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JANUARY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
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Venice January 2017 8
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the guide
OUT OF TOWN
22 SHOPPING
BAGARON
Tiffany & Co.’s first Venetian boutique illuminates the lagoon with its new space in Calle Vallaresso
C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
34 DINING
The ground floor atrium of T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is home to the new AMO restaurant 44 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
Parco San Giuliano
ISOLA DI TES
Palazzo Mocenigo, one of the most celebrated landmarks in the city
18
54 OUT OF TOWN
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Venice’s famous opera house is renowned for having hosted some of the world’s most notable musicians. In 2017, it will once again offer an impressive program.
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This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions, concerts and fairs.
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Take advantage of your stay in the city to treat yourself to an accessory or some other alluring detail of style.
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Contents
Experience an evening of magic in Venice with a unique mixture of music, history and art.
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52 ENTERTAINMENT
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JANUARY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY
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where Venice
WELCOME TO VENICE
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Happy New Year! Venice welcomes in 2017 with great enthusiasm. This year will once again be marked by a huge influx of tourists, important events and the opening of new shopping destinations, and that’s not all! Venice is uniquely famous for local crafts that have been produced here for centuries, and are difficult to come by elsewhere, including glassware, delicate lace, perfumes and fabrics, which can all be found at the numerous artisanal ‘botteghe’ scattered throughout the city. Big-name brands continue to arrive in the city, heightening the level of experiences linked to fashion and luxury (for example, T-Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the brand new luxury department store on the Grand Canal, which is celebrating its first New Year in the city). 2017 will also mark the opening of the 57th Biennale of Art, curated this year by Christine Macel, curator of Centre Pompidou in Paris. Out of season, Venice continues to dazzle the senses with its awe-inspiring masterpieces located in every corner and alley of the city, above every bridge and in each area of the canals. January is an unusual month in Venice, since it comes between the Christmas holidays and the annual masked and costumed Carnevale extravaganza, one of the city’s most eagerly-awaited events. Several parts of the city are bound to be far less packed, and some of your favourite restaurants might even be closed as the city recharges its batteries to explode in February with parades, floats and masked balls. But don’t think that this means that January is insignificant: ‘La città in festa’ event, with its Christmas markets, skating rinks (the most central is in Campo San Polo) and ad hoc performances lasts until mid-January. And then there’s the season at the great La Fenice Opera house, to which this month’s focus is dedicated: the new year year kicks off with the famous New Year’s Concert and continues with a series of prestigious performances dedicated to opera and dance. And the happenings at ‘palazzi’ and museums are not the only things that will leave you starry-eyed! The truth is that Venice in winter can be exquisitely beautiful, a marvelously eerie place of footsteps echoing along misty alleyways. Another pleasure when visiting Venice in the winter is the thick mist that often settles on the canals. This makes for surprisingly lovely, atmospheric pictures, allowing photographers to capture dream-like views of gondolas and capitals. Let yourself be seduced! Elena Binda, Editor
WHERE ITALIA SRL
Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL) MANAGING DIRECTOR
Daniele Misrachi
EDITORIAL COORDINATION
Alessandra Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici,
Joy Lacanlale
WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2016 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli ADMINISTRATION Katia
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VENICE ADVISOR Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Moreno Gallo, Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.
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Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
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4 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
PHOTO © DANIMISRA
Top in town
Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale.
6 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can
be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was
MORE AT PAGE 45 called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Canal Grande
Palazzo Ducale
Ponte dei Sospiri
EDITOR'S TIPS
THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’.
PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps.
THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
JANUARY
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating art, history and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
8 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
SUNDAY
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BRINGING THE PAST INTO THE FUTURE
Are you looking for a unique and enjoyable experience to make your stay in Venice even more special? Something combining tradition, art and music? If this is the case, look no further, I Musici Veneziani is just the ticket! Formed in 1996, this wellknown orchestra comprises a number of carefully selected virtuoso musicians. Dressed in exquisite typical 18th-century Venetian costumes and jewelry, the orchestra and singers perform concerts in the exclusive setting of the Salone Capitolare of the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro in the Rialto district. This evening the orchestra will treat the audience to a touching rendition of Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, four concerti for violin and strings, each of which gives a musical expression to a season of the year. The program is also enhanced by three other major concerti for strings.
© RENÉ BURRI, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA, USA, 1984 © RENÉ BURRI / MAGNUM PHOTOS
“The Four Seasons” by Antonio Vivaldi Other dates in January: 6, 22, 25 I Musici Veneziani at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro Campo San Salvador T: 041 5210294 - www.imusiciveneziani.com
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
WEDNESDAY
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WHERE GLASS TAKES SHAPE
▲ When visiting Venice, a trip to the famous Island of Murano is an absolute must! While on the island you can watch free shows of mouth-blown glassmaking and visit the Glass Museum. The museum is currently hosting an exhibition dedicated to the best glass works produced by Muranobased artists and glassmakers, where technique meets artistic mastery and design in 260 works created by ninety artists and fifty companies. In addition to large outdoor installations, the exhibition takes visitors on a tour of two rooms. One is dedicated to ancient techniques applied to new creations, while the other explores research combined with design. From glass pearls to goblets, bowls, sculptures, bead making, incalmo, Murrine techniques, mirrored glass and glass that is blown, beaten and engraved in furnaces, to produce what has been described as “a universe of ideas”. Until 25 April.
Murano Oggi. Emozioni di vetro. Museo del Vetro di Murano. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Isola di Murano. T: 041 5274718. museovetro.visitmuve.it
UNTIL SUNDAY
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THE FASCINATION OF WATER
► Last day to visit ‘Under Water’, the evocative installation by Fabrizio Plessi at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. This site specific project created by the internationally renowned artist is a tribute that blends art with technology and history. Resembling a giant Byzantine mosaic, just like art, which according to Plessi is fluid, ever-changing and dream-like, it undulates softly thanks to the gentle, almost elastic motion of the water.
Event Pavilion T Fondaco dei Tedeschi top floor Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
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JANUARY WEDNESDAY
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PEGGY GUGGENHEIM CELEBRATES ITALIAN ART
► Featuring over ninety works, this much-awaited retrospective marks the return to Venice of Tancredi Parmeggiani (1926–1964), among the most original and prolific Italian painters of the second half of the twentieth century. Tancredi was the only artist, after Jackson Pollock, whom Peggy Guggenheim placed under contract, promoting his work and organizing shows, including one in her own home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, in 1954. More than sixty years on, Tancredi returns to Palazzo Venier dei Leoni with this retrospective exhibition which, through a selection of exceptional paintings, reconstructs the brief and convulsive career of this great postwar artist. Until 13 March.
My Weapon Against the Atom Bomb is a Blade of Grass. Tancredi. A Retrospective Collezione Peggy Guggenheim. Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). www.guggenheim-venice.it
MONDAY
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DISCOVERING CA’ FOSCARI
▲ The tour through the most symbolic spaces of Ca’ Foscari, the historic headquarters of the University of Venice, starts at 2.30pm.The itineraries of the guided tours of the University, held year-round, allow visitors to admire and learn more about Ca’ Foscari and Ca’ Dolfin, the historical premises of the University, amidst frescoes, gardens and sweeping views of the Grand Canal. The tour starts from the palazzo’s picturesque courtyards and continues with the Historical Library exhibition where unpublished archival documents allow visitors to gain insight into the history of the two buildings. The main part of the tour includes the beautiful Aula Baratto designed by Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa in the 1930s and 1950s, an interesting example of modern architecture, boasting a unique view over the Grand Canal. The tour ends on the ground floor of Ca’ Foscari through the palace’s evocative water door exit on the Grand Canal.
Ca’ Foscari Tour Other dates in January: 24 and 30 (9.30pm), 25 and 31 (2.30pm) www.unive.it Reservation compulsory at cafoscaritour@unive.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House.
FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.
FRIDAY
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APRIL Festa di San Marco / Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day.
MAY Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga > A 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public.
JUNE/JULY Biennale of Art > An international exhibition of Contemporary Art (next edition: 2017) Biennale of Dance > (17-27 June 2016) An international dance festival Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello.
JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (third Sunday of the month) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre 2016 (26 July-28 August 2016)
COSTUMED REGATTA ▲ Venice celebrates Epiphany – one of Italy’s best-loved holidays – with the playful Regata delle Befane, a costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice. Fifty men dressed up as ‘befane’ (old crones) battle it out for a win on the Grand Canal. The race, lasting for 15 minutes, starts from San Tomà and ends at the famous Rialto Bridge where, to mark the occasion, a huge stocking is hung. Hot chocolate, vin brulé and other local sweet treats are distributed on the Rialto Bridge to celebrate this delightful holiday.
Regata delle Befane Canal Grande, from San Tomà to Ponte di Rialto. Starting from 11am at Palazzo Balbi bucintoro.org
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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (31 August-10 September 2016) Now in its 73rd consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. Biennale of Architecture (28 May-27 November 2016) An International exhibition of Architecture, held at the Giardini della Biennale and Arsenale venues.
SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta > first Sunday in September One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.
NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day.
DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
NOT JUST FOR SKIERS ▲ Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, Cortina d’Ampezzo, a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites, listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2009 on account of their extraordinary beauty. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina is the perfect destination for those who seek a truly special holiday experience. The spectacular scenery and full range of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town, attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, snowshoeing (even at night), glacier hikes, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh rides…to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. For information visit: cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com
Hot Venues CA’ PESARO-INTERNATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART Santa Croce, 2076. Map E3 www.capesaro.visitmuve.it › 17 September 2016 – 8 January 2017 CULTURE CHANEL. La donna che legge culture-chanel.com FONDAZIONE CINI.SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. Map G6 www.cini.it › 17 September 2016 – 8 January 2017 MINDFUL HANDS. I capolavori miniati della Fondazione Giorgio Cini MUSEO CORRER San Marco, 52 (Piazza San Marco). Map F4 www.correr.visitmuve.it › 28 May 2016 – 8 January 2017 IPPOLITO CAFFI 1809-1866. Tra Venezia e l’Oriente MUSEO DEL VETRO (GLASS MUSEUM) San Marco, 52 (Piazza San Marco). Off Map www.museovetro.visitmuve.it › 7 October 2016 – 25 April 2017 MURANO OGGI. Emozioni di vetro MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Cannaregio, 2902/b. Map D2 www.museoebraico.it › 18 September 2016 – 8 January 2017 PASSATO PROSSIMO. Il Ghetto di Venezia 1986-2016 › 15 January – 5 March 2017 SI NARRA UNA STORIA… PALAZZO FORTUNY San Marco, 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). Map E4 www.fortuny.visitmuve.it › 26 November 2016 – 27 March 2017 LA BOTTEGA CANDORIN. Una dinastia di artisti veneziani
DOUGLAS KIRKLAND, GABRIELLE CHANEL PORTRAIT (1962), DOUGLAS KIRKLAND COLLECTION, LOS ANGELES, © DOUGLAS KIRKLAND
OUT OF TOWN MESTRE. CENTRO CULTURALE CANDIANI Piazzale Candiani, 7. Venezia Mestre. www.visitmuve.it › 14 December 2016 – 5 March 2017 ATTORNO A KLIMT. Giuditta, eroismo e seduzione TREVISO. MUSEO DI SANTA CATERINA Piazzetta Mario Botter, 1. Treviso. www.lineadombra.it › 29 October 2016 – 17 April 2017 STORIE DELL’IMPRESSIONISMO. I grandi protagonisti da Monet a Renoir, da Van Gogh a Gauguin VICENZA. PALAZZO LEONI MONTANARI GALLERIE D’ITALIA Contra’ Santa Corona, 25. Vicenza. www.gallerieditalia.com › 7 October 2016 – 8 January 2017 GIOVANNI BELLINI A VICENZA. Un itinerario nel paesaggio
BASSANO DEL GRAPPA. MUSEO CIVICO Piazza Garibaldi, 34. Bassano del Grappa www.museibassano.it › 30 October 2016 – 19 January 2017 FRAMMENTI. Bassano e la memoria 1914, 1918, 2016 PADOVA. PALAZZO ZABARELLA Via degli Zabarella, 14. Padova www.zabarella.it › 1 October 2016 – 29 January 2017 L’IMPRESSIONISMO DI ZANDOMENEGHI VERONA. PALAZZO DELLA GRAN GUARDIA Piazza Bra, 1. Verona www.mayaverona.it › 8 October 2016 – 5 March 2017 MAYA. Il linguaggio della bellezza in Gran Guardia
Mayapán censer, Yucatán (12501527 d.C.). INAH ceramic. Museo Regional de Antropología, Palacio Cantón. Mérida, Yucatán
Museo Correr
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
La Fenice, the stage of Venice Venice’s famous opera house is renowned for having hosted some of the world’s most notable musicians, from Verdi to Maria Callas. In 2017, La Fenice will once again offer an impressive program. If you’re visiting Venice, this magnificent opera house is a must! Located in the heart of one of the Lagoon’s most vibrant districts, this theatre rose from the ashes following a devastating fire. BY ELENA BINDA
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rom Donizetti’s Lucia di Lamermoor to operas by Monteverdi, and with both commemorative and popular performances, La Fenice’s future promises to be as rosy and stimulating as the playbill recently presented by its superintendent Cristiano Chiarot and its artistic director Fortunato Ortombina, in collaboration with Franco Bolletta for dance. Twenty-three works, including opera and ballet, fifteen new productions and eight repeat performances, will be staged over one-hundred-and-thirty-six evenings. But this year’s exciting events calendar is not the only point of interest. Like almost everything in Venice and Italy, Teatro La Fenice has an amazing story. AN AMAZING STORY The history of La Fenice began with an architectural competition announced on 1 November 1789 for a theatre “that shall be most satisfying to the eye and ear of the audience” and with the highest architectural goal of being deemed “worthy of a capital where Palladio, Sansovino and other artists of the Great Century have left such noble monuments.” In other words, it had to be a building that was both a monumental architectural work and a jewel of acoustics, that could host prestigious performances. The competition was won by the architect Giannantonio Selva whose project, according to a reporter covering the opening, embodied a perfect mixture of “harmony, solidity and lightness” and one that “with its 174 identical boxes, conveyed the ideal of Republican equality.” As hoped by its supporters, the Theatre became a desirable location for the greatest musicians of that era and, during the most glorious period in the history of opera, it presented several “world premieres” 14 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS A THEATRE AT THE CINEMA La Fenice had a water entrance (on the left), located at the back of its main facade (below). Despite being abandoned for many years as an access to the theatre, it nevertheless earned a place in the history of cinema. In 1978, it was used as a setting for a scene from ‘Moonraker’ starring Roger Moore (other film locations included the Hotel Danieli, St. Mark’s Square and the Grand Canal, where the gondola used by James Bond overturned 5 times). On the next page: details of its sumptuous interior, with the Sala Apollinea decorated for a gala dinner and the monumental clock.
by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti, Verdi and Leoncavallo. It was also here, that for the first time ever, audiences were treated to operas such as La Traviata and La Bohème, to mention only a few. A NAME, A DESTINY However, the theatre’s name carried a disturbing prophecy. The company responsible for promoting its construction chose the mythological reference to the ‘phoenix’, the legendary bird capable of rising from the ashes. Initially, it simply alluded to the fact that the theatre had been built on the site of another theatre that had been forced to shut down. But history held another surprise in store: the building was, in fact, destroyed twice by fire. The first fire occurred in 1836, due to a malfunctioning stove. The theatre was quickly rebuilt and, apart from conservative 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
restoration work, was not touched until the end of the 20th century, with the exception of a symbolic replacement of the imperial loggia after a riot in 1848. However, the most tragic episode in the history of La Fenice was in 1996. Two electricians, commissioned to do some maintenance work, found themselves facing heavy fines over delays in the repair work they were engaged to complete. In order to avoid paying the fine, they thought that if they caused ‘just a little damage’ they could attribute the delay to forces beyond their control. This act of arson resulted in a raging fire that quickly spread, becoming unmanageable, and entirely consumed the theatre’s marvelous wooden structure. Although firemen worked tirelessly through the night to put out the fire, La Fenice burned to the ground causing the entire world of culture to shed tears of shock and grief. The reaction of the Venetians, supported by the generosity international philanthropists, was extraordinary. On 14 December 2003, in the presence of government authorities, La Fenice re-opened its doors with an inaugural concert conducted by Riccardo Muti. The gala concert opened with Beethoven's ''Consecration of the House'' Overture. La Fenice had once again risen from the ashes. LA FENICE TODAY With a seating capacity of over one thousand people, La Fenice boasts excellent acoustics (which were improved when the theatre was rebuilt after the devastating fire of 1996), a 98-member orchestra and 66-person opera chorus, a dedicated local audience and a large international following. The theatre is a leading creative venue, staging more than one hundred opera performances per year, a major symphonic season conducted
by prominent conductors from across the globe (including frequent collaborations with Myung-Whun Chung, Riccardo Chailly, Jeffrey Tate, Vladimir Temirkanov and Dmitrij Kitajenko), and a program that includes the full cycles of symphonies by Beethoven, Schumann, Brahms and Mahler. Faithful to its history, the theatre safeguards tradition by staging important Italian and international operatic works, including pieces by French, British, Slavic and German composers (Venice enjoys deep-rooted ties with both Britten and Wagner), offering its audience musical experiences of only the highest standard. The theatre frequently produces Baroque works, particularly those from the Venetian repertoire. After welcoming in the New Year with its impressive New Year’s concert, the theatre will continue to delight the public with a rich and varied program during the first few months of 2017, (for more detailed information visit www.teatrolafenice.it) including Wagner’s Tannhäuser, Puccini’s La Bohème, numerous classical concerts and a contemporary ballet by the Parsons Dance Company. HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF A CERTAIN MARIA CALLAS? As mentioned, even when no performances are being staged, the theatre is an attraction in its own right: it can be visited daily from 9.30am to 6pm (however, since variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons, we suggest that you either check the www.festfenice.com website prior to planning a visit, or ask your concierge for advice). And, La Fenice holds another surprise in store: over the next few months, the guided tour of the theatre will include an exhibition (located near the third floor boxes of the opera house) dedicated
PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
to Maria Callas. This exhibition explores the career of the ‘Divine’ opera star, tracing her seven Venetian seasons with archive materials, manuscripts and unique stage shots, portraying her as a young artist who, at that time, was unaware that she would one day become a legend. A THEATRE, A LANDMARK Thanks to its strategic position in Campo San Fantin, La Fenice is also a point of reference for anyone visiting the city. Bear in mind that the theatre is not the only attraction that should be visited while in the neighbourhood. Within the space of a few kilometers, you’ll come across a number of other must-visit sites, that ideally combine the sacred with the profane. Campo San Fantin is also home to the Ateneo Veneto, the university founded by Napoleon, now open to the public for concerts and events; just 100 meters further on you’ll find Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo (see page 49), a late Gothic building whose signature feature is its spiral staircase (climb to the top and look down, we promise you won’t regret it); lying just beyond it is the church of San Moisè, a Baroque church housing masterpieces by Tintoretto and other famous artists. This area is not only renowned for its cultural attractions, but also for its highend shopping. Although Venice’s glitziest shopping street is located just moments away, Campo San Fantin itself offers several gems including the Bugno art gallery, one of the best-known in Venice, and The Merchant of Venice, an artistic perfume shop that not only sells exquisite fragrances but offers a unique experience and a trip back in time. Because, since the dawn of time, the city has traded fabrics and perfumes with the East: long before it ever had a theatre…
CHARMING SHOPS AND EATERIES If you happen to be strolling through the neighbourhood around La Fenice, you’ll most definitely be spoilt for choice. Here is my pick of some of the city’s best-kept secrets with which you’re bound to fall in love. My favourite place to eat is the Osteria Ai Assassini (San Marco, 3695. osteriaaiassassini.it): its menu changes on a daily basis (it offers a good selection of meat dishes, cooked in a number of Romena Brugnerotto different ways, a rarity in Venice) and it is mostly patronized Tourist Advisor by people working in the district (a guarantee that its food www.rominvenice.com is good).My favourite dish? ‘Pocker di Bacalà. If, on the other hand, you’re in search of a quick snack, head to Pizzeria L’Angelo (San Marco, 3711- Calle della Mandorla) where in addition to top-notch pizza, you’ll also find a wide selection of vegan sandwiches. If you want to buy something unusual or take home a memento of Venice, here are two interesting addresses: Sartoria dei Dogi (Santa Croce, 1840-1842 - Calle del Tentor. www.sartoriadeidogi.it). Most of the bags, clothes and shawls sold here, including classical Venetian ‘tabarri’ (capes) are hand-made in-house. However, my favourites continue to remain their Kevlar bags. Another must-visit address is Chiosco Malefatte in Campo Santo Stefano Rio Terà dei Pensieri. Here you can find brightly-coloured bags in PVC, made from recycled materials, and original T-shirts silk screened with the recipe for spritz, a typical Venetian cocktail. If after browsing the Fenice district, you’re in the mood for something a little more cultural, I would recommend visiting Palazzo Fortuny (San Marco, 3780 – fortuny.visitmuve.it). Formerly home to the artist Mariano Fortuny, in addition to still being infused with the designer’s creative spirit, it also hosts a number of extremely interesting exhibitions. Go up to the last floor and enjoy a 360° view of Venice.
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GUIDE Whether you choose an accessory or a fragrance for him or for her, a decoration for the home or some local item, you will certainly be spoilt for choice in the magical city of Venice. Take advantage of a stroll through its picturesque ‘calli’ to treat yourself to an accessory or some other alluring detail of style. We guarantee that you won’t leave empty-handed!
▲ FANNY GLOVES Brightly-coloured gloves, handmade according to the best Italian tradition. Classical or eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or fur, the maison offers styles to suit all tastes and occasions. www.fannygloves.it
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► MICHELE DE FINA Michele De Fina's creations are authentic, handcrafted bags, designed and produced in the Veneto area. This No4 model, in brightly-coloured buckskin leather, with handles passing through eyelets on the bag’s upper edge, gives a nod to spring. www.micheledefina.it
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◄ RENÉ CAOVILLA The designer’s gold satin sandal with a 10.5cm stiletto heel and a glitter-encrusted sole is the perfect accessory for a Lagoon party. Featuring signature swirls and crystal trim, it frames the instep and wraps around the ankle thanks to a narrow, adjustable strap. www.renecaovilla.com.
► TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany’s heart beats for Italy with this limited edition heart charm bracelet, engraved with the name ‘Venezia’. The heartshaped charm belongs to the historic ‘Please Return to Tiffany’ collection first introduced in 1969. Only available at the brand’s Italian boutiques (the Venice store is located in calle Vallaresso). www.tiffany.it
► EMI ART GLASS The most priceless gift that you can find in Venice references the age-old art of glassmaking. Though enjoying deep-rooted ties with Murano, this contemporary ‘Picasso Style’ sculpture can be purchased at the brand’s store located just steps from St. Mark’s Square. www.emiartglass.com
► MONTEGRAPPA The ‘Ducale’ brand was invented in the 1930s to mark the high-end pens of the Elmo line. Its name drew inspiration from the famous Doge’s Palace, one of the symbols of the city of Venice. The brand has now added the ‘Ducale Murano’ to its collection. Crafted in steel and resin, it is delicately pearlised in the shades of the sea. www.montegrappa.com.
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► DAMIANI Available in pink gold embellished with fancy black diamonds, this timepiece literally oozes personality. A part of the D.Side luxury watch and jewelry collection, it has a truly unforgettable style. www.damiani.com ▲ BEVILACQUA TESSUTI Not just ordinary cushions, but cushions covered with artistic fabrics, recreated on 18th century looms, and based on original designs from the Bevilacqua family’s historic archives. Not merely home décor items but authentic pieces of history. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com
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◄ VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950
Vetreria Estevan Rossetto has been producing priceless glassware collections for decades. Guided tours to the family’s furnace in Murano are organized daily and its master glassmakers are always on-hand to explain the secrets of traditional glassmaking. Shown here is a Rezzonico glass. www.rossettomuranoglass.com
► CHANEL ‘Allure Homme Edition Blanche’ is an intense and singular perfume which maison Chanel describes as “a unique and explosive alchemy of hot and cold “.This oriental-fresh fragrance combines the citrus freshness of Lemon with an oriental breeze of New Caledonian Sandalwood. www.chanel.com
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WHERE NOW | ITINERARY
The island of Burano In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine
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POCKET BURANO You can also take the houses of Burano home as a souvenir. On the island you can find a number of artisans specializing in the reproduction of brightly coloured, miniature districts. However, the noblest craft of all is the lace-making. The lace made here is truly an example of an ancient art!
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A little less famous than its twin, Murano - the island of glass, with which it is often confused, due to the similar names (only the first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano famous. With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses make it is one of the most picturesque places on earth. THE HOUSES Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea of arriving on Burano and realizing that you’ve forgotten your camera could be a catastrophe. The island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the
rainbow, are truly spectacular! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of liqueur consumed to keep them warm…), devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the only thing worth admiring.
The island is the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. For example, though it can take up to five months to make a rectangular tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace makers are now equipped to deliver your item of choice to anywhere in the world. (Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. The risk that the lace is not handmade and not even Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187). BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped), are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many, of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Apetit! HOW TO REACH BURANO One Vaporetto line runs from Venice to Burano: the number 12. The journey lasts for approximately one hour after embarking at the Fondamente Nove stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes past and 20 minutes to the hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend another alternative: you can take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s a good opportunity to take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the works by MOSE, the huge hydraulic engineering project completed to protect the Lagoon. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
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Sparkling in Venice Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Tiffany & Co.’s first Venetian boutique illuminates the lagoon with its new space in Calle Vallaresso. By Stefania Vida
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ll the sparkle of Tiffany & Co.’s refined jewelry collections are now on display at its new must-visit store. For the new Venice location, Tiffany’s architects and designers created a modern store environment embellished with archival motifs. The façade is finished with Art Deco-style details and a wheat leaf pattern etched in Tiffany Blue glass, which distinguishes the façade of the Fifth Avenue flagship store in New York. Inside the elegant store, Tiffany’s diamonds illuminate all the collections, including engagement rings, radiant Tiffany yellow diamonds, Elsa Peretti’s jewelry of elegant simplicity and Paloma Picasso’s colorful creations. Customers will also discover the bold and graphic Atlas® collection, along with Tiffany T, created by design director Francesca 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
Amfitheatrof with all the energy and optimism of New York City, where the company was founded in 1837. Moreover, for a limited period of time, a special collection of bejeweled butterfly and dragonfly brooches, inspired by designs from the Tiffany Archives, will be available for viewing at an exhibition showcasing the luxury brand’s heritage of craftsmanship and tradition. This exhibition will be hosted in the foyer of ‘Teatro La Fenice’ until 26 March. The interior of the boutique co-exists in perfect harmony with the elegant, sophisticated style that has distinguished the brand since its inception. The jewelry and private sales salons are seamlessly designed with walls of cream velvet surrounding stainless steel display cases, panels of wisteria in white gold, and magnolias blossoming in
gold sconces by New York artist Michele Oka Doner. A location that has already become a must-visit stopover for visitors to Venice. A place where women can dream, be inspired and why not, even feel like princesses for one day! >> Tiffany & Co. www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso)
Tiffany Keys pendant, with Tiffany VictoriaTM key.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
Anatema
Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3
Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin.
Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his fatherin-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.
Contemporary shopping experience Spread over four floors surrounding an inner courtyard, luxury department store Coin Excelsior in Cannaregio is located just steps from the Rialto Bridge. A trip into the universe of fashion dedicated to the worlds of clothing, beauty and accessories. The ground floor hosts some of the world’s most coveted perfume brands including Jo Malone, Bond No. 9, Byredo and Diptyque as well as a sought-after selection of products dedicated to beauty. The first and second floors are devoted to women’s wear collections while, on the third floor, the offer of menswear is targeted at a discerning clientele in search of a gentlemanly selection of contemporary and classic apparel. Finally, the top floor is the go-to space for Coincasa’s must have home decorations. The store’s inner courtyard hosts ‘Be Happy’, the site-specific lighting installation created by well-known storyteller and multidisciplinary artist Felice Limosani. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.
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Since October, the world’s most coveted brands have a new home that gathers them all under one roof: T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian department store, located just steps from the Rialto Bridge.
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open MonSat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). Map F5 CALVIN KLEIN —it.calvinklein.com. Open MonSun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4559 (Calle del Teatro). T: 041 5202164. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). MAP E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5 GIORGIO ARMANI NEW OPENING www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072.
DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4
LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
CALVIN KLEIN CONTROL men’s chronograph watch, featuring a soft leather strap and a round 44mm stainless steel case. It is water resistant to 100 meters and has a Swiss quartz movement. 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line
Irresistible medium-size, black calf leather, chain handle clutch bag with macro and micro Lion Head studs from the VERSUS VERSACE FW 2016 collection.
MICHAEL KORS NEW OPENING www.michaelkors.com. San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 (open 6.30am-9pm). TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). VERSACE—www.versace.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco,
Whimsical patent PRADA Resort 17 lpump, with lip-shaped leather applications, a metal logo on the sole and a flower-shaped under-heel.
1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm).
Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
A modern princess, for the 2016 Fall/Winter season DOLCE & GABBANA dress their muse in a red wool stretch dress featuring large buttons and a jeweled buckle belt, paired with laminated leather pumps embellished with a sculpted ‘Chandelier’ heel. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25
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Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been Santissimo Redentore Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also Santa Croce and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ stocks a wide selection of international brands (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury Hundertwasser' Garden brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10amprovided by their customers. PASSION TIP 7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). stop). Off Map Map E3 C AL
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style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Le Zitelle Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. E LL TE ZI www.micheledefina.com. SanN TMarco, 318/A (Calle A E AM ND della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 FO (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 E CA
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Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
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PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 TTA
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Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting an impressive resume. The designer studied at several of the world’s most prestigious design schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3 ND
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An atelier dedicated to Made in Italy women’s clothing, footwear Angelo Raffaele San Vidal and accessories, featuring a small Solo Se... selection of items manufactured by San Sebastiano local artisans. A delightful, stylishly Ponte ● dell'Accademia decorated spaceChiesa where you can find di Ognissanti Gallerie dell'Accademia outfits designed to be worn on all occasions. In addition to the above,San theTrovaso store also carries a number of original objet d’art, including beautiful wooden ducks and penguins from Indonesia… Santa Maria in an ongoing quest for taste. Chiesa di Santa Mariadel Rosario Sant’Agnese FO
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SHOPPING
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This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian
René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers ISOLAinclude LA GRAZIA who adore his creations Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
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SHOPPING
JAEGER-LECOULTRE See page 28.
SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5
ART GALLERIES Bugno Art Gallery Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the gallery has cooperated with well-known artists on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, as well as other international contemporary painters. Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Contini Galleria d’Arte Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery is a reference point for dealers and collectors specializing in contemporary art works and sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5
Galleria Ravagnan Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and international renown, exports art works throughout the world and participates at prominent international
EMILIO CECCATO See page 60.
and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Melori & Rosenberg Gallery Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks of other well-known Italian and international artists. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4
CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta
IWC SCHAFFAUSEN See page 28.
boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi
Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
NEW OPENING The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am-7.30pm (OctoberMarch) and 9.30am-9.30pm (April-September). www. TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Boggi Milano
FASHION OUTLETS
An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.
Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27
SHOPPING
Artistic glass in Murano
Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. ww.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Chopard
Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany
sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (i.e.Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. Finally, the island’s glass factories are equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world… ask your concierge!
it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
Palmanova Outlet Village
JEWELRY & WATCHES
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the 28 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Damiani
NEW OPENING A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
IWC Schaffausen Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Jaeger-LeCoultre A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily
SHOPPING 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on the history of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making techniques. PASSION TIP Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto
line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tag Heuer Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker to master luxury sports chronographs with an unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Tiffany & Co.
NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041
An exclusive collection The Merchant of Venice exemplifies the historic role played by the city of Venice, worldwide, in the art of perfume-making. Founded by Mavive, it carries a selection of different product lines inspired by the tradition of the Venetian Republic; sublime craftsmanship and trade with the Far East. At its Flagship Store in Campo San Fantin you can discover the Murano Exclusive Collection. An ideal combination of unique fragrances; created by renowned master perfumers, they have the added refinement of being contained in typical Venetian blue and gold coloured glass bottles. Reinterpreting the most classic shapes of Murano glass design in a modern-day key, these masterpieces and are further enriched by decorations that originally inspired the name of each perfume. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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SHOPPING
Top antiques
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition.
Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
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Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antichità San Samuele
Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T:
Alessandro Zoppi
SHOPPING
041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
Ca' Nova
Franco Dell'Orto
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Venetia Studium
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IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE BY STEFANO TRAINE
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
Santa Croce
Nicolao Atelier
San Polo
Gems of Venice
Dorsoduro
San Marco
Castello Vino e... Vini
Testolini Jade Martine Ottica Mantovani
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Giudecca
AN ANCIENT VOCATION Venice’s natural ability for trade dates way back in time. Bearing in mind that each day, whatever the season, the city’s treasures attract thousands of visitors from all over the world, it’s no surprise that every corner of Venice is packed with shops and ‘botteghe’ selling all kinds of merchandise. So, we suggest that you try to be a little selective when shopping. Make sure that you choose a shop that really expresses the soul of the city. Here are a few tips for quality shopping.
GEMS OF VENICE
TESTOLINI
In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.
Montblanc, Parker, Tucano, Montegrappa and FaberCastell and are just some of the brands on sale at this ‘boutique’, a go-to address for collectible pens, high-quality gift items and small leather goods for the office.
www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148
www.testolini.it. San Marco, 4744/45/46. (Calle dei Fabbri). T: 041 5223085.
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JADE MARTINE The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be found at this small yet charming boutique that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ warmth and French charm. Sophisticated underwear and accessories, either for personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment of beautiful items, and courteous assistants are always on-hand to offer useful advice. A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995. San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892.
NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetianstyle period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties.
www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.
VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from San Marco. It carries a prestigious selection of Italian and foreign wines as well as an extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas. Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). T: 041 5210184.
Ottica Mantovani
dal 1871
OTTICA MANTOVANI
www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 T: 02 xxxxx More info: www.wheremilan.com
Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s. www.otticamantovani.it San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33
© MARTA BUSO FOR DFS
DINING
Three letters that embody taste The ground floor atrium of luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is home to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajamo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries. By Stefania Vida
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and the walls feature patterns inspired by the Carnival of Venice. The cafeteria, which is open throughout the day, begins serving food in the morning, starting with breakfast. The menu features a list of different types of Italian coffees paired with several light gastronomic offerings (with and without flour), and pastries where butter is substituted with olive oil. The counter located inside the cafeteria welcomes guests with an array of individually sliced cakes and macarons, gourmet sandwiches, ‘pizzette’ and a special type of fried ‘cicchetto’ that changes on a daily basis. The lunch and dinner menus, on the other hand, offer a selection of meat, fish and vegetable dishes, three different types of pizza (oven-baked, steamed or fried) and classic ‘Alajmo’ dishes including ‘Cappuccino di patate’ (potato capuccino)…Bon apetit!
>> AMO c/o T Fondaco di Tedeschi by DFS Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.alajmo.it/amo www.tfondaco.com
PHOTOS MATTEO DE FINA @DFS
A
t T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Venice’s new and dazzlingly luxurious department store, both Venetians and international visitors can satisfy their gourmet palates at AMO, the new location recently opened by the Alajamo brothers (Massimiliano and Raffaele), from one of Italy’s most revered culinary families. AMO is not simply a restaurant, but a place where the simple, authentic and light ingredients featured on the menu combine to free the spirit and open the heart. A great design space, where no detail has been left to chance and is magnificently curated, in this instance by the well-known French designer and architect Philippe Starck! Each piece of furniture is an embodiment of pure Venetian spirit. The sofas have been designed to look like gondolas, the windows have been forged by master glassblowers from Murano
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Alla Borsa Located just a stone’s throw from the La Fenice Opera House and St. Mark’s square, you can enjoy tantalizing, beautifully prepared Mediterranean cuisine at this elegant eatery. The kitchen is open from 12pm to midnight. €€€. www.ristoranteallaborsa.com. San Marco, 2018 (Calle de le Veste). T: 041 5235434. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E5
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Alle Testiere Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and seafood, with a menu that changes frequently and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www.osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle
A la Vecia Cavana
Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellstocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
LA CARAVELLA Set in an evocative and romantic ambience, this haven of culinary excellence boasts a fabulous selection of Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. See page 37
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DINING
“Five star” restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida La Cupola
Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com. The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages and offers an incomparable view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com. The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’ . PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com. Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge &
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Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chiane des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com. Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map F5
Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com. The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. This restaurant pays tribute to Italian gastronomy and excellence. Thanks to thematic islands featuring an open-plan kitchen, you can watch the chef turning out his culinary delights while you wait. The restaurant offers a fabulous selection of fine wines and champagnes to accompany your choice of fish or meat courses. Also serves tantalizing aperitivi. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1
DINING
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 La Cupola c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal Santa Croce, 578. T: 041 2752200. www.carltongrandcanal.com. A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Italian and international cuisine with genuine ingredients but with an innovative and original touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3
La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina (www.starwoodhotels.com). San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it. For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com. Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com. Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Met
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,
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'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4
Il Ridotto
DINING
Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Osteria da Fiore
Quadri
Dopolavoro
Oro
Venissa
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DINING
Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida was mainly frequented by an international clientele. www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it
Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either
for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).
Da Fiore
Giorgione
Harry’s Bar
A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele an unusual combination of Venetian specialties and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Da Mario alla Fava Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
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Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
DINING La Piscina
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
La Zucca While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Lineadombra
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.
Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative
atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www.locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map
Muro Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
LE MASCHERE A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37
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IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT BY STEFANO TRAINE
Burano
►
Al Gatto Nero Trattoria da Romano
Cannaregio
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Taverna al Remer
San Polo Dorsoduro
San Marco
Castello
Al Giardinetto da Severino
TRULY VENETIAN Looking for a really typical restaurant amidst the hundreds of venues you’ll come across while strolling through Venice? Here are a few tips to help you find the right place wherever you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying an excursion to the islands…
Trattoria Do Forni Antico Pignolo
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Giudecca
AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO RISTORANTE
Al Giardinetto
da Severino
Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style liver, ‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto.
www.algiardinetto.it Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332.
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AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Freshly caught fish and pasta are served at this family-run trattoria in the heart of Burano. The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since 1965. Must-try dishes include the chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’. www.gattonero.com Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120.
TAVERNA AL REMER Enjoy an authentic dining experience at this typically Venetian eatery, boasting a spectacular view over the Grand Canal.
www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701 (Campiello Remer). T: 041 5228789.
TRATTORIA
DA ROMANO BURANO VENEZIA
TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) Renowns for its simple yet delectable risottos ans its typical seafood dishes, this trattoria has been run by the Barbaro family for generations. Standouts includes mixed grill cooked over wood. www.daromano.it Burano - Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.
TRATTORIA DO FORNI Thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of Venetian hospitality, its owner, Eligio Paties has turned his restaurant into a sought-after culinary destination. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.
ANTICO PIGNOLO
www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 T: 02 xxxxx More info: www.wheremilan.com
Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and a well-stocked wine cellar. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
The daily life of a Venetian nobleman At Palazzo Mocenigo, a museum investigates the habits of a Patrician family, exploring its rooms, costumes and the indispensable accessory: perfume. By Elena Peverata
F
ormerly the home of the Mocenigos – a noble Venetian family, gifting the city with seven Doges – this beautiful palazzo in the sestiere of Santa Croce, now hosts the ‘Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume’, an interesting, charming museum featuring an itinerary dedicated to several aspects of the lives and activities of the Venetian nobility between the 17th and 18th centuries, including precious garments, olden-day accessories and a new, fascinating section dedicated to perfume. Inhabited by the Mocenigo family until the early 20th century, the palace was bequeathed to the City of Venice in 1945 by Alvise Nicolò, the last descendant of the family, on condition that it must be used as an art gallery. Restructured and renovated with a large number of artworks 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
and furniture recovered from the warehouses of the Civic Museums of Venice, it was opened to the public as a house museum in 1995. Due to its collections of fabrics and olden-day costumes originating from civic collections, and a specialized library, hosting an important collection of more than 13,000 figurines dated between the 18th and 20th centuries, it became the Museum and Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. In 2013, thanks to a significant contribution from perfume manufacturer Mavive, whose portfolio includes The Merchant of Venice brand, the museum was once again revamped and enriched with a new section dedicated to perfume; an ode to Venice's 16th-century status as Europe's capital of perfume. Today, this section offers visitors an enlightening journey through six rooms
featuring displays of artifacts and ancient documents, multimedia instruments and sensory experiences. The ground floor also hosts three new spaces: a Perfume Workshop, a Multimedia Workshop and the ‘White Room’ for temporary exhibitions.
>> Palazzo Mocenigo Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Open from 1 April to 1 November: 10am-5pm; from 2 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Monday. Ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS
boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Basilica di San Marco
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water
and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125
VENICE BIENNALE For more than a century, the Venice Biennale has been one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. Renowned for its avant-garde approach to research and the promotion of new artistic trends, it organizes important international exhibitions related to art and architecture (it is held bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is considered the world’s number one platform for its International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (annual), its Music and Theatre Festival and its more recent Dance Festival. In addition to its traditional appointments, it has added new, permanent activities over time. Costs, venues and opening hours vary according to the activity underway. Voucher Venezia Unica holders are eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). www.labiennale.org
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-
1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5
Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art
The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'
Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.
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Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
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The “Scuole Grandi”
Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map
Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to photography, design, graphics and applied arts. In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca 620.Map F5
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.
Scuola di San Rocco
Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with
paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www. ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.
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St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice
Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3
Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Museo Correr
The Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower and square overlooking the water, is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks. In addition to being the city’s most important church, the Basilica is a monument to the history of Venice, a grand treasure chest of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-to-be-missed highlight.
www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing
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PLEASE NOTE The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary artistic heritage. However, at certain times or on certain days, it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For more information visit www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that it is open for visits. On entering, visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, as this is a place of worship. Taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. Please note that you will probably have to wait for about 45 minutes in order to gain access to the Basilica.
may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org.
The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
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June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
Museo Querini Stampalia
PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com
objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo delle Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic
and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1
The masterpieces housed at the GLASS MUSEUM in Murano include this ‘Piastrina Millefiori Venezia’ by Giovanni Battista Franchini (1846). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49
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temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it
November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale
The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6
A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria
Palazzo Fortuny
Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics.
Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during
Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale
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Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an actionpacked calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays. This season both museums are currently closed to the public and will reopen on 9 April. Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www.palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo. visitmuve.it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5
Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger
and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco. it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th century
| SIGHTSEEING
and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can observe the complex mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it). Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Cold-painted terracotta by Arturo Martini, named ‘Prostitute’ (1913), donated by Maria Barbantini to the CA’ PESARO, International Gallery of Modern Art. capesaro.visitmuve.it
MUSEUM PASS Just one ticket for 11 museums > The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Museo di Storia Naturale. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
Museo Correr
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ENTERTAINMENT
Masked dream Enchanting arias and classic ballet performances featuring some of Italy’s best known orchestral ensembles, opera singers and ballerinas wearing Venetian masks and 18th century costumes: experience an evening of magic in Venice with a unique mixture of music, history and art. By Elena Peverata
S
lipping into a dream-like Venetian atmosphere and reliving an evening as an 18th century lady or gentleman is not only possible, but an absolute must. A unique opportunity to experience the fascinating atmosphere of that masked world that epitomized the Venice of Casanova, Canaletto and Goldoni, while losing yourself in haunting music at one of the city’s most unusual locations. Musica in Maschera is a fascinating project, a concert/performance combining music with the mysterious, seductive world of Venetian masks. The program features two musical options designed to suit individual tastes: one spotlights Baroque music with a rendition of Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and pieces 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
by other great composers of the period interpreted by an ensemble of musicians wearing exquisite 18th century costumes and artisanal masks, accompanied by the dreamy notes of a harp, and with dance sequences performed by a classical ballerina. In the other program, you will experience a mixture of opera and ballet, performed by costumed musicians and singers hailing from several of Italy’s best orchestras. You will listen to hauntingly beautiful arias, while watching a dancer subtly interpreting the musical intermezzi, infusing this performance with an unforgettable, dream-like quality. The performances are held at the monumental Scuola Grande dei Carmini, the last of the eight Great Schools that existed in Venice until
the fall of the Republic (see page 49), whose Sala del Capitolo boasts nine incomparable ceiling frescoes painted by Giambattista Tiepolo, and other masterpieces. Perfect acoustics and the intimate beauty of this building act as the ideal setting for an evening of music. The experience becomes even more special if you indulge in the option of a pre-performance dinner at a typical Venetian restaurant located in front of the concert hall. >> Vivaldi Four Seasons and Ballet: 2, 6 January Opera Balletto: 3, 7, 14, 21, 28 January Scuola Grande dei Carmini, Dorsoduro 2616-2617 T: 041 5287667. www.musicainmaschera.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Teatro Malibran Opened in 1678, during the 17th and 18th centuries, the theatre, at that time known as ‘Teatro San Giovanni Crisostomo’, was mainly famed for its operas. Dripping with elegant ornamentation, it was known as the biggest, most beautiful and richest theatre in the city. Acquired by the City of Venice in 1992, after being restored and enlarged, it temporarily hosted the orchestra of La Fenice Theatre which was destroyed by arson in 1996 (see listing). In 2001, it became Venice’s second largest alternative for opera. www.teatrolafenice. it. Cannaregio, 5873. T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F3
opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE
VENETO HOT VENUES
www.teatrolafenice.it
Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2
Centro Benessere Casanova
GAMBLING & CASINOS
An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4
Casinò di Venezia
San Clemente Palace Kempinski
Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino,
Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa –
■ OPERA 20, 24, 28 January and 1, 5 February TANNHÄUSER Music by: Richard Wagner Omer Meir Wellber, conductor Calixto Bieito, director Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master Ingo Krüger, costumes ■ CONCERTS 7, 8 January (Teatro Malibran) RISTO JOOST CONCERT Music by: : Ildebrando Pizzetti, Jean Sibelius Risto Joost, conductor La Fenice Orchestra Alberto Ferro, piano 27, 29 January MAREK JANOWSKI CONCERT Music by: Johannes Brahms, Franz Schubert, Robert Schumann Marek Janowski, conductor La Fenice Orchestra the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
Eforea Spa The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 53
OUT OF TOWN
Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii
Verona and the Adige river
approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Built in 1721 and set within one of the most beautiful parks in Italy, its interiors are enhanced by numerous works of art, including the magnificent ceiling frescoed by Tiepolo. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira,
historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. For more info visit www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km
VILLAS OF BRENTA AMIDST ROMANTICISM AND BIEN VIVRE Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Although the Arena attracts music lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house (in via Cappello 23) with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony, while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are
Marostica ?
LUGANO MENDRISIO
Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona
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NOVARA
MILANO Mantua
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Abano Montegrotto ?
Padua
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Palmanova
? ? Noventa di Piave
?Venice
TRIESTE
? Chioggia
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
Treviso
FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA
BOLOGNA
RIMINI
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
MAR ADRIATICO
PISA
LIVORNO
FIRENZE ANCONA
CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page an aerial view of Verona, a World Heritage site. On the right, a corner of Padua. Below, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas and, at the bottom, Treviso.
you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. Its linear, classical façade conceals frescoed rooms and luxurious interiors that are further enhanced in the evening by flickering candlelight. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. For more info visit www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com
Padua
TREVISO Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst its streets adding a unique touch of charm to its historic centre encircled by the old town walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close relationship with its waters. The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei Carraresi which hosts prestigious international exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of its own brimming over with picturesque osterie and small cafes overlooking its squares. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz' cocktail.
DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km
Villa Pisani, Stra
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OUT OF TOWN | ABANO-MONTEGROTTO
Euganei Hills
A unique blend of nature, art and wellness Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town.
At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has gained international recognition. In addition being published in leading art and botany books, it was named the most beautiful garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was used as the setting for the Merchant of Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, chose it for a program that was aired live and, in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, dedicated an installment of the program ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting it from among twenty of Europe’s most important historical gardens. Each year, the garden is a highly sought-after destination for international tourists.
THE MAJESTIC PARK, THE STAR OF THE SHOW The villa, which was used as a residence prior to the design of its monumental garden, complements the majestic park. In fact, it is the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main feature. The garden was built during the second half of the 17th century by Venetian nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio.
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It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the religious symbolism of the project designed by leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or Portal of Diana was not the only main access route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing gateway represented the beginning of the Road to Salvation, ending in the open space that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also known as the Fountain of Ecstasy.
A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian stone. There are also other minor sculptures that blend harmoniously with the architecture, streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features and fish pools that are scattered amidst numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the complex itself, important highlights along the Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,
WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its monumental garden is located in an area steeped in nature and history, the ideal destination for art lovers and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to the thermal waters of Abano and Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after destination for those in search of relaxing, wellness retreats
OUT OF TOWN Advertorial
Garden of Villa Barbarigo
visitors could access the Portal of Diana – socalled because of the goddess of hunting who stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio (from which the garden takes its name) to reach the landing stage in front of the garden.
AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden boasts a number of fully operative water features and is currently one of the largest, best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit for the preservation of this beautifully tended
garden is owed to the loving care bestowed upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel family and the Counts of Martinengo during the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Rose during the early 20th century. The villa and it gardens have been the property of the Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners of the estate for three generations, the PizzoniArdemani family not only repaired the damage caused by military occupation and the forced abandonment of the villa during World War II, but also recently renovated all of the garden’s 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of gradual ground-water depletion. www.valsanzibiogiardino.it info@valsanzibiogiardino.it
The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website.
Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo
WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Thermal Water” line, thermal spring water is combined with two anti-ageing properties: hyaluronic acid which helps to restore skin elasticity, and natural antioxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from the effects of ageing. This line is a result of the combination of thermal water drawn from four springs in the Veneto region, mixed to obtain different concentrations based on their specific salinity: water from the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating from deep underground springs); the low mineral content water from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ in Crespano (home to the spring named for Empress Sissi ); and finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through the municipalities of Abano, Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and Galzignano at a temperature of 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ can be purchased online at www.aquaehotels.it or from the best hotels and sales points in the area. Ask your concierge.
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2017
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!
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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE
FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo Dorsoduro
Castello
San Marco
Giudecca
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
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ESSENTIALS GETTING AROUND VENICE
Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.
Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from www.veneziaunica.it. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attractios for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by
tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages,
including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.
PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!
A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.
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Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com
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THE LIDO OF VENICE
Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.
The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.
WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.
The Excelsior Venice Hotel
Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time.
WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.
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ZO
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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
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Santa Maria delle Penitenti
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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca
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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
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ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
MURANO 10
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
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Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
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Japan Pavilion
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Russia Pavilion
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United States Pavilion
AL
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N
EMB
PALUDO CALLE
ISOLA DI
FO
E IV NOV
TERRÀ
Giardini
S. Giorgio
Spirito Santo
VIAL
ZATTERE
PALUDO CALLE
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
CALLE DELA CREA
Spirito Santo
Rio d el Giardini
BO
DEL CALLE
DONZELLA C.
CALLE
BRESSANA
CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE
SANTA CAMPO
CANNAREGIO
LOVO DEL CALLE
C. DE LA MADONETA
RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
CALLE
I ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIULI
DO
FOORNO
Ca’
GA
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE DE
LE
CALLE
APOSTOLI
CALLE
PISTOR
SANTI
DEL
VERDI
CALLE
SOFIA
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
STAGNERI
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO SALIZADA
BOMBASEI
APRILE
CALLE
MERCERIA
II
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
CORONA DELLA
C.
LEONARDO
LA SACRESTIA
C. CORONA
CALLE RIMPETTO
ALBANESI CALLE DEL
CALLE DE LE RASSE
DE
CATERINA
L’ABAZIA Misericordi
CAMPO
SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
MISERICORDIA FOND.
CALLE
ENA
BALD
CALLE
I S ET
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
FONDAMENTA
I CASE
DELLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
NUOVE
DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE
C.SANT’ANTONIO
ROSA
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
LARGA
CALLE
ETTI,
LA
VECCHIA
CALLE
TI, RÀ
DE
FA R S
ET
CALLE
CORTE
RS FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE
CALLE
DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
TREVISAN
CAMIN
RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
PESARO
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
SAN TRAGHETO
FONTEGO
MEGIO
DEL
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
DEL
SALITA
CALLE
C.
STAE
FORNO
SAN
DEL
CA’
LUCIA
C.
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZADA
ROSA
SANTA
CALLE
GRUE
DEL
LE DE
CALLE
CARMINATI
CAMPANIEL
PICCOLO
DEL
REGINA
SALIZADA
LA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
SIMON
DE CALLE
BOTERI
DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA
DE
DE
CALLE
CALLE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO DRIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CALLE
ROCCO SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI CALLE
MUNEGHE
LE DE CALLE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA
DA PONTE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE
DE
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
VA
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
CALLE
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
COLTRERA
DOGE
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
DEL
RAMO DE
CALLE
CALLE
AMEN
TANA
CALLE FRIZIER
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
FOND
DE LA
C. LOREDANA
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
E N TA
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CALLE
SANGIANTOFFETTI
VIDA
CROSERA
EREMITE
LA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DAM
DEI
DE
CASTELLO
FONDAMENTA
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
DEI FORNI
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
RIO TERRÀ
Giardino delle Vergini Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
RI
San Gregorio
CALLE DEL BASTION
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
DI
DEI CORTELLOTTI
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
PIETRO
NANI
DE CALLE
CROSERA
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
SAN
CALLE
L’ANZOLO
PISCINA
DE
RUGA VECCHIA
FOSCARINI
NUOVE
DONA
DE
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
C. VOLTO
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
VENIER
DE
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
SEBASTIANO
CELESTIA
CALLE
DEL PIOVAN
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
FONDAMENTA
ANTONIN
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
BRAGADIN
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
BASTION
VERONA
TERRÀ
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SCUDI
CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
PISCINA
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
SAN SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
BIAGIO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE DELLE GATE CALLE DEI FURLANI
VONI
100 m
SAN
ND
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
SALIZADA
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA
CALLE TERAZZERA
San Zaccaria
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
DE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
FONDAMENTA
FO
SAN
SALIZADA
CORTE SACCA
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
DEL
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
DEI
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RIO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
DEGLI
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
DEL
PISCINA
VERONA
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
C. PIANTON
O
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
LA
CALLE
DE
VENIER FONDAMENTA
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
CALLE
DEI PRETI
GATE
CALLE
DRASI
CERERIA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
ZORZI SALIZADA
DE LE
FABBRI
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
RC
CALLE
LA
DEL CAFETIER
CORTE NOVA
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
R I VA
A N M
SALIZADA
PORTO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SEVERO
DE
LATERANO
SAN
C.
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
SA
MEZO
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
a
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO
SAN
CALLE
RC
FONDAMENTA
SAN
DEL
DIREZIONE
BARBARIA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco MA
SAN
Museo Correr
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
San
Marittim
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
ORBI
DE LE
DEI
CALLE
Rio
LARGA
Santa Maria del Pianto
FORNO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
DEL
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
CALLE
BEMBO
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
ZZA
REMER
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
PIA
O DEL
CINQUE
RIO
CALLE
MAGAZZINI
DEI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
COCCO
TOSCANA
C.
AI
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
G. GALLINA
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
SAN
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
Bacino Orseolo
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CASTELLI
CALLE
DE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CALLE
SALIZADA
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
CORTE GRAGOLINA
GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
San Moisè
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
NOVE
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
CAMPO SAN LIO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
BALOTE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
CORTE BAROZZI
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
DEI
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
LE
DELLE
SAN
DEL CALLE
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO SANTO
CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
BOTERI
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
LARGA
RIO
Teatro Malibran
C. DEL
SAN
C.DE
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
PISCINA
XXII MARZO
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
SABION
MAGAZEN
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
ORESI
CALLE
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
MADONA
Stazione
FABBRICHE
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
CALLE
Palazzo Genovese
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE ALLO
LE
CALLE
DOLERA
DEL CALLE
DE PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
MICHIEL
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
RAMO
S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
San Fantin
Casa di Marco Polo
FONTEGO
PIO
TEATRO
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CALLE ASSASSINI
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
CORTE SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto Rialto
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
SAN CALLE CALLE
Teatro la Fenice
Santa Maria del Giglio
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Fontego CALLE LARGA Dolfin Manin MAZZINI
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
San Luca
TEATRO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
CALLE
SARTORI
TERÀ
San Giovanni Grisostomo
DE
CALLE
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
ZEN
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
SOTOPORTEGO
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
CALLE
Santa Maria del Rosario
Zattere
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DEL
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
CATERINA
CALLE
C.
DEL
FONDAMENTA
SANTA
Santi Apostoli
Chiesa Evangelica Luterana
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Palazzo Rava
S.Silvestro
DEL
DEL
CALLE
Santo Stefano
Canal Grande
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
VOLTI
RAVANO
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
DEL
RUGHETA
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
NOVE
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
San Beneto CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CORTE
PONTE
FONDAMENTE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
DEL CALLE
de r an
NARISI FOND.
DE
San Vidal
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
Ca’ D’Oro
Ca na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd e
MUTI
Sant’Aponal
TRAGHETTO
zera
TRAPOLIN
LA
San Felice
CA’
BOTA
CAMPO SAN APONAL
DEL
DIETRO
Abazia della Misericordia
IA
VENDRAMIN
DEL
LA
CARAMPANE
PERDON
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
D
CALLE
Rio Nuovo
Bacino
R
CALLE
TABACCHI
Scomen
O
DONZELA
NUOVA
Canale
IC
CALLE
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Sant’Agnese
VAPORETTO
ER
CA'
DE DE
DE
al G
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
FALIER
FONDAMENTA
DEL
IS
DE
CALLE CALLE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Can SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
Palazzo Loredan
Ponte dell'Accademia
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
Gallerie dell'Accademia
LONGO
CALLE
M
FONDAMENTA
LA
CALLE
DE
TA
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
CARROZZE
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
FOND.
EN
Santa Fosca
TIOZZI
L’AGNELLA
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CA’
LEZZE
LE
San Samuele
CALLE
ZATTERE AL
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna
DEI
DE
SCALETER
CALLE
CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
D
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
DEL
Palazzo Mocenigo
RAMO
Ca' Rezzonico
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE CHIESA
N
S.Stae
San Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
DE
C.
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi
CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
DELLA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
Madonna
MORI
NA
La Maddalena
TRON
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
San Tomà
Palazzo Balbi
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
SAN
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CROSERA
San Barnaba
NA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Maria Mater Domini
Palazzo Grioni C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
L’ASEO
Accademia
DE OGNISANTI
CA
DE
PAPADOPOLI
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
LE
ALE
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
PRETI
CALLE
NIE
DD
MORETTI
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
TINTORETTO
DEI
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
.DA
MA
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
SAN
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
DE
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
CALLE
CALLE
San Pantalon
FOMO
LA
SAN BOLDO
CALLE
RIO
San Rocco
Muneghete
RENIER
DEL
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
S. Basilio
100 m
C.
CALLE
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
À D E
Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
TINTOR
LA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
NUOVO
FO de Servi N
TER
S.Marcuola
DE
DE LA VIDA
San Giacomo dall'Orio
DEL
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
Santa Maria dei Carmini
Misericordia
FO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
RAMO
Rio
CALLE
Carmini
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
della
Rio
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
San Zan Degola
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
RUGA BELA
CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
DEI
BESAGIO
Rio
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
LARGA
PONTE SALIZADA SAN
Palazzo Gidoni
RIO
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
San Sebastiano
IA
VECCHIO
CALLE LUNA
SALIZADA
del
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RD
R
San Marcuola
DEL REMER
I CALLE ORSETT
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
DORSODURO
ICO
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
LA
DEI AMAI
San Nicola da Tolentino
MINOTTO
Magazen
CALLE
Rio
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
LARDONI
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA
CANAL
DE CAMPO
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
FONDAMENTA
Angelo Raffaele
CALLE
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI ER
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
LA
PROCURATIE
CERERI
DE L’OGIO
MIS
RIO
CAMPIELLO
BIASIO
DI
BARI LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
FONDAMENTA
Soranzo Cappello
CORTE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
DEI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
TA
E DEL PISTO
STRADA
DE
RIVA FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
EN
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
DEI
MADONA
AM
CALL
NUOVE
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
FONDAMENTA
LA
ND
I
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
Ponte degli Scalzi
Ferrovia
CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
DE
LER
San Leonardo
San Geremia SPAGNA
DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
Rio
SCALZI DEI
Sant'Andrea SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
CAVALLETTI
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
SE
FO
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Museo Ebraico
CAL
NA
AI
People Mover Venezia
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
EN
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO
AM
San Girolamo
SE
TRONCHETTO
MERCATO
ND
INE
SAVORGNAN
Palazzo Labia Salone del Tiepolo
CALLE DEI FUSERI
ZZ
FONDAMENTA
A E M
CALLE
DEL
DIREZIONE
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAPITELO
CASE
PU
LL
NOVA
TRONCHETTO
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
DEL
CA
CA
ISOLA
People Mover Venezia
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa FO
LE
O
PIAVE
DE
AM
CALLE
TA
OL
LARG
EN
DEL SABION
BECCARIE
AM
N G IR
Palazzo Nani
FONDAMENTA
LE
ND
SA
C.
TA
LLO
FONDAMENTA
FO
EN
TE
Parco Savorgnan
CALLE
AM
B AT
D’ORO
ND
TA
DEL
EN
CALLE
AM
MATTIA
FORNER
FO
ND
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
SAN
DEL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
della
COLETTI
Canale
GIOBBE
CAMPO SAFFA
L’ARCO
CALLE
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
DE
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
SAN
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
VECCHIA
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
Parco "Villa Groggia"
Monastero Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
RUGA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
SANT'AGNESE
B
BRAGADIN
LI
PISCINA
LA
FONDAMENTA
EL
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
INCURABILI
LE
CALLE
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
C A
FR
AN
VI
A
C
ES
S. Servolo
RI
VI
A
SA
N
N TA
MA
P
O
N
M
IA
EL
AB
ET
TA
VI
A
IS
A
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AR
A
S
M
IR
N
M
.
FO
C
O
D
U
O
D
O
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AR
IN
VI
VIC
PA
OL
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OL
O
A
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ZE
À
M
AU
FR
AN
C
ES
C
O
D
U
O
D
O
RO
NO
AN D'
A
ZAR
VI
A
I
E
TE
NU
O
A
R
LE
EG
VIA
N
IE
A
BR
VI
GA
SA
RIA
E
LE
EL
ISA
BE
AR
VIA
S TA
AN
L
T TA
OM
HIE
NG
LL GA
MIC
VIA
DOL
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ICO
V I A L E PA N T O
L.
AR
VIA
CO
NI
DAN
MOCENIGO
M
ZIO
O
E C I PA
LM
O PA RT
IE
ORS
NG
OM
AR
E
GU
ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI
GL
VIA
VIA VETTOR PISANI
VIA
VI
A
FA
SA
MA
ND
RO
GE
GO
O
GR
DO
AQU
TA
VIA
ER
VI
Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
VIA
NZ
SAN SERVOLO
LU
SAN MICHELE
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
IO
VI
IP
R
O
VI
A
DE
LL
'O
SP
IZ
IO
M
AR
IN
O
RIV
RO
IER
CIP
A S A
Hundertwasser' Garden
VIA
N N IC
CALLE ORTI
IA
NI
A
IS
NA
A
D
A
LM
A
ZI
A
AR
M
M
ZO
AR
C
O
N
EL
LM
RE
CO
NI
VI
LO
LO
IE
A
GL
VI
GU
O
E
VIA CAN DIA
A
VIA
CA
ND
IA
SANDRO
LU
NG
OM
AR
O SE LV
PO
VI
VIA
VIA
ENIC
GALLO
DOM
CO
GALLIPOLI
VIA
JA
VIA
Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m
TR
VIA
SANDRO
ISOLA
GALLO
DI LEMNO
LU
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
VI
Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
A
M
O
RO
SI
N
I
N
I
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
M O M EL
MB
ER
TI
Hotel Excelsior Venice
AN
LU
A
DR
EA
CA
LM
O
DI
CO
RI
NT
O
VI
N
G
O
M
AR
VI
TI
A
LA
LI
O
G
NI
U
TO
G
AN
SA
R AT
PIZZAMANO
E
VIA
ND
BU
D.
AR
O LL
O
RO
TR
GA
PIE
VIA
C
O
VIA
S. Antonio Di Padova
A
RI
VA
VI
A
J.
DI
VI
A
A.
M
ED
P.
OR
GA
OS
RZ
IN
ON
I
I VI
A
LE
ON
AR
DO
LO
O
RE
DA
N
RC
EL
LO
VI
I
MA
LD
O
I
VA
TT
RC
ON
VI
MA O LM IE NG
CRISTOFORO
LU
VIA
OM
AR
E
VI
A
GU
SA
GL
DE
O
O
NI
NE
LL
TO
BE
GA
VA
AN
ND
VI
RI
A
RO
ISOLA SAN SPIRITO
SA
ND
RO
GA
LL
O
COLOMBO
A
VIA
VIA
GA
NI
SAN
SAN PIGAFETTA
VI
ON
PIGAFETTA
LIDO
A
I S E
SS
O LL GA
NI
RO
A VI
A
ND
VI
AN
DR
SA
VA
DE
EA
A
RI
A
DA
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GI
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CO
NN
LA
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VI
NS
ND
ON
EL
LI
NO
DA
SP
IR
A
VIA
VI
AS
OL
A
A
VIA FRANCESCO
VI
A
RI
SA
VI
ND
ER
A
RO
PA
GA
SQ
LL
O
UA
LI
PEZZANA
VI
VI
A
CO
A
DE
LE
TT
A
I R E
DE
L
Z AT
2
TA
VIA M
GIOVANNI ON
DI
NI
PIVIDOR
I
A VI CO OC AM AL M A
PARRI
CC O AM AL M A VI
A RIN CA TE
CA LLE
AR INI
NTA
CATE NE
O
PIAZZA DELLE ERBE
ERÀ RIO T
O NI
RO UE SQ L DE
n ti
DI CA
ic a
nd
IM EN
DE TA
i M e
NT
I
E
EN
AM
FO
ND
De
R io
ELLO CAST
GIUSTINA SANTA
TI I OR GL DE LL E
CA
PIETA’
E CA ST
EL LO
ve
TA A R SE
VID A
LA TANA
E N N LO O C LE AL C
I
N
LO
E
5
SA
TA
N
GI
PP
E
San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA
TERÀ RIO
IA
SAN T'EL
TTO
C.
SS
ZU
GN
A
Sant'Elena
F.
PA
see pages 6-7
S. Servolo
INO
LA
CH
EL
LE
AR
ERA
ENA
H
GEN
ENA
G
LE
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
T'EL ENTA SAN
LL
E
CA
LL
CA
Top in Town
CAL
FON DAM
NO
IA
F
TI
ER
SO
BO
ND
CAR
SA
FO
E
A
NT
LL
O
DE
M
E
IO
C.
LO
LL
C. D EL
I
IO
GE
CA
XXIV M AGG
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
C
PIZ
RO
AN
UE
EL
SQ
LI
ON
OS
AN
BB
E
Japan Pavilion
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO PONTE DEI SOSPIRI CANAL GRANDE SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO TEATRO LA FENICE CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO PALAZZO DUCALE THE GHETTO PONTE DI RIALTO THE ISLANDS
CH
E
GR
LL
MI
LL
MO
Teatro Verde
LL E
CA
S MA
E
L
CA
RA
MAGGIORE
E
LL
CA
LE
SAN GIORGIO
U I P
RT
IN
MA
RD
LO
DI
I
United States Pavilion
VIALE
E VIAL E PIAV
Russia Pavilion
G
EL
PO
N
CC A
A
EN
AL
PI
M CA
N
LA E PO
LL
AM
VI
E
M CA
EN
EN
VA
CA
LL
AM
E
CA
CA
ND
T
AM
IO
LE
CE
TT E
FO
ZI
TA
D
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
L EL
N
G
AL
ION
NE
FO
N
U
BB O
CE
O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA
LL E
ND
Giardini
ISOLA DI
SA
Q
SA IST
CA
FO
E US
S. Giorgio
TA
LE
C.
NA
RI
R L C
MA
DE
CO
C.
RE
O
EL CA LL
ERA
O E ANC
SE
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
AL
C A L L E C ATA PA N
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALL
RI
C
SANT'ANNA
CALLE CORERA
ALDI
TI
IB PE GAR
AR
IAN
M
GIUSEP
E
SARES
TT
CALLE
Punta della Dogana
I S E
DOME NICO CALLE SAN
DE
VIALE
NA
PO E COP
IAVO E SCH
CALL
CALL
VA
SALUT E
AM ON
V TA
N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA
I GELO CALLE DELL’AN
BALD
SAL
LE
OS E CR
I
GARI
A C. LOREDAN
San Francesco di Paola
RERA
VA E NUO
DELFINA CALLE
GRIMANI CALLE
oise
EPPE
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA CALLE FRIZIER
CALL
ESSO
PRET E DEI
LAR
E COLT
CALL
VAL
RTIRI
IUS VIA G
CAL
IN
ST
FONDAME
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
FONI
CA
RAMO DE
RI
NDAM ENTA
SAL IZAD
TAN A
MARA
CALL E
DI
AM
DE LA
CALL
CALLE
FO ND
CAM PO
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
CALLE TERCO
NALE
O
EN TA
LA
A RO SA
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
AMEN
E LA RG
RE
FOND
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL
EMB
DE I FO RN I CA LL E
LE
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
O
I MA
100 m
ENA
TR
E
DEI FORNI
Arsenale
ARS
P IE
ION
FONDAMENTA
NI
E N TA
N
DE
DAM
A STR ETA
mo DEI
ARSENALOTTI
M OR OSI NA
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
FON
FONDAMENTA
CA LLE
ini
E IV NOV
DE L CA GN OL ET O
CAL LE
Verg
SA
ONI
CAL LE
S C H I AV
CA LL E
R I VA D EGLI
PES CAR IA
CALLE DEL DOSE
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
VONI
San Martino
CALLE DEL FORNO
I ITT GR
Rio de San Gerola
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
AL
E LL CA
CR OSE RA
de le
Arsenale di Venezia
RIN ST PE
L’A
CA LL E
E DE LL CA
RS EN
NATER PIG
DE
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
4
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
VIAL
am Fond
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
Can
N SA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Rio d el Giardini
Nuo
L’AN ZO LO
enta
DE
ale
A IN SC PI
CO L’AR
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
IER
E
CASTELLO
DO NA
M AG NO CAL LE
DEL TE DEUM
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI
GRECI
CALLE DEI
OV
delle
E CAPP
FONDAMENTA
CALL
CAL PEL LO O CAP
NU
FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO
UCC INE
LE MUR
CALLE CAVALL I
CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE
AN A
IERA
DE LL A CO RO NA
C.
LEONAR DO
C. COR ONA
CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA
CALLE DE LE RASSE
ALBANESI CALLE DEL
SA NT ’A NT ONI O
CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I
RAM
DE LL E CA O
E
C.
ALL
C
C. DE LA MADONETA
L DO
SE
DE
DEL
L
PA
FR
RA
DIS
UT AR
L VO
IO
L
LT
O
NA VE
CA
LL
C.
E DE
DE
LA
STA GNERI
C. DEI
BA LO TE LE
BR ESS
SALIZADA
I SE M BA
LE
BO E
RI
LL
AP II
CA
A RI CE M ER
LO VO
SE
CALL
CENS
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
CA
HIA RUGA VECC
O
TA
IA
O C. VOLT
A AS
VO HIA
RC
DE
DE ADA SALIZ
CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA
EN
LE ST
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
LARG
DIC
OTT LE RID
LE TRE
CAL
CAL
I SC
A N M
DEGLI
LE CAL
N TI AR M
DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA
LLE
MO GL A DE RIV
SA LO
R I VA
CE
N IO ST BA
CA
Museo Correr
San Zaccaria
ANT ONIN
LL A
AM
L DE
O
Palazzo Ducale
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
TT
zo
LE
OLO
7 2
O
SALIZAD A SAN
DE
ND
E LL CA
SE
AL CAV
OR
RC
I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA
DEL
TA
l Palaz
C.
EN
MA
SAN
ZZA
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
RI BB FA
AM
PIA
ENTA FONDAM
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
DEI
ND
Rio De
LE CAL
FO
Basilica di San Marco
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
C. PIA NTON
LL E
CAL LE
CAL LE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CALLE BOSELLO
IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA
O DIV RE O
ONI CA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE LION
CA
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
CORTE DELLE GATE
IN MAR DE L’OS
VE
SE ST
FO
O DE L’OGI CALLE
E GAT
I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA
LE CAL
MAR
LA CAN LE DE
CORTE DEL MORION
SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A
ASI DR
RI BB I FA DE
GA SAN
CO
1
CAL
I PRET
E NUO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
DE LE
E LL
or
Bacino Orseolo
CALLE DEL FIGHER
LE LAR
E DEI CALL
San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL
ENT A CAS
MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO
DAM
RA
LLE CA
ad
CA AN E BI LL CA
LO EL PP CA
RO VE N SE SA
lv
CAL
NI LO EI BA C.D CORTE TORRETTA
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
LE CAL
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
IO ED M L RE DE
DEL FORNO
O EZ M
FA GIUF
Sa
AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO
CORTE NUOVA
CORTE
E DE LL CA
San Francesco della Vigna
SCO
CORTE NOVA
GA RU
IA ER EL SS CA
n
INA
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
CORTE
FRUTARIOLI
NCE
IZADA SAL
LE DE CAL
San Lorenzo
FRA
CALLE ERIZZO
A SC TA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
Rio San Lorenzo
O
LE SAN
ZON
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
TA EN AM ND FO
L IO
O AT USS M
FON
CAL
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
N
LE CAL
CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
A
LICINI
E DEL CAFE
O
BI
S
CORTE
RUBBI
CALL
LL
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
DE LE BAN
San Giuliano
an Moisè
DE LE TOLE
SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO
CORTE TREVISAN
I OR
A
Sa CA LL E DE
BARB ARIA
DE
D
CORTE
SAL VAD OR
PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
LL E
A
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
3
TE
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
L IZ
CALICE
LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I
E’
DE LE ERBE
CA
LIO
VE
Santa Maria del Pianto
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
NA
CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
ER
SA N
O
FOR
REM
AD A
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
N
AS
O
TA
C
MB
D. PA LLE
C. LARG A
CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE
R io
O
PIO
EN
RE
DE L GO
DE LA FAVA
ST
E
CALL E
CAMPO
C. DEL
OL
LL
G. GA LLI
LE DEL
LI
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
CORTE GRAGOLINA
IOL
EN
ZZO
SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO
C. DE
DE
TEL
AM
IE
GIA
LLE
ARTIN
CAMPO SAN LIO
X
CORTE DEL
AZEN
LE CAS
D
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
LE VEN
CAL
DEL CO O
CA LLE
San Salvador
C.
RD DE
CAL
I
I
N
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
LE
LE
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
C.M
SAN
LA
E
OL
FO
CA LLE
LL CA
AC
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
MA RZA RIA
EL
LL
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
IR
GA
A
CORTE
ST UO
LAR
VENEZIA
VE
D IS
CAL
O RN FO L DE
IM
E
DE
O
SABION
E
DR IO CA LLE LE SC
CA LLE
NO
EN
LL
TE ST A
N
S
MAZ ZINI
AN SALVADOR
DEL
C
ST
S.G. GRISOS TOMO
RIO
CA LLE GA BR IEL
LA
AN
RL
E DE
M
TE
CA LL
ID
EN
BE
CORTE NOVA
CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO
W
LE
E
LE COC
PIO
TEG
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
C ALL E
CA
CAN ZIAN
AM
LL
CA
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O
ND
RI
CAL
SA LIZZ AD A
FON
TE
LL
CAL LE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
S.Canciano
CA
C. DEL
I B O
CA
Casa di Marco Polo
9deiFontego Tedeschi
LE
C
SE
omo to
METO
DE
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
A SAN
A
CA
RIO TER RÀ
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
IO
EG
AR NN
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
TI ET OR EM LL CA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
SAL IZAD
FO
RG
ST EL LA
SAN TI
RAMO
TAR IOL
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
LA
CA LL E
LI
R
APO STO
A FRU
E
CA
CAL
À BA RB
San Giovanni Grisostomo
te alto
LL
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
AZZ O
CA
I CO
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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]
Where Venice Magazine
5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • G6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Execelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 4 STAR A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta De Losmarin) • G5 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3
Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – San Polo, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map
ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online
Terme (Pd) Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro D’abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR AND LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Hotel Garden Terme – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) Hotel La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Tritone Terme – Via A. Volta, 31 – Abano Terme (Pd) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)
AL CA L YOU IN N DO THE CITY
THE
OUT OF TOWN 5 STAR DELUXE (L) AND 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro D’Abano, 1 – Abano
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