WhereTraveler London — November 2019 by Where London

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

NOVEMBER 2019

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

Long-running musicals

From the o to oldesldest pub t play

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First Savile Row tailor 

Hard Rock’s longest-serving waitress 

It’s your once in a lifetime chance to see Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TUTANKHAMUN: TREASURES OF THE GOLDEN PHARAOH PRESENTED BY VIKING CRUISES

Oldest hotel in the capital

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COVER © IMG, LABORATORIOROSSO, VITERBO. THIS PAGE: THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA © JOHAN PERSSON; LORD MAYOR’S SHOW © C TOTMAN; BROWN’S HOTEL AFTERNOON TEA © VICTORIA METAXAS

CONTENTS NOVEMBER

FEATURES

LISTINGS

6 WHERE NOW Our guide to this month’s biggest events, from Harry Potter in concert to fireworks displays across the capital.

20 SIGHTSEEING Discover the oldest sights, starting with the City’s Roman remains.

64 NIGHTLIFE If walls could talk! We raise a pint to London’s timeless pubs, each packed with history.

34 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Visit the country’s first public art gallery, Dulwich Picture Gallery.

68 SPAS & SALONS Did you know that London is home to the oldest barbershop in the world? Find out where the likes of Winston Churchill and Frank Sinatra went for a shave.

10 GOLDEN YEARS A look at London’s must-see exhibition, Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh. 14 HERE TO STAY Discover the magic inside some of the capital’s oldest and grandest hotels, including Claridge’s and Brown’s. 18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Take your pick from these advent calendars filled with everything from chocolates to beauty products. 74 MY PERFECT DAY Hard Rock Cafe’s longest-serving waitress shares her favourite places in the city.

40 ENTERTAINMENT What is the world’s longest-running musical? Discover the West End, home to the most successful shows ever. 50 SHOPPING Get yourself measured up at the first-ever tailor on Savile Row, Henry Poole & Co. 54 DINING Find out where you can dine in the same restaurant as Charles Dickens, Charlie Chaplin and Clark Gable.

70 ESSENTIALS An experienced hotel concierge shares his strangest requests, as well as tips on how you can make the most of your time here. 72 MAP A useful map of central London. See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels and is considered to be the ‘concierges’ bible’

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M A G A Z I N E

IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

EDITORIAL

MVP I OPERATIONS

CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson MANAGING EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Kathryn Conway, Emma Levine, Fabian Pountney GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton SENIOR DESIGNER Suzette Scoble DESIGNER Ella-Louisa Romain PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt

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Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901

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Vol. No. 45 Issue No.11 ISSN 0951 323X

MEET THE TEAM

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PUBLISHED IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CHRIS JOHNSON I’m fascinated by London’s rivers. The Tyburn still runs under Buckingham Palace, while if you listen near the drains in Ray Street, you can hear the River Fleet.

Officially endorsed by The Society of the Golden Keys of GB and the Commonwealth

NEIL SIMPSON I love an historic pub crawl around the City. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, the Cittie of Yorke, the Magpie & Stump: it’s amazing to socialise in places that should be museums.

SARAH RICHES I love London’s traditional architecture, from Alexandra Palace in Wood Green to St Paul’s Cathedral and Hampstead’s gothic mansions, which I can only dream of living in.

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Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. Where® Magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation.

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LEFT: Big Ben and Westminster Bridge ABOVE: Smithfield meat market

LEFT: The River Thames and Tower Bridge ABOVE: Mansion House and Queen Victoria Street

WELCOME

ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Managing Editor

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

You’re lucky – you have chosen to visit a city that is packed with history, from Roman ruins to old pubs. I have always wanted to run a special edition that celebrates Timeless London, so I’m excited to share this issue with you. Find out about the oldest barbershop in the world (p. 68), the first tailor on Savile Row (p. 51) and the longest-running West End musical (p. 40). Hotels are magical places – they’re where you can unwind, step away from your normal life and maybe get transported back in time. We stepped into one such place – Claridge’s – which is one of London’s oldest hotels. Even if you are not checking in, you can enjoy its world-famous restaurant and bar (p. 14). London is becoming the go-to place for blockbuster exhibitions. The one that started it all, however, would have been Tutankhamun at The British Museum. Now, nearly 50 years later, it’s back, but at the Saatchi Gallery (p. 10). As ever, there are lots of exciting events to look forward to. I’m looking forward to Secret Cinema’s Stranger Things (p. 44), Bonfire Night (p. 6) and taking my pick of the advent calendars (p. 18). Let me know what you are doing on social media. Have an amazing trip!

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Have a blast! Watch a fireworks display, celebrate Thanksgiving and enter a Winter Wonderland this November

1-5 FIREWORKS has some strange traditions, NOV London perhaps none more so than Bonfire Night (5 Nov). The evening marks the failed attempt by Guy Fawkes to kill King James I and blow up the Houses of Parliament. To celebrate, effigies of Fawkes are burnt and fireworks displays take place across the capital, from Alexandra Palace (above; 1-2 Nov) to Battersea Park (2 Nov).

THE CHEMICAL

30 NOV BROTHERS AT THE O2

THE LONDON

29 NOV1 DEC ILLUSTRATION FAIR

For souvenirs with a difference, head to this annual event in the OXO Tower. Founded by two schoolfriends, the aim is to capture the creativity of the capital. You can meet the artists and there is also a bar, which means itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great chance to buy art in a relaxed setting. www.thelondonillustrationfair.co.uk

If you love to rave, look no further than this: dance duo The Chemical Brothers are coming to The O2. Following their slot at Glastonbury, this is their biggest headline show. Expect hits from their new album, No Geography, plus club Geography classics accompanied by state-of-the-art visuals. www.theo2.co.uk

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

THANKSGIVING EVENTS 28 As the city celebrates Thanksgiving, it’s a great time to learn more NOV about our special relationship with America. Smith & Wollensky is serving turkey, pumpkin pie and Oreo cheesecake, and Christopher’s has rib-eye steak and chocolate pecan pie. The Nordic Bar is having an NFL Thanksgiving party – watch as the Detroit Lions take on the Chicago Bears. Finally, St Paul’s Cathedral holds its annual service, which is open to all and is attended by the US Ambassador.

1-3 HARRY POTTER CONCERT NOV IN If you know your Hufflepuff from your Gryffindor, then you’ll love Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire in concert at the Royal Albert Hall. While the film is being screened, Patrick Doyle’s score is played live by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. The experience makes for a magical evening, as you watch the movie on 40 screens in one of the capital’s most iconic venues. www.royalalberthall.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

Ice skating, a giant Ferris wheel and circus acts – it can only be Hyde Park Winter Wonderland. The family-friendly attraction is free to enter and includes the world’s tallest transportable observation wheel and the Magical Ice Kingdom, which is set in sub-zero temperatures and features striking sculptures made out of ice. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com

2 NOV

REGENT STREET MOTOR SHOW

Start your engines! If you love cars, whether vintage or futuristic ones, then head to Regent Street. To tie in with the street celebrating its 200th anniversary, the area is closed to traffic but filled with classic cars. Hop in, see characters in period costumes and get your picture taken, then learn more about models, such as zero-emission electric ones and low-carbon drive trains – this is a fun family day out. www. regent streetmotor show.com

NOVEMBER 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Enjoy Stephen Mangan as The Man in the White Suit in this classic comedy See another ending for Romeo’s unlucky lover in & Juliet at the Shaftesbury Theatre Head to Trafalgar Square for the colourful celebrations for Diwali, Festival of Lights Discover the wonders of Tutankhamun at this new exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery Climb up Primrose Hill to gaze out at the evening fireworks for Bonfire Night Try to bag a coveted ticket for the awardwinning hip-hop musical, Hamilton See the city from the water with a speedy ride on a Thames Clippers boat Get in the festive spirit at The Royal Ballet’s performance of The Sleeping Beauty Cheer on England women’s football team as they play Germany at Wembley Stadium Watch the gripping new drama Touching the Void about a horrific climbing accident Admire exquisite fine art and furnishings inside the state rooms at Windsor Castle Take a fresh look at school photos at Tate Britain’s new exhibition by Steve McQueen Grab your umbrella and bird seed to watch the new production Mary Poppins Immerse yourself in the Victorian world of Jeff Wayne’s album, The War of the Worlds Tour Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium, one of London’s most famous football grounds Go inside the Houses of Parliament to see where all the political action happens Catch the legendary American jazz musician Herbie Hancock at Barbican Hall Book an illuminating lecture about mercy at St Martin-in-the-Fields church Discover King George IV’s art collection at The Queen’s Gallery’s new exhibition Get up close to Hogwarts Castle dusted with snow, at Warner Bros. Studio Tour Festive favourite The Snowman makes its seasonal return to Sadler’s Wells Enjoy music and fireworks at Classical Spectacular at the Royal Albert Hall Get your skates on at the Tower of London and whizz round its dramatic ice rink Enjoy a free recital on the grand organ at the landmark Westminster Abbey Browse the Bavarian market and squeal on the rides at Winter Wonderland See road vehicles from bygone decades at the V&A’s new exhibition, Cars Learn more about the great master Leonardo da Vinci, at The National Gallery Celebrate Thanksgiving with a special service at St Paul’s Cathedral Watch past stars such as Martina Hingis in Champions Tennis at the Royal Albert Hall Spread a little happiness with the new musical Amélie, adapted from the film

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

PREVIOUS PAGES: FIREWORKS © LLOYD WINTERS; ICE RINK © SANDRA SORENSEN; PEOPLE AT FIREWORKS © ISTOCK; ALICE TAMS’ MURAL COURTESY OF THE LONDON ILLUSTRATION FAIR; THE CHEMICAL BROTHERS COURTESY OF THE O2; HARRY POTTER IMAGE COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL; ROYAL ALBERT HALL © PAUL SANDERS; THANKSGIVING © GRAHAM LACDAO/ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. THIS PAGE: WINTER WONDERLAND © IMG/WINTER WONDERLAND; VINTAGE CAR COURTESY OF REGENT STREET MOTOR SHOW

HYDE PARK

ALL NOV WINTER WONDERLAND

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★★★★★ SUNDAY TIMES

‘CONJURES THE IMPOSSIBLE! MAGICAL DOESN’T EVEN BEGIN TO DESCRIBE IT.’ ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY

THE STORY CONTINUES ON STAGE NOW BOOKING UNTIL AUGUST 2020 PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com

#CursedChild LDN

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TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter

™

WBEI

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WHERE NOW | TUTANKHAMUN

Wishing Cup

Gilded wooden shrine

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GOLDEN Gold Wesekh collar

A new exhibition celebrating the centenary of the discovery of the tomb of the world’s most famous Pharaoh will unleash Tutmania on the capital, says Kathryn Conway

PROMOTION

The opening of the tomb

On 26 November, 1922, Howard Carter, who famously worked alongside the 5th Earl who funded their excavations from 1908 in Thebes and later in the Valley of the Kings, peered by the flicker of candlelight through a hole in a door and into a tomb. Later, Carter would record in his diary what would become one of the most legendary exchanges in archaeological history: ‘There was naturally short suspense for those present who could not see, when Lord Carnarvon said to me, “Can you see anything?” I replied to him: “Yes, wonderful things.”’ Carter and Carnarvon’s discovery of the intact tomb of Tutankhamun and the extraordinary treasures that lay within became an instant media sensation, sparking Tutmania across the globe. Egyptian motifs sprang up in fashion, jewellery, furniture and architecture, most notably here in the capital with the Carreras Cigarette Factory in Camden (now office space) and the Carlton Cinema in Islington (now known as Gracepoint). Even the US president Herbert Hoover got in on the act by naming his dog King Tut. This obsession with ancient Egypt was undoubtedly heightened by the so-called curse of the Pharaohs and the rather untimely

death of Lord Carnarvon in Cairo just five months after the remarkable discovery. ‘My grandfather was reticent about the story really, even though he was something of a raconteur. He realised what his father had achieved was amazing but thought it brought bad luck so he was not one to talk about it,’ reveals George Herbert, the eighth Earl of Carnarvon and the current Lord Carnarvon. ‘But, to be honest, like in all sorts of things, I think there are people out there who experience bad luck and there are others who go on to live pretty healthy lives for quite some time, just like Howard Carter. And we have to remember that because of motor car accidents, as a result of his love of pioneer motoring, my great grandfather was not the fittest of people.’ Herbert also reveals that, despite being present at the opening of the tomb, Carnarvon’s daughter Evelyn didn’t see many of the key items until 1972, when she became one of the 1.7 million visitors, many of whom queued for hours, to view them at an exhibition at The British Museum. This blockbuster of a show proved that our fascination with the most famous of Pharaohs was as steadfast as ever, a fact that is sure to play out when more than 150 treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb, 60 of which are travelling outside Egypt for the first time, go on display at the Saatchi Gallery this month, courtesy of Viking Cruises.

Gilded wooden jackal

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wonders of egypt

While Tutankhamun’s iconic funerary mask remains in Egypt, having been deemed too fragile to travel some years ago, Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh provides a final chance to see a glittering array of extraordinary pieces here in London before they are permanently housed in the new Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza, due to open next year. ‘When we got the idea to celebrate 100 years of the discovery of Tutankhamun, we put together 150 objects from the tomb in order to reflect the real function of the tomb of a king,’ says curator Tarek El Awady, curator of the exhibition. ‘Visitors will learn how the ancient Egyptians prepared their dead king for travel through the underworld to reach eternity with the sun god.’ The objects, from the intricately decorated bejewelled gold coffinette that held the viscera of Tutankhamun to the beautiful alabaster Wishing Cup that attests to Tutankhamun seeing ‘wonderful things’ in the afterlife, form a breathtaking showcase that displays the craftsmanship and artistry this ancient civilisation bestowed on its dead. Had it not been for Carter and Carnarvon’s

persistence, this might have remained buried in the Egyptian sand forever. ‘I’m sure my great grandfather must have been absolutely ecstatic at the discovery because it was a final pay-off for all the years of work and dust and the heat,’ says Herbert. ‘I’m incredibly proud of his legacy. I know you could argue that the tomb may have since been uncovered by various different means, but, equally, it may never have been discovered. So Carter and Carnarvon’s work brought these extraordinary treasures to the view of current mankind, which of course has been of enormous advantage to Egypt in terms of tourism and of massive scholarly relevance for our understanding of the history of mankind and the ascent of man too.’ Given London’s love of blockbuster cultural events, the golden Pharaoh, the boy king who has become more famous in death than he was during his reign more than 3,000 years ago, will once again dazzle us all. Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh presented by Viking Cruises opens at the Saatchi Gallery on 2 November. For tickets, please visit: www.tutankhamun-london.com

IMAGES IMAGESCOURTESY COURTESYOF OFIMG, IMG,LABORATORIOROSSO, LABORATORIOROSSO,VITERBO VITERBO

WHERE WHERE NOW NOW || TUTANKHAMUN TUTANKHAMUN

Events fit for a king If the treasures weren’t already a huge draw, visitors with corporate bookings have an opportunity to make their experience that little bit more golden. Private morning tours before the exhibition opens and a select number of catered evening events are worth clearing a window in the diary for. Enjoy an exclusive evening with the eighth Earl of Carnarvon, who will expand on the stories told here and present insights into his great grandfather’s passion for Egyptology. For those up for a spot of amateur sleuthing, Awakening the Pharaoh offers an opportunity to join a forensic investigation led by ex-Scotland Yard detectives to uncover what may have caused Tutankhamun’s early death. Gold canopic coffinette of Tutankhamun

Funeral bed

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

andriuXphoto.com

Preferred charity partner

Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

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WHERE NOW | HOTELS Afternoon tea at Claridge’s

The Lobby at Claridge’s

The cricket match at Claridge’s in the 1930s

Cary Grant at Claridge’s

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Claridge’s

Glamour, stories and old-world charm. Sarah Riches uncovers the history of one of London’s oldest hotels

I ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF MAYBOURNE HOTEL GROUP

f walls could talk, we’d know why a cricket match was played in Claridge’s ballroom in the 1930s, or why an engineer drove a tractor down its steps in the 1940s. As it stands, we must draw our own conclusions based on black and white photos sourced by the hotel’s archive curator, who has scoured eBay and art fairs to find items that reveal a glimpse into the hotel’s past.

FROM ROYALTY TO CELEBRITIES Claridge’s story began in 1812, when William Mivart opened Mivart’s on Brook Street. Hallways were built wide enough to accommodate two crinolines so women could sashay down the corridors side by side. When Mivart retired in the 1850s, William Claridge and his wife Mary took over and renamed it. In 1860, Empress Eugénie of France stayed – suite 126 was named after her this year.

The visit established a tradition of royal guests: Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the empress and, during World War II, exiled royals including the Queen of the Netherlands, the Kings of Greece and Norway and the Presidents of Poland and Czechoslovakia stayed. Legend has it that when a diplomat called to speak to the king, the receptionist said: ‘Certainly sir, but which one?’ King Peter II of Yugoslavia and his wife Princess Alexandra also stayed, in suite 212, in 1945. Concierge Martin Ballard says: ‘Just before the princess gave birth to Crown Prince Alexander, the British prime minister Winston Churchill declared the suite Yugoslavian territory for the day, placing a clump of earth under the bed to ensure the prince was born on Yugoslavian soil. Now known as the Prince Alexander suite, the family stay here and the Prince celebrated his 60th birthday here.’

The Queen’s Coronation celebration was also held at Claridge’s in 1953, while in 1980 King Hassan II of Morocco stayed, but he couldn’t sleep in the bed he’d brought with him – so he swapped it with his assistant’s handmade Claridge’s bed. The next day the King bought 24 mattresses to take home. The hotel also attracts celebrities – and their pets. Mahatma Gandhi stayed with his goat Nirmala, Winston Churchill brought his miniature poodles, Audrey Hepburn slept with her Yorkshire terrier while doormen walked novelist Nancy Mitford’s French bulldogs.

THE WAR YEARS Despite welcoming guests during the world wars, the hotel wasn’t immune to rationing. Ballard says: ‘Bread was rationed in World War I – guests were offered polenta and rice cakes instead – and during World War II guests endured a week without water. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 15

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WHERE NOW | HOTELS The manager Hugh Wontner also coped with manpower shortages and fewer foreign visitors. He adhered to the government’s restrictions, imposing a five-shilling limit on meals or eight shillings and six pence for oysters. Guests could not consume more than three courses in one meal or order food after midnight.’

BUILDING AN ICON

The Queen and Queen Regent of Holland outside Brown’s Hotel in 1895 Palm Court at The Ritz

BROWN’S HOTEL Hot on the heels of Mivart’s, Brown’s Hotel opened in 1837 – just as Queen Victoria took the throne. Owner John Brown opened the hotel at number 23; numbers 22, 24 and 21 were added later. Like Claridge’s, the hotel has an in-house historian. History buffs may know the hotel was the site of the first telephone call; in 1876 inventor Alexander Bell called the government to tell them about his invention. Other notable guests included Theodore Roosevelt (before he became President of the United States), Mark Twain and Agatha Christie, who based her book At Bertram’s Hotel on the venue. Enjoy afternoon tea in the wood-panelled English Tea Room, a British meal in Charlie’s or a drink in Donovan Bar. www.roccofortehotels.com

THE LANGHAM After The Langham opened in 1865, it attracted royals including Louis Napoleon III while he was exiled from France. Charles Dickens and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle were also regulars. The hotel’s West Wing was bombed in World War II. After it recovered, the BBC bought the hotel and used parts of it as offices; BBC presenters are still regular visitors. Visit for afternoon tea in the beautiful The Fumoir

Palm Court, take a cooking class with the revered chef Michel Roux Jr or book a treatment at Chuan Body+Soul, an opulent spa with a 16m swimming pool. www.langhamhotels.com

THE RITZ While The Ritz was a relative newbie when the Swiss hotelier César Ritz opened it in 1906, it is among the world’s most famous hotels. Notable guests include the Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova, Charlie Chaplin and Winston Churchill, who discussed World War II operations with Dwight Eisenhower and Charles de Gaulle in the Marie Antoinette suite. Head concierge Michael de Cozar stars in the concierge desk scene in the 1999 romantic comedy Notting Hill. In 2002, the Queen hosted the Prince of Wales’s 54th birthday party in The Ritz Restaurant; that same year, the hotel received a Royal Warrant. Go for tea in Palm Court or stay the night and visit its private casino, The Ritz Club. www.theritzlondon.com

THE FUMOIR COURTESY OF MAYBOURNE HOTEL GROUP; BROWN’S IMAGE COURTESY OF BROWN’S HOTEL; PALM COURT COURTESY OF THE RITZ

While the hotel has London’s oldest working manned lift – installed in 1896 – it has been renovated over the years, including the addition of an Art Deco wing in 1929. Note the monochrome floor tiles in the lobby. The hotel remains open as it undergoes its latest refurbishment. Martin says: ‘Claridge’s has survived for so long because it keeps up with the times and because it never changes – its success is an element of both. We want it to be around for another 150 years so we have to move forward, which is why we’re renovating. ‘We are due to finish in 2020. We have added phone chargers next to beds and each room has Wi-Fi. We’ve also added yoga mats and Dyson hairdryers to rooms and staff have new uniforms that are styled on pictures from 1950s archives.’ Until then, visitors can listen to a pianist on a grand piano during afternoon tea. It is served in the Reading Room, which has mirrored doors and hand-blown glass by Dale Chihuly hanging from the glass roof. Foodies can learn how to carve, prepare seafood and make Sunday roast or afternoon tea, while groups can book a chef to prepare a meal. Ask the chef to prepare one of Claridge’s historic recipes such as chicken or game pie, which have been on the menu for 30 years. Stay for a drink in Claridge’s Bar, which displays Richard Young’s photos of Princess Diana, the Queen, actor Jack Nicholson and the singer Grace Jones. Or sip a cocktail in The Fumoir, a wood-panelled bar lit by Lalique crystal lamps reflected in a mirror. If you have £1,920 to spare, stay in a suite and admire views from the 24-hour gym or relax in the Map Room. But whichever bedroom you stay in, you’re guaranteed to get your beauty sleep. Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7629 8860. www.claridges.co.uk

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‘Practically perfect in every way’

DAILY TELEGRAPH

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now at the Prince edward theatre MaryPoppins.com A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

25 Days of Beauty Advent Calendar The House of Elemis, £165, 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX

A Chocolate Feast Calendar Prestat, £19.50, 14 Princes Arcade, St James’s, SW1Y 6DS

Gifts

As the countdown to Christmas begins, these calendars prove that kids needn’t have all the fun

Jo Loves Advent Calendar Jo Loves, £300, 42 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9NZ

Atelier Cologne Advent Calendar Selfridges, £250, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

L’Occitane Luxury Advent Calendar L’Occitane, £89, 74-76 Regent St, W1B 5RL

Acqua di Parma Christmas Advent Calendar Harrods, £325, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE STOCKISTS

ADVENT CALENDARS

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YOU CAN BE IN THE ROOM WHERE IT HAPPENS new tickets now on sale

TICKETS AT £20, £37.50, £57.50, £75, £100 PLUS A LIMITED NUMBER OF PREMIUM SEATS & DAILY LOTTERY

HAMILTONMUSICAL.COM | VICTORIA PALACE THEATRE A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

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SIGHTSEEING I

n order to surround yourself with London’s most ancient sights, there’s only one place to go: the City of London. Established in AD50, it’s the oldest part of today’s sprawling metropolis. Founded by the Romans as Londinium, you can still see the scarred remains of its boundary wall along Noble Street and London Wall, both just north of St Paul’s station. Visit the City Information Centre in St Paul’s Churchyard to collect a Roman London leaflet while you’re there. The rest of the City’s Roman Empire days lie beneath the pavements, but there are ways to venture down and roll back 2,000 years of London’s layers. Billingsgate Roman House & Baths public tours take place every Saturday (to 30 Nov; p. 30), while the Roman Amphitheatre, which was discovered just

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths

Lord Mayor’s Show

31 years ago and is free to enter, lies beneath Guildhall Art Gallery (p. 38). Elsewhere, a reconstructed Roman temple dedicated to the god Mithras can be seen at the London Mithraeum Bloomberg Space (also free; p. 27), alongside 600 artefacts. The Romans were also keen bridge builders but their wooden gangways between the City and Southwark are long gone. London Bridge is now the City of London’s longestestablished Thames crossing: a stone bridge was first built here between 1176 and 1209. In 1831 it was replaced and eventually sold, to be reconstructed stone-by-stone in Arizona. What you see today was built in the 1970s. You can enter a 17th-century plague pit at The London Bridge Experience – as long as you don’t mind being scared silly by actors (p. 27).

O SIGHTRIC S

Soon after the first London Bridge was completed came another milestone: the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215. This document confirmed that City of London citizens had the right to elect their own mayor. You can see a copy at Guildhall Art Gallery (to 12 Dec). The City of London’s mayor is now known as the Lord Mayor, whose annual election is celebrated at the Lord Mayor’s Show (9 Nov). This daytime spectacle features a procession between Mansion House and Westminster. It stars the world’s oldest working ceremonial vehicle, the 1757 State Coach, making this a stunning way to see London’s long history come to life (www.lordmayorsshow.london).

NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor

LORD MAYOR’S SHOW © C TOTMAN; BILLINGSGATE ROMAN HOUSE & BATHS © JAMIE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY

‘ This spectacle stars the 1757 State Coach’

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SIGHTSEEING

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Board the birthday boat

Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors. Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-4pm. Adult £10.50; child £6.30. www.english-heritage. org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower offers 20-mile views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelor mittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 0203166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Children’s zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Daily 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.95; child £7.95. www.battersea parkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

For a family-friendly, uniquely London activity this month, head to the Cutty Sark Birthday Weekend (23-24 Nov; p. 24). It’s a big one: the world’s most famous tea clipper is 150 years old. The fastest ship of her time, the Cutty Sark is a symbol of Britain’s fierce empirical ambition during the Victorian era. The boat made eight voyages to China and was designed to hold 10,000 Chinese tea crates in her hull – no wonder Brits are obsessed with tea. On board, you can tour each deck with an audio guide, while children will love the entertaining elements such as a digital sailing game. The birthday programme includes arts and crafts activities, face painting and interactions with costumed actors – drop in between 10am and 5pm to join in the celebrations.

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SIGHTSEEING

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73

Over 100 Experiences to choose from

LONDON DAY TOURS

OUT OF LONDON DAY TOURS

+44 (0)20 7630 2039

OPEN TOP TOURS

WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON

ATTRACTION TICKETS

www.goldentours.com

CUTTY SARK IMAGES © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, GREENWICH, LONDON

Sightseeing Tours

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SIGHTSEEING The British Library

Changing the Guard

The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as a programme of temporary exhibitions. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). From 10am; check for dates; free. www.household division.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the British monarch has 775 rooms and is normally closed to the public. www.rct.uk/buckingham palace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this area was a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Tue-Sat 11am-5.30pm; approx three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £12; Brothers’ tour from £18. www.the charterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

DID YOU KNOW? Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all of the holes that the aardvarks dig during the night

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, especially medicinal varieties including tropical specimens in glasshouses. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm; closed 18-21 & 25 Nov. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Discover the secrets of the Underground Experience disused station tours and an immersive exhibition that delves deeper into a mysterious subterranean world

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Chiswick House & Gardens This manor house is now closed for winter, but the gardens and café are still open. Gardens daily 7am-dusk. House entry adult £7.80; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark Climb aboard the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past (p. 22). Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £7.50. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

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This historic townhouse takes visitors back in time. From 24 Nov: Annual Christmas Installation. The house is dressed for Yuletide festivities. Silent Night tour 25-29 Nov 5pm-9pm; daytime tour 24 Nov noon-4pm, 25 Nov noon-2pm. Tickets £5-£17.50. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace. 1 & 3 Nov 10am-5pm; from 4 Nov Sun only 10am4pm. Adult £15.40; child £9.20. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Go Ape London There are several of these treetop obstacle courses located in the London area, including Battersea Park and Alexandra Palace. Check online for times and prices. www.goape. co.uk. Various locations. T: 01603-895 500. One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £6.25. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

AARDVARK © ISTOCK

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The Royal Collection returns to Brighton ROYAL PAVILION • BRIGHTON BN1 1EE Images: Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2019

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SIGHTSEEING Handel & Hendrix in London

Houses of Parliament

The former homes of the composer George Frideric Handel and Jimi Hendrix. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Check online for events, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. E6. Station: Bond Street.

See the art inside this working parliament building. Tours Sat. Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £26.50, young adult £22, child £11.50; childfriendly family guided tour adult £19.50, child free. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

The Jewel Tower This tower was built around 1365 to house King Edward III’s treasures. To 3 Nov daily 10am-5pm; from 4 Nov Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.70; child

DID YOU KNOW? Leeds Castle was a makeshift hospital during World War II and is home to the world’s only dog collar museum, with exhibits spanning five centuries

£3.40. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tours at 1.30pm & 3pm (subject to availability). Adult £7.50; child free. www.cityof london.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 0207332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge officially reside with George, Charlotte and Louis. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £21.50; child £10.70. www.hrp. org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Daily 10am-5pm; from 4 Nov daily 10am4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this huge botanical research centre has Victorian glasshouses. From 20 Nov: Christmas at Kew. Enjoy the gardens at night, illuminated by light installations; booking essential. Daily 10am-4.15pm; from 20 Nov 10am-3.30pm. Adult £18; child £6, charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

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Jumping juniper

The City district is known as the Square Mile, due to the compact area it covers between Chancery Lane and Aldgate. Within these relatively small borders, an estimated one in four buildings was making gin during the 1700s. These days there is just one working distillery in the Square Mile: the City of London Distillery. Take a tour of this small-but-mighty space, which produces gin sold all over the world. As well as giving you the opportunity to inspect the distillery’s three copper pot stills (named Elizabeth, Jennifer and Clarissa), the 75-minute tour includes a talk on gin with an expert, a top-notch g&t and four more samples. It’s a great way to taste a hidden slice of London life. www.cityoflondondistillery.com

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SIGHTSEEING KidZania London Kids can experience TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and an aviation school. Check online for times. Advance: adult from £16; child from £19. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site (p. 20). Tickets also include the London Tombs. Check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Madame Tussauds

The O2

Home of life-sized wax figures of famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Huge venue for entertainment, incorporating the ICON designer-brand shopping outlet. www.the o2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The Monument This beautiful stone column stands in the heart of the City. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower Bridge available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; Painted Hall adult £12; child free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

The London Dungeon This attraction whisks you back to the capital’s perilous past. See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life via costumed characters and special effects. Joint tickets available with Sea Life London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo.

THE ROYAL MEWS BUCKINGHA M PALACE

Coca-Cola London Eye

London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this hub showcases a Roman temple that was built here 2,000 years ago (p. 20). Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Free entry. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.

ZSL London Zoo

Travel in style this autumn From the Gold State Coach to the State Stables, discover more about Buckingham Palace’s historic carriages and The Queen’s horses that pull them.

Mellish

Visitors can immerse themselves in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Daily from 10am; check online for seasonal closing times and prices. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. B6. Station: Camden Town.

Photogr apher: Sam

IMAGE COURTESY OF CITY OF LONDON DISTILLERY

This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Joint tickets available with Sea Life London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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SIGHTSEEING 18 Stafford Terrace

The Royal Mews

Sea Life London

This offers an insight into the life of former resident Edward Linley Sambourne. Tours Wed & Sun 11am12.15pm; drop-in Wed, Sat & Sun 2pm-5.30pm. Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide. MonSat 10am-4pm. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives free. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

The Royal Observatory

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels. Check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster.

Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Stand astride the Prime Meridian, where east meets west. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £16; child £8. Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Daily 10am-10pm. Adult from £27.20; child from £21.25. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Spencer House This aristocratic palace was built in 1766 by Earl Spencer, an ancestor of Princess Diana. Sun 10.30am-5.30pm; Mon pre-booked groups only. Adult £15; child £12. www.spencerhouse.co.uk. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. E7. Station: Green Park.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre, live classical music (some free). 3 & 18 Nov: The Quality of Mercy. This free lecture series explores the theme of mercy in drama (3 Nov) and poetry (18 Nov); 7pm-8.30pm, booking essential. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.st martin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Tower Bridge This breathtaking bridge, completed in 1894, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House. From 16 Nov: Ice Rink. One of London’s most enchanting festive rinks is placed upon the Tower’s moat; adult from £15; child £10.50. Mon-Fri 11am-9pm; Sat-Sun

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON

St Paul’s Cathedral

For great views of the city, jump on the Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 27)

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SIGHTSEEING

Movie magic

How could a Harry Potter fan possibly improve upon the dreamy experience of seeing the to-scale Hogwarts model at the film set? Easy: just add snow. Hogwarts in the Snow (from 16 Nov) is the Warner Bros. Studio Tour’s Christmas showstopper (below). The Great Hall is redecorated for the Yule Ball (a key part in The Goblet of Fire) and the Gryffindor common room set is lavished with a festive makeover. The Hogwarts model, meanwhile, receives a dusting of snow, making this amazingly detailed creation even more magical.

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10am-9pm. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £27.50; child £13.10. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2

HOGWARTS © DAN WONG PHOTOGRAPHY/WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON

Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. Check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. From 16 Nov: Hogwarts in the Snow. Check for times (above). Adult £45; child £37. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

WINDSOR CASTLE

WINDSOR

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm; closed 2 Nov; 20 & 27 Nov 1pm-4.30pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only adult £23; child £10. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries adult £28; child £10. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £13; child £7.90. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

ROYAL WEDDING

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TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Free, themed tours around Farringdon and Holborn; most do not need booking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Various ticket packages are available, from one to three days. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Classic Ticket (one day) adult £39; child £29. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours

Capital Taxi Tours

Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Green Park or Trafalgar Square. Departs from the Big Bus bus stop at Green Park or Trafalgar Square. Daily 10am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the Square Mile lies a history that’s survived 2,000 years of construction (p. 20). Sat 11am; noon and 1pm. Adult £10.19; child £8.06; booking is essential. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

City of London Guides Walks Themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield. Prices free-£12.50. www.cityoflondon guides.com. Departure points vary.

The Classic Tour Hop aboard a restored 1960s Routemaster double-decker bus and see London’s landmarks. Check for times and prices. www.theclassictour.com. Departs from Northumberland Ave, off Trafalgar Square (bus stop outside The Grand hotel). T: 0844-318 7655. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Evan Evans The oldest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on tours since 1930. Check for times and prices. www.evanevans tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from the capital to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Guidelines to Britain Book a private sightseeing tour, which offers hotel pick-up, Blue Badge Guides-certified London experts. www.guidelinestobritain.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-8299 3000.

Jack the Ripper Tour

VISIT THE HOME OF

An intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ISTOCK; GOLDEN BOY STATUE © ISTOCK

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

Visit the Royal Albert Hall (p. 31)

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SIGHTSEEING

DID YOU KNOW? The 62m-high Monument stands 62m from the spot where the 1666 Great Fire of London started – and a smaller statue, the Golden Boy of Pye Corner, stands at the exact point where the fire was put out

Kia Oval Tour Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. Check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Sat 5pm. Tickets £24; booking strongly advised. www.londonliterarypub crawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Original London Sightseeing Walk

Royal Albert Hall Tours

The 90-minute Changing the Guard walk departs daily at 10am from the Original London Visitor Centre. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm; no tours 8, 9 & 30 Nov. Adult £14.50; child £7.50. www.royalalbert hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years of experience, these open-top guided bus tours allow you to hop-on and hop-off. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £34, child £16; 48-hour adult £44, child £21. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House Tours One of the world’s leading opera venues and home to the Royal Ballet company. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium. Covent Garden Legends and Landmarks Tour selected days between 11am and 4.15pm; £10-£15. www.roh.org. uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPECTACULAR SAVINGS AT LONDON’S FAVOURITE OUTLET CENTRE

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team for no parking worries. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Harry Potter. Check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Neverland Children’s Tours Fully supervised activities for children aged eight and over. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

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CAPITAL TAXI TOURS Family friendly sightseeing tours from the comfort of an iconic London Black Taxi

London Sightseeing Tours C

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Themed Tours

Harry Potter, Downton Abbey, The Beatles, Doctor Who, Countryside Tours, Stonehenge and so much more!

CAPITAL TAXI TOURS

T: 07970 911223

capitaltaxitours.co.uk

See London by Night Tour

City Cruises

Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. There are regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

Shakespeare’s Globe

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area

This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the city’s only thatched roof. Check for times. Exhibition and theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Steam Dreams Rail Co

They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

Via a network of more than 100 stations around the UK, take a memorable trip on board Steam Dreams’ fleet of restored steam trains – which includes the Flying Scotsman. www.steamdreams.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 01483-209 888.

where

Tottenham Hotspur Stadium Tour This 90-minute experience takes visitors behind the scenes of this new stadium. Check for times. Adult £30; child £15; under-fives free. www.tottenham hotspur.com/tours. 782 High Rd, N17 0BX. T: 0203929 1882. Off map. Station: Seven Sisters.

Wembley Stadium Tours

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-8.30pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye. com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, SE1 7PB. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; under-fives travel free. Adult standard single journeys from £4.80; adult Oyster/app/online single journeys from £4.40. www.thamesclippers. com. Departure points vary along the River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services

Go behind the scenes at this football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. From 10am; check for dates. Adult £19; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com. Olympic Way, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3.30pm and Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11.20am-4.30pm. Please check for prices. www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

RIVER TRIPS

Thamesjet

Circular Cruise Westminster Join a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes. Daily 11am-3pm. Adult single £10.75, return £16; child single £7, return £10.75. www.circularcruise. london. Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY; DIWALI © CAROLINE TEO

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CMY

Light entertainment

Diwali on Trafalgar Square (3 Nov) is a celebration of the Festival of Lights, a festival observed by Hindus, Sikhs, Jains and Buddhists. The afternoon is packed with cultural acts, singers, dancers and opportunities for the crowds to get involved in the action. Expect a line-up of food and drink traders, underlining London’s world-leading reputation for Indian cuisine. The event is presented by the Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan. – Fabian Pountney www.diwaliinlondon.com

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SIGHTSEEING

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Hyde Park Winter Wonderland From 21 Nov: One of the UK’s biggest winter festivals, held every winter season, with a Bavarian market, fairground and huge ice rink. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Marble Arch.

See By Night

OUT OF TOWN Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland. Daily 10am-6pm; from 4 Nov 10am-4.30pm. Adult £23.70; child £11.90. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle Fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. Please check for times and prices. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. Daily 9.30am4.30pm. Adult £15; child £8.70. www.rct.uk/palace ofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20

Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £21 Child - £12

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £21.10; child £12.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle, with glorious state rooms. To 3 Nov: The Big Draw: Leonardo 500 500. Take part in The Big Draw Festival 2019 with Leonardo da Vincithemed drawing activities in the castle; 11am-4pm, free. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am4.15pm. Adult £22.50; child £13. www.rct.uk/ windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Our fa vourit e O

Above and below: Dulwich Picture Gallery

LD GALLE RY

‘Shining a light on south London’

id you know that London is home to the world’s first purpose-built public art gallery? Dulwich Picture Gallery (p. 38) opened in 1811 and is still going strong. Situated near southeast London’s Dulwich Village, the gallery has a collection of Baroque masterpieces that Sir Francis Bourgeois collected and subsequently entrusted for public display. Bourgeois was a painter who collected valuable artworks at the request of the King of Poland, Stanislaus II Augustus. When Stanislaus abdicated in 1795, however, the paintings remained with Bourgeois until he died. The old Dulwich College building became their home and in 1811, work began on the art gallery you see today. The architect behind the building was Sir John Soane, who most famously worked on the Bank of England from 1788. His designs paid respect to the existing Jacobean architecture of the old Dulwich College building, but over the centuries various alterations and extensions have shaped Dulwich Picture Gallery.

Those additions included the gallery’s picturesque gardens, which are right next to Dulwich Park; with its boating lake, bicycle hire and wildlife conservation area, the gallery’s surroundings offer lots to explore. Inside, the gallery’s major attractions include its haul of Old Masters, dating from the Tudor era to the 1800s, ticking off names such as Gainsborough, Rubens and Murillo. There are two pieces by the Italian painter Canaletto, including his 1754 depiction of the River Thames’ Old Walton Bridge, while you’ll also find Rembrandt‘s Girl at a Window. The legendary Dutch painter is the subject of Dulwich Picture Gallery’s current exhibition, Rembrandt’s Light (to 2 Feb 2020). It displays 35 of his paintings, etchings and drawings, which have been loaned from the Louvre in Paris and Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. Through works such as Philemon and Baucis, Christ and St Mary Magdalen at the Tomb and A Woman

in Bed, this showcase underlines Rembrandt’s skilful use of light in his artworks. Situated beyond central London’s bustling, well-trodden tourism districts, Dulwich Picture Gallery is easily reached by taking a train from either London Victoria to West Dulwich, or from London Bridge to North Dulwich, followed by a short walk from either station. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk

NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s long history. Museum and self-guided tours Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; check for match-related closures. Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for dates and times). Self-guided: adult £25; child £16. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20. Museum: adult £10; child £7; free with stadium tour tickets. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. See books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs, plus modern gold bars. There are fun activities for children, too. Its latest exhibition, 325 Years, 325 Objects, dives into the bank’s archive to celebrate its 325th birthday – expect art, design, archaeology and examples of forgery. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland. co.uk/museum. Bartholomew Lane, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-3461 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Body Worlds See exhibits using the latest plastination technology that demonstrates how human bodies operate. Daily 10am-7pm; last Fri every month 10am-10pm. Advance (at least 24 hours) adult £22.50, child £16; on the day adult £25, child £18. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

MUSEUM INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR SHOTS COURTESY OF DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY; HAND SHELL © DORA MAAR

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities from the Roman Empire, ancient Egypt, medieval Europe, ancient Iran and India, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. There are regular talks and evening events. From 21 Nov: Troy: Myth and Reality. Explore the artefacts and hear the stories that suggest Troy was in fact a real place. See ancient sculptures and exquisite vase paintings (p. 38). Sat-Thur 10am5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

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Artist and muse

Fans of the late French artist Dora Maar will be thrilled to visit the UK's largest retrospective of her work at Tate Modern (from 20 Nov; p. 39). Born Henriette Theodora Markovitch in Paris in 1907, she used photographic montages to create surreal scenes. From a graceful human hand emerging from inside a sea shell to caress a sandy beach, to a nicely dressed woman with a shiny star instead of a head, Maar’s world is a strange and dreamy place to be. During her relationship with Picasso, he made her the subject of his famous Weeping Woman painting and she recorded his Guernica progress with her camera. Dora Maar is an opportunity to see her photography and paintings, alongside the work of those artists who shared her influences at the time.

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MUSEUMS

The Design Museum

Leighton House Museum

One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. Designer Maker User is a free, permanent display of the museum’s contemporary collection. To 23 Feb: Moving to Mars. Exploring humanity’s next frontier, with a to-scale Mars home. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum dedicated to his life and work. Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with intricate tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; 3pm tour every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

Household Cavalry Museum

London Transport Museum

Guided one-hour tours of the dressing room, players’ tunnel and press room, plus a museum with memorabilia and trophies. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Self-guided tour and museum adult £24, child £15; museum only adult £12, child £10; monthly ex-players tour with past stars of the game from £80. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 020-7386 9373. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers and their horses work in the original 18th-century stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8.50; child £6.50. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards Parade, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Churchill War Rooms

Imperial War Museum

Located in the Grade II-listed former Flower Market, this museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Elsewhere, the Digging Deeper exhibition charts the history of tunnel-digging across the capital. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £18; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Chelsea FC Stadium Tour & Museum

Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. There's more about his life and legacy in the interactive Churchill Museum. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations. The museum’s current Culture Under Attack season uses exhibitions, live music and special events to underline the ways in which war can attack and destroy culture. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. F9. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Museum of Freemasonry English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at this museum and library, where you can discover the history of the Freemasons at home and abroad. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.museumfreemasonry.org.uk. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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The king of collectors

The new exhibition at The Queen’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace owes its lavish pieces to a king who seemed happiest when pursuing the finer things in life. George IV: Art & Spectacle (from 15 Nov; p. 39) displays the celebrated French and Dutch art that he pursued during the 18th and 19th centuries, including Rembrandt’s The Shipbuilder and his Wife (right), which was the most expensive painting that George ever purchased. Elsewhere, look out for the golden Shield of Achilles, an impressive dining piece that was part of George’s coronation banquet at the Houses of Parliament. George IV never travelled further than Europe once the throne was his in 1870 but, thanks to his appetite for fine possessions, the world’s most beautiful objects came to him.

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Museum of London

The Old Operating Theatre

The Postal Museum

The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s history to the present day. From 15 Nov: The Clash: London Calling. This free display celebrates the legendary band and their album. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Situated in the roof of a Baroque church on the old St Thomas’ Hospital site, this room was originally used to store herbs for medicine. An operating theatre was added in 1822, where surgery without anaesthesia took place in front of an audience. Reached via a narrow spiral staircase, it’s now a museum dedicated to Victorian surgery. Mon 2pm5pm; Tue-Fri & bank hols 10.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun noon-4pm. Adult £6.50; child £3.50. www.old operatingtheatre.com. 9a St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7188 2679. E10. Station: London Bridge.

This museum tells the story of the ‘first social network’, with thousands of fascinating exhibits exploring postal history, including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels which was used to transport post until 2003. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £17; child £10. www.postal museum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Ten galleries include Sailortown, with its 19th-century alleyways, as well as Sugar & Slavery. The exhibition, Slavery, Culture & Collecting, looks at the links between European culture and the slave trade. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. West India Quay, No1 Warehouse, Hertsmere Rd, E14 4AL. T: 0207001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.

National Maritime Museum Get up close to the objects that made history – from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art – at the world’s largest maritime museum. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum See astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons. To 5 Jan: Museum of the Moon. This touring piece of art has arrived in London. Six metres in diameter, its surface is decorated with NASA-sourced imagery of the moon. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

REINVENTING THE WHEEL The Victoria and Albert Museum’s latest exhibition pays due respect to the automobile. While modern thinking is increasingly stacked against cars – especially in a city as polluted and congested as London – there’s no denying that they have transformed our world beyond recognition. Cars: Accelerating the Modern World (from 23 Nov; p. 38) includes the 1888 Patent-Motorwagen No 3 by Karl Benz, as well as insights into how our electric future will look.

Queen’s House Located in the heart of Greenwich, this beautiful royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones and is a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. These days, you can enjoy its spectacular art, architecture and royal history. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet and the chance to climb inside selected aircrafts. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. There’s a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films. Exhibitions include Top Secret: From Ciphers to Cyber Security, examining security technology, Security while Driverless: Who is in Control? looks at machines that can drive themselves. Daily 10am-6pm; adult-only Lates programme last Wed of every month, 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum. org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

REMBRANDT’S THE SHIPBUILDER AND HIS WIFE © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019; HISPANO-SUIZA CHASSIS PHOTO BY MICHAEL FURMAN © THE MULLIN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM

Museum of London Docklands

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V&A South Kensington Until 16 February 2020 BOOK NOW vam.ac.uk/maryquant Members go free

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sir John Soane’s Museum

Victoria and Albert Museum

This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837 and has been untouched since. It houses his collection, which he amassed from around the world, plus his own architectural drawings (view by appointment) and Hogarth’s artworks. To 5 Jan: Hogarth: Place and Progress. See the paintings of this 17th-century Londoner. Wed-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics from around the world (p. 36). To 16 Feb: Mary Quant. With her Chelsea shop, Bazaar, Quant supercharged UK youth culture from the 1950s onwards with her progressive fashion creations, including the miniskirt. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

The Vault Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures. Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia from around the world. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tour

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery holds a great collection of Old Masters. To 2 Feb: Rembrandt’s Light. This collection of 35 paintings, etches and drawings demonstrate just how skilfully the Dutch master used light in his works (p. 34). Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £16.50; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery. org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Guildhall Art Gallery

At the venue of the famous Championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to tennis kits worn by champions, screens to watch past greats in action and more. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Museum daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

World Rugby Museum This showcase for global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. Expect more than 38,000 objects, including items from early 20th-century Welsh national teams, the 1924 New Zealand side and the 2003 England team. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Museum adult £12.50, child £7.50; museum and stadium tour adult £25, child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

Believe the legend

The British Museum is diving into the mystifying realm of Troy with its latest big show. Homer’s classic Greek legend may seem like a fantasy (the capture of a beautiful woman triggers a 10-year war; a major city is destroyed thanks to a wooden horse) but that doesn’t necessarily mean that Troy didn’t exist. That’s the premise for Troy: Myth and Reality (from 21 Nov; p. 35), a fascinating exploration into archaeological game-changers such as Heinrich Schliemann. Digging in Turkey during the 1870s, this German businessman and archaeologist uncovered pottery, silver vessels, stone sculptures and bronze weapons that suggest Troy was a real place. Even if you’ve never believed in the tooth fairy or Santa Claus, this haul of ancient artefacts might make you think twice about Greek legends.

See paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces (p. 20). It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, which was discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). To 1 Dec: Architecture of London. A look at the city’s ever-evolving landscape and how it has inspired creatives from the 17th century to today. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Free, 45-minute gallery tours every Tue, Fri & Sat afternoon. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

Hayward Gallery The home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre, with regular, contemporary exhibitions. The pyramid skylights enable a light-filled space. To 26 Jan: Bridget Riley. This British artist is known for her perceptual paintings, including her black-andwhite works from the 1960s and new wall paintings created specifically for Hayward’s galleries. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free; charges for some exhibitions. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 19 Jan: Designed in Cuba: Cold War Graphics. See the posters and magazines of Fidel Castro’s Organisation of Solidarity with the People of Asia, Africa and Latin America. To 31 Dec: Quentin Blake: From the Studio. This ever-changing exhibition is a chance to see what the in-demand illustrator is currently working on. Tue-Sat 10am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5.30pm. Adult £8; child £4. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Regular tours, talks and workshops. From 9 Nov: Leonardo: Experience a Masterpiece. Discover the inner workings of da Vinci’s The Virgin of the Rocks. To 26 Jan: Gauguin Portraits. Charting how this French artist played with the traditions of portraiture. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

TROY AMPHORA © THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM; MARBLE SARCOPHAGUS LID © ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM, UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD

Twinings Museum

GALLERIES

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

DID YOU KNOW? The National Portrait Gallery has the only portrait that William Shakespeare posed for

National Portrait Gallery See works depicting famous British people in paintings, drawings and photographs. From 7 Nov: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2020. Survey the best of contemporary portrait photography from around the world. To 26 Jan: Pre-Raphaelite Sisters. The work of women who have been overshadowed in the retelling of this art period (p. 50). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am9pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. To 9 Feb: Shot in Soho. Profiling this unique, rebellious and exciting square mile of London’s West End, with work by the likes of William Klein, Anders Petersen and Corinne Day. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun & bank hols 11am-6pm. Adult £5 to 5pm; child free; admission free to all from 5pm. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery

Saatchi Gallery

This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. From 15 Nov: George IV: Art & Spectacle. Discover this controversial king and the collection of stellar art that he curated during his lifetime (p. 36). Daily 10am-5.30pm; gallery closed until 14 Nov. Adult £13.50; child £6.70. www.rct.uk/queens gallerylondon. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Victoria.

Contemporary art in a huge Georgian building. From 2 Nov: Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh. It’s been 100 years since the discovery of the ancient king’s tomb and this is your chance to discover more than 150 of its artefacts (p. 10). Daily 10am-6pm. Charges for selected exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 0207811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Academy of Arts

The nation’s leading collection of British art. From 12 Nov: Steve McQueen Year 3. The award-winning film director (12 Years a Slave) shines a spotlight on diversity, by presenting one class photograph from every Year 3 primary-school class in London. To 2 Feb: William Blake. Enter the world of this esteemed English painter, printmaker and poet. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Royal Academy Collection works in all media. From 23 Nov: Eco-Visionaries: Confronting a Planet in a State of Emergency. Explore works being undertaken by architects, artists and designers who are each on a mission to help save the environment. To 3 Dec: Antony Gormley. Monumental installations and sculpture from one of Britain’s most prominent contemporary sculptors. To 26 Jan: Lucian Freud: The Self-portraits. The British artist’s paintings, prints and drawings of himself are displayed together for the first time. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm, check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy. org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 0207300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Royal Society of Sculptors This hub for professional sculptors hosts a regular series of exhibitions on sculpture. Mon-Fri 11am5pm; Sat noon-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 0207373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

Tate Britain

Tate Modern See world-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. From 20 Nov: Dora Maar. Discover the work of this esteemed photographer, who made her name with surrealist works, before moving on to painting later in life (p. 35). To 5 Jan: Olafur Eliasson: In Real Life. Installations about architecture, climate change, energy and migration. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

TATE BRITAIN 11 S EP 2019 – 2 FEB 2020 The Times Evening Standard

WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE PAINTING © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

The Guardian

REBEL R ADIC AL RE VOLU TIONARY

PIMLICO u FREE FOR TAT E M E M B E R S Supported by Tate Patrons and Tate Members Media partner

William Blake ‘Europe’ Plate i: Frontispiece, ‘The Ancient of Days’ 1827 (?) (detail) The Whitworth, The University of Manchester

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ENTERTAINMENT

Our fa LONG vourite -RUNN SHOW ING S

‘No one has written a thriller like Christie’

Les Misérables

A memorial to Agatha Christie in Covent Garden was also commissioned. ‘Christie was interested in people and their motives more than the gruesomeness of their crimes. Her writing is unrivalled – no one has written a thriller like she did.’ Les Misérables (p. 42) is London’s second oldest show. Based on Victor Hugo’s 1862 novel, it follows a prisoner who attempts to turn his life around. After a world premiere in Paris, the musical opened at the Barbican in 1985 and ran in the West End until this July. But you needn’t miss out, as you can attend a concert version at the Gielgud Theatre (to 30 Nov) starring Michael Ball and Alfie Boe, or catch the musical when it reopens next month at the Sondheim (formerly Queen’s) Theatre (from 18 Dec). Alternatively, bag tickets to the gothic drama The Phantom of the Opera (p. 44), about a masked man living in a theatre who becomes obsessed with a beautiful soprano. Phantom’s Josh Piterman says: ‘The musical continues to be so popular because it’s a timeless story – a love triangle fuelled with endless emotion. How can we not fall in love with it? Add to that one of the greatest musical theatre scores ever written and it’s a pretty amazing recipe. We go to the theatre to feel and The Phantom of the Opera allows us to do just that.’

SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor

The Phantom of the Opera The Mousetrap

ALL IMAGES © JOHAN PERSSON

he year 1952 was memorable for the UK: King George died and his daughter was crowned Queen Elizabeth II. It was also the year £8 million was stolen from a Post Office van in central London – and the robbers were never caught. But the robbery wasn’t the country’s only whodunnit, as that year Agatha Christie’s mystery The Mousetrap (p. 44) took to the stage. It began as a radio play, then a short story before coming to the West End stage a month later – it’s since become the world’s longest-running show. Set in the 1950s, it opens with the murder of a woman who had served a sentence for abusing her foster children. The address of a guesthouse was found near her body, leading police to question its guests. Trapped in by snow, with the phone line down, the guests and staff are all uneasy and they all have something to hide. Audiences are asked not to reveal the twist at the end – so I won’t either. Producer Sir Stephen Waley-Cohen recalls: ‘The Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh sat in the dress circle at the 50th anniversary performance in 2002. They met the cast, crew and staff on stage after the show. For the diamond anniversary celebration in 2012, we held a star-studded gala performance for Hugh Bonneville, Julie Walters, Miranda Hart and Tamsin Greig. The proceeds went to Mousetrap Theatre Projects, a charity which facilitates theatre visits for young people.

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ENTERTAINMENT

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES & Juliet From 2 Nov: A musical which asks: what if Juliet’s famous ending was really her beginning? What if she decided to choose her own fate? This show includes songs by Britney Spears, Backstreet Boys and Ellie Goulding. Please check for times. Tickets £22.50-£75. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Amélie the Musical From 29 Nov: Based on the Oscar-nominated film about a kind, shy waitress (below). Check for times. Tickets £19.50-£65. www.theotherpalace. co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. F7. Station: Victoria/St James’s Park.

Big To 2 Nov: Based on the 1980s comedy film starring Tom Hanks, this musical is about a boy who wishes he was all grown up – then has to deal with his wish being granted. It stars former Girls Aloud member Kimberley Walsh and actor and TV host Matthew Kelly.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets from £29.50. www.nederlander.co.uk/dominion-theatre. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This hilarious, controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards, including Best New Musical. Please check for times. Tickets £29.75-£100. www.bookofmormon london.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Come from Away An upbeat, heartwarming musical based on the real-life characters in a tight-knit community on a Canadian island, who rallied round to host 7,000 international passengers in the wake of the US terrorist attacks on September 11. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£108. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Dear Evan Hansen With a Grammy Award and six Tony Awards including Best Musical under its belt, your money is in safe hands – especially as the music is by the people behind The Greatest Showman and Rent. It follows an anxious teenage boy, Evan. Check for times and prices. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Everybody’s Talking about Jamie This feel-good, award-winning musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, northern England and tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. D8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ghost Stories What’s your deepest fear? Phantoms, poltergeists or bumps in the night? It’s time to face them. Mon-Thur & Sat 7.30pm; Fri 7pm & 9.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets from £20. www.theambassadors theatre.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hamilton Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway. It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s founding father, Alexander Hamilton, a poor, orphaned immigrant who was born in the Caribbean. Please check for times, prices and returns. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.

Ian McKellen on Stage A new show by the theatre great. As well as performing Tolkien and Shakespeare, he will chat to the audience and invite some on stage. Check for times. Tickets from £8. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Les Misérables To 30 Nov: Michael Ball, Alfie Boe and Matt Lucas star in this temporary staging of the legendary musical, featuring the show’s well-known songs (p. 40). Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0344482 5138. D8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Check for times. Tickets £23£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Charing Cross.

An enchanting tale

Ro tent, voloria sed omni ius, quis aut ndior aut harunt quos et reperum is too as Amélie the Musical They say Paris is the city of love but this month London rehendelis eicab i

opens at The Other Palace (from 29 Nov; above), following a UK tour and prior to an international one. The story is based on the 2001 French romantic comedy starring Audrey Tautou, which won two Bafta Awards and was nominated for five Oscars. This stage show stars another Audrey, French-Canadian Audrey Brisson (Pinocchio, Pericles) as the lead, a romantic waitress who enjoys helping her customers. Director Michael Fentiman says: ‘I hope London audiences will be enchanted by our little Parisian tale. Amélie is about making connections, the simple acts of kindness that pull people closer, not further apart… In such divisive times, we all need a little piece of Amélie.’

Mamma Mia! The Musical A tribute to the popular hits of Swedish supergroup ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Mary Poppins Following an international tour, this award-winning story based on the 1964 film comes to the West End. The well-known tale about a nanny in London with magical powers is brought alive with special effects. Wed 7pm; Thur-Mon 7.30pm; Thur, Sat-Sun 2.30pm. Check for prices. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

AMÉLIE THE MUSICAL © PAMELA RAITH PHOTOGRAPHY

DID YOU KNOW?

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ENTERTAINMENT Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. The humour caters for both adults and children. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

9 to 5 The Musical Dolly Parton musical about women who seek revenge on their sexist boss, starring Bonnie Langford and Brian Conley. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. www.9to5the musical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Only Fools and Horses: The Musical

Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House (p. 40). Please check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film, is about a failed rock star who becomes a teacher. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina – The Tina Turner Musical Musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become superstar singer Tina Turner. Expect hits including What’s Love Got to Do with It? and The Best. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£159.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Waitress

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Psychic cinema

Don dungarees and a bold print shirt and you’ll fit right in at Secret Cinema’s latest immersive experience, which is based on the Netflix science-fiction series Stranger Things (from 13 Nov; p. 46) and is held in a secret location. For the first time, the team that has a reputation for hosting epic parties inspired by films is creating one based on TV. Set in the 80s, residents in suburban Indiana have their world turned upside down when a laboratory’s secret paranormal experiments create an alternative world, which leads to a boy going missing. Created in collaboration with Netflix, this new experience will feature familiar scenes as well as new storylines, characters and locations. www.secretcinema.org

PLAYS The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks who are desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Groan Ups From the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong, this comedy is about growing up. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Check for prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Jenna is a waitress and expert pie-maker Harry Potter and the Cursed Child who dreams of escaping her small town and In JK Rowling’s new story, rocky marriage. When a baking contest which was specifically written for the offers her a chance at a fresh start, stage, father-of-three Harry now she must find the courage to seize it. works for the Ministry of Magic, Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. but his youngest son grapples Charles Kean’s 1856 Tickets £19.50-£150. www.waitress with the legacy that he never London version of themusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, really wanted. Most tickets are A Midsummer Night’s 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844sold out; check for returns and Dream had 90 sprites 579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross. times. www.harrypottertheplay.com.

DID YOU KNOW?

wearing tutus

Wicked The brilliant and little-known back story of the witches of Oz, with amazing costumes and the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical. co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Lungs To 9 Nov: Claire Foy and Matt Smith star as a couple wrestling with the planet’s biggest dilemmas, in Duncan Macmillan’s comical emotional rollercoaster of a play. It’s suitable for

over-14s. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The Man in the White Suit Stephen Mangan and Sue Johnston (to 23 Nov) star in this comedy about a man who invents a fabric that never gets dirty or wears out. Based on the 1951 Ealing comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £17.50-£90. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

‘Master Harold’ ...and the Boys Set in 1950s-apartheid Port Elizabeth, South Africa, at the St George’s Park Tea Room, employees Sam and Willie practise their steps for the finals of the ballroom dancing championship. Check for times. Tickets £15-£86. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit (p. 40). Check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

My Brilliant Friend From 12 Nov: Based on the novels by Elena Ferrante, this play is a story of love, violence, ambition and self-destruction. Niamh Cusack (TV’s Heartbeat) and Catherine McCormack star. Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

IMAGE COURTESY OF SECRET CINEMA

The Phantom of the Opera

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A comical musical based on the hit British sitcom that ran throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, about a loveable wheeler-dealer scheming how to get rich. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £16.80-£175. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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RAW MUSICAL TRIUMPH.’ ANN TRENEM AN, THE TIMES

★★★★★ D A I LY T E L E G R A P H

★★★★★ METRO

★★★★★ THE SUN

★★★★★ D A I LY E X P R E S S

★★★★★ D A I LY M A I L

THERE IS ONLY ONE

P R E S E N T E D I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

T I N A T U R N ER

THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL NOW BOOKING UNTIL JUNE 2020

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Noises Off This farce follows the cast of a disastrous flop. Meera Syal and Daniel Rigby star. Suitable for over-12s. Check for times and prices. www.garrick theatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

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Moving mountains

When Joe Simpson fell and broke his leg in a storm in the Peruvian Andes, his climbing partner Simon had little choice but to cut the rope that attached them. Left alone at the bottom of a crevice, Joe wasn’t thinking about the book he’d write if he survived, or the Bafta-winning film that it would inspire. But now, 30 years after his enthralling book was published, the first stage version of Touching the Void is coming to the Duke of York’s Theatre (from 9 Nov). Josh Williams (who performed in Romeo and Juliet at Shakespeare’s Globe and Lord of the Flies at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre) plays the lead, while climber Angus Yellowlees plays Simon. Don’t miss it – it’s as gripping as Joe’s hold on that rope.

On Bear Ridge To 23 Nov: Rhys Ifans stars in this play about a family who refuse to leave their village after its borders are redrawn. Check for times and prices. www.royalcourttheatre.com. Royal Court Theatre, Sloane Square, SW1W 8AS. T: 020-7565 5000. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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Stray Dogs From 13 Nov: In 1940s Russia, poet Anna Akhmatova is approached by Stalin, the tyrant responsible for the murder of everyone close to her, who wants a favour. Based on true events, this depicts an extraordinary woman who must choose between her duty to her son, her country, her art and herself. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3.15pm. Tickets £14.50-£18. www.parktheatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

Touching the Void From 9 Nov: Directed by Tom Morris, this play is based on Joe Simpson’s memoir about a climbing expedition that went wrong. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Check for prices. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Translations Hugh and his son Owen return to rural Donegal along with two British Army officers. Their ambition is to create a map of the area, replacing the Gaelic names with English. Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Vassa To 23 Nov: A comedy about a dishonest family. Check for times. Tickets £10-£42.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Witness for the Prosecution Based on novelist Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama and staged in a former courtroom. Check for times. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Woman in Black

AHA AT THE RAH! A-ha are coming to the Royal Albert Hall (RAH). They’ll be playing new tunes and familiar ones, particularly from their 1985 album Hunting High and Low (5 Nov). www.royalalberthall.com

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A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewoman inblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES

where she can do magical things in the wash. Tue-Sun 6.30pm. Tickets £30-£75. www.the vaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience Retro, interactive experience based on a TV show. Participants work in groups to solve mental and physical puzzles against the clock, aiming to build up time for the ultimate challenge in the Dome. Check for times and prices. www.the-crystalmaze.com. 22-32 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EJ. T: 0161-791 0727. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Jeff Wayne’s The War of the Worlds Experience the Martian invasion from HG Wells’ 1898 science-fiction novel which was reinvented as a musical by Jeff Wayne. You’ll be guided by live and virtual actors as you walk, crawl and slide through scenes of Victorian London, while Martians roam outside. Please check for times and prices. www.dotdot.london. Old Metal Exchange, 56 Leadenhall St, EC3A 2BJ. D11. Station: Aldgate.

MAMMA MIA! The Party Actors in costume perform ABBA songs around you, while you dine on Mediterranean dishes in a Greek taverna. Please check for times. Tickets from £151.20. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Red Palace Enjoy dinner and a cabaret inspired by magical folk tales; wear a gothic mask fit for a ball. Check for times and prices. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Á La Dine

Secret Cinema: Stranger Things

Inspired by Aladdin, this is a pantomime for adults with dinner and wine. It’s time to head on down to Widow Twankey’s enchanted launderette,

From 14 Nov: Secret Cinema has a great reputation for hosting spectacular immersive experiences themed around a film (p. 44). Please check for prices. www.secretcinema.org. Various locations.

TOUCHING THE VOID © MICHAEL WHARLEY; A-HA COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL

ENTERTAINMENT

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HHHH

“A GHOST PLAY GUARANTEED TO SEND SHIVERS DOWN YOUR SPINE” NEIL NORMAN, DAILY EXPRESS 2018

CELEBRATING THREE SPINE - TINGLING DECADES OF WEST END THEATRE

SUSAN HILL’S

ADAPTED BY STEPHEN MALLATRATT

thewomaninblack.com FORTUNE THEATRE, COVENT GARDEN www.wheretraveler.com 47

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ENTERTAINMENT The Wolf of Wall Street

Cadogan Hall

To 19 Jan: Dress up and enter the world of Jordan

7 Nov: London Concert Choir. Purcell’s King

Belfort, the real-life stock-market millionaire whose life became a book and a film. Details are revealed by email once you’ve paid. Tickets £59.95. www.immersivewolf.com/event/the-wolf-of-wallstreet. Secret location.

Arthur from 1691 depicted the conflict between King Arthur’s Britons and the Saxon invaders. Tickets £12-£30. 7.30pm. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 29-30 Nov: Budapest Festival Orchestra and Sir András Schiff. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£56. Check for full details. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Albert Hall 21-24 Nov: Classical Spectacular. The UK’s most popular classical show returns to the hall for its 30th anniversary. Songs include Sleeping Beauty Waltz, Rule, Britannia! and Land of Hope and Glory. 3pm & 7.30pm. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

IT’S ATMOSPHERIC

IT’S AN EVENT

IT’S A TREAT TIMES

IT’S A TRIUMPH MAIL ON SUNDAY

DID YOU KNOW? The Mousetrap is the longest-running play in London – it’s been on stage for more than 66 years

St James’s Piccadilly This charming 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals in this landmark church. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Alexandra Palace Theatre 10 Nov: Georgie Fame in Concert. The man

behind numerous albums and number-one hits performs a night of jazz and R ‘n’ B. 7.30pm. Tickets £15.75-£34.75. www.alexandrapalace.com. Alexandra Palace Theatre, Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 020-8365 2121. Off map. Station: Wood Green, then W3 bus.

The Jazz Café This live music venue and club specialises in jazz and funk. 2 Nov: BaBa ZuLa. 3 Nov: Sunday Soul. 5 Nov: Sinkane. 6 Nov: Aaron Taylor. 13 Nov: The Bad Plus. 18 Nov: A Night of Whitney. 21 Nov: Bilal. 22 Nov: Pete Rock. 27-28 Nov: Blly Cobham. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazz cafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Kings Place 9 Nov: Ewan McLennan. 14 Nov: Bella Hardy. Check for times and prices. www.kingsplace.co.uk. Kings Place, 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

The O2 To 22 Nov: Little Mix. 28-29 Nov: Liam Gallagher. 30 Nov: The Chemical Brothers. Please check for

times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 4-6 Nov: Protocol: Simon Phillips’ 30th anniversary. 18-19 Nov: Hermeto Pascoal. 26-30 Nov: Mario

witnesscountyhall.com

Royal Festival Hall 12 Nov: Celebrating the Academy at 60:

Gala Concert. The Academy of St Martin-inthe-Fields and Joshua Bell mark the orchestra’s 60th anniversary. 15 Nov: Trevor Watts Quartet. 18 Nov: Corinne Bailey Rae. Check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

THE MOUSETRAP © ISTOCK

A UNIQUE COURTROOM STAGING AT LONDON COUNTY HALL, SOUTHBANK SE1 (NEAR TO THE LONDON EYE)

Biondi. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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ENTERTAINMENT

DANCE The Peacock To 9 Nov: Some Like it Hip Hop. Fun hip-hop dance show by ZooNation: The Kate Prince Company, which is behind the hit shows Into the Hoods and Sylvia. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

In the heart of Leicester Square

Sadler’s Wells To 12 Nov: FranceDance UK. The Institut Français brings French contemporary dance to venues across the country as part of this series of performances. 7-9 Nov: Rambert. A contemporary mix of dance, music and design. 18-23 Nov: Acosta Danza. The Cuban company’s latest programme. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA London Coliseum To 19 Nov: Orpheus and Eurydice (Gluck). The classic tragedy about Orpheus rescuing his wife Eurydice from the underworld. Check for times and prices. www.eno.org. London Coliseum, 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House To 2 Nov: Don Pasquale (Donizetti). Bryn Terfel leads a star cast in this comic tale. 2-7 Nov: The Magic Flute. Mozart’s much-loved opera. www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Last minute & discount theatre tickets

CHILDREN & FAMILIES The Dong with a Luminous Nose To 10 Nov: A puppet show about an oddball called Edward who makes no effort to get on with other people. Suitable for over-sevens. Please check for times. Adult £14; child £12. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

The Further Adventures of the Owl and the Pussy Cat To 17 Nov: When their golden ring is stolen, the duo must travel to search for the thief across the sea. Suitable for three- to eight-year-olds. Please check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Oscar Wilde’s The Canterville Ghost From 10 Nov: Wilde’s 1887 comic novel is brought to life with magic. Mr and Mrs Otis and their children arrive from the States to move into Canterville Chase, a Gothic mansion haunted by Sir Simon Canterville. Check for times. Adult £16-£28; child £12-£22. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

The Wolf, the Duck and the Mouse From 15 Nov: When a stalker begins to hunt Wolf, he is joined by Duck and Mouse to hatch a plan to survive. Adult £12-£22; child £12-£16. Check for times. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 0207645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

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SHOPPING MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts and crafts. While there, head to Seven Dials. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket fashion, it still attracts a trendy crowd. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Regent Street

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason Established in 1707, this is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys

Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. It also has demonstrations of toys and games. Please check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Savile Row

Harrods

One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Browse magnificent Edwardian food and meat halls and a range of fashion and cosmetics, then stay for afternoon tea. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

John Lewis & Partners Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Please check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. This is the largest shop on Oxford Street: visit the department store for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES

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Burlington Arcade

Join the sisterhood

They say that behind every great man is a great woman, a fact exemplified by the National Portrait Gallery’s Pre-Raphaelite Sisters exhibition. Effie Millais, Elizabeth Siddal and Joanna Mary Wells, to name just a few, were muses, partners and sisters to the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and more than matched the men in their artistic prowess. In a bid to bring these women’s stories into the spotlight, jeweller Dinny Hall has partnered with the National Portrait Gallery to create a stunning capsule collection. Sun Beams offers pieces rendered in 22-carat gold vermeil that aptly express the idea of the Sisterhood coming out from under a bushel and the ethereal vibe of the movement as a whole. White Petals, meanwhile, encompasses sterling silver earrings and chains that beautifully evoke the white blossoms which feature in many of the artworks on display. Seek them out at the shop inside the National Portrait Gallery (p. 39) or in Dinny Hall’s boutiques. www.dinnyhall.com

Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade is home to high-end specialist shops. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Leadenhall Market A beautiful Victorian covered market in the City. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.

FASHION Alexander McQueen Flagship fashion boutique with clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Burberry Find a classic trench coat for men, women or children by this British label, which also has a monogramming service. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (C4 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73 50

DINNY HALL EARRINGS COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY SHOP; SOPHIE GRAY BY MILLAIS © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

Selfridges

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A cut above

Our fa vourit e CL

ASS SHOPSIC

Savile Row is synonymous with style. Kathryn Conway talks to Simon Cundey from legendary tailor, Henry Poole & Co.

IMAGES © OLIVIER HESS

DINNY HALL EARRINGS COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY SHOP; SOPHIE GRAY BY MILLAIS © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

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ble to trace his family business back to 1806, Simon Cundey is the seventh generation to lead Henry Poole & Co., the tailor recognised as the founder of one of London’s most famous streets: Savile Row. Here, Cundey gives us an insight into this bastion of great British tailoring. ‘Henry Poole itself is known as the founding father of Savile Row [Henry Poole opened his doors on the row in 1846] and the inventor of the dinner suit. Those are probably the key points to us as a business. We also hold a large number of Royal Warrants,’ he says. ‘The dinner suit really came about through Edward VII, the dandy prince as he was, who was very much into his sporting attire and sporting events – anything from shooting and sailing to horse racing. Henry Poole was a socialite himself and encouraged his Highness to dress to the full, adding

little design details to his wardrobe such as the Prince of Wales check, for example. Although that was invented by Lady Seafield in 1840, it was made iconic by Edward VII. ‘Other notable clients include Sir Winston Churchill. It was a great pleasure working with Gary Oldman [for Darkest Hour]. Jacqueline [Durran, the costume designer] approached us and really wanted to go into detail and because our records (which are the biggest records of any European tailor) go back to 1846, we could actually pinpoint Churchill’s measurements at various periods in his life. ‘This archive is fascinating for clients too, of course. There are many families who go back in our books that we still dress today, which is fantastic for the next generation to experience when they come and order their suits. We are also constantly coming across people who we’ve not heard mentioned

before. Recently we found Ulysses Grant and Buffalo Bill as customers – none of these characters we would have dreamt of as being our customers and yet there they are in the books. It’s amazing. ‘We offer “pure bespoke”, which means to say that items are cut and made on the premises and you actually physically meet your cutter, your coat maker, your trouser maker and waistcoat maker all onsite – that’s what’s key for keeping it “real Savile Row”, as we call it. ‘I think it’s remarkable to have one destination that houses men’s clothing in all tranches, whether it’s custom-made or off-the-rack, it is possible to have it all on one street, which is unique. To have one street that is dedicated to men’s tailoring is rather special.’ James Sherwood’s book, Henry Poole & Co.: The First Tailor of Savile Row, is out now. 15 Savile Row, W1S 3PJ. T: 020-7734 5985. www.henrypoole.com www.wheretraveler.com 51

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Covent Garden

SHOPPING

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Twinings L STREET

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Vivobarefoot Crazy Pig Elliot Rhodes Offspring Designs E N AllSaints DEL Clair Naa TCG L S London Molteni&C Dada Lululemon TRE B Birkenstock ET Masala ZoneO W S Vans NEA Office TR Restaurant French Bare Escentuals L S EE Ellesse T R ESabon T Connection ET Speedo Nike Geox LEE KNOMO Rolex N. Peal Mango Diesel Benefit Cosmetics Camper L’S Ray Ban Mulberry Fresh Bobbi Brown NEA D Botique S T YAR Coco De Mer Tiffany & Co. TUMI FlyMLondon Clinique Penhaligon’s Dr. Martens Kiehl’s CHANEL A H Cath Linda Farrow L COVENT GARDEN Links of London Penhaligon’s R Kidston L A KarenJMillen NG Club Monaco AM Dior EA LEY Miller Harris ES Atelier Cologne Sonos ST ST Kurt Geiger Stanfords Rohan Unconditional Paul Smith MAC CARAT Tom Ford Crabtree & Evelyn ME Cosmetics R C E Aspinal of London Beauty Laura Lee Jewellery R S Diptyque Michael Kors Apple Store T R E Levis Tatty Devine E TARKET Radley Le Labo Jack Wolfskin b. The Cambridge Danse agnès The Shop at The Bluebird Satchel Company Lente Oakley Pretty Ballerinas Burberry K-Way COS Urban Decay The White Moleskine Monica Vinader Fred Perry Pandora Company Oliver Sweeney Mariage Frères Aesop & Other Stories Hackett NT E The Real McCoy’s Barbour V Jo Malone O C Sandro Jack Wills Calzedonia Claudie EN Pierlot GARD les EL

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If you want to travel in style, head to Cath Kidston. Home to rucksacks and totes, take your pick from these practical and pretty products with distinctive prints, which include floral and London-inspired designs. 28-32 Shelton St, WC2H 9JE. T: 020-7240 8324. www.cathkidston.com

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Ben Sherman Levi’s Puma

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Calzedonia

Cloth House Beyond Retro

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With its silk scarves, stunning stationery and a world-famous haberdashery department, Liberty is one of the most iconic stores in London. Look out for the new, exclusive Emma Bridgewater Dark Dahlia crockery collection. Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. www.libertylondon.com

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Banana Republic

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CA STR RNAB EET Y & For s por t SOHO and y labels tren nam dy es

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS

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Urban Outfitters Russell & Bromley H&M Mango Uniqlo M&S Sports Direct Zara OXF American Apparel STREE

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SHOPPING

DID YOU KNOW?

Westfield London

Liberty opened in 1875, after Arthur Lasenby Liberty borrowed £2,000 from his father-in-law

This huge shopping centre has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City

Chanel Exuding style and class in all of its designs and products, fashion-forward shoppers can browse accessories, clothing and bags. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hackett This store is for shoppers who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look. www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY (multiple locations). T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars. www.iconattheo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

London Designer Outlet Mall with around 70 high-street retailers offering reductions of up to 70 per cent. Check for times. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0RX. T: 020-8912 5210. Off map. Station: Wembley Park/Wembley Stadium.

This mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/ stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This British jewellery brand sells beautiful couture designs. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD (and branches). T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

SPECIALIST STORES

www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Japan Centre Outlet for traditional food and ingredients from Japan. www.japancentre.com. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

London Glassblowing Get a souvenir at this gallery and shop. www.london glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

The Noble Collection Explore licensed, finely crafted treasures from Fantastic Beasts, Harry Potter, Game of Thrones and The Lord of the Rings. www.noblecollection.co.uk. 26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9QQ. T: 020-3795 6298. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Red Bus Shop Souvenir shop stocking London-related products and the Harry Potter range. www.redbus shop.co.uk. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ (and branches). T: 020-7401 7033. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Twinings Trading since 1706, this shop stocks teas. Daily, check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

The Whisky Exchange

Buckingham Palace Shop Browse royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm.

Choose from a wide range of fine whiskies and spirits. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

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Value Added Tax (VAT ) is a 20 per cent sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

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Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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DINING If you’ve wondered what Londoners have been eating for centuries, the menus of these three oldest restaurants reveal it’s oysters, fish and meat. Sarah Riches has a taste THOMAS SIMPSON opened a restaurant in 1723 in Billingsgate, which morphed into Simpson’s Tavern near Leadenhall Market in 1757. You might recognise its exterior from the 2017 film The Mummy, starring Tom Cruise. While the restaurant serves fisherman’s pie, the menu is heavy on meat – try the Edwardian pork chop or roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, kidneys and bubble and squeak (cabbage and potato). There is always a daily set special. Bar tender Jean Churcher has worked at Simpson’s Tavern since 1978. She says: ‘I joined the restaurant because it felt like I was transported back in time and I’ve never looked back.

Our fa vourit e OLD

RESTA EST URAN TS

‘Originally, a chairman presided over meals, ensuring lunch started promptly at one. He’d introduce notable guests and measure the cheese. This led to the ‘guessing of the cheese’ custom: bets were placed on a cheese’s height, weight and girth, and later cigars or Champagne were given as prizes. We still have weekly guessing challenges. ‘The restaurant has survived because we’ve stuck to what we do best and after 250 years, we still do all the same dishes we are known for. We have stuck to our niche of serving traditional British cuisine in Victorian communal booths. We have never been dictated by trends and new openings.’ www.simpsonstavern.co.uk

Jean Churcher

Rules

RULES claims to be London’s oldest restaurant – it was established by Thomas Rule in 1798. Charles Dickens, Charlie Chaplin, Stan Laurel and Clark Gable have all dined here and it was featured in the 2015 James Bond film Spectre and on TV’s Downton Abbey. It specialises in oysters, pies and game, so order Jersey rock oysters or steak and kidney suet pudding. The restaurant also owns an estate in the north of England, where its staff are trained in game management. As it’s Game Week (from 25 Nov), why not order partridge or pheasant? Just leave room for a traditional dessert, such as a golden syrup steamed sponge with custard. www.rules.co.uk

Oysters at Wiltons

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DINING

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Goodman Top New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged in house, plus dishes including poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe Piccadilly Circus London’s legendary burger bar has rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. Its extensive menu includes jumbo wings, nachos and ribs. Daily L & D. ££. Criterion Building, 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR (and branch). T: 020-7287 4600. www.hard rock.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London The original London branch, this burger bar is decorated with rock memorabilia. Save room for the apple cobbler. Daily L & D. ££. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ (and branch). T: 020-7514 1700. www.hardrock.com. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef with various sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with film memorabilia and an international menu. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe

were called nannies as the gentlemen who dined with us were used to nannies in their home life. Wiltons’ nannies could be equally formidable. ‘Over the years I’ve noticed a lot less alcohol during lunch, lighter lunches and fewer business lunches that continue into the early evening. More diners request dishes without salt, butter or other saturated fats. There has been an increase in food intolerances and allergies. ‘I have met the Queen Mother, Princess Anne, Prince Andrew and kings and queens from around the world. I’ve also met Tom Hanks, Tom Cruise, Natalie Portman, Sean Connery and Alec Guinness, who’d dine on a dozen oysters and a tankard of his namesake. Celebrities visit when discretion is required. In 21 years, the paparazzi have only appeared twice, both times when the celebrity arrived with them.’ Michael Stokes www.wiltons.co.uk

BRITISH (MODERN) Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked on a Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as honey-marinated tuna steak (p. 60). This luxury venue also has a terrace and bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Darwin Brasserie Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ for citywide views. Sample dishes include sea trout with roast pumpkin, artichoke and kale pesto. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Fenchurch Restaurant ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RESTAURANTS

WILTONS in Mayfair dates back to 1742, when George Wilton opened an oyster stall near Haymarket. His grandson Robert transformed it into a restaurant, which was awarded a Royal Warrant in 1868 after serving oysters to Queen Victoria. In 1942 the owner hired oysterman Jimmy Marks; its current location on Jermyn Street, which dates from 1984, has a private room named after him. The old adage, ‘stick to what you know’, rings true here, so you’ll be in safe hands if you order oysters. Try caviar, crab, shrimp and eel, too. Carnivores can order from a carving trolley, too. House manager Michael Stokes has worked at Wiltons since 1998. He says: ‘It feels like a country house in London. It’s lasted because it doesn’t chase the dollar, the yen or the ruble. We’ve stayed true to our core values: excellent produce, cooked simply and served by attentive staff. ‘In years gone by, Wiltons’ waitresses

Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals and a menu including pasta and chargrilled chicken. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This smart brasserie on the roof of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ has spectacular views. It serves Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops and Devon lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING

Claridge’s

AFTERNOON TEA

ueen Victoria’s friend and assistant, the seventh Duchess of Bedford Anna Russell, began the British tradition of afternoon tea in 1840. The duchess would request tea, buttered bread and cake in her room around 4pm, and she began inviting friends to join her. By the 1880s, upper-class women would dress up in gowns, gloves and hats for the light meal, which was served on low tables in drawing rooms. While the meal has evolved into teas themed around everything from Alice in Wonderland to Wimbledon, a classic tea will feature crustless sandwiches filled with smoked salmon and cucumber, scones, bite-size patisseries and loose-leaf tea. Here are three of the city’s oldest.

Brown’s Hotel The Langham

William and Marianne Claridge took over this Mayfair hotel around 1850, before expanding it in 1854; Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited shortly after. Afternoon tea is served on whiteand-mint-green stripy bone china in the Foyer and Reading Room. Start with sandwiches made with British classics such as duck egg, cucumber and Scottish salmon – the filling is equal thickness to the bread. After scones and clotted cream, enjoy treats such as strawberry tart, accompanied by tea sourced by the Rare Tea Company. www.claridges.co.uk.

BROWN’S HOTEL Dating from 1837 – the year Queen Victoria took the throne – this hotel serves tea in its English Tea Room, a wood-panelled room with original fireplaces and a grand piano. Savoury bites are classic with a twist: smoked

salmon on onion bread; coronation chicken with dried apricots; prawn cocktail with paprika on potato buns. After scones, finish with sweets which might include a lemon and yuzu white chocolate cream. Order tea handpicked from Tregothnan estate in Cornwall. www.roccofortehotels.com.

THE LANGHAM This hotel has served afternoon tea since it opened in 1865 – Napoleon III and Charles Dickens stayed here. It is opposite the BBC, so these days it’s popular with TV presenters. Our reviewer enjoyed warm scones with peach and thyme jam, savoury tarts and loose-leaf tea, all served on Wedgwood crockery in the Palm Court. She said: ‘I noticed their attention to detail; I was given a stool to put my bag on and cake to take home, which was a nice surprise.’ www.langhamhotels.com.

The Langham

Great Court Restaurant

St Pancras by Searcys

The English Grill

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves all-day British dishes and has a Champagne bar overlooking the trains. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Hotel restaurant with chandeliers, leather banquettes and high ceilings. Go for the grilled meat and daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 0207834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Montagu Kitchen Modern brasserie with seasonal, locally sourced dishes, weekend brunches and afternoon teas. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.themontagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Rex Whistler Restaurant

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant This elegant hotel restaurant attracts an older crowd and is known for its Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge is an ideal setting for afternoon tea. Check for opening times. ££. Daily. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ritz Restaurant

Originally opened in 1927, this restaurant in the Tate Britain art gallery features a mural. It is known for its wine list, which goes well with roast beef or lemon sole. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Café in the Crypt Underneath the landmark church, this brick-vaulted café serves classic English comfort food. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Enjoy classic British dishes in this beautiful, chandelier-filled dining room, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E7. Station: Green Park.

Sophie’s Steakhouse

Cheneston’s

The Wolseley

The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace at the front. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

In this wood-panelled dining room, choose dishes such as pan-seared venison and Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast; it also has a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

BROWN’S © VICTORIA METAXAS; CLARIDGE’S COURTESY OF CLARIDGE’S; THE LANGHAM © SIMON JOHN OWEN/WONDERHATCH

CLARIDGE’S

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING

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Seventh heaven

REVIEW

If you’re a foodie, then you’ve probably heard of Scarpetta, which created a buzz in Manhattan and was rated ‘excellent’ by The New York Times. Anything delicious enough for New Yorkers is sure to be gobbled up by Londoners and so, after five further openings in the USA, Scarpetta Restaurants and its Italian treats have landed at the Bvlgari Hotel London in Knightsbridge. Called Sette (‘seven’ in Italian), it’s a glamorous, circular bar and intimate dining room (p. 60). On our visit, families feasted alongside couples, but everyone was dressed up: Sette is special-occasion territory. The menu includes the signature tomato spaghetti, which is indeed delicious, while the Valrhona chocolate cake is a velvety dream for which you should resolutely reserve room in your belly. Ground Floor, 4 Knightsbridge Green, SW1X 7QA. T: 020-7151 1010. www.bulgarihotels.com

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Chai Wu This contemporary restaurant on the fifth floor of Harrods serves dishes made with the finest ingredients, including Wagyu beef and Alaskan king crab. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan A dimly-lit restaurant with modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal China This flagship branch serves Cantonese dishes and great dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.royalchina group.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Yauatcha Award-winning dim sum restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL (and Broadgate Circle branch). T: 020-7494 8888. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street

Lucky Cat Gordon Ramsay’s dark and sexy restaurant serves Asian sharing plates and sushi from a raw bar. Book the raised platform, where you sit on cushions. £££. Daily L & D. www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com. 10 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP. T: 020-7197 0000. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mere Le Gavroche chef Monica Galetti’s first solo restaurant brings a touch of her Samoan roots to this sophisticated venue, with tasting menus including vegetarian dishes. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mere-restaurant.com. 74 Charlotte St, W1T 4QH. T: 020-7268 6565. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, with great views. It serves European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. E10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD J. Sheekey Chic seafood restaurant loved by celebrities for more than a century. There is also an oyster and Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 0207240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Shell Co.

This brasserie, in a Grade-II-listed former bank, has a huge glass dome. Favourites include grilled kippers and caramelised duck. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Dine on a canal boat from a five-course menu, with delicacies such as cured Dorset char with egg yolk confit. Diners share tables. £££. Wed-Fri L & D. www.londonshellco.com. Sheldon Square, W2 6EP. T: 07818-666 005. D4. Station: Paddington.

Galvin at Windows

Neptune

Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

This Grade-II-listed dining room is a grand spot. For a special occasion, opt for the seafood platter and oysters. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ivy This historic-yet-fashionable restaurant serves British and Asian dishes such as shepherd’s pie and Thai seabass. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branches). T: 020-7836 4751. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Exquisite food and service at a venue to dress up for – the restaurant has three Michelin stars. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This brasserie serves classics such as French onion soup, tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel French brasserie with high ceilings and marble columns. Go for the fish stew, stay for the cabaret at Live at Zédel. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste Michelin-starred hotel dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room shrouded in plants and flowers, with an excellent wine list and dishes such as truffle pappardella. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2E 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open, theatrical kitchen and serves grilled dishes and biryanis with exquisite flavours. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Lowndes St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Sea Shell

Benares

This decades-old restaurant has attracted famous diners over the years. Order fish and chips, pies or fishcakes. ££. Daily L & D. www.seashellrestaurant. co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

Excellent tasting menu and street food. There is also a cocktail lounge. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

SETTE © DAVID CLEVELAND

CHINESE

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A longstanding favourite in Mayfair, El Pirata, celebrates its 25th anniversary this year! Loyal locals and visitors love its authentic Spanish tapas menu, with favourites such as chorizo, fiery padron peppers, Jamon Iberico, and myriad types of seafood dishes such as Mediterranean prawns and calamari. It even offers a set tapas menu to make your choices easier. The ambiance here is truly magical, a mixture of Mayfair elegance with a cozy, friendly feel, plus superb service. There’s also an impressive selection of Spanish wines on the menu.

‘A Spanish gem’ – Zagat ‘with surprisingly good prices’ – Harden’s Mon – Fri: 12.00pm – 11.30pm Saturday: 6.00pm – 11.30pm 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair W1J 7AQ 020 7491 3810 | www.elpirata.co.uk

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DINING

Enjoy a gourmet tour of India, with a wonderful range of traditional items served in a modern style in this beautiful restaurant and dining bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gymkhana Inspired by colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant features antique wall lamps and barometers. It serves kebabs, game curry and biryani. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E7. Station: Green Park.

Masala Zone A vibrant restaurant that serves street food, thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D8. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tamarind Tasting menus of Indian dishes with a modern twist, served in newly-refurbished surroundings in a light-filled dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Thali Half a rickshaw is mounted on a bare brick wall at this popular Indian, which serves classic dishes such as tandoori prawns, lamb curry and crab patties. £££. Daily L & D. www.thali.uk.com. 166 Old Brompton Rd, SW5 0BA. T: 020-7373 2626. Off map. Station: South Kensington.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest and most famous Indian Michelin-starred restaurant has an opulent, Maharajah-inspired interior. Signature dishes include Patiala lamb shank and lobster curry. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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INTERNATIONAL Bbar South Africa-inspired restaurant and bar featuring safari photographs and animal-print banquettes. Try the biltong and rib-eye steak. It has live music Thursday to Saturday and a terrace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

DID YOU KNOW? Rules was opened in 1798 by Thomas Rule and was originally an oyster bar

The Cavendish The European menu includes smoked burrata, black pudding Scotch egg and truffle oil flatbreads. Formal upstairs dining area and relaxed downstairs with brick walls. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Onima Dine by large windows at lunch or in a dimly-lit setting for dinner. The Greek-Asian menu has starters such as Sicilian prawns marinated in olive oil and lemon, while mains include black ink risotto with octopus. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.onima restaurant.com. 1-3 Avery Row, W1K 4AJ. T: 0207078 9747. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Terrace This restaurant has an opulent feel thanks to high ceilings, velvet chairs and chandeliers. Choose from salads, burgers, Italian dishes and small plates. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

ITALIAN

This popular chain of cafés has recently refurbished its Kensington branch. Go for breakfast, a cream tea or Italian classics such as Parma ham tartine and artichoke tagliatelle – save space for cake. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.caffeconcerto.co.uk. 88 Kensington High St, W8 4SG (and branches). T: 020-7494 6850. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Cicchetti All-day dining venue with regional specialities to share, as well as antipasti and cured meat. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sette Fans of New York’s Scarpetta will enjoy dining at this upmarket hotel restaurant. Dishes include crab tagliatelle, while there’s also a family-friendly Sunday brunch (p. 58). £££. Daily B, L & D. www.settelondon. co.uk. 4 Knightsbridge Green, SW1X 7QA. T: 0207151 1025. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Verdi Italian Kitchen

Bocca di Lupo Regional Italian cuisine, such as chicken scallopine with girolles and tagliatelle with duck ragú. Counter seating is great for solo diners. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.boccadilupo.com. 12 Archer St, W1D 7BB. T: 020-7734 2223. E6. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Food for thought

Caffè Concerto

REVIEW

If you’d like to dine in a traditional setting, then St Ermin’s Hotel fits the bill. Former Prime Minister Winston Churchill was a regular during World War II, when the UK’s intelligence service MI6 was stationed at the hotel. Today, the red-brick mansion retains its Government connections – there’s a bell in the lobby that used to call MPs to vote and MPs still stay here. The hotel’s European restaurant, Caxton Grill (p. 55), is as charming as its history. As the name suggests, it specialises in dishes cooked on a Josper grill – so choose from Aberdeen Angus rib-eye, Wagyu burgers, Cornish lemon sole and Loch Duart salmon. We had smoked-chicken terrine followed by a rare-breed pork chop – the herbs were grown in the rooftop garden, while the honey in our cocktail was produced by its beehives. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7222 7888. www.caxtongrill.co.uk

Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in this music hall, with regular free live music on Fridays. There are also vegan and children’s menus. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana As chefs grill dishes at your table, they flip ingredients in their hats, shout and tap their spatulas – fun for kids. Try the Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order saké and craft beers alongside nibbles and small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysée This family-run restaurant, opened in 1936, serves traditional Greek dishes. Roof garden, shisha lounge and late licence. £££. Daily D; Mon-Fri & Sun L. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Dine on Moroccan classics and North African dishes with a contemporary twist in this famous, recently renovated restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

RULES COURTESY OF RULES; CAXTON GRILL COURTESY OF ST ERMIN’S HOTEL

Chutney Mary

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DINING Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with dishes to share. Downstairs has communal tables. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen

IMAGES COURTESY OF NUTSHELL

Authentic Lebanese and Moroccan cuisine such as lentil soup and meat cooked on a charcoal grill. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

RIVERSIDE Enjoy a restaurant experience on the Thames with views of the city’s landmarks and live entertainment. Daily departures from Embankment Pier; with a range of packages available. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun L with jazz. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea aboard this boat. Dinner is accompanied by live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

R.S. Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

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In a nutshell

A successful restaurant in central London is a tough nut to crack but if anyone can do it, Portuguese chef Leonardo Pereira can. Pereira has teamed up with Mohammad Paknejad and Marwa Alkhalaf to create Nutshell – the Iranian menu draws on authentic ingredients such as pistachio, rose, saffron and mint. Try Iranian caviar, goat leg, beef dumplings and sour cherry rice, with deep-fried batter and fig cream for dessert. The ground floor has a casual vibe with counter seating and pop art while upstairs is formal, making this restaurant worth shelling out for. 30 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ER. T: 020-3409 7926. www.nutshelllondon.co.uk

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Bateaux London

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DINING

SOUTH EAST ASIAN

ENJOY THE THALI AT

Mango Tree This fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace serves Thai dishes such as barbecue pork, spicy fish cakes and coconut milk soup. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Rosa’s Thai Café Slide into a wooden booth in this informal joint off Carnaby Street. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthai cafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Thai Pot This casual spot offers good-value dishes such as stir-fried beef, fish cakes and sticky rice. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Yuu Kitchen A former chef at Nobu is behind this restaurant, which serves sharing plates inspired by Japanese, Filipino, Taiwanese and Hawaiian cuisine. £-££. Mon-Tue D; Wed-Sun L & D. www.yuukitchen.com. 29 Commercial St, E1 6NE (and branches). T: 0207377 0411. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

SPANISH El Pirata This Mayfair restaurant has been serving tapas for 25 years. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.el pirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ibérica

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CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Start with cheese and charcuterie, move on to paella or tapas then end with churros. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro At this North African-Spanish restaurant, the weekly menu features charcoal-grilled brill and yoghurt cake with pistachios. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. C9. Station: Farringdon.

VEGAN & VEGETARIAN The Gate Serving gourmet vegan and veggie dishes by candlelight since 1989. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds This informal, lively Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as Vietnamese ‘duck’. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tibits Vegetarian buffet with hot dishes, salads and desserts, which you pay for by plate weight. Relaxed and friendly. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Veggie Indian dishes in stylish surroundings, including street food, dosas and thalis. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street. www.wheretraveler.com 63

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NIGHTLIFE

‘Raise a glass to London’s living history ’

Our fav ourite TI

f you’ve come to London for a pint in a historic pub, then you’re in the right place. Some of the city’s oldest pubs are in and around Fleet Street, so why not go on a bar crawl and visit a few of them? The timber beams in The Seven Stars date from 1602, although its corner fireplace and mirrored bar were added later (around 1900). Local photographer Derek Tutssel says: ‘As the pub is behind the Royal Courts of Justice, lots of lawyers come here. I come because it’s quirky. The historical element gives it atmosphere.’ Take time to browse the black-and-white photos hanging on the wall and seek out its resident cat, Peabody (www.thesevenstars1602.co.uk). While a pub has been on the site of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (p. 66) since 1538, the current building dates from 1667, a year after the Great Fire of London destroyed much of the city. It’s easily missed, as it’s tucked down an alleyway. Before you enter, read the sign outside, which lists England’s monarchs from 1685. Inside, flagstone floors, wood panelling and beams help you imagine the past, when Charles Dickens, Mark Twain and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle were regulars.

MELES PUBS S

A sign in the vaulted cellars reads ‘A pub has stood on this site since 1538’. Order a pint and warm up by a fireplace. The pub is also thought to have been a brothel, as a fireplace upstairs was decorated with tiles depicting erotic scenes. Dating from 1740, they were donated to the Museum of London. The Tipperary, opposite, also dates from around 1667. Assistant manager Teresa says: ‘The pub was built on the site of a monastery which dated back to 1300 – the monks brewed ale. The Boar’s Head pub was built in 1605 and survived the fire as it was made of stone and brick; that’s still the name of the dining room upstairs. Around 1700, a Dublin brewery, Mooney & Sons, bought the venue and it became England’s first Irish pub. It was also the first English pub to serve bottled and later draft Guinness.’ Look out for original mirrors, a tartan carpet and a shamrock mosaic (www.thetipperarypub.com).

SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor

Clockwise from left: Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese; Tipperary bar; The Tipperary sign; Jacobean front of a Fleet Street building

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T H E M O S T FA M O U S G E N T L E M E N ’ S C LU B A N D R E S TA U R A N T I N T H E W O R L D DI S CRE T I O N

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For Reservations and Enquiries

020 724 0 55 3 4 w w w. s t r i n g f e l l o w s . c o . u k Club open

Monday to Saturday 9.00 pm - 4.30 am or later 16 -1 9 U p p e r St . M a r t i n’s L a n e , L o n d o n WC 2 H 9 E F

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NIGHTLIFE

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub opened 100 years ago. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck

This 17th-century pub in a pretty location is a real step back in time. It is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The George Inn This tucked-away, historic pub was established during the medieval period. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food. www.theguinea. co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

The Magpie & Stump This dates back to the 1500s and doubled up as a viewing spot for hangings. Closed weekends. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

‘‘

East is east

REVIEW

Transport yourself to 1960s Hong Kong at Wun’s Tea Room & Bar in Soho. The husband-and-wife team behind nearby Bun House have opened this dai pai dong, a café with folding doors and street-side tables. It serves dishes inspired by wife Z’s childhood, such as fried mantou (buns) and sour-braised plum duck made using her grandma’s recipe. You can also try egg tarts, served by waitresses dressed in silk cheongsams. Downstairs has the vibe of Hong Kong’s nightlife district, Wan Chai, with neon-lit Chinese characters on brick walls. Sink into velvet banquettes and swig bottles of Young Master craft beer, or order cocktails made with plum wine, sugar cane, black sesame or the citrus fruit kumquat, served in Chinese teapots. 23 Greek St, W1D 4DZ. T: 020-8017 9888. www.tearoom.bar

GONG Bar

St Pancras Champagne Bar

This popular Irish venue has four bars split over six levels. It has pub food and live music. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 0207287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

On level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of London’s highest Champagne bars, ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Order bubbly at Europe’s longest Champagne bar. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Waxy’s Little Sister

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Waxy O’Connor’s

A smaller sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s, serving traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was rebuilt soon after the Great Fire of 1666 (p. 64). 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Jack Solomons Club Ring a bell in a kiosk in Soho and you’ll be granted access to this underground bar and club inspired by a boxer. www.jacksolomons.com. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Back Room

Nightjar

Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this fun bar displays vintage and iconic music items. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Dukes Bar

Scarfes Bar

An outstanding bar, renowned for its superior Martinis and oozing old-world charm. www.dukes hotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

This is named after the British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe. His caricatures line the walls. www.scarfes bar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

CASINOS Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has fabulous gaming, plus the Heliot Steak House. Open 24 hours. www.hippo dromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square.

Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73

IMAGES COURTESY OF WUN’S TEA ROOM & BAR

The Flask

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A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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QUA L I T Y

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S ERV I CE

For Reservations and Enquiries

020 724 0 55 3 4 w w w. s t r i n g f e l l o w s . c o . u k Club open

Monday to Saturday 9.00 pm - 4.30 am or later 16 -1 9 U p p e r St . M a r t i n’s L a n e , L o n d o n WC 2 H 9 E F

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Step back in time

Chris Johnson visits the oldest barbershop in the world

ounded in St James’s in 1805, Truefitt & Hill is recognised by the Guinness World Records as the world’s oldest barbershop. If you need a spruce-up during your trip, then this master barbers offers a quintessentially English grooming experience. I hardly had time to settle in one of the deep-leather barber’s chairs before master barber Michael regaled me with tales from the company’s illustrious past. ‘The company holds a Royal Warrant and has served the monarchs of Great Britain during nine consecutive reigns,’ says Michael. ‘Our old appointment books read like a who’s who of distinguished society. Our clientele has included Sir Winston Churchill, the Duke of Wellington, Charles Dickens, Alfred Hitchcock, Lord Byron, Oscar Wilde, Fred Astaire and Frank Sinatra.’

Truefitt’s story is also intertwined with the greatest tragedy of maritime history: the sinking of the Titanic in 1912. ‘Truefitt lost a number of its patrons to this disaster,’ Michael says. ‘Various bottles and pomade containers from HP Truefitt’s shop were retrieved as relics from the Titanic’s wreck and are in the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich.’ Listening to these stories in the comfort of the wood-panelled room, surrounded by portraits of patrons past, it would be tempting to see Truefitt & Hill as a place where time has stood still. Much of its clientele comes from nearby members’ clubs: White’s, Brooks’s and Boodle’s. However, good grooming and luxurious pampering have never gone out of fashion and I was here for a haircut, not a history lesson.

Our fa

TRADITvourite IO BARBE NAL R

Michael ran through the treatments on offer: everything from a hot-towel wet shave with a traditional cut-throat razor to a variety of facial treatments, haircuts, massages and manicures. I opted for a trim and soon Michael’s hands were deftly surveying the contours of my scalp, quietly determining the best cut to flatter my head shape. Within moments his scissors started skilfully snipping away and soon my appearance began to improve. A few final flourishes and yes, I could definitely pass muster in White’s or Boodle’s – or even the Palace itself. Truefitt & Hill has been the mark of a true gentleman for more than two centuries and no doubt shall continue to groom men for greatness for many generations to come. 1 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH. T: 020-7493 2961. www.truefittandhill.co.uk

CHRIS JOHNSON Content Director

IMAGE COURTESY OF TRUEFITT & HILL

WELLNESS

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WELLNESS

SPAS

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

Bamford Haybarn Spa First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage in your hotel room, apartment or the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07906-029577.

Bvlgari Spa This award-winning spa has 11 private treatment rooms and one double spa suite, with its own steam room, jacuzzi and treatment room. There’s also a fitness area and an exquisite 25m swimming pool. www.bulgarihotels.com. 171 Knightsbridge, SW7 1DW. T: 020-7151 1055. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

IMAGE COURTESY OF TRUEFITT & HILL

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, this spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens. Signature treatments include the warm bamboo massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for bridal and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials and massages for men and women. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch. This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese massage, which incorporates herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes, too. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

LATE APPOINTMENTS AVAILABLE

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper

es Clefs d’Or Concierges Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments. The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

by qualified female masseuse

Ushvani

obody knows London like Mandarin Oriental

AVENA MASSAGE

A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons

At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area

They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

where

Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie

ytoeverything www.lesclefsdorgb.org The Refinery

Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a lesson. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU (and Harrods branch). T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

@lesclefsdorgb lesclefsdorgb

Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for women. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

@lesclefsdorgb lesclefsdorgb

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 69 WL 57X124 CON FILLER 2018.indd 2 WL NOV wellnessuse.indd 69

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ESSENTIALS

TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night

Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Central, Jubilee, Northern (via Embankment), Piccadilly and Victoria lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card. You can make unlimited additional bus and tram journeys for free within one hour of first touching in. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/buses.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour services at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway (DLR) Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north, central and south-east UK. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. Visit www.nationalrail.co.uk St Pancras or call T: 0345-748 4950. Eurostar uses International. Visit www.eurostar.com. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/access and www.openbritain.net.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire cabs or minicabs, which you must book. We advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Congestion and Emissions Charges There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). This area is also the Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ); cars must meet emissions standards or pay a further daily charge. T: 0343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

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Ask the

CONCIERGE Sahil Suri ,

Assistant head concierge at The Cavendish London

Santander Cycles Dishoom

Any strange requests?

Any romantic ideas?

A guest asked me to join his family at a cricket match, so I could help them understand it!

Start your evening on the Coca-Cola London Eye, taking in the views with a glass of Champagne, followed by a dinner cruise on the Thames. Stop by Nightjar in Old Street for cocktails and jazz.

What’s the most popular request? Last-minute dinner reservations for soughtafter restaurants, tickets for Premier League games and popular plays.

How can you see London in a day? The best way to see London is aboard a hop-on, hop-off bus. If you’re feeling sporty, rent a Santander Cycle for £2 and pedal around the city at your leisure. ArcelorMittal Orbit

What can families do? Take little ones to the London Transport Museum, the Natural History Museum, The Postal Museum or Sea Life London Aquarium. My favourite is ZSL London Zoo. Teens looking for an adrenaline rush can abseil down the ArcelorMittal Orbit.

What’s your dream day in London? I’d have brunch at The Ivy Tower Bridge, then walk along the South Bank into Covent Garden for a pre-theatre meal at Dishoom. I’d catch a West End musical and have a few drinks at Mr Fogg’s Gin Parlour.

What’s beyond zone 2? Chislehurst Caves are only 30 minutes by train from Charing Cross, but you enter a different world when you arrive.

Share a hidden gem Alexandra Palace in north London is a fun getaway. There’s something for everyone: you can skate on a huge indoor ice rink, climb trees, play mini golf, visit a farmers’ market or take a boat out on the lake behind it.

What should repeat visitors do?

The Cotswolds

Car hire

On foot

Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion and Emissions Charges’ (p. 70). Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendall cars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 020-7591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

It’s often quicker to get around London on foot. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

River services

ORBIT © ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; MEAL COURTESY OF DISHOOM; SAHIL SURI COURTESY OF THE CAVENDISH LONDON; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

They can rent a car or a private guide and drive through the Cotswolds and visit Blenheim Palace – the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. Stop at Bicester Village to shop.

www.tfl.gov.uk/river Thames Clippers: www.thamesclippers.com. Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am) adult £19.80, child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60, children under five travel free. There are also discounts available on Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, via the app or online.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). Buy a combined ticket with Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. Cabins arrive every 30 seconds and the journey is between 5-10 minutes. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Share a quintessentially English experience Watch a Premier League football match at one of the London stadiums, soak in the atmosphere and enjoy a pie and a pint.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours and the first 30 mins of each journey are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub that offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Station: Victoria. D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. There is also a digital printing and copy service. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines

The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line • Victoria line: Across the entire line • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5 • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault www.wheretraveler.com 71

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MILES

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Piccadilly lights

PERFECT DAY Rita with Joss Stone

Rita with Paul McCartney

Which are your favourite buildings? It has to be the Piccadilly lights. On my 50th birthday, I was serving a man I didn’t know who turned out to be the chairman or CEO of Coca-Cola. He paid £11,500 for my name to appear on the lights! I was blindfolded and taken in a limousine to see them. Tell us your favourite museum. I like the Natural History Museum. I attended a charity event there for Pinktober with the TV presenter Gloria Hunniford about five years ago. Where do you like to shop? I’m a big lady, so I like the sizes in Marks & Spencer. I also like department stores such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Debenhams. I worked in Selfridges, so I have fond memories of the shop, and I think John Lewis has wonderful service. Which is your favourite green space? Hyde Park. For Hard Rock Cafe’s 40th anniversary, they built two pubs called Golden Oldie Rita’s Arms and Rita’s Arms after me in the park! I pulled pints and made cocktails. Tell us about a place in London that holds a special memory for you. My children were born in St Mary’s Hospital in Paddington and when they were young we lived in Queen’s Park. I liked the area because everyone talked to one another. How do you prefer to travel around the capital? I do like a black taxi and because I like to talk to people, I use the Tube and the red buses. A lot of people recognise me, especially when I’m in my waitressing uniform with the badges on.

Where do you go for a drink? The Rose & Crown pub on Old Park Lane, because I know the owners and everyone is friendly there. It serves great food, it’s not too expensive and it’s right across the road from Hyde Park. What’s your idea of a perfect evening’s entertainment? I’m 78 now so I don’t go out very much. But I’m Irish so I love Irish music. I used to go to concerts at Eventim Apollo in Hammersmith and I enjoy eating at The Wolseley, which is beautiful. Do you have a favourite hotel in London? I’ve often had lunch and afternoon tea at The Lanesborough, which has a smart dress code and excellent service – staff open the door for you. Visiting the Savoy also creates a memory for life. What makes London stand out from the rest of the world? Royalty, Wimbledon and the shops: it’s all about Harrods, Harrods, Harrods! And the buzz: there’s nothing like sitting outside drinking a coffee and soaking up the atmosphere. It’s a wonderful city. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700; 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR. T: 020-7287 4600. www.hardrockcafe.com

RITA GILLIGAN AND HARD ROCK CAFE IMAGES COURTESY OF HARD ROCK CAFE; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF THE LANESBOROUGH; THE SAVOY COURTESY OF THE SAVOY; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

Rita Gilligan

Rita began working at Hard Rock Cafe on the day it opened in 1971. She’s danced with Ronnie Wood, been serenaded by Noel Gallagher and kissed George Michael. She is now a brand ambassador for Hard Rock International

The Lanesborough

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Fine-Dining Tour of London Discover the most beautiful views of London whilst enjoying the best of its gastronomy with full wine pairing, whatever the weather!

YOUR JOURNEY TO TASTE Lunch Dinner Afternoon Tea

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