahms, present in the film “The Great Dictator” by Charlie Chaplin (1940), to the Nocturne from String Quartet No. 2 in D major by Alexander Borodin, included in the soundtrack of “The Living Daylights” directed by John Glen (1987), to Souvenir de Florence op. 70 by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, which can be heard in “The Gambler” by Karel Reisz (1974), and finally Piano Concert No. 1 in C minor op. 35 by Dmitri Shostakovic with orchestra accompaniment of strings and trumpet. www.mitosettembremusica.it

UNTIL 20 SEPTEMBER

A journey towards the modernity

UNTIL 18 JANUARY 2021

Made in Italy in Hollywood

Over 200 masterpieces from the most prestigious museums and collections around the world, set up in the grandiose spaces of the Juvarra's Citroniera at Reggia di Venaria. The defiance to the Baroque is launched by artists in the name of modernity with the experimentation with new forms and new communication languages developed between 1680 and 1750. A search that develops between Rome and Paris, the two poles of attraction of modern Europe, with which the Turin of those years entertains an intense dialogue of ideas and exchange of works and artists, which contribute to an epochal season of renewal of the arts on the international scene.

“Dafying the Baroque” at Reggia di Venaria, Juvarra’s Citroniera www.lavenaria.it

Cinema, art and fashion. The exhibition at the Mole Antonelliana celebrates the extraordinary history of Italy’s Annamode Costume House, renowned for the creation of stunning costumes for blockbuster productions. An interactive, immersive exhibition featuring 100 costumes designed for 40 films, in which each garment is displayed like a work of art. Highlights includes costumes from films like La Dolce Vita, King Vidor’s War and Peace (1956), Vittorio De Sica’s Marriage Italian Style (1964), Guy Ritchie’s King Arthur (2017), Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette (2006), plus costumes for TV series The Witcher.

“Cinemaddosso. From Cinecittà to Hollywood the costumes of Annamode” at Museo Nazionale del Cinema www.museocinema.it – www.annamodecostume.com – www.cinemaddosso.com

UNTIL 28 SEPTEMBER

PH © PEROTTINO

At the end of form

The exhibition in the Wunderkammer Gallery at GAM Torino comprises a selection of about 50 vintage and little-known original prints by 7 outstanding Italian photographers belonging to major Italian photo archives and prestigious international art collections, as well as a choice of rare photography books. One of the first in-depth investigations on the experimental photography phase in Italian photography from the mid 1930s to the mid Fifties of the Twentieth century.

“Formless/Form. The non-objective phase of Italian Photography 1935-1958” at GAM Torino-Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna www.gamtorino.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER

The Royal Residences In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. B Y G I U L I A M I N E R O

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PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, and is only 10km as the crow flies from

Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts.

In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry.

The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy.

During the 17th century, it was converted

Reggia di Venaria Reale Chapel of Saint Hubert

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REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result of work by several prominent architects of

the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events.

Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it

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he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the bestpreserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite city-based residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.

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Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions.

The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org

Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga)

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Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

© MARCO SARACCO | DREAMSTIME.COM

Top destinations around Piedmont

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

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his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.”

This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today.

In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of changing colours and softly rolling hills.

Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge.

THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions

are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other mustsees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times.

The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it).

After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it).

In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats. If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself

to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it).

MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties.

Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels.

These works of arts, carved and modeled by artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www. ecomuseopietracantoni.it). Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www. enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy.

The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it).

Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com).

For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www. salsicciadibra.it).

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Serralunga d’Alba castle

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Museo Enologico Toso Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo is well worth your time.

Built in 1833, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world.

This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www. agenziadipollenzo.com).

In the heart of the Langhe area you can visit the Museo Enologico Toso, where its wine cellar holds the secrets and the hard work of the Toso family at its fourth generation. Toso is a company devoted to the research and development of red wines (from Barbera to Dolcetto) and white wines (from the Langhe Arneis to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG). www.toso.it

WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

All the magic of Turin

According to legend, and together with Prague and Lyon, Turin is part of a triangle of white magic, and of black magic with London and San Francisco.

As a result, it finds itself in the midst of an ongoing struggle between positive and negative forces and, according to experts, is crisscrossed by powerful force fields. (C.Z.)

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urin is a city of mystery, magic and legend.

Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel, where the Po and Dora rivers meet.

More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. It would appear that numerous points of the Piedmont capital, highlighted by esoteric and Masonic symbols, are crisscrossed by mysterious force fields.

This is why the city offers tourists numerous tours to discover these places. These include Torino Occulta, a tour dedicated to black magic and the occult arts. The two and a half hour tour starts from Piazza Statuto, considered the city’s

‘heart of darkness’, and allows you to immerse yourself in the darker side of this city of two souls (www.getyourguide.it).

The Torino Magica® Tour also takes you along a fascinating route amongst sinister architecture, esoteric symbols, dragons and alchemic caves. The tour ends with a sighting of a veiled woman holding the chalice of the Holy Grail (see photo). This statue, which stands in front of the Church of Gran Madre di Dio, shows the woman holding a chalice in her left hand, a symbol that represents the presence of the Holy Grail in Turin (somewhere.it – www.musement.com).

A slightly different take on the subject is the Torino Noir tour. This evening walking tour allows you to delve into the darker side of the city by visiting the ancient Church of the Misericordia, and the underground prisons of the oldest court in the city, led by a guide who will enthrall you with stories about criminals, the plague and the sinister practices of witchcraft that took place in the Quadrilatero Romano (www.getyourguide.it). All tours are available in English, or other foreign languages on request.

SHOPS AND BOOKSHOPS DEDICATED TO ESOTERICISM > Esotericamente offers a wide assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans, tarot cards and cards from all over the world, incense, crystals and everything required for ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large and well-stocked. www.esotericamente.it > Arethusa. At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a comprehensive selection of publications dedicated to spiritual, mysterious or esoteric subjects, plus a wide range of tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com > Libreria Editrice Psiche publishes and sells works related to medicine, naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and numerology at its namesake bookstore.

Meetings, courses and themed seminars are also organized here. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

Virtual Tours of ITALIAN Museums Though some of the major museums in Italy are now open upon reservation, there are many other ways to discover their cultural offer without the need to book your seat.

Where? Online, of course! We've rounded up a selection of the Italian museums offering virtual tours and online activities to satisfy your cultural whims.

BY GIULIA MINERO

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ven now that the COVID-19 lockdown has come to an end, institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are providing their visitors with the chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions and even enjoy special activities comfortably from home. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice.

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Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Those who would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Fondazione Prada MILAN

Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. The foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo

and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. An online section, for example, enables visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – and their artworks online. Moreover, the “Finite Rants” online project features 8 different visual essays – which change monthly – commissioned to artists, filmmakers, intellectuals and researchers to test the efficiency of this intrument to express the author’s thought through images and visual communication.

Conversely, on Instagram the online project “Love Stories – A Sentimental Survey by Francesco Vezzoli” explores the emotional, love and psychological status of a vast online comminuty thanks to the new language of social media. >> Check the online collection at www. fondazioneprada.org

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”

Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice. Ph © Matteo De Fina

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” MILANO

The Milanese hub for science has enriched its cultural offer by powering its brandnew “Train Stories” augmented reality app, which is fully dedicated to the thrilling story of “Valigia delle Indie”, the train convoy that connected London to Bombay until the early 1900s. Through the app, visitors have the chance to walk along the train and discover the technological innovations in travels introduced by this special convoy.

Moreover, users can also use the app to explore the museum’s Railway Pavilion and discover the highlights, secrets and stories connected to each locomotive and train though the words of Mr. Marco Iezzi, the curator to the pavilion. >> Discover more at www.museoscienza.org

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE Google Arts&Culture, the innovative online platform by Google dedicated to the most important collections and artworks, has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca,

Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brandnew IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

AN ITALIAN HISTORY A rich online program powered by Galleria Campari tells of the the contents that are part of the brand’s Historical Archive, as well as the the museum and the space hosting it.

Some of the most iconic advertising campaigns by artists such as Marcello Dudovich, Fortunato Depero and Bruno Munari and modern and vintage objects can be discovered thanks to online guided tours powered with the 3D technology.

Book your tour by writing to galleria@campari.com

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Always thanks to Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Unique Italian Landscape The variety and beauty of its “landscape” is what makes Italy unique. This term is not always easily translatable but relates to the environment and the many ways in which man has transformed it, during its multifaceted history. The result is a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

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The Italian ‘Lake district’

Over the past few years, due to the influx of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water and the diversity of the countryside make the area a real outdoor recreation ground.

Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and DOP olive oil.

Mantua, the city of the Gonzagas

Though less well-known than Venice or Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated in Northern Italy on the banks of the River Mincio, is packed with art treasures.

Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Lombard city experienced its maximum period of splendour during the Renaissance, when its most famous masterpieces were executed. A renowned patron of the arts, Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio

Bologna, the university of Italy

Built in 1088, most historians agree that the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world. Thanks to the continuous turnover of students from all over the world, from medieval times to the present day, this university has made Bologna a vibrant city from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè Carducci, one of the most important Italian poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which I cannot regret, but I love it more because it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the historic centre with its porticoes and towers, streets and markets, and main square with the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly surroundings are also breathtaking.

Portofino, home to the ‘piazzetta’ and mysterious villas

With its narrow streets leading down to the sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olives groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence.

Tuscan

times, this beautiful coastal village has been a highly sought-after holiday destination.

And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino is a reference point for international tourism.

Although its hotels are astronomically priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are many anecdotes about the town which was used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after the tomb was opened and his villa became a site of sinister, inexplicable happenings…

Tuscany, the Italy that everyone dreams about

There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent works of Michelangelo and his marble statues.

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There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square.

There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique throughout the world. Ultimately, there are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians and foreigners. There are gently rolling hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding streets and stone houses scattered around the countryside. The Tuscan experience is bound to win over your heart. However, if you haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof!

Ah, the wonders of Tuscany!

northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts are located. The summer getaway for the rich and famous including financiers, big names in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to defend the shipment of the precious marble quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, thus making it an important crossroads for trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury shopping.

Forte dei Marmi: the sea of Tuscany

“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic and neglected. People are friendly and ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee

In addition to being the birthplace of a queen (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of

Naples and then…

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Portofino

Matera

are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee for yourself, and then purchasing another one for someone else who doesn’t have the money to pay for it.

Naples is the ideal starting point to explore the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the world.

Matera, the hidden pearl of the South

When it became the European capital of culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark ages, and is one of the most intriguing places in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the other, they overhang a gorge to create an incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist track, Matera has often been used as a film set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Passion of Christ’.

The Kingdom of Baroque

Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns.

Protected by UNESCO, and located in southeastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your heart and leave you awestruck. Although almost all of these towns existed during medieval times, they were razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693.

However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle of beauty: architecture, urban planning and the ornamentation of buildings constitute the crowning achievement of one of the last periods of the flourishing Baroque movement in Europe. An absolute marvel!

STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY originally covered the Colosseum. They were ‘recycled’ to build several historic Roman buildings including the Basilica of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.

Florence

Venice

Venice

With canals in the place of streets, and boats instead of cars, Venice, the city of a thousand bridges, spectacular facades, and breathtaking views, offers a dreamlike vision. This romantic city par excellence, has a wealth of historic and artistic treasures that would be difficult to find in any country other than Italy.

To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze wander over the lagoon.

How can one describe a city which originated in the Renaissance in just a few words? It’s impossible! The only solution is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It is really no surprise that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since there is not one centimeter that is not worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that you make time to lose yourself amidst its art and architecture, its history and its landscapes. There’s just one thing that you need to remember: this is the place where Stendhal experienced what was later to become known as the Stendhal syndrome…

Rome

Fifteen square kilometers and twentyfive-thousand attractions: Rome’s historic centre has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely photographed monument in the world, the Colosseum is considered one of the 7 wonders of the modern world.

The memory of its performances – gladiators, wild animals and naval battles – re-enacted in the arena have always fueled the fantasy of history and film buffs. However, everyone is aware of what happened to the 100,000 cubic metres of shining white marble that

Rome

Florence

Turin

A Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes which house shops and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

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WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

The “green” revolution Organic drinking is now an established tendency, a trend that is constantly growing in Italy, due both to the demand from consumers who are more sensitive to the themes of sustainability and to the increase in certified organic land, but also due to the increase in the numbers of new 26 W H E R E TMUI LRAI NN II SJEUPNTEE M 2020 B E R 2 020

wine bars solely devoted to organic, biodynamic or natural wines. In recent years lifestyles that are attentive to and respectful of nature have also led to the choosing of products with less impact on nature and with higher quality and improved production ethics.

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

E. Pira & Figli-Chiara Boschis, Barolo wine takes place on the grape skins in amphorae. Initially an idea for a few “wine anarchists”, this has nevertheless launched a major movement that has brought natural, biodynamic and organic wines to everybody’s lips. Indeed, today orange wines are appreciated by the public at large as the fourth colour of wine with its own specific identity.

Today we can say that green wines present themselves as being of excellent quality, produced with the necessary care and (often) flawlessly.

There are three main green categories, which it is important to get to know for an aware purchase, because organic, biodynamic and natural are not synonymous.

L

Querciabella, Greve in Chianti

et’s go back in history: the very first finds indicating wine growing date back to 7000 years ago and take us to Georgia, the cradle of wine, where amphorae have been found with traces of white wine inside them. Mankind gradually refined the method of producing wine, changing the processes of production and its nature (and often turning it on its head).

Around 20 years ago a trend of return to the origins began with the rebirth of white wines in the amphora, so-called “Orange Wines” (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Slovakia and Georgia), where the vinification of white

“The grape is Nature, wine is Culture” Frank Cornelissen, pioneer of green winegrowing in the Etna area (Sicily)

> Natural wine: it has not had any legal recognition by the European certifying bodies. The term groups together many winemaking styles inspired by the naturalness of the process, envisaging the smallest possible number of interventions in the vineyard and the wine cellar, the absence of chemical additives and of handling by man. In Italy there are various associations of producers that are carrying forward the idea of a “cleaner” viticulture.

> Organic wine: it is governed by European regulation 203 of 2012, which states that every producer of organic wine requires a certificate of compliance that allows the use of the mark or the wording on the label. It refers to the reduction of chemical interventions, both in the vineyard and in the wine cellar, with the limitation of sulphites, the elimination of chemical substances, the reduction of use of water resources and the prohibition of use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in the vineyard. > Biodynamic wine: in addition to being organic, biodynamic wines are produced following the spiritual vision of philosopher Rudolf Steiner and his idea of nature in equilibrium. Thanks to the phases of the moon, it is necessary to keep the land balanced in a natural way with all its organisms, with natural interventions and the use of only biodynamic preparations (natural composts) in given phases of the year. Although it is not yet recognised at legislative level, the Demeter association regulates the process with the maximum quantities for sulphites, no use of chemicals and a reduced use of machinery.

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

TOP 10

Here is a TOP 10 of different products and producers in the “green” sphere, who through experimentation, research and a huge amount of work have succeeded in creating a product capable of creating strong inspirations and emotions with excellent local products - thanks to the ever greater sensitivity of people towards authentic eco-friendly products.

Trentino-South Tyrol Pojer & Sandri – Zero Infinito Solaris 100% (resistant variety) 12% alc., organic sparkling wine, pet-nat www.pojeresandri.it

Lombardy Barone Pizzini – Animante Extra Brut, Franciacorta DOCG Chardonnay 84%, Pinot noir 12%, Pinot blanc 4% 12% alc., organic sparkling wine, traditional method www.baronepizzini.it

Liguria Rocche del Gatto – Spigau Senza Tempo 2011 Pigato 100% 13.5% alc., natural wine, orange wine www.rocchedelgatto.com

Friuli-Venezia Giulia Damijan Podversic – Malvasia 2015, Venezia Giulia IGT Malvasia Istriana 100% 14,5% alc., natural wine, orange wine www.damijanpodversic.com

Calabria Ceraudo - Grayasusi Etichetta Argento 2018, Val di Neto Rosato IGT Gaglioppo 100% 13% alc., organic rosé wine www.ceraudo.it

Piedmont E. Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2017 DOC Barbera 100% 15% alc., organic red wine www.pira-chiaraboschis.com 28 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

Mario Pojer e Fiorentino Sandri Barone Pizzini

Veneto Musella - Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2015 DOCG Corvina e Corvinone 70%, Rondinella 20%, Oseleta 10% 16% alc., biodynamic red wine www.musella.it

Tuscany Querciabella - Querciabella 2016, Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Sangiovese 100% 13,5% alc., organic red wine www.querciabella.com

Sicily Frank Cornelissen - Susucaru Rosso 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP Nerello Mascalese 85%, Nerello Capuccio, Minella Nera, Allicante Bouschet, Minella Bianco 14,5% alc., organic red wine www.frankcornelissen.it

Marche Pievalta – Curino 2016, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito DOC Verdicchio 100% 12,5% alc., biodynamic dessert wine www.pievalta.it

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Querciabella

Pievalta

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE We’ve compiled a short guide offering gift ideas: a great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments browsing the boutiques in the centre of Turin, while enjoying the discreet, elegant charm of the Piedmontese capital.

HERMÈS ▲ The Hermès table is distinguished by sophisticated porcelain. This “Voyage en Ikat” tall cup and saucer is inspired by Ikat, a weaving and dyeing technique that originated in Asia. More than twenty colours, centred on sapphire, ruby and emerald, are enhanced by 24-carat matte gold that come to life in designs woven “thread by thread”. www.hermes.com

VENINI ▶ The “Fazzoletto” collection in handcrafted opaline blown glass was designed by artist Fulvio Bianconi in 1948 and enhanced over the years thanks to the contribution of other famous artists. Venini’s works of art are among the precious offerings sold

by Rocca 1794, the Italian chain of luxury jewelry and watches. www.venini.com www.rocca1794.com

◄ TIFFANY & CO. These bar accessories are characterized by a geometric style that lends a modern edge to home designs: from the ‘Highball Diamond Point’ glasses featuring a textured pattern at the base, to a tray with a “Makers” cocktail jigger and ice tongs, each element from Tiffany’s silverware workshop is an ode to elegance. www.tiffany.it

LA VIA DEL TÈ ▶ Product quality and refinement in packaging: the brand offers customers a sensory journey into the world of premium brews including single-origin leaf teas, flavored blends, fruit infusions and herbal teas as well as La Via del Tè product lines.

Pictured here, the new “Rajasthan” variety, a sumptuous blend of black tea and spices, mixed according to the traditional recipe of Chai, India’s national beverage. www.laviadelte.it

◄ ALESSI Among the new proposals from the Italian brand in its path of research towards new interpretations of modernity is this “Mattina” bread box, conceived by Swiss studio BIGGAME. It is available as a multipurpose object complemented by a bamboo cutting board that acts as both a lid and a tray. www.alessi.com 30 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

▼ CULTI MILANO “Scented Granules” is a new way of perfuming the space that adds a decorative touch to every home. With Supreme Amber, Aramara, Mareminerale, Tessuto or Thé fragrances, the granules can be dosed at will, to personalize the scent and modulate its intensity. www.culti.com

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Turin’s temple of tea La Via del Tè has been synonymous with premium-quality teas, fruit infusions and blends permeated with the aromas of far-off lands, for more than 50 years. A treat, in all its aspects, for tea aficionadios By Giulia Minero

T

he story of La Via del Tè began in Florence in 1961, when young Alfredo Carrai travelled to China for the first time to deepen his knowledge of tea, the second most widely drunk beverage in the world, and to introduce its culture and consumption to Italy. More than 50 years later, the company is still helmed with the same passion by the Carrai family, boasting six mono-brand boutiques, including one located in the shadow of the Mole, where customers can immerse themselves in the magical world of tea. The Torinese concept store, which is situated in the heart of the city, revolves around an old-world “aromateque”, where glass jars containing a variety of teas from all over the world allow customers to 32 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

see, smell and select the infusion that best suits them. Here, amidst wood furnishings and shelves, customers can choose from among over 250 products including Oolong, white and whole leaf green teas from China and Japan, plus other precious varieties from India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Africa, scented blends, fruit infusions and herbal teas. The product range also includes classic tins, transparent fabric or cotton muslin tea bags, gift boxes and tea-flavoured delicacies, as well as a wide selection of teapots, cups and accessories in cast-iron, glass and porcelain from far-off countries. Connoisseurs or customers who want to try new blends can enjoy a regenerating cup of welcome tea from a samovar on a side counter.

>> Via Carlo Alberto, 1/I T: 011 837017. Map G4 www.laviadelte.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

The

Guidelines CLOTHING

MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 48-49).

SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers.

Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 24. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

MEN & WOMEN Antonioli This multi-brand boutique for men and women in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of unconventional, prestigious designer labels including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based on blending contemporary taste with alternative solutions in a practical manner. www. antonioli.eu. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19.

T: 011 883253.

Map G5

Boggi Milano Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product

that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza.

Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. Map E6

Caramello Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions.

The assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the queen of Madein-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz.

Caramello also has an outlet in the Crocetta district, showcasing last season’s collections at affordable prices. caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3

Kristina Ti The standalone store of Torinese brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed

by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space,

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Musei Reali or the Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our decision to describe them in special boxes.

The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.

All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

Put yourself in my shoes

In 2012, a year before founding Velasca, Enrico Casati worked in Singapore. He wanted a pair of elegant shoes, the kind that, like a well-cut suit, Italian men take for granted, but he couldn’t find what he was looking for. He teamed up with Jacopo Sebastio, his current business partner and, together, they established a new company with a clear mission. Their goal was twofold: to create elegant, timeless shoes for people who prefer elegance to passing fads, and to make Italian quality more accessible to those living in foreign countries. Initially, to keep costs to a minimum and facilitate contact, Velasca only sold its footwear online. The company opened its first venue in Milan, the owners’ city of origin, and later another one in Rome. At the end of 2017, Velasca opened a third branch in Turin, with the idea of “creating a meeting place where people who had previously placed online orders from afar could actually hold, touch and try on the products”. However, its mission has not changed. Velasca continues to manufacture Italian shoes, designed and produced in Italy by craftsmen who use their time-honoured skills to dress modern men. Unsurprisingly, the Velasca Bottega in Turin is located just steps from Piazza Bodoni, in an elegant, stylish district hosting print shops, art galleries and Baroque palaces. A ‘salotto’ where people can discuss the merits of Made in Italy while trying on lace-up shoes, boots, Oxford or formal shoes in the knowledge that they will fit to perfection Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 9475546. it.velasca.com - Map G6

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm.

It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.

Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577.

Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8.

T: 011 4407207. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632.

Map F4

ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3

HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: 011 546971. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5

ITALIA INDEPENDENT— www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704.

Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. T: 011 3852651. Off Map

L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320.

T: 011 5620678. Map E5 LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61.

T: 011 547136. Map F4 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447.

Map F3 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69.

T: 011 541276. Map F4 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c.

T: 011 4782004. Map F4

CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342.

T: 011 5613226. Map F4

MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5618744 Map F4

CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2.

T: 011 5066699. Map F4

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5.

T. 011 5625977. Map F4

PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. Map F4

34 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm.

Via A. Doria, 6.

T: 011 531348. Map F5

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s spring/summer 2020 collection draws inspiration from light, nature and the delicate shades of light neutrals.

SHOPPING located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4

SO San Lorenzo An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, soughtafter style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo.it.

Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531.

Map G5

Top Ten Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level space has been, since its inception, a reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural style is reflected in its meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, ranging from the avant-garde to the most prestigious international brands like Comme des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5

Verdelilla Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re

Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jamin Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed elegance and low-key femininity. www.verdelilla.it.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27.

T: 011 5172701. Map D6

DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange.

This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5

San Carlo dal 1973 Having abandoned its former vocation for bigname fashion brands, this multi-functional concept store focuses on collections based on a ‘no brand’

A new glass “jewel” by Damiani

The Damiani Group recently became the sole owner of Venini, the historic Venetian artistic glass brand founded in 1921, thanks to the acquisition of the final block of shares.

Damiani, the Italian luxury jewelry brand is distinguished by and embodies the same values of excellence, creativity and Made in Italy craftsmanship as the renowned glassmaker.

Venini is one of the prestigious brands that are offered by Rocca 1794, the only Italian chain of high-end jewelry and watches, epitomizing a world of luxury and exclusivity, in which the value of every object is the result of passion, dedication and know-how.

Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. www.rocca1794.com

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings.

Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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O IT IG ROLEX A N A RETAILER Master jewelers and I CO VIA ZI DE LaMercato Belle Histoire SA O since the 18th century, Rocca rates L watchmakers NT G CA IU Alimentare A C RM V IA L HI IO INE P I A Z Z A Located underneath among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches.

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The store offers a selection of DE EG Blancpain, Lange & Sohne, Longines, ChiesaBucherer, di LC IN AR Santa Chiara of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and MI almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with A Ulysse Nardin, Salvini and Venini. Rocca is NE M PIAZZET TA Chiesa di the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the DELLA RG the exception of French brandA Lilith, Spanish brand Sant’ A gostino acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of V VISITAZIONE IA HE S. RI entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated P I A Z Z Aprofessionalism Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki.

VIA CH Located San Giovanni T A Other Basilica V I A and expert consultancy.

BOU Chiesa del I Porta Palatina A Battista RA SA Cwith Mauriziana a visible gear mechanism reminiscent HER Carmineof those S A V O I A Giardino N D Mole highlights include a collection of strictly Italian-made in the shadow of the Antonelliana, its ON Jan Palach O RONDÒ IA ME VIA Museo di Antichità Chiesa di N V I boasting an used in watches. At its historic store, VIA VI footwear and a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.

A founder, first boutique C O Alberto Rocca,I Copened O RIVELLA Sanhis Domenico A FIL DE RT Museo DE GI IPP L E LA Astrua presents its US it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; O innovative, modern Vconcept, D ’A the 18th century. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.L L A at the end of IA EP CIT Area Archeologica GIO BA diP P EArte Orientale PE TA L LO JU contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather S I 3.30pm-7.30pm; VA DE del Teatro Romano Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm.

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B R Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199.

A L T: 011 TR San Dalmazzo 5621467/5629260.

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VI The historic boutique comprises two V TT IA OR IA floors, four hundred square metres, nine VI Chiesa di A todi VIA PR San Carlo Borromeo DE brightly-lit shop windows and top name IN L L’A CI PE RC IVE brands, including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, P I A Z Z A Chiesa di Santa Cristina AM SC PIAZZA OV ED CLN VI AD EO A CARLO Breitling, Venini, Salvini, Bulgari, Blancpain, O G IO Chiesa della EMANUELE II VA Visitazione A. Lange &V ISöhne, Ulysse Nardin, Baume N NI AS ● Rocca 1794 O LARGO VITTORIO AN & Mercier, Longines, Bliss and Tissot.C O R GI QU EM OL EMANUELE II INT SO IT VI I NO AN TI Its spaces, curated down to the last detail, M A A MA Chiesa Ortodossa TT U E show Rocca’s renewed commitment to RI rumena di Santa Croce E A OT Camera di commercio di Torino LE TI leria Civica Università Chiesa di Santa Pelagia VI TurinI Iand, together, reveal the brand’s A AN Moderna degli Studi di Torino TO revamped image. The store’s sophisticated, Teatro Vittoria N I O mporanea Madonna degli Angeli GR contemporary interior design revolves AM VI SC A I CA PIAZZA around the new open-plan laboratory.

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At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363.

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PIAZZA approach, giving way to a selected of including Rolex, Patek Philippe, V I A Jaeger-LeCoultre, M A R Iassortment A VIT TO AUSILIA TRICE creations by emerging designers.

Besides perfumes, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, R I O Panerai, AN VIA REI S essences, accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, LonginesDand .G S IUS EP Piccola Casa della Japanese and American designers, the store features Montblanc, Maison AstruaDivina 1860Provvidenza stocks Murano PE Cottolengo PIAZZA B E N Ecreations by Tudor, luxury a selection of apparel, homeware and hand-crafted glass by Venini, DE T T DELLA O FORCA Japanese items. accessories, Edward Green Cfootwear, Amouage OT TO A terrace with a bar welcomes customers wanting fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas.

LE Open Mon VIA C NG O S . Cto sip a cocktail or choose their I O favourite dish O 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.

R N HI S GE AR U O E that changes weekly.www. fromA the small Pmenu www.astrua.com.

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Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tue-Sat Piazza CarloGAlberto.

T: 011 5613873.

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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO Vicolungo The Style Outlets Torino Outlet Village

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

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Mondovicino Outlet Village

Located in Piedmont, just a short distance from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering year-round discounts.

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PIACENZA

BOLOGNA

Serravalle GENOVA Designer Outlet

The Mall Sanremo

VENTIMIGLIA

MAR LIGURE

Torino Outlet Village

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

MAR ADRIATICO

THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

RIMINI

PISA FIRENZE LIVORNO

SIENA

ANCONA Serravalle Designer Outlet

Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE and international brands, as well Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin, as a selection of carefully selected downtown Turin, this is the ideal Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, PESCARA eateries, guest services, and place to spend a stylish day out is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers CORSICA amenities for families, this is an where shopping, entertainment Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, and relaxation combine to setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful ROMA 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public satisfy all requirements. luxury designer brands with the surroundings and appealing holidays 10am-9pm).

The outlet is open 7 days a week beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from • WHERE: located in Settimo from 10 am to 8 pm.

• WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm.

MAR TIRRENO Torinese, just 15 minutes from the • WHERE: take the A4 Torinoand A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torinocentre of Turin, 30 minutes from Milano motorway and exit at exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at NAPOLI A free shuttle service, the main cities in Piedmont and 75 Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. minutes from Milan, near the exits service, departing at 10am from 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso from the A4 and A5 motorways, Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via the Outlet is easily accessible by front of the Porta Nuova train Scrivia and Novi Ligure.

Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning car. The outlet provides a daily station) is available from Turin.

• WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point shuttle bus service from the • WHAT: More than 300 prestigious featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available.

SARDEGNA city centre and a weekly service brands, including Armani, Missoni, designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 from the main tourist resorts in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com.

Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta.

Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted Casadei, at up to 30-70% less yearEnrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus accessories, footwear, homeware, also hosts art exhibitions, events well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and sports gear and personal care, with and other initiatives for an make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted year-round discounts of up to 70%. entertaining day’s outing. experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. www.torinooutletvillage.com www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it

DINING

The triumph of Fassona beef There’s a gourmet hamburger joint in Turin that serves certified high-quality Piedmontese Fassona beef.

A go-to address for dinner and also a mouthwatering aperitivo. By Chiara Zaccarelli

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iedmontese Fassona beef is a highquality, exceptionally lean meat that is renowned for its outstanding nutritional properties. It’s especially suitable to eat raw, either as a base for tartare or carpaccio specialties, but also when cooked in the “tagliata” (pan-seared) version or as succulent hamburger filling. The Fassoneria, a national franchise boasting two branches in the city, serves some of the best Fassona beef in Turin. The locale’s collaboration with Compral, an agricultural cooperative of breeders in the province of Cuneo, and Coalvi, the Consortium for the protection of Piedmontese beef, guarantees that the Fassoneria serves premium quality meat, from the Fassona Piedmontese breed, born 38 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

and raised in the region of Piedmont. The interiors of both branches, one in the via Po district, and the other near Porta Palazzo, are minimalist, contemporary and have an industrial inspiration, with wooden tables and boiserie, enhanced by touches of red, where the walls are hung with photographs of the breeders of the cooperative; as if to say “from the producer to the consumer”. The menu celebrates the famous Piedmontese breed with hamburgers and other specialties highlighting its quality and flavour to the maximum. As far as hamburgers are concerned, the venue offers a choice of twenty options, including several that are distinctly regional, some that are more international and, surprisingly, a selection

of vegetarian options. Must-trys include the Nocciolaburger, featuring Fassona beef coated with breadcrumbs and hazelnut grains, the Noburger with raw Fassona sausage and Piedmontese Toma, and the Zuccaburger, with Fassona beef, cream of pumpkin and crunchy bacon. In the evening, the locale also serves an aperitivo, featuring an array of international cocktails and an excellent selection of local wines, accompanied by small platters of Fassona-themed snacks and appetizers. >> Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 4.

T: 391 4667238. Map E2 Via San Massimo, 17. T: 011 885543. Map G6 www.fassoneriatorino.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www. cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino.

Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6

Casa Amelie

chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce.

Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3

Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’.

The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4

Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream.

Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3

A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premiumquality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com.

Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2

Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices.

With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3

Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, gardengrown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open MonFri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it.

Via Monte di Pietà, 23.

T: 011 2767661. Map E3

È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The

Catullo, the ideal place for a romantic fish dinner Every day at Catullo, located just a short distance from Parco del Valentino, the carefree, welcoming atmosphere of Southern Italy takes centre stage. Inside, in its contemporary dining space where elements in iron, glass and wood interact with brightly-coloured ceramics from Ischia, customers can sample a wide selection of antipasti, starters and main courses featuring the best of surf and turf, with a particular focus on fish-based dishes of Mediterranean inspiration. The ingredients, selected on a seasonal basis, are used to create pasta specialties ranging from the great classics like “Spaghetti alle vongole” or “Chitarrucce with lobster”, to more creative dishes resulting from the meeting of Northern and Southern Italian influences, including “Linguine in Crosta alla Catullo with seafood and porcini mushrooms” or “Black ravioli with red Mazara del Vallo shrimp and Pachino cherry tomatoes”. The restaurant also caters to the tastes of meat lovers with main courses that include more elaborate dishes like “Bison Rib Eye with a reduction of Nebbiolo” and “Ratte potatoes, braised veal cheek with celeriac rice” and mouth-watering grilled meats. Catullo also boasts a rich selection of Neapolitan pizzas baked according to tradition in a woodfired oven. Diners in the mood for romance can book a table in the restaurant’s outdoor area with windows overlooking the Po river and the illuminated Isabella Bridge, which connects the river’s two banks (www.ristorantecatullo.com).

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DINING Porto di Savona

Pastry Shops The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli

GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017.

PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake.

Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592.

TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional

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Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508.

Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano.

Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it.

Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250.

GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ from one another, this is a multifunctional space. Open throughout the day, it houses and open-plan workshop in the basement plus two rooms where you can sample and purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can find more tha 12 types of products, ranging from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake created exclusively to honour the city of Turin.

Particolar attention is paid to packaging. www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232.

T: 011 4249343.

Galleria Iginio Massari

CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72.

T: 011 4546151.

One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5

Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693.

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Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. torino.circololettori.it/servizi/.

Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4

ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence.

While the Piedmontese offerings are created

by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2

Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its

DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin.

Casa Vicina

© LIDO VANNUCCHI

Spazio 7

CANNAVACCIUOLO BISTROT TORINO Established to offer diners an elegant, unique experience, this restaurant highlights the essence of the famous Neapolitan chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland mixed and matched with those from Piedmont. The space has been designed in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui.

Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 CARIGNANO At the restaurant located inside the Grand Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the nearby region of Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with contemporary techniques and tastes.

Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea T: 011 5170171. www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 CASA VICINA Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who for five generations have embraced the region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality ingredients. The wine list is extensive and well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates with Eataly, customers can choose from the emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar.

Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto.

T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map CONDIVIDERE Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted

by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere.

Particular attention is paid to raw materials and to desserts that are served in a separate area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, guests can choose from an array of different Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by single-servings of desserts.

Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza T: 011 0897651. www.condividere.com Map H1 DEL CAMBIO Established in 1757, it was among the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional traditions, which he reinterprets with a creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth a visit.

Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it Map F4 MAGORABIN Just steps from the Mole, this starred restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You

can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini. Just a little further on, in the same street, the chef has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail bar with an adjacent pastry shop where you can dine, enjoy a drink or purchase delicious sweet treats.

Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com Map H4 SPAZIO 7 Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived here after working at several of Piedmont’s most historic restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: young, contemporary and open to innovation. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring regions in France.

Via Modane, 20. c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo T: 011 3797626. www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map VINTAGE 1997 As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition.

Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese specialties including truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for the past twenty years with traditional Piedmontese professionalism.

Piazza Solferino, 16H. T: 011 535948. www.vintage1997.com Map E4

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DINING Porto di Savona

coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002.

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Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries.

Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www. orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067.

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PIZZA

renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com.

Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3

Gusto Madre Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed

by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough-making techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easyto-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it.

Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6

TASTING EXPERIENCE & STREET FOOD Gofreria Piemonteisa If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast-based batter, without eggs or milk, these mouth-watering

waffles are deliciously light and topped with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese. Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4

Mollìca Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola.

At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can choose to have your sandwich filled with these or numerous other ingredients, all sourced exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737.

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Street Fish Although this might seem strange in a city like Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere.

Options on offer include fish tartare served in a corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you to watch the chefs at work, while the other half features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4.

T: 389 0010612. Map F5

A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers.

Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest.

Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage.

Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map

Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts.

Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers.

Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it.

Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3

Crudo fa la Pizza!

Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, 42 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

LE VITEL ETONNÉ Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com

DINING

Food glossary From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the worldfamous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes.

B Y C. Z.

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AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling

Bagna Cauda

PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.

VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven.

A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.

Piedmontese Mixed Fry

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PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables.

Not a dish for the faint-hearted.

of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together.

Bagna Cauda

Vitello Tonnato

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BAGNA CAUDA This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added.

Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you might find people avoiding you because you reek of it!

Bonet

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

A temple of contemporary art Located just outside the city’s vibrant centre, there’s a place that’s dedicated entirely to art where contemporary cultural languages take centre stage, amidst music, dance, literature and design. By Giulia Minero

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permanent display, giving way to site-specific exhibitions and projects commissioned to emerging artists and curators, whose works of art interact with the spaces hosting them.

These include “Platform. History of a Tree”, a videoinstallation conceived by Flatform and produced by the National Museum of Cinema, scheduled to run until 13 September. In this project the subject is a non-human living organism portrayed through moving images and sounds that have been localized in space, which then show the portrayed subject as an ideal witness to almost a thousand years of the history of an entire territory. >>Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo Via Modane, 16. T: 011 3797600. Off Map. fsrr.org

Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo

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stablished by patron and art lover Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, the Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo was conceived as an observatory on the latest artistic trends and contemporary cultural languages. Thanks to the contribution of young artists engaged in promoting diverse art forms, the Foundation aims to make contemporary art accessible to a wider, mixed audience. Located inside a post-industrial building since 2002, which also houses the starred Spazio 7 restaurant, the Torinese headquarters of the Foundation are characterized by their minimalist spaces, designed specifically to house and display contemporary art in a dynamic, continually evolving context. The artistic and cultural offerings transcend the concept of a

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Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, ecocompatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897.

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Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73.

T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6.

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to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518.

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J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; SatSun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday).

The ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site.

Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadiume-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486.

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Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’

The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed

by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December.

Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org.

Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280.

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GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee.

Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition

Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudoGreek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline.

Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top of the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563.

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© ENRICOALIBERTI ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea

shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294.

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PALAZZO CARIGNANO Built between 1679 and 1684 by Guarino Guarini, this impressive Baroque building in Piazza Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Musei Reali

Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe.

The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.

ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour.

BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’.

CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin.

GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces

by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries.

GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing.

MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre.

PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries.

PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.

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In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected.

Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens.

The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1.

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Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it.

Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2

Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4

Museo Lavazza Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations

and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum.

Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm).

Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621.

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Museo Nazionale del Cinema The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561.

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OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22.

T: 011 4365832. Map G4

Parco del Valentino Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available.

Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7

Museo Egizio

| SIGHTSEEING EDITOR’S TIP

Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works

by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’.

Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713.

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Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

Have you heard of Jean-François Champollion? A French archaeologist and Egyptologist and the director of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, he is the man who deciphered the mystery of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s expertise that we owe the defining statement: “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin.”

When mentioning Turin, he was referring to its unique and extraordinary Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian museum founded in 1824, the second in terms of the value and number of artifacts (around 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most widely visited museum in Italy.

The British newspaper “The Times” listed it as one of the 50 best museums on the planet.

Despite its longstanding history and historic

headquarters – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the museum is extremely modern in terms of both its layout and immersive visitor experience.

Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, the exhibition space was doubled, following massive renovations, and is now spread over four levels, three above ground and one below ground, organized in chronological order.

Here you’ll find mummies, tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t know where to begin your tour, get an audio guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and personalize your itinerary to suit individual requirements. A tip?

The Restoration Area on the first floor that allows visitors to watch animal mummies being restored. >> Museo Egizio Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4 www.museoegizio.it

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ESSENTIALS

Turin, the city of the Alps The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.

T

urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city.

From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy.

One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, 48 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana).

The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway

system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus.

Turin boasts an enviable geographic position.

It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions.

They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts.

It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’.

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Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services.

Caselle Airport Malpensa Airport

OPEN PHARMACIES

Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza.

T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5.

T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station.

T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org PASSPORTS

Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10.

T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino

Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone.

Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers.

Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter.

To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino

Fast train network from Turin PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS

Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min.

The most important railway station in Turin is Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, highspeed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including TGV services between Paris and Milan and other services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line.

TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it.

Airports TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) -

(16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. The junction is connected directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www.aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website).

One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12.

Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin to Milan Malpensa airport.

WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll only pay €5 for your ticket.

Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.

Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

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ESSENTIALS MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -.

The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway.

Information desk T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. www.aeroportoditorino.it CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre

of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in connection from Turin with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it

Getting around Turin GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000.

GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm.

Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver and GTT personnel are not allowed to return objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they can be collected after 48 hours from the time of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4.

Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753.

Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro.

ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their own car and staying in a hotel in the central area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival and departure only, filling out a form at the hotel reception (ask your concierge for more information).

In the same way it is possible to reach paid public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in the same parking lot with the request for transit authorization no later than 11am.

Tourist Information TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo

Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza

Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181.

Open daily 9am-6pm.

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the village and the medieval fortress; Line B to access various sites including the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting point: at any bus stop.

Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language commentary.

Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines).

Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin

© RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD

This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits.

For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.

50 W H E R E T U R I N I S E P T E M B E R 2 020

Where Turin Magazine

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

5 STARS Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Map E4-5 Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 • Map F5 4 STARS Ac Hotel Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off Map Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, 70 • Off Map Art Hotel Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19 • Off Map Best Western Crystal Palace Hotel – Via Nizza, 11 • Map E6 Best Western Hotel Luxor – Corso Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 • Off Map Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 Diplomatic – Via Cernaia, 42 • Map C3 Double Tree by Hilton Turin Lingotto – Via Nizza, 230 • Off Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • Off Map Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 Hotel Principe di Torino – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • Off Map Lancaster Torino – Corso Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map J Hotel – Via Traves, 40 • Off Map Nh Collection Torino Piazza Carlina – Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 15 • Map G5 Nh Torino Centro – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 104 • Map B4 Nh Torino Lingotto Congress – Via Nizza, 262 • Off Map Nh Torino Santo Stefano – Via Porta Palatina, 19 • Map F2-3 Novotel Torino Corso Giulio Cesare – Corso Giulio Cesare, 338/34 • Off Map Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map Starhotels Majestic – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 The Originals Hotel Turin Royal – Corso Regina Margherita, 249 • Off Map TownHouse 70 – Via XX Settembre, 70 • Map F3 Turin Palace Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, 8 • Map E6 Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 Villa Savoia – Corso Sicilia, 1, angolo Corso Moncalieri • Off Map

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