GUIDE TO LONDON ®
AUGUST 2019
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
SECRET GARDENS The parks that only locals know TAKE A CHANCE ON ABBA’S BJÖRN The legend’s top spots in the city
Y D O B Y R E EV
E C N A D stival, n e f n w o o e Meltd s love of Lond h t n o dgers and hi Nile Ro oad Studios R Abbey
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Super s US pa Alfresc days o films Gifts fo r kids
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CONTENTS COVER © BRITT LOUD. THIS PAGE: HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT COURTESY OF HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; AFTERNOON TEA © FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE; HORSE © LUCKNAM PARK; DANCERS © SADLER’S WELLS
AUGUST
FEATURES
LISTINGS
6 WHERE NOW Our guide to this month’s biggest events, from the colourful costumes at the Notting Hill Carnival to cricket action in the Ashes.
20 SIGHTSEEING Everyone knows where the Prime Minister works, but here’s how you can go inside the Houses of Parliament for yourself.
10 NILE RODGERS The iconic guitarist and Chic legend talks to us about curating this year’s Meltdown festival at the Southbank Centre.
42 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Make the most of the wonderful weather and enjoy an arty trip around town.
80 NIGHTLIFE Escape the hustle and bustle of the city with a visit to one of these canalside bars. 84 SPAS & SALONS If you’re looking for some relaxation, take a day trip or book a night at one of these spas, from Cliveden to Lucknam Park.
50 ENTERTAINMENT It’s the season for alfresco film screenings in spectacular surroundings.
86 ESSENTIALS An experienced hotel concierge shares his strangest requests as well as tips on how you can make the most of your time here.
18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE The coolest souvenirs for children.
66 SHOPPING Here are the capital’s best-loved markets, from Portobello Road to Camden.
88 MAP A useful map of central London.
90 MY PERFECT DAY ABBA star, Björn Ulvaeus, talks to us about the immersive experience Mamma Mia! The Party and shares his favourite London hot spots.
70 DINING Hotels aren’t just for resting your head. Here are the restaurant openings that will have you hotel hopping.
14 SECRET GARDENS As the sun comes out, here are the gardens that only locals know about.
See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
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CHRIS JOHNSON It has to be Regent’s Park. I make a beeline for the stunning Rose Gardens, but you can also enjoy an open-air theatre, ZSL London Zoo and a boating lake.
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WELCOME When the sun shines in London, there is nowhere else in the world as beautiful. As we are used to drizzly days, we rejoice when there is good weather and know KOHINOOR SAHOTA how to make the Managing Editor most of it. Take your pick from alfresco films (p. 50), outdoor art (p. 42) and canalside bars (p. 80). While there are lots of ways to enjoy the outdoors, these spaces can sometimes be busy. If you want somewhere tranquil, read our feature on secret gardens which not even many Londoners know about, such as the Islamic Gardens in King’s Cross and lawyers’ local, Inner Temple Gardens (p. 14). I was so excited to hear that the legendary Chic guitarist Nile Rodgers is curating this year’s Meltdown festival at the Southbank Centre. This distinctive festival lets iconic musicians create their own live concert playlist – past alumni include Yoko Ono and David Bowie. As Nile’s guitar riffs have been the soundtrack to so many parties, it was amazing to talk to him (p. 10). He recently became the creative director of Abbey Road Studios so, now he’s an honorary Londoner, it felt perfect to put him on our cover. My top tips for the month? Don’t just see the Houses of Parliament on the news, when you can actually visit it (p. 20). Also, not all hotel restaurants are created equally, so make sure you visit these hot new openings (p. 70). Let me know on social media what you decide to do!
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT © ISTOCK
Houses of Parliament
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Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
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Summer is in full swing with the Notting Hill Carnival, ABBA favourites at The O2 and discounted children’s tickets for West End shows
FROM FLEABAG After the rip-roaring success 20 AUG of the TV series Fleabag, which won many awards earlier this year, the show’s writer and star Phoebe Waller-Bridge brings her production to Wyndham’s Theatre for a strictly limited run. Waller-Bridge’s poignant, witty one-woman show, about ‘some sort of woman living her sort of life’, recently sold out on Broadway – now it’s the turn of lucky West End audiences to try for tickets to enjoy Fleabag’s charms. www.fleabagwestend.co.uk
FROM 29 AUG
ASHES 14-18 THE Now the razzle-dazzle of the AUG ICC Cricket World Cup is over, it’s back to the traditional rivalry of England vs Australia in the Ashes. One of the five Test matches in this biannual encounter is always held at Lord’s cricket ground, the world’s home of cricket. The tournament itself has been going since 1882 and the actual ‘prize’, the Ashes urn, is a surprisingly minuscule 15cm high. www.lords.org
MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY
ABBA fans, it’s time to don your sparkly flares and platform heels and join Mamma Mia! The Party at The O2. As you enjoy a Mediterranean dinner and a shot of the Greek drink ouzo, actors sing and dance in this immersive theatrical experience. You can get up and dance to ABBA’s hits, including Dancing Queen, Gimme! Gimme! Gimme!, Super Trouper and Waterloo. www.mammamiatheparty.com
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9-11 LONDON CRAFT AUG BEER FESTIVAL
Ale, lager or whatever your poison, you can try it all at this festival at Tobacco Dock. The event attracts more than 85 breweries, from London’s Hackney Brewery and Howling Hops to Evil Twin from New York and Aegir from Norway. Unlimited 100ml samples are included in your ticket, but avoid a sore head by filling up on street food, such as Sri Lankan curry from Hoppers, bao buns from Bun House and Israeli dishes from The Palomar. www.londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk
24-26 NOTTING HILL AUG CARNIVAL Sashaying dancers in sequins and feathers mingle with sizzling jerk chicken sellers to the dizzying beats of steel bands and sound systems. No wonder this celebration of Caribbean culture attracts around a million people to its parade and party. www.nhcarnival.org
DESSERT FESTIVAL 17-18 LONDON If you want to indulge in tempting treats all under AUG one roof, head to this sweet treat haven at The Old Truman Brewery in Brick Lane. These aren’t just desserts – these are delicious creations set to impress. They’ll tickle your taste buds and look almost too good to eat. Enjoy immersive installations, free samples and entertainment, too. www.londondessertfestival.com www.wheretraveler.com 7
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AUGUST
to major shows (when accompanied by a full-paying adult). There’s a wide range of shows on offer, from seeing the scary Miss Trunchbull in Matilda (pictured) and the heart-warming Everyone’s Talking about Jamie, to the fun Dinosaur World Live and Brainiac Live. Look out for special restaurant deals, too. www.officiallondontheatre.com
FROM 15 AUG
Chihuly Nights
To further enhance the stunning glass artworks on display at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening, the grounds host a special event. Dale Chihuly’s works are even more spectacular when they’re seen at sunset, accompanied by a unique soundscape. www.kew.org
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Be mesmerised by the magic of The Illusionists at the Shaftesbury Theatre Watch spectacular showjumping at the iconic Royal Hospital Chelsea Hear legendary Nile Rodgers & Chic as part of his Meltdown music festival Get on your bike in central London for cycling festival Prudential RideLondon Climb 200 steps on the stunning Conquer the Tower tour at Windsor Castle It’s the final few days of the exhibition Van Gogh and Britain at Tate Britain Get dancing at On Your Feet!, the upbeat musical about Emilio and Gloria Estefan Find a piece of art to buy at the Royal Academy of Arts’ Summer Exhibition Ask your concierge to source a ticket to the award-winning show, Hamilton Spurs host Aston Villa at their huge new football ground in Tottenham Find your favourite ale from independent brewers at the London Craft Beer Festival Bag a ticket to see The Matrix, part of Film4 Summer Screen at Somerset House Calm the mind with Late-Night Mixtape, part of BBC Proms, at the Royal Albert Hall See the capital in a different light with a scenic river cruise on a Thames Clipper Spice up your life at a hilarious night with the Spice Gals at Underbelly festival Head to The War of the Worlds, an immersive event on Leadenhall Street Take the new self-guided stadium tour of Chelsea FC and see its new trophy It’s the final week of the musical Jesus Christ Superstar at the Barbican Theatre Spend the evening at the Serpentine Pavilion by Junya Ishigami in Hyde Park Be wowed by treasures in the opulent state rooms at Buckingham Palace Tap your feet to the James Taylor Quartet at Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club Head to the BBC Proms at the Royal Albert Hall – tonight it’s Elgar’s Cello Concerto Take a seat in Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre for the powerful story of Evita Enter a world of music and arts at the Family Festival at The Royal Mews Enjoy the sounds of the great organ in a free recital at St Paul’s Cathedral Get into the Caribbean spirit at Notting Hill Carnival, with street food and floats Dennis Severs’ House holds an historical Spitalfields Journey tour today The all-star staged concert Les Misérables is on for a short run at the Gielgud Theatre Watch the sun set from the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral in its late-night opening
Captain Corelli’s Mandolin ends tomorrow at the Harold Pinter Theatre Get swept away by Matthew Bourne’s new production of Romeo and Juliet
Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com
PREVIOUS PAGES: PHOEBE WALLER-BRIDGE © JASON HETHERINGTON; CRICKET BALL AND NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL © ISTOCK; ASHES URN © RICHARD VALENCIA; MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY © DEWYNTERS; BEER GLASS COURTESY OF LONDON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL; CUPCAKE © BROOKE LARK. THIS PAGE: MATILDA © MANUEL HARLAN; CHIHULY ARTWORK © RBG, KEW
WEEK 1-31 KIDS It’s not just a week, but a whole AUG month of free tickets for kids
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★★★★★ SUNDAY TIMES
‘CONJURES THE IMPOSSIBLE! MAGICAL DOESN’T EVEN BEGIN TO DESCRIBE IT.’ ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY
NOW BOOKING UNTIL JANUARY 2020 PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter
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Meltdown at the Southbank Centre is set to be a scorcher. Music legend Nile Rodgers tells Flora Neighbour about curating the festival
S
ummer is here. Enter warm evenings, drinks by the River Thames and, of course, music festivals. And when it comes to curating a music festival, you’re not going to get much better than one by the iconic producer, Nile Rodgers. Born in 1952, the American musician has become one of the biggest names in music. If you don’t recognise his name, you’ll certainly know his guitar riffs, from the opening to He’s the Greatest Dancer to the refrain in Get Lucky. Co-founder of disco band Chic, the mogul has sold more than 500 million albums and 75 million singles across the globe; Rodgers has also collaborated with some of the biggest names in music, including David Bowie, Mick Jagger, Diana Ross, Luther Vandross and Daft Punk. It was with Daft Punk that Rodgers made his comeback in 2011, after recovering from cancer the year before. He has previously described this time in his life as ‘the jumping-off point. I decided to attack life with gusto I didn’t realise I’d had. We’d soon record three life-changing songs together: Get Lucky, Lose Yourself to Dance and the personally prophetic Give Life Back to Music.’
MAKING MELTDOWN Proving that disco is definitely not dead, Rodgers is joining forces with the Southbank Centre to create this year’s Meltdown festival (3-11 Aug). He has honed his expertise, used an endless list of contacts and called on his favourite London artists to craft a line-up full of incredible talent. He joins a list of illustrious curators that includes David Bowie, Yoko Ono and Elvis Costello, each putting their own stamp on the festival. However, it’s not all been plain sailing for the disco master.
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‘It’s been a challenge,’ he explains. ‘I tend to dream big, so I’ve learnt to control myself. There were certain crazy things that I wanted to do, but I realised that most of my concepts were physically impossible. The effort that it would take to pull it off would be immense, but I still love to concoct these over-the-top ideas and imagine what they would be like.’ Rodgers was certainly not discouraged. ‘Once I started to get my thinking back in line with what Meltdown was all about, I was able to curate the festival in line with London and the Southbank Centre and make it cool and fun, as well as achievable,’ he reveals. ‘The wackiest thing that I managed to pull off is the Studio 54 night at Meltdown – it’s going to be outrageous! I know that people will get into the spirit of it and it will be incredible. I really wanted to bring a soulful, party atmosphere to the festival, full of dancing.’ A Night of Studio 54 (3 Aug) sees the original DJs from the seminal New York nightclub (including John ‘Jellybean’ Benitez and Nicky Siano) play and is set to be one of the biggest tickets of the festival. The cool, calm and collected songwriter knows what works on stage. Blending genres and making waves in the music industry is what he’s all about. So, when I asked Rodgers about how he feels about performing on stage at the Royal Festival Hall, he’s not so animated about performing himself, but more enthusiastic about playing with an ensemble created especially for the festival. ‘I’m so excited to perform Eurythmics Songbook with an all-star band put together by David A. Stewart from the British band. We will be performing the greatest hits from the ‘80s group – I can’t wait!’ he says.
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Excitement is definitely the word for Rodgers. ‘The thing I’m excited about is seeing how Brazilian pop star Anitta will react to this audience. I also can’t wait to see London jazz pianist and producer, Alfa Mist. I’m always curious to see how all the acts will work with each other,’ he says. Mali’s Songhoy Blues, Johnny Marr and Thundercat are ones to watch out for, too.
PREVIOUS PAGES: NILE RODGERS © JILL FURMANOVSKY. THIS PAGE: NILE RODGERS © JILL FURMANOVSKY; ALFA MIST COURTESY OF SOUTHBANK CENTRE; JOHNNY MARR © NIALL LEA; ANITTA © THIAGO AUGE DIGITAL RETOUCHING STUDIO; THE BEATLES COURTESY OF THE BEATLES; DAVID A. STEWART © ROBERT SEBREE
A LONDON LOVER Rodgers seems to have adopted London as his home. So it’s no surprise to find that British music seems to electrify him and involving Londoners in his line-up has been his main objective. ‘I find that some of the younger artists from the capital are blowing me away. I’ve never seen so many women, in particular, develop their sound so fast,’ he says. Proving that he is an honorary Londoner, Rodgers has been made chief creative adviser at Abbey Road Studios – a role created specifically for him. Everyone from The Beatles to Pink Floyd have recorded at these iconic studios. What does he hope to do there? ‘Disneyland!’ he says. ‘What I mean is, in America, the slang for Disneyland is the Magical Kingdom. I wanted the possibilities to be limitless for the musicians who come through the door. ‘The amount of people I have coming through at Abbey Road Studios is amazing. Since I’ve been at the studio, I’ve also worked with big names, from symphony orchestras to Bruno Mars and Anderson Paak.’ The self-proclaimed fan of London tries to see the capital as much as he can in-between studio sessions, even taking a run around Buckingham Palace last year. ‘It was to stay in shape, but seeing the sights was an added bonus,’ he says. Nile Rodgers is certainly making his mark here. But what does he love so much about London? ‘The vibe and the people are great,’ he says. ‘London accepted disco, so my music has always been popular here and people in the UK are open-minded to new music. People are better listeners in this city.’ Yes, Nile, we are. www.southbankcentre.co.uk
Alfa Mist
Nile Rodgers David A. Stewart
The Beatles on Abbey Road
Anitta
Johnny Marr
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BEAUTIES
To celebrate London becoming the world’s first National Park City, Kathryn Conway unearths the capital’s secret sanctuaries
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SECRET PARKS | WHERE NOW The Islamic Gardens at King’s Cross
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s you navigate London’s sprawling labyrinth of streets, lanes and alleyways, juxtaposed by centuries-old buildings on the one hand and modern monoliths glistening in the sun on the other, it’s difficult to imagine that so much of the capital is covered in lush pockets of green. However, a bird’s eye view reveals a city carpeted by a variety of natural habitats, with parks – all 3,000 of them – forming great swathes of the cityscape. On 22 July, London became the world’s first National Park City. The idea was conceived by ‘guerrilla geographer’ Daniel Raven-Ellison and is supported by Sadiq Khan, London’s Mayor, as it champions the benefits of the capital’s great outdoors. The height of summer provides the perfect opportunity to take in some of London’s idyllic retreats, but before you head straight for a Royal Park, why not escape the crowds and explore these lesser-known gems?
SOUTHWARK PARK
Straddling Bermondsey and Surrey Quays, south of the River Thames, Southwark Park is worth the wander. It opened in 1869 and you can spend all day in its 60 acres, taking in sights that we would wager elude many a Londoner.
Who’d have thought, for instance, that you’d find London’s first public memorial to a working-class hero here? The park’s drinking fountain, erected in 1884, commemorates Jabez West, a member of the local temperance movement. And overlooking the duck pond and boating lake, where you can hire rowing and pedal boats, lies another tribute to a local figure in the Ada Salter Rose Garden. A social reformer, Salter was elected as Bermondsey’s first female mayor in 1922 (making her London’s first female mayor) and she devoted much of her life to the local people. The rose garden that now bears her name was commissioned by Salter’s husband, Alfred, and is filled with all manner of plants and roses that fill the air with their heady scent. Also worthy of note are the park’s two art galleries – Lake Gallery and Dilston Gallery. These hidden cultural treasures offer a rolling calendar of talks and exhibitions, while Dog Show, a contemporary art exhibition dedicated to our favourite furry companion, runs throughout August. It’s a must-see. The park is open every day until 9pm during August. www.southwark.gov.uk/parks-andopen-spaces/parks/southwark-park
ARCHBISHOP’S PARK
You’ll be treading on hallowed ground as you explore Archbishop’s Park. This great expanse of green was originally part of the grounds of Lambeth Palace, the London home of the Archbishops of Canterbury. Archbishop Tait opened part of the palace grounds for the benefit of local children to play in and, in 1901, what had become known as Lambeth Palace Field officially became a park that all residents could access. Today, the park’s extensive facilities – such as the children’s play area, sports pitches and tennis courts – ensure it’s the perfect place w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15
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to let off steam and have fun. A case in point is Zip Line London (www.zip-now.co). Hurtling you high above the ground at speeds of up to 50km/h, this 225m ride has claimed the crown as the world’s fastest urban zip line and is one for lovers of an adrenaline rush. It’s not all go, however. A wander along the Millennium Pathway offers a more sedate way to enjoy the park’s environs. Defined by red paving, it celebrates the people, places and events that, at the time of the Millennium in 2000, had made Lambeth so special over the past 1,000 years. Look out for a plaque commemorating the Lambeth Walk becoming a dance craze in 1936. www.lambeth.gov.uk/places/archbishops-park
Occupying the eastern half of a site that was chosen by the Knights Templar as their London headquarters in the 12th century, the Inner Temple serves as one of the capital’s four Inns of Court, whose responsibility is to ‘call’ barristers to the Bar. It should come as no surprise that such learned folks would avail themselves of a suitably tranquil space to escape to, making the Inner Temple Garden the very definition of a peaceful sanctuary. With so much Described in medieval beauty and records as an orchard, this colour on show, horticultural dreamland it’s not difficult Archbishop’s Park has undergone significant to see why the Royal remodelling over the centuries; the Horticultural Society chose three-acre site close to the River Thames to stage its Spring Flower Show here in now features lush lawns, herbaceous 1888. The annual event later moved to borders and a majestic avenue of plane the Royal Hospital Chelsea in 1913 and trees lining its Broadwalk – perfect for became the much-lauded RHS Chelsea a gentle meander. Now under the care of Flower Show. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-3pm. head gardener Sean Harkin and his team, www.innertemple.org.uk one of the many highlights is the garden’s Long Border. Featuring the red rose of Lancaster and the white rose of York among a sea of redolent perennial plants, As the new headquarters of the UK’s Aga it honours Shakespeare’s use of the garden Khan Foundation, the Aga Khan Centre as a setting for the quarrel between Richard opened last year to encourage cultural Plantagenet and the Duke of Somerset in dialogue around Muslim cultures. Central his play Henry VI, Part 1, which sparks the to the building’s architecture is a series of Wars of the Roses. gardens, terraces and courtyards that echo
THE ISLAMIC GARDENS AT KING’S CROSS
Islamic garden traditions from across the world, inspired by India, the Middle East, North Africa, Persia and Spain. The Garden of Reflection, for example, evokes the tranquil courtyards of the Alhambra in Andalusia, and landscape architect Vladimir Djurovic has used water and stone to masterful effect. A raised pool in black marble reflects the surrounding architecture and the water gently bubbles away to soothe and calm all those who enter the space. Other highlights include the Garden of Tranquility, a phenomenal covered ‘loggia’ with a sunken central fountain and decorative marble tiles. The rooftop Garden of Life was designed by Madison Cox; paved with Indian sandstone, the garden references the Kashmiri waterfalls of the Mughal empire. The gardens can be viewed as part of a tour on Mon and Thur at 3pm (advanced booking essential). www.agakhancentre.org.uk
PREVIOUS PAGES: THE ISLAMIC GARDENS COURTESY OF AGA KHAN CENTRE; OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: INNER TEMPLE GARDEN COURTESY OF THE INNER TEMPLE; ARCHBISHOP’S PARK © DAVID TETT
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London Underground Monopoly Board Game London Transport Museum, £29.99, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB
Royal Baby Celebration Bib Cath Kidston, £12, 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER
LEGO Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle John Lewis & Partners, £349.99, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
Gifts for
KIDS Pick up some great souvenirs with a London theme that children will love
Buckingham Palace Guardsman Sleepsuit Buckingham Palace Shop, £14.95, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP
London Luxe Biscuit Tin by Biscuiteers Fenwick, £45, 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ
Baby Suits ZSL London Zoo, £10 each, Outer Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS
MinaLima Platform 9¾ Cushion The Harry Potter Shop at Platform 9¾, £25, King’s Cross Station, N1 9AP
Buckingham Palace Cuddly Corgi Buckingham Palace Shop, £19.95, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP
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BOOK NOW FOR SUMMER
FOR FULL TICKET INFO VISIT HAMILTONMUSICAL.COM VICTORIA PALACE THEATRE A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE
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SIGHTSEEING SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10.50; child £6.30. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers spectacular views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by the celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £7; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the British monarch has 775 rooms, some open to the public for several months each summer. To 29 Sep: Summer Opening. Tour 19 state rooms, the garden and the Queen Victoria’s Palace exhibition, which explains the indelible mark that the late monarch left on her home. The state rooms contain world-class art from the Royal Collection. Daily 9.30am-7.30pm. Adult £25; child £14. www.rct.uk. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; check for dates; free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
The Charterhouse
Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Other animals to see include pigs, ferrets, wallabies, emus and snakes. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.95; child £7.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Dating back to 1348, this historic site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Previously hidden in plain sight by a high border wall, the handsome Charterhouse has only been open to the public since 2017. There’s a museum about its past, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site. 15 Aug: Open Gardens. Spend a summer evening exploring the peaceful residents’ gardens, including barbecued food and a bar; £10. Tue-Sun 11am-5.30pm; around three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £12; Brothers’ tour from £18. www.thecharterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 0203818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.
The British Library
Chelsea Physic Garden
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo
The world’s largest library has a great permanent collection as well as many temporary exhibitions. To 27 Aug: Writing: Making Your Mark. Follow the history of writing, from Egyptian hieroglyphs to digital breakthroughs and everything in between. To 8 Sep: Leonardo da Vinci: A Mind in Motion. Study da Vinci’s most precious notebooks, including the Codex Leicester: this particular manuscript text is being displayed in the UK for the first time since its 1994 purchase by Bill Gates. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and other events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical specimens in glasshouses. Check for family activities, including a Creepy Crawling Garden Safari (22 Aug) and Dinner with Dinosaurs (28 Aug). Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am6pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 88-89 20 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2019
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A
s you might have noticed, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament (p. 24) look a bit disappointing at the moment. Likely to be there until 2021, all that scaffolding is no doubt ruining your sightseeing photos. So, I decided to step inside instead on a guided tour. No matter what you think of British politics, it’s very easy to be swept up in the thrill of being on the other side of those high gates. As you might expect, everyone must pass through airport-style security at the entrance. Beyond this, I followed a ramp that leads out into the courtyard and suddenly, those magnificent, dramatically spiked parliament buildings were towering around me. The entire complex is called the Palace of Westminster and its interiors are palatial, from
gilded thrones to centuries-old frescos. The tour takes you through the historic site, even to those places that you might think are off-limits, such as the House of Commons and the House of Lords. Personally, I was astounded to be standing on the same spot as the Prime Minister, looking up at the elevated green chair from where the Speaker tries to maintain order. All around the side of the room are shields, one for each former member of Parliament who lost their life in the name of democracy: there are those who fell in the World Wars, as well as a lone shield placed apart for Jo Cox, who was murdered in 2016. In contrast to the Commons’ sea of green, the House of Lords is lined with bright red chairs on a royal blue carpet. Equally royal is this room’s centrepiece, a glittering throne flanked by two
more and framed with an intricate canopy. This is where the Queen sits to read her all-important speech during the State Opening of Parliament. Lavished with layers of gold leaf, it’s stunning. The Houses of Parliament tours run from Monday to Saturday throughout August (excluding 26 Aug), so this is an ideal time to go. There are multiple tour options to choose between, from a self-guided journey with an electric audio device, to a family-friendly tour that’s designed with children in mind. www.parliament.uk/visit
NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor
MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT TOUR; EXTERIOR © ISTOCK
‘You can stand on the same spot as the Prime Minister’
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SIGHTSEEING
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Wheels on fire
The Mayor of London is determined to push the profile of London cycling higher and higher, so Prudential RideLondon (3-4 Aug) is an annual festival that just gets bigger and bigger. This year, more than 100,000 cyclists are expected to join an epic route that weaves through Surrey and central London. On Saturday, the festival’s FreeCycle event is open to everyone. That’s followed by a 100-mile ride from London to Surrey on Sunday. There’s also the deciding race for the Brompton World Championship on the first day of RideLondon, which sees racers pedalling the tiny-wheeled folding bikes around St James’s Park eight times. If you are more of a doer than a watcher, head online to register for the FreeCycle event. www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk
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Dr Johnson’s House
See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century restored gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. 3-4 Aug: Happy Place Festival. Dedicated to cultivating healthier minds and lifestyles, this event is fronted by the British broadcaster Fearne Cotton. House Mon & Wed 11am-3pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4pm; gardens daily 7am-dusk. House entry adult £7.80; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Cutty Sark Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Meet colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £7.50. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. 1, 6, 8, 13, 15, 20, 22 & 27 Aug: The Spitalfields Journey. This 100-minute tour begins at the historic Beavis Marks synagogue, home to Huguenot silverware and textiles. Please check for tour times and prices. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. 11-10 Aug: Legendary Joust. Four ‘knights’ mounted on horses compete in a medieval joust. Cheer them on and enjoy centuries-old music, jester performances, cookery and crafts; booking advised. Sun-Fri & 10 Aug 10am-6pm. Adult £15.40; child £9.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Its museum, historic rooms and shop have just
DID YOU KNOW? Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all of the holes that the aardvarks dig during the night
reopened following a £3.8m refurbishment, which has also transformed its botanical gardens and opened up several historic rooms for the first time. 1 & 18 Aug: Garden Walk. Guided tour of the garden and the rare plants that grow there. 4 Aug: The Tempest. Illyria open-air theatre company performs this Shakespeare comedy in the walled garden; from 6pm, booking essential. Museum & historic rooms daily 10.30am-5pm; botanic garden dawn to dusk. Admission free; charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Go Ape! London There are several of these treetop obstacle courses located in the London area: Go Ape! Battersea Park is the most central, followed by Alexandra Palace then Cockfosters in the north, as well as Black Park near Heathrow. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness during this three-and-a-halfhour experience, plus a squeal-inducing zipwire. Skilled staff are on hand to ensure you know the ropes – literally. Please check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Various locations. T: 01603-895 500.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted and stunning interiors. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. 3-4 Aug: Grand Picnic. During this special weekend, visitors can book into one of three child-friendly plays performed in a bell tent, including Aesop’s Fables and Robin Hood; booking essential. House daily noon-4pm; garden, shop and café daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £6.25. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
GROUP CYCLISTS © JED LEICESTER/SILVERHUB FOR PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON; SOLO CYCLIST COURTESY OF PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON; AARDVARK © ISTOCK
Chiswick House & Gardens
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SEE ALL OF LONDON FROM THE TOP OF THE SHARD
WIN ONE OF FOUR PAIRS OF TICKETS – including Moët & Chandon Champagne – for The View from The Shard (Terms and conditions apply)
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The former homes of both the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park.
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this landmark ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Explore the original cabins and galleys. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
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Palace picnics
How can you improve upon a wonderful day of sightseeing at a beautiful location steeped in British history? With food – lots of it. The stupendous minds behind Hampton Court Palace Food Festival (24-26 Aug) know this to be true so, if you fancy a day trip beyond London, why not take a 40-minute train ride from Waterloo? The festival, which is run in partnership with the BBC’s Good Food brand, brings street food, entertainment and family activities to the East Front Gardens of Hampton Court Palace (p. 38). Big names from the food world will make appearances too, including Michel Roux Jnr and The Great British Bake Off winner Nadiya Hussain (right). www.hrpfoodfestivals.com
HAMPTON COURT PALACE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; NADIYA HUSSAIN © W TINDALL
Handel & Hendrix in London
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SIGHTSEEING
Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace (p. 21). Tours Mon-Sat (except 26 Aug). Check for afternoon tea, which can be booked as an addition to the tour. Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £26.50, young adult £22, child £11.50; child-friendly family guided tour adult £19.50, child free. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
Visit the world-famous botanic garden
Kew Gardens Kew Bridge
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18095_ZooLifeAd_Lion_276x206_v03
Really great days out that make a real difference
close encounters @zsllondonzoo #ZooLife
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SIGHTSEEING The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.70; child £3.40. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. 16 Aug: Afternoon Poems Special: Peterloo 200th Anniversary.
A reading of Percy Bysshe Shelley’s The Mask of Anarchy, which was a response to Manchester’s 1819 Peterloo massacre, when cavalry charged into a crowd of tens of thousands of people who were demanding the reform of parliamentary representation; 2pm-4pm, free. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tours at 1.30pm & 3pm (subject to availability). Adult £7.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge officially
DID YOU KNOW? The waxwork of the Queen that is currently on display at Madame Tussauds is the 23rd to have been made. Images of the clay head were sent to Buckingham Palace during the creative process reside with George, Charlotte and Louis. The Victoria 2019 exhibition honours what would have been the late monarch’s 200th birthday, exploring how she became ‘the Grandmother of Europe’. To 2 Aug: The Luna Cinema. Watch a film in the grounds of the palace, with selections including Young Victoria and The Favourite; £17.50, booking essential. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £19.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of artists such as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Regular family events. The heath is a popular picnic and walking spot during the summer. Daily 10am-5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT.
Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Treetop Walkway offers great views along a wooden walkway. Don’t miss the Temperate House, which is the world’s biggest Victorian glasshouse and has just received a five-year refurbishment. The new children’s garden is designed especially for visitors aged two to 12 and includes an activity trail and a tree canopy walk (p. 72). To 27 Oct: Chihuly: Reflections on Nature. Glass artist Dale Chihuly displays 32 of his striking pieces around the grounds. To 26 Aug: Alice in Wonderland. Watch this outdoor theatre production by the Australian Shakespeare Company; Tue-Sun, adult £22.90; child £17.90; booking essential. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £18; child £6; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 0208332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
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Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun, too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up. Daily 10am-7pm. Advance: adult from £16; child from £19. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania. co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
QUEEN WAXWORK COURTESY OF MADAME TUSSAUDS LONDON
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
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GET A DIFFERENT VIEW OF RUSH HOUR FROM PP
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Take a thrilling, high-speed, aquabatic ride on the ThamesJet. Hold on tight for 50 minutes of awesome, action-packed sightseeing. From Westminster you’ll sweep past all the famous attractions, taking in London’s skyline in a breathtaking new light. Once in the speed zone, it’s a white knuckle river ride around Canary Wharf. Book your tickets at the kiosk or online at www.thamesjet.com
Sightseeing Tours Over 100 Experiences to choose from
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SIGHTSEEING The London Bridge Experience & London Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Multi-sensory special effects and actors bring this spinetinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit where you have to make your way through a scary maze, dripping with ‘blood’. This is said to be one of the country’s scariest attractions – you have been warned! Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The London Dungeon
Coca-Cola London Eye
This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters in a thrilling experience. It’s not suitable for small children or the fainthearted. Look out online for special events. Joint tickets are available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/ Embankment/Westminster.
This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. You can see all the famous landmarks from your glass pod, with information on each one via the touch screen. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Discover more than 600 objects left by the first Londoners, as well as modern art on the ground floor at Bloomberg SPACE. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.
ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. There are regular feeding sessons where you can watch the keepers care for the animals. Daily events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Swinging Gibbons, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily 10am-6pm; check online for prices. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333.B6. Station: Camden Town.
Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the films, the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony and ‘Tom Hearty’, a model of actor Tom Hardy with its own heartbeat. Recent additions include Captain Marvel. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/ london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.
Don’t miss the Changing the Guard ceremony (p. 20)
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SIGHTSEEING
DID YOU KNOW? The 62m-high Monument stands 62m from the spot where the 1666 Great Fire of London started – and a smaller statue, the Golden Boy of Pye Corner, stands at the exact point where the fire was put out
The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 by Sir Christopher Wren to commemorate those who were killed during the 1666 Great Fire of London. You can climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery for great views. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower Bridge available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer brand shopping outlet, as well as a huge trampoline park, Oxygen Freejumping. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
SOLDIER © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA; THE QUEEN WAXWORK COURTESY OF MADAME TUSSAUDS; GOLDEN BOY OF PYE CORNER © ISTOCK
Old Royal Naval College
The Royal Institution of Great Britain This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for a full programme of talks as well as family fun days. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, where they are responsible for the transportation
of the Queen and members of the royal family. Learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Children will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as taking part in the busy programme of art sessions. 24-26 Aug: Family Festival. Enter a royal world of performances, music, arts and activities, all included with admission tickets. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives free. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria/St James’s Park.
Three domes. Five floors. And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s.
Sir Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is home to a neoclassical chapel and the Painted Hall, which recently reopened following a major conservation project. Its enhanced undercroft space now includes a café, shop and gallery, while you can also see the foundations of Henry VIII’s birthplace, Greenwich Palace. Tour options include guided talks, multimedia handsets and a kids’ trail. Every Thursday in August, the college is holding free, multisensory storytelling sessions for children; check for times. Daily 10am-5pm. General admission free; Painted Hall adult £12, child free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Pitzhanger Manor & Gallery Emerging from a three-year conservation project in early 2019, this Regency manor has been sympathetically restored to John Soane’s original design. Designed and occupied by the acclaimed British architect from 1800, Pitzhanger includes a contemporary art gallery and Soane’s Kitchen café. To 18 Aug: Anish Kapoor. The British sculptor presents his disorientating work. Tue-Fri, Sun & bank hols 10am-4.30pm; Sat 10am-3pm. Adult £7; child free. www.pitzhanger.org.uk. Mattock Lane, W5 5EQ. T: 020-3994 0962. Off map. Station: Ealing Broadway.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes sporting locations that are open to the public (except for occasional competitive events) including the Aquatics Centre and Velodrome, plus the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check the website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queen elizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.
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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Observatory
SEA LIFE London
The View from The Shard
Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, the exact spot where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have completely changed how we live. Inside, visit the Planetarium to uncover the secrets of the cosmos at its regular screenings and talks. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16; child £8. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£150 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco on 31 Aug; £37.50, book online. Daily 10am-10pm. Adult £32; child £25; tickets must be purchased in advance online. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE
St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. A vibrant waterside destination, it’s lined with regular markets, shops, The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including Dokke, Bravas Tapas, Zizzi and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and art exhibitions. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Regular, free lunchtime concerts from 1pm; check online for dates. 13 Aug: Beethoven Moonlight Sonata by Candlelight. Ukrainian pianist Dinara Klinton pays Chopin, Beethoven, Rachmaninov and Liszt; 7.30pm9.30pm, booking essential. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Queen Victoria’s
Pal ace
© PA
20 July – 29 September
A special exhibition at the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace
Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The new Great Restoration of the 1920s exhibition details the little-known story of the project to save the dome, after the cathedral was served a Dangerous Structures notice in 1924. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. 8, 15, 22 & 29 Aug: Summer Lates. The cathedral reopens to visitors 7pm-9.30pm, enabling a chance to watch the sunset over London from the dome. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm; 2-31 Aug 8.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON
St Paul’s Cathedral
For great views of the city, jump on the Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 28)
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SIGHTSEEING Tower Bridge
Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult This breathtaking bridge, completed in £5.70; child £3.40. www.english-heritage. 1894, is one of London’s most famous org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, landmarks (not to be confused with W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. its less grand, but much older Station: Hyde Park Corner. neighbour, London Bridge). You can tour the Victorian engine In The Making of Harry Westminster Abbey rooms with a knowledgeable Potter Tour, more than Consecrated in 1065, this stunning guide, see displays of the bridge’s 950 potion jars line Gothic abbey is the crowning and history, and even join a yoga class the walls of the burial site of most English monarchs. on the glass walkways, 42m above classroom set It also houses Poets’ Corner, which is the River Thames. Joint tickets with the final resting place of Charles Dickens The Monument available. Daily and other famous writers. In 2018, the abbey 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please unveiled its first major structural addition in more check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
DID YOU KNOW?
than a quarter of a millennium, a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, this new exhibition space tells the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Check for occasional music events, including free organ recitals every Sunday afternoon. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-4pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only adult £23; child £10. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries adult £28; child £10. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home to the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £27.50; child £13.10. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience that will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. The new Gringotts Wizarding Bank set is the tour’s biggest expansion to date, featuring the Lestrange Vault and a goblin gallery. Please check for times. Adult £45, child £37. Booking essential. www.wb studiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and the Houses of
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SIGHTSEEING WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens that are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. Every Friday evening this month, Children’s Night Safari is a chance to explore after dark, build a den, then hear stories around a campfire and toast marshmallows; 7pm-10pm, £25.50. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £13; child £7.90. www.wwt. org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
RIVER TRIPS
City Cruises
Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a regular hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service taking in all the major landmarks from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for the Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Daily departures 11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10.75, return £16; child single £7, return £10.75. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, SE1 7PB. F8. Station: Waterloo.
MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; under-fives travel free. Adult standard single journeys from £4.80; adult Oyster/app/online single journeys from £4.40. www.mbnathames clippers.com. Various departure points along the Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.
THE ROYAL MEWS BUCKINGHA M PALACE
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-5pm and from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-6pm. Please check for prices (33 per cent off published fares with a valid TfL Travelcard). www.thames riverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
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From the Gold State Coach to the State Stables, discover more about Buckingham Palace’s historic carriages and The Queen’s horses that pull them.
Photogr apher: Sam
Travel in style this summer
Mellish
Westminster Abbey was consecrated in 1065 (p. 31)
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SIGHTSEEING including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and television series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Please check for all available tours. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
DID YOU KNOW? At the London Wetland Centre, summer brings migratory sand martins, which nestle in the sand banks that have been purposely created for them
Thamesjet
City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, all within London’s historic Square Mile. Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.
The Classic Tour Hop aboard a restored 1960s Routemaster double-decker bus and see London’s landmarks in an entertaining, 75-minute tour. Check for times and prices. www.theclassictour.com. Departs from Northumberland Ave, off Trafalgar Square (bus stop outside The Grand hotel). T: 0844-318 7655. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all
Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. The full guided walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.
Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Various ticket packages are available, from one to three days. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Classic Ticket (one day) adult £39; child £29. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Green Park or Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus and learning lots along the way. Daily 10am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND SAND MARTIN @ ISTOCK
Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of construction, fires and World War II bombs. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains, discovered in 1848. Explore this intriguing insight into ancient life in the City on an hour-long guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse, which lie hidden beneath offices. Sat 11am, noon & 1pm. Adult £10.19; child £8.06; advance online booking essential. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tours available year round Book online or call us on +44 20 7219 4114
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SIGHTSEEING the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from the capital to popular locations. Enjoy day trips to historic destinations such as Bath, Stonehenge and Windsor Castle, plus other places including Brighton and the scenic Cotswolds. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours
DID YOU KNOW?
the acclaimed Hairy Goat has daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of new and old architecture, as well as the street and river scenes that make London a joy to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.
See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes Buckingham Palace an English-speaking guide who has 760 windows, describes the sights, plus multilingual 19 state rooms and audio commentary tours, where you 78 bathrooms can hop-on and hop-off the bus. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour Hairy Goat Photography Tours walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the Offering exploratory photography tours alongside infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jackthe-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.
Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and learn more about the famous sporting heroes who played here. Please check for times, prices and match-day closures. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.
The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 10-minute Buzz, 20-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Sat 5pm. Tickets £24; booking strongly advised. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team for no parking worries: you’ll be travelling in a private vehicle with a professional guide and a chauffeur. Multilingual guides are available for many languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.
London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Notting Hill, Harry Potter, London shopping, inside The British Museum and A Royal Morning in London. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 07498-036295.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes 34 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2019
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SIGHTSEEING around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Neverland Children’s Tours Offering fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over, the aim of Neverland Children’s Tours is to make London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and make new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 0203239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
Original London Sightseeing Walk
The Original Tour
Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £10 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £20. Alternatively, book the new Haunted London walk for £10; please check online for dates. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross/Leicester Square.
With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £34, child £16; 48-hour adult £44, child £21. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour grand tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.50. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
WINDSOR CASTLE
WINDSOR
Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a separate, candlelit performance space. The half-hour tour begins every 30 minutes, after which you may browse the Globe’s exhibition. Daily from 9.30am, check for afternoon tours; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars. Via a network of more than 100 stations around the UK, take a memorable trip on board Steam Dream’s fleet of restored steam trains – which includes the Flying Scotsman. Day trips from London include Exeter, Cheltenham, York and Bournemouth, each designed to evoke a bygone era of luxury train travel. Classes of travel range from Premium Standard to Pullman-Style Dining. www.steamdreams.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 01483-209 888.
Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by an entertaining,
ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ISTOCK
Steam Dreams Rail Co
Visit the iconic Royal Albert Hall
HOME OF THE
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SIGHTSEEING GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent a Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £30 per rental. www.twizy tours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
in the grounds, bringing with it a season of Shakespeare favourites – Macbeth, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Richard III and Romeo and Juliet – and a mini village offering The British Library period attractions; tickets are has more than eight required for plays. Palace daily million stamps and 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 13 million books Westways Carriage Horses 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily Get collected from your hotel 10am-6pm. Palace, park & gardens and experience the sights from the comfort adult £27; child £16. Park & gardens of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last up to two adult £17; child £7.60. Free entry for under-fives. hours in either a four- or six-seater carriage, with www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, an adjustable hood to accomodate any weather. OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Station: £550 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3. co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
DID YOU KNOW?
Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. While Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living here, it was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, retaining its 1930s-style decor. The site includes a lovely kitchen garden, woodlands and a restaurant. House Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; garden and restaurant daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £7.75. www.national trust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. To 15 Sep: The Naked Form in Modern Chinese Art. A look at the emergence of the nude in China’s art during the 1930s, through pieces spanning the past 80 years. To 6 Oct: Lifelines: The Woodcuts of Naoko Matsubara. This Canada-based Japanese artist displays 50 years of creations. To 12 Jan: Last Supper in Pompeii. The museum reveals just how much the people of Pompeii loved dining, through a haul of loaned objects from the site including abandoned food, carbonised for centuries by volcanic ash. Daily 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
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Everything we hoped for... blown away by the setting, the ambiance of the restaurant, the staff but most of all by the food. - Bookatable Review
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Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. It’s set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 1-4 Aug: BBC Countryfile Live. This much-loved television show becomes a traditional country fair, with live arena shows, animal and farming displays and a ‘great British pub’ garden; book ahead. To 7 Sep: Shakespeare’s Rose Theatre. This pop-up, Elizabethan-style theatre arrives
With glorious views across the River Thames and a stunning bar and terrace, The Brasserie at Sir Christopher Wren offers upscale dining in the heart of Royal Windsor. Just steps from Windsor Castle and Eton Bridge, The Brasserie is the perfect spot for lunch or dinner on a day out in Windsor. Famed for our Afternoon Tea, you can enjoy the British tradition whilst watching swans glide down the river. Sir Christopher Wren Hotel and Spa, Thames Street, Royal Windsor 01753 336138
www.sirchristopherwren.co.uk
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SIGHTSEEING Hampton Court Palace
Leeds Castle
Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, then see Henry’s state apartments including the Great Hall. 24-26 Aug: Hampton Court Palace Food Festival. All sorts of foodie attractions, including live cookery demonstrations by Michel Roux Jr and The Great British Bake Off winner Nadiya Hussain (p. 24); entrance included with general admission. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23.70; child £11.90. www.hrp. org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. 23-24 Aug: Alice in Wonderland. This exciting and absurd musical has been produced with children in mind; from 5pm, booking essential. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am5.30pm. Adult £26; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
Hever Castle and Gardens Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful site was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors, the work of the Astor family during the 20th century. Outside, the castle’s gardens feature statuary and a lake for boat rides. 10-11, 17-18 & 23-26 Aug: Summer Jousting. Watch horseback riders in Tudor-period dress battling each other in an arena, as well as the grand arrival of King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. Bring a blanket or watch the joust from the medieval spectator stands, available for a small fee on a first-come, first-served basis. Daily 10.30am-6pm, castle from noon. Adult £17.75; child £9.95. www.hevercastle. co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.
The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 10 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds along the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures once an hour. Adult £15; child £8. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £47; child £23. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens. There’s a programme of park runs too, for adults and children. Settle down in Osterley’s Stables Walled Garden for a theatrical
DID YOU KNOW? Leeds Castle was a makeshift hospital during World War II and is home to the world’s only dog collar museum, with exhibits spanning five centuries
adaptation of Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing (3 Aug) or David Walliams’ Gangsta Granny (30 Aug); booking essential. Garden daily 10am-5pm, house daily noon-4pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. To 6 Oct: A Royal Wedding: The Duke and Duchess of Sussex. See the outfits that Harry and Meghan wore on their big day last year. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £8.70. www.rct.uk/palaceofholyrood house. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
Departures every 20 minutes from major piers
NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY; LEEDS CASTLE © ISTOCK
For a different view of London take the River Bus
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SIGHTSEEING Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive, early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £21.10; child £12.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then take a bus or taxi.
DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF
Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed, landscaped gardens and Great Conservatory. House tickets include a guided tour at 2pm, following one of a variety of themes. Gardens daily 10.30am-5pm; house Wed, Thur, Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark.co.uk. Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.
Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. To 20 Oct: Brought to Life: Eliot Hodgkin Rediscovered. Known for his still-life and landscape works, this 20th-century British painter is honoured with a display of more than 100 paintings and drawings. Grounds Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; house Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Grounds only adult £11, child £5.50; house and grounds adult £21, child £11.50. www.waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 012968204144. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
WWW.DREAMLAND.CO.UK
Warwick Castle Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of AlfredWL the124X118 DREAMLAND FILLER 2019.indd 1 Great, then enhanced by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a familyfriendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Its past is brought to life with free tours by the castle’s history team, a Castle Dungeon experience, displays of medieval weaponry and a Horrible Histories maze. The daily Falconer’s Quest attraction is billed as the UK’s biggest birds of prey show. Open daily, subject to weather; please check for times. Castle adult £28, child £25; castle & dungeon adult £33, child £29. Advance booking (at least five days) castle adult or child £19; castle & dungeon £24. www.warwickcastle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.
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Nelson’s Column has towered over Trafalgar Square since 1843
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SIGHTSEEING
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the tea shop, then wander to the nearby, Grade Ilisted Watts Chapel. To 3 Nov: John Frederick Lewis: Facing Fame. Working during the 17th century, Lewis travelled across Europe and settled in Cairo, painting watercolours that convey the region’s architecture, light and exoticism. TueSun & banks hols 10.30am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
By Night
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed and where Princess Eugenie married Jack Brooksbank last year. Includes state apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. From 1 Aug: Conquer the Tower Tour. Tackle 200 steps and find yourself at the top of the castle’s Round Tower for a panoramic view of Windsor – you’ll even be able to see the London skyline; booking advised, extra charges apply. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am-5.15pm. Adult £22.50; child £13. www.rct.uk/windsor castle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £21 Child - £12
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
www.seelondonbynight.com
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS ...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings
London Sightseeing Tours
They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us
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Themed Tours
Harry Potter, Downton Abbey, The Beatles, Doctor Who, Countryside Tours, Stonehenge and so much more!
Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the abbey and stroll its Repton-inspired gardens. 17 & 18 Aug: Carriage Tours. View the grounds and gardens from your own carriage. Check for times and prices. www.woburn abbey.co.uk. Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525290333.
THE SHARD © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
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Woburn Abbey and Gardens
Family friendly sightseeing tours from the comfort of an iconic London Black Taxi
Off map.
Station: Flitwick.
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS
T: 07970 911223
capitaltaxitours.co.uk
See London’s skyline at The View from The Shard (p. 30)
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES ‘See radical art on these ancient streets’
A
s the sun (hopefully) appears and temperatures rise, now’s a great time to enjoy some fantastic public art that’s popping up around London. One of the summer’s artistic highlights takes place in Kensington Gardens: the Serpentine Gallery’s Pavilion (to 6 Oct; p. 48) is a provocative and often beautiful structure that sits on the lawn outside the gallery. This year’s pavilion has been designed by Japanese architect Junya Ishigami, who twists architectural norms and takes inspiration from nature. His cave-like structure has a swooping roof made from layered slates (www.serpentinegalleries.org). The City of London – the capital’s financial district – may be a grey landscape of suits
and spreadsheets but, as the oldest part of London, it’s a fascinating place. The Sculpture in the City festival, which is taking place all month, celebrates this by putting radical art on these ancient streets. As well as 20 new pieces, last year’s popular Bridging Home by South Korea’s Do Ho Suh remains: his to-scale, hanok-style Korean house perches precariously above the traffic on Wormwood Street footbridge. Book the two-hour Sculpture in the City tour on 31 Aug. (www.sculpture inthecity.org.uk). If you’re planning a trip to Regent’s Park or ZSL London Zoo, then you’ll probably walk past Frieze Sculpture London (to 6 Oct). This is the capital’s largest free display of outdoor art, where this beautiful Royal Park makes room for the work of more than 20 international artists, including Tracey Emin, Robert Indiana and Barry Flanagan.
Indiana’s contribution to the temporary sculpture park is Numbers One through Zero, which the late American sculptor, painter and printmaker created between 1980 and 2002. Each number is made from Corten steel, which develops a different patina depending on the surrounding environment. Flanagan’s piece, Composition, features three bronze elephants and the leaping Nijinski hare, named after the 20th-century ballet dancer Vaslav Nijinski (www.frieze.com; www.waddingtoncustot.com).
NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor
Barry Flanagan’s Composition
SERPENTINE PAVILION 2019 © IWAN BAAN; BARRY FLANAGAN’S COMPOSITION © HÉLÈNE MAURI
Junya Ishigami’s Serpentine Pavilion
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Enjoy a self-guided audio tour to see inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s long history. Please check for times, prices and Legends Tour. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. Exhibiting its books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs, plus modern gold bars and fun activities for kids. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland. co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Body Worlds Known around the world, Body Worlds specialises in the human body. This flagship venue contains 200 exhibits, exploring how every part of the human works using the latest plastination technology. Daily 10am-7pm; last Fri every month 10am-10pm. Advance (at least 24 hours) adult £22.50, child £16; on the day adult £25, child £18. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 0330-223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
The Cinema Museum Concentrating on the early years of cinema, this collection includes artefacts, memorabilia and screening equipment from the 1890s onwards. Guided tour adult £10; child £7. www.cinema museum.org.uk. 2 Dugard Way, SE11 4TH. T: 020-7840 2200. G9. Station: Elephant & Castle.
The Design Museum One of the world’s leading museums of top contemporary design and architecture. To 15 Sep: Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition. Commemorating 20 years since the film director’s death, this exhibition explores the design story behind his
work through original props, costumes, unique set models and rare photographs. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Florence Nightingale Museum Learn about the work of this pioneering 19th-century British nurse, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’, plus Jamaican-born nurse Mary Seacole. Please check for times. Adult £8; child £4. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Guards Museum Discover the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces: the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.
The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Permanent displays and treasures include the Roman Empire, ancient Egypt, medieval Europe, ancient Iran and India. To 26 Aug: The Citi Exhibition: Manga. See the world of manga brought to life, thanks to a bumper collection of work from across Japan. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.
The Cartoon Museum This museum is dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today, with a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. Tue-Sat 10.30am-8pm; Sun noon-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, W1T 3QQ. T: 020-7580 8155. D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road.
Charles Dickens Museum
New self-guided, multilingual tours of the dressing room, players’ tunnel and press room, plus a museum with famous shirts, memorabilia and trophies. Check for times, prices and occasional tours by former players. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 020-7386 9373. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
It is a full 50 years since the first human placed a foot on the surface of the moon and there’s no doubting that, without the world’s most brilliant science boffins, we’d still be simply gazing up at it from Earth. So, where better to celebrate one of humanity’s greatest achievements than at the Science Museum (p. 46)? Its new Fly Me to the Moon show (daily, 1.30pm & 2.30pm) is a great place to start. Held in the museum’s Hans Rausing Lecture Theatre and suitable for children over six, it takes viewers on a lunar mission, from launching a rocket all the way up to confronting the big questions, such as: how exactly does one do a poo in space?
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) are coordinates on the map on p. 88-89
FLY ME TO THE MOON © SCIENCE MUSEUM
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours
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One giant leap for mankind
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The former home of the Victorian novelist, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in authentic Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions and includes a pretty garden to relax in. Check for events. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
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European Museum of the Year 2018 High Street Kensington
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Uncover the story of London and its transport icons over the last 200 years Find out more and book in advance for Hidden London tours
Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes of the Household Cavalry Regiments and their ceremonial duties. Troopers and their horses work in the original 18th-century stables. Please check for times. Adult £8.50; child £6.50. www.householdcavalry museum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7. Station: Westminster.
Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. F9. Station: Lambeth North.
Jewish Museum
The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is dedicated to his life and work. Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Please check for times and tours. Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Transport Museum This museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include red buses, posters over the decades, the world’s first underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £18; child free. www.ltmuseum. co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Museum of Freemasonry In the Freemasons’ Hall, this museum displays Masonic artefacts from silver to furniture. To 24 Aug: Bejewelled: Badges, Brotherhood and Identity. Discover an array of Masonic badges. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.freemasonry.london.museum. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn.
Museum of London
To honour its current Secret Rivers exhibition about the city’s ancient waterways, Museum of London Docklands is raising the curtain on a new family show, River Tails and Sewer Stories (selected dates 7-31 Aug, 11.30am, 1.30pm & 3pm). The 45-minute interactive show stars a river rat narrator and a musician, who perform stories that underline the threats faced by the capital’s rivers and how to protect them. With a quiz, audience participation and even a ‘Stinky Sock-o-Meter of Smelliness’, it’s set to be lively. Tickets for River Tails and Sewer Stories must be booked online, but the show and entry to the Museum of London Docklands are free. www.museumoflondon.org.uk
National Army Museum Interactive displays and exhibitions telling the stories of soldiers’ lives, from Tudor times to the present day. To 20 Oct: Rise of the Lionesses: 70 years of the Women’s Royal Army Corps. How women used the army to help smash gender stereotypes. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
National Maritime Museum
The world’s largest urban history museum has nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Get up close to the objects that made history – from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art – at the world’s largest maritime museum. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Museum of London Docklands
Natural History Museum
The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Ten galleries include Sailortown, with its 19th-century alleyways. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.
Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 8 Sep: Museum of the Moon. This touring piece of art has arrived in London. Six metres in diameter, its glowing surface is decorated with NASA-sourced imagery of the moon. Daily 10am-5.50pm.
Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
The Postal Museum Thousands of fascinating exhibits explore postal history, including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels. Daily 10am5pm. Adult £17; child £10. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-size model of the F-35 fighter jet and the chance to climb inside selected planes. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medicine, with a Red Arrows flight simulator and an IMAX showing 3D films (p. 44). Permanent galleries include Making the Modern
RIVER TAILS IMAGES © MUSEUM OF LONDON
Leighton House Museum
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Rat tails
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Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the East End’s Jewish immigrant quarter and the Holocaust Gallery. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewish museum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES World (p. 44), with Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module. Daily 10am-6pm; adult-only Lates programme last Wed of every month, 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Leighton House Museum
Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the architect Soane. It still houses his collection, which he amassed from around the C world. Wed-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission M free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A Y 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Somerset House
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This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the MY Thames houses the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants, all surrounding a large courtyard. CY To 8 Sep: Kaleidoscope: Immigration and Modern Britain. Photography by 10 practitioners native CMY to or living in Britain, questioning the immigrant K experience in the country today. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somerset house.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
VISIT A PRIVATE PALACE OF ART
12 Holland Park Road, W14 8LZ | Closed Tuesdays | leightonhouse.co.uk
V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, plus Rachel Whiteread’s celebrated artwork, Place (Village). Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
“A MUST VISIT” GOOGLE | TRIPADVISOR
The Vault at Hard Rock Cafe Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures. It’s now home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia previously owned by famous musicians. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
THE STORY OF GREENWICH STARTS HERE DISCOVER THE PAINTED HALL
Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics. To 1 Sep: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. Dramatic haute couture, original sketches and vintage perfume bottles demonstrate the label’s influence. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
ADULTS £12 KIDS GO FREE Tickets includes use of a multimedia guide (available in 7 languages), talks and tours throughout the day, hands-on exhibits and free kids activities
#RevealingTheCeiling ornc.org
Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses hundreds of artefacts relating to health and the body. Permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man – the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome – feature eye-popping, antique medical equipment. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-9pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
© Alys Tomlinson
Wellcome Collection
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
The National Portrait Gallery has the only portrait that William Shakespeare posed for
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous Championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits worn by recent champions, plus tours of Centre Court. Please check for times and prices. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
World Rugby Museum Located in Twickenham Stadium with more than 38,000 exhibits, including items from early 20th-century Welsh national teams and the 1924 New Zealand side. Please check for times, tours and prices. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces. To 26 Aug: AI: More than Human. A celebration of creative and scientific breakthroughs in artificial intelligence, using interactive displays (The Curve). To 1 Sep: Lee Krasner: Living Colour. The American artist’s works, inspired by post-war New York City. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Estorick Collection
House of Illustration
The Photographers’ Gallery
The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. Tue-Sat 10am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £4. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with temporary exhibitions. To 6 Oct: TPG New Talent. Groundbreaking work of eight emerging photographers. To 6 Oct: Urban Impulses: Latin American Photography from 1959 to 2016. This overview covers more than 200 images. Please check for times and prices. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and an art-house cinema. Please check for times and prices. www.ica.art. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The National Gallery World-famous gallery, with Western European masterpieces from the 13th to 19th centuries. To 11 Aug: Sea Star: Sean Scully. A series of abstract works by the Irish-American artist. To 29 Sep: Bartolomé Bermejo: Master of the Spanish Renaissance. Celebrating a genius of the 1400s. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery Prominent gallery, more than 150 years old, with works depicting famous British people. To 15 Sep: Cindy Sherman. See around 150 works by the contemporary photographer. To 20 Oct: Portrait Award 2019. Finalists from the annual prize. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from the artist’s extensive modern art collection and includes his famed, art-filled restaurant. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreet gallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.
Bijou gallery in a Grade II-listed Georgian building, specialising in modern Italian art. To 15 Sep: Paolo Scheggi: In Depth.. Known as a Spatialism pioneer, this show spans his work across the visual arts, architecture, fashion, poetry and performance art. Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £7.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions. To 13 Oct: Leonardo da Vinci: A Life in Drawing. To mark the 500th anniversary of the artist’s death, this rare exhibition displays more than 200 da Vinci drawings. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £13.50; child £6.70. www.rct.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.
Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with works in all media. To 12 Aug: Summer Exhibition. More than 1,200 contemporary works, submitted by a range of artists. To 29 Sep: Félix Vallotton: Painter of Disquiet. Works by the Swiss painter and printmaker capture early 20th-century Parisian landscapes. Please check for times, prices and special events. www.royal academy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park.
Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge, renovated Georgian building. To 14 Sep: Sweet Harmony: Rave | Today. A celebration of rave culture by those who experienced it, including photographers Tom Hunter, Vinca Petersen, Ted Polhemus, Dave Swindells and Mattko. Daily 10am-6pm. Charges for selected exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Serpentine Gallery Gallery in Kensington Gardens with modern and contemporary exhibitions. To 6 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. This year’s summer structure is designed by the Japanese architect Junya Ishigami (p. 42). Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 11 Aug: The EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain Britain. Using more than 45 works by the Post-Impressionist, Tate explores how van Gogh’s love for Britain influenced his art. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www. tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, which was discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). Please check for times and prices. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
Hayward Gallery This recently refurbished gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre, with regular, contemporary exhibitions. To 8 Sep: Kiss My Genders.. More than 30 artists come together to display works on the theme of gender identity; incorporating photography, painting, sculpture and video. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The Queen’s Gallery
Tate Modern
Visit the Science Museum’s Top Secret exhibition (p. 46)
World-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 8 Sep: Natalia Goncharova Goncharova. The work of the Russian avant-garde artist, from huge religious paintings to fashion designs. To 5 Jan: Olafur Eliasson: In Real Life. Installations that discuss architecture, climate change, energy and migration. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY; TELEPHONE © THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES OF THE SCIENCE MUSEUM
DID YOU KNOW?
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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry
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Preferred charity partner
Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.
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ENTERTAINMENT Backyard Cinema
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f, like me, you’ve wanted to go to a 1950s style drive-through cinema ever since you watched Grease, now you can at least watch a film in the great outdoors. Last summer I sang along to Grease in a riverside amphitheatre and watched Jaws in a lido – and this month’s Film4 Summer Screen (8-21 Aug) is just as diverse. This popular film festival launched in 2004 and takes place in the cobbled courtyard of Somerset House. The annual event opens with the UK premiere of the Spanish film Pain and Glory, introduced by its director, Pedro Almodóvar. Starring Penélope Cruz and Antonio Banderas, it’s about an ageing, reclusive director whose life takes a turn when he is reunited with an actor. Watch classics such as The Matrix, Clueless and Reservoir Dogs, or the festival’s closing
film, the UK premiere of Inna de Yard, a documentary about reggae music (www.somersethouse.org.uk). The Luna Cinema also brings pop-up screens to grand locations, such as the Old Royal Naval College and Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. Order a box of crispbreads, cherry jam and Bath Blue cheese from The Cheese Geek and you’re all set to watch A Star is Born at Kensington Palace, The Favourite at Opera Holland Park or Bohemian Rhapsody at Hampton Court Palace (www.thelunacinema.com). Pop Up Screens is a similar concept with food stalls and popcorn. You could also take a picnic. Highlights include 500 Days of Summer in Ravenscourt Park or Baby Driver in Coram’s Fields in Holborn (www.popupscreens.co.uk).
Backyard Cinema creates themed sets for its screenings – this summer’s LA Nights season is in the grounds of the Roundhouse in Camden. Order drinks at a beach bar and sit among palm trees to sing along to Dirty Dancing and Pretty Woman. Even if the English weather wants to spoil things, there’s a tent providing shelter in case of rain (www.backyardcinema.co.uk).
SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor
SOMERSET HOUSE © JAMES BRYANT; MIAMI BEACH COURTESY OF BACKYARD CINEMA
‘Last summer I sang along to Grease in an amphitheatre and watched Jaws in a lido’
Somerset House
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PRESENTS
BOUBLIL & SCHÖNBERG’S
LYRICS BY HERBERT KRETZMER MICHAEL
ALFIE
MATT
CARRIE HOPE
BALL • BOE • LUCAS • FLETCHER LEAD A CAST AND ORCHESTRA OF OVER 65
FOR 16 WEEKS ONLY AT THE GIELGUD THEATRE CHECK DAILY FOR RETURNS & PREMIUM SEATS
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Aladdin To 24 Aug: This West End hit
has a stellar cast and tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me, with lyrics by Tim Rice – plus a real magic carpet. When street urchin Aladdin stumbles across an ancient lamp in the Cave of Wonders, he unwittingly releases the weird and wonderful Genie. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Bare: A Pop Opera To 4 Aug: This rock-pop musical follows a group of students at a Catholic boarding school as they attempt to put on a production of Romeo and Juliet, while grappling with issues of sexuality, identity and their future. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£39.50. www.thevaults. london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards, including Best New Musical. Check for times. Tickets £29.75-£100. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
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A royal treat
If you want to envisage what it would be like to have tea with the Queen, now you can experience it for yourself at immersive comedy experience A Right Royale Tea (p. 60). Over an afternoon tea of scones, sandwiches, cakes and cups of tea, you’ll be royally entertained at Amba Hotel Charing Cross by Lord and Lady Right and their servants as they host you in an attempt to raise funds for their dilapidated castle. Lady Right gets tipsy while her husband searches for a rich suitor for his daughter, Ginny, in this mostly improvised show with mischievous maids and boisterous butlers.
Come from Away
Hamilton
Powerful musical about how a tight-knit community on a Canadian island rallied round to host 7,000 international passengers, stranded in the wake of the US terrorist attacks in 2001. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24£108. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway. It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the American founding father, Alexander Hamilton – a poor, orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.
Everybody’s Talking about Jamie
The Illusionists
This award-winning musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, northern England, and tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330333 4809. D7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Falcon’s Malteser
A KLASS ACT The dulcet tones of musician and TV presenter Myleene Klass provide the narration to Where Is Peter Rabbit?, a magical, family-friendly show based on Beatrix Potter’s books at Theatre Royal Haymarket. www.peterrabbitlive.com
To 25 Aug: Anthony Horowitz’s comedy about the Diamond Brothers Detective Agency, following a hapless private investigator. Tue-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat-Sun 3pm. Tickets £15£35. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo/ Waterloo East.
Fiddler on the Roof Old traditions and young love collide in this Broadway musical, which follows Tevye’s daughters as their unexpected choices of husbands open his heart to new possibilities in his close-knit Jewish community. Featuring well-known songs such as If I Were a Rich Man. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8. Station: Embankment.
Seven stars, each with their own talent, perform a spectacular show of illusion and stunts. Check for times. Tickets £27-£125. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Jesus Christ Superstar To 24 Aug: After two seasons at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s brilliant, Olivier Award-winning musical transfers to the Barbican. The incredible set, catchy rock opera score and innovative staging will keep your attention. Check for times. Tickets £15-£62.50. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat Sheridan Smith and Jason Donovan star in this musical, which has classic tunes written and composed by Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£150. www.reallyusefultheatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 88-89
COUPLE WITH DRINKS COURTESY OF A RIGHT ROYALE TEA; WHERE IS PETER RABBIT? © DAVE HOGAN
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
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ENTERTAINMENT
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THE BR I L L IA N T OR IG I NA L
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ENTERTAINMENT
From 10 Aug: Michael Ball,
Alfie Boe and Matt Lucas star in this temporary staging of the legendary musical, featuring the show’s well-known songs. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh. co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0344-482 5138. D8. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Secret Diary of Adrian Mole Aged 13¾ – The Musical
Sue Townsend‘s best-selling tale of teenage angst, family Charles Kean’s 1856 struggles and unrequited love London version of is told through the eyes of the A Midsummer Night’s misunderstood intellectual. Dream had 90 sprites Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat wearing tutus 2.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets from £15. www.theambassadorstheatre.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. The Lion King T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square. Wonderful adaptation of the Disney
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular hits of Swedish supergroup ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. The humour is spot-on for adults and children. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
9 to 5 The Musical Fun Dolly Parton musical about women who seek revenge on their sexist boss, starring Louise Redknapp, Bonnie Langford and Brian Conley. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. www.9to5themusical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
On Your Feet! To 31 Aug: Straight from Broadway, this musical tells the story of Gloria Estefan falling in love with fellow band member Emilio from Miami Sound Machine. Switching between Cuba and Miami, it blends pop music with Latin beats. Check for times and prices. www.onyourfeetmusical.co.uk. London Coliseum, 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Only Fools and Horses: The Musical Comical musical based on the hit British sitcom that ran throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, about a loveable wheeler-dealer scheming how to get rich. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £16.80-£175. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. A wannabe rock star poses as a supply teacher and tries to turn his students into a rock band. Check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tina – The Tina Turner Musical Hit musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, aka Tina Turner, with songs including the 1984 smash What’s Love Got to Do with It? and River Deep, Mountain High. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£159.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
Toast To 3 Aug: Food writer and
broadcaster Nigel Slater vividly recreates suburban England in the 1960s, where his childhood is told through tastes and smells. Mon-Wed & Fri 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£65. www.theother palace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. F7. Station: Victoria.
Jenna is a waitress and expert pie-maker who dreams of a way out of her small town and rocky marriage. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£150. www.waitressthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
PLAYS Actually 6-31 Aug: Amber and Tom hook up at a party at their elite American university and spend the night together. They agree on the drinking, they agree on the attraction, but what actually happened between them? This play investigates topics of sexual consent, race and gender politics. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.
Appropriate From 16 Aug: The Lafayette family gather at their late father’s home in Arkansas to bury the hatchet and prepare the former plantation for its estate sale – until they make a discovery that changes everything. Please check for times and prices. www.donmarware house.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
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Oh, Romeo!
Matthew Bourne, the acclaimed choreographer behind contemporary interpretatons of Swan Lake, The Red Shoes and Sleeping Beauty, is behind this new production of Romeo and Juliet at Sadler’s Wells (7-31 Aug; p. 62). Shakespeare’s doomed romance is brought alive by 97 young dancers, all making their debuts with Bourne’s dance company New Adventures, which is dedicated to developing emerging talent. The title roles are played by six rising stars, dancing to a live score performed by the New Adventures Orchestra. Following its world premiere in Leicester, these dates are part of a UK tour.
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film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Waitress
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Les Misérables
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MAGIC SPECTACULAR
IMAGE © JOHAN PERSSON
RETURNS TO LONDON WITH AN ALL NEW SHOW
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ENTERTAINMENT The Hunt
Night of a thousand stars
Evita makes a welcome return to the London stage, 41 years after its West End premiere. Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical is already the fastest-selling production in the history of Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (from 2 Aug; p. 60). Like the 1996 film, starring Madonna, the musical is based on the life of Eva Perón (Samantha Pauly from Bat Out of Hell), an actress from a working-class family who married Argentina’s president Juan Perón (Ektor Rivera from On Your Feet!) and became the nation’s first lady in 1946. Both actors are making their UK debuts. Expect classic tunes including the rousing Don’t Cry for Me Argentina. The musical is directed by Jamie Lloyd, who has worked on Apologia, Urinetown and more recently Betrayal at the Harold Pinter Theatre.
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Bitter Wheat This new play by David Mamet stars John Malkovich. It follows a bloated Hollywood mogul in the public eye who falls from grace. Sound familiar? Mon-Sat; please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
Captain Corelli’s Mandolin To 31 Aug: Captain Corelli, an enigmatic young Italian officer, is posted to the Greek island of Cephalonia in 1941 as part of the occupying forces. He soon meets Dr Iannis’ daughter Pelagia and discovers how love can blossom in the most unexpected and profound ways. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Please check for prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The End of History To 10 Aug: Sal and David would rather feed their kids with leftist ideals and welfarism than fancy cuisine. When you’ve named each of your offspring after your socialist heroes, you’ve given them a lot to live up to. Lesley Sharp and David Morrissey star in Jack Thorne’s family drama, which is directed by John Tiffany. MonSat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Please check for prices. www.royalcourttheatre.com. Royal Court Theatre, Sloane Square, SW1W 8AS. T: 020-7565 5000. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
The Girl on the Train To 17 Aug: Rachel Watson longs
for a different life. Her only escape is the perfect couple she watches through the train window every day, happy and in love. Or so it appears. When Rachel learns that the woman she’s been secretly watching has suddenly disappeared, she finds herself as a witness and even a suspect in a thrilling mystery, in which she will face bigger revelations than she could ever have anticipated. Based on the popular novel. Please check for times and prices. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Hansard From 22 Aug: It’s a summer morning in 1988 and Tory politician Robin Hesketh has returned home to the Cotswolds house he shares with his wife of 30 years, Diana. But all is not as blissful as it seems. Diana has a stinking hangover, a fox is destroying the garden and secrets are being dug up all over the place. As the day draws on, what starts as gentle ribbing and the familiar rhythms of marital sparring quickly turns to a blood sport. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story has already won many awards. Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Lehman Trilogy To 3 Aug: Sam Mendes (The Ferryman, Skyfall) directs Simon Russell Beale, Adam Godley and Ben Miles, who reprise their roles as the Lehman Brothers and their sons and grandsons. On a cold September morning in 1844 a young man from Bavaria stands on a New York dockside, dreaming of a new life in the New World. He is joined by his two brothers and an American epic begins. But 163 years later, the firm they establish – Lehman Brothers – collapses into bankruptcy, triggering the largest financial crisis in history. Told in three parts on a single evening, this play is the story of a family and a company that changed the world. Please check for times. Tickets £18-£145. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
A Midsummer Night’s Dream To 31 Aug: This classic romance by Shakespeare takes place in the round, with seating wrapped around the action that allows for the story to be followed on foot. Check for times. Tickets £15-£69.50. www.bridgetheatre.co.uk. Bridge Theatre, 3 Potters Field Park, SE1 2SG. T: 0333-320 0051. E11. Station: London Bridge.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Night of the Iguana Clive Owen, Lia Williams and Breaking Bad’s Anna Gunn star in Tennessee Williams’ play, which is set in 1940. A group of lost souls collide on a hotel verandah in a rainforest in Mexico: a defrocked priest-turned-tour guide, a grieving widow who runs the hotel, a family of jubilant Nazis and an itinerant portrait artist with her 97-year-old poet grandfather. The result is a battle between flesh and spirit, captivity and freedom, art and faith, heightened by a rainstorm. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Pericles To 21 Aug: The spirit of fairy tale is never far from the surface of Pericles, the first of Shakespeare’s late romances. This play sees Pericles, Prince of Tyre, forced to flee his own kingdom and wander the world. Check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Peter Gynt Peter Gynt has always set his heart on being special, on being a unique individual, on being unlike anyone else. When he steals the bride from a local wedding, he sets off on a lifetime journey which will take him to Florida, Egypt, a mountain of trolls and finally, when death approaches, back to his home in Scotland. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
EVITA COURTESY OF REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE
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To 3 Aug: Based on the Danish film thriller Jagten, about a man whose life is ruined by an untruthful remark. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£42.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NEW YORK POST
THE MUSICAL #BeMoreMatilda
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ENTERTAINMENT The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about an amateur drama society staging a murder mystery, where everything that could go wrong, does. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Present Laughter To 10 Aug: Matthew Warchus directs this Noël Coward comedy which has themes of fame, narcissism and loneliness. An actor is preparing to embark on an overseas tour, but is engulfed in an identity crisis as his relationships compete for his attention, leaving his remaining days at home a whirlwind of love, sex, panic and soul-searching. Starring Andrew Scott (TV’s Fleabag). Check for times. Tickets £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Rutherford and Son
From 22 Aug: A moving journey into Australia’s dark history, adapted from Kate Grenville’s novel. William Thornhill, a convict from the slums of London, arrives in New South Wales. Upon earning his pardon he discovers that this new world offers something he didn’t dare dream of: a place to call his own. But as he plants a crop and lays claim to the soil on the banks of the Hawkesbury River, he finds that this land is not his to take: its ancient custodians are the Dharug people. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£89. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The Starry Messenger To 10 Aug: Hollywood star and Tony Award-winner Matthew Broderick makes his West End debut in this comic drama alongside Elizabeth McGovern (Downton Abbey, The Handmaid’s Tale). Written by the Academy Award-winning writer of Manchester by the Sea, it follows Mark Williams as an astronomer at New York City’s Planetarium. But he feels a closer connection to the sky than to his job or his wife, Anne. After a chance meeting with Angela, a young single mother, Mark feels starry-eyed. But when a catastrophic event rips through their lives, he is forced to re-evaluate his place in the universe. Please check for times. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Tree To 24 Aug: Actor and DJ Idris Elba’s album Mi Mandela provides the score to director Kwame Kwei-Armah’s new drama, which is set in contemporary South Africa. It’s just 12 hours from London to his parents’ homeland, but to Kaleo (Alfred Enoch), South Africa is another world. When a family tragedy forces him to visit for the first time, Kaleo must right the wrongs
of the past. But first he must face the present: a shattered family, fighting to hold on to what they believe is theirs, in a nation haunted by the ghosts of its own turbulent past. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Twelfth Night To 21 Aug: When a shipwreck tears a family apart, twins Sebastian and Viola seek refuge in a new land. This play depicts cruelty through comedy, poetry and songs. Check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe. com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
A Very Expensive Poison From 20 Aug: This world premiere is based on a book by Luke Harding, which shines a spotlight on the death of the former Federal Security Service officer Alexander Litvinenko. Suitable for over-12s. Please check for times. Ticket £12-£65. www.oldvic theatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Weatherman From 15 Aug: Beezer and O’Rourke live on the fringes of society in a dingy London flat, struggling to make ends meet. Despite living life at the bottom of the heap, the savage banter of their dysfunctional friendship keeps the pair afloat. When their dodgy landlord, Dollar, makes them a ‘business’ proposition, O’Rourke finds
himself selling out for the cost of a few months’ rent. The price? Take care of a mystery special package. Just for a few months. Easy job. Easy money. As the weight of a heavy conscience becomes too much to bear, the outlook for tomorrow becomes increasingly dark. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £18.50-£23.50. www.parktheatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.
Witness for the Prosecution This show is based on Agatha Christie’s courtroom drama, Witness for the Prosecution, and is staged in a former courtroom. Check for times. Tickets from £10-£79.50. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES Absolutely 80s Live Band 21 Aug: Dress in your best 1980s outfit and party to a band in a grand music hall. 7.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley (pedestrian access only), E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
BBC PROMS © CHRIS CHRISTODOULOU
The Secret River
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A class act
Classical music fans are spoilt for choice during BBC Proms (to 14 Sep; p. 60), an annual summer-long festival which dates back to 1895 and is held mainly at the magnificent Royal Albert Hall, with occasional events at Cadogan Hall. Traditionalists will enjoy the BBC Philharmonic Orchestra performing Rachmaninov and Shostakovich (4 Aug), the BBC Symphony Orchestra playing Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony (19 Aug) and Benjamin Britten’s Synfonia playing Mozart’s concerto for two pianos (28 Aug). It’s not all about the classics, though. There’s a rich mix on offer, including family-friendly events, workshops, late-night Proms including The Sound of Space: Sci-Fi Film Music and Duke Ellington’s Sacred Music, plus free events and talks.
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To 3 Aug: Roger Allam (Les Misérables, The Thick of It) returns to the National for the first time in a decade to play John Rutherford in this new play set in a northern industrial town. Rutherford rules his factory and family with an iron will. But even as the furnaces burn relentlessly at the Glassworks, at home his children begin to turn against him. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£68. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Retro, interactive experience based on a fun TV show. Participants work in groups to solve mental and physical puzzles against the clock, aiming to build up time for the ultimate challenge in the Dome. Please check for times and prices. www.the-crystal-maze.com. 22-32 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EJ. T: 0161-791 0727. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
held outdoors, in Hyde Park, while most events take place in the Royal Albert Hall. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
DID YOU KNOW? The Mousetrap is the longest-running play in London – it’s been on stage for more than 66 years
The Luna Cinema
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this hilarious theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Tickets include a three-course meal. Please check for times. Tickets £75-£80. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Goodge Street.
A Right Royale Tea Enjoy an afternoon tea with a royal theme (p. 52). Join the fictitious Lord and Lady Right and their servants as they try to raise funds to save their crumbling castle during this two-hour comical dining experience. Enjoy unexpected 1920s elegance and a stiff upper lip during a delightful traditional afternoon tea including scones, sandwiches and cakes. With mischievous maids, boisterous butlers, a magical daughter and a diva songstress, what could possibly go wrong? Please check for times and prices. www.aright royaletea.co.uk. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
The War of the Worlds Experience the Martian invasion from HG Wells’ 1898 science-fiction novel The War of the Worlds, which was reinvented as a musical by Jeff Wayne. In groups of 12, you’ll be guided by live and virtual actors as you walk, crawl and slide through scenes of Victorians sipping tea at home, while Martians roam outside and a Martian Fighting Machine rises above them. Thanks to virtual-reality headsets and holograms, the experience will seem real, especially when you feel the ground shake as the first cylinder lands. Please check for times and prices. www.dotdot.london. Old Metal Exchange, 56 Leadenhall St, EC3A 2BJ. D11. Station: Aldgate.
This annual summer festival of outdoor film screens classic films and blockbusters. Enjoy Dreamgirls, Ghostbusters and The Rocky Horror Picture Show under the stars at iconic venues around London and the UK, from the beautiful Alexandra Palace near Wood Green to Crystal Palace Park in south London (p. 50). Check for times and prices. www.thelunacinema.com. Various locations. T: 0844-858 6767.
Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre Every summer you can enjoy shows under the stars. This month you can watch Evita (from 2 Aug; p. 56). Check for times and prices. www.openair theatre.com. Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.
Summer by the River
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
An annual festival of free events around the Scoop near City Hall, which includes mass karaoke, salsa lessons by the Cuban Dance School and Bollywood dance. www.londonbridgecity.co.uk. London Bridge City, SE1 2DB. E11. Station: London Bridge.
BBC Proms
Underbelly Festival
An annual, historic celebration of classical music that caters to all budgets and tastes (p. 58). In recent years other genres and venues have been included in the programme. The grand finale is
Comedy, circus, cabaret and family shows. Please check for times and prices. www.under bellyfestival.com. Belvedere Rd Coach Park, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
THE MOUSETRAP © ISTOCK
The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience
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THE MUSIC LIVES ON! Paul Walden & Derek Nicol for Flying Music in association with Adrian Grant for Key Concerts present
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THE T PERFECER SUMM T TREA
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ENTERTAINMENT
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican To 6 Aug: Ludovico Einaudi: Seven Days Walking. This concert is divided into seven episodes, each with its own theme. Please check for times, prices and returns. www.barbican. org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church
The Jazz Cafe
Programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 5 Aug: Ned Doheny. 7 Aug: Newcleus. 10 Aug: Sister Nancy. 16 Aug: Michael Henderson. 19 Aug: A Night of Reggae. Check for times and prices. www.thejazz cafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Alexandra Palace Theatre 3 Aug: Graham Nash and his band perform live. 7.30pm. Tickets £39.50-£59.50. www.alexandra palace.com. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 020-8365 2121. Off map. Station: Wood Green, then W3 bus.
IT’S ATMOSPHERIC
IT’S AN EVENT
IT’S A TREAT TIMES
IT’S A TRIUMPH MAIL ON SUNDAY
Kings Place 1 Aug: Hildegard: Visions. A sensory experience,
taking the life and work of mystic Hildegard von Bingen as its starting point. 8pm. Tickets £9.50. www.kingsplace.co.uk. Kings Place, 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
The O2 Enormous venue for live music and events. 9 Aug: Salt-N-Pepa (in Indigo at The O2). 17 & 19-20 Aug: Ariana Grande. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 10 Aug: Terry Raid Band. 6pm & 10.30pm. Tickets £35-£57.50. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Southbank Centre 9 Aug: Eurythmics Songbook. David Stewart
and his band perform the greatest hits of the Eurythmics, at the special request of Meltdown curator Nile Rodgers. 7.30pm. Tickets £50-£75. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
DANCE Royal Opera House To 10 Aug: Spartacus, by the Bolshoi Ballet. Yuri Grigorovich’s sensational production of this Russian favourite. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sadler’s Wells 7-31 Aug: Romeo and Juliet. Matthew Bourne’s New Adventures company performs this tragic ballet (p. 54). Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
OPERA Opera Holland Park
A UNIQUE COURTROOM STAGING AT LONDON COUNTY HALL, SOUTHBANK SE1 (NEAR TO THE LONDON EYE)
witnesscountyhall.com
Outdoor summer venue for this annual festival. To 2 Aug: L’arlesiana. Francesco Cilea’s tragedy of desperate passion, jealousy and rigid moral codes in the heat of rural Provence. To 3 Aug: Il Segreto di Susanna/ Iolanta. Newlyweds Gil and Susanna learn more about each other in Wolf-Ferrari’s 1909 farce of modern manners. Please check for times and prices. www.rbkc.gov.uk/operahollandpark. Stable Yard, Holland Park, W8 6LU. T: 0300-999 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The Peacock From 31 Aug: British Youth Opera: Scoring a Century. A witty opera themed around war, politics, Hollywood and Fox News. Check for times. Tickets from £10. www.sadlerswells.com. Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.
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‘A
RAW MUSICAL TRIUMPH.’ ANN TRENEM AN, THE TIMES
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THERE IS ONLY ONE
P R E S EN T ED I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
TINA TURNER
THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL S E AT S R E L E A S E D DA I LY
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ENTERTAINMENT
CHILDREN & FAMILIES Aesop’s Fables To 4 Aug: Aesop was a slave who lived in Greece between 620 and 564 BC. He was also a storyteller whose 725 stories have passed from generation to generation. Select writers tell one fable each. The show comes in two versions; the first is for ages eight to 12 and the second is for ages four to seven. Please check for times. Tickets £8-£20. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.
In the heart of Leicester Square
Baby Broadway 3 Aug: The whole family can sing and dance to songs from Mary Poppins, The Sound of Music, The Lion King, Frozen and more. The show includes bubbles and puppets, too. Suitable for undereights. 10.15am & 11.30am. www.theotherpalace. co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. Off map. Station: Victoria.
Cadogan Hall
Last minute & discount theatre tickets
To 25 Aug: Zog. Zog is so eager to win a golden star at Madam Dragon’s school, where dragons learn all the things that dragons need to know. Zog tries so very hard – perhaps too hard. He bumps, burns and roars his way through years one, two and three. Luckily, the plucky Princess Pearl patches him up ready to face his biggest challenge yet – a duel with Gadabout the Great. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
My Son Pinocchio Jr To 14 Aug: The classic tale of Geppetto’s little wooden puppet is retold in this new musical from a fresh perspective. When the Blue Fairy grants Geppetto’s wish to bring his beloved puppet to life, the new father quickly learns that being a parent is full of challenges. He struggles to make his son ‘the perfect boy’, losing him to a gang of Roustabouts. When faced with the thought of never seeing Pinocchio again, Geppetto truly learns the meaning of family and being a father. 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £14-£22. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
The Slightly Annoying Elephant To 4 Aug: Based on a book written by David Walliams, this show is brought to life with puppets. One day Sam gets a surprise as a tired, hungry, antique-loving elephant turns up on his doorstep. Adopting an elephant at the zoo turned out to be more than he bargained for as he didn’t realise it would actually come to live with him. Suitable for ages three to eight. Please check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
The Worst Witch
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SHOPPING MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular covered centre for arts, crafts and souvenir stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd; look out for the quirky shops at World’s End. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street
Hamleys
Europe’s busiest shopping street has department stores, plus major high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. It also has children’s entertainers and demonstrations of toys and games. Please check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. Famous stores include Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Richard James. E7. Station: Green Park.
Seven Dials In the heart of Covent Garden are seven streets of boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason Established in 1707, this British institution is famed for its food hall, which sells fudge, macarons, tea and more. There is also an afternoon tea lounge. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Harrods Browse magnificent Edwardian food and meat halls and a range of fashion and cosmetics, then stay for afternoon tea. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
John Lewis & Partners Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Please check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Liberty Famous for its prints and haberdashery department. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Marks & Spencer Reliable source for clothes, lingerie and food. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksand spencer.com (multiple locations). 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch. This is the largest shop on Oxford Street: visit the department store for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade is home to high-end specialist shops. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Leadenhall Market A beautiful Victorian covered market in the City. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.
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FASHION
Your cup of tea
Alexander McQueen
If you’re after souvenirs to take home, visit the London Transport Museum’s shop (p. 46). It sells prints of vintage Tube posters, mini models of vehicles and transportinspired cushions. It has recently expanded its collection with new mugs decorated with the iconic Tube roundel and featuring London Underground lines. Take your pick from a green District mug, a brown Bakerloo one or the much-anticipated purple Elizabeth line, which is due to open later this year.
Flagship fashion boutique with clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.
Burberry Find a classic trench coat for men, women or children by this British label, which also has a monogramming service. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
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MUGS COURTESY OF LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM SHOP; LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM © ISTOCK
Selfridges
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SHOPPING Camden Market
Portobello Road Market
‘ Make the most of the warm weather and head to one of our outdoor markets’
IMAGES © ISTOCK
W
hen you’re on holiday, wherever you are in the world, markets are often a place to pick up a one-off item that you won’t find anywhere else. You’ll often meet the maker and have a story to tell when you’re back home. With the warm weather, it’s a great time to go shopping outside. Markets don’t have to mean downmarket. Portobello Road Market is one of the largest antique markets in the world. With Notting Hill Carnival taking place at the end of this month, it’s the perfect time to explore the area. With its homes painted in pretty pastel colours, it’s a popular place for Instagrammers. The market began to emerge in the 1940s, selling everything from fruit to bric-a-brac. Today there are more than 1,000 dealers along half a mile of road, so it gets busy. The ideal time to visit is on a Saturday (it’s closed on Sunday); try to arrive before 11am, so you can see the best items before they go. Browse everything from silverware to first-edition books – and don’t be afraid to haggle (www.portobelloroad.co.uk).
Spitalfields
Thanks to its musical heritage, Camden is one of the coolest places in London. It has been home to British musicians, from Suggs to Amy Winehouse. If you want to experience the vibe for yourself, visit Camden Market. Influenced by punks, bohemians and mods, many of the shops specialise in alternative fashion, such as slogan T-shirts, platform boots and experimental jewellery. As many British designers started out with stalls here, including Wayne Hemingway from Red or Dead, you may well stumble on the next big thing (www.camdenmarket.com). Spitalfields is one of London’s oldest markets. Founded in 1197, the area has always been home to new immigrant communities,
including the Huguenots, Irish and Jews. The market is open every day, but is busiest on Saturdays. Here you’ll find more than 80 designers selling clothing and accessories, particularly fashion-forward pieces. The Arts Market (1-4 Aug), meanwhile, is held on Market Street, and boasts affordable work by emerging and established artists. You can talk to the artists, giving you the opportunity to find out the backstory of your new work of art (www.spitalfields.co.uk).
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Links of London’s Orbs collection features freshwater pearls set in modern pieces. The jewellery is inspired by architecture and geometry. Take your pick from bracelets, necklaces and earrings, which all come in sterling silver. 5a Jubilee Market Hall, 30 Tavistock Court, WC2E 8RF. T: 020-7240 7391. www.linksoflondon.com
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SHOPPING Chanel
Japan Centre
Exuding style and class in all of its designs and products, fashion-forward shoppers can browse accessories, clothing and bags. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.
Outlet for traditional food and ingredients from Japan. www.japancentre.com. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hackett This store is for shoppers who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look. www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY (multiple locations). T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS
London Glassblowing Pick up a souvenir at this gallery and shop. You can take part in a glassblowing class, too. www.london glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
The Noble Collection Explore licensed, finely crafted treasures from Fantastic Beasts, Harry Potter, Game of Thrones and The Lord of the Rings. Find gifts, collectibles, prop
replicas and jewellery. www.noblecollection.co.uk. 26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9QQ. T: 020-3795 6298. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Red Bus Shop This souvenir shop stocks London-related products. Look out for the Harry Potter range. www.redbusshop. co.uk. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ (and branches). T: 020-7401 7033. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Twinings Trading since 1706, this historic shop stocks a huge variety of teas, infusions and teapots. Daily, check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shopping. Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
London Designer Outlet Mall with around 70 high-street retailers offering reductions of up to 70 per cent. Check for times. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0RX. T: 020-8912 5210. Off map. Station: Wembley Stadium/Wembley Central.
Westfield London This huge shopping centre has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Westfield Stratford City This huge mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/ stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
SPECTACULAR SUMMER SAVINGS AT LONDON’S FAVOURITE OUTLET CENTRE Minutes from central London; 50 big brand shops offering savings of UP TO 70% OFF* Get an EXTRA 10% OFF outlet prices** Visit LDO Guest Services for your exclusive Privilege Card.
JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This esteemed British jewellery brand sells beautiful couture designs, hand-crafted using fine stones. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. There is an engraving service, too. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD (and branches). T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store Outstanding collection of LEGO merchandise of all varieties, plus a ‘Pick and Build’ wall. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
Wembley Park Wembley Stadium HA9 0RX www.LondonDesignerOutlet.com Savings off RRP Available at most LDO outlet stores. T&C apply.
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LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET WEMBLEY PARK
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The Stratford
Adam Handling Chelsea
DINING
Dessert at Allegra
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nless you’re a guest, hotel restaurants can be tucked away and easily missed, but these three new ones should certainly be on your radar. Adam Handling recently opened Adam Handling Chelsea in Belmond Cadogan Hotel, Chelsea. Even though it has an open kitchen and velvet stools at a counter, its high ceilings, cream wooden panelling and fireplace make it feel like a dining room. The restaurant has its own entrance and tables are well-spaced out, which makes it ideal for a business lunch – or a romantic dinner once the lights have dimmed. Its compact British menu features ingredients grown by small producers. I was tempted by its signature cheese doughnuts, but instead began with a bite-size king crab quiche, creamy with a touch of chilli and a real highlight. My friend opted for soft scallops on yuzu jelly with capers.
My main course was halibut with pickled kohlrabi, brown shrimps and samphire, with a light oyster and caviar gravy poured on top; my friend opted for John Dory in a pool of lettuce gazpacho. The side dishes accompanied these perfectly: minty Jersey Royals and a wedge of roasted hispi cabbage in ranch dressing, scattered with fried onions. The portions were just right, so we had space for a dessert of chocolate stout mousse, whipped miso and buckwheat crumb – a deconstructed cheesecake with shards of chocolate wafer. We also shared a black sesame panna cotta, which was complemented by a tart cherry sorbet and decorated with cherry blossom (www.adamhandlingchelsea.co.uk). The team behind New York’s Scarpetta Restaurants is giving Adam Handling Chelsea a run for its money, after it opened Sette in the Bvlgari Hotel in nearby Knightsbridge.
Sette means seven in Italian – a lucky number – so expect authentic Italian cuisine such as baked bread and Scarpetta’s signature dish: spaghetti with tomato and basil. If you want to linger, stay for cocktails, live music and sounds from a DJ in Nolita Social downstairs (www.bulgarihotels.com). Elsewhere, Allegra has opened on the seventh floor of The Stratford hotel in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Patrick Powell, the former head chef of the Chiltern Firehouse, serves modern European cuisine made using produce grown in the restaurant’s roof garden. On a sunny day, sit outdoors among the blooms (www.thestratford.co.uk).
SARAH RICHES Dining Editor
ADAM HANDLING CHELSEA COURTESY OF BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL, CHELSEA; THE STRATFORD © LUKE HAYES; DESSERT © SAM A HARRIS
‘It’s It’s time to put these restaurants on your radar’
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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Following a two-year redevelopment, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 26) now has a new café, just in time for summer. The Pavilion Bar and Grill, near the Temperate House and Great Pagoda, is inspired by its surroundings. It’s decorated with trees, while skylights and glass walls mean it bursts with sunlight and offers garden views. On a sunny day, bag one of the 380 seats on the terrace, which has vines creeping down a pergola. The venue specialises in locally sourced meat cooked on a Josper grill, giving it a delicious barbecued taste. I chose vegan halloumi seasoned with herbs foraged from the gardens and a huge bowl of Eton mess, which was the best I’ve ever had.
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A Michelin star chef has opened an Indian restaurant in Mayfair. Atul Kochhar was the world’s first Indian chef to receive the coveted award. After working at Tamarind, he opened Benares, and now Kanishka. Named after a king, Kanishka serves dishes from the region bordering Nepal, Bhutan, China and Bangladesh. As the area is remote, salting, smoking and fermenting are common, while soya, raw meat, dumplings and noodles are on the menu – try the Tibetan guinea fowl noodle soup, goat curry and rice pudding with pineapple shaved ice. The decor is contemporary with Indian accents such as an antique front door and topiary elephants. 17-19 Maddox St, W1S 2QH. T: 020-3978 0978. www.kanishkarestaurant.co.uk
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Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house, plus dishes including roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, with iconic rock memorabilia. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
JW Steakhouse
Rainforest Cafe
Darwin Brasserie
Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. Children will love dining among faux foliage, with moving elephants and parrots in the trees. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe. co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie Talkie’, with amazing views. Opt for the three-course weekend brunch menu. Booking recommended. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument/Cannon Street.
BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard A slick restaurant wth stunning views on The Shard’s 31st floor. Dishes might include seared halibut, stuffed globe artichoke and black truffle fries. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Aviary
Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef with various sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Smart restaurant with a rooftop terrace, serving hearty British dishes including Sunday roasts. £££. Daily L & D. www.aviarylondon.com. Montcalm Royal London House hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 4000. C11. Station: Moorgate.
Oblix
Caxton Grill
This sophisticated rotisserie, grill and woodfired oven on the 32nd floor of The Shard serves dishes such as barbecued black cod. The venue has stunning views. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblix restaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Steaks and seafood cooked on a Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as honey-marinated tuna steak. This luxury venue also has a terrace and bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
Planet Hollywood
The Clove Club
Hollywood-inspired dining experience with film memorabilia and an international menu specialising in classic American favourites. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This Michelin-starred restaurant in the 19th-century Shoreditch Town Hall serves ambitious dishes such as Yorkshire suckling pig with Indian spices. £££. Tue-Sat L; Mon-Sat D. www.thecloveclub.com. Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, EC1V 9LT. T: 020-7729 6496. C11. Station: Hoxton.
Fenchurch Restaurant This smart venue at the top of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ has great views and serves seafood such as Cornish mackerel and Isle of Mull scallops. Save room for dessert. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument/Cannon Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s Reading Room, under its domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Holborn Dining Room This grand brasserie adjoining the Rosewood hotel has some counter seating – ideal for solo travellers – and a leafy terrace. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndiningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Montagu Kitchen Wonderful hotel brasserie. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.themontagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Rex Whistler Restaurant Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant features a mural. It’s known for its award-winning wine list and seasonal menu. ££. Daily L. www.tate. org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 0207887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 88-89
THE PAVILION BAR AND GRILL © RBG, KEW
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH)
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Sophie’s Steakhouse
Hakkasan
The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a covered terrace and serves grilled steaks. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern Cantonese dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
St Pancras by Searcys
Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Wagyu beef and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Elegant brasserie in the Eurostar terminal, plus a Champagne bar overlooking the platform. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.stpancrasbysearcys. co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
LE MÉRIDIEN PICCADILLY Children will love the Peter Rabbit afternoon tea, served in the hotel’s terrace glasshouse. As well as vegetable patch sandwiches, kids can nibble on mini carrot cake muffins with iced ‘carrots’ and a ‘mushroom’ made with strawberry ganache. Little ones will receive Peter Rabbit goodies and there’s a Peter Rabbit trail across the hotel.
www.marriott.co.uk
VIVI All-day dining, including afternoon tea. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant
Once you’ve seen the Crown Jewels inside the Tower of London nearby, order the Crown Jewels tea in the hotel’s Rotunda Lounge. A pianist and singer provide entertainment while you enjoy sandwiches, scones and treats by executive pastry chef Sylvain Nicolas. Try a cherry and liquorice macaron sprayed silver and decorated with jewels and edible diamonds.
www.fourseasons.com
Royal China This flagship serves Cantonese dishes such as crispy aromatic duck and is popular for its all-day dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.royalchina group.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.
danced at The Ritz in 1912, six years after it opened
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
Underneath a landmark church, this brick-vaulted café serves English dishes at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, off Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
This brasserie, in a Grade II-listed former bank, serves grilled kippers, caramelised duck and sausages with mustard mash. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Cheneston’s
The Delaunay
1 Lombard Street
This wood-panelled dining room has Victorian leaded windows. The menu offers classic British dishes such as venison. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés, you can expect wooden panelling and European dishes such as schnitzel, borscht and strudel. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. D8. Station: Temple.
The English Grill
Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant with a daily-changing menu. Booking essential. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Dine under chandeliers and high ceilings at this grand hotel restaurant. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Palm Court
The Ritz Restaurant
Harrods (p. 66) has invited prominent pâtisserie chefs from Paris this summer. Sample treats made by Pastry World Cup winner Angelo Musa (2-11 Aug) and Yann Couvreur (16-25 Aug) with his quirky take on classics – try his hazelnut and chocolate pastry. You can buy their limited-edition pastries from the Roastery & Bake Hall.
Upmarket restaurant serving Chinese and Japanese cuisine such as sushi, dim sum, Peking duck and Szechuan chicken. Columns and tall ceilings make it grand. ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
DID YOU KNOW?
This opulent lounge serves afternoon tea among plants in a conservatory. ££. Check for times. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
THE HARRODS TEA ROOMS
Mei Ume
This elegant hotel restaurant is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chester fieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. The Russian prima Station: Green Park. ballerina Anna Pavlova
Café in the Crypt
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE
Kai Mayfair
Enjoy outstanding British dishes in a beautiful room. Men must wear a jacket and tie. Booking recommended. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E7. Station: Green Park.
Galvin at Windows
Ting This smart restaurant in The Shard serves Asian-influenced dishes with locally sourced produce. Stunning setting and views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler
CHINESE
Michelin-starred seafood such as Dorset crab in a contemporary, bright settting. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.
Chai Wu
Fancy Crab
This contemporary restaurant on the fifth floor of Harrods serves dishes such as Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Crab connoisseurs are in the right place. Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine and crab burgers. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab. co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.
LE MÉRIDIEN © JONATHAN STEWART; CROWN JEWELS TEA COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE; THE HARRODS TEA ROOMS COURTESY OF HARRODS
Time for
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REVIEW
J Sheekey Chic seafood restaurant loved by the rich and famous for more than a century. There is also an oyster and Champagne bar. Sit outside on a sunny evening. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Shell Co Dine on a five-course menu aboard a canal boat, with delicacies such as cured Dorset char with egg yolk confit. Diners share tables. £££. Wed-Fri L & D. www.londonshellco.com. Sheldon Square, W2 6EP. T: 07818-666 005. D4. Station: Paddington.
Neptune
THE GRAND DUCHESS © NIC CRILLY-HARGRAVE
This Grade II-listed grand dining room features high ceilings, columns and elaborate plasterwork. For a special occasion, opt for the tiered seafood platter and oysters. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Dreamboat
DINING
The London Shell Co’s cruising restaurant has a new sister, permanently moored next to it on the Grand Union Canal in Paddington. With skylights and port holes, The Grand Duchess brims with natural light, with a casual, spacious feel thanks to some counter seating. Like the original, it specialises in seafood, such as skate wing with cockles and samphire. Familiar dishes come with a twist – the beer-battered lobster with ‘chip shop’ curry sauce is excellent. The boat has 40 seats, with more seating on the canalside pavement. Groups of six to 13 can book the Captain’s Table at the bow of the boat. www.londonshellco.com
Poppie’s Classic fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s memorabilia, offering table service and takeaways. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW (and branch). T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Sea Shell This sustainable seafood restaurant, popular with celebrities, serves fish and chips. It has an aquarium at the back. ££. Daily L & D. www.sea shellrestaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.
An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef. 42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836
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DINING
FRENCH Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Exquisite food, attentive service and a setting to dress up for from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.
Aubaine Cosmopolitan bistro with all-day dining, on dishes such as moules marinière with frites. It also has pavement seating. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. G5. Station: South Kensington.
Blanchette Cosy, rustic bistro with brick walls, antiques and plants. Graze on cheese, charcuterie, fish and meat dishes at a counter or at tables on the pavement. ££. Daily L & D. www.blanchette soho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR (and branch). T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Bel Canto A flamboyant, fun evening out where waiters (music students) perform opera, while you dine on dishes such as pan-fried beef fillet. £££. Wed-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.
Brasserie Joël This brasserie serves classics such as French onion soup, tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.
Bombay Palace
Masala Zone
Going strong since the 1970s. Start with chaat – dumplings topped with chutney and yoghurt – followed by Goan fish curry or tandoori chicken. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.bombay-palace.co.uk. 50 Connaught St, W2 2AA. T: 020-7723 8855. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Vibrant restaurant serving chaat, street food, thalis and regional curries from throughout India including a good vegetarian selection (below). ££. Daily L & D. www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D8. Station: Oxford Circus.
Chutney Mary
Tamarind
Enjoy a gourmet tour of India, with traditional dishes served in a modern style. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Try one of the tasting menus in these recently refurbished surroundings. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord
Veeraswamy
This North Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, is renowned for its thalis. It also has a chai and chaat menu. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylord london.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 0207580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Michelin-starred restaurant with an opulent interior and signature dishes such as Patiala lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The gold rush
REVIEW
If you want a glittering night out, the pan-Indian restaurant Masala Zone is a good start. We visited the newly renovated Soho branch, with a big golden bowl filled with candles and orange petals and an interior boasting mandala-style murals that shimmer thanks to light from golden lampshades. The restaurant is known for its Indian street food, thalis and regional dishes. We began with smoky masala-grilled squid and red chilli chicken with deep-fried ginger from Chennai, followed by Hyderabadi lamb and green mango curry and nilgiri vegetable korma. Our gluten-free vegan option was made using a recipe from the hills of South India. Finish with kulfi (ice cream) and rasmalai – milk patties in a creamy saffron sauce – washed down with a cardamom Martini.
Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie with high ceilings and marble columns. You’ll go for the fish stew and end up staying for the cabaret at Live at Zedel. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Céleste Michelin-starred hotel dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with a seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Clos Maggiore An exquisite dining room shrouded in flowers, with an excellent wine list and dishes such as truffle pappardella and smoked burrata. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2E 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open, theatrical kitchen and serves more than 30 grilled dishes and special biryanis with exquisite flavours. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Lowndes St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge. Michelin-quality Indian, with a tasting menu and street food. It also has a cocktail lounge. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
XXX
Benares
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INTERNATIONAL
ENJOY THE THALI AT
Bbar South African-inspired restaurant and bar – try the biltong and rib-eye steak. It has a terrace and live music (Thur-Sat). ££. Daily L & D. www.bbar london.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
REAL INDIAN FOOD
The Cavendish Choose smoked burrata, black pudding Scotch egg and truffle oil flatbread in the formal dining room or the relaxed spot downstairs. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. D6. Station: Baker Street.
The Terrace This hotel restaurant above Charing Cross Station has a varied menu, including salads and Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.ambahotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Embankment.
ITALIAN Ask Italian This informal restaurant serves pizza, pasta and desserts and has pavement seating. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.
Cicchetti Lively, all-day dining with regional dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and branches). T: 020-7494 9435. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
Verdi Italian Kitchen Enjoy stone-baked pizzas and afternoon tea in this Victorian music hall. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE Benihana Watch chefs grill dishes and throw ingredients in the air at your table at this lively venue. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Sakagura Informal, izakaya-style Japanese ’pub’ with small plates of authentic dishes that are perfect for sharing. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH
MASALA ZONE © KAREN THOMAS
Momo Mayfair Dine on mezze, couscous and tagines under Moroccan lanterns. Following a renovation, there is now a larger terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi, with dishes to share. Downstairs has communal tables while upstairs is more formal. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopirestaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
London’s hidden café Café in the Crypt
Breakfast Lunch Afternoon Tea Pre-Theatre Dinner Underneath St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square www.smitf.org
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DINING
Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise and dine on British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun L with jazz. www.bateauxlondon.com. Departs from Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
DID YOU KNOW? Rules was opened in 1798 by Thomas Rule and was originally an oyster bar
The London Showboat Enjoy lunch, afternoon tea and dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 0207740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
R.S. Hispaniola Moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British cuisine. Try the seared salmon with lobster mash. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in Debenhams store and watch chefs in the open kitchen. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mango Tree This smart Thai restaurant serves dishes such as barbecue pork and coconut milk soup. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Thai Pot This casual spot offers a huge menu with good-value dishes such as stir-fried beef, fish cakes and sticky rice. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thai pot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
SPANISH El Pirata This two-story restaurant and bar in Mayfair has served tapas for 25 years, including suckling pig, octopus and ham croquettes. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Ibérica Start with cheese and charcuterie, move on to paella or tapas, then end with churros in this restaurant with velvet chairs and a terrace. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
Moro
This restaurant has a weekly-changing menu of Moorish dishes, such as charcoal-grilled monkfish and wood-roasted chicken. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. C9. Station: Farringdon.
VEGETARIAN & VEGAN The Gate Smart venue serving miso-glazed aubergine, Sunday roasts and vegan wine. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.the gaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Mildreds Informal Soho institution with hearty dishes such as chargrilled artichokes on crostini and chocolate hazelnut truffle pudding. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN. T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Tibits Varied, vegetarian buffet with hot dishes, salads and desserts, paid for according to plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA (and branches). T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Woodlands A huge range of Indian dishes on the menu, from filled dosas (pancakes) to North Indian curries. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant. co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS. T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
RULES COURTESY OF RULES
RIVERSIDE
NATURALLY DELICIOUS Top quality ingredients demand the simplest of cooking. That’s why we don’t mess with our great steaks, including USDA Prime fillet & tenderloin, and fresh fish. All we do is grill them to perfection on our Josper Grill. We treat our salads and sides with just the same respect, as many are influenced by fresh produce grown on our rooftop garden. Lunch Mon-Fri 12.00pm - 2.30pm Dinner Mon-Sun 6.00pm - 10.30pm
www.caxtongrill.co.uk Caxton Grill, 2 Caxton Street, London SW1H OQW 020 7227 7777
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A longstanding favourite in Mayfair, El Pirata, celebrates its 25th anniversary this year! Loyal locals and visitors love its authentic Spanish tapas menu, with favourites such as chorizo, fiery padron peppers, Jamon Iberico, and myriad types of seafood dishes such as Mediterranean prawns and calamari. It even offers a set tapas menu to make your choices easier. The ambiance here is truly magical, a mixture of Mayfair elegance with a cozy, friendly feel, plus superb service. There’s also an impressive selection of Spanish wines on the menu.
‘A Spanish gem’ – Zagat ‘with surprisingly good prices’ – Harden’s Mon – Fri: 12.00pm – 11.30pm Saturday: 6.00pm – 11.30pm 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair W1J 7AQ 020 7491 3810 | www.elpirata.co.uk
LONDON’S ONLY CLOSE-UP MAGIC BAR
A unique & magical experience awaits in the heart of Piccadilly. Turn back the clocks to the mystical era of the 19th century with close-up magic, historic décor and enchanting cocktails. Experience renowned magicians from the world famous Magic Circle as they perform wonders right in front of your very eyes. MASKELYNEANDCOOKE #MASKELYNEANDCOOKE
www.maskelyneandcooke.co.uk
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The Lighterman
The Lighterman
W
hen it comes to waterfront drinking, the River Thames gets all the glory, but the capital’s canals are a peaceful alternative for a drink after dusk. Named after Victorian barge workers, The Lighterman is by the Regent’s Canal behind King’s Cross Station. The threestorey venue has glass walls, so the interior brims with natural light. Sit on the first-floor balcony, a leafy deck that overlooks the fountains in Granary Square, or the terrace that backs on to the canal, which has views of houseboats. Order bar snacks such as grilled English asparagus with red pepper dressing, goat’s cheese croquettes with smoked tomato chutney, and crispy squid with chilli and lime. Summery drinks on offer include a fruity Summer Cup, Hugo Spritz – made with elderflower liqueur, mint and Prosecco – and Sweet Pea, which is jazzed up with sugar snap pea syrup. The bar serves seven draught beers and two cask beers, but its menu has nine pages
of wine from Britain, Europe and the New World. It also offers Champagne, biodynamic wine and orange wine, which is a bold, barely processed drink made from macerating (soaking) white grapes in their skins (www.thelighterman.co.uk). Further along the canal is The Narrowboat, a spruced-up pub near Angel with wooden floors, exposed brick and original fireplaces. Its floor-to-ceiling sliding doors open on to a balcony above the canal. Its extension overlooks the water, too. Order charcuterie, gin-cured salmon, truffle chips or smoked mackerel pâté, which is served with artisanal bread on a rustic board. The snacks pair well with keg, cask, craft and draught beers or a Bloody Mary. If you like fruity wine, try the Australian La La Land Pinot Noir, which tastes of strawberries, or the Whispering Angel rosé from France. You can also order dessert wine and port (www.thenarrowboatpub.com). Further east, Shane’s on Canalside is sandwiched between the River Lea and
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. The dog-friendly venue has fairy lights at night, making it a romantic spot. Come here for whites and reds available by the glass, carafe or bottle, or an English Garden in Bombay, which tastes of apple, lime and elderflower (www.shanesoncanalside.com).
SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE LIGHTERMAN
‘Enjoy a drink after dusk beside the canal’
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NIGHTLIFE TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub in a pretty location is a real step back in time. It is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative, boho types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. Excellent Champagne and wine by the glass. Lunch menu Mon-Fri. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The George Inn This tucked-away, historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away. Try your hand at billiards. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food. www.theguinea. co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.
GONG BAR COURTESY OF GONG BAR
The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this atmospheric pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. It has old fireplaces, worn rugs and exposed brick walls. It is closed at weekends. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.
Waxy O’Connor’s
Cartizze Bar
This popular Irish bar has four bars split over six levels. It has pub food, regular live music and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 0207287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
A timeless destination for Bellinis and cocktails. It has an Art Deco interior and oysters on the menu. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Waxy’s Little Sister
City Garden Bar
This smaller sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s serves traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This impressive venue, beside the roof terrace of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Dukes Bar
This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666 and has vaults that are even older. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. There are wines from unusual destinations including Uruguay, with bottles from just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Back Room Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this fun bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls, dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Burlock Rum is the spirit of choice in this relaxed, Cuban-style bar. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
DID YOU KNOW? GONG Bar, located on level 52 of The Shard, is the highest hotel bar in Western Europe
An outstanding bar, renowned for its superior Martinis, oozes old-world charm. www.dukes hotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
Fitz’s This bar is as classic as it gets – think velvet shellshaped sofas and wooden panelling decorated with paintings. Great for a date. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Freedom This long-standing gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
GONG Bar On level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of London’s highest Champagne bars, ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Jack Solomons Club Ring a bell in a kiosk in Soho and you’ll be granted access to this underground bar/club that’s inspired by a boxer. www.jacksolomons.com. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
L’escale Wine Bar Sample a range of wines from around the world in this intimate venue. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Mews Cocktail Bar Leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar, which is home to exquisite wines and fresh fruit cocktails. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 88-89 www.wheretraveler.com 81
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NIGHTLIFE Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. The cocktails are amazing. Please check the website for programme. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving upscale cocktails and bar bites including dim sum. Reservations recommended. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live jazz and blues music most nights. www.oriole bar.com. Smithfield Market, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Scarfes Bar This elegant hotel bar is named after the satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
St Pancras Champagne Bar Order bubbly and oysters at Europe’s longest Champagne bar, which is on the Paris Eurostar concourse. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Social 24 Smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant with an Art Deco interior and Prohibitioninspired cocktails. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Trader Vic’s This tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. Try a Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
‘‘
Queen of clubs
Mirror, mirror, on the wall, who is the fairest of them all? In this case it’s Opium London, a slick new nightclub in Soho. Dark and sexy, it features a gold mirrored ceiling and mirrored walls, while pyramid lighting installations, backlit bars and illuminated stairs make it glow violet. Lasers and LED and strobe lights pierce the shadows on the dancefloor, which features dancers dressed in lights and throwing fire. Make a night of it and come for sushi in the restaurant and a bottle served with sparklers. With space for 500, the London branch is the fourth in the chain’s collection, joining Barcelona, Madrid and Marbella. Like the Spanish clubs, it attracts celebrities such as the rapper Nicki Minaj and DJs who play dance, hip-hop and house. 9 Rupert St, W1D 6DG. T: 020-3687 2277. www.opium-london.com
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. It also hosts live music, such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Sportsman Casino
Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and Julie Andrews made American roulette. Enjoy a poker her solo debut at lounge and sports bar, too. the Hippodrome www.thesportsmancasino.com. Casino in 1947 The Vault Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020The whisky shop and bar Milroy’s has 3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch. tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind a bookcase, is its hidden bar. www.thevault soho.co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club
The Zetter Townhouse Enjoy Tony Conigliaro’s groundbreaking cocktails in a hotel lounge with eccentric decor. www.the zettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
REVIEW
A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. The food is great, too. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga A crazy club with a boat on the dancefloor. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, plus regular late-night events. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square.
Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
OPIUM LONDON © WILLIAM BESSE PHOTOGRAPHY
Floor-to-ceiling windows mean wherever you sit you’ll enjoy 360-degree views of the Tower of London, The Shard, ‘Walkie-Talkie’ and the ‘Gherkin’ from this bar, especially if you sit outside on the roof terraces. Everything’s designed with Instagram in mind, from neon signs and injectable doughnuts to cocktails that come with stories. DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel London. 7 Pepys St, EC3N 4AF. T: 020-7709 1043. www.savagegarden. co.uk. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
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Savage Garden
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T H E M O S T FA M O U S G E N T L E M E N ’ S C LU B A N D R E S TA U R A N T I N T H E W O R L D DI S CRE T I O N
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QUA L I T Y
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S ERV I CE
For Reservations and Enquiries
020 724 0 55 3 4 w w w. s t r i n g f e l l o w s . c o . u k Club open
Monday to Saturday 9.00 pm - 4.30 am or later 16 -1 9 U p p e r St . M a r t i n’s L a n e , L o n d o n WC 2 H 9 E F
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WELLNESS
Cliveden House The Gainsborough Bath Spa
‘The venue overlooks a quiet stretch of the Thames’
HOME AND AWAY
I
f it’s good enough for Meghan Markle, it’s good enough for us. When it came to her last night before getting married, Cliveden House was her venue of choice. Located near Windsor Castle, it oozes luxury. The Cliveden Signature Spa Day (from £190) includes a massage, lunch, access to the spa and the 376-acre National Trust estate. The hotel overlooks a quiet stretch of the Thames and offers boat cruises that include an afternoon tea, a picnic and Champagne. If you want to stay the night, book a room that’s fit for royalty: the Sutherland Suite has a bed that Queen Victoria once slept in. Children are welcome, too, and there’s a food menu dedicated to them and a maze to explore (www.clivedenhouse.co.uk). If you are looking for a trusted brand, visit ESPA at Lucknam Park on the outskirts of the Cotswolds. Taking a holistic approach,
there is a Personalised Dosha Ritual and Uplifting Marma Ritual. Relaxing isn’t just for adults, as the Little Miss menu offers facials, manicures and pedicures for kids (www.lucknampark.co.uk). This spa is ideal for those who love to keep fit – enjoy the outdoor gym, tennis courts and football pitch. Packages include a Twilight Spa and Dine (which includes dinner in The Brasserie) and a Saddle and Spa Day (which includes horse riding). Home to 35 horses of all sizes, it’s perfect for beginners to give riding a go, especially as this is a 500-acre estate. The Cookery School holds classes on how to cook Michelin-starred dishes, too. The Gainsborough Bath Spa is located in the centre of Bath, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Famous for its hot springs, this makes for a great cultural trip outside the capital. Boasting natural thermal water, it has baths
in which you’re encouraged to bathe (www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk). Body therapies range from the Ginger Renewal, which includes a massage with ginger oil, to the Magnesium Remineraliser, which aims to balance sleep and circulation. Great for couples, there is a treatment room for two and under-16s are not permitted in the spa. The Bespoke Couple’s Surrender includes a side-by-side massage. Round off your trip with dinner at Dan Moon at The Gainsborough Restaurant. The venue, with three AA Rosettes, boasts a tasting menu with dishes ranging from smoked fillet of beef to roast Creedy Carver duck (www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk).
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Wellness Editor
LUCKNAM PARK © HANNAH FREELAND PHOTOGRAPHY; OTHER IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES
Lucknam Park
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WELLNESS
SPAS
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel
This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
Bamford Haybarn Spa
The Spa at Dolphin Square
Aveda Institute
First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage in your hotel room, apartment or the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07906-029577.
Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, this spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens. Signature treatments include the warm bamboo massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for bridal and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials and massages for men and women. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch. This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
07879 697478
Late appointments available
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper
es Clefs d’Or Concierges Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments. The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
by qualified female masseuse.
Ushvani
obody knows London like Mandarin Oriental
AVENA MASSAGE
A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
Hershesons
At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area
They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us
where
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Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie
ytoeverything www.lesclefsdorgb.org The Refinery
Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a lesson. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU (and Harrods branch). T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
@lesclefsdorgb lesclefsdorgb
Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for women. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
@lesclefsdorgb lesclefsdorgb
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 88-89 www.wheretraveler.com 85 WL 57X124 CON FILLER 2018.indd 2 WL AUG SPAS.indd 85
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TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night
Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Central, Jubilee, Northern (via Embankment), Piccadilly and Victoria lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card. You can make unlimited bus and tram journeys for free within one hour of first touching in. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/buses.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour services at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway (DLR) Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.
Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north, central and south-east UK. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. Visit www.nationalrail.co.uk St Pancras or call T: 0345-748 4950. Eurostar uses International. Visit www.eurostar.com. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).
Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/access and www.openbritain.net.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire cabs or minicabs, which you must book. We advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Congestion and Emissions Charges There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). This area is also the Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ); cars must meet emissions standards or pay a further daily charge. T: 0343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com.
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ANTONY LYNCH COURTESY OF HILTON LONDON KENSINGTON; CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY BOTANICAL GARDENS © HOWARD RIC; ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT © ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; PORTOBELLO
ESSENTIALS
Ask the
CONCIERGE
Cambridge University Botanical Gardens
Antony Lynch
ANTONY LYNCH COURTESY OF HILTON LONDON KENSINGTON; CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY BOTANICAL GARDENS © HOWARD RIC; ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT © ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET AND TUBE ROUNDEL © ISTOCK; PRINCESS DIANA MEMORIAL PARK © THE ROYAL PARKS; GALVIN AT WINDOWS © GALVIN AT WINDOWS; KEEPER FOR A DAY © ZSL LONDON ZOO
Head concierge at Hilton London Kensington What is the strangest request you have had?
What’s your dream day in London?
A guest once wanted to buy a British bulldog puppy to take on the plane back to the States the next morning. Needless to say, it wasn’t an option, so instead my team and I connected them with The Bulldog Club of Northern California.
Have breakfast in Borough Market, followed by a traditional shave and a stroll along the Bermondsey Beer mile. Wander along the river to Waterloo Station and take the train to Twickenham Stadium to watch a game of rugby.
What should families do?
What’s great beyond zone 1?
Princess Diana Memorial Park in Kensington Gardens is a great spot for young kids – it has a sensory trail, teepees, a pirate ship and sculptures among trees and plants. Teenagers can visit The O2, which has cool restaurants and a mall, and they can climb over the dome with Up at The O2.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park is home to the London Stadium, an Olympic-sized swimming pool and cycle, hockey and tennis centres. You can ascend ArcelorMittal Orbit, a sculpture with a viewing platform, then whizz down its slide.
The Orbit
Portobello Road Market Galvin at Windows
Share a hidden gem What should repeat visitors do? Head to Greenwich via the river and explore its market, the Royal Observatory, the National Maritime Museum and the Cutty Sark. You can also tour the Meantime Brewing Company.
Be a keeper for the day at ZSL London Zoo.
Any romantic ideas?
Share a quintessentially English experience Have a day trip to Cambridge to explore its university, old quarter and botanical gardens. A punt on the river can’t be missed and you can also take a cycle tour.
Sip Champagne in Galvin at Windows, a bar with 360-degree views on the 28th floor of London Hilton on Park Lane. It’s spectacular in the evening to see the city lights while pampering your partner.
Why is your hotel special? Our location: we’re close to Notting Hill, Portobello Road Market and Westfield London.
Car hire
On foot
Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion and Emissions Charges’ (p. 86). Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendall cars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 020-7591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.
It’s often quicker to get around London on foot. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am) adult £19.80, child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60, children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, via the app or online.
Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). Buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Keeper for a day at ZSL London Zoo
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours and the first 30 mins of each journey are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub that offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Victoria. D4. coaches
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. There is also a digital printing and copy service. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines
The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line • Victoria line: Across the entire line • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5 • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault www.wheretraveler.com 87
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MAMMA MIA!
PERFECT DAY Björn Ulvaeus Producer Björn Ulvaeus was a member of the Swedish music group ABBA. He is behind the new immersive experience MAMMA MIA! The Party
What are your favourite buildings? It’s not very original, but it would have to be Big Ben. It’s such a strong symbol of London for me. I’ve seen it and heard it in films and the news my whole life. Which museums or galleries do you love? The National Gallery always works for me.
What is your favourite green space? I often run around Hyde Park, marvelling at the fact that London has such a huge green lung. How do you prefer to travel? By water taxi on the Thames. Where’s your favourite place to have a drink – and who is your ideal drinking partner? I’d have a drink in the library at the Covent Garden Hotel with the Harry Potter author JK Rowling. What would be your perfect evening’s entertainment? I’d go to the theatre and watch a good play or musical with my wife Lena. We would probably go straight back to our hotel afterwards talking about what we’ve seen.
MAMMA MIA! The Party
Hyde Park
Covent Garden
Where do you like to eat? I love to eat at Scott’s in Mayfair. I usually order Dover sole meunière on the bone – it’s definitely my favourite dish there. Do you have a favourite hotel when you’re in London? The Covent Garden Hotel. I practically lived there when we did MAMMA MIA! The Musical 20 years ago and I stay there whenever I can today.
Big Ben Xxxxx xxxxx
What would you say to get someone to see the show? We’re living in extremely troubling times and going to The Party is a really good way to get away from everything for a couple of hours (four hours,
actually). You also avoid all the stress of having to rush through a pre-musical dinner and queuing up to get into a bar afterwards. It’s all wrapped up into one at The Party. What makes London stand out from the rest of the world? London is probably the most cosmopolitan city in the world, but it’s managed to keep its soul, nevertheless. If you asked me to name the capital of the world, it would be London. Sometimes when I go for a walk I ask myself what it is that I love about London, but I never seem to reach a conclusion. But that’s OK, though. I’m content just loving it! MAMMA MIA! The Party is at The O2 (from 29 Aug). Book show and dinner tickets at www.mammamiatheparty.com.
MAMMA MIA! © BRINKHOFF & MÖGENBURG; BJÖRN ULVAEUS © IVAN DA SILVA; COVENT GARDEN, HYDE PARK AND BIG BEN; MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY © DEWYNTERS
Where do you like to shop? I’d go to Covent Garden. I’m not a Sloane Street man, really. One of the favourite items I bought was my first pair of platform boots. Sadly I don’t have them any more, but the memory of how happy I was when I got them still remains. I bought them in the only shop in the world that stocked them at the time.
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