Sights

FOSSIL FINDS

EDITOR’S PICK

Billions of years ago, there was a shallow sea in the middle of what is now North America. During this time, flowing rivers brought sediments and carbonbased life into the sea, which settled on the bottom. These sediments slowly built up and compressed into layers, eventually creating sedimentary rock. In places like Johnston Canyon, the sharp canyon walls show off the fossilized life of these little sea creatures. “A billion years of world history are all stacked up like a story book,” says Matt Luttrell, a certified guide in Banff, “There are different pages of the story book visible in different areas.” To learn more, book an icewalk with Discover Banff Tours (p 38) or White Mountain Adventures (p 38). -KB

WILDLIFE ROAM

Have you seen the strikingly decorated ROAM Public Transit (p 39) buses? They feature images of iconic wildlife that actually live and roam in the area. All of the photos were taken by local photographers who work to protect these animals and the wilderness they inhabit. Artists on ROAM busses include Jason Leo Bantle, Brandon T. Brown, Andrew Hardingham, John E. Marriott and Michael Wilson. -TJ

BOMBS AWAY!

Did you know? Parks Canada and various provincial parks perform avalanche risk control on mountain roads. Authorities close the roads during these times for everyone’s safety. There is no avalanche risk control in the backcountry, however, so anyone venturing in these areas must be prepared for all conditions. Check the avalanche risk bulletin for a given area by visiting avalanche.ca.

DRIVING TOURS

BOW VALLEY PARKWAY This 48 km/30 mi route between Banff and Lake Louise is more leisurely and more scenic than the Trans-Canada. To protect wildlife, the speed limit is 60 kph/40 mph. Watch for elk, bighorn sheep and deer on the side of the road. From Banff, go 5.5 km/3.4 mi west on the Trans-Canada to the Bow Valley Parkway entrance.

At Johnston Canyon, 15 km/9.3 mi, walk the interpretive trail along cliff anchored catwalks to icefalls. The path is slippery. Consider renting ice cleats or taking a guided tour.

Moose Meadows, 17 km/10.5 mi, was Silver City from 1880 to 1887 with five mines, six hotels and 2000 residents. No silver was found. The claim was ‘salted’ to attract investors.

Down the road, unmistakable Castle Mountain’s crenelated cliffs were formed when older rock was thrust up and over younger rock. The Parkway climbs to Castle Mountain Viewpoint, 26 km/16 mi, with expansive views of the whole valley.

CELLPHONE PHOTOSHOOT

We asked professional photographer Sanjay Chauhan how to take professional looking photos, right from your phone. Chauhan says paying attention to light, composition and dramatic cloud cover can make every photo better. On a phone, make sure your subject is in focus by tapping on the screen. For action shots, burst mode allows you to get the exact moment you want. Use your camera’s grid to make sure your horizon is straight. Most importantly, wipe your lens before snapping that shot to get rid of any pocket fluff! The image above was taken by Chauhan with an iPhone 11 Pro. -KATE BARKER

Farther along, Morant’s Curve is a lookout with Bow River and railway views named for Canadian Pacific Railway photographer Nicholas Morant. The Bow Valley Parkway rejoins Hwy 1 at Lake Louise.

ICEFIELDS PARKWAY The spectacular 230 km/143 mi Icefields Parkway, Hwy 93, connects Lake Louise with Jasper. This route traces the Continental Divide and showcases wildlife and 100 glaciers on rugged peaks. Access the Parkway from Hwy 1 just west of Lake Louise.

Going north, Hector Lake, 16 km/10 mi, has scenic views of Mt Balfour and Waputik Range.

Above Bow Lake, 33 km/21 mi, see Bow Glacier. To the left is Crowfoot Glacier, once shaped like a crow’s three toes, the glacier has melted and separated into different shapes. Bow Lake is popular for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Num-Ti-Jah lodge is closed in winter. Bow Summit, 40 km/25 mi, is popular with backcountry skiers. It's the high point on the Icefields Parkway at 2068 m/6875 ft. On the trail, there’s a viewpoint for Peyto Lake, which is shaped like a wolf’s head. Signs tell of Englishman Bill Peyto, who was an 1890s mountain guide and one of the original park wardens.

Continue to Mistaya Canyon and Saskatchewan River Crossing, 77 km/48 mi, Here, Hwy 11 branches off the Parkway and leads to the Rockies Heli Canada (p 36) base.

Back on Hwy 93, the distinctive cliffs of Weeping Wall, 103 km/64 mi, are streaked by icefalls fed by the meltwaters of Cirrus Mountain. This is a popular spot for ice climbers.

The moderate 3 km/1.8 mi trail up Parker Ridge, 116 km/72 mi, is popular for ski touring and offers unique views of the Saskatchewan Glacier. The highlight of the Parkway is the Columbia Icefield, 127 km/79 mi. The icefield is 215 sq km/83 sq mi and up to 365 m/1200 ft deep. Its meltwaters flow west to the Pacific, north to the Arctic and east to Hudson’s Bay and the Atlantic. This hydrological apex is one of two in the world. The other is in Siberia. Six major glaciers flow from the Icefield. It’s 103 km/64 mi farther to Jasper, see p 73 for route details.

LAKE LOUISE & AREA To reach Lake Louise village, drive 57 km/35 mi west of Banff. Exit Hwy 1 and turn left onto Lake Louise Dr. Turn right to the Lake Louise Visitor Centre with exhibits on geology and history. Samson Mall (p 53) has shops and restaurants. There are walking trails on both sides of the Bow River.

Continue 5 km/3 mi on Lake Louise Dr to the lake and the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a grand hotel built in the late 1800s by the Canadian Pacific Railway. The lakeshore walk offers world

LITTLE TREE

Canmore is also called Châ Ûpchîchîyen Kudebi, which means “shooting little spruce tree”. The story goes that the Stoney people were camping in the area when four of their horses were stolen. The Stoneys noticed them and gave chase on foot. One Stoney hit an intruder with an arrow, but in the morning realized he actually shot a little spruce tree! -KB

famous views of Victoria Glacier and Lake Louise, formerly called Horâ Juthin Îmne or Lake of the Little Fishes. Sleigh rides, skating, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are available for visitors.

Return to the village, cross over Hwy 1 and drive Whitehorn Rd to Lake Louise Ski Resort. Even non-skiers enjoy dining and sightseeing in the impressive log-built day lodge.

LAKE MINNEWANKA LOOP The 16 km/10 mi route accesses the largest lake in Banff National Park, as well as historic sites and ski trails. The north section of the road is closed Nov to May.

From downtown, take Banff Ave north under Hwy 1 to Cascade Ponds. Turn right and drive alongside Two Jack Lake to Lake Minnewanka. Enjoy the 1.5 km/0.9 mi walking trail to Stewart Canyon and cross-country skiing routes on Cascade Fire Road.

TOWNSITE WALKS

BANFF CULTURE WALK Self-guided walk to art galleries, museums and cultural sites. Free Explore Banff Arts & Culture guide and map available online for use on cellphones and tablets.

BANFF HISTORICAL WALKING TOUR

Self-guided 25 block, 1.5 hour route to 42 heritage residences dating back to 1887, museums, churches, public buildings and a cemetery. Blue interpretive plaques flag sites. Free guide and map available online for a personalized guided tour experience.

BANFF WALKING TOUR Begin in Central Park where Banff Ave meets the Bow River at the Banff Park Museum National Historic Site, which features railway pagoda architecture and Victorian animal displays.

Stroll the Bow River Promenade north 2 km/1.2 mi to the Fenland Loop Trail along Echo Creek and further to the Vermilion Lake wetlands.

Return to Central Park and cross the Bow River Bridge. Go left for the 1.2 km/0.8 mi river walk to Bow Falls and the historic Castle in the RockiesFairmont Banff Springs hotel.

Or go right after crossing the bridge and walk Sundance Trail by the river 1.5 km/0.9 mi to the Cave & Basin National Historic Site and the surrounding trails. En route is fort-like Buffalo Nations Museum with displays on the late 1800s plains Nations and their traditional use of the Canadian Rockies.

CANMORE HISTORICAL WALKING

TOUR Self-guided Historical Downtown Walking Tour. See churches, police barracks, mines, museums and residences. Pick up a free guide/map at Canmore Museum, NWMP Barracks and visitor centres.

CANMORE WALKING TOUR Discover Canmore’s history and natural beauty with a downtown tour. Start at the Northwest Mounted Police Barracks, 609 Main St, an 1893 log cabin, tea room and heritage garden restored to its 1921 state with exhibits on the NWMP. Head south on Main St to Ralph Connor Memorial United Church built in 1891 by Presbyterian minister Charles W Gordon, Canada’s first bestselling author under the pen-name Ralph Connor.

Turn right at 7 Ave to find the Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre with exhibits on the town’s history and geology. Try their virtual reality mine tour and listen to miners tell stories about their time in early Canmore. One block west is artsPlace, a performance, art, workshop and movie venue.

Backtrack and go south on 7 Ave to 7 St and the 1913 Miners Union Hall, which is now a community and cultural centre. Also on 7 St is St Michael’s Anglican Church, built in 1893 with pitched roof, belfry and spire.

Return to Main St and go west to its end at Riverside Park for a Bow River stroll north to the 1919 CPR Trestle Bridge.

CAVE & BASIN TRAILS Discovery Boardwalk, 0.4 km/0.3 mi to the cave vent, hot springs with colourful plants and aquatic wildlife like the Banff Springs snail that is exclusive to this area. The Marsh Boardwalk, 0.5 km/0.3 mi, spans an almost equatorial ecosystem, even in winter, of hot springs, ferns, birds and tropical fish.

FENLAND LOOP TRAIL 2.1 km/1.3 mi peaceful interpretive trail accessible from the town of Banff. Walk through old growth spruce trees and 40 Mile Creek with views of Vermilion Lakes. Trailhead on Mt Norquay Rd.

POLICEMAN’S CREEK This Canmore trail is 0.7 km/0.4 mi, with longer options available. Flowing waters beside the trail never freeze. Start on the Main St Bridge by the NWMP Barracks. Go south along the boardwalk towards Spring Creek or walk north to link with Canmore’s many Bow River trails.

JOHNSTON CANYON 1.1 km/0.7 mi to Lower Falls; 2.7 km/1.7 mi to Upper Falls. Walk along walkways anchored to limestone walls. Natural tunnel to Lower Falls. Canyon rim to Upper Falls. Ice cleats and hiking poles recommended. Guided tours available. Start: Bow Valley Pkwy 22 km/14 mi west of Banff.

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