SPRING EDITION 2019, VOL. 9
Tea is Trending: Butterfly Blue, Matcha
2019's
BIG BRUNCH with Baker's Bacon
& Harney
& Vegas!
SPRING'S BEST INGREDIENTS
are from the
PNW
the
fate
foiegras
SPRING AWAKENING The Re-Opening of
and
San Ysidro Ranch COVER: Parmesan Crusted Halibut by Chef Matt Johnson from San Ysidro Ranch, CA.
OF
Oysters, Caviar... Michael Ginor
with Chef Matt Johnson
clean&
green CW's NEW
Plant-based Foods
AND:
ATELIER CRENN
BEE LOCAL
By the Book
Di Stefano Cheese MAE FINE FOODS
TWIN SISTERS CREAMERY
Spring is Blooming By Bruce Luong Executive Vice President West Coast and Canada
SPRING CAN NOT COME SOON ENOUGH. I don’t remember seeing this much rain in years. I think it’s safe to say that we have enough water for this summer. Spring is such a great time for new menus. With the abundance of seasonal seafood, new products, and fresh produce, it is sure to make for some great dishes. With the start to the new season, comes the new addition of a great company. I’d like to give a warm welcome to the Bassian Farms family. I am excited to be sharing our products and knowledge to help make us the top protein distributor in Northern California. I am also excited about the launch of our new Plant-Based Category and the growing abundance of ‘clean and green,’ ingredients we are proud to have available. Now more than ever, our mission is to partner with you, our esteemed customers, in offering your menus the most outstanding ingredients under the (very welcomed) sun. Happy spring season everyone. Read more on page 14
2 | CWmag.com
The Chefs’ Warehouse Magazine, West Coast SPRING EDITION 2019
32
FEATURES
9
14
8
Clean & Green
Atelier Crenn: The Edge of Spring
2019’s Best Brunch Trends
CW prepares its new Plant-based foods category with highlights including, Bluebird Farms, Fora Butter, Maine Sea Kelp, and more.
24
Meet Jacob Fraijo, Baker of Dominique Crenn's newly Three-Michelin starred stunner.
Give your Easter & Mother's Day Menus a Spring polish with these ascending, trending ingredients like Baker's Bacon.
Tea Trends & Harney’s Blue Tea, Matcha, and Turmeric lead tea’s biggest trends, and Harney & Sons' latest offerings.
4
Mae Fine Foods:
Executive Pastry Chef Lance Whipple, The Four Seasons AZ, sweet talks Mae Fine Food Bonbons
34
By The Book! Inside Di Stefano Cheeses, meet Mimmo Bruno, the man behind the best Burrata
DEPARTMENTS
28
Best of the Pacific Northwest
26
Spring Awakening in Santa Barbara
4
What's New Las Vegas
16
Luxury: Oysters, Caviar & Foie Gras
Meet Ben Jacobsen & Lindsay Slevin from PNW's best
Lindsay Slevin and her commitment to raw milk
Eataly, Mordeo and The Venetian's Canyon Ranch
Including an exclusive interview with Michael Ginor
March – June 2019 | 3
What’s New Las Vegas by Kelli Colaco
CANYON RANCH (SPA+FITNESS) at THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS
Speaking to Executive Chef Peter Ghione about health and wellness on the culinary front is like opening a fascinating treasure trove of life-saving enlightenment. WITH 25 YEARS EXPERIENCE cooking professionally, Ghione’s bio runs the gamut. At the heart of the matter, Ghione’s chief mission has become striving to help people use food to fight disease, especially the big C. He began researching food’s ability to heal when a large venue he worked for made the rather sudden decision to go all organic. After diving into research on the subject, Ghione found that what intrigued him the most was research regarding how food gets processed in the body and how it can
-Executive Chef Pete Ghione
not only nourish but to actually heal.
with anti-inflammatories, facts regarding the USA's over-consumption of dairy, the “The Dirty Dozen” (list of most pesticide-laden fruits and vegetable), its counter list, “The Clean Fifteen, the populaces over-obsession with ‘organic,’” (“Organic doesn’t mean healthy!”), how adding black pepper allows the body to absorb the many benefits of Turmeric, a myriad of reasons why sugar is the
As fate would have it, he was hired as a private chef to create and prepare a low glycemic diet for a client who had suffered three bouts of lung cancer and endured six months of chemotherapy. The man had been given a 98% chance of death and only five years to live. Since eating Chef Ghione’s tailored menu, which combined ingredients that are nutrient-rich, low in sugar and high in natural anti-inflammatories twice a day for three years, the once near death client is now thriving, cancer free. “My analogy is this if you surround yourself with real, quality people, you know will have great conversation. Food is like that. If you eat real, quality food, your body is going to run better and more efficiently. It’s pretty simple.”
Chef Ghione’s ability to articulate the incredible benefits of foods packed
see Ghione's Health-Bowls on page 8 and get his Insightful health-promoting ingredient-tips with the full article:
CWmag.com/CanyonRanch devil of the food chain, and how making the right food choices is the fundamental key to feeling good, looking good and longevity, is something absolutely book worthy. Seriously, Executive Chef Ghione should write a book, first about the lives he has saved and then about how he can help us save our own lives via what we eat (and don’t eat.) Ghione’s “Health and Wellness” signature culinary style, frequently highlighted on television (Discovery and Travel Channel, plus dozens of TV News features) and high profile magazines such as Esquire, is embodied in the Venetian’s
Photo by Sandra Dahdah
4 | CWmag.com
trifecta of varying venues which he oversees and creates menus for. CR CREAT, located in the Palazzo Grand Canal Shoppes, offers epicurean take away options. Canyon Ranch Cafe is known for being one the healthiest artisan options in town.
Mordeo Boutique Wine Bar Off The Strip, Las Vegas THE “WORD ON THE STREET” is there’s a lot of new food-magic happening just two miles off the Las Vegas Strip, where Spring Mountain Road meets Las Vegas Boulevard, in an area known as China Town. There, within the seemingly unromantic, shopping mall-infused environment, foodies in the know feast on some of the most delicious, trésauthentic Raku, Tapas, Thai food, New American Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine happening in the U.S. Mordeo Boutique Wine Bar, is the new, sexy, off-thestrip, brainchild, of Chef Khai Vu (owner of popular District One Kitchen Bar). Inviting, with a modern/
Spring in Las Vegas overflows with new venues, ingredients, and opportunities to celebrate. In early March, skies are blue and the temperature rises to the mid-80’s almost every day. This is when Las Vegas ignites. There’s plenty to do in Las Vegas. From patio seats overlooking the Bellagio fountains, to relaxing by the pool, all the while making plans out on or off the strip to visit one of the city’s 2,300 restaurants, featuring bounties of clean and fresh ingredients. From English smoked salmon to seasonal organic artichokes and cold pasta dishes. From new restaurants like Catch, Nomad and Mordeo, to near planetary food destinations like Eataly and Canyon Ranch at The Venetian, more than ever, Las Vegas is blossoming with new ways to celebrate life.
contemporary design, Mordeo (meaning, small bites) seduces with Spanish and Latin inspirations with a touch of Japanese flair. The morsels getting everyone excited are Mordeo’s nightly Pintxos offerings complemented by eclectic yet approachable wines, sake, and sangrias, every night at Happy Hour (5-7 pm). Known as complex finger foods, Pintxos originated in bars and taverns throughout the old Basque Country. Mordeo’s Pintxos change seasonally which allows Chef Khai and his chefs to thrive creatively year round. Khai adds, “These days, everyone wants to try multiple things and Pintxos provide this. Dining is changing, and guests often want to move around, experience exciting combinations without feeling so heavy. Pintxos provide this opportunity.”
John Polehemus, CW Vice President, Las Vegas
Born in Vietnam, and relocating to the U.S. at age 11, Chef Khai discovered his passion for Pintxos while traveling to Barcelona. He shared, “I get all of my concepts from my travels. I have to love it. And then put my own twist on it. I never offer anything on my menu that I don’t deeply love.”
Get The Full Tasty Morsel of Chef Khai Vu's Mordeo: CWmag.com/Mordeo
CW's John Polehemus and CW Mag's Editor-in-Chief Kelli Colaco, FFS, ’19.
continued on next page.
March – June 2019 | 5
What’s New Las Vegas
Eataly Las Vegas
THE NEW EATALY, OPENING IN LAS VEGAS within the massive Park, MGM, marks the 6th Eataly location in the U.S. CW is very excited to support Eataly’s exuberant offering of the most authentic Italian experience to the people of Las Vegas, including both visitors and locals. In keeping with Eataly’s bespoke venue themes (a piece of history, an influential person, an idea, i.e Eataly Roma is an homage to beauty, Eataly Smeraldo in Milano to music, Eataly Istanbul to history etc.) they have decided to dedicate Eataly Las Vegas to “Anything is possible.” And the reason is clear. Anything is possible in the city of Las Vegas where, in the middle of the desert, an entire city has been built, one that attracts millions of visitors
that can order true Italian gelato that has been made in the middle of a dry, arid desert, eat street food from Rome, fresh pasta from Piemonte, and enjoy wine from every single region in Italy, all under a single roof. Offering two restaurants, La Pizza E La Pasta and Manzo, three bars, Gran Caffe Milano, an education center, a chef’s table, a market (Cucina del mercato), a new counter to table concept including: La Salumeria, Cheesemonger, La Pizzeria, La Pasta Fresca, La Pescheria, Fishmonger & Kitchen, Eataly LV is a planetary celebration of all things authentic, artisanal Italiano! What could be more thrilling and new for CW’s Las Vegas Region than all the magnificent splendors Eatlay, Las Vegas will bring to the vast “communal table.” Buon Appetito!
6 | CWmag.com
The New & Notable. MadMac/Crescendo "Classic Collection" Macarons Meet our "NEW", co-branded classic collection, from Crescendo/MadMac, and created with Chef Francois Mellet, includes a special addition of white chocolate crème brulee of 6 flavors and 48 Macarons. Handmade in their state-of-the-art facility with fresh ingredients and high-quality California almonds. Their unique tray design minimizes breakage.
Nielsen-Massey
Grazin’ Girl
Ewereka Cheese
from Valley Ford Cheese
from Central Coast Creamery
Rose Water & Orange Blossom Water
Grazin’ Girl Gorgonzola Style has a rustic, basket weave exterior and an interior with notes of sweet cream and blue-streak patches throughout. Superb in salad and sauces or drizzled with Bee Local honey!
Aged for 3 months, Ewereka is a unique cheddar made entirely of sheep’s milk. A distinct sweetness up front, followed by a pleasant creamy finish and just the right amount of cheddary tang.
It's the season for floral! From cocktails to pastry, to global inspired foods and beyond, Nielsen Massey's quality range of flavorings are perfect for all your spring's finishing touches.
Rustic Bakery Crackers
There’s a reason Rustic Bakery (based in Marin County) is the go-to accompaniment for fine cheese: their perfect texture and delectable crunch. Made from the highest quality, local ingredients.
Hay Straws Ditch the plastic straw and say HAY! to our new biodegradable, all-natural, gluten-free straws. HAY! Straws are made from the stem of the wheat plant.
Valrhona Strawberry Inspiration Made with freeze-dried strawberry powder, this highly concentrated product behaves just like chocolate (it melts, can be a couverture, etc.), and shines through in every application.
March – June 2019 | 7
SPRING 2019 ’s BIGGEST BRUNCH TRENDS Up the Ante on Your Easter & Mother's Day Menus
SPRING IS A TERRIFIC TIME for the restaurant industry as the warmer days inspire lighter, brighter recipes. The season’s Easter and Mother’s Day menus provide perfect vehicles to try out new ideas in front of what is certain to be captive audiences. This year, we checked in with the leading voices in gourmet food and foodservice to showcase 2019’s biggest brunch trends and the opportunities to turn this season’s ordinary into the extraordinary.
Trend 1:
HEALTH & WELLNESS
Up the Ante of your Easter & Mother’s Day Brunch Menus Bowls by Peter Ghione, Canyon Ranch (Spa+Fitness) The Venetian, Las Vegas
ACCORDING TO FOODSERVICEDIRECTOR.COM, Plant-based options are the #1 brunch trend, with 27% of consumers saying they eat vegetarian protein options or substitutes occasional (from Technomic’s recent Center of Plate Vegetarian Report). Lorena Garcia, Chef/Restaurateur of Chica Las Vegas, states, “It’s not a matter of substituting a meat product for a plant-based option. It’s about using fresh plant-based ingredients to create delicious meals that aren’t just alternatives to meat, but complete dishes on their own.” Trend watchers are seeing Ancient Grain, Protein, and Superfood Bowls with immunity-boosting qualities built off a foundation of quinoa, farro, and brown rice, and sprinkles of sunflower, flax and chia seeds. Beyond vegetarian, nutritional coding and clean-label foods such as all-natural, no added sugar/sweeteners, colors and flavors, hearthealthy, diabetic friendly, and gluten-free, are now de rigeur on menus across America. Beyond goals of nutrition, sustainability and animal welfare, allowing diners to meet their individual dietary needs isn’t just good for our environment, it’s good business.
8 | CWmag.com
Trend 2:
GO GLOBAL! THE “TRENDOLOGISTS” AT SAN FRANCISCO-BASED hospitality consultancy af&co. released their 2019 food predictions, a broad list of the hottest hotel and restaurant trends. Globally-influenced breakfast items were at the top of their list. (Their report also states that Georgian cuisine will be 2019’s Cuisine of the Year). Morning menus are being inspired by global cuisines. Their team has spotted Israeli and Palestinian breakfasts in San Francisco, (eggs any style, Israeli salad, fresh goat cheese, olives, roasted peppers, tahini, matbucha, and assorted fresh breads), Japanese morning grub served at Cassava in San Francisco (Koshihikari rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, wakame with mushroom, roasted miso marinated Chinook salmon, onsen tamago (soft shell poached egg in dashi). The NYTimes has recently showcased the Australian breakfast’s organic porridge with free-range poached eggs with local bacon and roasted broccoli, and all manner of avocado toast, garnished with everything from pickled onions and hoja santa to sesame seeds and shiso leaves. Let your global inspiration go wild! Think Georgian Khapchapuri (the cheese-filled bread boat with a runny egg), regionally inspired spins on the traditional Benedicts, French Quiches, Souffles and Tartines, Italian Frittatas, celebrate tastes of the Mediterranean with Greek Feta, Turkish Garlic Yogurt and smoky butter, head east for an Asian spicy shrimp omelette, and a vegan Indian Kheer grai pudding with cardamom.
Trend 3:
THE INDULGENT TOP IT OFF! Avocado Toast’s 150% rise in popularity (according to emenumonitor.com) inspires a creative canvas for new ways to heap on the indulgent toppings on everything from toast, omelettes, protein bowls to savory pancakes and crepes. Key toppings provide simple and delicious ways to up your bottom line. Think thick smoked bacon, local goats cheese and over roasted beets or Fresh Ricotta with fresh Dill and Smoked Salmon. Add rich jams, thick nut butters, and rare honey accompaniments for your assorted bread bowls, candied orange peel, plump nuts, dark chocolate chips, fresh nut spreads for your oatmeal and granola bowls, sriracha ketchup and black roasted garlic aioli to your home fries, and rich farm-raised caviar to your blini. – S.J.P.
March – June 2019 | 9
You want a brand that people want to hold.
Meet Blue Bottle Coffee. Named after Hof zur Blauen Flasche, the first-ever Central European coffee house, which was born in Vienna after a losing force of Turks left behind bags of coffee, Blue Bottle Coffee has taken the world by storm. Blue Bottle is not just coffee, it’s become a global destination synonymous with San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Tokyo, the coffee world’s closest thing to a designer brand. Even the Washington Post is crafting Blue Bottle Coffee headlines, raving and ranting about the product’s quality, and its head-turning spectacle of weaving coffee into a lifestyle brand. The Chefs’ Warehouse is proud to call Blue Bottle one of its own, with two high quality products perfect for hotels, caterers, corporate cafes, takeout, takeaway, delivery, or any facility with grab ‘n go options. It's like having a barista in your refrigerator case.
10 | CWmag.com
New Orleans-Style Iced Coffee
Cold Brew
Stout & creamy with caramelized flavors of chicory root
Certified organic and just three simple ingredients
Two hundred years before they started selling coffee in San Francisco, the French brought coffee infused with stout, caramelized flavors of chicory root to the shores of New Orleans. Blue Bottle’s New Orleans Iced Coffee is cold-brewed for 12 hours with roasted chicory and blended with creamy whole milk and organic cane sugar, and packaged in a sweet, nostalgic carton.
Blue Bottle's road trip-ready iced coffee is made of three simple ingredients: coffee, water, and time. Designed to inspire adventure and movement, their portable cans promise days on the trail, at the beach, and camping with friends-in one adorable and sustainable package. The taste is luminous yet dense, bright yet chocolatey, small yet powerful.
3 Simple Rules to
Spectacular Bacon
CW Big Brunch Feature
With Tony Baker of Baker’s Bacon
TO HEAR TONY BAKER TELL IT, the pork industry is notoriously secretive. “Well, it’s not so much that it’s secretive…it’s going through a difficult time,” he corrects. For factory farm pork the environment is challenging, led by the African influenza that’s killing a lot of animals. But despite the industry’s issues, Baker’s Bacon is booming. Tony Baker’s business has been bacon since 2012. He’s the rare
brought him to Monterey, and with the support of CW’s Jenn
producer that understands the needs of the kitchen, because he is an Executive Chef and actively uses the product he develops and promotes. His passion was born in Bristol, England, his Michelin-starred pedigree
Sussman, he’s grown his local, responsibly-sourced product into a national attention-maker.
1
2
3
Here are Tony’s Top Three Rules to the Ultimate Pork:
One: Start with the Best Pork. For Tony, the best pork is a happy, responsibly-sourced pork, humanely raised, free of the crating that’s now ubiquitous to the factory farm. Baker’s pork-source is a small developed network of family farms that raise heritage breeds, and where antibiotics are never used.
Two: Less Shrink, Higher Yields. Trying to save pennies on a commodity pork? Be careful. Tony says, “That commodity is filled with a brine of water and nitrates which gets pumped into the hog bellies. 20% of that water goes up through the roof through steam. Beyond that, most commercial bacon is steamed with atomized liquid smoke. We do the opposite,” he adds. “We’re literally taking salt, nitrates. A dry cured, slow process… and we’re naturally smoking. We burn wood. We’re using applewood chips and maplewood.”
“
THE QUALITY of raw ingredients sets the stage for what is to come from Baker’s Bacon. The double smoke time produces an aroma that entices customers – and ensures that they’ll be back. Baker's attention to quality and technique maintains tenderness, and gives the meat a subtle sweet flavor.
If bacon makes everything better, this makes bacon better."
Jennifer Sussman Director of Cheese and Charcuterie The Chefs’ Warehouse
Three: What ultimately matters…Taste. Baker’s Bacon has got chew and mouthfeel. It’s a green, better tasting product. Plus, slice-for-slice, it’s a better value.
For Tony, there’s a lot of bacon-buzzword hitting the market, but, “They talk the talk, but don't walk the walk,” he says of the bacon competitors. He adds, “With Baker’s Bacon you can do both. It’s the real deal.” So, why choose Baker’s Bacon? Tony’s got the answer: “We make one amazing bacon. When you look up ‘bacon’ in the dictionary, it’s Baker’s Bacon. It’s bacon the way it’s supposed to be: Spectacular.”
March – June 2019 | 11
RATHSKELLER
12 | CWmag.com
RATHSKELLER
At the Press Club
RATHSKELLER: SAN FRANCISCO WINTER FANCY FOOD SHOW AFTER PARTY WHAT ARE THE NEXT BIG FOOD TRENDS? Thousands of spectators, the CW West Coast Team, our vendors and customers came to taste for themselves. There’s no better place for foodies than the 2019 Winter Fancy Food Show. And no better place for celebration than our San Francisco Winter Fancy Food Show After Party held at The Press Club Wine Bar and Lounge on Monday, January 14th, 2019. With hundreds of guest in attendance and a line out the door, if you weren’t there for this this fabulous collision of CW staff, customers, vendors and culinary personalities, make sure you join us next year for some key industry joviality.
March – June 2019 | 13
EDGE OF SPRING A Perspective with Head Baker Jacob Fraijo of Newly Three Michelin-Starred Atelier Crenn by Kelli Colaco
Bake. The moment I knew I wanted to be a baker was when I started at my first restaurant in LA at Bottega Louie about ten years ago. Initially I was supposed to be a pastry chef, however, my section of the kitchen directly faced where the bakers worked. I’ll never forget, they were making traditional French bread and I was immediately intrigued and amazed, kind of ironically, about how much work was being done. Everyone was moving so quickly, and effectively. Not one move was wasted.
Positive. Being Head Baker at this level (LA’s Quince, Cotogna, Rose Cafe Venice, L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon, NYC, and now Atelier Crenn,) is incredible of course. I am honored to get these jobs and work with this caliber of people. However, there is a real level of anxiety that comes along with it. Once I get in the kitchen, this anxiety transitions into focusing on what I’m doing. I have been very lucky to get to work with very humble, although still very demanding chefs. There’s a lot of emotion in this work. I have learned the key for me is just to focus on what I am doing in the moment. This, and striving to stay positive no matter what really helps to keep my head on straight.
14 | CWmag.com
S A N
F R A N C I S C O IMAGE BELOW: David Kaisel from Capay Mills is responsible for the amazing product. Country bread made with Foisy wheat from the Capay Valley in Northern California.
Sex. The truth is working with Chef-Proprietor Dominique Crenn (Three Michelin Star Recipient for Atelier Crenn 2018, the first female chef to obtain this distinction) has never been about gender. Chef Crenn doesn’t like to separate in that way. The team is the team. Anybody who has ever met her knows she’s very down to earth, super fun, always smiling and laughing, but at the same time she’s very serious about our work, but not in a way that creates stress. It’s interesting to be here because although we are grateful to work in a restaurant that has received so much notoriety and acknowledgment, we truly don’t focus on that. We don’t think of ourselves as better than anyone else. We just count ourselves lucky that we get to work on what we love as a team and strive to keep growing.
Nature. Atelier Crenn’s mission of reconnecting our guests with nature is very important to me and an aspect of the restaurant that I found immediately appealing when I was considering taking the position of Head Baker here. One of the first things I did was to reach out to local millers and farmers for grain. Forging these relationships with farmers and millers and using their products is something I find very creative and satisfying.
Ingredient. We get a lot of amazing ingredients from The Chefs’ Warehouse. One that really stands out for me is Isigny Sainte-Mère Butter. It’s just a really excellent and reliable butter that we use for a lot of different applications, from my croissants to Chef Pâtissier Juan Contreras’ very popular Brioche.
Bread. It can be difficult with bread to be super creative. In general, you want to keep it simple and use the very best ingredients. However, it is very interesting to create a new way to make a classic bread or to use a grain utilized from a heritage seed; an antique grain. This is a strong connecting point for me to Atelier Crenn in general.
Embrace. Our connection to our guests is very personal. This aspect is amazing at this level. The meals we prepare is a story we are telling. We welcome the journey to providing the options our guests need. For instance one of our more popular gluten-free offerings generated from a polenta we made from heirloom corn breeds from local Full Belly Farms. From this, we created corn bread that is Vegan and gluten-free. Everybody loves it and we really love supporting small farms.
Pairs. I consider myself very fortunate that my girlfriend Pastry Chef Christina Hanks and I have managed to get hired together a lot. We’ve worked together at Bottega Louie, Bouchon Bakery, The Rose Cafe, In Venice CA, and L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon, NYC. We had been in New York City for three years working together when I got the offer to work here at Atelier Crenn. This is the first time I said I wouldn’t take the job unless they hired Christina and I together. Fortunately, they were already planning on offering Christina a Pastry Chef position.
Everything. I’ve never met another Baker-Pastry Chef couple, but couples working together in a restaurant is a very common thing. This job demands everything from you, so sharing this with your partner is important and makes being in a relationship possible really. I love collaborating with Christina because she thinks differently than I do. We speak the same language. She knows just what to say when I need it.
March – June 2019 | 15
Celebrating Luxury:
The Freshest Oyster Ask Ports Seafood’s Oyster Expert, Donny Loftis, what matters when sourcing the world’s best oyster, and what questions should we be asking? When it comes to oyster quality, Donny states, “It depends on what the customer wants. If they’re a beginner, an East Coast oyster is the milder, more flavorless.” But savvy West Coasters seek the flavorful: the taste of pure ocean with hints of minerality. That ocean flavor can be readily be found in the local West Coast oysters, of which CW has in abundance. CW/Ports Seafood typically carries 15-20 oyster varieties on any given day. “Marin Miyagis, Point Reyes Miyagis, the Humboldt Kumamoto, Marin Gems, Hammersleys, Scoocums, Fanny Maes, Cooshie, Shodokies, Fat Bastards…” Donny's CW list seems endless. And of the best CW has to offer: The Washington Capital Gem. “The Capital Gems are a tumbled oyster,” Donny explains. The tumbling refers to their production method of constant jostling. “They don’t just sit in a bed. They have a deep cut,
Get Fresh Oyster Updates Our Fresh Oyster supply is updated daily, so reach out to Ports' Seafood, or ask your Sales Rep.
16 | CWmag.com
"Marin Miyagis, Point Reyes Miyagis, the Humboldt Kumamoto, Marin Gems, Hammersleys, Scoocums, Fanny Maes, Cooshie, Shodokies, Fat Bastards…” CW's list seems endless.
don’t break apart; just great, excellent notes of cucumber. Very clean, not too briny.” These Gems are also known for their full meat with little room for liquor. Donny cautions to the unpredictable seasonal effects. “As we move past Easter towards Mother’s Day and closer to summer, it’s the conditions that will be key. Once it gets too hot, they lose their quality,” he cautions. “We should be okay, even if we get a hot spring. The Capital Gem is pretty immune to the spawn,” he adds. Quality extends to the oyster source Ports Seafood buys from. He prefers the small oyster-farm mom and pops. Why? Donny explains: “When we source small, we find we get a better, more consistent oyster, We also get better reports on quality. Keeps us abreast of the conditions.”
No matter how you like your oyster, The Chefs’ Warehouse guarantees the biggest and freshest supply. – S.J.P.
Celebrating Luxury:
Caviar,The Pearl of Persia
"These farms use clean, clear water IF THE PEARL OF CUISINE IS THE ROYAL OYSTER, the diamond of cuisine is Caviar. So when contained in ice cold it comes to supplying the best in caviar? The world’s experts look to Iran, which boasts underground springs the deepest waters in the Caspian, the source of the most coveted caviar in the world. to produce a pure, uses Caviar & Caviar USA, most recognized under their In 2008, the United States banned all imports of clean tasting caviar." CW exclusive brand name of Sasanian Caviar, as their trusted caviar source and CW's exclusive brand of Laval Caviar. The Florida-based family business is steeped in decades of Persian expertise and tradition. They directly import, process and distribute their caviar in their state-of-the-art facility in Fort Lauderdale. We spoke with Ashley Jalileyan, an attorney who has stepped back into her family business. When asked what makes Sasanian Caviar different, Ashley answers, “We offer the highest quality Persian Processed Caviar. All of our caviar is managed and processed by the SHILAT Team, who have overseen Iranian Caspian Caviar production for decades. Additionally, all our caviar is packed fresh to order and we have fully integrated oversight of the entire caviar production process."
Sturgeon Roe from the Caspian Sea in an effort to help with the conservation of the Sturgeon species in the Caspian region. Today, aquaculture is the sole source of all imported Sturgeon Roe within the United States. At Caviar & Caviar, they focus on the importance of sustainability, traceability, and transparency of their Caviar. Of their most popular items, Ashley says, "The Russian Osetra we source is 100% pure Russian Sturgeon and is from our partner farm in Poland. By having complete oversight of the caviar process, including feed, water quality, veterinarian inspections and final harvest and productions we are able to provide caviar of the highest consistent standards that exceed those of traditional wild stock and are now a fraction of the price." – S.J.P.
Smoked Trout Caviar The higest grade of trout roe. Smoked with an exquisite combination of oak and hickory. A burst of freshness with a light hint of smokiness followed by a clean taste of the sea.
Russian Osetra Caviar A classic high grade Osetra caviar, pure bred with Russian Sturgeon. Large-sized firm amber pearls that provide an extremely smooth finish. Siberian Osetra Caviar An ethical and superior alternative to Caspian Sevruga Caviar. Medium-sized dark gray pearls that are creamy in texture with a crisp, nutty taste.
March – June 2019 | 17
Threatened Luxury:
What CA’s Foie Gras Ban Means For Your Menu
On January 7, 2019, the Supreme Court declined to hear a challenge to the lower court’s 2017 ruling, effectively upholding the foie gras ban throughout the state of California.
a conversation with Hudson Valley Foie Gras' Michael Ginor
Michael Aeyal Ginor is co-founder, co-owner, and President of Hudson Valley Foie Gras and New York State Foie Gras, the most comprehensive Foie Gras producer in the world.
The law, originally passed in 2004 with a 7.5-year enforcement delay, targets the methods by which foie is produced. The law states that any product made by “force feeding a bird for the purpose of enlarging the bird’s liver beyond normal size” cannot be sold or produced in the state, and provides for a civil penalty of $1,000 for each violation, and up to $1,000 a day for each day the violation continues.
French words: ‘Fat' and 'Liver’. It’s foreign, a product for the wealthy, which adds to the negative imagery. It’s being made to be hedonistic, and to the naked eye, unappealing. But this has always been the case – I detailed long ago in my book ‘Foie Gras Passion,’ which shows it’s always been a controversial item.
With only two foie gras producers in the U.S., CW Magazine reached out to Michael Ginor, co-founder, co-owner, and President of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, producer of a product considered the industry standard, about the ethics of foie gras production and how this new law, and other proposed laws like it, affect his business.
market which is an unfortunate precedent, which it has also become in New York. It’s worrisome, but I can tell you that we’re an open farm. A USDA inspected facility. Time and time again, they haven’t seen abuse, physically. Or stress, mentally.
How has CA's recent foie gras ban affected Hudson Valley's operations/strategy? “Firstly, the ruling in the Supreme Court wasn’t really about foie gras, it was about interstate commerce. What the court rejected was whether one state can dictate how animals are treated across state lines. But unfortunately, people do not understand how foie gras is produced and raised, and there remains a lot of misinformation on the subject. There’s no shortage of information that the ducks are not being harmed or abused. The facts show there’s lower disease, lower mortality – ours is less than 2%, where industrial farms are between 4-10%. Ducks migrate and gorge during migration and use that stored-fat energy while they migrate – it’s a survival mechanism. Foie gras is an easy target. Foie gras being two
We’re disappointed in the ruling because, more than the fact that we’re having to battle the California
And our farm is an open facility. Those who’ve visited see the ducks are treated much better than industrial farms. We are all about education and letting people make up their own minds. Any chef wants to visit, come." Are there steps that can counteract the public’s concerns about ethical animal treatment? “To continue to educate the magistrates in California and hope that people will exercise more rational decision-making on this.” Are there ingredient alternatives? “Foie gras is our marquis product, but the rest of the duck is viable. The legs, we have an extensive line of prosciutto, rillets, confit, salami, sausages, rendered packaged fats, terrines, torchons. We produce 20K organic chickens, as well. However, if foie gras is illegal, there is nothing to replace it with. Maybe chicken liver mousse, but it’s not a replacement. There is no faux foie.” What should chefs know about Hudson Valley? “I want them to know we are a conscientious, careful organization. Our farm is an open facility to visit. There’s a lot of misstatements about the product, and I ask that they individually look at both sides and decide for themselves what is right or wrong from a conscience level.” – S.J.P. WHAT DO YOU THINK? Does foie gras production deserve special scrutiny compared to the abuses in industrial farms? Log in to: CWmag.com/FoieGras and join the conversation.
18 | CWmag.com
THIS IS THE DAWNING OF THE AGE OF CLEAN, GREEN, plant-based culinary wonders vitalizing the spectrum of historic gastronomy. This sun-filled spring, The Chefs’ Warehouse is thrilled to invite you to our new, ever blossoming Plant-Based Category where you will discover an earth-friendly bounty of dazzling new ingredients,
clean &
green
along with long loved staples that have always championed the pathway of healthy, innovative eating.
AUTHENTICITY – THAT’S WHAT PEOPLE ARE TALKING ABOUT. Trends come and go, and some come back with a vengeance like ‘80s fashion. I am hopeful though that wanting to know where our food comes from is not a trend, but that we’ve rediscovered a value that previous generations
introducing CW's NEW category: Plant-based Foods!
understood well. I hope we can pass on this value to future generations. We should ask how the animals were cared for, if our manufacturers are responsible stewards of our natural resources, and if the end product we put into our bodies is wholesome and satisfying. We work with ingredient-driven chefs, and we hope that regardless of the current food trends, that our customers will
Nikki Thomas, Regional Director of Procurement The Chefs' Warehouse
continue to rely on us for those wholesome ingredients that will set themselves apart, and promote the well-being of their diners.
continued on next page. CW is proud of our association with the FORA founders, a Brooklyn-based pair of entrepreneurs, Andrew McClure and Aidan Altman, as they leap into the future with their sustainable brand built from the innovative use of a discarded byproduct.
Join our stories on Facebook at:
/chefswarehouse
March – June 2019 | 19
The best vegan butter gets a new name:
ForaButter Meet the Sustainable, Usable, Vegan-Friendly Butter Alternative BUTTER MADE OUT OF CHICKPEAS? Brooklyn-based vegan company, Fora Foods has perfected the recipe for a new plant-based butter called FabaButter (soon to be called Fora Butter, new packaging coming out soon) made using aquafaba, the brine water that is leftover when cooking chickpeas. Aquafaba can act as an emulsifier, leavening agent, and foaming agent because it has properties similar to those of egg whites. Together with water, coconut oil, and plant-based liquid oil, aquafaba helps create a rich, creamy product that cooks, tastes, bakes and spreads just like traditional butter. Fora/FabaButter made its debut last year at the San Francisco Winter Fancy Food Show and Fora co-founders, Andrew McClure and Aidan Altman already have plans for aquafa-
ba-based whipped cream, frostings, and dressings. “We’ve worked with some vegan chefs and they tell us that it’s the most functional butter alternative on the market that they have worked with.” In an effort to make their product zero-waste, Fora buys leftover aquafaba from hummus producers, an ingredient that would normally be tossed. Fora/FabaButter is meeting with a high deggre of success as more and more consumers actively seek plantbased alternatives.
Newly renamed ForaButter, with new packaging coming soon!
the future is:
nuts!
CW’S VAST INVENTORY OF NUTS, seeds, dried fruits, and mixes, now finds itself heralded as healthful culinary centerpieces, as west coast tastes continue their shift toward plant-based diets. Even your most animal-protein passionate chef will confess that the future of gastronomy lies in maximizing plant-based cuisine options. Nuts, high in healthy proteins and fiber are being highlighted in diverse recipes for vegan and vegetarian center-of-plate, and of course, dessert and pastry options, particularly coming in handy in gluten-free and vegan recipes where nut milks, butter, and flours have become nearly undetectable substitutes. And dried fruits act as essential sweeteners for recipes that want to keep refined sugar at a minimum.
TREND ALERT 2019! Move over almond butter. Things got seedy on a recent list of 2019 food trends. At the 2019 Trend Hunter Future Festival held in the fall of 2018, watermelon seed butter had attendees buzzing – and was noted as one of the top 11 food trends for 2019. Whip up a trio of housemade nut and seed butters. From hazelnuts to sunflower seeds, cashews to pepitas, almost any seed or nut can be turned into an unconventional butter.
20 | CWmag.com
More than just delicious and nutritious, here is your brain on nuts. *The University of Massachusetts Lowell studied pecan’s effects on the brain, as described in the article, “Pecans Provide Neurological Protection,“ which reveals that antioxidant-rich pecans are shown to be an exceptionally rich source of of Alzheimer’s-fighting antioxidants. Truth be known, all nuts are high in antioxidants, Vitamins E, A and B, Ellagic Acid, Calcium, and Flavonoids, thus bolstering health in powerful ways. Unparalleled, time-honored nuts are the way forward for all of your exciting seasonal recipes, the future of food, and the healthy future of you. So grab a few bags or cans full, and GO NUTS!
The Gold Standard of
Bluebird Grain Farms
Bluebird Grain Farms’ goal is to cultivate and mill the most irresistible, nutrient-rich grain possible. Real nutrition and a thriving countryside go hand in hand—you simply don’t get one without the other.
CW's Plant-based Foods
Bluebird Grain Farms grows and mills 100% organic heirloom grains on their biodynamic farm in Washington’s beautiful Methow Valley. Owners, Brooke and Sam Lucy, are responsible for operating the farm, granary and mill. Their goal is to provide your customers with nutritious grains of exceptional quality “from plow to plate,” while improving the land they cultivate for future generations. Bluebird Emmer Farro sets the gold standard for this gourmet, ancient wheat. Dating back to early civilization, Emmer Farro is a simple grain of 28 chromosomes that pre-dates spelt. It makes a fabulous pilaf, grain salad, risotto, addition to soup, or sprouted for breads and salads. Bluebird Einka (Einkhorn) is a type of farro, an Italian term for
“ancient hulled wheat.” It is a petite whole grain berry: rich in protein, phosphorus, vitamin B6, potassium, antioxidants and amino acids. It contains natural carotenoids that are commonly found in vegetables. Einkorn has a low gluten content which is reflective of its simple chromosome count of 14. Blue Bird Einkorn Flour is a light, soft and airy flour with a delicate sweetness. It is high in protein (18% per 50 g) and comes with a simple gluten structure which makes it a wonderful alternative for people suffering from gluten sensitivities. It is milled fresh weekly for optimum flavor, freshness and nutrition.
Owners Brooke and Sam Lucy brought their family along for the Bluebird Farms adventure.
March – June 2019 | 21
CW's Plant-based Foods
“Sea greens are trending and showing new depth.”
ble without use of arable farm land, fresh water, pesticides, or fertilizers. Ocean Approved also grows the finest American kelp on the market.
kelp me. falling in love with Maine’s coolest ingredient
FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE ASKED some of the most recognizable names in food to predict the Next Big Things in 2019. With healthy eating having never been hotter, Kelp, a fast growing superfood, is at the top of their list. Kelp also tastes really good. Mild in flavor and adding texture and nutritional oomph, Maine Sugar Kelp is CW’s trending secret ingredient in menu items. Farmed off the cold, clean waters of Maine’s Casco Bay, this sea vegetable’s diversity extends from omelets to sandwiches, smoothies to carrot cake, wood-fired pizza to sauce infusions, and everything in between.
“Sea greens are trending and showing new depth,” John says. “From Whole Foods to delis, to juice bars, across the country I’m seeing seaweed butter, kelp noodles, and KLTs (a BLT alternative using crispy, oil-rich kelp as a replacement for bacon). And with kelp’s diversified salts, you get umami-rich flavor. You also get high-packed, superfood nutrition. Plus, they're gluten-free and vegan.” Magazino adds. Nutrient positive, Kelp contains every mineral the body uses. It’s also antioxidant and iodine-rich, high in protein, low in carbohydrates, and virtually free of fat. Best of all, it’s energizing, rich in flavor, and great for the health of our oceans. A winter crop, Maine Sugar Kelp is at its spring-fresh, flash-frozen best, fresh off the farm in April.
Kelp Cubes Supercharge your Smoothie with Maine’s Own Kelp Cubes. Add their mild, fresh flavor to smoothies, ortexture to your wood-fired pizzas.
Kelp Rounds
22 | CWmag.com
Maine, the first state in the U.S. to commercially farm kelp, remains a national leader with its developed aquaculture framework, set guidelines, and well-developed industry.
Use nutrient-rich Kelp Rounds to your favorite
John Magazino, The Chefs’ Warehouse Director of Specialty Foods, is one of the forces behind our distributor relationship with Maine Sugar Kelp supplier Ocean Approved, a sustainable venture that produces this highly nutritious sea vegeta-
Kelp Wraps
salads, sandwiches, and recipes. Adds visual flair and fresh flavor.
Maine Sugar Kelp wraps are flexible, handle well, and do not tear as easily as nori. No rolling mats or special equipment required.
CW/DEL Monte Meat Company:
GIVING IS RECEIVING Empowers: CW/Del Monte was proud to be the Event Sponsor of the Women's Leadership Program Event, hosted for the first time at Stanford University, on February 26, 2019. The Women’s Leadership Development Program (WLDP) is dedicated to advancing women leaders, and was inspired by the Women’s Foodservice Forum (WFF), an organization that provides competency development programming, especially for women in the foodservice industry. CW/Del Monte proudly donated 300 swag bags filled with exciting high end product-ingredients including Monini EVOO and Sparrow Lane Artisanal Vinegars (who both generously covered their own costs,) and DoughXX cookies, who also graciously donated.
Elevates:
CW/Del Monte is ecstatic to partner with Chef Todd Fisher and 7D Steakhouse in Carmel on March 21st for a fundraising dinner to support the Niman Ranch Next Generation Foundation/ Scholarship Fund. The dinner, followed by a silent auction, includes a four-course meal utilizing Niman Ranch beef, pork and lamb paired with Folktale wines. Tickets will be $175.00 per person.Save the date and join us to support young future farmers: NimanRanchFoundation.org
Entertains: Yountville Live, World Class Music Food and Wine, March 16th 11am-5pm CW offered 20 Event tickets (each with a $390 value) to Yountville Live, Taste of Yountville Event for customers who signed up for online ordering by February 22nd and entered a raffle with winners randomly selected.
# BAK E R SO F G R E ATBR E A D
TRIBECAOVEN.COM
Health, Wellness and 2019’s Top Tea Trends
OUR WAREHOUSE HIGHLIGHTS
ALWAYS ON THE HUNT for unique and authentic experiences, Harney & Sons is pleased to offer exciting varieties on trend for consumers in 2019. Teas for Health & Wellness, with naturally bright bold colors, and globally inspired flavors are sure to be a hit.
Blue Tea, Matcha & Turmeric are Trending The latest trend among tea connoisseurs is blue tea. It’s been gaining in popularity, has become an Instagram star across Asia, from Thailand to Bali, and now has hit the mainstream western market. “It’s colour is unique”, says Vikram Mittal, tea expert on the Hindustan Times, adding, “In this age where presentation is everything, such is the visual appeal of the blue tea that it doesn’t matter how you serve it, it just looks gorgeous.” Also trending is Matcha. For years it’s been a tea buzzword but now it’s a booming superfood trend. Produced in Japan for centuries and used by Buddhist monks to stay stay calm and alert
during meditation, vivid-green Matcha also has 10 times the antioxidants of regular green tea. It’s graduated from being a health-food store staple to a superfood ingredient used in a wide variety of applications. And among the healthy buzzwords cycling around on the internet is Turmeric. Prominently found in Indian cooking, Turmeric is full of curcumin, an anti-inflammatory herb that’s long been used in Vedic & Chinese Medicine to alleviate pain and as a blood mover. Harney and Sons Fine Teas fully embraces these health and wellness tea trends in beautiful, convenient packaging, perfect for hotels, country clubs, cafes, takeout, and grab ‘n go establishments.
Matcha Iri Genmaicha, is a classic Japanese pairing of invigorating green tea with roasted and popped brown rice kernels.
Butterfly Flower Lemonade pairs the vibrant blue and purple hues of Butterfly Pea Flowers, native to Southeast Asia, with organic lemonade for a refreshing, show-stopping drink.
Turmeric Orange American Buzz blends yaupon, a caffeinated native holly with flavorful and functional turmeric root. India’s Ayurvedic healing tradition.
Steeped in Tradition with Harney & Sons Fine Teas 36 years ago in Salisbury, CT, John Harney, proprietor of the historic White Hart Inn, developed a passion for fine teas. John was introduced to the world of tea by Stanley Mason, who over time taught John the art and business of the craft. Starting production out of his basement in 1983, John began his journey mastering the art of tea blending. Serving his distinctive blends to inn guests, he soon found they were coming back for more. Today, Harney & Sons sources, blends, and packages their product from start to finish at their headquarters in Millerton, NY, and bottling plant in Hudson, NY, employing over 200 people. Harney & Sons is committed to delivering their customers the finest quality tea possible. This promise, made over 30 years ago, serves as the company's guiding principle, with John's sons, Mike & Paul carrying on the tradition. It is not only the Harney mission to deliver quality, but also to educate their customers on tea’s history and taste. We now see the most significant expansion coming from two very distinct market segments: functional botanical blends and single estate artisanal teas.
24 | CWmag.com
Harney Happy Hour Whether lounging lake side, or celebrating Summer with friends, Harney teas are sure to make you smile. Perfectly pair their variety of tea blends with your favorite beverage for a delightfully refreshing cocktail or mocktail.
Green Tea Margarita • • • • • •
1 oz Tequila 1 oz Limoncello liqueur 1/2 c Organic Green With Citrus & Ginkgo Fresh Brew Iced Tea 4 tbsp Lime 1/2 Lime, cut into wedges (for garnish) Pink Himalayan salt (optional)
For more tea inspired recipes visit:
harney.com/happyhour
Moisten the rim of a glass with a lime wedge. Rotate the glass in the salt to “frost” the rim evenly. In a cocktail shaker, add ice and combine remaining ingredients. Shake well and strain into the prepared glass. Garnish with a lime or lemon wedge, and enjoy!
Mike and Paul Harney
March – June 2019 | 25
Spring Awakening, Santa Barbara The Re-Opening of
San Ysidro Ranch
with Executive Chef Matt
Johnson
AFTER NARROWLY ESCAPING the Thomas Fire of 12/17, and suffering the brutal loss of half of its historic property to the virulent mudslides that plagued the fair Montecito Hills last January 2018, San Ysidro Ranch, Luxury Hotel, will be officially, and gloriously, re-opened this March, 2019. CW Magazine reached out to the famed “institution’s”, Executive Chef, Matt Johnson, for his take on “returning home,” standing at the culinary helm of landmark resort, his menu creation and execution at The James Beard Awards, and getting to the heart of the distinction of California Cuisine. Owned by the mogul of the Beanie Baby craze, Ty Warner, renowned for hosting multitudes of high profile celebrities, politicians and royalty. San Ysidro Ranch sprawls exquisitely over 500 acres that open to the ocean. It offers a jaw-dropping variety of top
drawer-country chic cottages, suites, wedding venues, and multiple award-winning (*World’s #1 Resort” by Forbes Traveller) restaurants (Stonehouse, Plow & Angel.) ‘The Ranch,’ as folks ‘in the know,’ refer to it, offers the kind of uber-high-end, private luxury that icons like Audrey Hepburn, Bing Crosby, Winston Churchill, and President John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy (who enjoyed their honeymoon here) coveted historically. Incidentally, due to their notorious reputation of privacy, “The Ranch” would not share the current A-Lister clientele with CW Magazine.
Pan Roasted Maine Diver Scallops Charred Romanesco, Braised Oxtail, King Oyster Mushrooms, Pea Shoots, Corn Puree and Black Garlic Vinaigrette
San Ysidro Ranch’s brilliant and down to earth Executive Chef, Matt Johnson, was kind enough to offer CW Magazine his unique chef viewpoint during the exciting and assiduous re-opening countdown. Can you speak to the meaning of California Cuisine? “Californian cuisine embodies dishes that are driven by local and sustainable ingredients with attention to the seasons. Also, it is a fusion cuisine derived from all the countries of the world.”
Distinction–SoCal NorCal Cuisine? “NorCal has at least 12 three, Michelin star restaurants and SoCal has way better Mexican food which I prefer. And we have the Dodgers.”
You've been with Ysidro Ranch since 2008, what are some exciting elements of the re-opening? “It has been amazing, like coming home after a long time away. A lot of work on everyone’s part went into the reopening, and although it was a horrible tragedy that happened, it now looks better than ever. It has been very exciting working on the menus: having a fresh start with new dishes and new equipment and new staff.”
26 | CWmag.com
S A N T A
B A R B A R A
Please share about how your herbs and vegetables are grown in your organic gardens? “Our garden is in the center of our property, a short walk up from the restaurants. We will have a chef’s gardener who works with me on seasonal menus needs. This spring we will grow Peas, Beans, Carrots, Cauliflower, Cucumbers, Kohlrabi, and many others as well as lots of herbs. We also have a bunch of Meyer Lemon Trees and Fig Trees as well as all berries.” (*The ranch was originally part of a 1769 land grant by Charles III of Spain, served as a sanctuary for Franciscan monks before becoming a citrus operation, and then eventually a hotel.)
What's the biggest draw to the Ranch in your view? “The biggest draw to the San Ysidro Ranch is its serenity. Just being able to relax with amazing views and peacefulness.”
Pan seared Santa Barbara Albalone
Do you take advantage of all The Ranch has to offer, or are you just too busy? “I definitely do not take advantage of all the ranch has to offer unless it is in the kitchen. This is where I spend my days and nights. Someday I will cannonball into the pool.”
Word on CW? “I buy almost everything from The Chefs’ Warehouse. I do a dish: Pan Roasted Scallops with Charred Romanesco, Braised Oxtail, King Oyster Mushrooms, Pea Shoots, Corn Puree and Black Garlic Vinaigrette. I get the Black Garlic from Chefs’ Warehouse and is really amazing. It is a dish that we will be featuring in the Spring.” – K.C.
Get the Inside Scoop on Chef Matt’s bespoke 5-course Dinner at The James Beard House @ CWmag.com/SpringAwakening
SPRING IS A TRULY MAGICAL TIME OF YEAR! With longer days there is plenty of time to check out new innovative restaurants and venues for weekend brunch. When the sun returns (after the wettest winter on record for Southern California and the entire Southwest, snow dusting the hills around Los Angeles, Las Vegas and San Francisco,) everything is re born and renewed. It’s a time for revitalized energy, fresh starts and planting the seeds for new ideas. How about springing for new ingredients on your menu? We have plenty of delicious sheep and goat cheeses to choose from. What about our earthy EVOO finishing oils imported from Italy? Whether you’re topping spring greens or fresh fish, our trained Chef sales consultants will pair the best ingredients with your amazing creativity!
Tina Roberts, Regional Vice President, SoCal The Chefs' Warehouse
Allow your menu to truly blossom this sunny season by jumping over to our website and browsing the many offerings, now available for order online at chefswarehouse.com!
MarchMarch – June– June 20192019 | 27| 27
Bee Local
There’s a New Buzz in PNW’s Heritage of Artisan Honey by Sean Jeremy Palmer
BEE LOCAL HONEY IS A UNIQUE MICRO-BATCH artisan honey producer known for terroir-based honey varieties that reflect the complex profiles of neighborhoods throughout Oregon, a footprint that continues to expand across the Pacific Northwest and the United States. Bee Local joined the Jacobsen Salt Co. family in 2015. Ben Jacobsen, owner and founder, reflects on the partnership. “We whole-heartedly believed in Bee Local’s mission to practice sustainable beekeeping focused on specific terroirs throughout the Pacific Northwest, and are determined to keep that spirit alive. Bee Local is commited to producing exceptional honey that is sustainably harvested, never heated, treated, blended, or ultra-filtered. Each honey variety offers a distinct and complex flavor profile that reflects the flora, fauna, and forage of its region and is traceable from hive to jar,” he states. Ben's impetus is realizing the regional, neighborhood differences in different types of honey. Originally, Bee Local was started by Damian Magista who started bee keeping in backyard. These bees were pulling pollen from a distance of a mile or two, and Damian noticed the honeys in these neighborhoods were strikingly different; how bees forage and how foraging changes from block-to-block, mile-to-mile. From this celebration of nuance and single origin, Bee Local was born. There will be the occasional bee leg or bee wing, some visible populous, residual pollen, but that’s all part and parcel of staying true to the heritage of producing great honey. Ben’s relationship with Bee Local started as a delivery partner. “We had a couple friends who started Bee Local, which was growing quickly as well and having a few growing pains. We put our heads together: We’re delivering to the same stores, same accounts, and asked, ‘Do you want us to deliver your product for you? Do you want us to sell your products for you?’” Jacobsen Salt and Bee Local fully joined forces 4 years ago. They’ve grown
1000% in 12 months and continue to grow strongly along with Jacobsen Salt Company today. “Honey has become a real part of what we do here every day,” Jacobsen says. Asked whether there are applied lessons from producing America’s leading heritage salt that can be applied to producing artisan honey, Jacobsen states that, “Absolutely there is a ton that crosses over – that’s what enabled us to grow Bee Local. We still have a long way to go with both, but both brands are on sustainable, self-sufficient paths. Both wouldn’t be here without incredible attention to quality. Local is nice, but local doesn’t mean anything if it isn’t quality and if it’s not the best, there’s no reason [for customers] to come back to it again.”
“Honey has become a real part of what we do here every day.”
When asked what it really means to have a sustainable product, Ben replies, “Sustainable has unfortunately become a buzzword – ultimately it’s the antithesis of a buzzword; its meant to be something that's repeatable and duplicable and can happen for generations to come.” He continues, “One should never take solace in the busy-ness of the food business. Food is really a focal point of not only sustainability but also nourishment for oneself. Yes, sustainability is a thing now, but sustainability is, in my mind, what we should all be doing. Sustainability is not just a thing
Ben Jacobsen, owner and founder
28 | CWmag.com
P O R T L A N D
Hot Honey Sauce Infused with Scorpion
West Coast Wildflower Honey
Chili Peppers. Sweet, spicy, and addictive.
Sustainably produced West Coast Wildflower Honey. Raw, unfiltered, delicious, and
“
The PNW has our nation’s best food cities. Why? Our region has high standards; a culture that promotes sustainability, local sourcing and farm-to-table.
nutrition-packed.
Smoked Honey Sauce
Oregon High Desert Honey
Cider vinegar and
From hives located in
lapsang souchong tea
the expansive Eastern
give it a smoky, sweet,
Oregon region. From
savory boost.
foraged sage, rabbit brush, larkspur, buckwheat, phlox.
While it may not seem easy to bridge the sourcing divide from product to the brightest culinary minds, it’s local companies like Jacobsen Salts, Twin Sisters Creamery, and products like Bee Local, that make that job so much easier.” Andrew Brown, Regional Vice President Pacific Northwest The Chefs' Warehouse
Honey Syrup Raw American Wildflower honey, fresh Oregon water, and Jacobsen Sea Salt.
Oregon Buckwheat Honey Called ‘American Manuka’ due to its its richness: dark, smoky, earthy, with deep molasses overtones.
to slap on a package to sell more product.” To Ben, it’s imperative that we have follow our principles. This is evident in Bee Local’s minimal use of pesticides – he says that some are required for mite control, however insecticides are not something they use or promote. And when it comes to sourcing their honey, Bee Local works exclusively with bee keepers who guarantee a certificate of authenticity that guarantee no inorganic compounds are used, which includes GMOs.
I mention to Ben that his Jacobsen Salt is on my dining table and that I save for special occasions. He’s heard this argument before and argues against it, emphatically urging me, “Don’t. Use it. Use all the time.” And since, I use it on everything. Finishing up our interview I ask Ben what he most wants CW customers to know about the Bee Local Brand. He answers, “It’s a brand that you can trust with authenticity and transparency and reflects the highest quality pantry ingredients possible.” He then adds, “Great food is the summation and formulation of great ingredients.”
March – June 2019 | 29
The Mother of Twin Sisters Creamery An interview with co-owner and founder, Lindsay Slevin. ON THE PACIFIC-SIDE OF WHATCOM COUNTY, WASHINGTON, just north of Seattle and just south of the Canadian border, lies a new culinary upstart born of passion, family, and experience. “Jeff and I always wanted to have our own business,” Lindsay Slevin, co-owner and founder of Twin Sisters Creamery, explains. “We talked about ideas and got to a point where: are we really going to keep talking about this or are we going to do something? It was time to stop dreaming and take action.” Inspired by their twin girls to pursue a dream of starting a family business, Lindsay and her husband Jeff, blended their experience and passion and embarked on a journey to become artisan cheese makers. It took them 3-years, but in 2015 their inaugural Whatcom Blue was born. Their cheese have since found regional and national recognition, and are now distributed by Chefs’ Warehouse/Provvista, can be found in Whole Foods, Murray’s, and Fred Meyers, and is a constant on menus and cheese boards at local PNW haunts such as Semiahmoo Resort, Keenan’s at the Pier, Aslan Brewery, and Ovn Pizza, in diverse applications from blue cheese burgers, to filets and wedge salads, to parmesan-style crisps. Most recently, Twin Sisters' gained national recognition with their Farmhouse with Whole Black Peppercorn winning 2nd place in its category at the American Cheese Society Conference in Pittsburgh. And with a brand new, 3500 sq ft. facility, they are poised to begin their next chapter in artisan cheesemaking.
A Commitment to Raw Milk When asked what her success is attributed to, Lindsay is quick to say, “You’d have to try our blue cheese. It’s a beautiful product. We want to focus on raw milk and jersey cows, which are just 12-miles from us. It’s a closed herd, so we know the exact source. A single-source closed system. That was critical. And you can taste that jersey cream.” This Whatcom Blue was their first, and for chefs who want stories on their menu, this local cheese has a tale to tell. The story, quality of the milk, and its mellow-approachable flavor has earned its place on the cheese board and restaurant menus. “We wanted an approachable cheese that appeals beyond just blue cheese levels. A gateway blue,” Linsday begins. “It’s so heavy on the cream without a bite. We made an intentional small format blue,”
30 | CWmag.com
she continues. “And for chefs, that smaller size and vacuum sealed 2.5 lb wheel with a 6-month shelf life is a benefit in the kitchen so chefs can move through it quickly." On their Farmhouse White, Lindsay explains, “We wanted the quality of the milk to be the star. It’s a totally different cheese. The culture is different, the temperature. It captures the cream and the milk. We cannot by law call it a cheddar. And it’s not a cheddar. It’s really just a rich, bit of a tang, but with a different cream finish. It’s handmade. It’s wonderful.” I ask Lindsay what she’s learned in her short years in business and the taste of success. “I am learning something every single day,” she answers. “And that is a true statement.” “So what did you learn today?” I ask. “Well, I learned about hiring an executive director for the Washington State Cheese Makers Association,” an organization for which she is also the President. “I learned about writing an RFP,” she continues. “You don’t know what you don’t know until you don’t know it. It’s not easy to be a cheesemaker, you face not even obstacles, but roadblocks and you just keep forging ahead. I have so much respect for business owners and other cheesemakers.” As our interview concludes I ask Lindsay about the “Twin Sisters”, her twin daughters and the inspiration behind her Twin Sisters Creamery, and whether there’s any hope of them carrying on the mantle that bears their name. “I hope they find their passion in life,” Lindsay replies, “and that when they do, that they are brave enough to pursue it. They love the lab jackets they have, and they love going on the milk truck, and they’ll have some great memories, for sure. But as a parent, it’s tough to believe that they’ll want to be cheesemakers. Right now, one wants to be an author, the other wants to be an astronaut, so we’ll see.” – S.J.P.
W A S H I N G T O N
S T A T E
Whatcom Blue Epitomizes artisanal cheese. Creamy, fullbodied wheel touts classic blue cheese flavor achieving the hallmark pockets of tangy flavor.
Farmstead A mellow creamy cheese with a tang like cheddar, but a unique rich, buttery finish. It has incredible melting properties and is a wonderful cheese to cook with.
March – June 2019 | 31
MAE FINE FOODS:
Love Transcends in Artisan Bonbons by Kelli Colaco
M
"The joy that rises in people's faces when they taste Mae Bonbons is why we do what we do. My wife Melinda was the sweetest thing in my life, my best friend, and the center of our family. Our love for her fuels everything we make."
- Rich Elwell
Mae Fine Foods Owner, Pastry Chef
AE FINE FOOD BONBONS came to being in the name of love. Like love, Mae Bonbons
mate and create a beautiful life together. When Melinda was diagnosed with brain cancer in 2012 and given 18 months to
have a reputation for embodying vibrant appearance and flavor, nuance, and whimsy; clearly to be treasured and rather addictive. Mae Fine Foods Owner and Pastry Chef Rich Elwell of Buckeye AZ met his soon to be wife Melinda their freshman year of college.
live, Rich did not hesitate to put his life on hold. He immediately walked away from his 20-year successful packaging company, to take care of his beloved wife. When Melinda passed in November of 2016, Rich and his children wanted to create a positive way to combat the intense grief and emptiness her absence created. The newly abbreviated family felt a collective inspiration to commemorate Melinda’s spirit into something as wonderful as Melinda Ann Elwell was to each of them.
The two soon married and became nurturing parents to their three (now near grown) children Richie 21, Angela 18 and Dominic 15. Melinda and Rich embodied what most people dream of, the blessing of getting to marry your soul
Chocolate Showpiece by Executive Pastry Chef Thierry Delourneaux
With a well-known passion for the sweet things in life, Melinda had always dreamed of opening a chocolate shop. Rich could think of no better way to celebrate his wife than to teach himself, a longtime foodie-home chef, to be a pastry chef and chocolatier, so that he could do just that. With a collaborative effort incorporating Rich’s new pastry skills, partners Adalberto Castellanos and Lisa Urrabazo, assistance from his children,
Passion Fruit Mango
32 | CWmag.com
input from former packaging company associates and essential guidance from Food and Beverage Consultant/ Executive Pastry Chef, Vanessa Bogojel, Mae Fine Foods took flight. Today, Mae Bonbons, who source their ingredients exclusively from The Chefs’ Warehouse, are considered truly exceptional, handmade confections (at palatable price point by top pastry professionals nationwide. Mae Bonbons offer a 180-day shelf life.
Suspended Vanilla
Hazelnut
Executive Pastry Chef Lance Whipple
Executive Pastry Chef Thierry Delourneaux
of Four Seasons Resort
of AZ Biltmore
Scottsdale, at Troon North
Waldorf Astoria Resorts
Chef Lance is an F.S. veteran of 15 years. After graduating from the Western Culinary Institute in Portland Oregon and a serving an internship at acclaimed Gary Danko’s in SF, Chef Whipple went on to obtain a degree in Hotel Administration from The University of Las Vegas while serving as Master Cook at Caesar’s Palace.
▶ Pastry Chef Reputation: ▷ I'm known for lots of textures and big flavors in my desserts. I keep my desserts not sugary sweet so the flavors can stand out more.
▶ Chief Inspiration: ▷ My kids. I find myself having to become someone to look up to. Without that pressure I would not be who I am.
▶
What is it about Mae Bonbons that you feel exemplifies the high end, luxury nature of you as an Executive Pastry Chef and The Four Seasons. ▷ Anything being used at the Four Seasons must be top quality and consistent, Mae Bonbons fit the bill. Their Bonbons are extremely high quality with the flavor and shine. The consistency of Mae Bonbons chocolate and packaging are some-
Coffee Lovers
thing amazing. I love supporting local businesses so when I saw Mae Fine Foods was Arizona based, I knew I wanted to start supporting them.
▶ Signature Sweet: ▷ All desserts can
be special but a wedding cake has the chance to become something more. I've seen many couples get emotional when they see how beautiful the wedding I have created for them is. It's hard to beat that moment.
▶ Edible Extraordinaire: I'm big into lobby decor at Christmas. This year I created two edible nutcrackers that stood 6 feet tall each and next year I have bigger plans!
▶ Why pastry: ▷ The creativity in pastry is literally endless and every day is a new challenge.
Orange
Known for his distinctive creativity and passion, Thierry Delourneaux boasts 28 years in the upscale pastry ‘game.’ With a Masters in Pastry by The Paris Chamber of Commerce, while working at Chamarre Patisserie in Paris, Chef Thierry’s C.V. glistens with merits at the finest venues including: The Ritz Carlton (McLean, VA) The St. Regis (Washington D.C), The Grand Del Mar Hotel in San Diego, The Fairmont and Swisshotel Singapore, the legendary Rainbow Room in NYC, not to mention being the creative genius behind the dessert offerings at the 64th Annual Golden Globe Awards in 2007.
▶ What has you stand out? ▷ My creativity, leadership skills and ability to awaken the taste buds. My creations stand out as Chichifoofoo!
warding and life-changing experience because of the people, culture, and recognition I received.
▶ An Extraordinary Creation: ▷ I was tasked to create a dessert
▶ Why pastry? ▷ I fell in love with
the first cake I ever made, a pineapple upside down cake, in the firstbaking lesson in home economics class on the island of Guadeloupe. I’ve been baking ever since.
that would cost more than $1,000; a creation that includededible gold and all organic products; a multi-phased experience involving melting a chocolate sphere with a smoky lavender smell
▶ Shaping experiences? ▷ When I worked at the
▶ What is it about Mae Bonbons? ▷ Mae Bonbons is a very good
legendary LENOTRE Patisserie in Montreal; where I really sharpened my skills. Also, opening The Grand Del Mar Hotel in San Diego. Opening a new hotel resort had always been one of my dreams. Not to mention working in Singapore with The Fairmont Hotel and the Swisshotel, was a re-
product. They are consistent and similar to my own. Anything else: Well, everyone knows that when I’m not in the kitchen, I am on the dance floor as I am a salsa dancer, it is my stress reliever.
▷
White Chocolate Lemon
March – June 2019 | 33
Di Stefano Cheeses
‘By The Book!’
"Until I discovered Di Stefano, I had never been able to find burrata with the rich, creamy flavor like that I first tasted and fell in love with in Italy."
- Nancy Silverton
Di Stefano, a family owned cheese company in Southern California has a lifetime of experience, tradition and passion for making cheese. Di Stefano’s boutique-style cheese company is dedicated to making fresh burrata, mozzarella, mascarpone, ricotta, Samorza and Caciocavallo and known for being the most authentic, award-winning fresh cheeses available in the US. 34 | CWmag.com
A conversation with the ever lively and dynamic Mimmo Bruno, the man who introduced Burrata to America. What was it about cheesemaking with your father in Puglia that got you so interested in the artisan craft as a young boy? The science behind it. The way the milk could be transformed into cheese. Did you choose to start your business in California due to its similarity to your homeland of beautiful Puglia in Southern Italy? I actually moved to LA in the early ’90s with no intention of starting a cheese company. However, when I tasted the fresh mozzarella that was being sold at that time I couldn’t believe how bad the quality was. I visited a gentleman from Sicily who was making fresh mozzarella and I asked him why the cheese tasted so different from back home in Italy. He said it was because the milk is not the same. I thought to myself, ‘milk is milk!’ So I challenged myself to prove him wrong. I went home and made my own fresh mozzarella using local milk and it tasted delicious just like I used to make with my father.
in the afternoon. She was making bread for her restaurant Campanile at the time. She tasted my Burrata and fell in love with it. She was the first chef to put Burrata on her menu. We have been friends and business associates ever since. She is a wonderful person, very down to earth, very artistic and communicative. It took this creative and ambitious American girl to show the world how it is done! Di Stefano’s secret to great Burrata? It’s got to be fresh and the milk should be local. And never ever be packed in water! Just like you can’t have wine
sit in water, or truffles sit in water, or rinsed with chlorine, you can’t have these practices for authentic fresh Italian cheeses! It kills the flavor. You would be surprised how many cheese companies do this to save money. Originally, Burrata was packed in an Asphodel leaf, a leaf native to my homeland of Puglia Italy. This leaf was used to indicate the freshness of the cheese. When fresh, the blade would be green, after a few days, the leaf would dry up, indicating the burrata was no longer fresh. Thanks to modern pasteurizing and our fresh ingredients, Di Stefano burrata lasts much longer. Our oldest son Stefano went to Israel to bring to life his invention of 2-ounce portion control cups, Burrata molds (similar to a yogurt cup but shaped to fit the fresh cheese perfectly) that keep the cheese integrity without storing it in water.
Your beautiful immediate family work for Di Stefano cheeses. What is your secret to running a successful and dynamic family business? It is a challenge having a family business sometimes. The secret is for everyone to have their own responsibilities so that we don’t step on each other’s toes. What sets Di Stefano apart from its competitors? Our cheeses are still made by hand. We source milk from our from our own cows and work directly with our own farmers. We never cut corners. Our cheeses are made just how I was taught in Puglia by my father. I learned the hard way as a kid. If I didn’t get it right I’d get a punch in the face! Or a kick to the head. No kidding! The only way to get it right is to do it by the book!
The Di Stefano Burrata Nancy Silverton Connection? Burrata originated from a small area of Apulia region not far from where I was born. It a very regional type of cheese. There are still places in Italy that do not know what Burrata is believe it or not. I began introducing chefs in California to our Burrata in the early 1990s and no one was interested (because it wasn’t a known product!) Except for one, the now globally renown chef, restauranteur, and purveyor Nancy Silverton. ‘I will never forget (the day I met Nancy at her La Brea kitchen. It was 4:20 pm
BOTTOM LEFT: Mimmo, Mimma, Raffi, Danielle, Alessandro and Stefano Bruno, RIGHT: Mimmo Bruno and longtime friend and Di Stefano advocate Nancy Silverton.
March – June 2019 | 35
The Chefs’ Warehouse Magazine, West Coast 1250 Whipple Rd, Union City, CA 94587
Butter Beautiful. with Francois Mellet CW’s Corporate Pastry Chef CW BEGAN WITH BUTTER. Therefore, it is only fitting that we kick butter up a notch by providing not only the finest butter, with our Private Label Grand Reserve Butter, but also the ability to make butter simply beautiful with our Butter Transfers brought to you by and Francois Mellet and his talented R&D team.
Wow your table guests with CW Grand Reserve Butter and our original selection of gorgeous transfer sheets, part of the selection of new décor we introduced in the Pastry Catalog Q4 2018. And customize! Get your own custom logo on a sheet designed by you.
Butter Beautiful
with CW Butter Transfer Sheets. Up your butter presentation in 5-easy steps.
1
Place transfer on flat surface making sure the cocoa butter design is facing up. Place a frame around the transfer sheets.
Warm up Grand Reserve Butter to 31 Celsius/88 Fahrenheit, emulsify well.
Using a pallet knife, spread a thin layer of butter on top of the transfer sheet, add remaining butter to your desired thickness, and place in freezer
2 3
4
Once frozen, remove carefully the transfer sheets from the butter and place in the refrigerator to fully defreeze.
5
Remove from the fridge and cut to desired size.
We named it Grand Reserve for a reason! Grand Reserve Butter is USDA AA rated, (the highest butter rating), originates from small farms in Wisconsin and New England, is OU Kosher from certified dairies and is always made fresh, never frozen! Grand Reserve is also distinct for being a European style butter, created by using a slower churning movement (originated in Europe), which creates a far creamier texture than standard high grade butters.
Photo by, Andrew Steelman.