FALL EDITION 2020, VOL. 13
CW SOCAL
RIPE FOR THE PICKING
& LODGE BREAD
SILVER LININGS &
DOUGH STARTERS
with Vegas's James Trees
THE LADIES OF
TARTINE &
les vergers Boiron
Photo credit: Yasmin Alishav for Lodge Bread L.A.
and Renata's Nick Ford
The 4th Type of Chocolate
AND:
BOB'S RED MILL
MONINI
THE RIGHT SQUID
SABATINO TARTUFI
VERMONT CREAMERY
Bringing North America Back to the Table t goes without saying, 2020 so far has been the most difficult time I’ve seen in the 25 years I’ve been in the foodservice business. However, reviewing the myriad of incomprehensible losses, or getting mired down in uncertainty is counter-intuitive to us moving forward together, towards that light that is slowly starting to appear,on the not too distant horizon.
I
As with all crises, regardless of how daunting, we are challenged to summon the strongest character within ourselves and to channel our unique forms of resilience. From what I have witnessed, it is the customer, who has embraced the situation and focused their energy on being creative and rebuilding their business, who have been the most successful in surviving the current catastrophe that is COVID-19. I am not speaking of a thriving business, but one strong enough to attract customers, pay the bills and retain employees; to survive, to get through.
By Bruce Luong CW Executive Vice President West Coast and Canada
present on our operations side, as well. I am exceedingly impressed with our ability to be more nimble and proactive than our competition. Because of this, I believe CW will bounce back faster and stronger than ever. The silver lining to this experience is the new perspective we have gained. When in crisis we come together.
The unwavering good news is that we are social animals. People want to go out and enjoy eating and drinking together and supporting their local restaurants, bakeries, and food trucks. Summoning our creativity to create a safe environment for our customers to enjoy dining out is paramount to us getting past the obstacles and perils we are currently presented with.
Our strength and sense of community rise above and beyond. From a CW standpoint, despite the immense challenges and loss, this pandemic has brought our great national company closer together. It has never been more apparent than when we look to each other for strength and ideas. When we lean on each other and remind ourselves that we're all in this together, we can endure anything.
On the foodservice distribution side, we are very fortunate with our employees who have been understanding, professional, and adaptable during these unprecedented times. Beyond this, they have been remarkably generous with their time and energy, often going beyond the call of duty to help fill the void of lack of sales and customers. This level of commitment and loyalty has been
I know this experience of unity and resilience resonates with you and your restaurants, businesses, and families. When we get to the other side of this, we will be empowered together by our invaluable relationships and potential. One day at a time, together, we will bring North America "back to the communal table."
Fall Issue CANADA 18
SAN FRANCISCO
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NorCal (And SoCal) coveted Tartine Bakery and Manufactory spotlights two bright-spark female pastry chefs, surviving and thriving, healing, and inspiring – with the magic of the finest bread and pastry.
SOCAL A breathtaking view of Edmonton and Calgary's restaurant scene offering insight and attitude.
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LAS VEGAS
PNW
22
16
The Ladies of Tartine
James Beard Finalist Chef/ Owner James Trees on his devotion to his people and his flours.
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TEXAS CW Southwest gets "fresh" with exciting farmer's market produce offerings, and Lodge Bread company.
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Houston hot spot Postino fires up connectivity with pop art, cool beats, and addictive bites.
INGREDIENT FEATURES Portland’s Renata PDX Chef de Cuisine Nick Ford discusses Pizza, Protests, and PPE.
Bob's Red Mill, Callebaut, Les Vergers Boiron, Monini, Sabatino Tartufi, SeaFresh USA, and Vermont Creamery.
New & Notable JAMBON DE PARIS from Fabrique Délices One of the best Parisian style hams available – rich and delicate. Lean, low-fat whole-muscle pork slowly sous-vide, carefully seasoned, and perfect for slicing. For sandwiches, croque monsieur, quiches, pizza topping, party trays, antipasto platters, appetizers & breakfast dishes.
...EVEN MORE from Vermont Creamery With 82% butterfat Vermont Creamery’s Cultured Butter with Sea Salt and Cultured Butter Unsalted are simply perfection. And Vermont Creamery’s Creme Fraiche is deliciously rich cultured cow’s cream with a thick, creamy texture and slightly tart nutty flavor.
RUBY DECORATIONS from Mona Lisa Unleash your creativity with the 4th chocolate as Mona Lisa takes the next steps and creates a full palette of decorations for you to add uniqueness, flavour, texture and shape to your chocolates and pastries. Add sparkling colour and the delightful taste of ruby.
AWESOME BURGER from Sweet Earth Why Awesome? Because it tastes great! Made primarily from pea-protein – no soy, which can be overly filling – but not with The Awesome Burger's wonderful, rich flavor. It's actually hard to tell it’s not beef.
FOLLOW US @WhereChefsShop
SAN FRANCISCO
F R E S H PE R S PEC T I V E S
The Ladies of Tartine
Tartine Bakery San Francisco CA Lead Pastry Chef Kristina Costa
TARTINE BAKERY & TARTINE MANUFACTORY
By Kelli Colaco ORCAL CW REP EXTRAORDINAIRE MARCIA LITTLE first met and starting doing business with Tartine Founder/Owners Chad Robertson (Baker), and Elisabeth Prueitt (Pastry Chef), 20 some odd years ago when they opened their bakery in downtown Mill Valley, CA. They became fast friends. Marcia shares, "If asked what singular thing has made them so successful I would have to say it's them, Liz and Chad as a team and how they treat their employees who all become a family with one common cause,’ to create a thoughtful expression of modern craft through good food and warm experiences."
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Now with three Tartine venues in Norcal, three in SoCal, and five in Seoul Korea, Liz and Chad’s integral dream of "Tartine," has proved a fertile one. Marcia offers, "When they began in Mill Valley it was Liz making cakes and Chad doing the bread, this, of course, has changed and they now have teams of people and a lot of new young talent, doing this for them." To get a fresh perspective on the ever-rising franchise, CW Mag had the pleasure of speaking with two of Tartine’s "young and talented," Lead Pastry Chef Kristina Costa (Tartine Bakery), and Sous Pastry Chef Kristen Sinclair (Tartine Manufactory). 4 | ChefsWarehouse.com
Lead Pastry Chef (Tartine Bakery) Kristina Costa, originally from New Jersey, fell in love with the Tartine Cookbook which led to an apprenticeship as a baker. This was followed by her attending culinary school at AB Tech in North Carolina which utilizes the same curriculum at The Culinary Institute of America. Having studied sculpture at Skidmore College in upstate New York, Kristina’s affinity for Tartine’s unique, "rustic but beautiful" pastries and breads was born organically. Costa shared, "Tartine was my example for what a pastry should look like. You can tell that there is tons of craftsmanship behind everything they do. Pastries are something special that people experience. It’s important to create something beautiful to capture that moment." In this bizarre time of quarantines, postponements, cancellations and shut downs, finding pleasure in simple, albeit extraordinary treasures like Tartine’s artisan bread and pastry have taken center stage in the lucky neighborhoods they occupy. Kristina commented "We’re selling a surprising amount of cakes! It has been really nice to that we can provide something for people to celebrate any opportunity right now." On Tartine’s current state of the game and survival tactics, Costa shared: "We streamlined the menu
so that we can operate with fewer people in the kitchen which also keeps us from having to work shoulder to shoulder. It was especially hard at first but now it just ‘the new normal." Commenting on Tartine’s full circle philosophy of seasonality and working with local farmers and millers, Kristina shared how she personally contributes to this in her role as Lead Pastry Chef. "Being from the East Coast, I never knew that there were different varietals of strawberries all with different types of flavors or blueberries that are all different colors and so beautiful. Even now when we’re selling around 50% of what we normally do, I couldn't sleep at night if I wasn't continuing to buy all of the various groups available to me now from our farmers." "Last week fresh local blueberries came in, and we all stood around tasting them and we all agreed during these times, these fresh berries tasted like hope. They actually give us hope." It's so important that we’re supporting our local farms and the fresher the better. And we know these farmers have core values, that they pay all of their workers a living wage. This is so important, especially now when essential workers are not necessarily taken care of the way that they should be and so many are risking their health so that they can work. In such challenging times, the proverbial "silver lining" for many venues has been the underlying sense of community and gratitude for the opportunity to work, despite all of the risks and challenges that the pandemic presents. Costa shared, "Most of us don't live near our families. Both the general manager here and I believe that this is our family now." As our conversation wrapped up, Kristina drew attention to the laughter she
"Last week, fresh local blueberries came in, and we all stood around tasting them and agreed during these times, these fresh berries tasted like hope. They actually give us hope." had been hearing coming from the kitchen throughout our call. She concluded, "It’s a very precious thing that we have so much conversation and laughter here every day despite all that’s going on. It’s exhausting work. I work my team really hard. Your feet are sore, your hands are sore… So much goes into it, and that is what makes it all so gratifying."
Ladies of Tartine, continues on next page. Fall 2020 | 5
THE LADIES OF TARTINE, cont. from pg. 5
Tartine Manufactory San Francisco, CA Pastry Sous Chef, Kristen Sinclair aving joined the team of Tartine Manufactory by what Pastry Sous Chef, Kristen Sinclair describes as "a bit of luck," the former veteran restaurant server, (who trained at SF City College, Culinary School), highlights her gratitude for the limitless possibility for growth that working at Tartine Manufactory offers.
H
Kristen shares, "Tartine is a company that really wants to reward employees and bring them up and encourage people to grow and learn new things. You don't have to have the most experience technically. It’s about work ethic and mindset and being willing to take the time to learn it to the standard of the business." Sinclair commented on Tartine’s commitment to keep their prized bread and pastries available to their customers throughout the pandemic, "We've stayed open throughout the entirety of COVID. In March, when, when the big scare was happening, we were very happy to see that our customers were still out there forming lines, especially for bread." Getting creative about how to fiscally survive the crisis was paramount to Tartine’s survival. Kristen explains, "We started doing ready to bake items. We sold cookie dough and scone dough that was par-baked so customers could bring it home to bake off fresh. This was something new for us and we saw a lot of appreciation from our customers." Dependability being at the heart of every surviving and thriving business relationship, Kristen highlighted Tartine’s nearly two decade liaison with CW Rep. Marcia Little. "We're able to get certain things with CW that we wouldn’t be able to with other vendors. For example, we produce our own special Chocolate Batons for our Chocolate Croissants through Valrhona. So we've been able to have a partnership through Chefs Warehouse, and Valrhona, which is amazing." Working with esteemed bakeries and venues such as Tartine Bakery and Tartine Manufactory, and playing a part in the magic they create is at the heart of The Chefs’ Warehouse mission: To offer the best ingredients to the best chefs and pastry chefs in the U.S. and Canada. Never was it more clear that every ingredient counts, from farmer to purveyor, distributor to pastry chef, and finally to the grateful recipient who gets to have their cake and eat it too.
Join our stories on Facebook at:
/chefswarehouse
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Bob’s Red Mill is founded in providing a bounty of stone-ground, whole grain, organic, gluten free, and paleo-friendly flours fit for any kitchen.
GluteN Free Raspberry Jam Biscuits
By Whitney Barnes for Bob’s Red Mill THE IDEA FOR THESE BISCUITS was inspired by a local Pacific Northwest mainstay, Grand Central Bakery. We’ve reimagined them with our favorite gluten free buttermilk biscuit recipe and homemade chia jam. These simple buttermilk biscuits are made with our Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour and baked with a dollop of homemade, omega-3 packed raspberry chia jam. We suggest splitting them open while they’re still warm and serving with a bit of butter and even more raspberry jam.
Yield: Prep Time: Cook Time:
12 biscuits 30 minutes 35 minutes
Ingredients Raspberry Chia Jam • • • •
3 Cups fresh or frozen Raspberries (370 g) 1/4 Cup Maple Syrup (60 mL) 1/4 Cup Organic Chia Seeds (50 g) 1/2 tsp Vanilla Extract (2.5 g)
Biscuits • • • • • •
2 ½ cups Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour (370 g) 2 ½ tsp Baking Powder (10 g) ½ tspBaking Soda (2 g) 2 tsp Sugar (10 g) 1 tsp Salt (5 g) ½ cup Unsalted Butter chilled and cut into 1/4-inch cubes (113 g)
• 2 large Eggs (100 g) • ¾ cup Buttermilk (177.5 mL)
Instructions Prep the Raspberry Jam: Combine raspberries and maple syrup in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat until berries begin to soften and burst, about 5 minutes. Add chia seeds and cook until very thick, about 15 minutes. Stir often. Remove from heat and let cool then add vanilla extract. Store excess jam in the refrigerator in an air-tight container for up to 7 days.
Make the Biscuits: Preheat oven to 450° F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Cut in butter with a pastry blender until the texture resembles very small pebbles. In a small bowl, briskly stir together both eggs and buttermilk. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Stir until a soft dough forms. Dough will be slightly wet. Turn dough out onto a large piece of parchment paper. Sprinkle lightly with a bit more gluten-free flour and roll or pat dough to ½ inch thick.
Cut dough with a 2-inch round biscuit cutter, pressing straight down (don't twist). If dough sticks, dip the cutter into gluten free flour between each biscuit. Using your thumb, lightly press a well into the center of each biscuit. Fill with 1 tsp of chia jam. Place biscuits on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 15-16 minutes or until tops are golden brown. Remove from oven and cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes.
Fold dough in half, then fold in half again. If needed, sprinkle with more gluten free flour then roll or pat dough to 1 inch thick. Fall 2020 | 7
Passion Fruit Bavarian Cake with Boiron Passion Fruit & Lime Purees
Nothing highlights excellence more than the company it keeps. North America’s top craftsman Tartine Bakery (Bay Area, LA, Seoul) well known for their discriminating taste, careful selection of local and integrally produced ingredients, and for their highly treasured bread and pastry offerings, chooses Boiron as their fruit puree of choice. On the subject of "passion," Lead Pastry Chef, Kristina Costa
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(Tartine Bakery, SF), fittingly incorporates Boiron’s vibrant and refreshing Passion Fruit and Lime Purees in Tartine’s beautiful Passion Fruit Bavarian Cake. Pastry Chef Costa shares, "Boiron purees are great because they are always a naturally vibrant color and they really highlight the flavor of the fruit."
Boiron, A Passion For Fruit. SINCE THE BEGINNING OF LES VERGERS BOIRON, there was a passion for fruit. Originating in the Ardeche Region of France back 1942, now located in Valence, Drôme, the familial generated company is known for creating the fruit processing activity of heat-treating specifically to each fruit, followed by deep freezing, which is still the best technique today for keeping the distinct flavor, texture and freshness of each fruit intact. Today, Boiron offers over 55 flavors of frozen fruit purées, all 100% all-natural, GMO-free and containing no preservatives, additives, or thickening agents. Les vergers Boiron experts select only the finest varieties of fruit from the best regions worldwide. The fruits are harvested at maturity, undergo a unique blending technique which guarantees product consistency throughout the seasons.
This consistency, a Boiron trademark, along with the vital, natural flavor of their fruit purees is signature to them being the prized favorite of the greatest pastry chefs around the world.
“
76 years ago, my grandfather founded the company Boiron Frères SA. As the inventors of frozen fruit puree, we have continued to innovate by developing our range to support pastry chefs, cooks, and bartenders from all over the world daily with excellent fruit solutions. Aware of what a privilege it was to take charge of the company in 1990, I continue the expansion of the business with passion.” – Alain Boiron
Passion Fruit Puree Exotic, refreshing and delicious! This versatile passion fruit puree is made from meticulously selected fruit.
Citron Vert Puree Made from fresh limes harvested and frozen at their peak, this lime puree has citrusy tart flavor, and wonderful bright color.
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Fall 2020 | 9
AN ECCENTRIC GIFT FROM NATURE:
THE 4TH TYPE A
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fter dark, milk and white chocolate, ruby is the most extraordinary discovery in 80 years. This 4th type surprises with a completely new taste and color – purely natural from the ruby cocoa bean – without adding any colorants or fruit flavorings.
Why is ruby the 4th type? After dark, milk and white chocolate, ruby stands out with its distinct, fruity taste and extravagant color. It owes these characteristics fully to the unique ruby cocoa beans selected. Just like with dark, milk and white chocolate, no colorants or flavorings are added.
How does ruby taste? Very different from any other chocolate in the world, ruby has a fruity, berry-like taste with fresh, sour notes. The taste itself comes from the cocoa beans selected. Delicate processing of the beans preserves these fruity-sour flavors.
Where do the ruby taste and color come from? Discovered first by accident, Callebaut’s chocolate makers found out that unique components, naturally present in cocoa beans, yield chocolate with an exceptional red-pink color and fruity taste. Everything pointed towards the precursors in a specific type of bean: the ruby cocoa bean. Identifying the ruby cocoa beans – which hold plenty of these precursors – and finding the best way to process the beans during chocolate making has taken years of research in collaboration with the Jacobs University in Germany. After more than a decade, Callebaut’s chocolate makers and cocoa experts cracked it and finetuned the selection and processing of the right cocoa beans. With ruby RB1, Callebaut composed the first ruby couverture dedicated to chefs.
Where are the ruby cocoa beans grown? They’re grown in the traditional cocoa growing countries Brazil, Ecuador and Ivory Coast. Neither genus or origin determine the qualification for a cocoa bean to be a ruby bean. It’s the inside of the beans that counts. The natural occurrence of the sought-after precursors determines whether a cocoa bean will yield the typical ruby color and taste during processing. Exactly those beans are selected to make ruby.
CREATE WITH RUBY callebaut.com/en/createwithruby
How to work and create with ruby? There are a few simple rules of thumb when working with ruby. Melting, tempering, molding, enrobing, etc. are completely comparable to working with dark, milk or white chocolate. Callebaut chefs recommend using ruby as pure as possible, and avoid mixing it with creams, milk or water-based ingredients. The latter bring down the higher acidity of ruby, which may lead to dilution of its typical taste and color. In short: ruby is simply great in bars, tablets, bonbons, hollow figures, coffee treats, ruby dipped pastries, cookies and ice creams.
RUBY BROWNIE RECIPE bit.ly/rubybrownie
Which flavors work with ruby?
Ruby is exceptional for guests and customers to taste and enjoy as such in a variety of applications. It can be combined with traditional fruits such as dried raspberries, passion fruit, nuts, beetroot, etc. Because of its unique and different taste profile, ruby opens up to completely new pairings as well. Exactly this makes ruby an exceptional product that appeals to a new audience of centennials and millennials. They’re eager to explore new sensations and love the high Instagram-appeal of ruby.
MORE RUBY RECIPES bit.ly/rubyrecipes
Fall 2020 | 11
SOCAL
Ripe for the Picking CW Southwest's exciting new Farmer’s Market Produce distribution Regional Vice President, Southwest, Tina Roberts is a force to be reckoned with, one of those visionary, go-getter types who spots an opportunity in areas where others get intimidated. (Did we mention she also owns and operates submarines for a hobby?) Therefore, when Tina decides it’s time for CW SoCal to offer local, farmer’s market quality produce (in SoCal and Arizona), you better believe it’s happening, like… yesterday (since May 25, 2020 to be exact).
Of course, it takes a veritable CW village to make the best products and produce available to our beloved chefs on the West Coast (and beyond)! Tina’s right-hand man, CW SoCal Sales Manager, Justin Lawson, who’s been on the ground floor of the produce distribution development since the “get-go,” gave us the grassroots of how CW SoCal Farmer’s Market Produce distribution got growing. Justin shared, “During COVID everything ground to a halt. Fortunately, we’ve used our time to come up with new ideas. Tina got the brainstorm to grow our produce division (at first a modest ‘business to consumer’ effort). Initially, we were talking about doing it in CW L.A.’s new warehouse once complete (starting the end of 2020). We then got the big idea to just make it happen sooner rather than later and we improvised a system that would work in the interim.” To highlight recent growth, Justin offered: “We sold over 294 different items in the past two
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week period. This is indicative of the interest level that's budding with our customers.” Creating a team of respected experts in specific categories is essential to CW’s winning formula. Justin communicated the value and jump in interest chefs expressed when CW SoCal enrolled longtime produce expert (and former SoCal farmer), Casey Kramer as their first Sales Representative for CW Produce. Justin shared: “Casey brought a lot of great customers with him and having his experience, reputation, and known ‘passion for produce,’ on the CW SoCal Produce team really validated the program. When I called vendors and shared that Casey Kramer was working on the CW team, they jumped on board. Casey’s presence cemented that we weren't just trying to muscle our way into a new category. We were bringing experience, and making it clear that we were going to do this right.”
Henry Nicholls, another very respected Farmer’s Market veteran, has also been invaluable spearheading the produce campaign and launching the idea of a future CW SoCal Farmer’s Market off the ground. Justin generously shares CW SoCal’s current process for produce distribution: “We select and bring product to our warehouse from several different vendors and growers across the region (including the Santa Monica Farmers Market). We warehouse it overnight. Our Sales Reps put in orders up until 9 pm. And finally, we have a team of selectors that pull the product each night and put it on the trucks.”
“To add to this,” Justin shared, “if we're out of something. We have a separate team that goes to the LA market that same night and picks up product to ensure our chefs get what they need. It’s pretty neat that we're able to pull that off.” Despite the looming array of crisis in the air, it’s uplifting to recognize the West Coast’s year-round blessing of seasonal-local produce. Now with SoCal CW making it even easier for our customers to take advantage of the bounty (from Santa Barbara to San Diego, to Palm Springs and throughout Arizona), the culinary treasure “du jour” is ripe for the picking.
Staying Essential
LOS ANGELES
Lodge Bread in L.A. Highlighting SoCal CW’s growing list of impressive chef/pastry chef customers now receiving local produce directly from CW, we zone in on local LA gem, Lodge Bread. Owned and operated by “brother-like” friends, Or Amsalam and Alexander Phaneuf, the “salt of the earth” vibed restauranteurs, and have a long enduring relationship with CW Produce Rep. Casey Kramer.
Low Down on Lodge Bread with Or Amsalam “We started the bakery in 2014 out of our backyard. Then we built the business into a brick and mortar spot in Culver City. We specialized in whole grain, naturally fermented sourdough breads and pastries.” (Lodge Bread also offers insanely delicious artisan-crafted pizza, salads and “sammies,” etc. etc.)
Lodge Bread's Naturally Fermented Sourdough topped with farmer's market sourced radish and avocado from CW SoCal.
“Our customers are pretty loyal. It's been nice to see that they support us, even if we can’t offer to dine in. Luckily enough, what we offer in our bakery are essential, everyday items for people. Bread and coffee and pastries is something that people need on a daily and weekly basis. It's really hard to see our colleagues in the restaurant industry suffer through this hard time. We've adapted slightly and turned ourselves into more of a marketplace that caters to people's everyday needs, making us almost like a one-stop-shop. We try and offer items that people will take home and keep in the fridge or in the pantry, like nut butters, butter, eggs and avocados, peaches (obtained from CW SoCal Produce). We do our best to help people out as well. At the beginning of COVID, it was really tough to get certain things. It was easier for us to get them for our people who didn't want to go to the store. Catering to those needs really helped us. We've done this with our sister restaurant (Kosher hummus focused), Hasiba, over on Pico Blvd. as well.” Lodge Bread, Owner/Operators: Or Amsalam and Alexander Phaneuf
Fall 2020 | 13
Customers are excited when they see the word TRUFFLE on a menu.
Sabatino TartufiÂŽ has the largest truffle manufacturing plant in the United States located in West Haven, Connecticut, and another manufacturing plant in their home town of Terni, Italy. The family-owned company established itself in 1911 and proudly services restaurants around the world with both fresh and preserved truffles.
Your customers know that truffles are a special experience and are prepared to pay for it. For the Chef, truffle products are an affordable and approachable addition to the plate, resulting in high-profit margins. This price breakdown will help you visualize the proper amount of truffle products for your dish:
TRUFFLE SAUCE
TRUFFLE ZESTÂŽ
(TARTUFATA)
Truffle seasoning
Salsa tartfata
A savory and earthy blend (pestolike consistency) of summer truffles, button mushrooms, parsley, and olive oil.
The revolutionary Truffle Zest is a black summer truffle powdered seasoning. Low calorie and low sodium.
Item#: 10295156 Size: 14 oz
Item#: 10355446 Size: 5.29 oz
Suggested yield per serving:
Suggested yield per serving:
Pizza
Burgers
Dressing
Mac & Cheese
Pizza
French Fries
170g Serving: 2-2.5% Cost per serving: $0.20 - $0.25
113g Serving: 3-4% Cost per serving: $0.20 - $0.27
85g Serving: 5-6% Cost per serving: $0.25 - $0.30
170-200g Serving: .50-1% Cost per serving: $0.14 - $0.28
170g Serving: 1-1.5% Cost per serving: $0.20 - $0.30
113-120g Serving: 2-3% Cost per serving: $0.31 - $0.46
To learn more about truffles and for recipe inspiration, please visit: sabatinotruffles.com
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HOUSTON
Come Together, Postino of Montrose Montrose is an offbeat neighborhood of Houston, TX, known for its gay bars, vintage stores, hip indie art galleries, and eclectic mix of eateries. The perfect “canvas” for Postino, an upbeat, fun and “board” forward “wine cafe” (franchise) who’s first venue rose to success in a renovated old post office in Phoenix, Arizona (2001). Known for its art and music, bespoke
into high gear. An artist and art lov-
bruschetta and charcuterie inspirations, Postino heartily boasts location individuality and has accrued popular venues in Texas, Arizona, and Colorado.
er in his own right, Michael found his way into culinary while searching for a career that would foster his creative side and pay the bills at the same time. Postino’s arty aesthetic and communal methodology have proven to be an ideal fit for the creative chef.
Postino (Montrose, TX) Executive Chef, Michael Cacpal, trained in culinary in Hawaii, and specializes in Asian Pacific Cuisine. Cacpal moved to Houston in 2004 to kick his career
Chef Cacpal commented on Postino’s unique mission that separates it from many corporate franchises.
LEFT: From Castelvetrano and Bel Aria Gaeta Olives, to Proscuitto De Parma, Coppa, and Smoked Salmon, Dried Turkish Apricots, Fig Jam, Drunken Goat, Mozzarella Rolls, and Queso Romero Sheep Cheese with Rosemary, CW is proud to be a part of Postino’s bright and delightful menu.
Fall 2020 | 15
PORTLAND
PIZZA. PROTESTS. PPE. Perseverence and Renata PDX Chef de Cuisine's Nick Ford by Sean Jeremy Palmer
“That’s where the whole idea for the frozen pizza came into hand,” Nick recalls. “One day we’re messing around saying, ‘Hey, wonder if we could freeze these pizzas so that people can take and bake them at home?' We reached out blindly to a local grocery chain, ‘New Seasons’, and said, ‘Hey we’ve got these frozen pizzas, would you be interested in putting them on your shelves?’” To rush to market, Nick’s team made 3,000 pizzas in ten days. He did that with a team of six. "New Seasons" gave Renata an end cap on one of their freezer aisles, an opportunity that was to last for a month. The overwhelming response from customers has led to success: Renata’s frozen pizzas are now in all 16 of New Seasons and are expanding into other markets. From the flour to the tomato bases, sauces, cheeses that Renata utilizes – are any of those Chefs’ Warehouse? “Uh. All of them are, except the vegetables,” Nick replies.
Times are changing. And for Renata’s Chef de Cuisine Nick Ford, Covid brought immense change to the wood-fired Italian restaurant kitchen he mans in Portland’s Central Eastside. Once sheltering in place restrictions were lifted these considerable changes involved menu adjustments, providing teams with PPE, no contact order pick-up, selling grocery items, meal kits, and partially baked items for customers to take home. 16 | ChefsWarehouse.com
Grande Cheese, mozzarella shreds, fresh mozz, ricotta, provolone, Grana Padano, Caputo Blue, Arbequina California EVOO... “It’s just the access to the quality of the ingredient that makes the best pizza,” Nick says. Beyond Covid, Portland has been hit by multiple crises, rocked by historic levels of protest not seen since the Civil Rights Movement of the 60’s. Nick reflects on the impact it's had to Renata and to himself personally. “When the protests first started, it was an additional traumatic experience – for everybody. Just seeing everybody marching in the streets and – from Covid figured out (how to weather the protests') impact on business. It weighed itself out. And as a company we found ways to contribute. What we actually did during those times, I coordinated with Nathaniel (his CW Sales Rep) on the Provvista/CW
product that was going to waste and converted that into meals to drop off to the protesters."
PORTLAND
"We’d coordinate a drop-off location from a text message and go drop of meals for them after they were done protesting," he continues. "So again – it was another way for us affected to contribute to the change that’s needed in our troubling world. And moving forward for the next generations to come.” So, who is Nick as a Chef? Massachusetts born to an Italian-American family, he was introduced to food at a very young age, preparing Sunday dinners with his great-grandmother, grandmother, and mother, all making fresh pasta on the kitchen table.
“IT’S ALWAYS BEEN A PASSION. It’s always been a love,” Nick says. “I’ve always wanted to be hospitable. I’ve always wanted to be in communities, involved with having people come in, having a good time, getting to know them and their stories. I think that’s how we all really need to connect and understand that we’re all one – here at the same time. And if we can contribute positively every single day to something for the greater good, we need to do that. We hold our relationships with our purveyors very closely. It’s personal. It’s like a telescope into their life; getting to see how and who they are.”
Postino, continued from page 15. Cacpal shared, “When we first moved into this area, the neighbors, and people of Montrose were a little hesitant about coming here. It’s mostly small businesses in Montrose, ‘Mom and Pop’ kind of places. They didn’t want a corporate franchise here. And I get that. But I knew it would work out because Postino is different. We look to be cohesive with our environment. This is very important to us. Eventually the people of Montrose got to know how important it was for us fit in with the community here. We’re not trying to take over, but simply, take part, like keeping the history of our building: the foundation of the area. We try to keep it close to the heart.” Chef Cacpal commented on the simple Postino formula for success, “The owners of Postino really wanted to provide a great vibe and energy: ‘Bringing people together over great ‘boards’ and wines, served by a charismatic, good natured team.’ It’s that simple. It is very important that people leave here having loved their experience and wanting to return for more great food and relaxed vibes.” Cacpal commented on how his team has dealt with the challenges of the pandemic, “Of course, we have employees worried about the situation.
This is normal. But for the most part we just keep a positive attitude, keep our heads down, and follow proper CDC guidelines to get us through this. We're very much here for the community and our staff-family.”
HOUSTON
With the pandemic now stretching into the Fall and Winter season, we asked Chef Michael for his personal forecast for change in this regard. He shared, “I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. We just have to wait it out. We refuse to close at Postino. For us, that is a last resort. As long as everyone follows the rules, we can get over this hump and this light of change will definitely be shining a lot brighter.” When asked what is his inspiration is and where he sources his resilient spirit, Michael shared, “My mother is a very important part of my life. She has given me everything I need and always guided me in the right direction. It is very important for me to praise her and have her know how much I appreciate all she has done for me. She is definitely my inspiration for strength and determination. One day, when I get to the top of my career, I look forward to taking care of her and giving her whatever she may need.”
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alberta:
G O I N G T H E S O C I A L D I S TA N C E
CANADA
FEAST UPON OUR CULINARY SNAPSHOTS FROM THE WILDS OF ALBERTA, where restaurants adapt to the wild landscape created by the crisis with social media – a crucial lifeline between restaurateurs and their invaluable Canadian customers.
IT TAKES A VILLAGE ICE CREAM
CALGARY
Offering scoopfuls of cool, essential comfort Billy Friley, owner of Calgary’s Village Ice Cream’s 3 locations, found triple-scoop success through the contactless curbside pickup of 11 liter (3 gallon) pails. He also donated ice cream packs to local hospitals and frontline works, generously donating 5,905 scoops (and counting). Billy credits his real MVPs: his fantastic, dedicated staff who crush the summer/fall lines each and every day. #VillageIceCream
BANFF
GO BIG, OR GO...
Canada's big attraction...goes biggest! In the heart of world-heritage Banff National Park's world famous Banff Springs Hotel, Canada's "Castle in the Rockies," has changed up how they offer products. Executive Chef Robert Ash and Executive Pastry Chef Lloyd DeSouza’s new concept, "Go Big or Go Home," offers larger-thanlife cinnamon buns. Made with 8-inch cake pans for a single serving that inevitably are Instagram-worthy social media shares. #FairmontHotels #GoBigOrGoHome
CHARBAR. CHARCUT. CHARISMA .
CALGARY
Where the takeaway is: Takeaway Charbar/Charcut Owners/Chefs Connie DeSousa and John Jackson counteract the crisis with ingenuity-in-overdrive. From curbside menu, they next opened up a Detroit-style pizza joint, a concept so popular that our warehouse can’t keep Ezzo pepperoni in stock! Next came their Turntable Brunch concept – bring your own vinyl with pints of Turntable lager. Their innovation meets excellence continues with "Picnik Takeout" coordinated with Calgary’s most sought after summer events in amazing outdoor spaces. @charbar_yyc @charcut
ONE, TWO, THREE, 4296...TEN!
CANMORE
Feeling at home with Family-style Slated to open right when covid hit, 4296’s Owner/Chef Blake Flann and Owner Kale McIvor had a fire as well as Covid which set them back. They’ve now been open 5-weeks and have been sooo successful. Their elevated Asian-fusion concept is garnering wide attention with impeccable and inspired tapas/family-style plates and gorgeous, spacious interior and patio seating have allowed them to socially distance better than expected, with customers feeling great comfort. #4296
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YES, WE KAN YOU CAKE
CALGARY
Alberta's newest bakery is on a roll... Kan You Cake’s Owner/Pastry Chef Kayan Ngan couldn’t have planned a more challenging time to open a new venture, but open she did. She’s risen to the challenge, and her surprising, delightful creations crafted in small batches using sustainable, direct trade and premium ingredients have been offering inspiration aplenty. She believes the quality of the ingredient makes the big difference for the success in the sustainable development in this food industry. We wish her the greatest success. #kanyoucake
BRIDGING THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE
ALBERTA
Canadians helping Canadians. High River Food Rescue helps get surplus food to local charities. Our warehouse donated food and pantry items to fulfill drop-off hampers for families that couldn’t afford groceries. CW Alberta also supports Brown Bagging for Calgary Kids, which dedicates itself to addressing the serious problem of kids going hungry. CW Alberta supplied products so that they could produce sandwiches and cookies for the kids, alongside Callebaut’s Anusha Prabhakar. Rouge Restaurant and Devour Catering have been locations used to prepare the meals amongst several Calgary Chefs donating their time, including Chef Xavier Lacaze and Chef Christine Beard: Over 600+ deliveries, 39+ volunteers. @wildrosecommunityconnections @bb4ck
Why is The Right Squid the Best? Chefs are a lot like us fishing boat captains. We work hard, we’re honest. We like doing what we do. Our jobs are an adventure. We’re more than just a fully-integrated seafood business. We’re a tradition. Our The Right Squid is harvested right here in Pt. Judith, Rhode Island, known as the source for the world's most flavorful calamari. Our clean, pristine squid goes from right off the boat into our state-of-the-art production plant. And it’s not filled with phosphates, which means you're not cheated on weight, giving you an exceptional cooked yield, superior value, and greater flavor and texture. We care about our seas and our squid, which has been awarded a ‘Best Alternative’ rating by the Seafood Watch program. Try us. You'll taste the difference.
Superior flavor, texture, and versatility.
Calamari "Fritti" Elegance is simplicity. Here’s our simple recipe that lets the delicate flavors of our The Right Squid Rhode Island Calamari shine through. 1 lb calamari rings and tenticles 1 cup all purpose flour 1 cup semolina flour Sunflower oil for frying Kosher salt Lemons Heat oil to 350º. Sift flours together. Dredge calamari in flour; sift with large strainer. Fry in hot oil for 3-4 minutes in small batches. Season with Kosher salt and lemon.
Fall 2020 | 19
MONINI'S PATH TO A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE 100 years of history to build a new future The globe and the world of nutrition are facing increasingly complex,
This shared passion extends to our commitment to fight climate
multifaceted challenges. Sustainable development not only concerns
change through actionable steps, starting from the field.
the environmental dimension but also has an important socio-
We invite you to discover our 10-year plan that includes planet-
economic aspect. Unhealthy lifestyles and food safety alerts
friendly packaging solutions, hands-on nutritional education for
undermine individual and collective health and well-being.
school children, and the planting of 1 million new trees: objectives we gave ourselves to create an agricultural model in harmony with
In our first 100 years, we've endured challenges that have led to
the environment, able to preserve all the values of biodiversity:
greater resilience, better choices, and stronger relationships.
monini.com/en/sustainability
Our relationship with The Chefs’ Warehouse is an enduring one that spans decades, forged by two family businesses with a shared
We wish you and your families a steadfast, sustainable recovery.
passion for quality that extends across our teams, families, and customers.
Among Monini's new products are their Monocultivars, an award-winning range of 100% Italian, Organic, varietal EVOOs that stack up like a row of fine Italian wines. How should chefs approach these three high-quality ingredients? Monini's National Sales Manager of Foodservice, Chris Moccia discusses the solutions and opportunities Monini's premium finishing EVOOs provide to the shifting demands of today's restaurant menus. Key among Monini's benefits: Quality and Value.
100% ITALIAN "OUR MONOCULTIVARS represent a unique shift in the olive oil category," says Chris Moccia, Monini Nat'l Sales Manager of Foodservice. And how should chefs utilize them? "Like a choose your own adventure novel," he replies. "You decide. There are no rules."
Frantoio The Perfect Pairing
Coratina Pungent, Spicy
Nocellara The Crowd-Pleaser
With Frantoio you'll perceive intense vegetable aromas: artichoke, thistle, along with notes of green almond. "This cultivar is indigenous to Umbria and perfect for Umbrian or any rustic cuisine," Chris says. "From grilled meats, soups, lentils, to pasta and plant-based cuisine." And though it's a hard choice, Frantoio is also his favorite.
"From the south of Apulia, the Coratina varietal is what makes the GranFruttato grand." Fresh, with intense notes of green almond, rocket, and a spicy hint of white pepper. Chris highlights its uniqueness and rarity, as few companies bottle Cortina. "It's pungent and spicy. Chefs trip their lids over this," he says. "It's super-bitter in the best way with the strength to hold up to a ribeye."
Native to Sicily, the Nocellara aroma is reminiscent of tomato leaves, mown grass, mint and sweet almond. Chris highlights its quality and versatility, "You can do whatever you want with it. It's perfect with any type of seafood" he says. "Not many Italian EVOOs are buttery – but this one is. It's a crowd-pleaser. It's so versatile and well-liked. And it works great with vegetables."
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100% ITALIAN SELECTION FINISHING WITH A BOLD KICK
100% ITALIAN SELECTION FINISHING WITH A DELICATE TOUCH
Premium Coupage VERSATILE, BALANCED, EVERDAY
GranFruttato
Amabile
Originale
GranFruttato is Mr. Monini’s brainchild. Personally sourced by Zefferino, it has unmatched quality standards. "It's fantastic," Chris says. "It's all at once fruity, peppery, fresh, spicy. And perfect for raw vegetable preparations."
Mellow and crafted from late-harvest olives, Amabile has a medium fruity fragrance and a floral, grassy flavor. It's ideal for the chef seeking nuance, subtleties of flavor – who's looking for something that’s not as bold, that's less bitter.
Monini's workhorse does everything. It's versatile, balanced – characterized by its unmistakably Italian taste profile reminiscent of freshly cut grass and almond with a slight peppery finish.
GranFruttato is also your go-to salad dressing oil. With its unmistakable, intense flavor, it also has a convenient pop-up pourer for accurate dosage and improved hygiene.
Amabile pairs great with seafood, like lobster, or a yellow-tail crudo. It also has a convenient pop-up pourer, for accurate dosage and improved hygiene.
Chris says, "Originale's phenomenal packaging – a 7-layer space age bladder and no-drip spout means it's protected from the 3 enemies of olive oil: there's no oxidation, no light penetration, and kept away from heat it stays totally fresh, protecting your bottom line."
METICULOUSLY AGED & HAND -CUT BY MASTER BUTCHERS Fall 2020 | 21
LAS VEGAS
S I LV E R L I N I N G S & D O U G H STAR T E R S Chef/Owner James Trees from Esther’s Kitchen
Having started at The Mirage in Las Vegas before many kids get a driver's license, Chef/Owner James Trees, a 2020 James Beard Award nominee (Best Chef Southwest), has worked with some of the most famous chefs the world over. Trees' choice to return home to be close to family and open his first venue in Las Vegas (Esther’s Kitchen), and hiring some of his oldest friends (and their offspring) as “his crew,” is indicative of why he is notorious for being, “one great human being.”
It's a pleasure to get to be in restaurants and hang out with other chefs because I really do think chefs and cooks are the most interesting people in the world. A 2020 James Beard Finalist Without A Suit “We were going to go the James Beard Awards in NYC (results out September 25, 2020,) which I was really looking forward to because I was going to get a suit. The good news is at least I didn’t buy a suit... It's a ‘win-win’ so far (sarcastic laugh). I work hard my whole life, the year I finally get some recognition and the f-ing world shuts down. This is the dark comedy that is my life.”
The Sense That Everything Matters “I was a young chef at Bradley Ogden’s in L.V. when they won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant back in 2004 (the first James Beard Award in Las Vegas history). It was amazing just being surrounded by so much talent. We had the sense that everything we did mattered. And I would say that’s the one thing that reaches across the arc of my career. I feel like everything we do at Esther’s Kitchen matters. The difference is that Esther’s is completely underfunded, we don't have a bunch of 22-year-old savants who’ve been working at the best restaurants in the world at our disposal. I'm basically getting kids who want to cook and learn the basics and then we're building this really good foundation for them.”
Not The Favorite Kid / The Miseducation Of Celebrity Chefs “I've had great respect for chefs I’ve worked with (Bradley Ogden, Gordon Ramsey, Heston Blumenthal, etc.), and I've seen what greatness can look like. But, I really have to say that, I was never the favorite kid in the kitchen. You know… ‘that guy.’ I was never the ‘special one.’ I've seen it, and I've seen what that does to people. I'll be honest, most often, it breeds laziness, un-thoughtfulness, and uncaring language. I have mentors that I love to death. That I happily burned my arms with duck fat for and ended up in the hospital. And for the most part, I want to be the person who is the evolved version of that.”
COVID Conundrum “I was supposed to cook for Willie Nelson, at The Austin Rock Festival, back in March. I heard things were starting to close down due to COVID, but I was like, ‘No one's gonna close Vegas.’ So I flew to Austin. And as soon as I got there, the festival was canceled. So that became my opportunity to enjoy Austin. Then they closed all the bars and restaurants in Austin, that same day. I'm like, ‘This just makes sense that this would be my vacation.’ I flew back to Vegas literally the same day. The next morning we were told they were going to shut down all Vegas restaurants. I had to layoff my entire staff, minus my managing chefs and
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crew. That was one of the hardest things I’ve ever had to do, to tell people that you can't live up to the obligation of taking care of them the way that you said you would. Fortunately, at least we were able to keep my managing chefs on full salary the entire time.”
Silver Lining, Kits and Community “At some point, well into the pandemic, I realized I wanted to do something to connect with customers and keep the restaurant alive. This is when the idea for the kits was born. It was also around this time that we desperately needed to keep our bread ‘starter’ alive. My dry goods and produce provider crashed. So that's when we started using The Chefs’ Warehouse and working with CW Sales Rep. Jessica Gordon, and she was able to bring in product from LA and get me the flour that I needed. So we just kept baking bread and keeping our starter alive. We had so much bread that we just gave the bread away to people who would show up. We experienced such an awesome outpouring of enthusiasm from this that we made bread the center of our first meal kit. And then we did pasta, then a seasonal salad. And finally, we added a dessert. Basically we created a cooking kit for $60, that someone could grab, take home, and then cook along with me, either through Facebook or Instagram. Then, in 40 minutes they would have a four-course dinner on the table, and it would feel like they were able to participate in the restaurant. It also felt like they were getting the level of quality that we provided Esther's, and maybe learning some tips and tricks at the same time.
Come Together “We had a lot of issues with our people not being able to get unemployment. So I was actually giving them cash, from the money coming in from selling the kits, to make sure they were okay. We were giving out food to all of our employees, cooking family meals, twice or three times a week so we knew that they were going to be okay. This was also a great way to catch up with everybody when they came to pick up; everyone still felt connected to the restaurant. Everything came together really well and we've been selling 300 kits a week since. We could have done more but we don’t have enough refrigeration.”
Special Forever “Everyone has a grandma with recipes, but if Esther’s Kitchen is not better than your grandma’s cooking, we’ve failed. Getting food back to being soulful, using the best ingredients possible to create food that is beyond delicious: warm and hugging, keeping Esther’s Kitchen special forever; this is what I’ll always be at work on.”
Get the full story: CWmag.com/SilverLinings Esther's Kitchen's Radiatore with Black Garlic (from CW).
We sold 50 kits in two hours, so we said okay we'll do 50 more but that's all we're going to do. Right. So we sold the next 50 in thirty minutes. Then the next week we're like okay should we try 200? We sold out 200 in less than two hours. People did the cooking kits who had never been to the restaurant and they felt the connection of being able to cook along and be a part of the ‘community.’ It actually made the restaurant profitable during the shutdown. On top of that, I was able to start bringing back dishwashers and bakers; all the different people who are part of the restaurant.”
Esther's Kitchen's CHARRED SPANISH OCTOPUS (from CW) w/campari beets + fennel + grapefruit + ink aioli.
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