VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
AUGUST 2018
VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM
The Canal of Wonders One of the most authentic sides of Venice
LIDO DI VENEZIA An island, a town and a jet setter’s paradise
ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
Venice August 2018 18
the guide
SHOPPING
16 SHOPPING
The luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
6
HOT DATES
Giorgio Armani
32 DINING
There’s a new location at the Lido offering day-long dining, from breakfast to aperitivo time 38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
Parco San Giuliano
10
ISOLA DI TES
The Island of San Giorgio Maggiore opens to the public with the new Holy See pavilion
FOCUS
42 ENTERTAINMENT
Contents
VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM
An island, a town and a nature reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise.
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LE
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Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste!!
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Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.
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The Grand Canal. Photo © Shutterstock.
28 LIDO DI VENEZIA
A tour of the Grand Canal, the waterway that winds its way amidst spectacular palaces and picturesque bridges.
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
10 VENICE’S ‘GREAT
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Our pick of the best seasonal trends
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ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE
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An island, a town and also a jet setter’s paradise
Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer
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One of the most authentic sides of Venice
LIDO DI VENEZIA
MUR 44 ESSENTIALS
Where® has selected several art galleries renowned for their quality, tradition and originality.
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This month's round-up of shows, PO R Canal TO MARGHERA The art exhibitions and photography.
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Stretching from Padua to Venice, a tour on the Brenta Riviera is a poetic experience
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VENICE CITY GUIDE
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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
WELCOME TO VENICE venice.whereitalia.com
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If you are reading this magazine, you are very likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is because you are using quality tourist information to guide you on your stay in Venice.
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Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici DESIGNERS Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara
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This is because Where® is only found in the best luxury hotels in the major cities of the world. Your hotel is sure to be part of this restricted group of hotels. Just as you are part of a restricted group of travelers who stand out from the crowd. Who seek the best from every journey they make. And who usually have limited time available to get the best out of their trip. Two, three nights per destination. And the high-quality traveler wants to be sure of getting the most out of this short period of time. Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ® Italia
That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.
REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.
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IV Manning w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3
[ SIGHTSEEING]
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Top in town
Ponte dei Sospiri
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4
CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.
PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can
4 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as
MORE AT PAGE 38 MAP PAGES 46-47
Canal Grande
Palazzo Ducale
PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4
PHOTO LUIGI FARDELLA © SHUTTERSTOCK
a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4
Teatro La Fenice
EDITOR'S TIP
11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.
Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.
Doge's Palace
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES AUGUST
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
6 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
AUGUST CINEMA
29 8 AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
STARS IN THE LAGOON Featuring a mix of history, art and worldliness, the Venice Film Festival is the oldest film festival in the world. Since its first edition in 1932, international stars, VIPs, journalists and film buffs have met and mingled at the Lido’s Palazzo del Cinema and on the Marconi promenade. This year, the jury’s president, Guillermo del Toro, the visionary Mexican director and the 2018 Oscar award winner for The Shape of Water, will present the coveted Golden Lion Award (Golden Lion 2017). Biennale Cinema 2018 75th Venice International Film Festival Palazzo del Cinema, Lungomare Marconi Lido di Venezia www.labiennale.org/en/cinema/2018
Franca Sozzani Award - Karolina Kurkova. La Biennale di Venezia foto ASAC
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
AUGUST
PHOTOGRAPHY
16 26
THE VINTAGE LENS OF ROITER
► Casa dei Tre Oci pays homage to the late renowned Venetian photographer Fulvio MARCH AUGUST Roiter, a key figure of 20thcentury photography, with a first-ever major retrospective. His life is told through images of his native Venice and its Lagoon, his landscapes, and architectural and street photography taken during his extensive travels in America, Belgium, Portugal, Spain and Brazil. The black-and-white photographs displayed are enhanced by video screenings and books edited by famous historians and journalists.
Fulvio Roiter - Acqua alta in Piazzetta San Marco, 2002 © Fondazione Fulvio Roiter
CONTEMPORARY ART
ARCHITECTURE
8 16
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WHEN ARTISTS TALK ABOUT THEMSELVES
The collective exhibition ‘Dancing with Myself’ curated by Martin APRIL DECEMBER Bethenod and Florian Ebner, stems from a collaboration between the Pinault Collection and the Folkwang Museum in Essen. The exhibition at Punta della Dogana aims to explore the examination of self in artistic production between the 1970s and the present time. Photographs, videos, paintings, sculptures and installations, from diverse cultures and generations, describe the artists’ melancholia and humour, amidst political identities and existential reflections. Dancing with Myself Punta della Dogana www.palazzograssi.it
SHERMAN. Photo ©De Fina 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
TIME IN A MOSAIC
▼ The T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store celebrates contemporary art with a site-specific installation by Italian artist Elisabetta Di APRIL NOVEMBER Maggio. The project titled ‘Greetings from Venice’ is based on the romantic themes of the passage of time, the bonds that tie people to places and epitomizes several different eras of history: the city’s period of Byzantine splendour, the history of the Fondaco dei Tedeschi and, lastly, the history embodied by each stamp used to create the work. To convey her message, the artist has collected more than a hundred thousand used stamps from all over the world, divided by geographic area.
Greetings from Venice T Fondaco dei Tedeschi – Event Pavilion 4th Floor. Open daily, free entrance. www.tfondaco.com
PHOTO © FRANCESCO ALLEGRETTO
Fulvio Roiter. Photographs 1948-2007 Casa dei tre Oci, Fondamenta Zitelle, 43, Giudecca www.treoci.org
ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE AUGUST/SEPTEMBER
DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (17-18 December) > Organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists. New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (29-30-31 December)
International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (29 August-8 September) > 75th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia. SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (2 September) One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.
> 2019 <
The Venice Glass Week (9-16 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making. OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (28 October) NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice - Concert Season Opening (3 November ) Festa della Salute (21 November) A popular religious feast day. Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (23 November)
JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (1 January) Regata delle Befane (6 January) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.
Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 11 May-24 November (preview 8-9-10 May), Arsenale and Giardini > The 58th International Art Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (11-12 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony
FEBRUARY/MARCH Carnival of Venice (16 February5 March 2019) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.
Vogalonga (19 May) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands.
APRIL Venice Fashion Spring (13-14 April)
JULY
Venice Night Trial (14 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice.
Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (20-21 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks.
www.potpourri.it
San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810-1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332
FASHION · HOME · MAN · LIFESTYLE
Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Panoramic view of the Grand Canal from the terrace of the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi.
Venice’s ‘great heart’ of water
A tour of the Grand Canal, the waterway that winds its way amidst spectacular palaces and under picturesque bridges. An intriguing combination of art, history, water and trade. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Romena Brugnerotto Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia
10 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
V
enice’s major water artery, measuring approximately 4km in length and between 30 and 70 metres in width, follows a natural channel that traces a reverse ‘S’ course that divides the city from the north-west to the south-east, connecting various landmarks of historic, artistic and touristic interest. The Grand Canal is lined with sumptuous villas and palaces that either belong, or belonged in the past, to noble Venetian families, and takes visitors on a trip through five centuries of history, from the 13th to the 18th centuries. It was originally a gateway to the Rialto market, and later became the focal point of the lagoon’s mercantile life. Nowadays, it’s a symbol of the city. LET’S START FROM ST. MARK’S SQUARE Venice’s enduring charm has captured people’s imagination for centuries; it continues to beguile visitors to this day. Olden-day travelers who arrived by ship to trade with the Serenissima were dazzled, as are modern-day visitors who are so overwhelmed when they arrive that they don’t know where to look first. And this feeling is further heightened in St. Mark’s Square, which is one of Venice’s prime attractions. Our tour starts from a place that over the centuries was the centre of the city’s political power. When walking along the Grand Canal towards the Rialto district you can admire palaces whose beauty is awe-inspiring. The Grand Canal is best appreciated by boat, either on a private water taxi or on the line 1 vaporetto, which departs from San Marco Vallaresso. In order to get the best view, we recommend sitting outside at the rear of the boat (the tour lasts for approximately one hour).
DORSODURO, THE ARTISTIC SESTIERE Leaving the marvelous Basilica of the Madonna della Salute – a 17th century masterpiece, located on the left bank, designed by Baldassarre Longhena – we continue our tour through Dorsoduro, one of the city’s six sestieri, also known as the ‘artistic district’ due to its myriad museums and galleries. Here our attention is captured by Ca’ Dario, an unusually small ‘palazzo’, measuring only 10 metres in length. This Renaissancestyle gem of Venetian architecture is entirely decorated with marble and Istrian stone. Other architectural elements of note include its typical Venetian chimneys, among the most original still standing today. Despite its beauty, this small ‘palazzo’ is thought to be ‘cursed’. This began with Marietta, the daughter of its original owner, who committed suicide as a result of her husband’s debts, and since then an unusual number of Ca’ Dario occupants have met untimely deaths. According to a local legend, the palace is associated with at least seven deaths, including that of Christopher “Kit” Lambert (manager of “The Who”) who, after purchasing the palace, turned to drugs and went bankrupt. Just a little further on, we find Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, another iconic, single-storey building that was started in 1748 but never completed. It is currently the headquarters of the Peggy Guggenheim Foundation and houses one of the most important collections of 20th century art in the world. The Dorsoduro district is also home to the squero di San Trovaso (where gondolas are built) and the prestigious Università di Ca’ Foscari, which is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. SAN MARCO, THE HEART OF THE FLOATING CITY The ‘sestiere’ of San Marco is located on the right bank of the Grand Canal and houses the famous Scala Contarini del Bovolo from whose terrace you can admire the city’s rooftops. Another must-see attraction whilst in the area is Palazzo Cavalli Franchetti. Located just steps from the Accademia bridge, the building has a beautiful garden where, over the next few months, visitors will have a chance to admire the ‘Gilded Cage’,
Basilica of the Madonna della Salute
a stunning installation by Chinese artist-activist Ai Weiwei. Although the history of this palazzo dates back to the 16th century, its ‘GothicLagunar-style’ façade, featuring a unique mixture of ideas and materials, was only added during the 19th century. Just steps away, we find Palazzo Grassi, the last Patrician palace built on the Grand Canal before the fall of the Republic. Its size and striking white colour – the palazzo is entirely covered in Istrian stone – make it one of the most noticeable buildings on the Grand Canal, testifying to the Grassi family’s desire to be publicly recognized as powerful, wealthy and influential. It is now owned by French multi-millionaire François Pinault whose contemporary art collection is one of the five largest in the world. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni (Peggy Guggenheim Collection)
SAN POLO, THE MARKET DISTRICT After heading back to the left bank, we find ourselves in the ‘sestiere’ of San Polo which, in addition to hosting the city’s famous Rialto Market – from which restaurants and locals source their daily staples – is also home to a series of stunning ‘palazzi’, where some of the city’s most sumptuous events are held. The first is Palazzo Pisani Moretta, a late 15th-century building and a typical example of Venetian Gothic style embellished with six-light mullioned windows with ogival arches which are reminiscent of the neo-classical style of Palazzo Ducale. This palazzo hosts Il Ballo del Doge®, the city’s most sought-after Carnival ball, organized by designer Antonia Sautter. Featuring a fabulous mixture of food, shows and extravagant costumes, this unmissable event is a jet setter’s dream come true. Just a little further on, the luxury, 5-star Aman Hotel – where George Clooney and Amal Alamuddin were married in 2014 - is located in the regal Palazzo Papadopoli. Built in the 16th century, and home to several important families over the years, its interiors were decorated by Giambattista Tiepolo, Venice’s most famous 18th century artist. Its renovated garden and rooms are absolutely breathtaking! Midway on the Grand Canal, we find the iconic Rialto Bridge, for centuries the only means of crossing the Grand Canal on foot. This space where it stands today was formerly occupied by a number of wooden bridges that either collapsed or were damaged. At the beginning of the 16th century, the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally build a stone bridge. The competition was won by Antonio Da Ponte, 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
Palazzo Ca' Dario (at right)
Palazzo Cavalli Franchetti and its garden with the “Gilded Cage” installation by Ai Weiwei.
Photo © Francesco Allegretto, courtesy Fondazione Berengo.
PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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Fondaco dei Turchi (Museum of Natural History)
Osteria "Al Timon", Fondamenta della Misericordia
Photoalb.campanile@gmail.com
whose masterpiece was constructed with only a single stone arch. To enjoy a bird’s eye view of the bridge, we suggest that you head to the luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi and take an elevator up to its terrace (don’t let the queues discourage you). From here you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the Grand Canal and the roofs of the city. The view at sunset is particularly spectacular and the terrace is open until 7.45pm. CANNAREGIO, THE LARGEST DISTRICT OF VENICE On the right bank, in the ‘sestiere’ of Cannaregio, the famous Ca’ d’Oro captivates passersby with its beauty. Its name originally derives from the fact that several areas of its façade, considered a key example of the Venetian floral Gothic style, were covered with gold. Over the centuries, its owners included a Russian prince who bought
it as a gift for Maria Taglioni, a famous 19th century ballerina. Today it hosts a magnificent art gallery commissioned by Baron Franchetti, its last owner. The right bank is also home to Palazzo Vendramin Calergi, currently the headquarters of Venice’s casino. The Vendramin Calergi palace was built at the end of the 15th century by the Lorendan family and was probably designed by Mauro Codussi, one of Italy’s most influential architects. Its interiors were decorated by renowned Venetian artist Giorgione, who embellished them with a cycle of frescoes, which have now been lost. After various ownerships, the palazzo became the property of the City of Venice in 1946 and was converted into a casino. A plaque on the building’s façade reminds us that the palazzo was once inhabited by Richard Wagner, who rented the mezzanine floor. While touring in the Cannaregio district,
don’t miss a visit to the Jewish Ghetto, the oldest in Europe, renowned for its beautiful synagogues. Your go-to address for a typical Venetian break is Fondamenta della Misericordia. Its numerous ‘bacari’, patronized by both young and old, are the ideal spot to enjoy a glass of wine and typical Venetian ‘nibbles’ known as ‘cicchetti’. Among the many, we warmly recommend ‘Al Timon’. In the last stretch of the Grand Canal, on the opposite bank, before reaching the railway station, you’ll find Ca’ Pesaro, another masterpiece designed by architect Longhena, renowned for its imposing Baroque-style façade, embellished with statues and bas-reliefs. The ground floor is highlighted by an impressive diamond-shaped ashlar decoration. SANTA CROCE, A GATEWAY TO THE CITY The last stretch of the Grand Canal is also lined with several majestic palaces. If you walk down towards San Stae, you can visit Palazzo Mocenigo, home to the Textiles and Costumes Museum with exhibits dedicated to the art of fragrance: an ode to Venice's 16th-century status as Europe's capital of perfume. As you near the station, it is impossible to miss the Fondaco Dei Turchi, now home to the city’s Museum of Natural History. Although this building was restored several times, its Venetian Byzantine style is unmistakable. Signs of history that tell the story of an opulent past and force us to keep looking upwards. A view of the city that will remain etched in your memory when you return home, an almost graphic image of what can be described as the most incredible ‘street’ in the world. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
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DEI GESUITI FO ialto Bridge is one of the ND M AM EN IN TA ZE most famous and widely N CA FO LL E photographed landmarks ofND. S.ANDR FO LA EA ND RG CAL A LE AM DE VOL Venice. Not only the undisputed EN TI I B OT TE CAL ER FO ND . icon of postcards and ‘selfies’, but CAMP O DE L NO CA E V SA RT O I RI E N IE LL VE ED LE ERBE R EL CAMPO also the oldest bridge in the city LA FO DE LA CARITA’ ST ND UA C A (until 1854 it was the only means ofMcrossing AL EN LE CORTE DEL TA San Felice BE REMER PR the Grand Canal on foot). Located in the RL IU CAL R IO LE D LI EN TER EL V DI O Llagoon mint was locatedÀ BatA Rits easternmost end. picturesque Rialto neighbourhood, it is a heady in the are sold, and the Erbaria, TO S whose BA F RUT RAMO A R IO DEL M CORTE DEL O RA In 1250, its wooden piles wereLreplaced by mix of shops, eateries and architecture, where vendorsPOZETO sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit DE ORO CAMPIELLO a mobile structure, a sort of drawbridge that the days are marked by the cries of the vendors and vegetables. FO DE LA MADONNA ro allowed larger craft to sail under it, and its name of its famous, bustling market and by the Although a visit to this market means elbowing ST CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Santa Sofia R azionalecomings and goings VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA was changed to the Rialto bridge, possibly one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, LL C O RT E San Lazzaro E erna Ca’ D’Oro A NofO VVenetians and tourists VA B ATA G I A RI due to its association with the nearby district of SCO the market nevertheless who are either in searchAof a traditional ‘osteria’ boasts two gems of Mendican CORTE dei CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA and artistic interest: a loggia dating Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or historic CORTE NOVA A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, looking to make a purchase from one of the Santi back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime Apostoli CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL the bridge collapsed and was damaged several innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that line its ‘ c alli’ and symbolic decorations, including a number GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE L times. The daring but scenically impact-making and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. of esoteric elements thatI are mixed in with S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giova CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelicanew design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M LE Luterana ID CUO W Ponte consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch capitals ofSits FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND More attentive visitors Lcolonnade. E E LL CA CAMPO span, supported by a broad rectangular deck The history of this iconic bridge dates back to will also notice a marble plaque embedded S.MARIA NOVA CAMPO DELLA CAL Lof Cassiano E L its red brick facades, which shows carrying two arcadesANof and ‘botteghe’ the year 1000 when it was built as a pontoon in one N ARG PESCARIA IAshops Z A G . G SAN C L L IN IZ A D A roadways. A fronting on bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due to regulations setAcenturies ago for minimum S A Lthree Santa Maria RI O DE increased traffic it was replaced with a wooden allowable sizes for lagoon fish. Basilica dei dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA IM IR BECARIE San THE Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CAL FAMOUS MARKET bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO EL F I Grisostomo ORN CESARE BATTISTI O CAL Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it isL E C A S T FOR SHOPPING Moneta’ both due to theGIÀ toll that people had ADDICTS SANTI GIOVANNI ELL DELLA I Teatrowhere Malibran PAOLOshopping. While VIENNA divided into the Pescaria, fish caught to pay when crossing BELLA it and becauseCAMPO the city’s However, Rialto alsoEmeans CA LL E SAN GIACOMETO LE ER BE strollingDE through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streetsChiesa or when dell’Os C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several L NS O BA RB AR ON di Rialto IA DE L I unusual shops that are imbued with the Casa di CAMPO atmosphere of a bygone era. AMPIELLO Marco Polo RIALTO DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO These include antique shops, artisans’ dei Tedeschi O AN workshops, old book binding shops where V CA C. D LLE ’Aponal TA DEL RA EL F DEL C .M ONT E A RT P IO EGO books are still bound according to timeMB GH IN E Ponte U O NG R OD SA CAL . PA N G FO LE G LLE honoured tradition,CORTE and jewelry O di Rialto SALIZZ CORTE stores selling IA Z Z CAMPO IOVNDA O AN ME TREVISAN CAMPO NAL DEL NI NT AD SAN BORTOLOMIO LA A A DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN from Murano glass TE PIO original creations made R CAMPO X SAN LIO Rialto beads. On the other hand, those in search of CAMPIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ A DE FORMOSA an amazing experience, should head to the DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA CA Z ZO old post office which now houses the recently CALLE LARGA SAN LO Fontego LLE LA Santa Maria C. LA RG RGA A CORTE DEL Santa Maria opened T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, high- BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo ZZ Palazzo CORTE SABION CAMPO IN I MONDO della Fava C. DEL CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA end DEL shopping center and a magnificent feat of Grimani Rialto CORTE NUOVO CALIC Rava DE LA PASINA E MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione RIA architecture that has been updated to brilliantly SAN O E CORTE D SAL EZ A BAN VAD CORTE SC EM E LE OR RUBBI TA S.Silvestro LE D ED LICINI O balance the old with Palazzo new. The building CAL LL boasts a CAMPIELLO O A Teatro T C QUERINI SA US STAMPALIA Querini CA M marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree LL E Carlo Goldoni San Salvador ED LL MA EM CA RZ CORTE DEL AR Stampalia EZ CORTEVenice. view over IA O DE TEATRO RO RA
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
► VENINI Whimsical and provocative, ‘Where Are My Glasses’ is the name of the new line of vases designed by Ron Arad for Venini. An explosive combination of glass and metal, colour and transparency. Pictured here: the ‘Double Lens’ Red/Violet model. www.venini.com
GUIDE Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia
◄ SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER
These ‘Night & Day’ earrings by the historic Venetian jeweler can be shortened for daywear, with the blue front part, or embellished in the evening with the back pink part. www.salvadori-venezia.eu
▲ CLARKS With inspiration taken from the brand’s ‘Originals’ range, these contemporary ‘Tri Native’ trainers with a wide-stitch construction and a barefoot moccasin feel are incredibly comfortable. Just try them! www.clarks.eu
◄ ROLEX Boasting a robust, functional design, this ‘Submariner Date’ has a subtly redesigned Oyster case, an elegant blue dial with large luminescent hour markers, a graduated rotatable Cerachrom bezel and a solid link two-tone bracelet. The look is completed by Everose gold, an exclusive pink gold alloy created and patented by Rolex. www.rolex.com
► FURLA Boasting a minimalist, compact design and a signature clasp closure, the ‘Metropolis’ handbag in textured leather is perfect to take your essentials from day to night. Ideal for the office or more casual wear, this iconic tote is a practical, elegant and timeless accessory. www.furla.com
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15
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The luxury heart of Venice
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panning 7,000 square meters, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the very first DFS retail space in Europe, features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1228, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store
is used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium is home to AMO, the exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking!
FONDACO COURTYARD - MATTEO DE FINA @ DFS
Luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof.
Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, this is ‘the’ go-to address for a one-stop shopping experience.
16 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
>> T Fondaco dei Tedeschi Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM
The
Guidelines
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold
at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
»
Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, a group of Muranese glass companies, in collaboration with the Regione Veneto, has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Promovetro Murano Consortium, which boasts a membership of fifty companies. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com www.promovetro.com
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.
ACCESSORIES Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
La Parigina An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, buttersoft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17
[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3
CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4
BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4
ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5
BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5
FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4
BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4
FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5
BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5
MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5 MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4
GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5
HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5
18 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5
FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4
GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5
This lambskin handbag by GIORGIO ARMANI features a glossy Plexiglas closure in the shape of the Armani/Privé fragrance bottle cap.
LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5
SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4
HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4
TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5
JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4
TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5
VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
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CORTE NOVA In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started SantiShopping Apostoli a Personal service and Tax Free T:CAMPIELLO 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). working at his family’s footwear factory, WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun Map F4 OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. LI 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann Based in Venice, he has collaborated with CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica Pot-Pourrì 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto N C SAN CANCIANO D R IO A L L AN E M fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, LE Luterana ID SCU Three exclusive boutiques set against the stop). Map F4 W O L E E LL Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning CA magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Boggi Milano CAMPO DELLA C A L in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries Vittoria LE San Cassiano LAR N PESCARIA GA Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers An easy yet sophisticated A N ZI A for businessmen Gfashion N Clook . GA clothing and accessories for him and DA SA L L IN ZA LI A SA Santa Maria who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style R IO CAMPO her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections anddei a DE Basilica SAN CASSAN Robin Wright, Britney Miracoli CAMPO DE LA I M dei Spears and Sarah Jessica for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano IR selection of international brands, skillfully mixed BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C OL LL E Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps inCAMPO Venetian offers garments aimed at a contemporary, LL CAMPO D E Lfor which ED I with the Aflair the brand is renowned. FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL Alace LE C ’M ED are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. modern and cosmopolitan man who is not SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A U S EL T E LCouture dresses, handcrafted accessories and TI LI DELLA A BO Malibran E PAOLO VIENNA TA www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco,BELLA 1296. T: 041 CAMPO prepared to sacrifice theTeatro classics of the male knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural CA LL E DE LE Chiesa dell’Ospe ER BE 5238038.C Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- SAN GIACOMETOwardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of CORTE SECONDA DE AM P L San Giacomo DEL MILION Vallaresso Map F4 comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. IE CARAMPANE SA stop). LL accessories and homeware inspired by a classicalBA NS O ON RB AR IA di RialtoOther locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa DE DE LE TO I LE contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks CA Casa di RA Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6Fondamenta MP O CAMPO AN and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San dei Tedeschi O boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; N A AV C R ALL C. D L Sant’Aponal Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. ED EL F DE C .M EL ONT TA Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun A RT P IO Al Duca d'Aosta EGO HE M G IN PonteVaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso BO EN RU GO D. P CAL 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San SAN GIOFON LE G ALL Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al di Duca SA CAMPO Rialto CORTE E IA Z Z CAMPO CORTE LIZ ON VA DAM O D stop). Map F4 TREVISAN NN EN ZA CAMPO DEL ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO I LA TA DA Marco, 1810 (RamoPRESTRIN dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the LP DEL VOLTO TE PIO RA DE CAMPO NO X E LL Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) T: 041 A Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, SAN LIO C Rialto Marina Rinaldi CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m SANTA MARIA SAL Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA DA Renowned for Cits tasteful, plus-size apparel FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO LONI . DE L IO (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 LG DEI PRETI Venice location features over 100 top fashion CA ALIA ZZO LL for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Fontego E Santa Maria San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4 L A C. brands for men and women, carefully selected LARG RG A CORTE DEL Santa Maria aA Mwide range of collections, featuring both Dolfin Manin Formosa Palazzo AZ BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO Palazzo ZIN CORTE SABION CAMPO to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These I DEL MONDO della Fava
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Top antiques Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@ antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
20 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www.canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4 Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. it stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
SHOPPING DEPARTMENT STORES
FASHION OUTLETS
Coin Excelsior
Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet
Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for NonEU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco. com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Map E3
Advertorial
Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-
Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Art, luxury and elegance
For more than 30 years, FREYWILLE has been setting new standards in jewellery design, enameling processes and internationalization. The heart of every jewellery piece is the distinctive and artistically designed fire enamel that is applied in many layers and then fired. Up to 100 manual steps are necessary to produce a delicate and colour-intense fire enamel plate, shining with a stunning brilliance. All FREYWILLE Venezia jewellery pieces are hand-made in Vienna by masters of the genre, who guard the secret process: as passionate and experienced artists, they guarantee that the unique jewellery is of the highest quality. FREYWILLE has a long history of paying tribute to Venice’s heritage, incorporating quintessential Italian symbols, colours, and other elements in its products. The opulent and elegant jewellery collection “Hommage à Venice” highlights Venice’s architectural beauty and history. With the winged Lion as the centerpiece of the design, each magical piece of jewellery captures the story behind this special symbol and hallmark of the city as well as that of St Mark, one of Venice’s patron saints.
FREYWILLE Venezia Piazza San Marco, 53 T: 041 5200807 www.freywille.com
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
SHOPPING Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by
Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).
Map E4
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open
daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
An exclusive perfume collection from The Merchant of Venice The Nobil Homo men’s collection by The Merchant of Venice has been enriched by Venetian Blue Intense, a new “concentrée” fragrance, now on sale at all The Merchant of Venice standalone boutiques. In the brand’s latest creation, marine notes and fougère are enhanced in an explosion of long-lasting freshness. Venetian Blue Intense begins with a musky, smoky base on which fresher, more piquant spices collide with the energy of citrus fruits. However, its unexpected olfactory note derives from apple and pineapple, a combination that is both surprising and unique. This olfactory masterpiece pays tribute to the Venetian ‘Nobil Homo’ (an aristocratic gentleman), an intrepid, cosmopolitan traveler whose success is the result of his drive and ambition. The fragrance’s sophisticated packaging embodies all the beauty of handcrafted Venetian fabrics. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.
22 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
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San Giacomo di Rialto
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When visiting Venice for the first or umpteenth time, we hope to find something truly Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto original for an authentic shopping experience. San Francesco An object, created by skilled craftsmen della Vigna S A N P O L O Sant’Aponal that captures the essence of the place or represents a special souvenir, to be kept as a memento or a gift for familySanand friends back home. San Silvestro Lorenzo Ottica Fontego Santa Maria Basilica San Rocco Chiesa Rettoriale Santa Maria the centuries, Dolfin Manin Formosa Palazzo as with all historic cities throughout the world, Venice has cultivated Over Palazzo dei Frari di S. Polo della Fava Grimani Mantovani Rava o della Consolazione ● Palazzo that have given life Teatro San Giovanni artisanal skills to emblematic artifacts, C A Sranging T E Lfrom L Oartistic glass Querini Carlo Goldoni San Salvador di Malta Palazzo Stampalia Querini-Dubois Palazzo La Biennale di Venezia de n a Grimani Educational to paper objects, accessories, fabrics and jewelry. In today’s world, where everything is Arsenale Gr Arsenale di Venezia l a San Giuliano San Tomà Can San Giovanni Novo San Beneto San Luca La Biennale di Venezia an Pantalon manufactured and can be bought – either at shops in the city or online Teatro – those alle Tese items, Palazzo Palazzo Giustinian Nervi San Giorgio Persico Scattolin Palazzo Fortuny dei Greci based on manual work and ancient techniques that have been handed down Arsenale di Venezia Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo from generation to generation, still hold a unique value. San Zaccaria San Martino Basilica di San Marco Santa Maria San Giovanni Battista della Pietà Remember that purchasing a souvenir authentic workshops or -from S A N MSanAFantinR C O in at Bragora La Biennale di Venezia Arsenale artisans Palazzo Palazzo Ducale GrassiNorma's Santo Stefano helps Venice preserve its traditional artisanal skills and hand them down to Museo San Samuele Correr Ca' Rezzonico ● Teatro la Fenice future generations. San Moisè San Barnaba San Maurizio Palazzo Loredan CO
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Santa Maria dei Miracoli
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Alberto Sarrias Masks ●
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O
S.Canciano
CAN ZIAN A SAN
San Giovanni Grisostomo
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CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
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CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
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San Giacomo dall'Orio
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San Stae Ca' Pesaro ST Santa Sofia RA Galleria Internazionale D d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro A N O V A
ON
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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
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Riva de Biaso
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Hundertwasser' Garden
Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. ISOLA LA GRAZIA
S. Servolo
SAN SERVO
www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.
NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality ISOLA MadeSAN in Italy materials. CLEMENTE
ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEG
www. teodamar.com Calle de le Botteghe 2995-2996. T: 345 0133552. More info: venice.whereitalia.com
LIDO DI V w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23
ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
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Palazzo Genovese
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Palazzo Pisani Gritti
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nzera Scome De Canale I
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San Zaccaria
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San Giorgio dei Greci
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San Giovanni Novo
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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
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Basilica di San Marco
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San Maurizio
Canal Grande
CALLE
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
BIAGIO
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
SALIZADA
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
PONTE
SACCA SAN
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
S.Canciano
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CALLE
SPIRITO
RAMO
CALLE
LA
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
ZATTERE ALLO
CALLE
DE
LE
FALIER CALLE
San Vidal
FONDAMENTA
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CALLE
C.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
VENIER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
Rialto
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
FONDAMENT
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
ORESI
nde Canal Gra
CROSERA
S. SAMUELE
SAMUELE
PESTRIN
CARROZZE
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
CALLE
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
CALLE
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
SAN
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
VOLTI
PRIULI
NOVA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
RAVANO
San Silvestro
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
LE
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
FOND.
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
DEI
PISCINA
CROSERA
S. SALIZADA
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
ZEN
S.ANDREA
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
PARANGON
DEL
RUGHETA
S.Silvestro
DEL TEATRO
CATENE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
CALLE
CALLE
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
Cana
LA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
Palazzo Grimani
NOVE
CALLE
CATERINA
FOND.
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
nde
NARISI FOND.
VECCHIA
CORTE LEZZE
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
E
FONDAMENTA
SANTA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE BERNARDO
FONDAMENTA
LONGO
TRAPOLIN
San Beneto San Luca
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
TRAGHETTO
CA’ RAMO
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
DEL
C. DE
DE
PONTE
LA
CARAMPANE
CALLE
DI SAN MARCO
Accademia
FOND.
ZATTERE
LE
Gra
Palazzo Fortuny
SESTIERE
CALLE
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
DE OGNISANTI
AL
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
FODAMENTA
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPO SAN APONAL
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
Abazia della Misericordia D I
R
A
PERDON
DEL
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
DEL
CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
DORSODURO
BESAGIO
O
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE
del
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
CALLE SAN
CANAL RIO TERA’
Rio
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
IC
San Felice
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
MADONA
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
ROSSA
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
DORSODURO
ER
CALLE
DEI
C.
SCALETER
San Tomà
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
IS
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
DE LA
CAZZIOLA
Angelo Raffaele
SALIZADA
CALLE CHIESA
M
FONDAMEN
VENDRAMIN
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CROSERA
FONDAMENT
VENEZIA
TA
TRON
SAN
C.
EN
CA'
FORNO
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
C.
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
DE
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
ZANE
RAMO
Rio Nuovo
BRIATI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
S. Basilio
DELLA
D
TA
TA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
N
FONDAMEN
DEL
TABACCHI
PRETI
L’ASEO
Madonna
MORI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
NA
Santa Fosca
CALLE
NUOVA
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
CA
NA
RUGA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
LE
ALE
FABBRICHE
CALLE DE L’OGIO
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CALLE
NIE
DD
LE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
PAPADOPOLI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
C.
DE
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
CALLE
CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
.DA
MA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
LA
DE
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SALIZADA
CALLE
DEI
FO
À D E
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE
MINOTTO
Magazen
Misericordia
FO de Servi N
TER
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
TINTOR
FON.
CALLE
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
DE
DE LA VIDA
DEL
SCHI
NICOLO’ SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
TA
CANAL CORTE
LUNA
Rio
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
della
Rio
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN
CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMA
SIMEONE
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
CERERI
Rio
La Maddalena
NOVA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
DEI
IA
RIO
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
I CALLE ORSETT
C.
NUOVA
FONDAMENTA
RD
R
STRADA
BIASIO
DI
BARI
LARGA
PONTE RIZZI
PROCURATIE
FONDAMEN
Soranzo Cappello
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta C.
DEI
FONDAMENTA
ICO
VECCHIO
RIVA FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TERÀ
MADONA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
CALLE TRAGHETTO
Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAMENTA
RIO
LA
MIS
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
nde l Gra Cana
RIO
CASE CORTE
CALLE
SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
E DEL PISTO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
NUOVE
CROCE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
LUNGA
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
CALLE
CROCE
CALLE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
CALL
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
DEI
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
AM
I
NA
RDIA
TRONCHET
LER
SE
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
A E M
SPAGNA
LISTA TERÀ
TI
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
LL
MISERICO
DI
CAVALLET
Santa Maria di Nazareth
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Rio
LA
AI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
EN
FO
DE
PRIULI
TO
AM
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
CA
CALLE
TRONCHET
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
SAVORGNAN
San Geremia
CALLE DEI FUSERI
PU
San Girolamo
A
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
SALONI
CA
C.
FO
LE
O
AI
DE
AM
ZATTERE
TA
OL
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT
FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
EN
LLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
AM
N G IR
DEL
ND
SA
CAPITELO
CASE
TA
CALLE
FO EN
TE
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CALLE
TA
QUERIN,
BECCARIE
EN
CALLE
LE
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
SEBASTIANO
FORNER
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
BRAGADIN
DEL
People Mover Venezia
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
GIOBBE
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
della
CARLO
FO
A
San Giobbe
VENIER FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENT
DEL SABION
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
FONDAMENTA
LARGA
FONDAMENT
A
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
DEL
CORTE
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
NOVA
FONTEGO
ER
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
B
ISOLA
LA
Parco
LI
SALITA
LA
NANI
EL
CANOSSIANE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
FOSCARINI
LE
FONDAMENTA
A
TERRÀ
VI
LE
ER
DE
B
TO
COLORATA
Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENT
LI
O
MURANO CALLE
LA
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
EL
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
D
del
LE
CALLE
A
Rio
VI
PORTO MARGHERA
CALLE
The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.
TORCELLO
ISOLA DEI LAGHI
FONDAME
home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
DI
As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp
FONDAMENTA
Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.
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D
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FAUSTA
ADVERTORIAL
VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.
Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com
VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.
Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: venice.whereitalia.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. comâ&#x20AC;&#x2021; 25
SHOPPING VENETIANS
Art galleries Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto
Galleria Contini
Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com). The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop,
the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting
D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670
26 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).
SHOPPING PASSION SHOPPING
Tax Free Refund Guide
La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer. com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4
Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www. otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4
Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real
A day frame handbag in multi-coloured velvet by TESSITURA BEVILACQUA, ideal for women who need to carry and store all their essentials. statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4
Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27
LIDO DI VENEZIA Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. BY ELENA BINDA
TORCELLO
Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca
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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
CALLE
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
VIDA
CROSERA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
LA
CALLE
'EU
FONDAMENTA
ROTONDA
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CASTELLO
NT
COSMO
ACCADEMIA
CALLE
DEI FORNI
ROSA
DI
FORNACE
SALONI
SA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DEI
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
LARGA
PIETRO
TERRÀ
TA
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
Giudecca Palanca EN
CONVERTITE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
Arsenale
100 m
SALUTE
Punta della Dogana
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
SAN
ONI
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
RUGA VECCHIA
S C H I AV
de le
C. VOLTO
CALLE
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI
FON
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
CATECUMENI
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
DEGLI
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
Salute
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
ASCENSIONE
RIO TERRÀ
RIO
VAPORETTO
DE CALLE
CROSERA
RI
Palazzo Genovese
FONDAMENTA
DEL
PISCINA
PIGNATER
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
CALLE
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
DEL PIOVAN
MUNEGHE
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
DE CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
PESARO
LUCIA
LARGA CALLE
SANTA NTA
PICCOLO
FONDAME
SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE
F. CONDULMER
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CERERIA LA
ROCCO
DE C.
SAN
ALBANESI
LIPOLI
DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI LARGA CALLE
SESTIERE
nzera Scome De Canale I
DORSODURO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO PORTO
ima
DIREZIONE
Maritt ne
MAGAZZIN
a
AI
o Stazio
DE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
DIETRO
CALLE
DE
VONI
BASTION
SCUDI
SCHIA
DEL
CALLE
L’ANZOLO
DEGLI
DEGLI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
NUOVE
CASTELLO
DE
CALLE
Bacin
CELESTIA
DONA
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI CALLE
R I VA
O
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
GATE
LARGA
RC
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SAN ANTONIN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
SCHIAVONI RIVA
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
SAN
Santa Maria della Pietà
VIN CALLE DEL
CAVALLETTO
Palazzo
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
AM
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
DRASI
FABBRI
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
DEI PUTI
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
ND
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE DELA CREA
FO
FO
SAN
SALIZADA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Spirito Santo
BIAGIO
Sant'Eufemia
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Zaccaria
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SESTIERE
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
DE LE
DEI
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
C. DEL
A N M
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
CALLE
CALLE
SA
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
CALLE BOSELLO
DELL’OROLOGIO
VERONA
LO
DEI PRETI
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
DEI
LA
MINELLI
Palazzo Ducale
MO
CALLE
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
C. PIANTON
O
Museo Correr
ZORZI SALIZADA
SALIZADA
CALLE
DE
RC
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
C.
CALLE
ORSEOLO
Scom enzer
Santa Maria del Pianto
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SEVERO
DEL
le
NOVE
LATERANO
CORTE NOVA
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
ZATTERE
SAN
LAVRANERI
CALLE
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
FONDAMEN TA
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
ENTA
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
MEZO
RUGA
C.
VERONA
MA
SAN
ZZA
DE CALLE
SAN
LA
PIA
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
CORTE NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
CALLE ERIZZO
LIO
DE
FONDAMENTA
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
CALLE
Bacino Orseolo
CARRO
CALLE
BARBARIA
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
FONDAMENTA
RIO
CALLE
SAN
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAM
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
DEL
SAN
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
Rio San Lorenzo
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
DEL
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
CALLE
CAPPELLO BIANCA
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
SAN
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
FRUTARIOL
DEL
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CORTE BAROZZI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CORTE TORRETTA
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
VENEZIA
NOVE
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
FORNO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
DEL
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
SALIZADA
FABBRI
DE PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
ZULIAN
ORBI
DEI
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
Salvador
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
CORNER
San
CALLE
CALLE
Rio
TODESCHI
CALLE
G. GALLINA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
DEI
BEMBO
C. DEI
CALLE
CORTE MICHIEL
LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
San Fantin
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
LICINI
MEZO
C.
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
LARGA
CALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
E
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
GALLO
BERLENDIS
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
BOTERI
VARISCO
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
SAN GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
REMER
DOLERA
CAFETIER
Santa Maria del Giglio
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
DEL FORNO
SAN
DELLE
SAN
Teatro la Fenice
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
SABION
C.
C.
O DEL
CALLE DEL
CAOTORTA
Santa Maria del Giglio
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DELLA
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LIO
C. DEL
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
COCCO
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
DEL
CINQUE
C.
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
TOSCANA
MAZZINI CORTE
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
MORETTI
DE
DONZELA
LUCA SAN CALLE
MARCO
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San Maurizio
Canal Grande
CALLE
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
BIAGIO
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
SALIZADA
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
PONTE
SACCA SAN
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
S.Canciano
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CALLE
SPIRITO
RAMO
CALLE
LA
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
ZATTERE ALLO
CALLE
DE
LE
FALIER CALLE
San Vidal
FONDAMENTA
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CALLE
C.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
VENIER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
Rialto
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
FONDAMENT
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
ORESI
nde Canal Gra
CROSERA
S. SAMUELE
SAMUELE
PESTRIN
CARROZZE
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
CALLE
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
CALLE
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
SAN
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
VOLTI
PRIULI
NOVA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
RAVANO
San Silvestro
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
LE
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
FOND.
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
DEI
PISCINA
CROSERA
S. SALIZADA
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
ZEN
S.ANDREA
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
PARANGON
DEL
RUGHETA
S.Silvestro
DEL TEATRO
CATENE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
CALLE
CALLE
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
Cana
LA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
Palazzo Grimani
NOVE
CALLE
CATERINA
FOND.
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
nde
NARISI FOND.
VECCHIA
CORTE LEZZE
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
E
FONDAMENTA
SANTA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE BERNARDO
FONDAMENTA
LONGO
TRAPOLIN
San Beneto San Luca
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
TRAGHETTO
CA’ RAMO
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
DEL
C. DE
DE
PONTE
LA
CARAMPANE
CALLE
DI SAN MARCO
Accademia
FOND.
ZATTERE
LE
Gra
Palazzo Fortuny
SESTIERE
CALLE
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
DE OGNISANTI
AL
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
FODAMENTA
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPO SAN APONAL
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
Abazia della Misericordia D I
R
A
PERDON
DEL
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
DEL
CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
DORSODURO
BESAGIO
O
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE
del
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
CALLE SAN
CANAL RIO TERA’
Rio
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
IC
San Felice
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
MADONA
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
ROSSA
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
DORSODURO
ER
CALLE
DEI
C.
SCALETER
San Tomà
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
IS
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
DE LA
CAZZIOLA
Angelo Raffaele
SALIZADA
CALLE CHIESA
M
FONDAMEN
VENDRAMIN
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CROSERA
FONDAMENT
VENEZIA
TA
TRON
SAN
C.
EN
CA'
FORNO
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
C.
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
DE
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
ZANE
RAMO
Rio Nuovo
BRIATI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
S. Basilio
DELLA
D
TA
TA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
N
FONDAMEN
DEL
TABACCHI
PRETI
L’ASEO
Madonna
MORI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
NA
Santa Fosca
CALLE
NUOVA
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
CA
NA
RUGA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
LE
ALE
FABBRICHE
CALLE DE L’OGIO
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CALLE
NIE
DD
LE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
PAPADOPOLI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
C.
DE
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
CALLE
CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
.DA
MA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
LA
DE
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SALIZADA
CALLE
DEI
FO
À D E
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE
MINOTTO
Magazen
Misericordia
FO de Servi N
TER
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
TINTOR
FON.
CALLE
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
DE
DE LA VIDA
DEL
SCHI
NICOLO’ SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
TA
CANAL CORTE
LUNA
Rio
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
della
Rio
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN
CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMA
SIMEONE
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
CERERI
Rio
La Maddalena
NOVA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
DEI
IA
RIO
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
I CALLE ORSETT
C.
NUOVA
FONDAMENTA
RD
R
STRADA
BIASIO
DI
BARI
LARGA
PONTE RIZZI
PROCURATIE
FONDAMEN
Soranzo Cappello
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta C.
DEI
FONDAMENTA
ICO
VECCHIO
RIVA FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TERÀ
MADONA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
CALLE TRAGHETTO
TO
NA
Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAMENTA
RIO
LA
MIS
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
nde l Gra Cana
RIO
CASE CORTE
CALLE
SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
E DEL PISTO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
NUOVE
CROCE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
LUNGA
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
CALLE
CROCE
CALLE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
CALL
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
DEI
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
AM
I
SE
TRONCHET
LER
A E M
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
LL
SPAGNA
LISTA TERÀ
TI
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
CA
CAVALLET
Santa Maria di Nazareth
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Rio
DI RDIA
AI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
EN
FO
MISERICO
PRIULI
TO
AM
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
LA
TRONCHET
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
SAVORGNAN
San Geremia
CALLE DEI FUSERI
PU
San Girolamo
A
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
SALONI
CA
C.
FO
LE
O
AI
DE
AM
ZATTERE
TA
OL
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT
FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
EN
LLO
DA PONTE
FONDAMENTA
AM
N G IR
DEL
ND
SA
CAPITELO
CASE
TA
CALLE
FO EN
TE
DOGE
AM
B AT
CALLE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
SEBASTIANO
TA
QUERIN,
BECCARIE
EN
CALLE
LE
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
CALLE
BRAGADIN
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
DE
People Mover Venezia
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
GIOBBE
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
della
CARLO
FO
A
San Giobbe
VENIER FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENT
DEL SABION
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
FONDAMENTA
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SPECIAL EVENTS - For many years the Lido has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all begans in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long sandy beaches. It is therefore not surprising that in August 1932 the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival. Then, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was assigned to the most glamorous event of the year. At the end of summer, the festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers.
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WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence.
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WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club (18 holes) set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered that there was nowhere else where he could play golf.
You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.
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The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200m in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.
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TRATTORIA FAVORITA Located in the heart of the Lido of Venice, since 1950, this historic family-run trattoria has paid tribute to Venetian cuisine. Its menu, comprised mainly of fish dishes, is inspired by locally-sourced ingredients with a focus on distinct, easily recognizable flavours. Standouts include fish tartare or bigoli with shrimp and artichokes which, during warmer months can be savoured in the garden accompanied by a rich selection of wines and great live music. Via Francesco Duodo, 33 – Lido. T: 041 5261626.
Situated in an early 20th-century villa and only a few metres from the vaporetto stop and the docking stations of private boats, the Essentiale Restaurant Lounge has a magnificent veranda featuring typical Venetian-style furnishings and a garden terrace where you can linger until late in the evening and admire St. Marks under the moonlight. Loved by guests on account of its convenient position and designed to accommodate up to 60 diners, it offers traditional Venetian cuisine as well as international dishes, and an excellent selection of wines to toast the beauty spread out in front of you.
c/o Hotel Villa Laguna Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – Lido. T: 041 5261316.
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PHOTO © MORENO GALLO
ESSENTIALE
LIDO DI VENEZIA | Meet your friends
ROXYBAR RESTAURANT
BUDDHA SOUL & RESTÒ
Run by Cinò family since the '50s. Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, 49/G. T: 041 5261250. www.ristoranteroxybar.it
BLUE MOON
Indian and Mediterranean food. Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta 28/B. T: 041 770618. Mob: 366 7554455. buddhasoulresto.net
BAR, LOUNGE & RESTAURANT Pizza, snacks and music on the beach. Piazzale Bucintoro, 1 (at the end of the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta).
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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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BEAUTY CENTER Via Lepanto, 25/A. Mob: 328 9233617 giadachiocchetti1990@hotmail.com
PACHUKA BEACH
RESTAURANT, PIZZERIA & MUSIC Dog-friendly Beach at the Lido. Via Klinger (San Nicolò). T: 041 770147. www.pachuka.com
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LIDO DI VENEZIA
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BAR & LOUNGE ON THE BEACH Pizza and Venetian cuisine. Lungomare Marconi, 61. T: 041 5260709. www.pizzeriamiramare.it
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SEAFRONT KIOSK Premium quality food and drink. Lungomare Marconi, 29 (front “4 Fountaine Beach”)
ADVERTORIAL
TERRAZZA DE BORTOLI
O DEGLI ARMENI
TRATTORIA FAVORITA
UNIQUE SEAFRONT TERRACE Restaurant, pizza, drink and relax. Lungomare Marconi, 22 (near Consorzio Beach). T: 041 5201209
RISTORANTE DEL BUON RICORDO A temple of authentic Venetian cuisine. Via F. Duodo, 33. T: 041 5261626. trattoriafavorita@libero.it
Essentiale
Vaporetto lines: 1, 2, 14, 51, 52 Ticket: € 7,50 20 minutes from Piazza S. Marco 35 minutes from Piazzale Roma
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STARRED & GOURMET RESTAURANT Magnificent view over St. Mark’s Basin. Riviera S. Nicolò, 16. T: 041 5260590. www.villamabapa.com
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido VIA DELL'O SPIZ
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Paradise Beach
BARMALETI
BAR, LOUNGE & RESTAURANT All you want, all day long. Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, 43/47. T: 041 2428133
CHIOSCO BAHIANO
SEAFRONT KIOSK Aperitivi, spritz and snacks. Piazza Pola (Lungomare D’Annunzio). Mob: 349 0557406.
Pachuka Beach
PARADISE BEACH
RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA Salsa & Merengue and Italian dancing. Via Klinger (San Nicolò). T: 041 5261560
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DINING
Elimar, the new place-to-be at the Lido On the island of the Venetian archipelago, renowned throughout the world for its film festival, there’s a new location offering day-long dining, from breakfast to aperitivo time. By Elena Binda
32 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
breakfast to aperitivo time. Boasting a relaxed yet elegant ambience, characterized by trendy décor accented with a touch of the exotic, Elimar is the ideal spot to enjoy a delicious breakfast, a Mediterranean buffet or à la carte lunch, or a cool sundowner with a seafront view. As evening falls, guests can enjoy the sunset with Australian DJ Vicky Vanna, one of the guest stars featured on the locale’s actionpacked program. The Beach Bar is open from 9am to 8pm, and the restaurant from 12-noon to 6pm. Embodying all the bygone charm and glamour of the Lido, the Excelsior also caters to the whims of those looking for a more formal dining option. In this case, the hotel’s Tropicana Terrace is one of Venice’s most iconic ‘al fresco’ dining spots.
>> Elimar Beach Bar and Restaurant www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com Lungomare Marconi 41 Lido di Venezia T: 041 5260201
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ollowing its opening on 20 July, it has become one of the most sought-after addresses for those spending a day on the Lido, a great place for beaching or VIP watching. Elimar is the new restaurant and Beach Bar at the Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido Resort. Its ambience is simply legendary. The Excelsior is a masterpiece of early 20thcentury architecture that, during its hundredyear existence, has been patronized by an incalculable number of celebrities from the worlds of politics, culture and showbiz – due also to its proximity to the Film Festival. Its offerings have now been further enhanced by Elimar, whose versatile Beach Bar and Restaurant combo offers a unique experience and fabulous food throughout the day, from
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE
‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto. it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Al Mercà
Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and seafood, with a menu that changes frequently and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www. osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Borsa Located just a stone’s throw from the La Fenice Opera House and St. Mark’s square, you can enjoy tantalizing, beautifully prepared Mediterranean cuisine at this elegant eatery. The kitchen is open from 12pm to midnight. €€€. www. ristoranteallaborsa.com. San Marco, 2018 (Calle de le Veste). T: 041 5235434. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E5
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient
Alle Testiere
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
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Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style liver,
Your privileged point of view The most sought-after Sunday brunch in the city is served at the Ristorante Terrazza Danieli, the restaurant of the Hotel Danieli, situated on the Riva degli Schiavoni, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. This is the most captivating terrace in the city and has been frequented by everyone who’s anyone, including Peggy Guggenheim, Eugenio Montale, Steven Spielberg and Harrison Ford. On Sundays in summer (until 28 October), from 12.30pm to 3pm, the restaurant’s ‘Venice by Brunch’ offers a fabulous selection of international breakfast classics, platters of Italian cold charcuterie and cheeses, typical Venetian hors d’œuvres, fresh vegetables from the nearby Rialto Market and a kaleidoscope of desserts from every corner of the Bel Paese. In addition to the above, this one-of-a-kind brunch comes with live cooking demonstrations from a legendary chef who prepares a selection of tantalizing traditional hot dishes, including tagliatelle, grilled seabass and pork shank. www.terrazzadanieli.com
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3
Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
34 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
DINING a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
Antico Martini
La Calcina
Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).
Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
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Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www. anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A
Enjoy a ‘bacaro’ tour! Soak up the authentic Venetian atmosphere and dedicate a few hours to the most typical of Italian rituals: the aperitivo! The classic ‘bacaro’ tour is a not-to-be-missed tasting experience. By Stefania Vida
La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www.
The ‘bacaro’, or ‘bacaréto’, is a particular type of Venetian ‘osteria’ (usually a small bar area), where a wide selection of wines or a classical 'Spritz' with small snacks (called 'cicchetti') are served. A good place to begin is AL MERCÀ (San Polo, 213-Campo Bella Vienna-Erberia), in the very central Rialto Bridge area, a 10 squaremeter tavern where you can enjoy Venice’s classic tuna ’polpettine’ (little meatballs), the ‘sarde in saor’ or tiny white-bread sandwiches, accompanied by excellent wine and beer. The beautifully presented display of ‘cicchetti’ at OSTERIA DAI ZEMEI (San Polo, 1045/B) will confirm you’re in the right place: more than twenty different varieties of sliced homemade bread, distinguished by their freshness, creativity, inventiveness and culinary research. Not so far there is the tiny ALL'ARCO (San Polo, 436): their delicious ‘chicchetti’, based on traditional recipes and made only from the freshest ingredients, are a delightful treat to sample while sipping a glass of wine. Around the corner is CANTINA DO MORI (San Polo, 429). Similar in style to All’Arco, it boasts a warm, welcoming atmosphere that is a must-try if you want to experience a typical Venetian adventure. And finally, AI NOMBOLI (San Polo, 222717/B) is worth a mention. Don’t be misled by the simplicity of the furniture; managed by the same family for years, everything here tastes special, whether it’s a ‘tramezzino’, a sandwich or a quick meal. Their barley soup and risotti 'al volo' (literally, 'on the fly') are a must.
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DINING
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map
cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3
Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Trattoria Do Forni
Harry’s Bar
The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Wildner
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
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Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
COFFEE & PASTRY SHOPS Caffè Florian One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).Map F5
Caffè Lavena Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele. www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Dal Mas Cioccolateria Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.
Gran Caffè Quadri
Harry’s Dolci Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Map D6
Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Pasticceria Rizzardini Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’, small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop). Map E4
Rosa Salva Pasticceria This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San MarcoMercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a roundup of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida
Oro
Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny,
gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from
the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo). T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
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EXHIBITION VIEW OF “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
“Asplund Pavilion” by Francesco Magnani and Traudy Pelzel. Photo by Alessandra Chemollo.
The Holy See debuts at the Biennale The Island of San Giorgio Maggiore opens to the public at the 16th Venice Architecture Biennale with a must-visit pavilion. By Romena Brugnerotto
O
ne of this year’s most surprising new entries at the Biennale is the Vatican, whose debut at the global architecture exhibition is marked by the Holy See’s pavilion, a collective experience of urban design curated by architect Francesco Dal Co. An installation of 11 chapels designed by an international roster of eminent architects from Europe, Australia, Japan, the United States and South America. The chapels feature a combination of the human and the divine, defining a place that competes with nature, suspended over the lagoon, amidst water, sky and sea. An ideal place to host a pavilion dedicated to reflection, and a spiritual experience based on a project in keeping with the principles of 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
the Foundation: to encourage reflection and a comparative dialogue with different religions and spiritual traditions. As a model of inspiration for the entire project, the ‘Woodland Chapel’ by Swedish architect Gunnar Asplund, is honoured by Francesco Magnani and Traudy Pelzel at the start of the exhibition’s path, where photographs and drawings of the original project are displayed. A pilgrimage through this ‘architectural wood’ is a truly contemplative experience. >> Vatican Chapels Pavilion of the Holy See 16th International Architecture Exhibition www.labiennale.org Island of San Giorgio Maggiore 26 May – 25 November 2018
“The Morning Chapel” by Ricardo Flores-Eva Prats.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to
PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando (also responsible also for the restoration of Punta della Dogana), it showcases the extraordinary Pinault Collection and features personal and collective exhibitions. www.palazzograssi.it
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www. basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a halfday cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto. visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Originally intended to adorn a garden, Orpheus (1776) by Antonio Canova is now housed at the MUSEO CORRER.
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
| SIGHTSEEING
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini. it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949)
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and welltended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of
transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces,
contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions.
offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
ENTERTAINMENT
In praise of slowness Marvellous villas reflected in the water can be admired while leisurely cruising on a river boat. A tour on the Brenta Riviera, stretching from Padua to Venice, is a poetic experience. By Elena Binda
I
n bygone days, travelling by boat was a necessity. It was the easiest way to cover the 30 kilometres separating Venice from Padua, one of Italy’s oldest and most renowned university cities. Later, when locks – one of which was based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci - changed the course of the river, a tranquil canal, surrounded by lush vegetation, was created along the secondary branch of the Brenta River. This area was ideal to indulge the new fashion of ‘Villeggiatura’ (literally holidaying in a villa). Aristocratic families built country estates where they could spend the summer amidst lush green surroundings and spaces designed for partying, to enjoy
rural recreation. This resulted in the Venetian aristocracy competing with each other by building increasingly spectacular, grandiose villas, designed and decorated by several of the country’s most prominent architects and artists. Nowadays, a leisurely boat tour of the Brenta Riviera is a delightful experience that allows participants to admire these masterpieces of architecture that were designed centuries ago, and which continue to astonish those visiting the area. Unmissable stopovers include Villa Foscari, also known as ‘la Malcontenta’, a stunning mansion built by Andrea Palladio in 1559 and now a UNESCO world heritage site; the magnificent 18th century
Cruising the Brenta Canal is a nice way to discover the Italian Villas
42 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
Villa Pisani which, in addition to housing a magnificent fresco by Giovan Battista Tiepolo, was so large that it was used as meeting place for numerous heads of state until the Pisani family sold it to Napoleon in 1807 and, finally, Villa Widmann which combines the tradition of Veneto villas with French Rococò architecture and is now the headquarters of the Venetian tourist board. Day cruises are available from both Venice and Padua. Several tour companies also offer romantic evening cruises. Ask your concierge to arrange the itinerary that suits you best and get ready for an enchanting experience! >> www.veneziaunica.it www.welcomepadova.it
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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss the “Arlecchino Furioso” perfomance, an original comedy written in the classical canon of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte” - an art form whose colours and masks have conveyed the vitality of popular tradition for more than four centuries. Supertitles in French and English. Until 21 October. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www. teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5
air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
WELLNESS Grand Hotel dei Dogi Spa Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2
The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa Suite. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it ■ OPERA 3, 4, 5 August DORIAN GRAY. The Beauty Has no Mercy by Daniele Martini The Opera is just loosely based on the Oscar Wilde’s book Pierre Cardin, production and costumes Rodrigo Basilicati, artistic director and sets Wayne Fowkes/Emanuele Gamba, directors 19, 24, 26, 29 August IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA by Gioachino Rossini Gregory Kunde, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Lauro Crisman, sets and costumes 25, 28 August LA TRAVITA by Giuseppe Verdi Sesto Quatrini, conductor Robert Carsen director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes Philippe Girardeau, choreography
GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-
A blend of jazz and solidarity What’s on in Venice at night? On Wednesdays and Fridays at 9pm from 15 June to 14 September on the panoramic terrace of the Carlton on the Grand Canal, located opposite the railway station, you can listen to a line-up of starred jazz vocalists while sipping a deliciously cool cocktail and enjoying a spectacular view over the rooftops of the city. These concerts are also an opportunity to participate in a charitable event. Part of the proceeds from tickets will be used to finance the humanitarian organization ‘Women for Freedom’, a project designed to raise awareness and funds to free women and children in Nepal, India, Romania and Cameroon from all forms of slavery, with the implementation of educational programs. Based on the success of last year’s event, for the second edition of the initiative, numerous artists have organized a series of special, must-attend events. Booking is advisable. Women for freedom in Jazz – www.carltongrandcanal.com
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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
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talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
disposable ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre. Venice also has its own network of
public...and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These engine-powered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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Chiesa di San Martino
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Chiesa di Santa Caterina
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11 VIA
CIMITERO DEL STRADA
RI
H
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G
F
100 m
MESTRE
TORCELLO
BURANO
ISOLA CARBONERA
SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
Parco San Giuliano
ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
MURANO 10
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
TREPORTI
1
ISOLA CAMPALTO
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Faro di Murano
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CALLE
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CALLE
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
CA
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RE
Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
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SA
US
GN
LP
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MA
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CAL
LE
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Santa Maria degli Angeli
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EL
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LE
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Cimitero Nuovo
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TO
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DE
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a
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Apostoli Santi
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DEL CALLE
TESTA DE
LA
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FONDAMENTAMendicanti
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CALLE
CASTELLO
GIUSTINA
CAPPUCCINE CALLE
SANTA
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CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE
CALLE CAVALLI
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CALLE
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CALLE
CALLE
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CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI
FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO
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Nuove Fondamenta delle
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Canale
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Rio de San Gerolamo
CALLE DEL DOSE
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CALLE
CALLE
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DE
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CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
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CALLE
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LE
CAR
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SS
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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RN
AR
SANT'ELENA
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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
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CA
LL
SA
CA
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Teatro Verde
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F.
GN
LÒ
Japan Pavilion
CO
MAGGIORE
NI
EMB
RE
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
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United States Pavilion
VIAL
PALUDO CALLE
Rio d el Giardini
CALLE
SAN GIORGIO
I
N
A
N
LA
VA
EL
IO
AR
G
Le Zitelle
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VI
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Lido S. Nicolo' M
BR
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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
TO
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LL
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FO
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PARADISO
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CALLE
DEL
CALLE
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CALLE
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DEL
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CALLE
SANT’ANTONIO
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CALLE
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LEONARDO
LA SACRESTIA
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ALBANESI CALLE DEL
CALLE DE LE RASSE
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CATERINA
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CAMPO
SANTA
della
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LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
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RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
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GA
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LE
CALLE
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CALLE
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VERDI
CALLE
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RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
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SANTA
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CALLE
MERCERIA
STAGNERI
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
SALIZADA
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
NUOVE
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CALLE DEI FUSERI
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E
LL
RIO CROCE
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SAN
AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA
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I CASE
CASE
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TI, RÀ
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CALLE
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CALLE
CALLE
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CALLE
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RIO TERÀ CAZZA
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SALITA
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STAE
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CALLE
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LE DE
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REGINA
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DE
CALLE
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DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA
DE
DE
CALLE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DRIO
DORSODURO SESTIERE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CALLE
ROCCO SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI
CALLE
LE DE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE
DEL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
SANGIANTOFFETTI
EREMITE
FONDAMENTA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
FONDAMENTA NANI
FOSCARINI
FONDAMENTA
TERRÀ
VENIER
CALLE
CALLE
LL
CA
FONDAMENTA
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MP
CA
O
CA
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GE
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NO
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I
IE
SANT'ELENA
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TI
EN
C
AM
BO
D
LI
N
SA
LL
BB
TE
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ZI
TA
NT
EN
Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
Santa Croce
FONDAMENTA
AM
CA
O
E
U I P
LL
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DEI
US
TERÀ
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E
CA
IN
OC
C.
CR
CROCE
VIALE PIAVE
TA
RD
GRANDE
GI
N
RIO
IA
CALLE
SA
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
G
PONTE
EN
E
CALLE
AM
ND
Giardini
S. Giorgio
AL
CORTE
FO
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
VI
FIANCO
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
CALLE
ALDI
EP
O
SAN GIACOMO
A
IST
LL
ACCADEMIA
CE
R L C
IB PE GAR
NA
RI
DE
MA
ION
Lungo
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
C.
EN
ROSA
SALAMON
CALLE
BB
IAN
RE
RI
CO
SA
SE
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
O E ANC
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
CALLE
COPPO
SCHIAVONA
AR
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
SANT'ANNA
CALLE CORERA
CALLE
M
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CALLE TERCO
F O N D A M E N TA
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CALLE
TE
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
FONDAMENTA
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
I
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
CALLE
de le
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
OSPIZIO
CALLE
LE
San Francesco di Paola BALD
AN
CALLE
ENA
COLTRERA
CALLE
CALLE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE FRIZIER
I S ET
C. LOREDANA
DE
EL
FONDAMENTA
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
VA
CH
Ponte
E N TA
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
AM
DELLA
MI
ERBE
RAMO DE
CROSERA
ND
CALLE
E
LE
AMEN
TANA
CALLE
FO
CALLE ALBERO
LL
JUNGHANS
DE
FOND
DE LA
Punta della Dogana
FO
Redentore O
Santissimo Redentore
CALLE MORE
del
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
CALLE
SAN GI ACOM
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
VIDA
CASTELLO
M E N TA
LA
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
DI
PICCOLO
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
PIETRO
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
CALLE DELA CREA
Zitelle
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo
IA
CALLE
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
SAN
FEM
DE CALLE
CROSERA
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
RUGA VECCHIA
FORNACE
SALONI
'EU
PISCINA
DE
C. VOLTO
TERRÀ
NT
SCUOLA
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
CATECUMENI
RIO
SA
CALLE
DE
SALIZADA
DEL PIOVAN
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
TA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
Giudecca Palanca EN
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
BASTION
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
AM
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
SCUDI
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
ND
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
DEL
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
FO
COSMO
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SAN ANTONIN
S C H I AV
DEI FORNI
FO
Sant'Eufemia
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
VONI
100 m
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
DEGLI
VERONA
RIO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
DEGLI
O
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
DE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
FONDAMENTA
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
DEI
DEL
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
DE
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
CALLE
DEI PRETI
GATE
CALLE
DRASI
C.
DEL CAFETIER
CORTE NOVA
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DE LE
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
PISCINA
VERONA
RC
CALLE
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
LA
CALLE
DE
A N M
SALIZADA
a
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SEVERO
DIREZIONE
LATERANO
SAN
FABBRI
Marittim
P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
SA
MEZO
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
DEL
LARGA
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SAN
CALLE
RC
SCHIAVONI RIVA
LE VIGNOLE
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO DEL CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San
RIO
CALLE
CALLE
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
DE LE
ORBI
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
Rio
C.
MAGAZZINI
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
CALLE
BEMBO
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
Museo Correr
Salute
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
LARGA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
REMER
CALLE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
PIA
O DEL
CINQUE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
AI
DEI
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
Ca' Giustinian
RI
Palazzo Genovese
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
NOVE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO SAN
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
BOTERI
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
COCCO
TOSCANA
CALLE
Stazione
DEI
CALLE
DE
SAN
DELLE
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
CALLE
SALIZADA
SABION
C.
C.
DEL CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO
C. DEL
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
FRUTARIOL
DEL
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CASTELLO
CALLE
MADONA
zera
ORESI
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
CALLE
DOLERA
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL RAMO
S.Canciano CALLE
CALLE
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
SAN LIO
MAZZINI CORTE
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
DE PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
FONTEGO
PIO
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
CALLE
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI
San Fantin
Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
RUGA
CALLE
DIETRO
VOLTI
GALIZZI
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
VAPORETTO
CALLE
STURION
DEL
ALLO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
TEATRO
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
SANTO
DEL
CATERINA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
MARCO
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
SANTA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
TRAGHETTO
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
DEL
DEL
CALLE
ZATTERE
CALLE
LA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
FABBRICHE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
LE
LA
CARAMPANE
de r an
NARISI FOND.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO
DEL
San Felice
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
FALIER
BONLINI
TRAPOLIN
VENDRAMIN
CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
CA'
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
PERDON
CARROZZE
al G
SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Can Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE
FONDAMENTA
O
DE
Santa Fosca
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
CALLE
OGNISANTI
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DE
ER
C.
Rio Nuovo
FOND.
IS
NA
DEI
C.
SCALETER
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
M
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
TA
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
C.
EN
TRON
SAN
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
Accademia
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
MORETTI
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
D
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
CROSERA
Ca' Rezzonico
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
N
CALLE
TABACCHI
CALLE
C.
DE
SAN BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
San Barnaba
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
NUOVA
PRETI
L’ASEO
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
NA
DONZELA
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
CA
LA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
DE OGNISANTI
LE
ALE
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
NIE
DD
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
.DA
MA
La Maddalena
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
LA
DE
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
À D E
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
FO de Servi N
TER
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
Bacino
DE
DE LA VIDA
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
Canale
TERA’
RAMO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
TINTOR
BESAGIO
Misericordia
FO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
DEL
SALIZADA
della
Rio
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE LUNA
MINOTTO
Magazen
CALLE
Rio
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano SAN
CALLE CAZZA
FONDAMENTA
CANAL
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RUGA BELA
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO
DEI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
Rio
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
LARGA
PONTE PROCURATIE
DEI
CALLE
IA
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
BIASIO
DI
BARI
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
Scomen
CALLE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
DE L’OGIO
RD
R
VECCHIO
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
Rio
PENSIERI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ICO
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
MIS
RIO
NUOVE
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
E DEL PISTO
MUNEGHE
LA
CROCE
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
EN
STRADA
DE
SPAGNA
FONDAMENTA
Ferrovia
CORTE
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’ SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
AM
CALL
San Leonardo
San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
SCALZI
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
ND
I
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
CAVALLETTI
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
Rio
LER
NA
AI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
NS
DELL'ORTO
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
SE
FO
ER LE P
SE
TRONCHETTO
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Museo Ebraico CAL
A E M
CALLE
DEL
EN
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
LL
NOVA
AM
San Girolamo
CA
ISOLA
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
DEL
ZZ
CALLE
PU
SAVORGNAN
MATTIA
CA
PISCINA
LE
FO
LE
O
SAN
DE
AM
L’ARCO
TA
OL
CALLE
EN
DE
AM
N G IR
SAN
ND
SA
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA
VECCHIA
TA
LLO
RUGA
FO
EN
TE
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
TA
CALLE
FORNER
EN
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
DEL
AM
SEBASTIANO
CALLE
FO
ND
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
CAMPO SAFFA
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
Canale
GIOBBE
People Mover Venezia
della
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
BRAGADIN
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
VENIER FONDAMENTA
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
DEL SABION
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CALLE
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
SANT'AGNESE
B
LA
Parco
LI
BRAGADIN
LA
PISCINA
EL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
INCURABILI
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
C A
FR
AN
VI
A
C
ES
S. Servolo
VI
A
SA
N
N TA
MA
P
O
N
M
IA
EL
AB
ET
TA
VI
A
IS
A
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AR
A
S
M
IR
N
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FO
C
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D
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IN
VI
VIC
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O
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AN
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A
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NU
O
A
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LE
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VIA
N
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BR
VI
GA
SA
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LE
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ISA
BE
AR
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AN
L
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OM
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MIC
VIA
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ICO
V I A L E PA N T O
L.
AR
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CO
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DAN
MOCENIGO
M
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O
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LM
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NG
OM
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E
GU
ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI
GL
VIA
VIA VETTOR PISANI
VIA
VI
A
FA
SA
MA
ND
RO
GE
AQU
TA
VIA
ER
VI
GR
DO
NZ
RI
Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
VIA
GO
SAN MICHELE
SAN SERVOLO
LU
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
IO
VI
IP
R
O
VI
A
DE
LL
'O
SP
IZ
IO
M
AR
IN
O
RIV
RO
IER
CIP
A S A
Hundertwasser' Garden
VIA
N N IC
CALLE ORTI
IA
NI
A
IS
NA
A
D
A
LM
A
ZI
A
AR
M
M
ZO
AR
C
O
N
EL
LM
RE
CO
NI
VI
LO
LO
IE
A
GL
VI
GU
O
E
VIA CAN DIA
Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
VI
A
VIA
CA
ND
IA
SANDRO
LU
NG
OM
AR
O SE LV
PO
VI
VIA
VIA
ENIC
GALLO
DOM
CO
GALLIPOLI
VIA
JA
VIA
Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m
TR
VIA
SANDRO
ISOLA
GALLO
DI LEMNO
LU
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
A
M
O
RO
SI
N
I
N
I
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
M O M EL
MB
ER
TI
Hotel Excelsior Venice
AN
LU
A
DR
EA
CA
LM
O
DI
CO
RI
NT
O
VI
N
G
O
M
AR
VI
TI
A
LA
LI
O
G
NI
U
TO
G
AN
SA
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PIZZAMANO
E
VIA
ND
BU
D.
AR
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O
RO
TR
GA
PIE
VIA
C
O
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S. Antonio Di Padova
A
RI
VA
VI
A
J.
DI
VI
A
A.
M
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P.
OR
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OS
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IN
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CRISTOFORO
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RC
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RO
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ISOLA SAN SPIRITO
SA
ND
RO
GA
LL
O
COLOMBO
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GA
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SAN
SAN PIGAFETTA
VI
ON
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NI
RO
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LI
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A
CO
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DE
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TT
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I R E
DE
L
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2
TA
VIA M
GIOVANNI ON
DI
NI
PIVIDOR
I
A VI CO OC AM AL M
CC O AM AL M A VI
A RIN CA TE
CA LLE
AR INI
NTA
CATE NE
C
O
PIAZZA DELLE ERBE
ERÀ RIO T
O NI RD DE E
LA
LL
EL ST E LL
RO UE SQ L
I NT
n ti
DI CA
ic a
IM EN
DE TA
FO
ND
AM
EN
De
ELLO CAST
GIUSTINA
TI I OR GL DE LL E
CA
PIETA’
EL LO
ve
AMEN
TA A R SE
EN
SA
TA
GI
PP
E
San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA
TERÀ RIO
E N N LO O C LE AL C
AL E G
Russia Pavilion
IA
SAN T'EL
LE
CH
INO
TTO
LA
ERA
ENA
GEN
C.
SS PA
A
Sant'Elena
F. LL
E
CA
LL
CA
1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
7 PALAZZO DUCALE
2 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI
8 THE GHETTO
AL
E
VI
TT
OR
IO
VI
VE
AL
NE
E
TO
E
IV
CA
RN
NO
AR
VE
VI A
LE
SAN
T' EL
EN A
6
O
M
BR
SANT’ELENA
E
Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
9
PONTE DI RIALTO
10 MURANO
4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO 5
H
7
TEATRO LA FENICE 6 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO
G
GN
ENA
ZU
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
T'EL ENTA SAN
NO
LE
FON DAM
E VIAL E PIAV
TI
see pages 4-5
3 CANAL GRANDE
F
BO
E
SA
ND
E
FO
NT
A
O
LL
M
DE
RIA
IO
C.
IO
E
SO
I VI
LO
LL
CAR
C
PIZ
GE
CA
C. D EL
Parco delle Rimembranze
OS
RO
AN
UE
EL
SQ
XXIV M AGG
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
Teatro Verde
CH
E
GR
MI
LL
MO
AN
E
L
CA
RA
E
LL
CA
LE
LL
LL E
CA
ON
Japan Pavilion
CAL
Top in Town
E
S MA
MAGGIORE
LI
RT
SAN GIORGIO
BB
MA
I
U I P
LO
DI
N
IN
EL
PO
N
RD
PI
M CA
EN
VA
United States Pavilion
VIALE
EL
EN TA AM
I
N
A
N
LO
5 LL
AM
VI
E
M CA
EN
CA
LL
AM
E
CA
CA
ND
T
AM
IO
CC A
CE
TT E
FO
ZI
TA
D
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
L EL
N
G
LA E PO
ION
NE
FO
N
LE
BB O
CE
O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA
LL E
ND
Giardini
ISOLA DI
SA
AL
SA IST
CA
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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5
Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle
MORE ON VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM 48 W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2018
Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)
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