17 minute read
Sights
EDITOR’S PICK
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HIGH ABOVE THE CROWDS
It doesn’t take a long day of hiking to get spectacular mountaintop views. Ride the historic "Big Chair" sightseeing chairlift at Mt Norquay (p 40) and try the via ferrata or enjoy a bite at Cliffhouse Bistro (p 57). The Banff Gondola (p 39) will take you to the top of Sulphur Mountain. Enjoy interpretative displays at the upper terminal, mountaintop dining and a short walk along the boardwalk to the historic weather observatory at Sanson Peak. Experience beautiful alpine meadows and glaciers at the top of the Lake Louise Summer Gondola (p 40). Join a free interpretative program or try a guided hike. -KB
NEW OWNERS. OLD TRADITIONS.
Shadow Lake Lodge (p 31) was built in 1929 by the Canadian Pacific Railway. The Brewster family purchased the lodge in 1938 to show guests a luxurious getaway with meals, wine and comfort. Now, the Alpine Club of Canada has taken ownership of this historic oasis. They will continue the legacy of exceptional hospitality as they open their doors to a new type of backcountry lodge. -KB
ROAM AWAY
Looking to get to Lake Louise? Want to visit Moraine Lake? Or do you just want to get around town without dealing with summer traffic? ROAM Transit (p 40) is the area’s trusted regional transit service that will get you there, safely and on time. Get to all the attractions without the fuss. New this year: book your Moraine Lake shuttle in advance. No more waiting for the bus! -KB
DRIVING TOURS
BOW VALLEY PARKWAY
This 48 km/30 mi drive between Banff and Lake Louise offers spectacular views. Known for animal sightings: this drive requires a slower speed limit, often 60 kmh/40 mph, to protect wildlife.
From Banff, go 5.5 km/3.4 mi west on Hwy 1 to the Bow Valley Parkway exit.
Muleshoe Picnic Area, 11 km/7 mi, features a wetlands bird habitat. At Johnston Canyon, 25 km/15 mi, walk the easy interpretive trail along catwalks anchored to cliffs and see the two waterfalls. There is a restaurant at the trailhead.
Moose Meadows, 27 km/17 mi, was once Silver City, a town dedicated to silver mining from 1880 to 1887.
At Castle Mountain Viewpoint, 36 km/22 mi, take in Castle Mountain's crenelated cliffs, formed when older rock was thrust up and over younger rock.
Morant’s Curve Lookout was named after Canadian Pacific Railway photographer, Nicholas Morant. This lookout offers views of the Bow River and the railway.
The Bow Valley Parkway rejoins Hwy 1 at the village of Lake Louise.
CANMORE TO CANMORE VIA KANANASKIS VILLAGE
145 km/90 mi route through Kananaskis Country. From Canmore, take the Trans-Canada Hwy east toward Calgary. Visit Bow Valley Provincial Park, 26 km/16 mi, home to the Many Springs Trail, a 2.8 km/1.7 mi loop around cold springs, with a riverside picnic area. Continue 4 km/2.5 mi east and take Hwy 40 south to Kananaskis.
Cross the grazing lands of the Stoney First Nation, then stop at Canoe Meadows and look for kayakers on the Kananaskis River whitewater slalom course. Continue south to Barrier Lake, with a view of Mt Baldy. Kananaskis Village was built for the 1988 Winter Olympics and has a hotel, restaurants, shops, bike rentals and Alberta's only Nordic Spa. Take the scenic stroll along the rim of the plateau or head past the village access road up Mt Allan Dr to Troll Falls.
MEAL WITH A VIEW
Eating outdoors in Banff enhances your meal with fresh mountain air and stunning vistas! Picnic sites around Banff include the Recreation Grounds on the Bow River and Cascade Pond on the Lake Minnewanka Loop (p 22), which both offer fire pits, covered eating areas and washrooms with running water. Try a stunning river view at Central Park (p 25). Looking for something more rustic? Try Upper Bankhead (p 23) or Two Jack Lake (p 23). Bon Appetite! -KATE BARKER
Farther along Hwy 40 is Wedge Pond, with a short hike and a picnic site. 20 km/12 mi further, Hwy 40 enters Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, just before the Grizzly Day Use Area.
Kananaskis Lakes Rd, 16 km/10 mi, is a scenic drive. Further along are Elkwood and Boulton Creek Campgrounds. The area is a wetlands habitat. There are walking trails and fishing at Upper Kananaskis Lake.
Turn left at Smith-Dorrien/Spray Tr to head back to Canmore. Be advised: most of the 60 km/37 mi road is not paved and is usually rough. The road follows Spray Lakes for 20 km/12.5 mi before descending to Canmore.
ICEFIELDS PARKWAY
230 km/143 mi route connecting Lake Louise with Jasper. The Icefields Parkway/Hwy 93N traces the Continental Divide and showcases glaciers, rugged peaks and wildlife. Find picnic sites, camping, hiking and climbing en route.
Access the parkway from Hwy 1 west of Lake Louise. Hector Lake, 16 km/10 mi, offers Mt Balfour and Waputik Range views.
At Bow Lake, 33 km/21 mi, Bow Glacier meltwaters cascade down massive cliffs. Left is the Crowfoot Glacier that was once shaped like a crow’s three toes. Num-Ti-Jah Lodge offers lodging and dining.
Bow Summit, 40 km/25 mi, is the highest point on the Parkway at 2068 m/6875 ft. The viewpoint overlooks Peyto Lake, which is known for its wolf's head shape. Interpretive signs give insights on mountain guide
ALL CREATURES GREAT & SMALL
There are many creatures, great and small, who call Banff National Park and the surrounding areas home. From tiny and curious ground squirrels to large and iconic bears, the mountains are teeming with wildlife. When visiting their home, be a responsible houseguest. Don’t litter, use the approved garbage bins found at trailheads and respect all trail closures. Looking for more information? Check out why wildlife need Room to Roam on p 16! -KATE BARKER
Bill Peyto and history of the lake. Continue to Mistaya Canyon and Saskatchewan River Crossing, 77 km/48 mi, where there’s gas, food and lodging near the confluence of the Saskatchewan, Howse and Mistaya Rivers.
Detour 45 km/28 mi east on Hwy 11 to the staging area for Rockies Heli Canada (p 37) tours and heli-hikes. The town of Rocky Mountain House is 135 km/84 mi further east.
Back on the Parkway, the Weeping Wall, 103 km/64 mi cliffs are streaked with waterfalls fed by Cirrus Mountain meltwaters. Walk the moderate Parker Ridge trail, 116 km/72 mi for Saskatchewan Glacier views.
A highlight of the parkway is the Columbia Icefield, 127 km/79 mi, that covers 215 sq km/83 sq mi and is over 250 m/800 ft deep. Its meltwaters flow west to the Pacific, north to the Arctic, and east to Hudson’s Bay. This hydrological apex is one of two in the world, the other is in Siberia. Six major glaciers flow from the icefield. At the Athabasca Glacier, you can walk to the glacier toe, take a guided ice walk or ride an allterrain Ice Explorer to the glacier headwall (p 35). Across the road, the Glacier Discovery Centre has lodging, dining and gift shops. Take the shuttle to the cliff edge Glacier Skywalk. From the Centre it’s 103 km/64 mi further to Jasper, route description on p 73.
KANANASKIS LAKES TRAIL TO HIGHWOOD PASS
Closed to June 15. Follow Hwy 40 south past Kananaskis Lakes Tr, along Canada’s highest paved road.
From the King Creek picnic site, rise to Elpoca Viewpoint, a picturesque picnic area with a short walk down a steep bank to Opal Falls. Farther along, Gap Mountain rises to the east.
Past Little Highwood Pass picnic site is Elbow Pass picnic area and the easy trail to Elbow Lake. Walk farther to the alpine meadows and Rae Glacier. Next is Rock Glacier with a 10 min interpretive walk explaining the huge slowly moving rock pile. Stop at Highwood Meadows picnic site, which has an interpretive wetlands boardwalk and access to the Ptarmigan Cirque trail. Take the steep path to the ridge-ringed wildflower meadow.
At 2206 m/7239 ft Highwood Pass, you’re 105 km/63 mi south of Hwy 1. Return the way you came or continue to Longview and the foothills.
LAKE LOUISE & AREA 57 km/35 mi west of Banff is Lake Louise, a charming resort village established during the construction of the railway.
Exit Hwy 1 and turn left onto Lake Louise Dr. The first right leads to the Lake Louise Visitor Centre. The centre has geological and historical exhibits and is beside Samson Mall, which has shops and restaurants.
There are walking trails on both sides of the Bow River. Continue 5 km/3 mi on Lake Louise Dr to the lake and Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a grand hotel built in the late 1800s by the Canadian Pacific Railway.
The lakeshore promenade offers renowned views of Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier. The Lake Agnes Tea House is a 3.5 km/2.2 mi hike from the Chateau.
Heading back toward the village, turn right on Moraine Lake Rd and drive 12 km/7 mi to Moraine Lake. This road is closed Oct-May. A trail leads to the top of the rock pile for the best view of the lake and surrounding Valley of the Ten Peaks. Several stunning walks begin from the café at Moraine Lake Lodge.
Backtrack over Hwy 1 to Whitehorn Rd and the Lake Louise Gondola (p 38) for views, food, hiking and displays.
LAKE MINNEWANKA LOOP
16 km/10 mi circuit that accesses Lake Minnewanka, the largest lake in Banff National Park. There are historic sites, picnic areas and trails.
From downtown, take Banff Ave north past Hwy 1 to Cascade Ponds, a picnic spot with shelters and fire pits.
Continue clockwise to the Lower Bankhead interpretive trail with coal mine ruins. Upper Bankhead, 2.9 km/1.8 mi, is formerly the site of miners’ homes.
Walk the 4.2 km/2.6 mi C Level Cirque Trail past mine ruins and Lake Minnewanka viewpoint to a basin on Cascade Mountain.
At Lake Minnewanka, 2 km/1.2 mi, you can fish, rent boats or take a cruise. Scuba dive in the lake to see a submerged dam and town remnants.
On the north shore is the Lake Minnewanka Trail, popular for hiking but closed to cyclists and dogs from July 10 to Sept 15.
Continue south to Two Jack Lake or detour left to Johnson Lake for a picnic, lakeside trails and swimming. The north section of the road is closed Nov to Apr to protect wildlife.
BIKING ROUTES
Lake Minnewanka Loop (left) and Bow Valley Parkway (p 21) are good road routes. Bike 'n' Hike Shuttle allows for one way rides. See p 32 for rentals.
BANFF LEGACY TRAIL Easy paved pathway that spans 22 km/14 mi from the Banff Park East Gate to the Bow Valley Parkway. The trail also links the 4.5 km/3 mi from the Banff Park East Gate to the Travel Alberta Info Centre in Canmore.
BILL MILNE BIKE PATH 9.7 km/6 mi easy trail that crosses the Kananaskis River. From Kananaskis Village ride the paved route down the bench to Wedge Pond.
CANMORE NORDIC CENTRE
World class mountain bike trails vary in length and difficulty. There are paved routes, engineered hardcore single-tracks and a skills park. Trail Sports (p 32) offers rentals and lessons on-site. GOAT CREEK TRAIL 18 km/11 mi moderate backcountry route from Canmore to Banff on old fire roads. Mostly downhill with creek crossings. Begin 9 km/5.6 mi west of Canmore via Spray Lakes Rd and end at the Fairmont Banff Springs.
HIGH ROCKIES TRAIL 82 km/50 mi moderate trail over rolling terrain. Access at Goat Creek, Driftwood Buller, Black Prince or Kananaskis Lakes. Trail runs from Goat Creek to Elk Pass,
SUNDANCE TRAIL 2 km/1.2 mi easy paved route beside the Bow River. The trail starts at the Cave and Basin, the birthplace of Banff National Park. An easy 1 km/0.6 mi climb ends at a picnic area. Walk 20 min to Sundance Canyon, where bikes are not allowed.
THREE SISTERS VILLAGE TRAIL
6 km/4 mi easy, mostly paved trail along the Bow River with mountain views. The trail starts south of Canmore’s Bow River bridge and goes east to Stewart Creek Golf Course. TRAMLINE TRAIL 5 km/3 mi moderate trail follows the 1913 tram route from the Lake Louise railway station. Cross Louise Creek to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
VERMILION LAKES 5 km/3 mi easy paved trail along three lakes to wildlife wetlands. Access from Banff townsite.
SPOTS TO SWIM
Looking for somewhere to take a dip? What better way to enjoy summer in the Rocky Mountains than swimming outdoors in a beautiful setting. Johnson Lake (left) and Two Jack Lake (left) in Banff offer large expanses of water to splash around in with a majestic mountain backdrop. Quarry Lake (p 25) in Canmore is a warmer lake, great for low cliff-jumping and picnics. Lower Kananaskis Lake is often warm enough for swimming during the summer. -JASMINE HOLMES
HIKING TRAILS
BARRIER LAKE TRAILS
2.3 km/1.4 mi easy route from the Kananaskis Field Station. Two joined loops pass WWII POW camp remains. Bikes not permitted.
BOURGEAU LAKE/HARVEY PASS
9.5 km/6 mi moderate to difficult trail that starts 13 km/8 mi west of Norquay Rd. Climb from Wolverine Creek Valley to the lake.
CHESTER LAKE 4 km/2.5 mi moderate switchback trail up an old logging road to the cliff-flanked lake. Stray Lakes Tr, 20 km/12mi from Kananaskis Lakes Tr. Bikes permitted on first 2 km/1.2 mi only.
NEW AND IMPROVED
The Lake Louise Visitor Centre has undergone an extensive renovation! The new building is designed to improve traffic flow, increase accessibility and separate the retail space from the information desk. New information panels provide self-service options for visitors. As always, Parks Canada staff are on hand to answer any of your questions and representatives from Banff & Lake Louise Tourism are around to help you plan the perfect
vacation. -KATE BARKER
CONSOLATION LAKES
3 km/1.9 mi easy walk from Moraine Lake to two Consolation Lakes. Scramble the rockslide for the best view. Bikes not permitted.
ELBOW LAKE/RAE GLACIER
4 km/2.5 mi moderate trail to Elbow Lake, a popular spot for camping and fishing. Follow the south side of the lake to a Rae Glacier view. Access from Hwy 40, 62 km/38.5 mi south of Hwy 1.
GRASSI LAKES 2 km/1.2 mi easy trail that rises to an impressive cliff face. The trail levels to clear, springfed lakes framed by mountains. Rock stairs cut by Lawrence Grassi lead to a bridge over Canmore Creek. Start beyond the Canmore Nordic Centre. Bikes not permitted.
GROTTO CANYON TRAIL
4 km/2.5 mi easy hike to Grotto Falls and beyond to a cave. See rock climbers and Indigenous pictographs. Avoid during high water. Bikes not permitted.
JOHNSON LAKE TRAIL
3 km/1.9 mi easy loop circles the lake through old-growth Douglas fir forest. See iconic mountain vistas and possible wildlife. Bikes not permitted.
JOHNSTON CANYON
1.1 km/0.7 mi easy interpretive trail. Walk on catwalks anchored to the walls. See the Lower Falls through a natural rock arch before continuing to the Upper Falls and the Ink Pots springs. Bikes not permitted.
LAKE AGNES TEAHOUSE TRAIL
3.5 km/2.2 mi moderate walk to a lovely hanging valley above Lake Louise. The trail rises from the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise to Mirror Lake. A short, steep hike by a waterfall leads to the Lake Agnes Tea House (p 63). You can continue to Beehive Moountain lookouts.
LAKE LOUISE SHORE WALK
2 km/1.2 mi easy trail along the shoreline. Start at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Bikes not permitted. MARBLE CANYON 0.8 km/0.5 mi easy trail that follows glacier-fed Tokumm Creek from Hwy 93S over seven footbridges. Views of the narrow limestone and dolomite chasm, up to 39 m/128 ft deep. Bikes not permitted.
MARL LAKE 3.6 km/2.2 mi easy paved loop through lodgepole pines with lakeside viewing platforms. Start at Elkwood Campground off Kananaskis Lakes Tr, 56 km/35 mi south of Hwy 1. Bikes not permitted.
MARSH BOARDWALK
0.5 km/0.3 mi easy interpretive loop that winds through wetlands with abundant wildlife. Start at the Cave and Basin near downtown Banff. Continue to Discovery Boardwalk, 4 km/2.5 mi, to the cave vent and hot springs with colourful algae. Bikes not permitted. Continue along the Bow River to Sundance Canyon, 4.3 km/2.7 mi. Bikes are permitted on the paved portion of the trail.
PARADISE VALLEY/GIANT STEPS
10.3 km/6.4 mi moderate trail that rises to Lake Annette with views of Mt Temple and Horseshoe Glacier. Go right to the Giant Steps Staircase waterfall. Access 2.5 km/1.5 mi along Moraine Lake Rd near Lake Louise.
PLAIN OF SIX GLACIERS
5.3 km/3.3 mi moderate walk starting at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Climb to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse via the Highline Trail. En route, see quartzite cliffs, a terminal moraine left by receding glaciers and the ice cave by the glacier's toe. Bikes not permitted.
TROLL FALLS 1.8 km/1.1 mi easy walk by forests and meadows to falls. Start at the Stoney Trailhead off the Nakiska/Kananaskis Village access road. Bikes not permitted.
TUNNEL MOUNTAIN 2.3 km/1.4 mi moderate trail that rises through forests with views of the Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course and Bow Valley peaks and rivers. Watch for rock climbers. Access from St Julien Rd parking lot. Bikes not permitted.
UPPER KANANASKIS LAKE
16 km/10 mi easy, scenic loop around the lake. A 3 km/1.9 mi spur from the south portion climbs to Rawson Lake by towering Mt Sarrail. Start at Kananaskis Lakes Tr, 51 km/32 mi south of Hwy 1. Bikes not permitted.
PICNIC SITES
BOW LAKE 33 km/21 mi north of Lake Louise on the Icefields Parkway. Stunning views of Crowfoot Glacier.
CASCADE PONDS Across Hwy 1 from the town of Banff. Pretty spot with shelters, fire pits, views and trails.
CENTRAL PARK Downtown Banff by the Bow River. Large grassy space with gazebo for music. Riverside trails.
JOHNSON LAKE On the Minnewanka Loop. Walking trails and swimming.
LAKE MINNEWANKA Views of the region’s longest lake. Snack bar, cruise, boat rentals available.
QUARRY LAKE Family favourite with a sandy beach, swimming, trails and mountain views.
RIVERSIDE PARK Bow River near downtown Canmore. Mountain views and multi-use trails.
WEDGE POND Hwy 40, 34 km/21 mi south of Hwy 1. A trail circles the pond with interpretive signs and Wedge Mountain views.
CORRAL CREEK South of Lake Louise via the Bow Valley Pkwy. Hidden gem by a stream with fire pits and Mt Temple view.
TOWNSITE WALKS
BANFF WALKING TOUR Begin at Central Park. Enjoy a riverside picnic or visit the Banff Park Museum with 100-year-old animal displays.
Stroll north along the Bow River Promenade past the Banff Canoe Club (p 34). Continue to the Fenland Loop Trail that follows Echo Creek and the Vermilion Lakes wetlands animal habitat.
THE ROAD AHEAD
The structured re-opening of the Provincial and National Parks is dependent on many things, some of which are unforeseeable. What’s available today may change tomorrow and more restrictions may come into place if deemed necessary for public safety. Find out what's happening before making the drive to the mountains. See what’s open, what's accessible and what's closed online from Parks Canada, the Town of Banff, or the Town of Canmore. -KATE BARKER
Return to Central Park and cross the Bow River Bridge. By the Parks Administration Building are Cascades of Time Gardens.
Return to the river. Go right/east for a river walk to Bow Falls and historic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel.
Or, go left/west and walk Sundance Trail along the river to the Cave & Basin with historic exhibits, boardwalks, cave vent and a warm water marsh.
En route is the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum, the Recreation Grounds, and Warner Stables.
Free maps for self-guided Banff townsite tours are available at the Banff Visitor Centre.
Banff Historic Walking Tour leads you to 57 homes from 1887, museums, churches and public buildings with interpretive plaques. Banff Culture Walk is a tour of the galleries, museums and historic sites.
CANMORE WALKING TOUR
Discover Canmore’s history and natural beauty with a downtown tour. Start at the Northwest Mounted Police Barracks, 609 Main St. This 1893 log cabin, tearoom and heritage garden was restored to its 1921 state with exhibits on the NWMP.
Head south on Main St to Ralph Connor Memorial United Church built in 1891 by Charles W Gordon, Canada’s first bestselling author under the pen-name Ralph Connor.
Turn right at 7 Ave to find the Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre, with exhibits on the town’s history, including a virtual reality exhibit of a coal mine. One block west is artsPlace, a performance, art, workshop and movie venue.
Backtrack and go south on 7 Ave to 7 St and the 1913 Miners Union Hall, now a community and cultural centre. Return to Main St and go west to its end at Riverside Park for a stroll north to the 1919 CPR Trestle Bridge.