Everyone can cruise -Alex’s shared vision
ala-Halong Bay restaurant Celestial generals come alive Perak pips Sarawak
World Heritage Site -4th anniversary celebration
KDN NO PP17492/07/2012 (030254)
West Malaysia RM8 East Malaysia RM10
Pinang Thaipas Enjoy a new al fresco dining experience by the poolside. Our chefs have come up with a new twist to an old tale. “Pinang Thaipas” is an innovative take on the traditional Spanish tapas. Choose from Thai delights and local favourites. This is a great way for light eaters to graze and nibble on a lazy day out in the sun.
For reservations, please call SHANGRI-LA’S RASA SAYANG RESORT AND SPA Batu Feringgi Beach, 11100 Penang, Malaysia. Tel: (04) 888 8788 • Email: rsr@shangri-la.com
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Contents June 2012 + July 2012 2 Editor Speaks
Penang
5 End of an Era: Pung’s Kopitiam
Melaka
6 PARKROYAL Penang Resort
Perak
8 Pearl Palatable : Nasi Kandar
Langkawi
11 A Hidden Gem: Puncak Mutiara Café 12 YB’s Choice: Char Hor Fun 41 A Birding Paradise: Royal Belum State Park 45 Fish Farm Restaurant 47 Healthy Anti-oxidant Therapy: The Frangipani Langkawi 49 Royal Wedding at the Cliff Restaurant 50 A Night with Tropical Charters
11 Nasi Briyani lamb shank @ Puncak Mutiara Cafe 29
51 Everybody Can Cruise
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41
Listing & Essential Info 3 ‘Selamat Datang’ to the Pearl of Orient 4 Fact File Penang 14 Penang’s Tourist Attractions 15 Come Stay with Me… Penang 16 Map of Penang 18 Calendar of Events
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40 Welcome to Perak 42 Perak’s Tourist Attractions 43 Welcome to Magical Langkawi Cover photo: Colonnaded veranda of a pre-war house at Lebuh Muntri- Love Lane junction in the heritage enclave of George Town.
44 Langkawi’s Tourist Attractions 52 Map of Langkawi 53 Come Stay With Me… Langkawi
Plus 21-page supplementary issue: Celebrating 4th year of UNESCO listing as World Heritage Site June + July
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Penang
EDITOR Speaks
T
his commemorative issue is all about UNESCO declarations; the 4th anniversary of George Town and Melaka as World Heritage Site and the 5th anniversary of Langkawi Geopark; and, of course, there’s a lot more interesting tales inside.
We pack bite-size info on what’s heritage and the living treasures that are worth visiting. Learn about dying trades, heritage architecture and how urban renewal brought the end of an era to a small 70-year-old coffee stall. We choose to feature the exquisite timeless ‘heritage’ collections of OE Designs, a jewellery manufacturer, and can’t wait to share with you our offerings of ‘heritage’ food that you should savour, both in George Town and Melaka. Join Nyonya Penang on her eye-opener journey into Baba Nyonya land.
Langkawi Geopark is 550 million years old. It’s a story about unique rock formations and also the biodiversity found within. With a new taxi fare schedule in force, your visit there will be hazzlefree when taking a taxi. About the Royal Belum State Park in Perak, prepare to be surprised with our tale on hornbills. On the food scene, where2 checks out the popular Nasi Kandar stalls in George Town. We provide a list and hopefully those featured meet your discerning taste worthy of our mention here. Our Food Guide YB Choice has an interesting trick to share; how to win over your future in-laws with a packet of Char Hor Fun (Cantonese Fried Noodle). Read on; and since this is the start of the durian season, don’t miss a bite and laugh over our rendition of the fruity myths about this King of Fruit. Hurrah!
Excuse me for writing to you at the spur of the mome nt, after having read your magazine for the first time today. Congratulations are in order for you as I think this is a wonderful and brilliantly produced and edited magazine for the promotion of Pulau Pinang. I have in mind an article on one of Penang’s famou s artists who is presently back in Penang after many years abroad and away from Penang. He is the retired artist Yong Cheng Wah, the son of the iconic pioneer Malaysian artist, the late Yong Mun Sen. If you interested to write an article on him and his works and feature him in your coming issue of Where2, then I shall be glad to be of help to you and to arrange for a meeting and interview with him, as he is a friend of mine whom I admire for his artistic talent.
(Ed: We will publish an article on
artist Yong in our next issue.)
WE ARE HIRING
Sales Executives (Langkawi, Penang, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur & Melaka) Admin Executive (Penang) where2 has an exciting opportunity available for enthusiastic and motivated individuals seeking to develop their sales career. If you are an aggressive and independent selfstarter, this could be your opportunity of your lifetime to join our growing team. You will be rewarded for your pro-active approach with no limits to your earned income that comes with incentive trips.
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Editorial K. Ravin Sales & Marketing: Q Yoong K. Ravin Contributors: Lillian Tong Helen Ong Khoo Boo Lim John Chin Noor Hayati L. Jeremiah Photographers: Q Yoong Steven Ooi Photo Courtesy of: www.visitpenang.gov.my Tourism Malaysia Penang Langkawi Development Authority (LADA) Northern Corridor Implementation Authority Art & Design PR Design Adpix Studio
Dear Editor,
Kind regards. Y.C. Ho 12 April 2012
Editor: K. Y. Pung pungwhere2@gmail.com
We are also looking for an admin executive to be based in Penang. Send your resume and cover letter to pungwhere2@gmail.com As you wait for our call, visit our Facebook page @ where2 magazine to learn more about what we do and how we do it best.
Printer: Eastern Printer (BM) Sdn Bhd (13338-U) Lot 100884, Mk 15, Jalan Rozhan, Alma 14000 Bukit Mertajam, Penang. T: +604 552 2833 F: +604 552 2832 E: info@easternprinters.com W: www.easternprinters.com KDN No: PQ1780/C/50 Publisher: Niche Forte Communications Sdn Bhd 18-31-B, Gurney Tower Persiaran Gurney 10250 Penang T: +604 226 1255 F: +604 226 9255 E: info.where2@gmail.com Connect with Us Online facebook where2 magazine twitter where2mag Disclaimer: All rights reserved. where2 makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be responsible or liable in any way for the contents of the advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations contained in this publication. The opinions and statements of contributions in where2 do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher, Niche Forte Communications Sdn. Bhd. where2 reasonably assumes that all articles are factual and do not plagiarised or intentionally libellous and are not responsible for error and omission. The editorial team reserves the right to edit all materials for publications. Reproduction of material from where2 in any form is strictly prohibited wihout the written permission of the publisher.
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Penang
Selamat
Datang
(Welcome) to Penang, the Pearl of the Orient
G
eorge Town in Penang its celebrating is 4th anniversary as UNESCO World Heritage Site, and there will be lots of events happening from June 15 to July 15.
where2 will join in the grand month-long George Town Festival 2012 celebrations to highlight and showcase the island’s unique diversity of culture and living heritage in this commemorative issue.
Bring along your copy of where2, if you plan to explore the heritage enclave and have a peep into a world where nature, tradition and history blend into a rich cultural tapestry.
Be with us as the festival gets full swing!
Getting There: By Air Penang is one of the hubs for the Indonesia-Malaysia-Thailand growth triangle. It also has air links with major capitals of the region. The Penang International Airport is 16km away from bustling George Town. There is also a bus service from the airport to town and to the touristy Batu Ferringhi beach. By Rail The service connects those travelling from the south to Butterworth, onwards to the border town of Padang Besar and Bangkok, Thailand. Train Tickets are also available at the ticketing station next to the Pengkalan Tun Uda ferry terminal on the island.
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Transportation
Penang Hill Train Penang Hill Railway operates from 6.30 am to 10 pm (11pm on weekends, public & school holidays) and costs RM8.00 for local adults and RM4.00 for local children and senior citizens (RM30 and RM15 for foreigners respectively)
By Sea You can get to the island from the mainland Seberang Prai by the colourful ferries, which cater for both passengers and vehicle. One way charges are levied and collected at the Sultan Abdul Halim terminal in Butterworth.
Trishaw Once known as the “King of the Road”, hop onto one of them to enjoy a slow ride through the busy town anytime of the day, just make sure you agree on the fare before jumping in.
There are regular boat services between Penang-Medan and Penang-Langkawi. The Swettenham Port caters to International and regional cruise liners.
Taxis Ensure the meter is switched on or agree on the fare before you board the taxi.
By the way, Penang has been named as Malaysia’s most livable city for the second year in a row by global consulting firm ECA International, and the 8th most livable city in Asia.
By Bridge The opening of the Penang Bridge in 1985 has made the island more accessible. The journey by car across the bridge now takes less than 13 minutes.
Buses The Hop-on-free Central Area Transit (CAT) takes visitors around the George Town city for free. The service is available every 15 minutes from 6am until midnight. It plies between Pengkalan Weld at the harbour area and Komtar, making 19 stops within the heritage enclave. Check out the rapidPENANG Bus Routes Guide at w w w.rapidpg.com. my/journey-planner/ route-maps.
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Penang
Fact File
Foreign Consulate
(YOU MUST HAVE)
Check out attractions within the GEORGE TOWN UNESCO HERITAGE ENCLAVE. Best surveyed on foot or by trishaw, it will take about two hours to complete this historic trail which takes you to the oldest civic buildings and religious institutions in the region.
The Trails Goddess of Mercy Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling • Mahamariamman Temple Lebuh Queen • Little India Lebuh Pasar • Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Lebuh Leith • Kapitan Keling Mosque Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling • Teochew Temple Lebuh Chulia • Yap Kongsi Lebuh Armenian • Pinang Peranakan Mansion Lebuh Gereja • Dr. Sun Yat-Sen’s Penang Base Lebuh Armenian • Islamic Museum ( Syed Alatas Mansion) Lebuh Armenian • St George’s Church Lebuh Farquhar • Seh Tek Tong Cheah Kongsi Lebuh Armenian • Malay Mosque Lebuh Acheh • Khoo Kongsi Medan Cannon • Fort Cornwallis Lebuh Light • State Legislative Assembly House Lebuh Light • City Hall Jalan Padang Kota Lama • Penang State Museum & Art Gallery Lebuh Farquhar •
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Australia Britain Canada France Germany India Indonesia Japan Thailand
04 263 3320 04 227 5336 04 227 5336 04 262 2944 04 647 1288 04 250 5000 04 226 7412 04 226 3030 04 226 8029
Emergencies 999 Emergency 112 Emergency (when using mobile phone) 100 Operator Service 101 Operator Assisted Calls 103 Directory Enquiries 04 269 1999 Penang Police 04 899 3222 Penang Tourist Police
Hospital (Island) Penang Hospital Penang Adventist Hospital Gleneagles Medical Centre Island Hospital Lam Wah Ee Hospital Loh Guan Lye
04 222 5333 04 222 7200 04 227 6111 04 228 8222 04 657 1888 04 238 8888
Hospital (Mainland) Hospital Bukit Mertajam Hopital Seberang Jaya
04 538 3333 04 382 7333
Airlines Penang International Airport Malaysia Airline Air Asia Cathay Pacific Airways China Airlines China Southeren Airlines Thai Airways Fire Fly
04 643 4411 1300 88 3000 03 2171 9333 04 226 0411 04 228 6227 04 227 8177 04 226 6000 04 630 6665
Taxi
Tourism Enquiries Tourism Malaysia, 11, Lebuh Pantai 04 261 0058 Tourism Malaysia, Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah 04 262 0066 Penang Global Tourism 04 634 0285
CT Radio Taxi Services (George Town) 04 229 9467 Maju Jaya Transportation 04 226 6690 Cooperative (Butterworth) 04 323 2045 Penang Taxi Driver’s Association (George Town) 04 262 5721 Taxi Driver’s Cooperative (Bayan Baru) 04 642 5961
Train Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTMB) -Butterworth 04 331 2796 -Pengkalan Weld Jetty 04 261 0290
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Penang
End of an Era for 70-year-old Kopitiam This non-descript stall off Lebuh Chulia at the lane beside Penang’s oldest Hong Kong Bar will be torn down in the not too distant future. It has to go now that the run-down Nam Wah motel, next to it, has been acquired by a Singaporean businessman bent on turning the premises into a tourist boutique hotel and tourist information centre.
T
he last cup of coffee and kaya & butter toast, done the traditional way, will soon be served at the Pung’s kopitiam which has operated from the same spot 70 years ago.
This impending closure signals yet another disappearing of a facet of life of Penang’s old world charm. The kopitiam was started by the late Pung Chen Juan and a close village friend Chew Keng Ho who came from the same village in Hainan Island, China, seeking a better future. It started off on a push cart. Later,
Words by K. Ravin
the business carried on under a zincroofed structure in the narrow lane, locals called “Lao Fu Zai Hong”.
Penang’s past. “If we have to close down, we will just have to move on, that’s life,” says Kim Suan.
Coffee brewed and served there has not changed ever since. Using the finest local grounded coffee beans, they are brewed with hot water from a boiling cauldron, sieved through a cloth bag a few times before being poured into individual porcelain cups; ensuring that the coffee maintains a strong rich taste.
The Pung family members who tend to the stall chattered cheerfully, jesting with customers, many of whom are regulars. They merrily traded life experiences, talked shop and politics as customers from various tables chirped in, offering their views. ‘Wah Chai’ in his 70s explains why he comes here day after day. “I have been coming here since I was 5 years old, it’s like home and they are my family”.
Countless customers would insist on “kao kao” (thick and strong coffee) for the extra oomph. The kaya & butter toast is the perfect pick me up, consisting of crispy cubes of toasted bread garnished with a light layer of butter and sweet kaya (coconut jam). “We use the same traditional brewing method passed down to me by my father” explains Kim Suan while he serves me the quintessential ‘kopitiam set’, a fresh cup of coffee with a side serving of kaya & butter toast. With renovation nearing completion, the new proprietor has spoken up and it’s a matter of time that the stall will see the end of an era, its existence relegated to the pages of
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So the next time you’re in Lebuh Chulia, spare a few minutes and stop by for some coffee at Pung’s Kopitiam, your neighbourhood stall, before it’s too late and all’s gone.
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Penang
Heritage Touch to your Parkroyal Family Retreat
A
Malay heritage and wisdom that is still much alive is embodied in the urut bersalin or postdelivery massage prescribed for mothers. Even the nonMalays are getting into this restorative treatment to help them recover from the painful labour of childbirth.
Indulge in an urut bersalin adapted for everyone at St Gregory world luxury spa at Parkroyal Penang Resort, and soothe away pains of your daily labour. It is a two-hour pampering in three phases:
1 Whole body fragrant oil massage 2 Bertungku or hot stone massage, and
3 Berbengkung or warm herbal wrap.
Add a delicious, healthy Malaysian meal featuring ulam-ulam (raw greens), herbal chicken soup and other aromatic spicy concoctions to perfectly finish the experience. More fun when you do it with family and loved ones. Winner of awards, St Gregory is famous for its indulgent spa treatments, including for kids as Parkroyal is a proud family resort. For the little VIPs, the choices comprise relaxing milk/flower bath, hydrating and nourishing banana smoothie/chocolate body mask and colourful manicure/pedicure with vibrant nail designs.
Bertungku – the hot stone is wrapped in batik.
Bengkung – a mixture of four herbs is applied before the wrap.
The fun list goes on: •‘Kids Only’ station at Tamarind Brasserie plus supply of paper n crayons during breakfast •Balloon tied to in-room dining trolley •Birthday surprise •Kid’s bedding + hidden teddy gift Parkroyal makes possible a truly relaxing family retreat, yet fun for the children!
Stunning sea view while you enjoy the massage.
PARKROYAL Penang Resort Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04-881 1113
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A Quick Peek at the Peak!
P
enang Hill is a popular cool attraction for many years, and thanks to recent developments, visiting this hill retreat has never been more accessible. In 1788, Captain Francis Light first plotted a horse carriage track up Penang Hill. These days the new airconditioned, high speed funicular train carriages make accessing the peak a breeze. The ride up takes about five minutes to reach the top at 823 meters above sea level. Those interested to hike can follow several trekking trails at the foothill from either the popular Moongate trail or the tarred road known as the jeep track. The hill top has a cooler temperature of between 20 and 25 Celsius. Nature lovers will love to stroll around its Dipterocarp forest that houses rare species like Exorhopalia Ruficeps and Hazel Maingaya Malayana.
While there, enjoy English afternoon tea at David Brown’s Restaurant & Tea Terraces or at Hotel Bellevue which commands the vintage point for a panoramic view of George Town below. There are also several government owned bungalows and mansions available for rent, ideal for family getaways and trips, whilst the abandoned Craig Hotel is now currently being renovated and restored to its former glory. Don’t miss the canopy suspension rope walk, the recently constructed Monkey Cup Garden and the Owl Musuem, arguably the first ever arts and craft museum dedicated to owls! To whet your appetite, check out Cliff Café, a new three-storey steel and timber building that houses a food court as well as numerous souvenir shops.
With so much to offer, make sure you visit Penang Hill and experience its many nature’s delights!
Come on Home to Grill House! Roadhouse Grill has relocated to bigger premises at Hillside Tanjung
Bungah and rebranded as Grill House. The same cowboy deco is still there in a more spacious indoor bar and dining area. The garden terrace outside is perfect for watching EPL matches and to chill out. It’s truly a place where you can ‘Eat, Drink and Be Yourself, Grill House Style’.
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Penang
Pearl Palatable
Nasi Kandar “Penang water is different and tastes better,” Proprietor Salem
Where they used to be limited to the number of dishes they could carry around, there are now no bounds; some can offer as many as 40-50 different types of curries, sambals, gulais and briyanis, also include some less spicy dishes. The only limitation is the size of your stomach, and how deep your pocket is!
I
ndian Muslim (Mamak vendors used to walk around with rice and curries balanced in tiered baskets on either end of a long pole (kandar) laid across their shoulders, shouting out their wares – hence the name. When beckoned by a hungry patron, they would stop, lower the pole and lay out the tiers so that he could see and select what was on offer, and tuck into it by the roadside.
Words by Helen Ong
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These itinerant vendors have now gone upmarket, so to speak; instead of going out to tout for business, customers come to them. Nasi kandar outlets abound all over Malaysia and particularly in Penang, where it is available at practically every street corner. It’s almost as ubiquitous as, if not more so, than our famed hawker food. Indeed, it used to be hawker food. Some places date back a hundred years or more, run by descendants of the original peddlar.
What makes Penang Nasi Kandar particularly good, according to Saleem, proprietor of one of Penang’s larger outlets the
Restoran
Kassim
Mustafa
in Lebuh Chulia, is the water. “Penang water is different and tastes better,” he claims. His signature dishes include Ayam Negro, deep-fried chicken quarters braised in dark soya sauce and onions, served with their special ghee rice.
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Penang Dawood Restoran has been going since 1936, started by the late Sheik Dawood from South India to cater to the needs of nearby shipyard workers. Today, the little café is run by his eldest son Syed Aliar, who continues to specialise in many of their original dishes like the popular Itek Sammah, duck cooked in a thick, spicy curry. In Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling is the famous Nasi Beratur stall, where the queue sometimes snakes back so long it can take up to an hour to get served. One of the most famous is Line in a narrow lane off Jalan Penang, which has been going for nearly half a century, so popular that hungry patrons are prepared to wait despite the long queue. There are different explanations for the unusual name; one is that it came about because workers who were bringing in large vats of hot curries would shout out, “Keep the line clear!” Alternatively, I have been told that it was to indicate that diners had paid and therefore their table could be cleared.
Clear
The Hameediyah Restaurant in Lebuh Campbell must be one of the oldest in town. Established by Abdul Kadir in 1907, it is now run by Ahmad Senni and his siblings, the sixth generation of the family to do so. Try their famous murtabak, fragrant squares of thin dough generously filled with spiced minced mutton, beef or chicken.
The 24-hour Kapitan Restoran, also along Lebuh Chulia, is well-known for its Claypot Briyani, pieces of chicken baked on top of fragrant spiced rice. According to proprietor Abbdhul Wahab, the dish was developed by his grandfather, a chef who used to cook for the then Sultan of Kedah.
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Penang
Penang Heritage Charms
Gourmet Paradise In Mainland Penang -Fine Dine in Casual Mode-
Penang Heritage Charm Bracelet in sterling silver 925. RM1,199
Dine, feast and enjoy yourself like it’s the 60’s all over again, in this Beatlemania inspired F&B outlet in Seberang Jaya. Serving up fine dining cuisine amidst a casual setting, Abbey Road Bistro & Restaurant also feature sporadic live music performances and monthly food & wine pairing dinner functions. For great food and even greater times, make sure you check out Abbey Road Bistro & Restaurant and let the good times roll.
Abbey Road Bistro Restaurant 6GF Lebuh Tenggiri 2, 13700 Seberang Jaya, Pusat Bandar Sunway Penang 604 390 6655
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Penang
A Hidden Gem! S
tretched out over six acres, Puncak Mutiara Café in Kubang Semang, Bukit Mertajam, is a real hidden gem. It started as a goat farm, and today it has expanded to become well known for its sumptuous Malay cuisine as well as its appealing rustic ambiance. Located in the midst of Kampung Pelet, it offers patrons the choice of dining in either inside the air conditioned two-storey Krystal Lounge or the more popular array of ‘atap nipah’ huts that fill the area. Equipped to cater to 1,000 diners, it has become the venue of choice for many corporate and private functions.
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Uniquely enough, Puncak Mutiara Café still pays homage to its roots and features a commercially active animal and fish farm that has proven to be a popular attraction amongst guests. Housing livestock, ostriches, rabbits and nearly 500 goats of varying breeds, the owners plan to expand operations to include a deer enclave in the near future. Whilst there is plenty to see at Puncak Mutiara Café, its food remains its biggest draw. Serving up local Malay and western dishes, house specialities include, the sizzling plate Kambing (Lamb) Grill, Satay Set Special (six different skewered meats grilled over a charcoal flame and served with spicy sauce) as well as its East meets West version of Chicken Chop.
Words by K. Ravin
Its favourite is Nasi Briyani Paha Kambing. A tender succulent portion of grilled lamb shank served with a bed of flavoured rice, ‘dalcha’ (lentils) gravy and air asam. We highly recommend, downing a glass of fresh goats milk along with it! With plans to build home-stay accommodation, Puncak Mutiara Café is certainly not resting on its laurel. The coming month will also see them hosting their annual daily Ramadan dinner buffet, offering visitors a wide selection of choices. Whilst it may be a tad hard to find the cafe, its delectable cuisine and dining environment make it well worth the effort.
Puncak Mutiara Café Lot 179, MK 3, Kampung Pelet, Kampung Pelet, Kubang Semang 04 522 8502 GPS: N5.415025 E. 100.456377
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Penang
“Win over your future in-laws with Char Hor Fun”
Y.B. (Your Best)
Chew Kee @ Lebuh Carnavon The Fish Bee Hoon soup is good (Dinner only)
Words By BL Khoo I asked around and some older folks told me that it was basically the same varieties we have today although there have been slight changes to the garnishing or toppings used on the food.
I
‘m sure we are all too familiar with Penang being recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site but I had to scratch my head when someone asked me if there is such a thing as Penang heritage hawker food.
So reminiscing my good old days, I decided to pick Penang Char Hor Fun as my favorite “heritage” food only because I have had a lot of fond memories about it as a child. The Penang Char Hor Fun is ‘koay teow’ (flat noodle) and vermicelli (bee hoon) stir-fried in high heat to get the smoky (wok hei) smell and taste to it. The gravy over the noodles is from bone stock added with corn starch to give it a slightly thick glossy finish. The gravy has sliced pork, prawns, char siew (barbecued pork), vegetable (choy sum) in it. Traditionally, the gravy has pig liver, intestines, stomach and even some slices of “haruan” fish. Adding in an egg will make it more flavorful and locals will then call it “Wat Than Hor” rather than Char Hor Fun. As a young child, my father would buy or take us out to eat Char Hor Fun on special occasions only. So, somehow I grew up to accept this
Seven Myths about durians, the King of Fruits
food as a luxury. In fact, there is a saying among the older generations that to win over the hearts of one’s future parent-in-laws, the trick would be to “ta pau” (pack) the best Char Hor Fun for them when taking home their daughter after a date. From the 1970s till the early 1980s, the best place for Char Hor Fun was none other than Foo Heong Restaurant in Lebuh Cintra. I’m sure many Penangites would agree that to get the best out of their Char Hor Fun it was actually to buy it and take back! The Char Hor Fun was wrapped with banana leaf. What made it so awesome was the tantalizing fragrance you get when opening the packet to eat. The thought of it still makes me drool. Foo Heong is still operating but with the old “sifus” (chefs) gone, the taste is not what it used to be. So what are my choices now? There are many decent stalls around in Penang selling this favorite. They are: Seafood stall at Lai Seng Coffee shop @ Jalan Kampung Malabar (Lunch & Dinner)
Char Hor Fun stall @ the hardware bazaar in Lebuh Chulia (Dinner) Stall at New Cathay Coffee shop (*Pork Free) @ Pulau Tikus (Breakfast & Lunch) Hoe Kee @ Lebuh Cintra The Fish Bee Hoon soup is good. (Lunch & Dinner)
Stall at Cathay Coffee shop @ Jalan Burma (Lunch) Stall at Bee Hooi Coffee shop @ Lebuh Kimberley (Dinner)
Myth 3: Durians have eyes and they will not fall on your head The fruits normally fall at night but some may drop after a storm.
Myth 4: Durians have aphrodisiac qualities.
Some people believe that eating the durian can enhance your sex drive. The Indonesians have this saying: “durian jatuh, sarong naik” (the durian falls and the sarong comes up) which seems to support this belief.
Myth 5: You can get rid of the smell by drinking water from the shell
It is not documented. Some believe that if you add a bit of salt to the water in the shell, it will reduce the ‘heatiness’ which comes after consuming the fruit.
Myth 1: Durians are loaded with cholesterol
It is cholesterol free and contains no saturated fat, very low in sodium, no sugar, is high in dietary fibre, high in thiamin (vitamin B1), high in vitamin B6 and very high in vitamin C
Myth 6: To counter the ‘heatiness’, eat mangosteens
Myth 2: Mixing durian and alcohol is lethal
Myth 7: You can tell a good durian by its thorns and shape
There is no scientific evidence to prove that the combination of the two is lethal.
A popular belief among the Chinese is eating mangosteens (the Queen of Fruits) has a ‘cooling’ effect to treat heatiness.
Irregular shaped durians are preferred to those that are round. Some choose durians with short, firm and sharp thorns. (source: extracts from http://www.sgwayoflife.com)
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Penang
The Ritchie Blackmore of Penang
L
PARKROYAL Penang Resort Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04-881 1113 www.parkroyalhotels.com
ead guitarist Abu Bakar Tajuddin, who is affectionately known as Kon, is dubbed the Ritchie Blackmore of Penang for good reasons.
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He has never tired of playing the song “Smoke on the Water” that gained worldwide popularity for the British band Deep Purple.
Kon is one of many seasoned professional guitarists still plying their trade in Penang. His penchant is for bluesy neo classical guitar leads. You can catch him with the 3-piece outfit, The Melody Makers, around dinner time at PARKROYAL Penang Resort. Already a crowd favourite for their brand of loose, Latin, flamenco styled mix of golden oldies and contemporary favourites; Kon injects the numbers with flashy licks and riffs picked up from years of experience.
“I picked up playing guitar in secondary school. I was inspired by people and bands like Ritchie Blackmore from Deep Purple and Uriah Heep,” explains Kon. In his heyday, he was the Fender Stratocaster swinging part of Penang-based hard rock band ‘The Clusters’. He fondly recounts his hard rocking days as part of the burgeoning 70s and 80s Penang rock scene. Even after all these years, Kon admits his enthusiasm for music has never diminished. “I am still as passionate as ever, music is something you never stop loving”.
Rasa Sayang
resonates with the sounds of Gamelan
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t Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, the sweet sounds of Gamelan resonate within the posh interiors. Guests can enjoy live Gamelan performances, courtesy of Kurnia Klasik Enterprises, at the resort’s garden wing lobby every Wednesday and Friday evening from 6.30pm to 7.30pm.
Shangri–La Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04 -888 8888 www.shangri-la.com/penang/ rasasayangresort
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“We decided to introduce gamelan music so that the ambience in the Garden Wing lobby will resonate with live music. The soothing sounds of the gamelan will remind guests that they are within the gracious, courtly surroundings of a fivestar Shangri-La resort in Malaysia,” explains Suleiman Tunku Abdul Rahman, the resort’s director of communications. The Gamelan is a living remnant of the practices of the Melaka Sultanate and consists of instruments such as the gong, xylophone, metallophones
and ‘gendang’ (drums). Once considered the foremost orchestral style entertainment in the country it was traditionally utilised in royal courts and official functions. Unfortunately, its relevance and popularity has waned in recent decades. The decision by Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa Penang to introduce Gamelan was part of its dedication to promoting Malaysian culture and history.
The latest addition to the resort’s in-house musical repertoire will hopefully re-introduce the art form to a newer generation of Malaysians as well as international audiences. There are also further plans to introduce traditional classical Chinese and Indian musical ensembles as part of a conscious move to promote Malaysia’s diverse cultural background.
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Penang Butterfly Farm Jalan Teluk Bahang, 11050 Penang 04 -885 1253
Penang Hill Jalan Bukit Bendera, 11500 Penang 04 828 8880
A live museum with amongst the most gorgeous collection of rare butterflies in the region, it’s a must visit for nature lovers
Standing at 812 metres above sea level, it’s a popular destination due to its cool climate and breath taking views. (Check out our feature on it in pg 7)
Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi 18 Medan Cannon, 10200 Penang 04 261 4609
Fort Cornwallis Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah, 10200 Penang 04 264 3494
An iconic relic of Penang’s history, those intrigued by our colonial past will find plenty to marvel at here.
Kapitan Kelling Mosque Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, 10200 Penang
Located at the heart of the Unesco Heritage Enclave, it’s noted for its Indian Muslim style of architecture and distinctive minaret.
Features amongst the most stunning example of Chinese architectural designs anywhere in the region. (Check out our feature on it in pg 31)
There are more than 300 different bird species on view to keep you entertained for hours!
List of Penang Tourism Atrractions
As one of the oldest Hindu temples in Penang, visitors are welcome to join in and partake in authentic Hindu religious practices.
Part of Penang’s living heritage, the 5 clan jetties offer visitors a glimpse into the islands history as a maritime port.
Known as the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia, this internationally acclaimed attraction is a real treat to visit when it’s all lighted up!
Tropical Spice Garden Lone Crag Villa, Lot 595 Mukim, Jalan Teluk Bahang, 11100 Penang 04 881 1797
Home to over 500 species of tropical spices, herbs and ornamental plants! It also features the Tree Monkey Restaurant which offers great dining with the finest Sea View around.
June + July
Sri Mahamariamman Temple Lebuh Queen, 10200 Penang
Pengkalan Weld Clan Jetties Pengkalan Weld, 10200 Penang
Kek Lok Si Temple 1, Kek Lok Si, 11500 Penang
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Penang Bird Park Jalan Todak, Seberang Jaya, 13700 Perai, Penang 04 399 1899
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Penang
Shangri–La Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04 -888 8888
www.shangri-la.com/en/property/penang/rasasayangresort
Evergreen Laurel Hotel 53, Persiaran Gurney, 10250 Penang 04- 226 9988 www.evergreenhotel.net
Golden Sands Resort Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04- 886 1911
www.shangri-la.com/en/property/penang/goldensandsresort
Hard Rock Hotel Penang Batu Ferringhi Beach, 11100 Penang 04- 881 1711 www.penang.hardrockhotels.net
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COME STAY WITH ME
PARKROYAL Penang Resort Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04-881 1113 www.parkroyalhotels.com
Holiday Inn Resort 72, Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04- 881 1601 www.holidayinnpenang.com
Hotel Royal Penang 3,Jalan Larut 10050 Penang 04- 226 7888 www.hotelroyalpenang.com
Lone Pine Hotel Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04- 886 8686 www.lonepinehotel.com
Hydro Hotel Penang Miami Beach, Jalan Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Penang 04- 890 5999 www.hydrohotelpenang.com
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Penang
SEA
SEA
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June + July
Batu Ferringhi & Gurney Drive
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Penang
SHOP - IN d’ Park
F & B Outlets Secret Resipe Nasi Kandar Pelita Shelaiton Restaurant Mc Donald Isshin Japanese Restaurant Double Good Restaurant Coffee Bean Haagen-Dazs Boston Golden Triangle Restaurant Sakae Sushi & Teppanyaki Swensen’s Café Toa Authentic Asian Cuisine Starbucks Coffee Ice Ice Baby Nando’s MFM Restaurant Old Town White Cofee Pizza Hut 23 Takehana Seoul Garden Jiu Jiu Sze Chuan Resturant Sushi King Winter Warmers Subway KFC Tak Krai Café Tutti Fruti Xian Ding Wei Entertainment Outlets: Highwaystar Party World Fuel BED Soho Country House Citi-Box Karaoke Room
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June + July
04 502 4363 04 507 7352 04 502 2287 04 508 0510 04 501 3888 04 501 4188 04 508 0252 04 508 4220 04 508 4296 04 502 1969 04 508 0268 04 502 2850 04 501 7826 04 502 1879 04 507 4001 04 508 6555 04 501 8688 04 507 3561 04 501 4888 04 501 9339 04 501 3899 04 507 1295 04 507 7848 04 508 1711 04 502 1709 04 501 1192 04 501 7373 04 501 6222 04 502 2003 04 502 3835 04 507 0725 04 507 0079 04 508 4003 04 502 3835
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Penang
Penang 3rd June - 10th June
Penang Floral Festival 2012 Venue: Penang Botanical Gardens ( free entrance)
Perak
Langkawi
8th June - 10th June
1st June
Gua Tempurung International Adventure Challenge 2012
where2 recommends! Featuring a myriad of local and international flowers, and must-see event for nature lovers!
23th June
Langkawi Geopark Carnival Venue: Dataran Lang where2 recommends! Loads of fun activities and games await you and your family at this event commemorating the one of a kind Langkawi Geopark!
Penang Relay for Life 2012 2nd June
Venue: Youth Park, George Town where2 recommends! This annual charity event for the whole family aims to raise funds and awareness for the on-going battle against cancer
Handicraft & Heritage Week
Venue: Gua Tempurung
30th June
Penang Dragon Boat Festival 2012
Venue: Teluk Bahang Dam where2 recommends! Swing by this international competition to find out why many dub dragon boat racing as the fastest growing water sport in the world!
Calendar of Events
Venue: Langkawi Craft Complex Swing by to browse or even buy some uniquely Malaysian handicrafts at great prices!
2nd June
Art Festival @ Langkawi 2012 Develop your artistic palates with this educational showcase of both local and international artists.
1st June
Lee Wushu Arts Venue: PenangPac, Straits Quay
21st July June
7th July
George Town World Heritage City Day
17th June
Langkawi Bazaar Ramadhan
Ipoh Star Walk
Find out more about the exciting month long events held in conjunction with the celebrations in our heritage supplement!
From June onwards:
Durian Season begins in Penang! Its durian galore! Dubbed the King of Fruits , this is your opportunity to taste the various different types of durians available in Penang at reasonable prices. where2 recommends! Drive by Balik Pulau to find the best road side vendors of durians! Remember to haggle to get the best deals!
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June + July
Venue: Stadium Indera Mulia A fun filled walk around Ipoh has garnered much popularity over the years.
Marking the beginning of the Islamic holy month of ‘Ramadhan’, the Langkawi Bazaar ‘Ramadhan’ offers visitors the chance to sample local delicacies like ‘Pulut Udang’, ‘Satay’ and Laksa!
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Penang
Supplement
Celebrating 4th year of UNESCO listing as World Heritage Site George Town and Melaka secured inscription as World Heritage Site four years ago on July 7, 2008. To mark this auspicious 4th anniversary occasion, where2 re-visits the living heritage of these two historical cities in this commemorative issue. We take you up close and personal to appreciate what living heritage is all about; the multi-ethnic city dwellers still practising the same cultural traditions as they used to several hundred years ago, artisans of dying trades who make lanterns, dough figurines, rattan chairs; and, to savour delicacies such as Nyonya Kuih and Devil’s Curry Chicken. where2 also checks out the vibrant night life; cafes and galleries in newly-restored pre-war houses that turned the
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June + July
quiet nooks and corners into busy back-lanes, and points out different traditional buildings that imbue striking characters to the two cities. Fondly called “the Pearl of the Orient�, George Town beacons visitors to enjoy its old world Colonial charm though on the way in urban renewal, something gets edged out; while Melaka entices with its historical city hype; as the seat of a Malay Sultanate and in later years important trading port between the East and West. Check this issue for our selection of choice places where to live, play, dine, shop; as we join all and sundry to enjoy the festivities that both cities have lined up during the month-long celebrations.
Penang
Contents
Living Heritage Treasures
21
Dough Figurines Joss stick maker Signage carver
22
Songkok maker The Ottu kedai Rattan weaver
21 22
23
29
31
33
34
37 35
23 24
Red bun Coconut ‘Apom’ Indian Goldsmith Nyonya kuih Tomb stone engraver Paper doll effigy Heritage shophouse styles
25
Hotel Penaga, a boutique heritage hotel
26
George Town Festival events
27
Jaime Yeoh & Tan Yeow Wooi Editor’s Pick
28
Listing of Heritage Hotels
29
Pinang Peranakan Mansion
31
Khoo Kongsi
33
Nyonya’s Journal
34
Portuguese Food Sate Celup
35
Chicken Rice Balls Hainanese Satay Durian Cendol
36
Melaka Calender of Events
37
Listing of Melaka Tourism Attractions
38 & 39 Melaka map
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June + July
2
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Penang
Dough figurines Bright, bold and colourful, dough figurines are a delight to behold for both adults and kids alike. Self-taught Khor Ewe Hock, 67, makes these miniature masterpieces with deft hands since he was 13. Using multi coloured dough and array of basic tools, he carves out these intricate figurines whose characters take after idols of Chinese legends. Of course, for a measure of modernity, he designs children’s favourites such as ‘Angry Birds’ and ‘Ninja Turtles’. Look for him at one of his many exhibitions held around Penang.
Joss stick maker Artisan Lee Beng Chuan hand-makes joss sticks from his home here at Lorong Stewart. Now 84 years old, he is the only supplier of handmade joss sticks remaining in Penang. He learnt the trade by observing temple monks doing it and has received acclaim for his bold dragon designs. Even now, he can make over 200-300 individually unique joss sticks a day. His skills have been the subject of a Discovery Channel documentary.
Signage carver Artisan Kok Ah Wah is the last surviving handmade signage carver in Penang. He is recognised as a master craftsman and conferred with the Living Heritage Treasure of Penang 2006 Award by Penang Heritage Trust.
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Using about half a dozen tools and a steady pair of hands, he turns softwood board into a large black plaque within three weeks in his workshop at Lebuh Queen. These plaques are usually placed above main door entrances and are an important symbol of identity for the Chinese community. His attention to detail and exquisite skill attracted many customers from all over the globe.
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Penang
Songkok maker The songkok is a traditional cap made of materials such as felt, cotton and velvet in the shape of a truncated cone that is commonly worn by Muslim men. Opened in the 1930’s ‘Kedai Songkok OSM Mohd Shariff’ along Lebuh King is one of many engaged in the trade. Haja Mohideen who learned from his father takes about two hours to complete a songkok. Today, he is the last remaining maker of handmade songkoks in Penang.
The Ottu kedai Roughly translated, Ottu Kedai means ‘stuck-on kiosk’. These sundry stalls are a common sight in Penang’s Little India enclave. They peddle different trade. Ali Khan’s Ottu Kedai is certainly unique as a betel nut maker. The traditional betel quid consists of betel leafs, areca nuts and slaked lime. Chewing the quid produces a mild psychoactive euphoric sensation. Through trial and error over the years, Ali has created a potent combination of over 20 ingredients to produce a unique burst of flavours. Chewers beware, it’s addictive and constant intake is harmful to one’s health.
Rattan weaver Penang-born Sim Buck Teik is one of the finest rattan weavers on the island. He was the 2008 recipient of the Living Heritage Treasure of Penang award. He learned the trade from his grandfather during his trips to China as a young man and started making large rattan baskets. His hand movement is fast as he bends and moulds long strips of rattan into large patterns. His children are helping him in their shop in Lebuh Pantai.
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Penang
Red Bun
Coconut ‘Apom’
Also called ‘Miku’, which means ‘festive pau/bun’, it is often used as a symbol of blessing during Chinese festive celebrations. Cheong Kim Chuan, at Lorong Selamat, first begun baking these savoury and sweet, steam oven buns back in 1937 and still produces them using the same recipes.
A common Indian breakfast dish, the ‘apom’ is a rice pancake that resembles a crepe. Born and bred in Penang, Aishah Binti Madid’s coconut ‘apom’ has been a popular breakfast haunt for many years. Using recipes passed down by her parents, Aishah sells both plain and egg apoms that are crispy on the outside but soft inside.
Indian goldsmith Known as ‘pathers’ in India, M. Raju of Thana’s Goldsmith shop at Lebuh Queen is flourishing with high demand for fine custom-made jewellery. The traditional methods and tools used are passed down for generations. Bent over a burning flame, his skilled hands craft out stunning jewellery.
Tombstone engraver Yeoh Gim Huat remains the last tombstone engraver in Penang. His shop is in Lebuh Acheen (locals has nicknamed this stone workers’ street ‘Pak Cheok Kak’ in Hokkein). A fourth generation engraver, his shop, Gim Chuan Hin, has been around for over 80 years.
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Nyonya kuih Moh Teng Pheow shop at off Lebuh Chulia makes authentic Nyonya delights such as Sri Muka, Kuih Talam and Purple Bengkang for countless satisfied customers over 70 years. These days, he caters mostly for functions and events. Mook Hian Beng took over the family business since 1979.
Paper doll effigy Loh Soo Ban shop, located off Lebuh Carnarvon, has been one of the main producers of paper dolls effigy in Penang for the last 70 years. They specialise in life-like male and female figures, paper houses, cars, motorcycles and even boat. These effigies are burned as offerings to the dead.
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Penang
Heritage Shophouse Styles
Here’s a quick guide to identifying the various different architectural styles of Heritage Shophouses!
1790s.... “Early Penang” Style 1790s-1850s
Physical Appearance • 1-2 storeys (low) • Simple façade
1840s.... “Southern Chinese” Electric Style 1840s-1900s
Physical Appearance
• European and Indian influence:
• European influence: full-length
Traditional Building Materials Timber, clay bricks, lime, granite, U/V-shaped terracotta roof tiles, terracotta floor tiles
Physical Appearance • 2-3 storeys • From simple to decorative façade • Chinese influence: carved timber door,
air vents, gable end, air-well etc. • European influence: full-length windows, projecting columns, arches, brackets plaster relief, geometricpatterned floor tiles and embossed tiles below windows Traditional Building Materials Introduction of glass fanlights above window, encaustic floor tiles & majolica ceramic wall tiles
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Physical Appearance • 2-3 storeys • From simple to decorative façade • Chinese influence: carved timber door,
louvered shutters and U/V-shaped terracotta roof tiles
“Late Straits” Electric Style 1910s-1930s
“Early Straits” Electric Style 1890s-1910s
• 2-3 storeys • From simple to decorative façade • Chinese influence: carved timber door,
air vents, gable end, air-well etc.
1910s....
1890s....
1930s....
Art Deco Style 1930s-1960s
Physical Appearance • 2-3 storeys • European influence: Art-Deco façade
with geometric design highlighting vertical and horizontal lines • Shanghai plaster wall finishing • Flagpole and relief writing on the wall
air vents, gable end, air-well etc.
windows, geometric patterned floor tiles
Traditional Building Materials Introduction of encaustic floor tiles
1950s....
Early Modern Style 1950s-1970s
Physical Appearance • 2-3 storeys • Simplification of form and design based
on availability of new building materials and structure driven by technological and engineering developments • Sunshade fins, metal-framed glass windows
Traditional Building Materials Introduction of Merseille terracotta roof tiles, reinforced concrete, metal and glass
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Penang
A Unique Art Hotel of Penang
W
alking the five-foot way of Hotel Penaga along Jalan Hutton, your path is blocked by a bunch of shiny, yellow, plastic buckets hanging from the ceiling. Interesting. The hotel’s other side has a wall mural of banana trees and a tiger that greets visitors and passers-by. These are creations by artists-inresidence using Hotel Penaga’s artist studio.
Penaga Hotel Corner of Jalan Hutton & Lebuh Clarke, 10050 Georgetown, 04 261 1891
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“Beyond the Pail” with inscription on the side
a g a n e P l Hote June + July
Wall mural by Indonesian Oceu Apristawijaya Step inside this luxury boutique hotel and immerse yourself in more original, contemporary art works from South-east Asia and Australia that are decorated in all its 45 rooms.
Simply step outside to start exploring the living treasures within the heritage enclave, and hitch onto an island-inspired ride like the resident artists do.
Hotel owners Angela and Hijjas Kasturi, who are both active in the Malaysian art scene, were looking for a residency space when they found the existing Penaga site – which were a cluster of 15 pre-war doublestorey shop houses at the edge of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in George Town.
When you return, Penaga awaits like a welcome urban oasis with its hidden garden and pool – such soothing view to be enjoyed over leisurely meal at The Cinnamon verandah restaurant. Thereafter adjourn to the intimate Tanglung Bar for a drink or a late cup of Irish coffee.
The former shop houses have morphed into a unique heritage/ art hotel offering Hutton Rooms, Transfer Suites and Clarke Terrace Houses; all named after the streets the hotel rooms are facing.
And retire into comfortable Penaga rooms; individually furnished with antiques, art works and Jacuzzi where heritage and art come together for the ultimate in relaxation for the discerning guests.
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Penang
W
ith so much to see and do during the month long celebrations, it’s often hard to decide. Let
where2 guide you in the right direction with our personal picks of the events hosted by the Georgetown Festival 2012
The Manganiyar Seduction Venue: Dewan Sri Pinang Time & Date: 8pm 6, 7 ,8 July 2012 Ticket Price: RM 63, RM83, RM103, RM123 The ensemble of one conductor and 43 musicians with 36 red curtained cubicles in 4 horizontal rows come together to produce a continuous 80-minute performance. The concert begins when a single cubicle lights up and soon another cubicle lights up and then another, thus creating a dramatic and astounding build-up of musical instruments and voice as young men, women and children and the elderly of the Manganiyar community take you into a wonderfully exhilarating other world.
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Pro Musica Gala Concert Venue: Dewan Sri Pinang Time & Date: 8pm, 27 June 2012 Ticket Price: RM 43, RM63, RM83, RM103
The Philippine Madrigal Singers Venue: Penang PAC Time & Date: 8pm, 2 July 2012 Ticket Price: RM 43, RM 63, RM 83, RM 103
One of the highlights for this year’s George Town Festival is the gala operatic concert by Pro Musica which features four outstanding international singers, supported by students of the Master Classes which precede the concert.
The ensemble performs a wide repertoire of various styles and forms; Renaissancemusic, classical music, Filipino and international folksongs, contemporary and avant-garde music, opera and even popular music. Their specialization and focus on the madrigal idiom has inspired their unique set-up of singing while seated in a semi-circle, without a conductor.
Blinded Mind Venue: Dewan Sri Pinang Time & Date: 8pm, 4 July 2012 Ticket Price: RM 43, RM63, RM83, RM103
Rasa Sayang Venue: Penang PAC Time & Date: 8pm, 5, 6, 7 July 2012 Ticket Price: RM 43, RM 63
Internationally acclaimed Finnish choreographer Susanna Leinonen and her contemporary dance company present Blinded Mind, a 60-minute performance that premiered in 2011 to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Susanna Leinonen Company. The six dancers express themes of contrast and opposition using powerful visual and sound elements. The dreamlike sensitivity and stark reality of Blinded Mind tells a tale of the unavoidable consequences that ensue when a single individual bravely swims against the prevailing stream.
This interdisciplinary dance performance combines eastern spiritual themes with contemporary visual architecture. Rasa Sayang is the latest in a series of dance productions developed by longtime collaborators Tony Yap (director/dancer), Tim Humphrey and Madeleine Flynn (musicians/composer), Naomi Ota (visual artist) and Ben Rogan (creative collaborator). It premiered in Melbourne in 2010 to critical acclaim and sold-out houses. Sayang, meaning ‘love’ in Tony’s native Malaysian, is also the name of his mother who inspired the performance.
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Penang
Celestial animal Kirin
T
he significance of two “kirin” stone wall carvings at the entrance to the main hall of Khoo Kongsi Temple is lost on many.
Chinese folklore has it that “kirin” is a mythological animal that is only sighted when it appears during periods of peace and prosperity. These carvings in Khoo Kongsi are chosen symbols that serve as harbinger of good and happy times. So pause before you step over the threshold into the main hall, take a closer look to appreciate the interesting mythological animal; the dragon head in a scaled deer body. Inside the ancestral hall are large Chinese ink drawings of 36 celestial generals who are the guardian gods of the temple. Six generals on each
of the three rows rise to the ceiling on each side. Each of them rides on different celestial animals that symbolize their varied functions and prowess. One such drawing is an image of a ghost-buster while another, a protector, holding up a pagoda on one hand. Other mythological animals are flying dragon, jade rabbit, green buffalo, phoenix, turtle with unicorn and crane. “These drawings are national treasures of the country. These drawings and others within the temple are over a century old. They were recently restored to almost its original state,” says heritage architect Tan Yeow Wooi.
Celestial generals on wall murals come alive One worthy mention is a Chinese wall painting of “The Eight Immortals”, another a portrayal of a typical happy extended family during the Qing Dynasty with children and grandchildren playing traditional Chinese games like flying kites, catching crickets, hide and seek, fishing and shooting arrows. There are also scenes of lion dances. There are lessons to be gleaned from these large Chinese ink drawings, says Tan. The themes of the paintings are educational and are meant to imbibe moral values such as loyalty, patience, hardwork, self-esteem and filial piety. Another wall mural entitled “The Nine Old Men of the Tang Dynasty” is a study in ‘yin and yang’ to signify the importance of the understanding of the law of change while a scene of two men deep in thought playing Chinese chess highlights the essence of strategy in the successful execution of any plan.
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Khoo Kongsi
Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi 18, Medan Cannon 10200 Penang +604 261 4609 info@khookongsi.com.my www.khookongsi.com.my
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Penang
Penang Heritage Hotels Listings:
Yeng Keng Hotel 362, Lebuh Chulia, 10200 Penang 04 262 2177 www.yengkenghotel.com Banana Boutique 422, Lebuh Chulia, 10200 Penang 04 261 0718 bananaboutiquepenang.com
Chulia Heritage Hotel 380 Lebuh Chulia, 10200 Penang 04 263 3380 www.chuliaheritagehotel.com
Penaga Hotel Jalan Hutton , 10050 Penang 04 261 1891 www.hotelpenaga.com
Campbell House 106 Lebuh Campbell , 10100 Penang 04 261 8290 www.campbellhousepenang.com
Palanquin Heritage Suites 39, Lorong Bangkok, 10250 Penang 04 227 1088 www.palanquinn.com
100 Cintra Street 100 Lebuh Cintra, 10200 Penang 04 264 3581 www.100cintrastreet.com 1926 Heritage Hotel 227 Jalan Burma, 10050 Penang 04 228 1926 www.1926heritagehotel.com
Straits Heritage 92 Jalan Armenian, 10200 Penang 04 263 8128 http://www.straitsheritage.com Chymes Hotel Jalan Wee Hein Tze ,Tanjung Tokong, 11200 Penang 04 890 9088 www.chymeshotel.com
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 14 Lebuh Leith, 10200 Penang 04 262 0006 www.cheongfatttzemansion.com
1881 Chong Tian Hotel 38, 40, 42, Jalan Pintal Tali, 10100 Penang 04 263 1881 www.1881chongtian.com Muntri Mews 77 Lebuh Muntri, 10200 Penang 04 263 5125 www.muntrimews.com
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55 Cafe & Restaurant @ Coffee Atelier 47-55, Lorong Stewart, 10300 Penang 04 261 2261 Deluxcious Heritage Hotel 15 -17A, Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah, 10050 Penang 04 226 9993 www.deluxcious.com.my
Fig Tree Hotel Lot No.460, 461, off Jalan Kenari, mkm 10, Sungai Ara, 11900 Penang 04 264 2929 China Tiger 29 China Street, 10200 Penang 04 264 3580 chinatiger.info Mango Tree Place 29 Jalan Phuah Hin Leong, 10500 Penang 014 246 2132 www.mangotreeplace.com
Malihom Private Estate Kiri N/T 168, Bukit Penara, Mukim 6, 11000 Penang 04 226 4466 www.malihom.com 23 Love Lane 23, Lorong Love 10200 Penang lovelane23.wordpress.com
Heritage Hotels
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Penang
A STRAITS CHINESE ENGLISH DRAWING ROOM
Words by LILLIAN TONG
T
he halcyon days and elegant lifestyle of Straits Chinese Baba Nyonyas of the British Straits Settlements in Malaya is mesmerizing. Adopting anglophile ways, an English-styled drawing room in their mansion provides a suitable setting for after dinner drinks and ladies indulging in afternoon tea.
At the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, a late Victorian English drawing room opens out to an atrium with a pool. Silver, porcelains, crystal and exquisite decorative items overflow the th’ng tok dining table. On it are piled the most exquisite of tableware – Johnson Brothers plates and teacups, facetted wine, crystal cordial glasses, cut glass decanters set on a silver tray, silver serving spoons with handles made from lustrous ivory inlaid with mother of pearl, and silver cutlery sets impressed with chinoiserie butterflies flitting amongst trailing leaves. Dining chairs with monogrammed back stands stately at attention. The silver and opalescent glass epergnes are enthroned as centerpieces, its arabesque arms extending out pretty posies. Its base is filled with fruits or bunga rampey to fragrance the room.
gold gilded canapé à confidents provides an intimate setting for a ladies tete-a-tete and exchanged confidences. The brilliance of Waterford crystal chandelier illuminates the Pinang Peranakan Mansion’s English Drawing Room. The whole atmosphere is of cluttered elegance, alike the style of late Victorian and early Edwardian interiors. On the marbled top of sideboards and side tables, fine collectibles from the age of queenly Victorian splendor are displayed - bronze statues of Leda and the Swan, Narcissus and the nymph Echo at the pool, fragile porcelain figurines, a rare cobalt blue bohemian tea set, and a tantalus holding bottles of whisky, brandy and liqueur. Atop the grand piano, German bisque dolls tumble under the candelabra. Tiered cake stands filled with delightful kuih-kuih is placed alongside silver repousse ewer pouring delicious hot coffee into dainty fine bone china teacups. A persimmon and
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June + July
Pinang Peranakan Mansion 29 Lebuh Gereja, 10200 Penang 04 264 2929
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Penang
eoh urism, JaimeMY inistry of To
Tan Yeow Wooi
Director, ce Penang offi
ant a very import ary has been ial rs ec ve sp ni an ith e w heritag act travellers The UNESCO culture to attr g” in er ov sc tool in “redi ts. ritage and ar interest in he entering investments , with many by be used n es ca go y ar es rs tim ritage annive However as he e th ess side be sin ay bu site, m xy or perhaps our heritage e chic, the se th er ov sc di as a tool to e enclave. of our heritag
Heritage architect
“We see higher capital appreciation of the value of heritage buildings including old shop houses. As more and more old houses in the heritage enclave are being restored, there is a need for the local Municipal authority to be diligent in enforcement. There are rooms for improvement and a need to educate owners to ensure compliance. We also see more people buying old shop houses. The increase in demand led to the escalation of property prices. The flip side to this is the increasing rate of gentrification of the town that has forced more original residents to move out of the heritage enclave. These houses have been turned into boutique hotels, expensive cafes, souvenir shops and chic restaurants.”
’s tor
di
ick
p
wn E o Br ter g an r cen hor d Pa wke n Jo ha Jala at
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June + July
My choice for a light lunch that serves my favourite food is the food stalls at Padang Brown in Jalan Johor.
Sometimes, I gulped down two pieces of the popular popiah for more fibers in my diet.
By light, I mean, a plate of cucuk udang with its sweet and spicy gravy, a small bowl of laksa that won’t be filling and several sticks of ‘lok lok’ (roadside steamboat).
The food stalls, especially by the brothers selling laksa with its thick prawn paste, have been there since my school days about four decades ago.
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Melaka
Welcome to Melaka
where2 has touched down in Melaka! The historical city of Melaka is a true treasure trove of attractions mixing the rich varied local, Portuguese and Dutch influences .With the UNESCO World Heritage Listing anniversary celebration in July, it’s never been a better time to visit!
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Read on to find out what happened when our resident Penang Nyonya confronted her heritage, and discover the unique tastes of Melaka with our snapshots at its indigenous delicacies. We have also included an informative 2-page map of Melaka along with a listing of must-see attractions!
What are you waiting for, plan your trip! As the Melaka State Government has said, “Visiting Historic Melaka means Visiting Malaysia”. We couldn’t agree more!
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Melaka
A Foodie Weekend in Melaka Dear Baba Melaka,
Penang Nyonya took a weekend drive to visit Melaka to check out George Town’s twin to the World UNESCO Heritage Site award. This is a 24 hour culinary spree set in historic charming Melaka.
Penang Nyonya met up with Melaka baba nyonyas at the Melaka Peranakan Chinese Association. The President Dato’ Chua Jin Hock and his convoy of committee members accorded us a warm Melaka welcome – which invariably involved feeding us. This nyonya abandoned her kawan-kawan to hop into the President’s black Mercedes sports for the revv to the Hainanese Sun May Hiong Satay House. After banding together three mini round tables, we sat down to friendly fussing by the owners. The satay kept coming, and soon we had a pile of sticks enough to start a campfire! Lunchtime found us queuing at Chop Chung Wah for Melaka’s Chicken Rice Balls. This is no ordinary place! The queue stretched round the corner!
Nyonya and tiga sekawan arrived late at night and immediately started looking out for its famous Sate Celup along Lorong Bukit Cina. After a warm and hearty fifty sticks, we turned into bed in one of the many cozy boutique hotels in reclaimed Melaka Raya. Next morning, we drove around looking for breakfast. It is nine in the morning and shops are still closed and we are HUNGRY. We found a coffee shop near Lorong Laksamana by Casa Del Rio resort. Languid minutes later my hot steaming bowl of misoya bitter gourd noodle soup was in front of me. There were strips of fatty pork, lean pork, minced pork meatballs, tofu, tripe, bitter gourd, leafy veg, and cilantro, all in a bowl. Hmm. . . this is definitely a new culinary adventure! We crossed the two main bridges across the Melaka River many times admiring the beautiful architecture of Old Melaka houses and stopped by some shops to get kebayas and kasut maniks (beaded shoes). No trip to Melaka is complete without these to take home!
Dato’ Chua It was a hot afternoon, and 88 Jonker is the right place to escape the heat and humidity. Desserts galore! Two bowls of ice kacang and durian ice chendol later, we walked out of the café, all sweetened up. In the evening, we navigated our way to the Portuguese settlement at Ujung Pasir. It took awhile to locate the 35-year-old restaurant serving authentic Portuguese food. San Pedro Restaurant is spartan with tables and chairs and located on a quiet street behind the food square along the promenade where tourists are gathered. Ah! A day in Melaka is definitely insufficient to explore and delight in its charm and beauty!
I shall return! Yours truly
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Penang Nyonya Lillian Tong
2
Melaka
Portuguese Food candlenut, galangal and vinegar curry is an Eurasian Kristang cuisine. My favourites are the better-thancalamari deep fried crumbed sotong, and the eggplant that is beautifully panggang (grilled), toasty but not burnt, with soft white insides.
M
elaka’s Portuguese settlement at Ujung Pasir has Portuguese man of war, fish, mussels, and other shellfish and fresh seafood barbeque stalls lining the promenade. There you dine under open skies with the occasional breeze drifting in from the Selat of Malacca.
For the initiated though, the best local Eurasian Portuguese food is served at San Pedro restaurant hidden on a quiet backstreet about 100-meter away from the food square along the promenade. Behind its wooded exterior, Mother Mary looks on benignly, as you make your selection from the menu. I like the Curry Debal (Devil’s Curry), ladies fingers in sambal, and Chilli Fish in banana wrap. Curry Debal, a spicy
Afterwards, over a cool glass of beer, pretty Eurasian lasses might just appear in pretty Portuguese frocks and give you a wave and a curtsey as they walk by. A large turtle shell hanging on the wall has the inscription of the official opening of this restaurant by the then Melaka Chief Minister, Abdul Ghani Ali on 24 July 1977. Check out Restaurant San Pedro at 4, Aranjo Road, Portuguese Settlement, Ujong Pasir (tel: 06-2842170).
Sate Celup M
elaka’s famous Sate Celup is similar to Penang’s lok lok street steamboat. In Melaka, skewered meat, fish balls, seafood and vegetables are cooked in a ‘satay’ sauce.
The same hole-in-the-middle-ofthe-table fire pot keeps the satay sauce boiling hot while you dip in sticks of barbecued meat, fish paste stuffed in green chili and lady’s fingers to cook. There are over 50 varieties of skewered seafood, vegetables, tofu puffs, mushrooms, and fishcake stuffed in assorted vegetables to choose from.
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The incredible thick sauce is made from stock, chilli and over 30 spices and condiments from lemongrass, galangal to coriander seed. Rice ketupat with cucumber and big onion slices adds a moderating effect to the assault of chilli and spices. You may want to add some slices of crusty bread to wipe off the delicious sauce from your plate! Check out Kedai Sate Celup A Famosa at 25, Lorong Bukit Cina (tel: 013-3411790).
Melaka Food
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Melaka
T
he much-talked-about Chicken Rice Ball at Chop Chung Wah has five mounded balls of fragrant rice, slow cooked chicken with slices of cucumber, a sprinkling of spring onions and coriander sprigs. The meat is soft and tender.
Hainanese Rice Balls
It was pointed out to me that the five marbles of rice is to ensure that you finish it in five mouthfuls so that you can quickly vacate the table for the next customer! An important accompaniment to chicken rice is the combination of ingredients in the sauce. The chili-garlic-ginger sauce is superb and makes the plate of chicken rice special indeed. Do check out this shop (tel: 0133411790) along Jonker Walker, Melaka.
Hainanese Satay S
un May Hiong Satay House (tel: 06-2817281) is the specialty Hainanese satay place at Jalan Kota Laksamana 1/1, Taman Laksamana in town.
Pork meats and innards are barbequed over charcoal fire and served with ketupat, sliced cucumbers and big onions. Soon after being ushered to your seat, mounds of pork satay appeared on your table - skewered strips of pork and fat, liver cut in perfect cubes. Apparently they keep them coming until you say ‘halt!”
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Durian Iced Cendol
June + July
T
The specialty here is the sauce. This Hainanese satay adds star fruit to the sauce to give it a sweet and tangy twist. For the lack of star fruit, pineapple is substituted. Yummy! It’s true! This shop, previously located along the touristy Jonker Walk, relocated here a few years ago, and yet locals and tourists queued up for the tasty sticks.
he entrance to 88 Jonker is flanked by a popular Melaka noodles stall and a dessert stall. The latter has all varieties of desserts and shaved ice options.
The durian ice cendol comes in a mound of shaved ice sitting on a lake of coconut milk and Melaka’s famed fragrant palm sugar (gula Melaka). Lemak! Dive in and bring out treasured strips of green cendol and red kidney beans. The mound is duly drizzled with sweetened evaporated milk and a dollop of durian syrup is its crowning glory. Sweet!
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Melaka 1 - 31 June 2012
7 July 2012
Melaka River Fiesta 2012
4th Anniversary of UNESCO World Heritage City Celebration!
7 - 9 July 2012
Jet Ski Race International Award Venue: Dataran1 Malaysia
13 & 14 July 2012, 8.30PM - 1.00 AM
MELAKA UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE MUSIC FESTIVAL 2012 Venue: Dataran Sungai Melaka & Taman Rempah
24 June 2012
Melaka International Dragon Boat Race 2012
Venue: Bandar Hilir, Melaka
Melaka Calender
Venue: Melaka River
23 June 2012
San Juan Festival
of event
Venue: Portugese Settlement
29 June 2012
San Pedro Festival
Venue: Jonker Walk The second MELAKA-UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE MUSIC FESTIVAL is scheduled to be held from 13th – 14th July 2012 at the Jonker Walk stage area in the heart of the core Heritage Zone. This event is held in conjunction with the celebration of Melaka as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and endorsed by the Ministry of Tourism and supported by Tourism Malaysia with the assistance of the Melaka State Government. Featuring bands from Melaka, Johor, Sabah, Sarawak, as well as form Thailand, Indonesia and Macau, the objective is to give them a platform to showcase their musical abilities to both domestic and international audiences (FREE ENTRANCE)
Venue: Portugese Settlement
For more enquiries, please contact MATTA MELAKA CHAPTER Tel: 06-2869668 or email: mattamelakachapter@gmail.com
Melaka Air Flight Air flights between the Penang and Melaka sector are available early this year and operate on every Mondays and Fridays. These flights run by Melaka Air has the tagline “Take the Sky” and operate out of Melaka International Airport in Batu Berendam using aircraft leased from Firefly for its service.
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Melaka
List of Tourism Attractions in
Melaka!!!
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The Stadthuys Circle intersection of Jalan Quayside, Jalan Laksamana, and Jalan Chan Koon Cheng
Melaka River Melaka Town
A’ Famosa Fort Jalan Kota, Malaka
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple No. 25, Jalan To’kong 75200
Jonker Street Jonker Street
Baba Nyonya Heritage Musuem 48-50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200
Bukit China Jalan Puteri Hang Li Poh, Bukit Cina, Melaka
Butterfly & Reptile Sanctuary Lebuh Ayer Keroh, 75450
Melaka Zoo Hang Tuah Jaya, Ayer Keroh, 75450
Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum 48-50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200
Cheng Ho’s Cultural Museum 51, Lorong Hang Jebat
Hang Jebat Mausoleum Jalan Kampung Pantai Melaka, 75200
June + July
Melaka
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Melaka
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Perak
Welcome to Perak
P
Perak is a land of history, culture and natural wonders that is sure to leave travellers with unforgettable memories.
With 2012 being the Visit Perak Year, there has never been a better time to sample the many attractions offered in this bountiful state. Stand in awe at the massive limestone formations in the city of Ipoh, that some have come to call
Necessary Numbers:
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where2 will steer you in the right direction with our list of top ten must-see attractions in Perak whilst our findings regarding the Royal Belum State Park will leave you much surprised! (Sarawak, beware!) Read on.
Perak Tourism Numbers
Emergency
Police Ambulance Fire Brigade Hospital Raja Permaisuri Bainun (Hospital Ipoh) Hospital Kuala Kangsar
the Guilin of China; relish in the beauty and tranquillity of Pulau Pangkor; explore the regal glory of the royal town of Kuala Kangsar or delve into Taiping the land of many firsts in Malaysia.
999 999 999 05 208 5000 05 776 3333
Tourism Malaysia State Office (Perak) Tourist Information Centres (Perak) Immigration Department (Ipoh) Sultan Azlan Shah Airport (Ipoh) Lumut Ferry Terminal
05 255 2772 05 683 4057 05-501 7100 05 318 8202 05 681 046
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Perak
A Plain -pouched hornbill
W
ith all of Malaysia’s 10 species of hornbills sighted in the Royal Belum State Park, Perak may soon outshine Sarawak as the Land of the Hornbills.
These 10 hornbills, including the recently re-discovered and globally threatened Plain-pouched Hornbill, have been sighted separately but in 2007 bird watchers reported sightings of all in one spot within 24 hours.
A birding paradise
at Royal Belum State Park
The lucky watchers may witness the mass movements of over 1,000 individuals of Plain-pouched Hornbills, a breathtaking sight for any wildlife enthusiast. Bird watching season is from August to October. For the best overall birding, the camp at Sungai Kejar is probably the best, but to view the overflight of Plain-pouched Hornbills, the Sungai Tiang camp is better.
The state park has 222 species of birds, and the number in the list is growing as more people go birding and report sightings. Some of Malaysia’s prized bird species found here are the Trogons, Peacockpheasants, and Paradise-flycatchers. Birdwatching within the State Park can be carried out on a boat in Tasek Temenggor, where you can afford excellent views of hornbills on their daily migrations to fruiting trees scattered throughout the forests.
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From the lake, you have the opportunity to see raptors, such as Osprey, Fish-eagles, Falconets and in the wintering months, migratory species such as Honey-buzzards and Accipiters. The presence of large mammal species such as elephants, rhinoceroses, tapirs and tigers makes Belum very special. Various tour operators now offer guided tours to certain areas of the reserve and will arrange for the necessary permits, river and road transport and accommodation, which may include camping. Trails can be found throughout various places surrounding the lake giving you access into a rainforest system estimated to be older than the Amazon or Congo. Other than wildlife, another attraction is the world’s largest flower, the rafflesia. For more info, call Perak State Parks Corporations at tel: +605 - 791 7858 or fax: +605 - 791 7852.
The “Great” Hornbill
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Perak Orang Utan Island
Lost World of Tambun
Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve
Bukit Merah Laketown Resort ,Bukit Merah, Semanggol 05 890 8888 Check out these gentile and amazing creatures for yourself at this enclave which is located at the entrance of Bukit Merah Laketown Resort
No. 1, Persiaran Lagun Sunway 1, Ipoh 31150 Perak 05 808 6577 Thrill seekers take note! You will love their adrenalin pumping adventures and gorgeous natural attractions. A stunning expedition for the whole family!
Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve, Taiping, 34000 Perak 05 254 2007 It’s considered the best managed sustainable mangrove forest in Malaysia and among the best managed mangrove ecosystems in the world
Banjaran Hot Spring
The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat, No 1, Persiaran Lagun Sunway 3, 31150 Perak 05 210 7777 The first and probably the finest luxury wellness retreat in Malaysia.
Royal Belum State Park
Taiping Zoo and Night Safari
where 2’s Top Tourist Attractions in Perak
Royal Belum Rainforest, Pulau Banding, Gerik, 33200 Perak 05 791 4543 A paradise for nature lovers, this nature based sanctuary is amongst the region foremost bird watching area. Check out our feature on it in pg 41 Gua Tempurung (Tempurung Cave)
9A Medan Gopeng 4, 31350 Perak One of the largest natural limestone underground cavity in the country its features stunning formations of stalactites and stalagmites.
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Jalan Taman Tasik Taiping, Taiping 34000, Malaysia 05 808 6577 Established in 1961, it’s the oldest zoo in Malaysia and features a must try night safari!
Kellie’s Castle
Jalan Gopeng, Batu Gajah, Malaysia 05 365 1336 Built by Scottish painter, William Kellie Smith it has remained a big tourist draw and was even used in the filming of the 1999 film, ‘Anna and the King’.
Sam Poh Tong
Gunung Rapat,31350 Perak A stunning example of artistic flair and religious devotion, it’s the largest cave temple in Malaysia and dates back since the 1950’s
Ipoh Railway Station
Jalan Panglima Bukit Gantang Wahab, 30000 Perak Dubbed the ‘Taj Mahal’ of Ipoh visitors will certainly be taken in by its stunning architectural characteristics
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Langkawi
T
here are always plenty of meaningful experiences for one to enjoy when visiting Langkawi, reputedly The Jewel of Kedah and the entire 99 splendid isles.
Welcome to
Langkawi
By Bicycle You can rent bicycles in many of the hotels. The rental is between RM10 and RM 30 per day. By Taxi A taxi ride from the Airport to Pantai Cenang costs RM18. Coupons are available at the taxi counter at the airport. The fare from the ferry terminal to Pantai Cenang is RM 24 and RM 8 to Kuah Town. By Car or Motorcycle Renting a car or motorcycle is highly recommended due to the lack of public transport. This can be done at the airport, Jetty Point or from shops along Pantai Cenang. Refrain renting from touts, as many of them operate illegally and do not provide insurance coverage. It is important to check on your fuel level regularly as most petrol stations are located a distance from each other.
Emergency
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Whether you are on a cruise or are exploring it on land, be sure you get close and check out its astounding geological beauty and heritage over 90 geosites. As they say, Geopark is more than just rocks!
By Air Langkawi International Airport is located at Padang Matsirat, about 20km from Kuah, and 8km from the beach resorts in Pantai Cenang. The airlines offering service to/from Langkawi are AirAsia, Malaysia Airlines, Firefly and SilkAir. Direct flights are also available to Penang and Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. By Road Visitors travelling by road have to drive to Kuala Kedah or Kuala Perlis - the two main take-off points by ferry to Langkawi. Ample car parking facilities are available at both the ferry terminals. By Sea Langkawi Ferry operates air-conditioned express ferry services from Kuala Perlis for RM18 one way (45-minute trip), Kuala Kedah for RM23 (90-minutes trip), Penang RM60 (3-hours) and Satun, south Thailand for RM30 (45-minute) daily.
Langkawi Tourist Information Centre
Necessary Numbers Police Ambulance Fire Brigade Langkawi District Hospital Langkawi Tourist Information Centre Kuah
In this issue, where2 brings you to Langkawi Geopark, which coincidentally celebrates its fifth anniversary as a member of UNESCO’s Global Geopark Network.
999 999 994 04 966 3333 04 966 7789
Langkawi International Airport Post Office Tenaga National Berhad Telekom Registration Department Immigration Department Customs Department Teluk Ewa Langkawi Development Authority (LADA) Kuala Perlis Jetty Kuala Kedah Jetty
04 955 1311 04 966 3271 04 966 6020 04 966 6210 04 966 6330 04 959 1076 04 959 1077 04 966 7186 04 986 1899 04 762 6295
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Langkawi
Field of Burnt Rice Kampung Raja, Mukim Padang Mat Sirat
Underwater World Pantai Cenang, Mukim Kedawang
Cable Car Jalan Telaga Tujuh, Tulek Burau
Atma Alam Batik Village Lot 227, Jalan Padang Matsirat
Crocodile Farm Jalan Datai, Mk. Ayer Hangat
Langkawi’s
Oriental Village Jalan Teluk Burau, Pantai Kok
Must Visit Attractions! Mahsuri’s Mausoleum Kampung Mawat, Mukim Ulu Melaka
Sky Bridge Jalan Telaga Tujuh, Teluk Burau
Al-Hana Mosque Lencongan Putra 2
Bird Paradise Wildlife Park Jalan Ayer Hangat, Kampung Belanga Pecah
Air Hangat Village Air Hangat Road KM16, Lubok Semilang, Padang Matsirat
Telaga Harbour Park Telaga Harbour Park, Pantai Kok
The Langkawi Development Authority (LADA) has recently announced a list of fares for taxi drivers. Here are some of the fares from both the Airport as well as Kuah Town: Taxi Fare One Way From Airport To:
Destination Langkasuka Rst./ Pdg Matsira Pantai Cenang/ Sheraton Langkawi Resort Holiday Villa Rst./ Aseania Rst Awana Porto Malai/ Star Cruise Mutiara Burau Bay/ Seven Well Waterfall/ Harbour Park/ Pantai Kok/ Cable Car/ Oriental Village/ City Bayview Hotel/ Langkasuka Hotel/ Grand Cont./ Pekan Kuah/ Dataran Lang/ Jetty Point Ayer Hangat/ Pasir Hitam Tanjung Rhu, Four Season Resort Tmn Hidupan Liar/ Kilim Mangove/ Galeria Perdana Gunung Raya The Andaman/ The Datai
Taxi Fare One Way From Kuah To:
Destination Jetty Point/ Dataran Lang/ Lkg Fair/ Langkasuka Hotel Tmn Hidupan Liar/ Kilim Mangrove/ Galeria Perdana/ Kg Tok Senik Ayer Hangat/ Pdg Matsirat Airport/ Pantai Cenang/ Pantai Tengah/ Frangipani/ Holiday Villa/ The Lanai Sheraton Lgk Beach Resort/ Awana Poto Malai Tanjung Rhu/ Four Season Resort Harbour Park/ Oriental Village/ Cable Car The Datai/ The Andaman
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1-4 RM 12.00 RM 18.00 RM 20.00 RM 22.00 RM 24.00
5-6 RM 18.00 RM 27.00 RM 30.00 RM 33.00 RM 36.00
7-8 RM 24.00 RM 36.00 RM 40.00 RM 44.00 RM 48.00
9-11 RM 33.00 RM 50.00 RM 55.00 RM 61.00 RM 66.00
RM 25.00 RM 30.00 RM 35.00 RM 50.00 RM 60.00
RM 38.00 RM 45.00 RM 53.00 RM 75.00 RM 90.00
RM 50.00 RM 60.00 RM 70.00 RM 100.00 RM 120.00
RM 69.00 RM 83.00 RM 97.00 RM 138.00 RM 165.00
1-4 RM 6.00 RM 14.00 RM 18.00 RM 24.00 RM 28.00 RM 35.00 RM 36.00 RM 60.00
5-6 RM 9.00 RM 21.00 RM 27.00 RM 36.00 RM 42.00 RM 53.00 RM 54.00 RM 90.00
7-8 RM 12.00 RM 28.00 RM 36.00 RM 48.00 RM 56.00 RM 70.00 RM 72.00 RM 120.00
9-11 RM 17.00 RM 39.00 RM 50.00 RM 66.00 RM 77.00 RM 97.00 RM 99.00 RM 165.00
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Langkawi
“catch your own meal ”
Fish farm restaurant Words by L. JEREMIAH
F
ish Farm Restaurant is the one-of-its-kind novel themed seafood eatery in Langkawi that offers “catch your own meal” style of dining experience.
A boat is on standby to take you out to the fish farm out at sea where you can pick your choice of fish or experience cage fishing for your catch of the day. The restaurant’s deco is unlike the typical that you find around the island. You can easily be mistaken strolling inside a beautiful garden. At the main entrance are an inviting trishaw purchased from a peddler in Penang and a traditional Malay bullock cart. Behind these are rows of fish tanks for seafood lovers to choose from that leads into the dining hall on the right. Inside the dining hall is a row of 10 Japanese-like sit-in cubicles on raised platform that cater for smaller groups. The hurricane-lamp lanterns and lightings over the dining tables and chairs add rainbow colours to the ambience. Outside, the long passage way is decorated with two rows of
recycled wooden stump trunks that host colourful flowering plants. It leads to spacious grounds; manicured lawn good for golf putting and a hanging garden – for smokers - with climbers hanging down from overhead wooden beams. Recycled rice stone mills served as table tops. Straight ahead is the restaurant’s most interesting section, the Beer Garden. It is a broad wooden platform on concrete stilts that projects 100 meter out into the sea. Diners can enjoy their beers under open sky or have their meals in a romantic and relaxing setting in a breezy evening overlooking the sea; dotted with several islets. If you have visited Hanoi before, you can’t escape the feeling of being transported to the enchanting sea view of the famous UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay.
Fish Farm Restaurant & Resort Lot 1986, Jalan Pantai Penarak, Mukim Kuah, 07000 Langkawi 04 966 7988
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Langkawi
Langkawi Geopark is more than just rock formations words by L. JEREMIAH
I
t is about islands, caves, mountains, wildlife, culture and people.
Five million visitors have been there since it started in 2003. Another way to enjoy Langkawi’s panoramic view of Langkawi Island is to walk on top of the SkyBridge.
The caves in Geopark serve as a great way to study its geological history. Do not miss out Gua Cerita where ancient wall paintings tell of strange and mythical beasts.
The park turns five on June 1 for being accorded Geopark status by the UNESCO back in 1997.
For the more adventurous and energetic, try rock climbing or scale the Gunung Machinchang’s rocky face or if not abseil the limestone karst’s cliffs.
Another exciting attraction is the Tasik Dayang Bunting fresh water lake. There are many versions to this legend, among them, is that the lake’s water possesses some mystical power of helping barren women to bear children.
There are many attractions for one to experience in this isle of legends and mystique. The three main conservation and popular tourist sites are Machincang Cambrian Geoforest Park, Kilim Karst Geoforest Park and Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest park. Gunung Machincang is one of the oldest rock formations in South East Asia and is said to be 550 million years old. To get there, one must take the Panorama Langkawi Skycab, the world’s steepest cable car ride, at Oriental Village in Burau Bay.
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The mangroves at Kilim are lush habitats for it rich wildlife. Night time is a good time to take jungle walks and reef dives because some sights such as the firefly can only be seen at night at the mangrove swamps. Experienced naturalists can guide you to marvel at the Strangler Fig and flying squirrels and also tracking wild boars.
The Geopark is also home to a host of bird life, some 200 living here while another 150 or so stop by on an annual pilgrimage. Butterflies are also aplenty, with as many as 350 species.
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Langkawi
Healthy anti-oxidant therapy
to rejuvenate body adjusted to between 41 and 44 degree Celsius according to guests’ need. Each room holds two persons. Piped in music makes the sleepin soothing and time just passed without much notice. After only 30 minutes of anti-oxidant therapy, I left the spa rejuvenated with a spring in my steps.
L
eftovers of egg yolk and bread had dried up; but there is no sign of it turning bad nor had it molded for over a year when it was left on a table inside the holding room of the anti-oxidant sauna.
The Frangipani Spa by the sea is a sanctuary to restore your physical and mental well-being with the soothing combination of Malay, Thai and Balinese therapies.
A sticker marked the date 9-2-2011 on the saucer. That was the day the anti-oxidant sauna was introduced at the award-winning green resort Frangipani Langkawi Resort & Spa in Pantai Tengah. I had earlier thought that staff at the Frangipani Spa was lazy and had not thrown away the leftover until resort general manager Jeffrey Goh explained to me. “See these leftovers of egg and bread they did not go bad and there is no fungus on the bread. This is because there are no bacteria inside here, so no decay of the food. This is what anti-oxidant therapy will do to help you improve your health and mental well-being,” he says.
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Anti-oxidant therapy provided by Frangipani Langkawi is ahead of its time on the island resort of Langkawi though its health benefits are welldocumented; blood circulation improvements, reduce diabetic and cholesterol levels, relieved rheumatism and anti-aging. The resort’s anti-oxidant therapy room is a climate-controlled environment rich in over two million negative ions – often are referred to as ‘vitamins in the air’ - to rejuvenate the body. These negative ions are the good guys as compared to positive ions which are free radicals that caused decay and disease. The therapy room has three sauna rooms where temperature can be The Frangipani Langkawi Resort & Spa P.O. Box 138, Jalan Teluk Baru Pantai Tengah, Mukim Kedawang, 07100, Langkawi, Kedah Tel: (604) 952-0000 Fax: (604) 952-001 Email: rsvn@frangipanilangkawi.com www.frangipanilangkawi.com
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Langkawi
Hainanese Chicken Rice takes the limelight
T
he Langkawi Hainanese Chicken Rice shop has become the talk of town for being picked to feed Chinese cuisine chefs who had gathered on the island from all over the country.
Proprietor Joe Foo hosted 300 discerning Chinese cuisine chefs and restaurant owners to its authentic chicken rice at his shop in Kuah town recently.
The guests were among 600 delegates from the Pan Malaysia Koo Soo Restaurant and Chefs Association who assembled at the Mutiara Burau Bay Resort in Langkawi for their annual conference.
“I am glad everything went on smoothly. The delegates are chefs you know. And I am pleased they even asked me to serve them more chicken,” says Joe, who has an able hand in his wife Jean to help out.
Langkawi Development Authority Chief Executive Officer Tan Sri Khalid Ramli also played host to the delegates on the first day of the conference on May 15.
Operated by the Aston International, which is Indonesia’s largest Hotel Group chain, the property features 97 guest rooms outfitted with LCD television sets and complimentary Wi-Fi facility throughout the building.
The first impression greeting a visitor is the rich American culture ingrained, such as a large wall photo of the iconic starlet Marilyn Monroe. The hotel faces a lush paddy field, has a cobalt blue outdoor swimming pool and spa services.
Fave Hotel
Fave Hotel Chenang Beach Langkawi
Info box Fave Hotel Langkawi Tel : +604 955 6600 Email : LangkawiInfo@FaveHotels.com
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L
ANGKAWI witnessed the debut of its newest hotel - Favehotel Chenang Beach Langkawi, a property located just a 15-minute walk from the touristy Chenang Beach.
Sales manager Rika Muiyani says the main selling point is the 3B principles of the Aston Group which is “bed, bath and breakfast”. “The 3B have become a necessity for most hotel guests - a comfortable bed to sleep, a nice bathroom and a hearty breakfast to start the day,” she says.
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Langkawi
Royal Wedding at the Cliff Restaurant
W
ed in style and be treated like royalty in a full traditional Malay marriage ceremony; look no further than at Cliff Restaurant in Langkawi. The wedding package - specially choreographed - comes with a grand reception by a ‘kompang’ troupe, akad nikah (marriage contract) and bersanding (enthronement) preparations. Restaurant staff comes garbed in Malay traditional costume with matching songkok. And for courtly effect and countenance, several are dressed as Malay warriors with each carrying a kris.
The Cliff Restaurant & Bar Lot 63 & 40, Jalan Pantai Cenang, 07000 Langkawi 04 953 3228
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Restaurant manager S. Ramesh can bank on his vast experience acquired while managing the banquet hall of a five-star resort to deliver your exquisite and memorable wedding experience that the married couple will cherish for a life time. Ramesh says the restaurant has successfully hosted a wedding Malay ceremony and reception for an Aussie couple recently. He says betrothed couples can choose a garden concept with white and blue theme decorations and guests can be feted with Malay and Western cuisine or BBQ. “Our wedding package is good for up to 150 pax. The ceremony can be elaborate and will be tailored to meet the couple’s budget,” he says.
Arriving guests will be met at the breezy sea-front garden with hot or cold canapés and they can chill out before the dinner proper,” he says. The elegant setting includes a center-piece that is decorated flowers, sea shells and low and long candles. Fine dinner table settings with Tiffany chairs will evoke elegance and grandeur. Guests can take home a unique souvenir in the form of a light stone slab imprints of the wedding menu they have just tasted. The restaurant works with Darling Florist for flower arrangement. Live band can be arranged and is optional. For the adventurous, try the Indian-themed reception and enjoy the lively and feisty Bhangra dance!
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Langkawi
A Night with Tropical Charters
I
t was a night where the tour and travel community in Langkawi literally let their hairs down. The occasion was a thank-you dinner party organised by the island’s yachting operator-Tropical Charters Sdn Bhd which has the largest fleet of seven vessels.
“We worked almost every day throughout the year. Tonight, we have a break and have fun,” declares Tropical Charters owner Datuk Alexander, who also manages a restaurant called Red Sky here. The travel community numbers over 1,000 on the island and they are kept busy as Langkawi turns into an all-year round tourist destination. After a sumptuous buffet spread, diners took home prizes with their right answers in a quiz. Tropical Charters staffers put on amusing skits at the ballroom in Awana Porto Malai Resort, poking fun at themselves including Alex and the many foreign tour operators present.
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Words by JOHN CHIN
Present were Fave Hotel sales manager Rika Muiyani, Langkawi businessman Ooi Cheng Choon, trader S. Balamurali, Meenviks Nature Holidays director K. Vikneswaran, Underwater World Langkawi general manager Lynn Zubir, travel agent (German market) Samuel A. Rajab, Mutiara Burau Bay Resort operations manager Zabidi Hamid, Aseania Resort and Spa general manager Jasmy Othman, national mariner Datuk Azhar Mansor, Langkawi Tourist Association deputy president Pishol Isahak and manager Kamarul Zaharin. Tropical Charters Sdn Bhd. Kedai No. 3, Kampung Tasik Anak, Jalan Telok Baru, Pantai Tengah, 07000 Langkawi 04 955 3407 www.tropicalcharters.com.my
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Langkawi
Everyone can cruise Words by L. JEREMIAH
D
ato’ Alexander grew up by the sea. So it was a given that he would eventually venture into sailing but it did not prepare him for what was to come. Within a short three years, his company Tropical Charters Langkawi that he started with one boat in 2009 has grown to become the popular operator with the largest fleet of leisure vessels. His love for the sea began in Penang. His family never had a boat but as he grew older, Alexander knew he would one day own a boat; and therein begun his love story with sailing that also transformed the seascape in Langkawi. Today, his yacht charters company operates a fleet; from luxury private yachts for over-nighters to power boats to ride the waves and daytime cruise. Tropical Charters employs 30 staff and crew members and offers a range of package tours both land and sea. His popular sunset cruise is on the twin-deck catamaran ‘Seasation’ that can accommodate 65 passengers.
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charters
are
available
on the luxurious sailing yacht ‘Suka-Suka’and his latest addition, the Malaysian-built Cengal wood yacht ‘Warisan Duyong’ is a stunning wooden yacht built in traditional Malay style.
Langkawi has a unique charm and character that none can match,” says Alexander, who has plans to introduce a MyKad cruise for Malaysians soon so that “everyone can cruise”.
Those who prefer to have an exclusive private charter experience can choose among the elegant high-speed boat ‘Alexandra’, the adventurous RIB, sailing yacht ‘Suka Suka’ and a host of other yachts.
The MyKad cruise is in line with former Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad’s vision of making Langkawi the premier island playground for Malaysians and their families and Alexander’s introduction of these cruises will help in a small way to achieve this vision.
The affable Alexander knows just what to offer for those who want a good time cruising in the sea. His extensive “sea menu” allows his clients the choice of booking a day or sunset sailing dinner cruise, sunset cocktail, beach and wedding or honeymoon cruises and for companies ’incentives and theme cruises. “Our cruise allows clients to soak in breathtaking views of Langkawi Geopark, an encounter that none can match in the world. “It is value for money and they no longer need to go elsewhere, Langkawi has so much to offer and in all my travels to various islands around the world, I must say that
Langkawi
Four Points @ Sheraton Langkawi
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Langkawi
Frangipani Langkawi Resort & Spa P.O. Box 138. Jalan Teluk Baru Pantai Tengah, Mukim Kedawang, 07100 Langkawi
04 952 0000 www.frangipanilangkawi.com
Come Stay With Me
Aseania Resort Langkawi Simpang Tiga, Jalan Pantai Tengah, 07100, Langkawi 04-955 2020 www.aseanialangkawi.com
Casa Del Mar Jalan Pantai Cenang Mukim Kedawang, 07000 Langkawi 04 955 2388 www.casadelmar-langkawi.com
Fave Hotel Cenang Beach Lot 119, Pantai Tengah, Mukim Padang Mat Sirat, 07000 Langkawi 04 955 6600 langkawiInfo@FaveHotels.com
Four Points By Sheraton Kuala Muda, Mukim Padang Matsirat, 07100, Langkawi 04 955 6888 www.starwoodhotels.com/fourpoints/property
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Mali Best Resort Pantai Cenang, Mukim Kedawang, 07000 Langkawi 04-955 8202 malibestresort.com
CasaFina Fine Homes & Avenue Lot 53, Persiaran Pantai Cenang, Mukim Kedawang, 07000 Langkawi 04 9533 555 www.casafina.my
Bon Ton Resort & Restaurant Pantai Cenang 07000 Langkawi 04 955 1688 www.bontonresort.com
Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort Jalan Pantai Kok, Teluk Nibong, 07000 Langkawi 04 952 8000 www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/property
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Langkawi
P
antai Cenang is a busy touristy stretch of beach in Langkawi, yet there you still can find chalets with a rustic setting to stay in. Casa Fina, which means fine home in Spanish, is set amidst a garden that gives you the feeling of being home away from home.
Its cabin style rooms are all facing the garden and come with wooden verandahs with tables and chairs that entice guests to stay put to enjoy the garden views. Casa Fina, with its attractive orange and black signage, is easy to locate opposite the Underwater World Langkawi. Hotel guests get up to 20 per cent discounts on meals at nearby Red Tomato, Red Sky and Taj Mahal restaurants.
Sky Trail : Stairway to Heaven!
P
anorama Langkawi’s sky trail has steadily become a favourite amongst visitors and for good
reason! Spend nearly half a day on this mountain trail, hiking up the trail from the foot at Oriental Village. The trail takes you up the sheer cliffs of the Machinchang formations, nearly 550 million-
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year-old, and to the top where visitors have a 360 degree view of the island. It’s also home to some of the most diverse and wondrous flora and fauna around and is considered to be the centre piece in Langkawi’s UNESCO Geopark attractions. It’s truly a stairway to heaven!
Langkawi
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LADA receives
International Tourism Award
C
hief Executive Officer Tan Sri Khalid Ramli received the prestigious “37th International Award for Tourist, Hotel and Catering Industry (New Millennium Award)” accorded by the Trade Leader’s Club, Madrid, on behalf of Langkawi Development Authority (LADA) recently.
The award conferred international recognition for exemplary ‘Tourism Promotion and Development in its area for the year 2011’ and it was held at the Melia Castle Hotel in Madrid on January 19, 2012. This award speaks volume on LADA’s efforts to promote activities and tourism developments in Langkawi. Under the new Langkawi Tourism Blueprint, LADA will strive to turn Langkawi into a world class tourist destination. LADA has targeted to achieve 3 million tourist arrivals by year 2015 that will double the tourism related revenue to RM3.8 billion from RM1.9 billion currently.
First formula jet ski tournament off to good start
M
alaysian hopeful, Mohammad Ariff from team Jetstar Racing snatched the chequered flag in the hotly contested ‘4-stroke Pro Am stock’ category first round of The Langkawi International Formula Jet Ski Super Series.
He beat Lim Hong Hao of Meganrata Racing. Peter Hor of LT Kawasaki came in third. In the ‘2-Stroke 800 Open class’, Abdullah Mubin of CTM Racing took 1st place whilst Melissa Karina Yahaya from CTM narrowly won the ‘4-Strke Women Open’ class Boasting 5 different categories, the races were open to both men and women, attracting over 8,000 spectators. The season comprises six chapters to be held in selected venues and states throughout the country. The championship winners from the 4-Stroke (Men) and 4-Stroke (Women) category during
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the final chapter of the Super Series, to be held in Langkawi again, in December will represent Team Malaysia at the 32nd World Finals in Lake Havasu, Arizona, USA in 2011. Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad, the former prime minister, declared open the competition with the blast of air horns at Pantai Lagenda, Kuah, on April 13, 2012. The event, organized by Bintang Puspa Sdn Bhd, was sanctioned by IJSBA (International Jet Ski & Boating Association), and supported by Langkawi Development Authority.