Where Milan n 130 August 2021

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

AUGUST 2021

W W W.WHEREMIL AN.COM

The Arch of Peace, at the edge of Parco Sempione.

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Don’t miss the open-air destinations celebrating summer in Milan!

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

Milan August 2021

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In love with Italy?

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A MISS BLE IT A UN

EXPERIEN CE AN LI

Discover & Enjoy Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Andrea Jarach Where® Publisher

www.welcometoitalia.com

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

W W W.WHEREMIL AN.COM

The Arch of Peace, at the edge of Parco Sempione.

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Don’t miss the open-air destinations celebrating summer in Milan!

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

COVER IMAGE: The Arch of Peace, at the edge of Parco Sempione. © kavalenkava/Shutterstock.com

www.wheremilan.com www.magzter.com Digital magazine store www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on Twitter @WhereMilan Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan Follow us on Instagram @where_milan

Contents 4 TOP IN TOWN

36 SHOPPING Fashion & Design

Pineider historic brand has recently opened its flagship store in the central via Manzoni.

50 TASTING Food & Wine

Discover the Mi View Restaurant in the Portello district, offering a breathtaking view and a refined cuisine.

58 LEISURE Entertainment & Tours

Where® invites you to a tour discovering the beauties of Lake Como in an electric car.

60 ITINERARIES Landmarks & Museums

The Casa degli Atellani and La Vigna di Leonardo, magnificent Renaissance landmarks located opposite Santa Maria delle Grazie.

38 STROLLING

62 ESSENTIALS Maps & Info

6 LANDMARKS

Milan has always something new to reveal, including key shopping streets, fabulous hideaways in the city and sought-after products.

Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Milan has to offer.

Several unmissable sites for a favourite sightseeing tour.

48 FASHION AND

Discover the city, starting from its main attractions and several not to be missed districts.

10 DISCOVER AND ENJOY

This month’s round-up of art exhibitions in Turin.

26 OPEN-AIR

CONTEMPORARY ART A walk around parks, gardens public spaces in search of contemporary artworks.

THROUGH MILAN

DESIGN OUTLETS

Don’t miss a trip to the city’s outlying fashion outlets, just a few kilometres from Milan.

50 A THOUSAND

SHADES OF ORANGE Latest trends or age-old recipe?

Discover the Orange wines, re-evaluated through history as superior products.

LAK OF

2 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021 VIA

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» MAP PAGE 64 Isola Chinatown & Porta Paolo Sarpi San Siro Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

AUGUST 2021

Where tips

VIA PORL E

the tourism sector is in great difficulties all over the world. We must therefore thank you who are reading us now because you are nonetheless the hope of recovery as the world slowly overcomes the pandemic.

We Italians have experienced all manner of crises and we have always overcome them by trying not to lose that smile of welcome that we once again give you today.

Whether you are our guest due to work, to pleasure or, simply, you have come upon these words via the Internet, the word is always “benvenuto, welcome”, either today or in a few months.

S

Dear friends and readers,

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Milan

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH

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M A G A Z I N E

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SMART CITY

PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.

T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.wheremilan.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com

Recommended by

MILANO LOVES YOU

CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

Milan city Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 Central Milan city Map: Mario Camerini © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 Metro Map: Courtesy ATM Milano Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2021

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Located just 15 minutes from Milan, Scalo Milano boasts over 150 stores of fashion and design brands with year-round discounts of up to 70%, and more than 14 restaurants. According to the five-year “Future Vision Plan” focused on digital transformation and sustainability, the outlet is about to turn into a smart city at the service of the local area in the upcoming years. Around 45 new shops are expected to open in 2023. www.scalomilano.it

OREFICI 11 Timberland, The North Face and Napapijri, together for the first time, has created an innovative space that naturally moves between physical and virtual: a new multibrand concept store on 3 levels offering a unique retail experience.

Discover a revolutionary shopping experience, hyper-digital and omnichannel oriented. www.orefici11.com

RINASCENTE A spot destination for the best brands in fashion, luxury accessories, jewellery, beauty, home&design collections. The Design Supermarket in the basement boasts classic must haves and new cults.

Then take a privileged look at the Duomo spires from the Food Hall on 7th Floor and explore gourmet foods at the Food Market. www.rinascente.it

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Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

ADI DESIGN MUSEUM A new information and research centre for design enthusiasts, the space dedicated to the permanent collection of the Compasso d'Oro, with selected objects from 1954 to the present day, was recently opened. It will also host temporary and in-depth exhibitions. www.adidesignmuseum.org

The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS IL MAGAZINE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI MILANO, CON 20.100 CAMERE THE MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE IN MILAN'S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS, FOR THE GUESTS OF THE 20,100 ROOMS AVAILABLE www.wheremilan.com/distribution

>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com

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MARCO BRESCIA © TEATRO ALLA SCALA

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DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”.

It houses a number of interesting museums 4 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently

one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala.

In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4

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BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years

ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots.

Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola

districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.

Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras.

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WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

PORTA NUOVA

AN UPWARD SPIRALING CITY

6 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

Porta Nuova is a sprawling − area, the result of a project of urban and architectural redevelopment involving the area that leads from the Porta Garibaldi railway station to Piazza della Repubblica, up to Palazzo Lombardia.

In 2005, an architectural − project curated by American real estate developer Hines focused on transforming the area into a technological hub comprising more than twenty buildings including skyscrapers, offices, cultural centres and urban residences.

Several of Milan and Italy’s − highest and most innovative skyscrapers, including the futuristic CityLife complex (visible in the background), are located in the Porta Nuova district. Among these, the Torre UniCredit –housed in the vibrant Piazza Gae Aulenti -,

the Torre Solaria – the highest residential skyscraper in Italy-, the Torre Diamante and the green complex of the Bosco Verticale featuring hanging gardens designed

by Stefano Boeri.

The large public − park in the middle of the neighbourhood, known as the BAM Biblioteca degli Alberi, extending over an area of 90,000 sq.m., was designed to provide a vast number of interconnecting pedestrian paths and to create a real botanical library. The park features over 450 trees and 90,000 different plant species, plus recreational areas, themed circular forests, teaching paths and pedestrian and bike paths. In summer, the park is also used to host outdoor concerts and events. www.porta-nuova.com

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WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

THE DUOMO'S TERRACES OVERLOOKING THE CITY

8 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

− After crossing the threshold of its 18th century façade in Candoglia marble, the interior of the Cathedral is revealed in all its majesty. One of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed over a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol of Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the largest of which measures 45 metres in height. Its inside columns measure 3 and a half metres in diameter.

The interior boasts an apse with a large rose − window, stained glass windows decorated with episodes from the Bible, chapels and high marble columns with capitals featuring statues of saints.

To experience the Duomo at its most majestic − you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden “Madonnina”.

Here you can wander among 135 spires and 3,400 statues.

Guided tours for small groups help visitors − learn about the secrets behind the Duomo’s construction. The tour starts from the back of the choir which leads to the Crypt housing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, and then moves on to the Archaeological Area where you’ll find the remains of the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti, dating back to 397 A.D. This is where Sant’Ambrogio christened St. Augustine. Next is the old Basilica of Santa Tecla (4th century).

Before accessing the Cathedral and its treasures, − visit the nearby Museo del Duomo, located inside Palazzo Reale. The museum houses more than 150 masterpieces from the 15th century to the present time, including statues, architectural models, plaster casts, terracottas and paintings.

If you’re on a tight schedule but want to learn − more about the secrets of the Duomo, you can take advantage of the new Duomo Milano App for smartphones, featuring images and content in 9 languages including Italian, English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese. www.duomomilano.it

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DISCOVER AND ENJOY

EgriBiancoDanza performance 10 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

PH © ELISA BERTOLI

Art, music and events in Milan are back to welcome visitors after a long season of closures and partial reopenings: an opportunity to return to the theatres and museums, symbolic places of culture, but also to experience the city by celebrating the summer with outdoor activities. And there's no shortage of highlights for next month!

UNTIL 21 SEPTEMBER

WELCOME TO THE THEATRE! After the long period of forced closure of artistic activities, the first weeks of reopening of Teatro Franco Parenti in May were dedicated to children with a series of shows and games at Bagni Misteriosi, a former bathing centre from the 1930s, located in the Porta Romana area. From June to September, on the other hand, the performances for the whole summer season, strongly desired by the great artistic director Andrée Ruth Shammah, resume at full pace with plays and dance performances. In the swimming pool of the Bagni Misteriosi the floating platform will be transformed into a stage with an arena with no less than 500 seats all around it, fully respecting the anti-contamination regulations. Other performances will take place inside the theatre in complete safety.

Among the appointments not to be missed in August, mention must be made of: “Scritto sul mio corpo”, with dancers from the Compagnia EgriBiancoDanza (31 August). A new choreographic project that creates interaction with the audience, with a dance about inner experiences and human fragility in this era of collective apocalypse.

Teatro Franco Parenti – Bagni Misteriosi Via Pier Lombardo, 14. www.teatrofrancoparenti.com

PH © ANDREA CHERCHI

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 9 JANUARY 2022

▼ PARADOXES OF CONTEMPORARY ERA

“Digital Mourning” is the first major solo exhibition devoted to French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa in an Italian institution, and it stems from a reflection on the current times and on the concept of life in our digital world. Resembling the scenario of an “amusement” park, the space embraces a large selection of works, including the artist’s most relevant installations and walk-through sculptures…. but the exhibition appears to come alive only through a series of narrative voices.

The association of the two words -“digital” and “mourning” - comes about in the encounter between an artificial world and the absence of life, in a dimension in which life itself is simulated by means of models specially created to understand its true essence.

NEÏL BELOUFA. Digital Mourning Pirelli HangarBicocca. pirellihangarbicocca.org

UNTIL 27 SEPTEMBER

▲ JEWELS OF TIME

PH © AGOSTINO OSIO

Milan’s house museum Poldi Pezzoli, a precious jewel of art and architecture, is devoting a new exhibition to man’s relationship with time, from antiquity to the threshold of the modern age: “La Forma del Tempo” (“The Shape of Time”) relates the iconography of time - with works from Titian to Bernini - with the technological advancement in its measurement, through the observation angles of science, literature and art.

The exhibition-dossier dedicated to the restoration of Andrea Mantegna’s “Madonna col Bambino”, inaugurated last 15 October, also continues, where it is possible to admire the “new” work by the Venetian artist which emerged during the various phases of restoration.

La Forma del Tempo Museo Poldi Pezzoli, Via Manzoni 12. www.museopoldipezzoli.it

PINACOTECA DI BRERA

PH © CESARE MAIOCCHI

One of the most famous painting collections in Italy, the Pinacoteca di Brera is specialised in Venetian and Lombard painting. Its exhibitions range from prehistoric to contemporary art, with masterpieces by 20th-century artists. A new feature marks this reopening: the BreraCARD, no longer a simple ticket, but a nominal card that entitles you to visit the rooms of the physical museum for 3 months and the BreraPlus+ virtual museum for a year!

Via Brera, 28. pinacotecabrera.org Compulsory bookings: www.brerabooking.org

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO ◄ THE MALDIVES ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF MILAN

At Acquaworld, Italy’s first and only indoor and outdoor water and wellness park, a brand new attraction has arrived: “Swim VR”, a revolutionary virtual reality system adapted to the water with which to experience floating surrounded by brightly coloured fish, sea turtles and tropical corals. Swim VR is worn like a regular diving mask and allows for virtual snorkelling in a very simple and natural way. The experience, which guarantees spectacular fun and has no age limit, is included in all-inclusive tickets. Compulsory bookings.

ACQUAWORLD Via G. La Pira, 16.

Concorezzo (MB). 30 minutes from Milan

CIVIC MUSEUMS

PH © GIANLUCA DI IOIA

The permanent collections of the city’s civic museums have also reopened in recent months preserving some of the most interesting works of Milan’s artistic heritage: the Musei del Castello, the GAM Galleria d'Arte Moderna, Museo del Novecento, Acquario Civico, Museo di Storia Naturale, Palazzo Moriggia|Museo del Risorgimento, the Museo Archeologico, Palazzo Morando|Costume Moda Immagine, Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano (see photo) are places worth visiting not only for their collections but also for the sober elegance of the period buildings that house them.

UNTIL 12 SEPTEMBER ▲ TRIBUTE TO ENZO MARI

PH © ALBERTO LAGOMAGGIORE

AT THE TRIENNALE

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A retrospective of over 60 years of activity dedicated to one of the main masters and theorists of Italian design, Enzo Mari, who died in 2020. The project is divided into a historical section and a series of contributions by international artists and designers, with site-specific installations and new works. The exhibition is completed by a series of video interviews conducted by Hans Ulrich Obrist that testify to Mari’s constant ethical tension, his theoretical depth and extraordinary ability to give form to the essential.

ENZO MARI curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist with Francesca Giacomelli.

Triennale Milano Viale Alemagna, 6. www.triennale.org

Maurizio Cattelan, L.O.V.E, 2010 (detail, marmo di Carrara).

Courtesy Archivio Maurizio Cattelan - Photo Zeno Zotti

UNTIL 20 FEBRUARY 2022

MAURIZIO CATTELAN, THE GREAT RETURN TO MILAN After more than 10 years, Milan hosts an exhibition dedicated to Maurizio Cattelan (Padua, 1960), an artist who often draws inspiration from historical events and symbols of society, highlighting its contradictions with an ironic and corrosive language. The Pirelli HangarBicocca hosts historical and new works that give life to a site-specific project not to be missed. The theme is existential concepts such as the fragility of life, memory and the sense of individual and community

loss. The long-awaited exhibition is on view in the Navate space at the same time as Neïl Beloufa’s exhibition, currently underway and extended until 20 February 2022 in the Shed space.

Maurizio Cattelan, Breath Ghosts Blind Pirelli HangarBicocca, via Chiese 2. www.pirellihangarbicocca.org

PERMANENT EXHIBITION

◄ ATLAS, AN EVOLVING PROJECT

Inside 5 exhibition levels of Torre, project “Atlas” hosts works from the Prada Collection displayed in a sequence of environments incorporating solos and confrontations, created through assonances or contrasts, between artists such as Carla Accardi and Jeff Koons, Walter De Maria, Michael Heizer and Pino Pascali, William N. Copley and Damien Hirst, John Baldessari and Carsten Höller.

In this photo: Tulips (1995-2004) by Jeff Koons, a bouquet of large coloured stainless steel flowers, part of the “Celebration” series.

Atlas Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco, 2. www.fondazioneprada.org

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

10-12 SEPTEMBER

FORMULA 1 REV UP

COMING SOON

Racing enthusiasts should make sure to pencil in 10-11-12 September in their diaries, the dates marking the advent of Monza’s Formula 1 Italian Grand Prix event. The race, in the historic track in the Monza park, is at its 92nd edition and Monza is also the race in which drivers reach the highest speeds in the world. Every year, visitors flock to Monza’s temple of speed to see the start of this amazing race, as magnificent F1 cars battle it out for a win on this world-famous race track during the Italian leg of the world Formula 1 Racing Championships. An unmissable appointment for all Formula 1 fans!

Formula 1 Gran Premio d’Italia 2021 Autodromo Nazionale Monza. www.monzanet.it

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PH © PAOLO SOAVE PH © PAOLO SOAVE

Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”. Via San Vittore, 21. www.museoscienza.org

PH © LORENZA DAVERIO

The Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” is ready to welcome visitors again this month. It will therefore be possible to visit freely the Leonardo da Vinci Galleries, the largest permanent exhibition dedicated to Leonardo the humanist, engineer and investigator of nature, the Space and Astronomy area, the temporary exhibition of satellite images of the Earth Fragility and Beauty, the EXTREME exhibition sections dedicated to elementary particle physics, Telecommunications and FoodPeople, the Sala del Cenacolo, the ancient refectory of the Olivetan Monastery of San Vittore and, finally, the Cloisters with the Loggias and Gardens of the Monumental building.

It is also possible to visit the space outside the Toti - the first submarine built in Italy after World War II, which has just been restored and can currently be visited thanks to the Toti Submarine Virtual Experience App; the area in front of the Vega vector - the 1:1 scale model of the first launcher developed by the European Space Agency and Avio; the Aeronavale pavilion and the Ferroviario pavilion - the striking Italian Art Nouveau station that recounts one hundred years of evolution of rail transport starting from the second half of the 19th century.

PH © ELENA GALIMBERTI

► DISCOVER THE SCIENCE MUSEUM!

Gud Idroscalo

▲ IDROSCALO: SPORT, WELL-BEING AND FUN

A few kilometres from the centre of Milan, the Idroscalo is a natural area, a family park where you can spend your free time and practice sports. Created in the 1920s as an airport for seaplanes, its large reservoir offers a wide range of facilities, with swimming pools, a beach, two adventure parks for all ages, and a protected oasis for butterflies. During the summer season, the park comes to life: there is no better time than the warm months to take advantage of the spaces and facilities dedicated to sport and fun, including the rental of pedal boats and boats or the possibility of water skiing, diving in the AcquaPlay or renting a bicycle for a nice walk in the park. idroscalo.org – www.idroscalomilano.com

22 SEPTEMBER – 4 OCTOBER

FACES AND VOICES FROM EUROPE

COMING SOON

Athens, Berlin, Milan, Rome and the island of Ventotene are the places from which the great photographic journey of the young artist Lisa Borgiani, in search of Europe’s identity, began. A work in progress that will visit many other European capitals and cities, where the protagonists are black and white portraits of city dwellers, immortalised as they answer the question “What is Europe for you?”. On show is an installation composed of the photographs and texts resulting from the author’s meetings-interviews, as well as three videos on the entire work carried out from 2019 to date. Created to bring citizens closer to the institutions and to increase interest in Europe, this project will have further resonance on the occasion of its presentation at the great international photography event MIA Fair: an appointment not to be missed on 10 October at Superstudio Maxi!

WHAT IS EUROPE TO YOU? by Gigliola Foschi Ex Fornace Gola. Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 16.

Inauguration: 23 September, 6pm www.whatseurope.eu

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO ► THE TRIENNALE LOOKS TO THE FUTURE

Vico Magistretti

UNTIL 27 SEPTEMBER

THE “REAL WORLD” OF IMAGES

For this new site-specific project conceived for the ground floor of the Podium of Fondazione Prada, Simon Fujiwara introduces audiences to the world of “Who the Bær”, an original cartoon character that inhabits a universe created by the artist. The world of Who the Bær is a flat, online world of pictures, yet one full of endless possibilities.

As visitors travel through the bear-like installation, they are introduced to the basic design and formation of the cartoon character before embarking on a series of adventures around its world. Told through drawings, collages, sculptures and animations, we witness Who the Bær in its perennial quest for an authentic self.

“WHO THE BÆR” by Simon Fujiwara Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco, 2. fondazioneprada.org

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PH © GIANLUCA DI IOIA

Les Citoyens

PH © ANDREA ROSSETTI

For info: www.triennale.org

PH © GIANLUCA DI IOIA

Until May 2022 there will be many activities, exhibitions, shows and cultural events which will make Triennale Milano a privileged place for culture in dialogue with the city, animating the spaces of the Palazzo dell’Arte and the Garden.

A history of almost one hundred years (in 2023 Triennale Milano will celebrate its first 100 years!), which in recent weeks has restarted with the reopening of the exhibition “Enzo Mari curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist with Francesca Giacomelli” extended until 12 September.

After the success of the 2020 edition, Triennale Estate will be back again as “Collecting Stories” (until 15 October) with a rich calendar of afternoon and evening events in the Giardino della Triennale: meetings, festivals, screenings, shows, concerts, performances, workshops for children and many other activities. Among the scheduled exhibitions, we would like to highlight “Vico Magistretti. Architetto milanese” (until 12 September) for the centenary of his birth, “Carlo Aymonino. Loyalty to betrayal” (until 22 August) and “Les Citoyens” in collaboration with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain (until 12 September).

Closing the next 12 months of programming will be the 23rd International Exhibition “Unknown Unknowns. An Introduction to Mysteries” which will open on 22 May 2022.

PH © SALONE DEL MOBILE.MILANO

COMING SOON

5-10 SEPTEMBER

DESIGN STARTS HERE AGAIN

It will be unique, original, unrepeatable: the 59th edition of the Salone del Mobile.Milano in a Special Edition will resume – after being suspended in 2020 due to the pandemic - under the banner of relaunching the economy and the design sector.

In the spaces of Fiera Milano in Rho, the event - which will be called "supersalone" - will not have the usual stands set up by companies to present their collections, but a collective exhibition, curated by Stefano Boeri, architect and president of Triennale Milano, assisted by young designers and international professionals.

At the fair, companies will present the best of their production of the last 18 months in a highly emotional and scenographic context.

Contrary to the usual, the event will be open to the public every day, with the possibility of purchasing new products at exclusive prices. And part of the proceeds will be donated to charity. In addition to the main location which will be the Fiera, several “urban” events will be held mainly at the Triennale Milano, the Teatro alla Scala and the ADI Design Museum.

A highly innovative event that “confirms, once again, the centrality of Milan as the world capital of creative innovation and social generosity”, as Boeri says, in view of the 60th edition of the Salone scheduled for April 2022.

It will be the best showcase for the large companies and small businesses that represent the fabric of the design supply chain and the place where international and Italian-made excellence will be highlighted. In synergy with the city of Milan, which is ready to welcome this great global event!

Stefano Boeri

Salone del Mobile.Milano "supersalone" Fiera Milano, Rho (MI). www.salonemilano.it

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

A TRIBUTE TO music

From the traditional summer festival at Castello Sforzesco in August to the concerts of the MITO SettembreMusica next month, Milan offers a wide range of events to immerse yourself in the world of music once again.

UNTIL 7 SEPTEMBER ▲ NON STOP SUMMER FESTIVAL

The ninth edition of “Estate Sforzesca”, the festival “of and for” Milan, boasts every night a live show: from world music to classical music, from cabaret to jazz, there are more than 80 events in the programme of the longest music, theatre and dance festival in Italy.

Some of the big names on the bill include Negrita, Nicolò Fabi, Francesco Bianconi, Colapesce Dimartino, Arto Lindsay, Jonathan Coe, Joe Bastianich+Mattew Leee and Fabio Concato, as well as Lo Stato Sociale, Venerus, Le Cannibale and Saturnalia. Finally, there is no lack of institutional collaborations with the Orchestra laVerdi, I Pomeriggi Musicali, Fondazione Cineteca, Civica Orchestra di Fiati, Teatro Franco Parenti, “La Milanesiana”, Società dei Concerti, Accademia “Teatro Alla Scala” and Milano Classica.

Castello Sforzesco – Cortile delle Armi Programme and info on yesmilano.it

18 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

Gabriela Montero

PH © SILVIA LELLI

8-26 SEPTEMBER

MUSIC THAT CROSSES TIME

COMING SOON In September, Milan and Turin will once again host musicians from all over Europe with 126 concerts that will play on the theme “Futuri”. A title that tells how composers have always written music that was perfect for their era but then bequeathed it to posterity, or composed for ears that did not yet exist. This is the challenge of music: to cross time after months in which time has been interrupted by the pandemic.

A symmetrical playbill for the two cities, an articulated and varied programme, but at the same time coherent, that gathers different proposals for different listeners, with many new proposals. Led by the great Artistic Director Nicola Campogrande, the festival opens on 8 September at the Teatro Dal Verme with the Orchestra Sinfonica Nazionale della Rai conducted by Fabio Luisi, together with pianist Francesco Piemontesi, and closes in Milan with the Orchestra del Teatro Regio di Torino conducted by Pablo Heras-Casado and in Turin with the Filarmonica della Scala conducted by Riccardo Chailly.

Other guests include pianists Ivo Pogorelich, Brad Mehldau, Gabriela Montero, Michail Lifits; violinist Sergej Krylov; tenor Ian Bostridge; accordionist Ksenija Sidorova.

PH © ANDERS BROGAARD.JPG

Riccardo Chailly

PH © JOHN KENTISH

Ksenija Sidorova

PH © FELIX BROEDE

Michail Lifits

12 SEPTEMBER

OPENING CONCERT AT LA SCALA

COMING SOON

laVerdi’s 2021/22 Season begins on Sunday 12 September with the traditional Inauguration Concert at the Teatro alla Scala. Claus Peter Flor will conduct the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano in two masterpieces by Liszt and Brahms, together with the brilliant piano talent of Mariangela Vacatello.

The programme includes Franz Liszt’s Piano Concerto No. 1 in E flat major S124 for piano and orchestra and Johannes Brahms’ Symphony No. 4 in E minor op. 98.

Tickets are already on sale online. For information and to buy tickets: laverdi.org Inauguration Concert by the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi Teatro alla Scala, 7pm Via Filodrammatici, 2 www.teatroallascala.org

Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi

PH © HANNINEN

MITO 2021 w w w. wh e reSettembreMusica t rave l e r. c o m 7 www.mitosettembremusica.it

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PH COURTESY © GIORGIO ARMANI

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Don’t miss this season’s protographic exhibitions dedicated to great figures: from renowned fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh to the revolutionary photographer Tina Modotti and a great woman, Margaret Bourke-White, emblematic protagonist of photojournalism in the XX century.

UNTIL 21 SEPTEMBER

ARMANI HOSTS LINDBERGH

This exhibition, curated personally by Giorgio Armani, offers an extraordinary overview of the work of renowned photographer, Peter Lindbergh. The exhibition is divided into three themes: portraits of “The Naked Truth”, the powerful ambience of “Heimat”, and images of “The Modern Heroine”. The photographer’s unique viewpoint, his idea of space and beauty, his unmistakable aesthetics and his sources of inspiration are revealed in a journey that goes way beyond the usual concept of fashion photography.

Heimat. A Sense of Belonging ARMANI/SILOS. Via Bergognone, 40. www.armanisilos.com

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© TINA MODOTTI @ MUDEC

A TRIBUTE TO photography

UNTIL 7 NOVEMBER ▲ THE REVOLUTIONARY

PHOTOGRAPHY OF TINA MODOTTI

Tina Modotti, an Italian photographer, activist and actress, has left an indelible mark on the history of contemporary photography: poor and forced to emigrate, Tina could have followed the career of an actress, and take advantage of her rare beauty for the easy obtaining of economic comforts but her choice of freedom leads her instead to the study and deepening of her innate artistic skills. She expressed her idea of freedom through photography and civil commitment especially in Mexico, a country that had welcomed her and of which she became an icon, but soon crossed the borders of the Americas, to be recognized on the world art scene.

TINA MODOTTI. Donne, Messico e libertà.

MUDEC Museo delle Culture, Via Tortona 56. www.mudec.it

UNTIL 10 OCTOBER

▼ LARTIGUE DISCOVERING HAPPINESS

After the great success in Venice, the exhibition dedicated to the French photographer Jacques Henri Lartigue (1894-1986) has arrived in Milan: an exhibition of 120 images and archive material traces his career from the beginning of the 20th century to the 1980s. An enfant prodige of photography who tells us about the rich and bourgeois Paris of the nouveau siècle, the horrors of the two world wars and in the 1970s and 1980s the world of fashion and the world of cinema, where he worked as a set photographer for numerous films. His eye for curious details and his irony are still very much alive.

PH © PAOLO DI PAOLO

JACQUES HENRI LARTIGUE. L’invenzione della felicità.

Museo Diocesano Carlo Maria Martini.

Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 3 – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95. www.chiostrisanteustorgio.it La Baule, 1979, Photograph by Jacques Henri Lartigue © Ministère de la Culture (France)

UNTIL 29 AUGUST

▲ ITALY IN BLACK AND WHITE

Margaret Bourke-White at work on the Chrysler building, New York City, 1934 © Oscar Graubner Courtesy Estate of Margaret Bourke White.

In 1959 Paolo Di Paolo was a 34 year-old who had been photographing for five years for the historic monthly magazine “Il Mondo” and its art director Mario Pannunzio; Pier Paolo Pasolini was a promising 37year-old writer (he was not yet a film director). The two young men, who did not know each other, were entrusted with a report on the Italian Summer Holidays. The result is an extraordinary story in pictures by Paolo Di Paolo accompanied by texts by Pier Paolo Pasolini, “La lunga strada di sabbia”.

“MILANO (fotografie 1956-1962)” is the second exhibition, and presents a selection of Di Paolo’s images dedicated to the city he was so in love with because it is so different from Rome: “It was like going abroad...”. An unprecedented gaze of a beautiful Milan and its former mists.

La lunga strada di sabbia | Paolo Di Paolo Pier Paolo Pasolini Milano. Fotografie 1956-1962 | Paolo Di Paolo Fondazione Sozzani. Corso Como, 10 www.fondazionesozzani.org

UNTIL 29 AUGUST

UNCONVENTIONAL LIFE

The exhibition features, in an entirely new selection, the most extraordinary photographs taken by Margaret Bourke-White, one of the most representative and emblematic figures of photojournalism.

Next to the photographs, a series of personal documents and images, videos and autobiographical texts, tell the personality of a great woman, her vision and her countercurrent life. Over 100 images from “Life” archive in New York trace the thread of the existential path of Margaret Bourke-White and show her visionary and narrative ability, able to compose dense and dazzling photographic “stories”.

Prima, donna. Margaret Bourke-White Palazzo Reale. Piazza Duomo, 12. www.palazzorealemilano.it

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PHOTO © DE LUNA

PHOTOS © MARTINA BONETTI

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

A NEW HOUSE OF ITALIAN CREATIVITY IS BORN

NEW

Milan has a new educational space and research centre, a dynamic point of reference for the design community but with the objective of informing the general public as well. The ADI Design Museum is dedicated to the Compasso d’Oro Historic Collection (from 1954 to today) and includes a permanent exhibition, a selection of in-depth temporary exhibitions, a meeting place, a bookshop, a cafeteria and a Junior Design Lab. In order to ensure an exhaustive interpretation of the history of design, the ADI Compasso d’Oro Foundation, the Triennale Design Museum Foundation and Assolombarda have set up the “Milan Association for the Design Museum System”.

This month we highlight the first temporary exhibition (until November), a historical reflection based on a sequence of “judicious couplings” of Award-winning designs: two dinner sets, two armchairs, two floor lamps, two desks, two street lamps and two runabout cars: an exhibition as a sequence of iconic pairs of Italian design, presented so as to underline the evolution of the species of certain objects that continue to be a constant part of our lives.

ONE TO ONE. The species of objects ADI Design Museum. Compasso d’Oro Piazza Compasso d’Oro, 1 (entrance from Via Ceresio, 7 Via Bramante, 42 – Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale). www.adidesignmuseum.org 22 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

UNTIL 3 OCTOBER

► “THE ITALIANS… TURN UP EVERYWHERE” *

PHOTOS © NICOLA MARFISI

*From the “New York Times”, 1982.

“Painting is back” is a title that sounds like a paradox, to tell what painting in Italy was in the 1980s, in a season that conveyed (like the current one) a strong signal of confidence in the future.

Mario Schifano, Mimmo Paladino, Mario Merz, Mimmo Rotella, Valerio Adami, Emilio Tadini and Studio Azzurro, to name but a few, were the courageous artists who brought painting back into the limelight in that decade, displaying a disruptive force and unique creative freedom that also gave them international visibility.

PAINTING IS BACK. Anni Ottanta, la pittura in Italia Gallerie d’Italia - Piazza Scala www.gallerieditalia.com

COMING SOON

17-19 SEPTEMBER

PH © ANDREA ROSSETTI

COURTESY: TRIANGLE GALLERY, MOSCA AND THE ARTIST

MODERN ART RETURNS TO MILAN

It will be the first art fair to return to Europe (organised by Fiera Milano), consolidating its international profile, with another record: that of being the Italian art fair with the widest chronological offer. The 2021 edition of Miart – Milan’s modern and contemporary art fair - will host 142 galleries, a third of which are nonItalian, from over 20 countries, divided into 5 sections. As always, it will be a showcase for established contemporary artists, modern masters and emerging young artists, with an eye also on signature design. Artistic Director of the 25th edition is Nicola Ricciardi.

MIART 2021 Fieramilanocity. www.miart.it

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

LAKESIDE DESTINATIONS

Lying North of Milan, each year the lakes of Lombardy attract millions of visitors thanks to their mild climate, breathtaking scenery, natural beauties and historic and artistic treasures.

Isola Bella (Lake Maggiore)

Lake Como is the romantic and worldly older sister of Maggiore and Garda and takes its name from the city of Como. “Must-visit” sights include the Gothic Duomo, the Romanic basilicas of San Fedele and Sant’Abbondio and the neoclassic Villa Olmo. Nestling on the banks of Lake Como in Lenno and currently owned by FAI – a private non-profit trust – Villa del Balbianello is a magnificent example of a perfectly preserved 18th century dwelling. Surrounded by a stunning, terraced panoramic garden, with a breathtaking view of the lake, the Villa is one of the area’s most romantic retreats. Standing on the tip of a promontory overlooking the waters of the lake, the Villa was chosen by director George 24 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

Lucas as one of the evocative settings for the famous “Star Wars” series. Lying just a stone’s throw northwest of Como is Cernobbio, a small fashionable resort frequented by the wealthy of Europe because of its deluxe hotel Villa d’Este and Villa Erba where director Luchino Visconti spent his childhood (www.villaerba.it). Continuing North, we find Isola Comacina a jewel of art and nature, rich in Mediterranean vegetation and one of the most important archaeological sites of the dark ages in Northern Italy (www.isolacomacina.it). In nearby Tremezzo, don’t miss a visit to the Baroque-style Villa Carlotta, featuring an Italian garden and sculptures by Canova. At the junction of the

southern arm of the lake lies Bellagio, also referred to as the pearl of Como, set in a strategic position to soak up the panorama.

Don’t miss a visit to the other lakes that are also easily accessible from Milan. These include Lake Orta, with the old Island of San Giulio, dominated by the Romanesque basilica, the Palazzo Vescovile and the monastery (by car from Milan: take the A26 autostrada and exit at either Borgomanero or Arona). Situated just moments from the lake, we find the UNESCO world heritage site of Sacro Monte di Varallo (16th century) with its magnificent basilica and reconstruction of the life of Christ in 45 chapels.

SANTA CATERINA DEL SASSO A hermitage perched on a rocky overhang According to tradition, the hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso (75 km from Milan) was founded in the 12th century by Alberto Besozzi, a rich local merchant who, after having survived a heavy storm while crossing Lake Maggiore, decided to give up his worldly goods and live the life of a hermit. The particular appeal of this hermitage (which contains important frescoes) is mostly due to its astonishing location, perched on a rocky overhang with a sheer drop down to the Lake. www.santacaterinadelsasso.com

PH © BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The shores of Lake Maggiore wash up on the banks of Piedmont and Lombardy in Italy, while its more austere northern basin lies in the mountainous region of Switzerland. The most famous island, lying just off Stresa – a small, elegant town, rich in neoclassic and liberty buildings and a shopping mecca boasting a myriad of boutiques – is Isola Bella, anchored like a fantastic ship-garden and dominated by the majestic Palazzo Borromeo, built in the 17th century and rich in art treasures, including the private collection of Milan’s most famous aristocratic family. The Borromeo clan also owned Rocca di Angera, an imposing fortress (12th-17th century) boasting opulent ambiences, of which the most famous is the Sala di Giustizia.

The “Rocca” also has a medieval garden (www.isoleborromee.it).

2021 EVENTS IN ITALY

Find the next year calendar on www.wheremilan.com

Dante 2021 Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of beauty and warm hospitality.

To commemorate the 700th anniversary of his death, a full calendar of initiatives has been created involving the three cities associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona and Florence) in the coming months, which will continue until Sunday 12 September 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti will climb onto the podium for a concert in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a performance that will also be repeated in Florence and Verona. The programme of events will reach its culmination with the inauguration of the Museum of the Italian Language at Santa Maria Novella.

SEPTEMBER 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org 4-17/9 | Venice | #VivaVetro (The Venice Glass Week 5th edition). www.theveniceglassweek.com 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com 5-10/9 | | Milan | SUPERSALONE and Fuorisalone www.salonemilano.it + Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org 8-26/9 | Milan | MiTo SettembreMusica www.mitosettembremusica.it 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1.

Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com 13-19/9 | Milan | Milano Artweek milanoartweek.comune.milano.it 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. www.orticola.org 17-19/9 | Pitti Fragranze | Stazione Leopolda (Florence). fragranze.pittimmagine.com 18-20/9 | Milan | HOMI Fashion & Jewels. www.homifashionjewels.com 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. www.runromethemarathon.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Mipel. mipel.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Micam. milano.themicam.com 19-21/9 | Milan | The One Milano. www.theonemilano.com 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.cameramoda.it 22-24/9 | Milan | Lineapelle. www.lineapelle-fair.

OCTOBER 2-10/10 | Milan | Milano Wine Week. www.milanowineweek.com

7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | International Alba White Truffle Fair. www.fieradeltartufo.org 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. www.routesonline.com 12-13/10 | Milan | SMAU. www.smau.it 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. www.eurochocolate.com 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). www.vinitaly.com 22-26/10 | Milan | TuttoFood. Milano World Food Exhibition. www.tuttofood.it and Host Milano. host.fieramilano.it NOVEMBER 5-7/11 | Turin | Artissima 28th edition. www.artissima.art 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | Merano Wine Festival. www.meranwinefestival.com 17-21/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano. bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. www.milanomusicweek.it 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. venice.whereitalia.com 25-28/11 | Milan | EICMA International Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition. www.eicma.it End of November | Venice | Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera Season. www. teatrolafenice.it DECEMBER 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of the Opera Season: "Machbeth" by Giuseppe Verdi (conductor: Riccardo Chailly). www.teatroallascala.org

Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European and world literature and represents an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, which for centuries has been considered the greatest work written in the Italian language and one of the masterpieces of world literature, describes a journey into the afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and suffering of the damned, the punishments to which they are subjected and the glories they have earned. A journey into history and mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and eternal feelings.

The main sites in Florence that will host the events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the University of Florence, the Accademia della Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di Dante Museum. www.700dantefirenze.it

This image by press photographer Massimo Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna. w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 25

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Open-air Contemporary Art

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Triennale Milano PH © GIANLUCA DI IOIA

Not just museums and art galleries! This season in Milan offers the ideal opportunity to discover a concept of culture that is somewhat outside the box. A walk around parks, gardens and public spaces in search of contemporary artworks in the open air is a valid - and no less fascinating - alternative for those who don’t have time for a visit to the traditional places of culture. BY GIULIA MINERO w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

I

n a city as cosmopolitan and open to innovation as Milan, it is no surprise that art finds a place even in unconventional locations, in dialogue with nature and urban architectures, blending in with them. Thanks to the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism, which has carried out an official mapping of public art in Italy, now those who love spending a pleasant time outside and who don’t have time on their side can find the visiting experience to suit them, to discover the sites of contemporary art in Milan.

“Needle, Thread and Knot” PIAZZA CADORNA

Places that are at a distance from each other, such as the fountain and the square of Cadorna Station, are joined together virtually by a yellow, red and green needle and knotted thread, a metaphor for the lines of the Milanese underground, which connected up the city as early as the 1990s. This is the meaning of the imposing work by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen that is visible outside Cadorna railway station.

PH © MICHELANGELOOP/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘Egg’

PIAZZA GAE AULENTI A glass ogival structure designed by Alberto Garutti at the foot of the UniCredit Tower reveals 23 chromed brass tubes, which, almost like long trumpets, create communication - also in sound terms - between different storeys of the building that are apparently distant and without any relationship with each other.

Piazza Gae Aulenti

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PH © DIZFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Idroscalo

PH © COSMO LAREA

Piazza Cadorna

PIAZZA AFFARI The name of this large statue outside the Milan Stock Exchange is the acronym for “libertà, odio, vendetta, eternità” (i.e.freedom, hatred, revenge, eternity), but the real meaning of the middle finger of sculptor Maurizio Cattelan is intentionally ambiguous.

A provocation? You be the judge of that!

Graffiti

Graffiti are among the undisputed protagonists of Milanese contemporary art. All areas of the city, particularly those around the San Siro Racecourse, are dotted with masterpieces by the exponents of local street art. Look out for them; they deserve much more than a photo.

Bagni Misteriosi

GARDENS OF THE TRIENNALE Two swimmers, a swan, a platform, a cabin and a fountain stand out, immersed in a small swimming pool, in the heart of the park around the Triennale Milano. The work, created by Giorgio de Chirico, refers to the artist’s childhood in Greece.

La Mela Reintegrata CENTRAL STATION

Heading towards the square outside the Central Station, why not stop for a while

Piazza Meda

to look at the large white apple made of marble powder and metal in the middle of it. It’s “La Mela Reintegrata” by Michelangelo Pistoletto, a curious allegory of a future in which science and technology finally blend with nature.

permanent open-air museum immersed in a marvellous natural setting stretches out for more than a kilometre, with sculptures by contemporary artists of international renown; it is known as the “Park of Art”. >> Discover more on luoghidelcontemporaneo.beniculturali.it

‘Grande Disco’, PIAZZA MEDA

The distinctive style of Arnaldo Pomodoro is immediately recognisable in the large bronze work a few yards from the Quadrilateral of Fashion. “Grande Disco” (Large Disk) is an abstract representation of man, previously inscribed in a circle by Leonardo da Vinci.

‘Il grande Toscano’ PIAZZA DEL CARMINE

In the heart of Brera, contemporary art is in dialogue with that of the past in the large bronze statue of classical inspiration designed

by Igor Mitoraj. The church of the Carmine in the background with the bust of the Great Tuscan in front of it is an image with a powerful visual impact.

Parco dell’Arte IDROSCALO

Just a few minutes from the city, the Idroscalo is a great idea for a trip into nature. Along the banks of the reservoir for swimming, a

PH © DELBO ANDREA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘L.O.V.E.’

Stazione Centrale PH © STANISLAVA KARAGYOZOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza del Carmine

PH © JOLANTA WOJCICKA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Unique Italian Landscape The variety and beauty of its “landscape” is what makes Italy unique. This term is not always easily translatable but relates to the environment and the many ways in which man has transformed it, during its multifaceted history. The result is a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

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The Italian ‘Lake district’

Over the past few years, due to the influx of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water and the diversity of the countryside make the area a real outdoor recreation ground.

Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and DOP olive oil.

Mantua, the city of the Gonzagas

Though less well-known than Venice or Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated in Northern Italy on the banks of the River Mincio, is packed with art treasures.

Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Lombard city experienced its maximum period of splendour during the Renaissance, when its most famous masterpieces were executed. A renowned patron of the arts, Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio

Bologna, the university of Italy

Built in 1088, most historians agree that the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world. Thanks to the continuous turnover of students from all over the world, from medieval times to the present day, this university has made Bologna a vibrant city from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè Carducci, one of the most important Italian poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which I cannot regret, but I love it more because it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the historic centre with its porticoes and towers, streets and markets, and main square with the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly surroundings are also breathtaking.

Portofino, home to the ‘piazzetta’ and mysterious villas

With its narrow streets leading down to the sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olives groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence.

Tuscan

Portofino

times, this beautiful coastal village has been a highly sought-after holiday destination.

And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino is a reference point for international tourism.

Although its hotels are astronomically priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are many anecdotes about the town which was used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after the tomb was opened and his villa became a site of sinister, inexplicable happenings…

Tuscany, the Italy that everyone dreams about

There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent works of Michelangelo and his marble statues.

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There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square.

There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique throughout the world. Ultimately, there are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians and foreigners. There are gently rolling hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding streets and stone houses scattered around the countryside. The Tuscan experience is bound to win over your heart. However, if you haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof!

Ah, the wonders of Tuscany!

northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts are located. The summer getaway for the rich and famous including financiers, big names in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to defend the shipment of the precious marble quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, thus making it an important crossroads for trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury shopping.

Forte dei Marmi: the sea of Tuscany

“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic and neglected. People are friendly and ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee

In addition to being the birthplace of a queen (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of

Naples and then…

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Matera

are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee for yourself, and then purchasing another one for someone else who doesn’t have the money to pay for it.

Naples is the ideal starting point to explore the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the world.

Matera, the hidden pearl of the South

When it became the European capital of culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark ages, and is one of the most intriguing places in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the other, they overhang a gorge to create an incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist track, Matera has often been used as a film set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Passion of Christ’.

The Kingdom of Baroque

Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns.

Protected by UNESCO, and located in southeastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your heart and leave you awestruck. Although almost all of these towns existed during medieval times, they were razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693.

However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle of beauty: architecture, urban planning and the ornamentation of buildings constitute the crowning achievement of one of the last periods of the flourishing Baroque movement in Europe. An absolute marvel!

STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY originally covered the Colosseum. They were ‘recycled’ to build several historic Roman buildings including the Basilica of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.

Florence

Venice

Venice

With canals in the place of streets, and boats instead of cars, Venice, the city of a thousand bridges, spectacular facades, and breathtaking views, offers a dreamlike vision. This romantic city par excellence, has a wealth of historic and artistic treasures that would be difficult to find in any country other than Italy.

To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze wander over the lagoon.

How can one describe a city which originated in the Renaissance in just a few words? It’s impossible! The only solution is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It is really no surprise that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since there is not one centimeter that is not worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that you make time to lose yourself amidst its art and architecture, its history and its landscapes. There’s just one thing that you need to remember: this is the place where Stendhal experienced what was later to become known as the Stendhal syndrome…

Rome

Fifteen square kilometers and twentyfive-thousand attractions: Rome’s historic centre has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely photographed monument in the world, the Colosseum is considered one of the 7 wonders of the modern world.

The memory of its performances – gladiators, wild animals and naval battles – re-enacted in the arena have always fueled the fantasy of history and film buffs. However, everyone is aware of what happened to the 100,000 cubic metres of shining white marble that

Rome

Florence

Turin

A Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes which house shops and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

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[ W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A]

Dream experiences To discover the beauties of the city or to try out special experiences, Welcome to Italia offers you some unmissable opportunities. Choose whether to take part in exclusive city tours or book the outdoor experience you’ve been dreaming of for the summer: www.welcometoitalia.com

PRIVATE LAST SUPPER EXPERIENCE

THE SPECIAL ONES BELLAGIO AND VARENNA, PEARLS OF LAKE COMO

A visit to two of the most beautiful villages in Italy, where you can admire spectacular views with a private boat ride. Aperitif or brunch.

CLICK & BUY

Your guide will take you on a journey through the discovery of one of the most important artworks in history.

Get to know Leonardo and his mind in a unique way with the insight that only a guide can provide.

CLICK & BUY

VIP DUOMO CATHEDRAL PRIVATE EXPERIENCE If you are looking for the most personable way of enjoying our Duomo this is what we are here to provide. See the inside, the rooftop using the lift and do not waste your time in line for a ticket, you will skip the line and have a great experience!

BUBBLES ON THE LAKE

Two-hour boat tour for a special moment with your loved one, or for a toast with friends in a magical atmosphere.

CLICK & BUY

CLICK & BUY

PRIVATE MILAN EXPERIENCE

If you have specific interests ranging from art history to fashion, photography or food, we will be happy to pair you with the guide that best suits your needs: a local guide takes you “behind the scenes” with the insight only a local can provide.

CLICK & BUY

FRANCIACORTA TASTING WITH PICNIC

Just one hour from Milan, in the fertile Franciacorta wine area, you can visit two prestigious cellars where a sommelier will guide you through a tasting of 5 samples of sparkling wines. The proposal also includes a delicious picnic.

CLICK & BUY

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Discover other experiences: www.welcometoitalia.com

ROMANTIC TOUR ON LAKE COMO

The experience of taste and relaxation between Varenna and the magical waters of the lake culminates with dinner in a panoramic restaurant.

CLICK & BUY

Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences.

www.welcometoitalia.com

Shopping

FASHION & DESIGN NEW OPENING

Pineider, timeless elegance The historic Florentine brand, synonymous with exclusiveness and craftsmanship in paper, leather goods and articles for writing, has recently opened a flagship store in the very central Via Manzoni.

R

efined vintage atmospheres pervade the 300 square metres of surface area of the new Pineider flagship store, with its sophisticated types of paper, precious pens and leather goods, both historic and contemporary. The ambition is to bring the products closer to the Pineider experience: in the former historic location of the first Feltrinelli bookshop, in fact, a space has been designed that is not simply a shop, but rather a place where you can experience the craftsmanship associated with the art of engraving on paper 36 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

and leather, test your abilities in calligraphy courses, choose your own ink or create a bespoke, absolutely unique product together with the Pineider master craftsmen. All this in the lounge area known as “The Writers’ Club” overlooking the courtyard of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum.

Proximity to Milanese cultural sites is one of the Florentine brand’s prerequisites, as it identifies its DNA in culture. From this perspective, the point-of-sale proposes to organise and promote microevents devoted to arts and passions such as music, literature, photography and the graphic arts, while always respecting the regulations and social responsibility.

The design of the space has been entrusted to the studio Paolo Badesco & Partners, which has realised an exclusive concept for the Florentine brand in a harmonious balance between past and present. The opening in Milan is now in addition to the single-brand shops in Florence and Rome, while the prospects of also developing digital solutions allowing a profound link between consumer and brand are increasing.

>> Pineider 1774 www.pineider.com Via Manzoni, 12. T: 02 36589137. Map F4

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

Luxury shopping

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan Illustration copyright © 2021. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

● Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique Under renovation

● Pisa Orologeria Temporary Rolex Area

Luigi Verga Orologi ● ● Rocca 1794

● Orologeria Luigi Verga

● Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 (under renovation) Temporary Rolex Area at Pisa Orologeria Via Verri, 7 (2nd floor) T: 02 76317726

◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521 ◗ Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

◗ Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 ◗ Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449 w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 37

SHOPPING

Strolling through Milan Milan, famed as one of the shopping capitals of the world, has always something new to reveal, including key shopping streets, the latest trends from abroad, fabulous hideaways in the city and sought-after products.

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE & VIA TORINO, TRENDY SHOPPING

Although high-end purchases can be made in any part of the city, several urban areas are also entirely given over to the business of luxury shopping. First and foremost, the Quadrilatero della Moda or Golden Quad, situated just east of the Piazza della Scala and a short distance on foot from the Duomo. This is where all the big designer names and most luxurious stores in the world cluster. The Quadrilatero set amidst four of Milan’s most expensive and prestigious shopping streets, namely via Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, via della Spiga and corso Venezia. It is here that the most important fashion designers of international repute offer their luxurious creations. It’s a real open-air shopping mall, where haute couture takes centre stage and a profusion of eye-catching window displays will make the eyes of even the most hardened fashionistas sparkle. Here, in the space of just a few hundred metres, you’ll find everything your heart desires, including boutiques, museums, restaurants and luxury hotels. If fashion is your thing and you’re interested in learning more about its history, then a visit to Palazzo Morando (www.costumemodaimmagine.mi.it), the headquarters of the museum of costumes, fashion and image, is an absolute must. Discover the world of fashion and glamour in this unique, magical pedestrian precinct (also featuring a number of small side streets dotted with glam boutiques). Well worth exploring from top to bottom.

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Piazza Duomo branches off into corso Vittorio Emanuele II which leads to piazza San Babila, and the nearby via Torino, which stretches as far as porta Ticinese (from here you can access the Navigli and the recently revamped Darsena). Corso Vittorio Emanuele and via Torino are the shopping meccas most frequently patronized by young, fashionconscious Milanese, in search of the latest trends.

These areas boast loads and loads of shops and it’s easy to get lost among the myriad offers of ever-changing, ready-to-wear fashion.

© BENNY MARTY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

THE LEGENDARY MONTENAPOLEONE

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DUOMO, THE HEART OF THE CITY

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Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan.

In the immediate vicinity, overlooking the various sides of the large square surrounding it, you’ll find several of the world’s most exclusive addresses. For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! By walking just a few steps from the Cathedral, in a north-westerly direction, you’ll reach the Castello Sforzesco, another of the city’s most symbolic monuments. The castle was the resident of the ruling families in Milan between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Today, it hosts several museums and one of the city’s best-loved green spaces.

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CORSO VERCELLI, A CHIC DISTRICT Corso Vercelli is a Milan’s ‘niche’ shopping street which is less busy and easier to shop in than the city centre, but is still packed to overflowing with small shops just waiting to be discovered in a distinctive atmosphere that is further enhanced by the passage of historic trams giving this street an almost retrò flavour. This is one of Milan’s most upmarket districts: a residential area, still inhabited by Milan’s upper crust, it epitomizes the traditional soul of the city and is distinguished by its air of sophistication, elegance and stunning

THE GALLERIA, A FASHION VICTIM’S PARADISE

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Another reference point for upmarket shopping is the picturesque, iconic and simply spectacular Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, home to the greats of fashion and several high-class restaurants: a unique destination whose upper and lower spaces are well worth a visit. After honoring the Milanese tradition of spinning around three times and firmly grinding your heel into the testicles of the bull depicted on the mosaic flooring, you can indulge yourself by purchasing something from one of the fabulous boutiques lining the Galleria.

EDITOR’S TIP | A GLANCE TO THE HISTORY A virtual masterpiece of eclectic architecture, it was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni between 1865 and 1867 to celebrate the birth of the Kingdom of Italy. By that time, the Galleria represented the greatest application of iron and glassbased technology to a civilian building. The majesty of its mosaics and the decorations of the buildings – now converted into shops, restaurants and offices – is naturally enhanced by the arching glass and cast iron roof (topped with a central glass dome standing at a height of 50 meters) which, together with its iron structure, was originally manufactured in France.

2h

SHOPPING

residential architecture. Here you will come across several trendy shops for all tastes, offering clothing, footwear, home décor and eateries.

What’s more the area is located just a stone’s throw from one of Milan’s most important attractions: the Last Supper, Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece admired each year by millions of visitors, the Parco Sempione, and the Triennale di Milano are also within easy walking distance, and, if you’re feeling energetic, you can easily push onwards until you reach the Castello Sforzesco.

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SHOPPING WINDOW

NAVIGLI, NICHE SHOPPING

2h

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© BORIS STROUJKO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Real Milanese trendsetters, those who would never dream of mingling with the crowds, shop in the Ticinese area and surrounding neighbourhoods.

Here, amongst the columns of San Lorenzo and the Navigli, you’ll find numerous trendy boutiques, niche labels and small vintage shops where, if you know how to look, it’s still possible to bag a bargain and find showrooms that sell to the public. Together with Brera, the Navigli is one of the most picturesque districts in old Milan. A favourite haunt of the locals for the city’s cherished aperitivo ritual, the Navigli and the Darsena – the city’s recently restructured old mercantile port – are a mustvisit stopover for visitors to Milan, who will find themselves seduced by the artistic atmosphere of its numerous painters’ studios. If you’re interested in discovering the city from a different perspective, treat yourself to a picturesque cruise on the Navigli (www.milancanalcruises.it).

CORSO BUENOS AIRES, THE LONGEST SHOPPING STREET IN EUROPE Since opening in 1782, Corso Buenos Aires has been one of the most important commercial thoroughfares in Milan where an increasing number of ‘maxi boutiques’ have taken up residence. A real shoppers’ paradise, it offers one and a half kilometre of window displays, with shops for all tastes and all budgets: sophisticated boutiques, alternated with trendy stores offering all types of merchandise and numerous bars for a quick snack. Its sidestreets abound in restaurants, many of which are ethnic. A saturdy afternoon favourite with Milanese shoppers of all ages.

BRERA, THE ARTISTIC HEART OF THE CITY

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This centrally located district is named after via Brera which, since the 18th century, has housed the famous Accademia di Belle Arti. One of the liveliest areas in the city, it was formerly populated by artists and bohemians and still, today, retains its characteristic atmosphere. Its narrow cobbled streets host a number of interesting chic antique shops, galleries, cafés, restaurants and bars. If this is where you’re headed, make sure to wear ‘flatties’, these cobbled streets were not originally designed for heels! The area is expanding rapidly and its neighbouring streets, including Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como, are home to several of the trendiest addresses in the city. In fact, as you walk through this historic district, you will be struck by the almost surreal atmosphere, and a treasure trove of small artists’ workshops, quaint shops selling canvases and paints and antique shops of this area. Highlights include the masterpieces at the Pinacoteca, the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, the Astronomical Museum, the oldest institute of scientific research in the city, and the Botanical Gardens, an evocative green oasis in the heart of the city. Brera never ceases to amaze and now, in addition to its picturesque artists’ workshops, countless boutiques showcasing rare essences are springing up, transforming Brera into a ‘district of Artistic Perfumery’.

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© ANTON_IVANOV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

>> INSIDER TIP

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Shopping hours are generally from 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break from 12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Make sure to always check ahead.

SHOPPING WINDOW

PORTA NUOVA, MODERN TIMES

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Beneath the imposing UniCredit Tower, one of the symbols of the Milanese skyline, you’ll find the newest and most modern part of Milan, home to the skyscrapers of Porta Nuova and Piazza Gae Aulenti (which is dedicated to one of the ‘greats’ of Milanese design), a real jewel of architecture and design with its increasing number of boutiques. This is really one of Milan’s most contemporary, fashionable districts, bursting with buzzy bars that cater to the traditional aperitivo ritual, a destination where hip youngsters are always in the limelight. In addition to the latter, the area also contains the Corso Como complex, where you’ll find some of the most famous and fanciest clubs in Milan alongside fashion and art hotspots. If shopping is your objective you’ll be spoilt for choice in piazza Gae Aulenti. The piazza hosts numerous bookshops, perfumeries and design or clothing shops.

EDITOR’S TIP | THE SKYLINE OF THE NEW CITY From piazza Gae Aulenti, you can enjoy a unique view of the district: just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale, nominated the most innovative skyscraper in the world at the 2014 International Highrise Award, the Diamant Tower with all the new towers of the Porta Nuova Business District, Palazzo Lombardia, the Lombardy Regional Government building, and Palazzo Pirelli designed by Gio Ponti.

STREET OF TIME In Milan, there are many evocative locations where jewellery collections are designed and handcrafted: exclusive lines that accompany those wearing them on a day-to-day basis, accentuating and highlighting their personalities.

Discover the best spots to buy exquisite “made in Milan” craftsmanship, a precious silver or gold jewel, a hand-made diamond encrusted accessory, or maybe a gift for your beloved one.

via Montenapoleone Several of the most prestigious watch manufacturers in the world have home in Milan.

Via Pietro Verri reconfirms itself as the “Street of Time” and Pisa Orologeria as the reference point of Italian high watchmaking, for the Milanese with refined taste as well as for an increasingly international clientele.

TORTONA, THE HUB OF DESIGN WINDOW

5 VIE, AN HISTORIC CORNER The 5 Vie, a district marking the convergence of 5 historic streets in the heart of the city, is another great area to source unique, original items. Boasting picturesque courtyards, artisan workshops and an oldworld atmosphere, this historic corner of Milan hosts several unexpected gems that will captivate the hearts of fashionistas and design aficionados alike.

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In the Tortona district you can find a mixture of artistic boutiques and cultural hubs including MUDEC-the Museum of Cultures (home to chef Enrico Bartolini’s 3-Michelin-starred restaurant) and the exclusive Armani/Silos exhibition space.

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SHOPPING

Get ready for sales!

Milan is the fashion capital of the world. In case you don’t believe this, various surveys conducted over the past few years have confirmed that Milan is the number one luxury-shopping destination: it is not surprising that the whole city is alive with shoppers during the eagerly awaited summer and winter sales.

WHEN >> In Italy sale times occur two times a year, according to the different Spring/ Summer and Fall/Winter seasons. Generally, they are held after Christmas, January-February for winter collections and July-September for summer collections, though the starting dates change from region to region. Sales generally last for 60 days and keep in mind: the earliest you go, the widest choice you will find!

WHAT >> First and foremost, remember that discounts are only applied to collections already on sale at shops and not to new in-store arrivals. According to the Italian laws, sales always refer to seasonal products belonging to

© ROSSHELEN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Sale time is an absolute must for shopping addicts: when it’s sale time in Milan the city is inundated with hordes of fashion addicts in search of desirable objects. To survive this-time fever you need quick reflexes, flat shoes, a well thought out plan and our invaluable suggestions.

Get a few tips to guarantee that you bag the best bargains. the outgoing collection. And it’s important to bear in mind that discounts are not fixed, but they can range from 5% up to 70% depending on the individual policy of each shop even if applied to all kinds of articles, from clothing to accessories.

WHERE >> While the so-called ‘Quadrilatero della Moda’, which includes via Montenapoleone, via della Spiga, via Manzoni and Corso Venezia, is the place that has the highest average price tags (followed by Paris, New York and London) and the largest concentration of the most prestigious designer boutiques, new highend shopping districts are gradually emerging. A suggestion: don’t limit yourself to the shopping streets in the centre… if you avoid following the crowds, you’ll be able to take advantage of a much wider choice! And if you want to take the maximum advantage of the sales experience, we recommend focusing on fashion outlets (several located out-of- town) that offer additional discounts on their collections (see page 30).

>> INSIDER TIP By the Italian laws, items bought on sale can be tried on, as well as full-price ones, but they can have stricter rules on returns.

While articles coming from new collections can be returned within 30 days, products with reduced prices can’t be returned unless flawed.

So, if you buy a reduced price dress or accessory, always pay attention to the fitting or to the size; if you make a mistake, maybe you can be given a voucher, but it’s at the shop owner’s complete discretion to agree.

FASHION HUBS IN MILAN CityLife Shopping District The largest urban shopping centre in Italy hosts 100 shops and eateries: fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home décor and high-tech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it

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Piazza Portello A small shopping district where a large hypermarket, over 50 shops, bars and restaurants overlook small squares and arcades. The trendiest brands of clothing and accessories, the best of technology, and sport, home and hobbies. www.piazzaportello.com

SHOPPING Outlet & More Malpensa Airport

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Piazza della Repubblica

Scalo Milano Outlet & More Duomo

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THE MILAN OUTLET

THE NEW SHOPPING OUTLET

scalomilano.it

The nearest Milanese outlet just 15 minutes from downtown. Scalo Milano is the ideal destination for fashion & design lovers, with a keen eye for Italian style. More than 150 iconic brands such as Cavalli Class, Twinset, Fratelli Rossetti, Testoni, Ferrari.

A whole area focused on interior design and furniture hosting leading designer showrooms: Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris, Bialetti among them. Join us with our free shuttle bus (from Repubblica or Porta Romana M3) and enjoy sales up to 70% off all year round.

DAILY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

JUST 15 MINUTES FROM HERE

150 EXCLUSIVE SHOPS OF FASHION AND DESIGN UP TO 70% OFF OUTLET PRICE

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THE MILAN OUTLET JUST 15 MINUTES FROM HERE

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150 EXCLUSIVE SHOPS OF FASHION AND DESIGN UP TO 70% OFF OUTLET PRICE

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Porta Romana

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15 min

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THE NEW SHOPPING OUTLET

150 EXCLUSIVE SHOPS OF FASHION AND DESIGN UP TO 70% OFF OUTLET PRICE

Linate Airport

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Locate Triulzi

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Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers.

1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund.

This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out.

• after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief.

• the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the

document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should recontact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otelloenglish-version/legislation

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SHOPPING GIOSA MILANO CUSTOM-MADE CROCODILE ACCESSORIES Surrounded by art galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans.

www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F4

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA HAUTE COUTURE FABRICS MADE IN ITALY A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts. Located in via Verdi, just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most up-to-date haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. Alipay payment accepted.

vallitessuti.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

IL SALVAGENTE FASHION OUTLET IN THE HEART OF MILAN Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of high end fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off.

This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags.

www.salvagente.com - Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16.

T: 02 76110328. Map H4

MANZONI24 NOBLE FURS, STYLE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP A warm, welcoming venue and the perfect place to be inspired, admire and naturally try on the various fur designs on display. Luxe collections of clothing, accessories and homeware for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Easy-to-wear garments featuring impeccably tailored lines in which even the noblest furs are adapted to suit a young, contemporary style.

Diverse materials meet and give life to new trends: quilted jackets pair perfectly with fur, fur enhances cashmere and the unexpected becomes a fashion item. Shop online available.

www.condorpelli.it - Via Manzoni, 24 T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

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WHERE TIPS ADVERTORIAL

PETTINAROLI STATIONERY PRINTS AND MAPS Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, it is considered one of the oldest venues in the city. On entering this unmistakably Milanese shop in via Brera, customers can breathe in the scent of the past, immersed in a timeless, old-world atmosphere. Since its inception, the shop has been a reference point for style and elegance in writing paper, business cards, printed documents, desk items, a vast assortment of prints and antique maps and photo albums in beautifully handcrafted leather according to time-honoured Italian tradition.

www.fpettinaroli.it - Via Brera, 4 T: 02 86464642-1875. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ HIGH FASHION COSTUME JEWELRY The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art.

Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name.

Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste.

www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

VIBRAM HIGH PERFORMANCE FOOTWEAR Milan’s first and unique Vibram® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram® sole.

vibram.com - Via Raffaello Sanzio, 6.

T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

OTTICA CHIERICHETTI HISTORIC WORKSHOP OF PRECIOUS FRAMES Located just steps from Porta Romana, it combines the allure of an old-world boutique with the most avant-garde technologies. Since 1914, it has been a reference point for the Milanese and eyewear aficionados in search of highquality prescription glasses and sunglasses that reflect their personal tastes. At this “historic workshop”, recently refurbished with a more modern look, while retaining several of its signature touches, including its beautiful, original wood period furnishings, customer service takes centre stage.

www.chierichetti.it - Corso di Porta Romana, 74.

T: 02 58314024. M3 Crocetta. Map F6 More info: www.wheremilan.com w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 45

SHOPPING

PH © BEPPE RASO

THE WORLD OF ARMANI

Giorgio Armani boutique

In Milan, Armani is not simply a fashion brand but rather an integral part of city life, deeply rooted in the city’s history.

Starting from the Giorgio Armani boutique in via Sant’Andrea, in the same location where in 1983 “King Giorgio” opened his first boutique: 1200 sq.m. where the past “is woven with the future” (www.armani.com. Via Sant’Andrea, 9.

T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4).

Don’t forget the Emporio Armani Uomo at Rinascente (2nd Floor), where you can find clothing and accessories for him (corner at Rinascente, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8852489. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4).

Armani/Casa

46 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

At the Armani/Manzoni31 you can also find the following Armani lines: Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino, Armani/Fiori, Emporio Armani man and woman, junior collection of Emporio Armani, EA7, Armani/Libri, Armani beauty (via Manzoni 31, T: 02 72318600.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4).

The Armani/Casa flagship store in Corso Venezia 14, with 16 display windows showcasing the brand's collection, is a reference point for interior decor, from furniture to lighting; from accessories to textiles (www.armani.com/casa).

Armani/Dolci

In Milan, a number of the coolest locations also carry the Armani signature.

These include Nobu Milano, the sushi restaurant (www.noburestaurants.com/ milan. Via Pisoni 1, T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4) and the new Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante open from morning until late evening (via Croce Rossa 2, T: 02 72318680. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4); on the ground floor, you can find the new large café, where one can sample and purchase fresh pastries made in-house or Armani/ Dolci by Guido Gobino products.

The aesthetic balance of the exterior remains unchanged, with the addition of a second outdoor dining area. On the first floor, there is the restaurant, open for lunch and dinner, with a luxurious champagne bar reception area at the entrance. Don’t miss the new delivery service at Emporio Armani Ristorante and at Nobu Milano.

The interior architecture of the new boutique has been inspired by style elements of the 1930s, the period to which the building dates back, but these influences have been used in order to develop a completely contemporary design.

The Armani/Silos exhibition space, opened in 2015, gathers over 40 years of the Armani universe, showcasing the designer's unique aesthetic. Four floors of innovative space host the permanent collection alongside temporary exhibitions, (www.armanisilos. com. Via Bergognone, 40. Map D6).

Armani dominates the centre of Milan with a large billboard at the junction between

Nobu Milano

New Emporio Armani Giardino

via Cusani and via Broletto (Map F4), for years one of the symbols of the city.

And, since 2011, Armani is also a hotel: 95 rooms, a haute cuisine restaurant, a luxurious SPA and magnificent panoramic views over the city (Armani Hotel Milano, via Manzoni 31. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4. www.armanihotelmilano.com).

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

Armani/Silos

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

SHOPPING

The bond between Giorgio Armani and Milan is a relationship made up of powerful feelings, which has generated important initiatives that have enriched the city time after time.

Armani/Spa

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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets.

Don’t miss a trip to these unique shopping destinations!

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality.

• WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan.

• WHAT: over 120 boutiques with a selection of Italian and international brands at prices reduced by up to 70% off the retail price and a Virtual Shopping Service allowing you to shop directly via WhatsApp, phone or email. www.fidenzavillage.com FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES A haven of luxury and elegance where 160 stores offer the very best fashion labels discounted from 30% to 70% all year round.

• WHERE: in Switzerland, just 50 km from Milan.

• WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than 250 top brands ,1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, an exchange office and various Tax Free refund points. www.foxtown.com FRANCIACORTA VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the famous Docg wines but also offers a unique shopping experience.

• WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi and exit at the A4 junction.

• WHAT: over 190 stores of Italian and international brands for up to 30-70% less all year round. www.franciacortavillage.it SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, it is located just 50 minutes away from Milan.

48 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice.

• WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia.

• WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands for up to 70% less all year round.

McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, in the province of Novara, this is one of the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day shopping.

• WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo.

• WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices up to 70%. Special selection of several of the world’s most coveted sports brands. www.vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan.

• WHERE: located in Locate Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a daily shuttle bus from downtown Milan (Piazza della Repubblica, 3 corner of via Turati) and straight to Scalo Milano in a few minutes.

• WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design

brands, including Cavalli Class, Twinset, Fratelli Rossetti, A. Testoni, Puma, a Ferrari store and 15 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris...) and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. Incredible entertainment program through the year with concerts, events and exhibitions.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items purchased here. Open daily: Design and Fashion: Mon-Fri 11am-8pm and Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Food: Mon-Fri 11am-10pm and Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. scalomilano.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE

A shuttle service runs from the centre of Milan to Scalo Milano with 3 daily departures.

Bookable everyday at scalomilano.it >> Departure from Piazza della Repubblica by Frigerio Viaggi www.scalomilano.it Piazza della Repubblica 5, corner of Via Turati

Departure from Scalo Milano

10.30am

12.30am

2pm

3.15pm

5pm

7pm

Five reasons why

1.

Bialetti

MILANESE STYLE ICONS Discover iconic items that are an absolute ‘must’ in the everyday lives of Milanese locals. Timeless objects like the quintessential ‘Bialetti Moka’ coffee maker, ‘Tacco 12’ stiletto heels, the typical Piquadro backpack for businessmen and the classic Italian Spritz Cocktail.

Liu Jo

Kartell

Twinset

Piquadro

2.

YOUR FAVOURITE BRANDS Get our free “I Visit Card” and enjoy an extra 10% off on the latest collections of your favourite premium brands including Cavalli Class, Kartell, Twinset and Patrizia Pepe.

Carlo Pazolini

3.

JUST 15 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN MILAN Scalo Milano Outlet & More is closer than you think! Avoid Milan’s chaotic traffic and enjoy a 15-minute ride on a comfortable coach.

Get onboard! Our convenient daily shuttle connects Scalo Milano to the city centre throughout the day, for a truly carefree shopping experience!

5.

PAYMENTS & TAX-FREE SHOPPING International partners like Global Blue and Planet help you operate the tax refund process. After noticing a growing interest by international tourists, we decided to integrate our payment methods with Alipay and WeChat Pay, and create a tailor-made shopping card.

4.

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES

Discover the new Loyalty programme. Free and PICK UP YOUR TOURIST CARD digital, with "I Love Card" you get 10% discount, many dedicated advantages and every day you AT THE INFO POINT can win fantastic gift cards of 10, 30 and 50 €.

In addition, if you are a tourist, with 500€ AND ENJOY A 10% DISCOUNT. shopping we offer you a 50€ taxi voucher for a comfortable return. We have many other

150 exclusive shops up tofree 70% offfor outlet price.including the services your shopping, network Wi-Fi, power bank for mobile phones and children's area.

S13

LOCATE DI TRIULZI

DAILY SHUTTLE BUS FROM P.ZZA REPUBBLICA (NEWSSTAND) NEW STOP P.TA ROMANA M3

PH © ANDREA CHERCHI

Tasting FOOD & WINE

New gourmet trips... with a view

T

he Mi View is located on the 20th floor of the futuristic Torre JWC - World Join Center offering a breathtaking view over the Milanese skyline and is furnished in an elegant and contemporary style, over an area of more than 150 sq.m.

The menu focuses on seasonal ingredients and highlights the premium quality of niche producers of food and wine. Between the values that inspire the restaurant, a strong tie with local artisans and farmers, mostly Italian: this is the result of twenty-five years of experience in getting to know, studying and promoting 50 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

the best of artisan production and agricultural transformation. An experience acquired throught “Artigiano in Fiera”, the event that gathers every year under the same roof in Milan the best Italian and foreign artisans (artigianoinfiera.it).

A new evening format proposes 3 different “gourmet cuisine trips” highlighting the excellence of Italian cooking, transcending the officially accepted distinctions between antipasti, first courses, main courses and desserts. Executive Chef Christian Spagnoli has conceived “North South West East”, which envisages eleven regional stages, then “Nothing is as it seems”, which plays around with textures and aesthetics, and finally “Woodland and coastline”, the quickest, composed of a selection of five courses extrapolated from the other trips. And the desserts? Pastry Chef Domenico Peragine completes the trips with three delicious interpretations that are very exciting to discover. The “Milan View” lunch has also been revised and tips a nod to simplicity with a menu that is amended on a weekly basis.

>> miview.it. Viale Achille Papa, 30.

T: 02 78612732. M1 QT8. Map B1

PH © LORENZA MERCURI

Talk about a “dinner view”?

Discover the Mi View Restaurant in the Portello district, offering a breathtaking view and a refined cuisine, mostly Italian.

[WHERE TIPS]

Dining at the top 9

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DINING 10

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All the flavours of Milan We’ve rounded up some of the most interesting restaurants in the city: 10 destinations to enjoy Italian and international cuisine.

Check for each operating system for take-away and delivery services.

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A blend of style, creativity and fabulous flavours set within a NEW tranquil surroundings, on the outskirts of Milan. Original dishes in which the qualiity of every ingredient shines through. In 2021: two Michelin stars plus a new Michelin Green Star for gastronomy and sustainability.

San Pietro all’Olmo (Cornaredo).

Off Map – www.cucinapop.do

3

AALTO PART OF IYO It recreates a corner of Japan. Here you can enjoy a special okamase menu.

Starred Michelin.

4

PECK CITYLIFE

MOEBIUS

A delicatessen, a restaurant and a wine and cocktail bar: the gastronomic tradition meets the allure of a newcomer city.

Delivery service.

A warm atmosphere and a striking aesthetic, where you can listen to music, or stop for lunch, aperitivo or dinner.

A corner of Sicily in Milan There’s a place in the heart of Brera where you can rediscover the most authentic flavours of the cuisine of

www.aalto-restaurant.comModica and Scicli, in a setting boasting Piazzaa Tre Torri –Sicilian www.peck.it Via Alfredo Cappellini, 25 – moebiousmilano.it distinctive atmosphere. By Giulia Minero

5

W INSIEME Though deeply rooted in Mediterranean traditions, its cuisine is enhanced by a few unexpected ingredients.

elcome to Terrammare. An elegant dining room decorated with cement tiles recovered from old Sicilian residences and circular decorative elements, resembling those of a telescope, welcomes guests to the gastronomic universe of Terrammare. Here, amidst wood tables, majolicas and baroque elements inlaid in the boiserie and large decorative chandeliers, typical of Sicilian tradition, diners can sample authentic Trinacria cuisine, with a particular focus on the areas of Modica and Scicli. The menu aims to “bring contemporary Sicilian cuisine to Milan, in keeping with the constantly changing culinary scene, and consists of an abundance of blue fish, to respect the bio-diversity of the Mediterranean, creating an ideal union between the land and the sea,”

Via Giovanni Rasori, 12 – www.insieme.restaurant48

8

6

to echo the words of Chef Peppe Barone and Restaurant Manager Stefania Lattuca. The gastronomic offering is based on the use of authentic, local Sicilian produce that takes centre stage in dishes like ‘pasta with sarde’ revisited in a contemporary key, “cosciotto di coniglio glassato alla stimpirata”, with a sweet and sour sauce typical of caponata or “risotto milanese portato al mare”, a symbol of the combination of Sicilian and Milanese cuisine. Particular attention is paid to the choice of wines. The restaurant offers an extensive wine list ranging from the finest labels on the Sicily’s wine-making scene to small emerging producers and biodynamic wineries.

SOULGREEN

TERRAMMARE

For lovers of vegetarian-vegan cuisine, but not only, this bistro offers gluten-free fare and plant-based products.

In the heart of Brera you can rediscover the most authentic flavours in a setting boasting a Sicilian atmosphere.

>> Via Giuseppe Sacchi, 8 T: 3488 074828. M2 Lanza. Map F4 www.terrammare.rest

Piazza Clotilde - www.soulgreen.com

W H E R E M I L A N I F E B R UA R Y 20 20

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CAVEAU DI TRADIZIONI Culinary specialties and conviviality of Southern Italy meet innovation in this new gourmet restaurant.

Corso Sempione, 38 – www.caveauditradizioni.it

7

Via Giuseppe Sacchi, 8 – www.terrammare.rest

10

TOP CARNE

BERBERÉ

In the neighbourhood of the San Siro Stadium, tantalizing dishes with select cuts from the best breeders in the world.

Its success? Living sourdough, organic seasonal ingredients, easily digestible dough, a convivial concept.

Piazzale Lotto, 14 – www.topcarne.com

Several locations - www.berberepizza.it

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TASTING

TUTTE LEtasting “STELLE” DI MILANO Milanese Milan offers a cuisine featuring a number of truly unusual flavours. Here is a brief guide to make sure that you don’t miss out on several of the city’s best and most typical recipes.

Mondeghili

PH © ALTISSIMOACETO

TRIPE (OR BUSECCA) A hearty winter dish that will keep the cold out, its main ingredient is the stomach lining of sheep or cows. It was originally served to celebrate special occasions in the peasant world. Upgrades include the addition of oysters and caviar and can be sampled at Michelin-starred osteria, “Al Pont de Ferr” at the Navigli district (pontdeferr.it).

CASSOEULA Acccording to the history books, composer and conductor Arturo Toscanini was mad about this dish made from pork (sausages, pork rinds and spare ribs) and cabbage. For a taste of old-world Milan, suggest you try it at “Antica Trattoria della Pesa” in Via Pasubio (www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com).

MONDEGHILI Small meat balls fried in butter and oil and a signature dish of renowned chef Bruno Barbieri who has made them an art form.

You can taste the traditional Milanese meat balls at “Al Matarel” (www.almatarel.it).

Cassoeula

PH © STEFANOTRIULZI

COTOLETTA ALLA MILANESE Mentioned for the first time in1500 at the court of the Sforza, its “invention” was a source of contention with the Viennese who laid claim to its origin. According to the traditional recipe, the veal slices used should be at least as thick as a finger, coated in egg and bread crumbs and deep fried in butter. One of the best places to eat breaded veal cutlets in Milan is at “Da Giannino” (www.gianninoristorante.it) or at the “Al Garghet” restaurant (www.algarghet.it).

Ristorante Da Giannino

Tripe

PH © LORENZO CHINI

RISOTTO ALLO ZAFFERANO This is one of the few dishes boasting a specific “birth date”. In fact, legend has it that, on 8 September 1574, master glassmaker Valerio di Fiandra was presented with a dish of saffron-coloured rice at his daughter’s wedding feast after which time it became an iconic dish of Milanese cuisine. Master Chef Gualtiero Marchesi has transformed this delicacy into a real work of art, with the addition of a square of edible gold leaf! We also suggest trying its crunchier version: so-called “riso al salto”. Try the creative dishes signed by Carlo Cracco at his restaurant in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (www.ristorantecracco.it)

PANETTONE Boasting 500 years of tradition, panettone is a type of large, sweet bread, leavened very slowly and enriched with raisins and candied fruit. Amidst history and legend, the theories as to the origins of panettone vary widely. One of

52 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

TASTING

PH © AFRICA STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOC.COM

Cracco

>> INSIDER TIPS

Dulcis in fundo, are the city’s famous desserts, pastries and confectionery.

In addition to world famed Italian gelato, an absolute “must” in summer, year-round you can also try Milan’s traditional Tiramisù (although the main ingredient of the classic recipe includes coffee, there are also other variations on the theme) and Profiteroles, mouth watering chocolate coated puffs filled with custard. Finally, there are also a number of other typical delicacies that are prepared during the holiday season including Colomba (at Easter) and Chiacchiere and Frittelle (at Carnival) and panettone (at Christmas).

PH © NELEA33/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

the most romantic is the story linking its invention to Ugo, a young falconer employed by Prince Ludovico il Moro.

Ugo yearned to conquer the heart of the daughter of a poor baker named Toni.

To win her over, the nobleman disguised himself as a baker and invented a rich bread in which he added to the flour and yeast, butter, eggs, dried raisins and candied lemon and orange peel. The fame of the bread spread far and wide and became known as “Pan del Toni” (Toni’s bread). According to history, the tradition of panettone is documented by a manuscript conserved at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana dating back to the 15th century. Already at that time, on the night of 24 December, it was customary for the pater familias to place a huge log in the fireplace and to slice the large loaf of bread which he then distributed among those present.

From a gastronomic point of view, the distinguishing feature of panettone is that it is leavened two or three times. Its golden colour derives from the skilful combination of butter and egg yokes, while its overall beauty is completed by the orange, green and brown notes resulting from the addition of candied fruit and raisins. The gourmet trick is to warm it for a few minutes in front of an open oven or on top of a radiator before serving it.

• Breakfast time in Italy can be from 6am to 11am, depending on what time you got up, and it usually includes a cappuccino, which is a morning drink, and “cornetto” or other sweet pastries.

• Lunchtime usually ranges from midday to 2pm (that is why many of the shops of the shops close in these hours), dinnertime from 8pm to 10pm.

•Between 6pm and 9pm it’s aperitivo time, an Italian tradition started in Milan. If you’re feeling hungry between 3pm and 5pm then it’s time for you to have a “merenda”, a quick snack between the two main meals. Should you be hungry at late night, you can check several list of late-night restaurants in Milan.

• Never forget to check the restaurant’s weekly closing day, which – most of the time – will be Monday.

• Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised.

• In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory but it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction.

• Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread (usually between 1 and 3 euros per person).

• If you want tap water, you should specify it to the waiting staff of the restaurant or bar, asking for a glass of “acqua di rubinetto”.

• Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants.

• All restaurants and bars are nonsmoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

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TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE Abbazia Novecella

A thousand shades of orange Latest trend or age-old recipe?

Loved, criticised and the object of debate among experts, Orange Wines are wines from the ancient tradition, re-evaluated through history as superior products.

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

Gravner 54 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

TASTING

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation.

Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

A

s early as 5000/6000 years ago in the Caucasus (Georgia), Orange Wines were produced in buried amphorae. This technique was also used in the past in Europe, but after the two world wars it was completely forgotten. It was only at the start of the 1990s when a small group of experienced winemakers from Friuli revived it by experimenting with the ancient technique combined with modern scientific know-how, thus achieving excellent production levels.

Today there are wine-growers all over the world devoted to this outstanding product.

control, to allow a “spontaneous” fermentation; a reference to ethics, ecology and nature is therefore very much present.

Once the alcoholic fermentation is concluded, the winemakers proceed with the subsequent passage of ageing, which takes place, at their discretion, in glass, steel, amphora, cement or wood.

Depending on the white grape variety used, the period for which the skins are retained and the ageing method adopted, wines are obtained with colour tones ranging from ancient gold to topaz, from orange to amber; the hues can be bright, lively and intense, sometimes even with a certain opalescence, because they are not normally clarified and filtered and are, in any case, also virtually sulphite-free.

A HARMONY OF PERFUMES AND AROMAS TO DISCOVER If this is your first time tasting a macerated white wine, your nose and palate will be surprised by the flavours and aromas. We are not referring to the “skin-contact wines” of 20 years ago, which perhaps had a few defects due to incorrect choices in the vineyard or the lack of hygiene standards in the wine cellar; we are referring to more intense, mature, plant-based and balsamic scents, such as aromas of resin, Mediterranean maquis, pine and eucalyptus.

More enveloping, fuller flavours, with lively tannins (which make the mouth dry and rough) and mineral salts more present, which as a whole increase the body of the wine.

But beware, do not allow yourself to be deceived by your habits: if you do not “find” certain habitual signs and aromas, you must not judge these wines negatively solely because they diverge from traditional tastes.

What can you expect then? On the nose you will

detect notes of incense, propolis, smoke, tobacco, coffee, nougat, caramel. While for the family of fruity aromas we must imagine a mature, dehydrated, candied, baked fruit, preserved in alcohol (such as baked apple, candied lemon, dry fruit, cherry or plum preserved in alcohol)… and if we are referring to an excellent wine, there will be many other perfumes and aromas to discover.

As regards the fourth taste examination, the aftertaste, we can generally define this as long and persistent, with all the perceived aromas.

There is no real typical aftertaste of Orange wines, but only qualities that distinguish a “well made” product from one “made less well” and mean you are tasting a harmonious, persistent and elegant wine.

FROM FRIULI TO CONQUER THE WORLD The pioneer of the rebirth of macerated wines is an Italian producer, Joško Gravner. In the late 1990s he went against convention, overturning all the concepts of winemaking of that time.

During a stay in California, he encountered the presence of uniform, characterless wines on the market. He therefore decided to change direction and take a trip to the cradle of wine, Georgia. There he found the right inspiration and, returning to his winemaking estate in Gorizia (in Friuli), he began experimenting with vines, amphorae and ancient methods. This combination of ancient practices and modern experimentation made him famous all over the world. He was then joined by a close circle of local winemaking friends, such as Radikon, Maule and others.

A short documentary tells the story of Orange Wines since 1997, explaining in detail the origins of that wave that has now spread all over the world: “Skin Contact: Development of an Orange Taste”.

Gravner

HOW DOES VINIFICATION TAKE PLACE AND WITH WHAT DIFFERENCES? The difference between the various methods of production determines the more or less intense “orange” colour. In short, white wine is vinified as though it were red wine: so the grapes are not pressed and separated immediately after the harvest, but rather the components of the juice, skin and berries are allowed to macerate together for a variable period, from one day up to a few months. The maceration of the skins has the effect of extracting those substances that are responsible for the tactile taste sensation and coloration of the wine.

Fermentation usually takes place thanks to indigenous yeasts and without temperature w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 55

TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE

AUTHOR'S TIPS

Here is a selection of excellent macerated wines from the North to the South of Italy, which have maceration on the skins as the thread running through them, but with very variable times and methods, which may be differentiated by ageing in steel, glass, amphora, cement or wood.

Alto-Adige

Angiolino Maule

Abbazia di Novacella “Hora” Grape variety: Sylvaner 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.abbaziadinovecella.it

Sardinia

Dettori “Dettori bianco” Grape variety: Vernaccia 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.tenutedettori.it

Sicily

Frank Cornelissen “Munjebel bianco“ Grape variety: Grecanico Dorato 50%, Carricante 50% Maceration on skins: for 4 days Ageing: 18 months in fibreglass tanks www.frankcornelissen.it

Friuli-Venezia Giulia • Gravner “Ribolla Gialla Anfora” Grape variety: Ribolla Gialla 100% Maceration on skins: long maceration in buried Georgian amphorae Ageing: 5 months in amphora, then 6 years in large oak casks www.gravner.it

56 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

Damijan Podversic

TASTING • Damijan Podversic “Nekaj” Grape variety: Nekaj 100% Maceration on skins: for 60-90 days Ageing: 3 years in large casks, then 1 year in the bottle www.damijanpodversic.it • Skerk Grape variety: Vitovska 100% Maceration on skins: on average, 10 days in wooden vats Ageing: 12 months in small wooden vats, then 12 months in 50 hl wooden casks www.skerk.com

Veneto

Angiolino Maule “Pico” Grape variety: Garganega 100% Maceration: 2-3 days Ageing: 12 months in large 15 hl casks www.angiolinomaule.com

Skerk

Tre Monti

EmiliaRomagna Tre Monti “Vitalba” Grape variety: Albana 100% Maceration: 95 days Ageing: 10 months in Georgian amphorae (kvevri) www.tremonti.it

Lazio

Don Chisciotte Grape variety: Fiano 100% Maceration: 8-15 days Ageing: 8 months in steel www.ildonchisciotte.net

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Don Chisciotte w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 57

Leisure ENTERTAINMENT & TOURS

Welcome to green tourism

BY GIULIA MINERO

L

ake Como, with its landscapes and its resorts rich in history, is the ideal destination for a one-day trip in an electric car, thanks also to its proximity to Milan.

With the service offered by NoleggioElettrico, up to 48 hours before your departure you can choose the Tesla car that best meets your needs from the Model S, Model X or Model 3 and request delivery to your door, to your hotel or at the airport. You begin your tour in the direction of Como and discover some of its attractions, such as the Duomo, the Basilica of 58 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

Sant'Abbondio, Villa Olmo, the public gardens with the Tempio Voltiano and the Broletto, the city’s medieval municipal hall. After travelling through the town of Cernobbio in the silence of your electric car, you head north, to admire Villa del Balbianello. Located on the western bank of the lake, this eighteenth-century dwelling surrounded by terraced gardens boasts unique views of the nearby Isola Comacina and has been the backdrop for numerous films. If you have a weakness for the architectures of the past, a visit to Villa Carlotta in the town of Tremezzo is a must, maybe also making time for a pause for refreshments. Don't worry about consumption, however; the Tesla battery boasts a high level of autonomy and enables you to carry out your tour without any need for recharging. After visiting the villa, its art collections and botanical gardens, you head for Menaggio and embark, with your car, on the ferryboat that crosses the lake in the direction of Bellagio. Here, in the town considered “the pearl of the lake”, you can devote your energies to shopping, walking in the pedestrian-only streets

or visiting the Park of Villa Serbelloni. Then conclude your itinerary by travelling along the lake-front to reach the city of Lecco and visit its historic centre, but not before allowing yourself to be enchanted by the landscape that inspired Alessandro Manzoni’s novel “The Betrothed”. >> Book your electric car at www.noleggioelettrico.com or email info@noleggioelettrico.com Discover more about electric mobility in Italy at www.wheremilan.com/tips

PHOTO LAKE COMO © RASTO SK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The tourism of the future is green and highly personalisable. Why not try it in person with a tour to discover the beauties of Lake Como in an electric car?

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

Milan is the home of the Aperitivo Aperitivo and Happy Hour in the city are most definitely a ritual which no Milanese is prepared to forego

TYPES OF VENUES A myriad of venues, ranging from the smallest bars to larger, uberchic locations situated in the heart of the city, organize this event. There are 3 types of venues: design bars, traditional bars (the places that have written Milan’s history) and, the latest trend, all luxury hotel bars.

Brera

© BORIS-B / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE TO GO There are endless aperitivo options.

Several of the most famous are situated in Piazza Sempione or Corso Como and

Navigli offer a stretch of great bars with a glam vibe where, if you’re lucky, you might run into a famous super-model or footballer. Others also worth note, featuring a more laid-back atmosphere, can be found in Brera or the Navigli area. A sign of a popular place are crowds of young people spilling out onto the streets with a drink in one hand and a plate in the other. Unlike other countries, the Milanese are quite happy to stop at one drink, so things rarely get out of hand. A fabulous idea to relax at the end of a long day and the perfect opportunity to enjoy a fabulous cocktail paired with good food at affordable prices.

INSIDER TIPS Drink prices range from about 7-10 euros although several of the more luxe, upmarket places might ask as much as 15 euros. Not only will you be paying for a more lavish buffet but it will probably also serve as your ticket to VIP and celeb watching. Milan is the capital of cocktail hour snacking and practically ever bar and club in the city offers some kind of happy hour, competing to offer the most alluring pre-dinner scene in town.

AFTER THE APERITIVO… In fact, during aperitivo hour, people start thinking about where to go for dinner, in a city boasting a highly eclectic offer.

There are three main areas dedicated to nighttime entertainment featuring a concentration of venues: • Navigli District: an area characterized by places offering live music, patronized by artists, models, musicians and university students. Must-try options are its boat bars and the area’s old osterie where you can sample an array

Piazza Sempione

of wines, cold cuts and typical cheeses.

• Brera District: an historic area boasting a warren of characteristic venues offering live music and, believe it or not, fortunetellers who are happy to predict your future for a small fee….

• Garibaldi district & Corso Como: this is Milan’s most fashionable area by night, where not only will you find a bevy of pizzerie, restaurants, pubs and discotheques, but also possibly chance upon showbiz celebs and sports heroes.

© TRAVELSH / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Aperitivo, the beloved Milanese tradition of pre-dinner drinks, is accompanied by complimentary “stuzzichini” and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Spreads range from traditional olives, nuts, cheeses and potato chips to awesome pasta dishes, “bruschetta”, cold cuts, crudités, raw fish and fruit salads.

Generally, lasting for 3 hours from 6 to 9pm (though most people rarely get there until 7pm), the aperitivo scene has become an evening meeting for people of all ages.

Cocktails – alcoholic or not – are expertly mixed and a Negroni, Negroni sbagliato (a delicious mix of prosecco, red vermouth and Aperol instead of gin) or a Spritz are Milanese specialities. Favourite beverages consumed during this beloved tradition in Milan include also the city’s renowned Martini, Prosecco or Campari, accompanied by an all-you-can-eat buffet.

w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 59

Itineraries

LANDMARKS & MUSEUMS

La Vigna di Leonardo has been opened to the public in 2015, just a short distance from the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie where Leonardo painted The Last Supper.

B Y S T E FA N I A V I D A

I

t’s one of the landmark locations frequented

by Leonardo da Vinci, an unknown piece of history, imbued with mystery. To mark the opening of Expo 2015, researchers excavated the plot where Leonardo’s vineyard once stood in the gardens of the Casa degli Atellani, a magnificent Renaissance dwelling situated in front of the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Partly renovated by architect Portaluppi, who lived here, this historical palazzo is the only 60 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

building in corso Magenta that still retains its Renaissance appearance intact.

The House and Vineyard museum tour is divided into seven designated areas (the courtyards of Piero Portaluppi, the Zodiac Hall, the Luini Hall, Ettore Conti’s studio, the Staircase Hall, the Garden of Earthly Delights – the novellas of Matteo Bandello and Leonardo’s Vineyard). The tour is enhanced by audio guide commentary and descriptive panels located along the way.

Lasting for roughly 30 minutes, the tour caters to groups consisting of a maximum of 25 people every 15 minutes.

Audio guides are available in 10 languages (English, German, French, Spanish, Japanese, Korean, Portuguese, Chinese, Russian and Italian) plus a version in Milanese dialect.

Open daily from 9am to 6pm. >> La Vigna di Leonardo (Casa degli Atellani). Corso Magenta, 65. www.vignadileonardo.com

Zodiac Hall

PHOTOS © FILIPPO ROMANO

In the footsteps of Leonardo da Vinci

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

LANDMARKS Duomo Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed on and off over a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol of Milan. www.duomomilano.it. Map F4

Castello Sforzesco

Works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries.

The library contains one million books including manuscripts and prints. www.ambrosiana.it.

Museo Poldi Pezzoli It houses a remarkable collection of Italian Renaissance masters and displays weapons, ceramics, glass, textiles, clocks, watches and jewellery. www.museopoldipezzoli.it.

Map F4

Museo San Siro The first and only museum in Italy inside a Stadium, the San Siro Museum displays all kinds of historic items from two of the most successful Italian Football League clubs: A.C. Milan and F.C. Internazionale (Inter). www.sansiro.net.

GAM | Galleria d’Arte Moderna Inaugurated in 1921, it is above all a “nineteenth century museum” hosting mainly Italian and French works of art. www.gam-milano.com. Map G3

Last Supper One of the most famous attractions in the world, the “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large century mural paintig in the refectory of the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. www.cenacolovinciano.net. Map D4

Teatro alla Scala Inaugurated 1778, it‘s a not to be missed destination for ballet and opera lovers. www.teatroallascala.org.

Map F4

Leonardo3 – The World of Leonardo

Off Map

The exhibit allows visitors to appreciate the many sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic production with interactive stations, fully functioning machines, unprecedented physical reconstructions, digital restorations and threedimensional reconstructions of his creations. www.leonardo3.net. Map F4

Palazzo Reale One of the most important cultural centres in the city hosting exhibitions of international renown. www.palazzorealemilano.it. Map F5

Pinacoteca di Brera One of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy, it is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. pinacotecabrera.org. Map F3

MUDEC | Museum of Cultures

Navigli A widespread network of canals whose history is linked to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One of the most vibrant districts in the city. Map E6

A multi-disciplinary hub dedicated to cultures of the world with rooms hosting the museum’s collection and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bistrot, a design store, a cafeteria, a starred restaurant and a library. www.mudec.it. Map C6 Fabbrica del Vapore Museo del Design Italiano

Prada Foundation

Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, it hosts a selection of the most representative pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. www.triennale.org. Map E3

St. Ambrose Basilica

Museo del Duomo

One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it is a wonderful example of Romanesque style. www.basilicasantambrogio.it. Map E5

It houses and highlights all the material not presently in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. museo.duomomilano.it. Map F5

San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

Museo del Novecento

Known as the “Sistine Chapel of Milan”, this church has an interior some of the most beautiful Cityboasting Life frescoes in the city. Map E4

It hosts more than 400 masterpieces of Italian and international modern art – ranging from Fontana to Picasso – at the Palazzo dell’Arengario. www.museodelnovecento.org. Map F5Arena Civica

A real outdoor museum catering works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. www.comune.milano.it Map E1

Map D5

Housed in three historic buildings, it hosts masterpieces of 19th and 20th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo. www.gallerieditalia.com. Map F4

The Galleria with its elegant, four-storey arcade, housing over 55 luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4

Cimitero Monumentale

Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. www.museoscienza.org.

Ambrosiana Picture Gallery and Library

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Milan’s most futuristic urban space, redesigning both its skyline and character. A virtuous link with the Garibaldi and Isola districts: hi-tech stores, arcades, bookstores, cafés and the new green space “Biblioteca degli Alberi”. Map F2

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”

Map F5

The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. www.milanocastello.it Map E4

Porta Nuova

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES

Grattacielo A space dedicated to innovative projects

by Pirelli contemporary artists, established by arts patron Miuccia Prada. www.fondazioneprada.org.

Porta Nuova Map H7

Shoah Memorial of Milan A unique commemorative place that honours the victims of the mass extermination also representing a “living educational memorial” where people can actively experience the tragedy of the Shoah. www.memorialeshoah.it. Map H1

Triennale Milano One of the most vibrant exhibition centres in the city, it owns the most important permanent collection of design works and has a superb Palazzo della Permanente media library on design, art and architecture. www.triennale.org. Map D3 Palazzo Dugnani

Museo di Storia Naturale Home to valuable mineral, botanical and zoological collections.

Map G3 VIA www.comune.milano.it.

DELL’ ARTE La Triennale

Plane

Aquario Civico PPAC AC

Teatro Strehler

Milan’s Street of Art

900 METRI LINEARI

Palazzo Moriggia

PINACOTECA DI BRERA PALAZZO CITTERIO Castello Sforzesco TEATRO DELLA SCALA The city of Milan is enriched by an art circuit featuring the city’s GALLERIE D’ITALIA PALAZZO MARINO Teatro della Scala three main museum hubs: the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Gallerie GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE DUOMO d'Italia in piazza della Scala and the civic complexPALAZZO consisting REALE Teatro Dal Verme MUSEO DEL 900

of Palazzo Reale and the Museo del Novecento.

Palazzo Litta An itinerary extending over 900 metres, that can be crossed on foot in just 15 minutes, from via Brera to piazzetta Reale, cutting Santa Maria delle Grazie through piazza Scala and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, which hosts an extraordinary part of our country’s art history, thus making Milan a prestigious international art capital.

GAM

Museo Civico di Storia Naturale

Pinacoteca di Brera Palazzo Citterio Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Palazzo Morando

Museo di Storia Contemporanea Gallerie d’Italia

Piccolo Teatro

Chiesa di San Babila

Palazzo Marino Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

Museo Archeologico Palazzo della Ragione

Duomo

Biblioteca Ambrosiana 900 Chiesa di Sant’Ambrogio

Palazzo Reale

Biblioteca Sormani

w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 61 Museo Nazionale della Scienza

Palazzo di G

ESSENTIALS MAPS & INFO S7 S8 S9 S11 S2 S4 Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Cusano Milanino

Sesto San Giovanni

Cinisello Balsamo Bresso Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

Cormano Bruzzano S2-S4

RHO Fieramilano

COMASINA

Pero

Bovisa Politecnico S1-S2-S3-S4

Certosa S5-S6 -S11

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

MOLINO DORINO S. LEONARDO

3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

ISTRIA

LAMPUGNANO QT8

MOSCOVA

PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE CADORNA FN

PRIMATICCIO INGANNI

GIOIA GARIBALDI FS S1-S2-S5-S6 S11-S12-S13

TURATI

CRESCENZAGO CIMIANO

CAIAZZO

UDINE

LORETO

CENTRALE FS

LAMBRATE FS

S9

PIOLA

S1-S2-S5

REPUBBLICA S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 PALESTRO

Dateo S1-S2 S5-S6 S12-S13 P. Vittoria S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S14

SAN BABILA

MONTENAPOLEONE

DUOMO CAIROLI

CORDUSIO MISSORI

Forlanini S5-S6-S9

CROCETTA

S. AGOSTINO S. Cristoforo S9

CASCINA GOBBA

ROVERETO

S. AMBROGIO

BANDE NERE

VIMODRONE Vimodrone

PASTEUR

SONDRIO

LANZA

DE ANGELI

COLOGNO SUD

LIMA

LOTTO SEGESTA AMENDOLA

GAMBARA

CASCINA BURRONA

TURRO

ISOLA

MONUMENTALE

CERNUSCO S.N.

COLOGNO CENTRO

GORLA

Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

VILLA FIORITA

Cologno Monzese

PRECOTTO

ZARA

Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

PORTELLO

WAGNER

Greco Bicocca S7-S8 S9-S11

Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Automatic train to S. Raffaele

CENISIO

BUONARROTI

VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO NORD

MARCHE

MACIACHINI

GERUSALEMME

TRE TORRI

URUGUAY

SAN SIRO Ippodromo

CA’ GRANDA

DERGANO

Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11

DOMODOSSOLA FN

BONOLA

SAN SIRO Stadio

S2-S4

AFFORI CENTRO

Baranzate PERO

Settimo Milanese

CASSINA DE’ PECCHI

BICOCCA

AFFORI FN

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

BUSSERO

SESTO MARELLI

PONALE

S5-S6 S11

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

GORGONZOLA VILLA POMPEA

BIGNAMI Parco Nord

P.TA ROMANA

P.TA GENOVA FS

Segrate

S5 Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Novate Milanese

S5 S6

CASCINA ANTONIETTA

SESTO RONDÒ

Bollate

Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GESSATE

S7-S8 S9-S11

SESTO 1° MAGGIO FS

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

S1 S3

P. Romana FS S9

LODI TIBB

S6

ROMOLO BRENTA

FAMAGOSTA

BISCEGLIE Buccinasco

ASSAGO Milanofiori Nord

Cesano Boscone

CORVETTO P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO Chiesa Rossa

PORTO DI MARE ROGOREDO FS

Corsico

ASSAGO Milanofiori Forum

Assago

S1-S12-S13

S. DONATO

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

Rozzano

Opera

Peschiera Borromeo

San Donato Milanese

S9 Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 UNDERGROUND LINE 1 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3

Milan metro network

Urban passes fare limit

/ Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it.

T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm).

Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900.

Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes.

Can be used on buses, trams or the metro Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h.

Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro.

Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days from the day of the first validation until the end of the service on the third day.

Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro.

Check rates for the extra-urban subway. https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors.

62 W H E R E M I L A N I AU G U S T 2021

S1 S12

S13

/ Fare 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Step-free station (lifts)

Linea 73 per Aeroporto di Linate Line 73 to Linate Airport

Stazione accessibile (montascale) Step-free station (stairlifts)

Bus per Aeroporto di Linate, Malpensa e Orio al Serio Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports

ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: information and sales point

Malpensa Express

Linee ferroviarie regionali Regional railways

Terminal bus lunga percorrenza Long distance bus terminal

Interscambio con rete ferroviaria Connection with railway system

Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM ATM car park

BIKE SHARING - Public bicycle transport system

to be used for short trips. Available everyday, from 6am to midnight. www.bikemi.com KICK-SCOOTER - The most enjoyable ride

in the city is provided by Wind Mobility, Bit Mobility, Helbiz Italia, Bird, EM Transit, Ride Hive Operations, LMTS Italy, Govolt and Voi Technology.

CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. Purchase your Combo tickets for top attractions on board at special prices. www.zaniviaggi.com Map E4

Per gentile concessione di ATM Aggiornato il 19 luglio

Tourist Information INFOPOINT - TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN Piazza Duomo, 14 Multilingual tourist assistance and information; free distribution of maps and brochures.

Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it infotourist@comune.milano.it You can also find tourist information in the brand new office: YESMILANO TOURISM SPACE-CAMERA DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 A highly-digital environment created to "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it infotourismspace@mi.camcom.it

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Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

• EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

• PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

4h 01m

3h 40m

48m

Street markets (see map page 64) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters.

Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti)

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2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month.

Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO (STAMPS AND COINS) – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays.

Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo.

4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market. Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino.

5. ANTIQUE AND SECOND-HAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August).

Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo.

6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market.

Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org.

Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori.

7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, as well as street food.

Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm.

Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza.

9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists.

Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm).

10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance

T: 892020. www.italotreno.it TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Trains

Airports

TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’.

Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains.

• Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min For more info about the Italy-Switzerland railway connections: www.trenitalia.com or www.ffs.ch.

(www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304.

Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station.

Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca.

Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it).

Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949.

MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h.

T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it.

• Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’.

Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com).

T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it).

T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5. w w w.wh e re m il a n. com 63

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Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana

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ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine

5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars L'Hotel à Parfum – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2

4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Best Western Sure Hotel Collection Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Sure Hotel Collection Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Collini Rooms – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1 Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1

Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 Excel Hotel Naviglio - Ca' Bianca – Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP First Hotel Malpensa Airport – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Duca di York – Via Moneta, 1 • F4-F5 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Hotel Duca di Mantova – Piazza F. Caltagirone, 40-48 (Centro Commerciale Vulcano, Sesto San Giovanni – MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 IH ApartHotels Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Piazza Cesare Beccaria • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 IH Hotels Milano St. John – Via B. Buozzi, 97 – Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP INNSiDE by Meliã Milano Torre GalFa– Via G. Fara, 41 • MAP G1 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Matilde Boutique Hotel – Via Spadari, 1 • F5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Milano Verticale|UNA Esperienze – Via Carlo de Cristoforis, 6 • F2 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Morfeo Milano – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2

NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3 NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Palazzo Moscova – Via Monte Grappa, 12b • MAP F2 NH Milano Touring – Via U. Tarchetti, 2 • G3 NH Milano 2 – Strada di Olgia Nuova snc - Segrate (Milano 2) • OFF MAP NHOW Milano – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 Novotel Milano Malpensa Aeroporto – Via al Campo, 99 Cardano al Campo (VA) • Off Map Nu – Via Feltre, 19/b • Off Map NYX Milan – Piazza IV Novembre, 3 . G1 Oro Blu – Piazzale Lotto, 14, corner of Via Veniero • MAP B2 Osteria della Pista – Via Verbano, 1 (Casorate Sempione, VA) • OFF MAP Palazzo delle Stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 Palazzo Segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 Phi Hotel Milano – Via Falzarego, 1 (Baranzate) • OFF MAP Pioppeto – Via Strà Madonna, 15 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Radisson Blu – Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAP Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Ramada Plaza by Windham Milano – Via d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 Room Mate Giulia – Via Silvio Pellico, 4 • F4 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio, Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 Savona 18 Suites – Via Savona, 18 • Map D6 Senato Hotel Milano – Via Senato, 22 • E5 Sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport – Ferno (VA) Aeroporto Malpensa 2000, Terminal 1 • OFF MAP Starhotels Tourist – Viale Fulvio Testi, 300 • OFF MAP Sheraton Milan San Siro – Via Caldera, 21 • OFF MAP Silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP SINA De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 Star – Via dei Bossi, 5 • Map F4 Starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 Starhotels Business Palace – Via Privata Pietro Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAP Starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 Starhotels Grand Milan – Via Varese, 23 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 Starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 STRAFhotel&bar – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F4 Sunflower – Piazzale Lugano, 10 • OFF MAP Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • Map G1 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP The Square Milano Duomo – Via Albricci, 2-4 • F5 The Yard Milano – Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 • E6 Tocq Hotel – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 Trova il Tempo – Via Novara, 216 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Century Milano – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 UNAHOTELS Expo Fiera Milano – Via G. Keplero, 12 – Pero (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Malpensa –Via F.Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Mediterraneo Milano– Via L. Muratori 14 • H6 UNAHOTELS Scandinavia Milano – Via G.B. Fauché, 15 • C1 UNAHOTELS The One Milano – Via Maastricht, 3 (San Donato) • OFF MAP UNAWAY Contessa Jolanda Hotel & Residence Milano – Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Quark Due Hotel & Residence Milano – Via Lampedusa, 11/3 • OFF MAP Vittoria – Via P. Calvi, 32 • H5 Uptown Palace – Via Santa Sofia, 10 • F6 Windsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2 WorldHotel Casati 18 – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 WorldHotel Cristoforo Colombo – Corso Buenos Aires, 3 • H3 Vittoria - Via P. Calvi, 32 • H4-H5 Zara Milano – Viale Zara, 28 • OFF MAP

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The Arch of at the Peace, edge Parco Semp of ione.

Style by @D4LFASHIONCOUTURE

Come to visit Felice a Testaccio and discover our traditional menu.

Open every day for lunch and dinner

Via del Torchio, 4 20123 - (+39) 02.80506690 - www.feliceatestaccio.com