Where Paris - July 2015 by Where Paris

J ULY 2 0 15 ®

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 258

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

Royal PARIS

JULY 2015/#258

A Look into the Historical Chateaux

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Hortensia Collection

14 rue de Berri 75008 - Paris Tﾃｩl : +33(0)1 45 62 62 45 www.elysees-horlogerie.com

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July PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide 20 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 58 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 70 DINING

Our selection of restaurants 84 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and bars 94 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings J ULY 2 0 15 Issue N o 258

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

Royal PARIS

JULY 2015/#258

A Look into the Historical Chateaux

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ON THE COVER

Turn to page 14 to discover the city’s royal castles. The Château of Chantilly Photo © Otte

THE PORTFOLIO IN PARIS ®

18 98

We publish editions in Chinese (biannual), Russian (annual) and Latin American (annual).

Kings and Castles Discover the royal chateaux in the greater Paris area

Art Around Town

Открыть

Париж

We bring you the not to be missed exhibitions

РОСКОШЬ |МОДА | ГАСТРОНОМИЯ

| КУЛЬТУРА | КАРТЫ

银联国际

巴黎官方指南精品店

餐厅

景点

古迹

They are available on the concierge desk and in-room at all our partner hotels.

My Paris

Head Concierge Rémi Lashermes shares his favourite things about the city of Paris

PARIS - CHINESE EDITION

PARIS - RUSSIAN EDITION

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CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

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East Mamma © Renaud Cambuzat

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We are celebrating F. A. Lange’s 200th birthday – by devoting every minute to our watches.

F. A. Lange devoted his entire life to perfecting the mechanical

pursue the perfection of every watch down to the smallest detail

watch. He invented pioneering designs and production methods and

– for example of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.

developed totally new precision measuring instruments – based, for

Even those parts of its movement are lavishly decorated that remain

the very first time, on the metric system. Today, we also passionately

hidden from the eye of the beholder. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

BOUTIQUE A. LANGE & SÖHNE PARIS 19, rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, Tel. 01 42 65 68 71

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Welcome to Paris

the team | where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and General manager

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

EDITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton

July 14th marks France’s national holiday and it is a day to celebrate everything about what makes France so great. So on Bastille Day and every other day this month we bring you the best the country has to offer.

ART EDITOR Shelley Varley DESIGNER Grant Pearce PRODUCTION MANAGER/london Melanie Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANTs Richard Darani, David Weeks

Full of history and charm the chateaux of France tell a thousand tales and this month we take you on a tour of some of the most impressive chateaux around the French capital including the Château of Chantilly.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* Designer and production Manager Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* Fashion Photographer Luigi Di Donna

In this issue we also bring you the exhibitions not to miss including the Jean Paul Gaultier retrospective at the Grand Palais and the Jeanne Lanvin show at the Palais Galliera, both showcasing the French designers’ works that made Paris the fashion capital of the world. She is one of France’s most beautiful women, and a world icon, and this month Brigitte Bardot inspired our fun fashion shoot, Being Brigitte. Shop your way to the fashion icon’s style with cheeky shorts, sexy dresses and of course her signature shoes, the ballerina slippers. Cycling’s prestigious sporting event, the Tour de France, will zip through the city with the sleekest and fastest cyclist taking the coveted prize on the 26th, meanwhile cocktail enthusiasts will discover the talented barmen behind the city’s coolest bars, just turn to our Entertainment section for all the best addresses.

Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advertising - SENIOR account manager Corinne Durant* advertising - account managers Guillaume Prevel*, Romain Margot-Dufour* Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr Publicité secteurs Vins, Champagnes, Automobile PUBLIPERFORMANCES Tel : 09 64 10 57 35 pturcan@publiperformances.fr DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang* Marketing & communication coordinator Jennifer Groult* OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com

We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler MVP i CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman & CEO William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €80 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (OJD 2014). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: juillet 2015. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

where PariS supports:

PUBLISHER and General manager

Pascal Tranchant

Editor

Sandra Iskander

DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang

Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

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July

HOT DATES Discover the best of July in Paris

wednesday

Beachy Paris

With the warmer weather here, the French capital has transformed itself again into a beachside haven for locals and visitors to escape the sweltering heat for the annual Paris Plages event. Along the Seine, the banks have become a beach resort complete with sand, palm trees and water activities. The children will love all the activities organised for them while adults can take in the live entertainment taking place in the evenings, which include street performances. Casual restaurants are also found along the “beach” as well as vendors selling icecream to help you cool down.

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PARIS THIS MONTH

SUNDAY

And the winner is... Be part of the international excitement and head to the Champs-Elysées to watch the last leg of the famous Tour de France as the cyclists race to the finish line.

Paris Plage © Amelie Dupont; Tour de France © Bernard Papon-L’Equipe; Rihanna wearing Dior © Jon Kopaloff; Longines © Georgina Bloomberg

SUNDAY

Fashion Week Starting today, and through to the 10th of July, the fashion capital transforms into a fabulous catwalk, with the Autumn/ Winter 2015/2016 Haute Couture collections taking centre stage. This week promises to be a great date for fashionistas and you will be bound to spot a celeb or two round about town.

FRIDAY

Longines Paris Eiffel Jumping Starting today and through to the 5th of July, the Champ de Mars Esplanade is welcoming the second edition of the Longines Paris Eiffel Jumping. The prestigious equestrian show is open to the public to watch and is the chance to see the world’s best 40 riders compete. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11

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PARIS THIS MONTH

sunday

Fun Fair Take the kids and enjoy a fun family day out complete with rollercoaster rides and fairy floss at the Jardin des Tuileries fun fair.

Tuesday

14 Wednesday

Bastille Day

Don’t miss the spectacular fireworks to celebrate the French national holiday. Ask your concierge to book you a table at Monsieur Bleu or perhaps Maison Blanche for the ultimate dinner with a view, with both restaurants boasting views of the Eiffel Tower.

wednesday

Take in a show or two during Paris Quartier d’Eté, the international summer festival that is filled with song, music, art and dance by artists from all over the world. Events, performances and shows are held at a host of venues throughout the city and nearby suburbs through to the 31st of July. Visit www.quartierdete.com for more information and tickets or call 01 44 94 98 02.

Fun fair © Thinkstock; Bastille Day © Paris Tourist Office - David Lefranc

Summer Festival

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Kings and Castles By Patricia Valicenti

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Château of Vincennes. Photo © Philippe Berthé – Centre des monuments nationaux; The Château of Chantilly © Otte

here game-rich forests flourished, so did castles in and around Paris, for they played an important role in the great royal past time of hunting. The great castles of the region are where kings of France were born and baptised while royal weddings were celebrated in their chapels and the intrigue of the court was played out in their spacious rooms and galleries. Among the castles found just outside the eastern edge of Paris is the fortress castle of Vincennes. Constructed in the 14th century by Charles V, the castle of Vincennes along with the Louvre is one of the most important in French history and also one of the largest and best preserved in Europe. The future Charles V was born at Vincennes in 1338 and he was the king who would recapture almost all of the territories relinquished to the English in 1360 and defeated Charles the Bad in 1364. Cardinal Mazarin, the leading minister during the regency of Anne of Austria commissioned major work at the castle where he set up residence with the young Louis XIV and the court in 1659. The Cardinal would die there in 1661. The castle, too, has held some illustrious prisoners, notably Louis II of Bourbon, the Prince of Condé whom Mazarin had imprisoned there in 1650. Nicolas Fouquet, known for having had built the marvellous castle and grounds of Vaux Le Vicomte was also held at Vincennes. A magnificent keep and a holy chapel sacred to the monarchs of France are among the architectural treasures that can be visited at Vincennes. The donjon rises a startling 50 metres above the courtyard and is the highest remaining construction of its type in Europe. The massive square tower of six vaulted levels and with its walls that are over three metres thick has turrets flanking each corner. The magnificent chapel was founded in 1379 with construction beginning just before the death of Charles V in 1380 although its wasn’t inaugurated until 1552, and since 1853 it has been listed as an historical monument. Within the context of Monuments in Music organised by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, Doulce Mémoire, a Renaissance ensemble, will perform a concert on July 21st in the castle’s

Opposite page: Château of Vincennes Below: The Château of Chantilly

chapel at 8:30pm. Meanwhile, some 15 kilometres west of Paris sits the castle of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, which was also once a royal residence. Louis VI, also known as Louis the Fat, in 1124, built the first fortified castle there then Saint Louis, Louis IX, had a chapel built there. It was in that chapel that Louis XII married his daughter Claude de France to the Duke of Angoulême in 1514, and the next year that duke would become Francis I, one of the country’s greatest monarchs. It was also here that the Sun King, Louis XIV, was born, baptised and raised. He would remain attached to the castle throughout his reign, sojourned there with regularity and held royal fêtes attended by, among others, Malherbe and Molière. Restored in 1862 it became, on order of Napoleon III, the Museum for National Antiquities, which in turn in 2005, became the National Archaeology Museum housing one of the world’s most extensive archaeological collections. The rooms of the ancient castle were transformed into exhibition rooms displaying some 29,000 objects. The castle’s grounds, great for a picnic, are extensive and border on a 3500-hectare forest. Among the sites within the grounds of the park one finds lovely pavilions, an English garden and terraces including the Grande Terrasse considered to

be one of royal gardener André Le Nôtre’s masterpieces. About an hour north of Paris the department of Oise, named for the majestic river that winds through it, is home to an exceptional architectural and cultural heritage. No less than 300 castles were built in the region between the reigns of Francis I and Napoleon III. Located in one of the largest forests in the Paris region, the Domain of Chantilly is home to the private apartments of the Duke and Duchess of Aumale, the second largest collection of old paintings in France, after the Louvre, the largest horse stables in Europe and one of the most prestigious libraries in the world, which includes the celebrated Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry, regarded as the most important illuminated Gothic manuscript of the 15th century. Chantilly is the masterpiece of a man, Henri of Orléans, the Duke d’Aumale who left the estate to the French Academy. Collector, aristocrat, an officer in the French army, bibliophile and a man of taste, the prince was the fifth son of the French king, Louis Philippe. He would inherit the domain of Chantilly from his godfather Louis-Henri Bourbon, the prince of Condé. Among the 830 paintings conserved at Chantilly are about 100 Italian paintings including masterpieces by Filippino Lippi and Raphaël. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 15

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Kings and Castles

The castle’s apartments are a reflection of the French decorative arts of the 17th to the 19th centuries and are located in the oldest part of the castle, known as the little castle that was built in the Renaissance by Jean Bullant for Anne de Montmorency, a Constable of France in the 16th century and who had the castle constructed. Among the most amusing rooms inside is the Grande Singerie decorated with whimsical, rich illustrations notably, monkeys, and by the windows in the Grande Singerie, humans are depicted serving monkeys. The décor reflects the 18th century taste for the exotic, fashionable during the Regency and at the beginning of the reign of Louis XV. The horse, too, is central to life at Chantilly, both in the past and today. The domain’s Horse Museum is filled with over two hundred objects recounting the importance of the horse to mankind from Antiquity to the present. Paintings, works of art, equestrian equipment and ample audio-visual displays take the visitor into the world of the horse with two rooms devoted to a fine ensemble of carousel horses. The domain also has a Living Horse museum, which presents equestrian shows and takes the

visitor into the domain’s prestigious stables. One of the highlights of Chantilly is the domain’s superb gardens, with French gardens designed by André Le Nôtre who would design the gardens at Versailles, although those of Chantilly remained his favourites. They are filled with fountains and extensive water basins and house the Grand Canal, which at 2.5 metres long is 600 metres longer than the one at Versailles. There is also a bucolic English garden, a hamlet and a large market garden. Louis Henri de Bourbon Condé, one of the domain’s illustrious residents loved flowers and a show entitled Carnations, Tulips, Anemones, The Flowers of the Grand Condé is taking place in the library through to August 12th and explores his love of flowers through documents and archives. An exhibition of drawings and engravings devoted to the fabulous costumes of the courts of Lorraine and France is being played out through August 13th at the domain as well. Dating from the Middle Ages, the Imperial Palace of Compiègne’s origins regally mingle with those of the French monarchy. However, it was work that was begun in 1751 under the

reign of Louis XV according to plans drawn up by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, which would give the castle its present appearance. Here would take place the celebrated Compiègnes, visits by the court to the Imperial residence for a month or a month and a half at a time in the autumn, starting in 1856. They were organised by Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie each autumn when 100 guests were invited for a week-long stay with the invitees receiving a letter of invitation and arriving on board a special train and they would each be lodged in an apartment in the palace. Today, the castle is fittingly home to a museum dedicated to the Second Empire and the castle also houses a Cars and Tourism National Museum showcasing a significant collection of animaldrawn vehicles and automobiles from the earliest times to the First World War. Nearly all of France’s sovereigns from Clovis to Napoleon III sojourned in Compiègne, a residence on the edge of one of the most beautiful forests in France. The four royal families of France that succeeded one another, the Merovingians, the Carolingians, the Capetians and the Bourbons, built successive residences

Château of Pierrefonds © 4vents – Centre des monuments nationaux

Château of Pierrefonds

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The bell tower at Saint-Germain-en-Laye © MAN - Francis Roche; The bedroom of the Empress. Musées et domaine nationaux du Palais de Compiègne © M.Poirier; The Château of Chantilly © Jean-Louis Aubert

The bell tower at Saint-Germain-en-Laye

The bedroom of the Empress at the Palace of Compiègne

The Château of Chantilly

there. Louis XIV enjoyed no less than 75 stays there but it was Napoleon III that would turn it into one of his favourite places. An exhibition devoted to Napoleon I and the role the empire played in the arts is currently being played out until July 27th. Meanwhile, near the city of Compiègne, nestled in the vast forest of Compiègne, the fairy-tale like castle of Pierrefonds emerges in the town of the same name. Built in the 15th century by Louis I of Orléans, then dismantled in the 17th century, it was restored and renovated in the 19th century by the architect Viollet-le-Duc, it is an extraordinary and enchanting voyage into the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. With its keep, drawbridge and watchtowers, the castle retains all of the defence systems of a fortress. Winding staircases, mouldings of animals from a fantastic bestiary and vast galleries form the perfect setting for princesses, knights or even a dragon. Within are beautifully decorated Imperial apartments that Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie particularly enjoyed. Currently the Centres des Monuments Nationaux, which manages the site, is presenting a delightful exhibition revolving around an

ensemble of theatrical costumes further bringing to life ages of yore. In a show entitled Armour, Hennins and Crinolines, Stage Costumes, the Second Empire and the Middle Ages are brought together in this castle here where Napoleon III, the Empress Eugénie and their guests would come in autumn to enjoy theatre. Some 30 stage costumes and accessories are being showcased on decorated platforms in keeping with the 19th century theatrical function of the castle. The show offers a glimpse into the hennin, the cone-shaped headdress worn by European noblewomen in the late Middle Ages. The pieces in the show are on loan from some of France’s most prestigious institutions like the National Opera of Paris, the Capitole Theatre of Toulouse and the National Opera of Bordeaux. The exhibition takes the visitor into the two spacious rooms of the castle’s keep. It is a castle that can be enjoyed from top to bottom, notably with an exciting walk around the parapets. Meanwhile, below in the vast vaulted cellars an extraordinary collection of some 100 funerary statues representing the kings, queens and princes of France from the Middle Ages to the 17th century can be viewed in the Galerie des Gisants.

Château de Vincennes Avenue de Paris, 94300 Vincennes, 01 48 08 31 20 Musée d’Archéologie Nationale et Domaine National de Saint-Germain-enLaye Place Charles de Gaulle, 78100 SaintGermain-en-Laye, 01 39 10 13 00 Château et Domaine de Chantilly 60631 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80 Palais Impérial de Compiègne Place du Général de Gaulle, 60200 Compiègne, 03 44 38 47 00 Château de Pierrefonds Rue Viollet-le-Duc, 60305 Pierrefonds, 03 44 42 72 72 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 17

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Exhibitions

Art Around Town

By Patricia Valicenti and Sandra Iskander

Above Left: La Forge de Vulcain; Marguerite de la nuit, Robe

he city’s cultural offerings this month are, as usual, rich and diverse and offer a wonderful opportunity to visit the neighbourhoods adjacent to the exhibition venues. Among the major exhibitions on in town is the show devoted to Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais and on another fashion is art note, the Jeanne Lanvin retrospective is in full swing at the Palais Galliera. Meanwhile, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France is putting on a major show devoted to Edith Piaf while an exceptional exhibition at the Grand Palais brings together the great works of Diego Velázquez.

A VISIT WITH VELAZQUEZ The intriguing, diverse and splendid works of Diego Velázquez unfold in an exceptional exhibition devoted to the Spanish master underway at the Grand Palais through to the 13th of July. Born in Seville in Andalusia in 1599, Velázquez is regarded as one of the most important figures in the history of art.

Edouard Manet called him “The painter of painters”. He was the leader of the Spanish school, the official artist to King Philip IV at a time when Spain dominated the world and a contemporary of van Dyck and Bernini. Although one of the world’s most famous artists, this is the first monographic exhibition devoted to him in France. The rarity of his paintings, just a little more than a hundred, and their natural concentration in the Prado Museum in Madrid have made it difficult to organise a full retrospective. The exceptional show, in which 57 works by Velázquez are presented, in Paris came into being through the efforts of the Louvre and the Grand Palais in collaboration with the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna and with generous support provided by the Prado. Among the exceptional loans is the Portrait of Pope Innocent X on loan from the Galleria Doria Pamphilj in Rome, regarded as a universal icon of art history. Clemenceau entrance, 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17

THE LANVIN RETROSPECTIVE Among the superb exhibitions being played out in town is the retrospective devoted to Jeanne Lanvin at the Palais Galliera, the city’s fashion museum housed in a Renaissanceinspired palace. Working in close collaboration with Alber Elbaz, the artistic director of Lanvin, the museum is honouring the oldest French fashion house that is still in business. This first Parisian exhibition devoted to Jeanne Lanvin features over one hundred models from the collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage. It all began back in 1885 when Jeanne Lanvin, one of 11 children, began her career as a milliner. She opened her first shop in 1889 and gave birth to her daughter Marguerite in 1897 who became her primary source of inspiration. She would create children’s clothes and in 1909 joined the designer’s union entering into the closed world of French fashion houses. Jeanne Lanvin used travel diaries, ethnic fabrics, and a vast library of art books in the creation of her fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours and the dresses, outfits

Diego Velázquez, La Forge de Vulcain, vers 1630, Madrid, Museo Nacional des Prado © Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado; Marguerite de la nuit, robe, été 1929 Collection Palais Galliera © Katerina Jebb 2014

By Patricia Valicenti

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Raymond Voinquel, Edith Piaf, 1947 © Ministère de la Culture - Médiathèque du Patrimoine, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Raymond Voinquel; Paolo Roversi, Kristen McMenamy, rue de la Goutte d’Or, Paris, 1994, Collection French Cancan, Prêt-à-porter Femme, automne-hiver 1991-1992 © Paolo Roversi; Jean Paul Gaultier, Made in Mode © Jean-Paul Goude

Above Left: Edith Piaf; Collection French Cancan, Jean Paul Gaultier; Below Right: Jean Paul Gaultier

and accessories on display remain fresh and pertinent today. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01 56 52 86 00

REMEMBERING PIAF To mark the 100th anniversary of the birth of Edith Piaf, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (France’s national library), is hosting a major exhibition devoted to the celebrated French singer, bringing to life the woman behind one of the greatest voices of the 20th century. Hundreds of exceptional documents in sound, images and texts evoke the destiny of the street singer who would become an icon of the people and an international star. The objects, including her famous black dress, recordings, documents and mementoes on display come largely from the rich collection of the BnF, which has remarkable reserves devoted to mainstream culture. These objects are complemented by documents on loan from France’s national audiovisual institute and the Association of the Friends of Edith Piaf. The show is organised around four themes

exploring the different facets of the singer: the woman of the people, the singer, the woman in love and the legend. The show can be visited with an audio guide that includes 50 songs performed by Piaf and other singers. Grande Galerie BnF/François-Mitterrand Quai François-Mauriac (13th), 01 53 79 59 59

staying power in the very competitive world of fashion. For fans of both fashion and the arts, this is a must-see exhibition. 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17

FASHION BY GAULTIER Walk through the fashionable career of iconic French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais where a retrospective of the native Parisian designer’s works is being shown through to the 3rd of August. One of the world’s most famous designers and most daring, he has dressed the world’s pop princesses, Kylie Minogue and Madonna, in his iconic designs and has marked the fashion world with his avant-garde designs. The exhibition showcases 175 haute couture and ready-to-wear outfits designed between 1976 and 2015, demonstrating Gaultier’s extraordinary talents, relevance and his w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 19

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The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

The new Richard Mille Boutique

Photo ÂŠ Jerome Bryon

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SHOPPING

Accessories

Paris Welcomes Mulberry Rue Saint-Honoré has just become the new home of the Mulberry flagship boutique in the French capital. In the welcoming space, the British house’s ready-towear and accessories collections come alive around the contemporary décor created by British designers Lee Broom and Genevieve Bennett. Inspired by the English countryside, particularly Somerset, where Mulberry’s ateliers are located, the boutique features elegant nods to the house’s heritage including the bespoke leather wall panels designed by Bennett, which showcase a design inspired by a medieval floral motif, found carved into stonework in Somerset’s Wells Cathedral. The boutique also features a Monogramming Bar where clients are invited to personalise their leather goods with their initials or even their zodiac sign. Mulberry Boutique 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 60 00 64

Richard Mille © Jerome Bryon; agnès.b © Leonard Bourgois Beaulieu; Mulberry © Kristen Pelou

For agnès Jewellery designer Jonas Bowman has created an exclusive jewellery collection for French fashion brand agnès b. that encompasses the spirit of both houses. The Charleston Femme pour agnès b. collection features 1920’s-inspired pieces with strong art deco forms. Designed and made in Jonas Bowman’s atelier in Paris, the silver plated collection includes rings, cuff bracelets, earrings and necklaces. Available at all agnès b. boutiques including 6 rue du Vieux Colombier (6th), 01 44 39 02 60

Mille on Matignon Richard Mille has recently moved into a larger space and the new premises befit the watchmaker perfectly. The flagship boutique, located on the elite Avenue Matignon, is surrounded by art galleries and high-end boutiques, and offers an elegant shopping experience for watch aficionados. Sprawled over two floors, the new boutique features private seating areas, a watchmaker’s workspace and a VIP lounge complete with a private wine cellar and cigar bar. Inspired by the house’s essence in design, the boutique offers a contemporary setting where clients can discover the brand’s watches, which range from sports watches to high performance timepieces as well as the newly launched collection for ladies. Clients can also admire the limited edition timepieces as well as unique pieces that are showcased in the luxurious boutique. Richard Mille Boutique 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01 40 15 10 00 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 21

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PERFECTLY Piaget A

This summer the star extraordinaire is the Possession Collection set in an enchanting merry-go-round of jewellery boxes designed

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by Soline d’Aboville. As the carousel comes to life, spectators discover the new campaign, “Possession. Turn and the world is yours.” Inside the elegant boutique the atmosphere celebrates the hand of man as no less than 20 different crafts and trades were called upon to create the precious interior. Oak parquet flooring and wainscoting meet up with elegant, discrete furnishings. Here are the chests with gilded gold leaf while lamps crafted in Murano diffuse refined lighting. A brass chandelier is an invitation to the first floor -- reached by a transparent lift – where a Japanese-style screen with delicate floral patterns leads you to the space devoted to fine watches while an icon display window all dressed in gold attracks you to the high jewellery collections.

The Piaget Altiplano 38mm 900P watch

Arranged as rooms in a private home where ten hosts, one of them a master watchmaker present all the time, welcome their guests, the store presents the realm of Piaget. The fine watchmaking area is focussed on the Maison’s Altiplano timepiece: discretion, absolute elegance and total precision. Here one can

n elegant, convivial and contemporary experience awaits you in Piaget’s new flagship store on the famous Rue de la Paix. The high watchmaking and jewellery collections of the Maison are showcased in these new settings, exhibiting the incredible know-how and fine techniques of its craftsmen. The 7 Paix, as it is known, reveals the creativity embodied by the world of Piaget. The address by itself is a mythical one as it is where the famed French fashion designer Charles-Frédéric Worth opened his luxurious salons in 1858. Today, Piaget’s unique heritage with its precious watches and jewellery animates this luxurious space of 500 square metres. The façade of the boutique is attractive, with its deep black and grey livery punctuated with gold. Through the two shop windows, one can revel in the show staged in the “Vitrine Extraordinaire” and enlivened by Piaget’s creations.

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marvel at the beauty of the manufacture’s calibres. Over the past years, twenty-five extremely flat movements have emerged with among them, the stunning tourbillion, the intriguing moon phase and the fascinating skeleton. The guest can also admire them in a film, in the comfort of an armchair unless he prefers to choose to thumb through a book on fine watches, taken from the house library or handle the tools used by fine watchmakers.

“The 7 Paix brings to life the ensemble of the know-how of Piaget. It brings almost into reach the professions of fine watchmaking and High Jewellery making.”

The High jewellery universe at 7 Paix celebrates the art of the house’s master jewellers. The gold mosaic in the icon window was made entirely by hand. The magical jewellery display cases displaying the sumptuous collections glimmer in full colour with emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, tourmalines and garnets while turquoise, opal, jade, onyx and lapis-lazuli are all part of the show.

SHOPPING

Advertorial

Necklace in 18-carat white gold set with tourmalines, emeralds and diamonds from Piaget’s Mediterranean Garden Collection

Piaget’s new setting is a continual journey. A VIP room opens up onto a charming landscaped garden with a Japanese maple tree, jasmines and osmanthus plants, a splendid magnolia tree surrounded by ferns, tall flowering grasses, forget-me-nots and hellebores providing the perfect place for Piaget’s famous and much sought-after soirées. Moreover a world of enchantment unfolds on the first floor where you can approach the “Mariage” corner, dedicated to marriage, Here the Piaget’s rings and pieces of jewelry, Passion, are found along with a tempting Bridal Bar presenting a procession of wedding bands. Further along the gallery running alongside the windows looking out over the Rue de la Paix, a reception space has been created, a 21st century Piaget club with bookshelves, sofas and mobile displays where temporary exhibitions, cocktail parties for clients and private dinners can take place. “The 7 Paix brings to life all the facets of Piaget’s know-how. It sets within reach the crafts and art of fine watchmaking and High Jewellery making. This to us is most important because we are one of the very few Houses to have integrated so many in-house crafts. This place was born out of an ambition: to offer each customer a unique experience, his or her own”, says Olivier Perruchot, Piaget France and United Kingdom Managing Director. 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 62 37 00

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Ring in 18-carat pink gold set with tourmalines and diamonds from Piaget’s Mediterranean Garden Collection

Bracelet in 18-carat pink gold set with diamonds from Piaget’s Mediterranean Garden Collection

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SHOPPING Fashion

Being

BRIGITTE Photographer: Luigi Di Donna Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Hair Stylist and Make-Up Artist: Julie Mandin Model: Viktoria Babskaya from Mademoiselle Post Production: Marc Martinon Fashion & Production Editor: Sandra Iskander Location: Restaurant Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ile

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Mac Douglas leather shorts (www.macdouglas.fr) Georges Rech nautical top (www.georges-rech.com) Azzedine Alaïa python leather belt (www.alaia.fr) Repetto “Brigitte” ballerina shoes (www.repetto.com) Maison Michel hat (www.michel-paris.com) Fendi sunglasses (Available at GrandOptical)

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Azzedine Alaïa lace top (www.alaia.fr) Johanna Braitbart denim turban (Available at Franck et Fils)

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Azzedine Alaïa python leather shorts, lace shirt and shoes (www.alaia.fr) Hermès printed silk scarf (www.hermes.com) D nu D crocheted bikini top (www.d-nu-d.com) Gucci yello gold earrings (www.gucci.com)

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Jean Paul Gaultier dress (www.jeanpaulgaultier.com) AimĂŠe Aimer yellow gold and diamond necklace (www.aimee-aimer.com) Jimmy Choo shoes (www.jimmychoo.com)

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Azzedine Ala誰a skirt, top, shoes and clutch bag (www.alaia.fr)

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Louis Vuitton crocheted dress, leather booties and white Pop Chips earrings (www.louisvuitton.com)

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Acquaverde denim shorts (www.acquaverde.com) Brigitte Bardot gingham print bikini top (www.brigitte-bardot.fr) Azzedine Alaïa leather belt (www.alaia.fr) Tod’s denim jacket (www.tods.com) Galeries Lafayette straw bag (www.galerieslafayette.com) Hermès printed silk scarf (www.hermes.com) Sunday Somewhere sunglasses (www.sundaysomewhere.com)

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Shopping Watches

Pretty Pastels One of the highlights in the world of watches this year is Chanel’s new pastel take on its iconic J12 watch, which was first launched in 2000. The case and bracelet of the watch are fashioned in hi-tech ceramic, a material that is highly resistant to scratching, while its rotating bezel is showcasing for the first time three different colours: soft blue, soft mint and soft pink, stunningly setting off the impeccable white of the watch and perfect for wearing in the summer sun. The 38mm model brought out in a limited edition of 1200 for each version features a bracelet that is set off with a steel triple folding buckle. The watch enjoys a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to a depth of 200 metres. A 33 mm model is also available. - P.V. Chanel Boutique 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 50 66 00

Patek Philippe, the family-owned watchmaking house, created a collection of limited edition timepieces to pay tribute to its 175th anniversary last year. The aptly named Grandmaster Chime, a highly complex, elaborate wristwatch is a stand out in the ensemble. It is a handsome double-face watch that can be worn with either of its dials facing up. One is devoted to time and the chiming of the watch, the other is dedicated to a full instantaneous perpetual calendar while the current time and date, the information for which a watch is usually consulted, appears on both dials. The watch has been brought out in a limited edition of seven pieces with its 18-carat rose gold case playing host to no less than 20 complications including the grande and petite sonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, a second time zone and two patented global firsts in the domain of chiming watches: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. – P.V. Patek Philippe Boutique 10 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 44 17 77 Also available at Wempe 16 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 60 21 77

Chanel Watches © courtesy of Chanel

A Master of Chime

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Shopping

Jewellery

Shine in Swarovski Atelier Swarovski’s latest collection, Core Collection, celebrates the Austrian house’s 120-year stewardship of sustainable water sources by naming the three lines that make up the collection after three European rivers, Kalix, Moselle and Neva. The Kalix pieces make up the rock-inspired line, complete with crystal spikes detailing the cuff bracelets, earrings and double rings. The Moselle line features more rounded pieces with pebble-shaped forms encrusted with crystals, while the Neva line features a choker necklace, bracelet, earrings and ring all designed with pieces of crystal resembling pieces of ice nestled in carved gunmetal, worn recently by British actress Sienna Miller during the Cannes Film Festival, both at the Hollywood Foreign Press Association private dinner co-hosted by Swarovski and The Hollywood Reporter, and at the See Of Trees premiere. Swarovski Boutique 146 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 61 13 80

Gong Li’s Best Friend Chinese actress Gong Li, one of Piaget’s International Ambassadors and the star of Coming Home, recently visited the French capital and she spoke to Where about diamonds and finding inspiration in the different forms of art around her. Discovering jewellery house Piaget ten years ago in Cannes, she remembers how “beautiful the watches, worn by other stars, were. I remember the watches being very delicate and beautiful.” Years later, the talented actress is now an ambassador to the house and says she has “a lot of respect and admiration for Mr Piaget’s work, his designs, in particular the Piaget Rose collection. For me that collection is very feminine. I am fascinated by the quality of the craftsmanship required to create such pieces.”

Swarovski photos © Atelier Swarovski

Agreeing that diamonds are a girl’s best friend, especially Piaget diamonds, Gong Li is regularly pictured on the red carpet wearing precious Piaget creations, including a pair of exquisite earrings from the Extremely Piaget collection that she wore at the Met Ball. When in Paris, and when she isn’t beautifully showcasing the dazzling jewels, Li likes to go shopping at Galeries Lafayette and more than anything she likes window-shopping. “I like window shopping because as opposed to China I feel there is a real savoir-faire when it comes to designing and creating boutique windows, there is real creativity. I also like going to museums, the Louvre for example. It enriches me even when I am researching a role, the last time I was there I spent 5 hours taking in the paintings and the sculptures because even a look captured in a work can inspire and help mould a character I am preparing for.” Discover the new fine jewellery collection at Piaget’s recently opened boutique on Rue de la Paix. Piaget Boutique, 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 62 37 00 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 31

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SHOPPING For Him

Chic Cremieux The French ready-to-wear upscale brand Daniel Cremieux’s spring/summer 2015 collection encompasses the chic gentleman’s taste. Elegant and preppy, the warm weather collection features linen and chino pants, classic polo shirts and casual cotton shirts. The pieces can be discovered alongside the brand’s other lines, which include the Silver Label and the line of made in France specs, at the house’s flagship boutique in the fashionable Saint-Germain neighbourhood. Daniel Cremieux Boutique 185 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 42 22 01 45

Light Up S.T. Dupont has just introduced the slimmest luxury lighter in the world. The Slim 7 weighs only 45 grams and is so slim it can seamlessly slip into your pocket and into a lady’s clutch bag with ease. The Slim 7 is available in 5 chic colours including black, silver and gold. S.T. Dupont Boutique 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 61 08 39

Summer means cooling down by the pool and taking holiday photos and Sony now offers the best accessory to do just that with the Xperia M4 Aqua phone. The waterproof phone, which features a 5MP front camera, will let you capture all the poolside action, splashes and all, without the water risking the life of your phone. Available at Fnac stores around the city.

Daniel Cremieux Boutique © Patrick@curtet.com

Waterproof Photos

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Shopping

Accessories

Bespoke by Kors Michael Kors’s It bag, Miranda, can now be given your personal touch with the all-new Miranda Bespoke service. Available by appointment only, the bespoke service allows clients to personalise their tote bag to perfectly embody their style. Ladies are invited to choose from a large selection of colours, leathers and finishing details, creating their unique It bag from scratch. Ooze sophistication and glamour by perhaps opting for a black crocodile tote or maybe let your colourful personality come through with an azure blue version. Michael Kors Boutique 279 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 70 36 44 40

Sweet Frames Francis Klein, the family-run French company that specialises in handmade glasses, offers a wide selection of fabulous frames for every fashion style. The house’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection is a feast for the eyes with French pastries inspiring the line of gourmet specs. Choose the Ganache pair, a caramel-coloured pair with specs of gold flakes, or for a more daring look opt for the Gaufre, a cherry red pair with swirling detailing. Francis Klein Boutique 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 44 07 04 28

Personalised Diamonds Diamonds are a girl’s best friend and Galeries du Diamant’s flagship store in the heart of the French capital is where clients are invited to discover the finest friends in an art gallery setting. The first of its kind in Paris, the Galeries du Diamant boutique showcases the dazzling diamonds and with the help of the expert diamond merchants on-hand clients can enjoy the luxury of taking part in the design process and personalising their rings. This unique experience creates a privileged collaboration between the artisan and the client, who work closely together through the three steps of designing a ring, which begins by choosing the diamond followed by the ring design before finally choosing the setting. This bespoke service is an exceptional experience, which can only add to an already luxurious moment of picking out a ring. Galeries du Diamant Boutique 33 rue de Mogador (9th), 01 84 88 77 88 34 WHERE Pa r is I j u ly 2015

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SHOPPING

Summer Must-Haves

Surf’s Up Sportswear brand Hoalen, which means sea salt in the Old Breton language, recently opened their first Ocean Store in Paris. The store, located in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood, is three floors full of ready-to-wear items for ladies, gentlemen and even children. Specialising in items for clients who the brand likes to refer to as “Saltwater Players”, Hoalen’s collections are shore-inspired and range from basic polo shirts to resistant jackets. Tailoring to water sports including sailing and surfing, the Ocean Store also stocks Mitsven and Almond surfboards. Hoalen Ocean Store 17 rue des Quatre Vents (6th), 01 43 26 05 98

On the Beach Brazilian beachwear brand Frescobol Carioca has collaborated with famous Parisian multi-brand boutique Colette and designed a Frescobol kit, the popular game that originated in Rio de Janeiro on the famous Copacabana beach. The limited edition Frescobol Carioca X Colette kit comes with tennis balls and two rackets that are handmade by local artisans in Brazil, using wood off-cuts from high-end furniture. Available at Colette

Take a Bright Step This season keep up your fitness routine without compromising your fashion sense with Nike’s Roshe Run Multi-Colour sneakers. The tie-dye print with the vibrant bright colours will add character to your step as you powerwalk through the Tuileries or the Luxembourg gardens to walk off your French breakfast of buttery croissants and pains au chocolat. Available at all Foot Locker stores including 45 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 39 09 71 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 35

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SHOPPING Beauty

Mission: Spot Free

A Perfumed Photo Inspired by artwork by different artists, Olfactive Studio’s latest scent, Panorama is a breathtaking view in a bottle. Photographer and former Art Director of Harper’s Bazaar Miguel Sandinha’s Panorama photo is the latest artwork to be reconstructed into a gentleman’s scent by the perfume house. The photo of Los Angeles taken from Sheats House in West Hollywood gives a breath-taking view of the city with lush greenery creating a pathway into the urban jungle and with that inviting image perfumer Clement Gavarry has created a green and raw scent capturing the essence of the urban jungle taken in from the photo. Notes of spicy wasabi, lemon and bergamot offset the sweetness of the vanilla and patchouli notes, creating a surprisingly sweet and spicy contrast that will awaken the senses. Available at Jovoy

The latest Clarins skincare product promises to reduce age spots and increase illumination. The overproduction of the melanin pigment on the areas of the body that are exposed more to the environment causes the production of the spots. Containing acerola Barbados cherries, Ginkgo biloba and tamarind fruit acid, which helps in eliminating dead skin cells, the Mission Perfection Serum is the answer to this problem. The muchneeded product is for anyone who has been looking to reduce and avoid darker spots, and with its voluptuous texture, it can also be used on the hands and the décolleté, protecting the body’s exposed areas. The Mission Perfection Serum can be used on its own, though if you feel your skin needs more hydration you can follow up with your usual day and night cream. Clarins Boutique 10 rue de Babylone (7th), 01 45 44 06 19

Starry Eyes

Dior Cosmetics Boutique 368 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 20 99 56

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The face of Dior’s J’Adore perfume Charlize Theron was one of the many Hollywood stars in Cannes for the Film Festival and the beautiful actress owed her glowing look to Dior. Highlight your eyes like Charlize with Dior’s Amber Design Nº 708 eyeshadow palette with flickering gold and brown shimmer and play up your regard like the star with the Diorshow mascara in Over Noir Nº 090. Enriched with unique microfibers the mascara brush fits between the lashes to give them more volume without any clumping, letting you get red carpet ready without any fuss.

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The world of Beretta in the heart of Paris

Beretta Gallery 57, Rue Pierre Charron (Crossing Champs-Élysées) Pure Italian lifestyle celebrating the outdoor. PARIS - BUENOS AIRES - DALLAS - LONDON - MILANO - NEW YORK

beretta.com

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estore.beretta.com

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Audrey wears Claudie Pierlot trousers, 2014 recommended price €185, La Vallée Village price €111 Claudie Pierlot shirt, 2014 recommended price €145, La Vallée Village price €84 Ted Baker clutch bag, 2014 recommended price €125, La Vallée Village price €75 Yuwei wears Ted Baker dress, 2014 recommended price €200, La Vallée Village price €124

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SHOPPING Advertorial

F FASHION FULL OF FLAVOUR LA VALLÉE VILLAGE

Sofya wears Paule Ka skirt, 2014 recommended price €570, La Vallée Village price €375 Paule Ka shirt, 2014 recommended price €220, La Vallée Village price €145 Paule Ka clutch bag, 2014 recommended price €380, La Vallée Village price €250 Diane von Furstenberg sunglasses, 2012 recommended price €119, La Vallée Village price €71

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esigned like a charming French Village, La Vallée Village offers a great day-out just 35 minutes East of Paris, a perfect shopping destination as well as an outstanding experience to savour. The Village is an exceptional place to find, at reduced prices, unique and sought-after pieces from an array of leading international luxury brands. Where shopping spree comes true, La Vallée Village welcomed three influential bloggers to spend a day and experience first-hand what this shopping haven has to offer. Audrey, Yuwei and Sofya, fashion savvy and with different styles, were invited to discover more than 110 luxury boutiques to treat themselves to a fabulous new wardrobe. On arrival they were treated to a suite of luxury services to take advantage of, making their shopping experience truly effortless, including hands-free shopping, free Village Wi-Fi, multilingual hosts and many more. Offering exceptional savings on world’s leading brands such as Tod’s, Vanessa Bruno, Kenzo and Marni, our three bloggers loved their experience in this French hub for art, fashion and creativity that is La Vallée Village.

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CH Carolina Herrera trousers, 2014 recommended price €195, La Vallée Village price €107 Claudie Pierlot shirt, 2014 recommended price €155, La Vallée Village price €99 Diane von Furstenberg sunglasses, 2012 recommended price €119, La Vallée Village price €71 Ted Baker bag, 2014 recommended price €200, La Vallée Village price €124 Tissot watch, 2014 recommended price €304, La Vallée Village price €227

“This is my first time at La Vallée Village and I’m definitely coming back!” Audrey – befrassy.com

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Diane von Furstenberg shirt, 2014 recommended price €255, La Vallée Village price €153 Diane von Furstenberg skirt, 2014 recommended price €360, La Vallée Village price €216 Claudie Pierlot shoes, 2014 recommended price €265, La Vallée Village price €159 Claudie Pierlot bag, 2014 recommended price €222, La Vallée Village price €159

“La Vallée Village gives me the chance to rediscover the collections from my favourite designers at affordable prices.” Sofya – lacouleurdumoment.com

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Paul & Joe top, 2014 recommended price €225, La Vallée Village price €147 ba&sh skirt, 2013 recommended price €450, La Vallée Village price €160 Sandro jacket, 2014 recommended price €495, La Vallée Village price €297 Diane von Furstenberg bag, 2014 recommended price €300, La Vallée Village price €180 Hour Passion watch, 2014 recommended price €335, La Vallée Village price €220

“La Vallée Village is the perfect place for a successful shopping spree.” Yuwei – yuyufashionbook.com

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Shopping Advertorial

La Vallée Village – The Perfect Treat Audrey wears Sandro skirt, 2014 recommended price €195, La Vallée Village price €117 Diane von Furstenberg shirt, 2014 recommended price €280, La Vallée Village price €118 Yuwei wears Sandro shorts, 2014 recommended price €165, La Vallée Village price €99 Sandro top, 2014 recommended price €165, La Vallée Village price €99 Sofya wears Sandro skirt, 2014 recommended price €215, La Vallée Village price €129 ba&sh shirt, 2014 recommended price €190, La Vallée Village price €125

With plenty of activities, La Vallée Village is the perfect place to enjoy a summer’s day out with the whole family. Open Monday to Sunday, 10am to 8pm and until 8.30pm from 17 July to 31 August.

Closer than you think How to get to La Vallée Village in as little as 35 minutes from the center of Paris The Shopping Express® is a luxury shuttle bus service from central Paris to La Vallée Village, which collects guests from 3 different departure spots (Place des Pyramides, Etoile/Porte Maillot and Place du Trocadéro) with 6 daily departures. Alternatively, you can also travel by car or by regional train. By car Exit the A4 motorway at junction 12.1 and follow the signs for La Vallée Village Ample free parking. Valet parking on Saturdays and Sundays. By Regional Train RER A4 to Val d’Europe/Serris-Montevrain station 10 minutes’ walk from the station to the Village. Free shuttle every Sunday. To book your ticket, arrange a chauffeur service or to find out more about La Vallée Village and its surrounding attractions visit, LaValleeVillage.com

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shopping shopping Vintage Advertorial Vintage Advertorial

Paris Flea Market Paris Flea Market Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen Clignancourt from location north of Montmartre, this is the or city’s (some claim theits location north of Montmartre, thisflea is the city’s offering (some claim the world’s) largest and most famous market, everything world’s) largest and most famous fleato market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets precious antique jewellery from usedXVI books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put and Louis a series of different markets. be put off by the XVI rowsfurniture, of tacky in stands under the overpass; theDon’t real Flea off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon, 9:30 am-6:30pm. Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon, 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen 142 rue des walk Rosiers, Saint-Ouen (10-minute from Porte de Clignancourt) (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

L’Ibis L’Ibis Rouge Rouge

This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain This beautiful andaoriginal in the couture heart of fashion Saint Germain des Prés offers unique boutique array of vintage and des Prés offers a unique array vintageLanvin, couture and jewellery including pieces byofChanel, YSLfashion and Dior. jewellery pieces by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL and Dior. You will alsoincluding find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and You will also jewellery find a finepieces selection vintage alligator bags and contemporary fromofFrench and foreign designers. contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm. Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th), M° Sèvres-Babylone 35 Blvd Raspail (7th), +33 (0)1 45M° 48Sèvres-Babylone 98 21 +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge

CITIZEN GALLE RY GALLE RY LUXURY OUTLET / VINTAGE LUXURY OUTLET / VINTAGE

Gallery & GalleryStore & Concept Concept Store

Chanel Chanel -- Hermès Hermès -- Saint Saint Laurent Laurent Céline Gucci Prada Balmain Céline - Gucci - Prada - Balmain Balenciaga Balenciaga -- Chloé Chloé -- Fendi Fendi Dolce&Gabbana Dior Louis Dolce&Gabbana - Dior - Louis Vuitton Vuitton

22 RUE DE THORIGNY (ANGLE/CORNER RUE DU ROI DORÉ), PARIS 3RD 22 RUE DE THORIGNY (ANGLE/CORNER RUE DU(LINE ROI DORÉ), PARIS 3RD M° SAINT-SÉBASTIEN - FROISSART 8) M° SAINT-SÉBASTIEN FROISSART (LINE 8) TEL: +33 (0)1 42 78 93 75 TEL: +33 (0)1 42 78 93 75 44 WHERE Pa r i s I J U LY 2015

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Monday : 2 PM to 7 PM Tuesday to Saturday : 11 AM to 7 PM Subway station Passy on Line 6

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Alfred Dunhill - 15 rue de la Paris (2nd), 01.42.61.57.58. M° Opéra Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Misterchrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. M° Opéra Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine S.T. Dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.45.61.08.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th),01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Carita - 11 Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Emmanuel Levain - 4 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.23.39.91. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Jovoy Paris - 4 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.40.20.06.19. M° Tuileries Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V L’Artisan Parfumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. M° Pont Neuf Lancôme - 29 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie M.A.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon

Francis Klein

| Eye Wear

Catimini - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.44.71.06.23.

M° Madeleine Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Kids Around - 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.05.19.50. M° Victor Hugo Miki House - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries Petit Bateau - 116 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.40.74.02.03. M° George V Tartine et Chocolat - 24 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.42.10.68. M° Opéra Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

clothing: Men & WoMen Alain Figaret - 18/20 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.40.06.94.90. M° Madeleine

Anne Fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8th),

01.40.73.78.01. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Banana Republic - 22 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. M° Madeleine Carven - 34 rue Saint Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00. M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Emanuel Berg - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 84 52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Ines de la Fressange - 18 rue Commines (3rd), 01.42.76.90.23. M° Filles du Calvaire Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac

Kenzo - 27 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.61.04.14. M° Madeleine Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Levi’s Store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. M° Georges V Maison Kitsuné - 52 rue de Richelieu (1st) , 01.42.60.34.28. M° Pyramides Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Montagut - 90 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.05.73. M° Concorde Rowena Forrest - 23 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.65.25.46. M° Sèvres-Babylone Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine

eye WeAr Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées

(8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V Italia Independent - 47 rue du Four (6th) , 01.42.22.40.34. M° Saint-Sulpice Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

hoMe decor Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Boutique Talents - 26 ave Niel (17th),

01.44.40.22.80. M° Pereire/Ternes Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde Gien - 18 rue de l’Arcade (8th), 01 42 66 52 32. M° Madeleine Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber

Boggi | Clothing: Men & Women

46 WHERE Pa r i s I J U LY 2015

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shopping

Address Book

Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

Jewellery & watches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier - 7 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01.44.54.03.03. M° Saint-Paul Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bvlgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 21 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.11.17. M° Tuileries Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon, 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu

Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Waskoll - 19 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.98.94. Mº Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

lINGerIe

01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1 ), st

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22.

M° Madeleine Eres - 2 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.47.42.28.82. M° Madeleine La Perla - 20 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde Maison Lejaby - 5 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.65.06.77. M° Concorde

luGGaGe aNd baGs Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach (available at Printemps) - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. M° Havre-Caumartin Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Masha Keja - 10 rue de Jarente (4th), 01.47.45.62.58. M° Saint-Paul Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries

| Jewellery & Watches

multI-braNd boutIques By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° George V

Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th),

shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

A.Testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. M° Concorde

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Fbg Saint-

Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. M° George V Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

vINtaGe Dépôt Vente de Passy - 14 rue de la Tour (16th), 01.45.20.95.21. M° Passy Didier Ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. M° Pyramides L’Ibis Rouge - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. M° Sèvres-Babylone Renaissance - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. M° Rue du Bac

Bernardaud

| Home Decor

w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 47

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LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées-Montaigne

SHOP STOP Arc de Triomphe

AVENUE KLÉBER

U CEA EM AR AV EN U

Kenzo

ERB

•

Leonard • Creed

Scabal

•ORGE V

E GE

NU AVE

•Balenciaga

RUE MA

Emmanuel Levain RUE

DE L

A TR

ÉMO

DOR

By Marie&Gas Bijoux

DU B

OCCA

ALMA MARCEAU

N RIGNA

UE MA

•

Maison Ullens

RUE

RU EJ EA NG OU JO N

• Versace Dior • • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo Caron NUE M • Akris • ON Chanel Givenchy TA • Chanel • IGNE • • Fendi Dinh • Céline Chloé• • Van • Saint Laurent Loewe •• Pucci •• •• Ralph Lauren Dolce&Gabbana Gucci Blumarine LT EVE S.T.Dupont OOS Elie Saab • LIN D.R EJ

RA UE F

OU JO N

VEN

• Marionnaud Paris • Marks&Spencer RU

E DE BER •Zara RI Morgan • M.A.C. • • •Levi’s Elysées Horlogerie • Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

OÉT

•Comptoirs de Paris

•

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver •Adidas • Banana Republic •

Weleda Les Champs d’Or

• AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

ATIG

NON

NFÉRENCE

10 avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 96 06 15 www.espace-weleda.fr

ILLE

Valentino Paul&Joe • AVE • Harry • NUE Pink Giorgio Armani MO Winston • Prada• • NTAIGN • MaxMara Bottega Veneta • E • Giorgio Armani Nina Ricci • • Louis Vuitton

PORT DE LA CO

ESPACE WELEDA A unique moment in a marvellous place. Weleda, the first organic and natural cosmetic brand, invites you to discover its massages and product line in its wellness space. Enter into the peaceful and natural universe of Weleda with its very contemporary design.

Beretta PIE • RRE Ann Tuil • •Tom Ford CHARRO N Zilli • Guy Laroche • Kiton •Smalto RUE • M Wolford Diane Von • ARBE Furstenberg • Balmain Berluti UF • • Karl Lagerfeld• Zadig&Voltaire • • Courrèges RUE

Paule Ka • Sicis •

RBEUF

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

•

ANÇO

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

CEA

R MA

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Armani Collezioni JP Gaultier • GE V • Lacoste • Omega • EOR UE G N Eric Bompard• E AV • Bvlgari Brioni • • Dubail • Longchamp • Zegna Ulysse Nardin • • Waskoll Altan Bottier Christofle • • • Arije Cartier •Givenchy • • Chaumet Kusmi • Tea • Arije

PIER

RE 1 ER DE S

• •

•

IS 1 ER

NUE

4 rue Marbeuf – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 23 39 91 www.emmanuel-levain.com

RUE BALZAC

GEORGE V Louis • Vuitton J.M. Weston

RUE FR

AVE

E AV

EA RC

EMMANUEL LEVAIN

• Swarovski • Bang & Olufsen • GrandOptical • Milady

SHOP STOP

Step into the exceptional world of this house devoted to fine and fragrant scents. The Paris boutique of this brand - founded in Geneva carries perfumes, scented candles and home fragrances designed for well-being and serenity.

•

76 ave des Champs Elysées – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 42 56 18 53 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com

Montblanc

A EDL

Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

• Cartier

FRI

Lancel •

•

The first European Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch collection available in Paris with more than 500 references from their traditional watch collection such as the Le Locle Automatic to the most innovative watches with the T-Touch Expert.

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

D’IÉ

NUE AVE

TISSOT BOUTIQUE

NUE

AVE

AVENUE D’IÉNA

KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

48 WHERE Pa r i s I J U LY 2015

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T I S S OT Q U I C K ST E R L U G A N O. I N T E RC H A N G E A B L E ST R A P S, 3 16 L S TA I N L E S S S T E E L C AS E , S C R AT C H - R E S I STA N T SA P P H I R E CRYSTAL AND WATER RESISTANCE UP TO 10 BAR (10 0 M / 330 FT). I N N OVATO RS BY T R A D I T I O N .

TISSOT.CH

BOUTIQUES TISSOT 76, AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES – 75 0 08 PARIS LES 4 TEMPS, NIVEAU 2 – 92 092 PARIS LA DÉFENSE ATELIER HORLOGER TISSOT, GALERIE DES ARCADES, 76, AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES – 75 0 08 PARIS

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LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré SHOP STOP

•

Richard Mille • Cifonelli DE

•

MATIGNON

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

Leica•

• Emanuel Berg • Sothys

Steiger

•

Puiforcat Azzaro • Vhernier • F.P. Journe

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

•

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

Pierre Cardin

•

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

• Miu-Miu •

Caron

B AM

ÉR

ÉS

Élysée Palace

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

SHOP STOP

• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Apostrophe • • Christian Louboutin • Pomellato Bui • Barbara RUE ANJOU •Bally •Blumarine •Burberry • Hogan • Ermenegildo Zegna Salvatore Ferragamo Lancôme • • • Heurgon • Glashütte Original • Jitrois Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Janssens Chanel • • Boucheron & Janssens Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

ES RB HE ES AL DM EV UL BO

•

Hedgren

INES

Talents

Lacoste •

• Bucherer

Omega•

CIN

APUC

•

Hackett •

DES C

RUE

Place Vendôme

Tommy Hilfiger

• UL

IG LI O N E

• Zwilling BO

Weston

•

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

Chanel

RU E CA M BO

• Lipault

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

T H U R IN

Lavinia

N • •Tom Ford • Roberto • Cavalli Hervé Léger Jimmy Choo Messika • • Morabito • • Viktor&Rolf Chloé • • Emporio Armani Ports • • Dior DsQuared • • Miki House Tumi • • Omega J.M. • • de Grisogono R U E CA ST

ES MA

• BCBGMaxazria

•

Marella

•Anne Fontaine

•

• Eres • Swarovski • Durance

Église de la Madeleine

•Longchamp

Arije

RUE TRONCHET

•

ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

ATELIER COLOGNE

8 rue Saint-Florentin - Paris 1st M° Concorde or Madeleine Tel : 01 42 60 00 31 www.ateliercologne.com

•

MADELEINE

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje •

•

Michael Kors •

Césaire•

•

Marina Wempe Rinaldi Lancaster • •G. Lotti Kenzo• • Max Mara

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

Atelier Cologne, the Parisian Maison de Parfum, is the creator of a new olfactive family, “Cologne Absolue“. For the first time, citruses are blended with the most precious natural raw materials, ensuring an outstanding lasting power. Complimentary personalization on travel spray leather case.

•

SHOP STOP

CONCORDE

•

•• •

•

S Q U IE R

Baccarat

Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci • • • Ralph Lauren

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Poiray Quartz

RUE PA

Oliver Grant

Lanvin La Perla Prada Escales

• ni • to es n • A.T rgo u He aud • ard e rn qu • Be Lali by • eja nL

iso

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

Les Dandys

Crockett &Jones

•

’A N J O

RUE D

Lanvin Berluti

• •

Place de la Concorde

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

RUE D

•

WEMPE

• Capelstore

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

Frette •

•

• Tag Heuer

IKKS Basler •

•

Samsonite

50 WHERE Pa r i s I J U LY 2015

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BOUTIQUE Samsonite

Curv® is a registered US trademark of Propex Operating Company, LLC. © Samsonite 2015. *Toujours à vos côtés.

12 Boulevard des Capucines - Paris

LITE-LOCKED Curv® technology with a 3-point lock Made in Europe

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LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT LAZARE

Guerlain •

DE CA RU ED

ES M

BOU

ATH

URIN

HUR

RUE MOG ADOR

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

INS

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

•

Sephora Fragonard • ES CR IB

• Episode

Talents

Église de la Madeleine

•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

Opéra Garnier

•

RUE

CAUM

RUE

ARTI

GOD

OT D

RUE

VIGN

AUR

ON TR

MAT

• Le Tanneur

•

Bucherer Tag Heuer Samsonite

•

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

Lancel

•Boggi • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS

•Basler Waskoll Tommy N A. Lange Omega • • Christofle BO Hilfiger & Söhne • AM C • Repetto E U Mauboussin R • Lalique Cartier • Hugo Piaget • Diesel Boss Panerai • Jimmy Choo X IWC • PA I Dinh Van • Viktor&Rolf Van Cleef • E L A Breitling • • • De Fursac Louis Vuitton & Arpels • E D• Jaquet Emporio Armani • RU• AnshindoDroz Cartier Dior Bvlgari Dubail • • Harry Winston Miki House • •Vacheron Constantin •• • • •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex • Desigual Jaeger•Boucheron • • RU LeCoultre E • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LL • E CASA Kusmi Tumi • • Blancpain Kusmi N O Tea VA • Chanel Tea J.M. Weston • Chopard • • Piaget Chaumet • • • • Breguet • Hublot RU • • Patek Philippe Place du Marché ED Frey Wille Damiani ES PE • Saint-Honoré TIT Dior • • Hackett

MADELEINE

Lacoste

UCI

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T-A

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AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: 01 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

DES

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U EA

Fauchon

BUCHERER PARIS

LEV

Andrea

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

•

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

Galeries Lafayette Homme

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LA RUE DE R U E JO U B ER T

Printemps Mode

Printemps Beauté-Maison

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references. 40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Printemps Homme

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Galeries du Diamant •

RUE

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Tourist Office • PYRAMIDES

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AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

Malone ••JoM.A.C • Bonpoint • Colette Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

Missoni

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EC ED

247-251 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 42 86 54 66 www.dsquared2.com

With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.

•Frank Namani

DSQUARED2

• Jovoy

•

-H

H.Stern Arije

IÉR

Montagut • Church’s • • Dodo RU Moynat Richard • ED • U M Grand ON • • Balenciaga T - T Paule Ka HA Piquadro

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PUBLI-REPORTAGE

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

THE DEPARTMENT STORE CAPITAL OF FASHION* Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references. Situées en plein cœur de Paris, à deux pas de l’Opéra Garnier, les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, symbole de l’élégance parisienne, s’étendent sur 70 000 m2 et proposent plus de 3 500 marques, des plus abordables aux plus prestigieuses.

THE DEPARTMENT STORE, CAPITAL OF FASHION Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. LE GRAND MAGASIN, CAPITALE DE LA MODE Les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann proposent une large sélection de produits : mode, accessoires, beauté, décoration et épicerie fine.

FASHION SHOW Enjoy a unique experience with Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann fashion show. The only place in Paris where you can discover the latest designs and the trendiest products for women and men. Fashion shows take place on Fridays at 3pm. Opera Lounge, 7th floor, main building. Reservation or information at +33 (0)1 42 82 30 25 or fashionshow@galerieslafayette.com DÉFILÉ DE MODE Vivez une expérience mode avec le défilé des Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann. Lieu unique à Paris où vous découvrirez les dernières tendances de la saison et les it-produits à ne pas manquer pour femmes et pour hommes. Chaque vendredi au « Salon Opéra » à 15 heures (7è étage, magasin principal). Réservation et information par téléphone au +33 (0)1 42 82 30 25 ou par e-mail à l’adresse suivante : fashionshow@galerieslafayette.com

VIP SERVICES Discover our exclusive tailored services provided by experts in fashion and lifestyle. We will open the doors to our privileged services and areas in which we will exceed your expectations. LES SERVICES PERSONNALISÉS Laissez-nous vous ouvrir les portes d’un univers luxueux et exclusif. Nos experts en Mode et Art de vivre à la française vous offriront une expérience unique à travers des services sur mesure.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN - 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE - Open Monday through Saturday from 9.30 AM to 8 PM - Late opening every Thursday until 9 PM Ouvert de 9h30 à 20h00 du lundi au samedi - Nocturne jusqu’à 21h00 le jeudi - Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ * le grand magasin capitale de la mode

Galeries Lafayette Geolocation Application. Download for free: Application de Géolocalisation des Galeries Lafayette. À télécharger gratuitement sur :

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LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

ARS

Liquides

RUE

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D EB EL LE

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RUE DES ARC HIV ES

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RUE DU TEMPLE

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

Melinda

• Gloss

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

TEMP

RUE DU TEMPLE

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PE RL E

Tsumori Chisato

RUE PAY ENN E

VI GN É RU E SÉ

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MIRON

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Village Saint Paul ■

• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane • Les Exprimeurs PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier •

RUE CH

• Iki •Pierre Boisset

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

ANÇOIS

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

RUE RUE DE LOBAU

DE TURENNE

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LHE

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

RUE

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch L’Occitane

Sentou

•

RIVOLI RUE DE

HOTEL DE VILLE

Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d ue Diptyq in Guerla

VIEIL

•

RUE DU TEMPLE

Nicolaï

RUE

•

15 rue des Rosiers - Paris 4th Tel: 01 42 71 13 76 www.durance.fr

Bonton •

Mi-Mai • Ambali • • RUE BARBETTE Manoush • • Jamin Puech Officinal Slowear • • Aesol Paul & Joe • Marionnaud Paris RUE DES FRANCS BO Penhaligon’s • URGEOIS Ted Musée • •Esteban • Carhartt Fragonard • Baker Carnavalet RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • URGEOIS • Barbara •• •• Iro • Michael • • • Essentiel Bui Uniqlo Aubade •• • Kors • Eres a RUE DES BLA NCS MAN d a o TEA UX • Te &S ry Devernois Guy Degrenne • • Scoth Kusmi d Per Maje • • e • r Créa Concept Alain Mikli L’Argenterie Wolford • •RFU • Cos E de Turenne D ES Lipault RO • • SIERS • • Heschung• • • • Moustaches All Saints RUE DU PLATRE Durance Cire Ugg Paule Ka RUE DE JARENTE Huygens Skeen • K.Jacques • • • Trudon Thomas Sabo• Masha J.Crew Vicomte A • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE Carven Keja • • •Fleux • Gucci • Lacoste • • Mode en Thierry Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Barbara Rihl• Demeure • Givenchy • ILE Karl Lagerfeld • • • Le BHV Marais Moncler • • RUE DU ROI DE SIC Chevignon • l’Homme • Fendi N TO IN E • RU E ST -A Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E • IVOLI SAINT-PAUL

Le BHV Marais

DURANCE

• Moulin Roty

ENN

RU E DE LA

R RUE DE

For Durance, Provence is both a heritage and an inspiration. We compose a well-being universe of indoor fragrances, natural cosmetics and elegant perfumes. Our wide range of refined fragrances are elaborated by our master perfume-makers in Grasse.

Betjman & Barton

TUR

SHOP STOP

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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: 01 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

LOUIS QUATORZE Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

UD RI ET TE

RU E DE S HA

• Merci • Atelier HOUX Oska • AUX C Ami • Cologne • ONT DU P E U R Les Prairies ST-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• Helmut • Lang de Paris FROISSART • ITOU Christophe • DE PO E U E • Lemaire R • Gant UD CLA APC T • S • E Stephane Sonia Cheap RU Marcel by Verdino • Rykiel Monday Wooyoungmi • Nice • Customellow • Things • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Tom • Vanessa Bruno • • Greyhound • Les Petites •Mr • Bonastre • Le Mont Saint Michel FredMarzo • La Fée Maraboutée ■ • Consuelo RU E DE S 4 FI LS Musée National Picasso • Zoelly ENN

SHOP STOP

TUR

•

E E D

État Libre d'Orange RUE PASTOURELLE

Le Slip Français

41 rue des Francs Bourgeois - Paris 4th Tel: 01 44 54 18 51 www.michaelkors.com

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

A IR E

• DE 13 Bonaparte Isabel •NOR• MA Marant N Monsieur Lacenaire • • Ron Dorff DIE Monsieur Paris • Mes Demoiselles • RU E DE BR ET AG NE

MICHAEL KORS Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

ILL

RU E CH AR LO

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• Verreries de Brehat

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RUE DU TEMPLE

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Carreau du Temple ■ The Broxen Arm La Boutique RU E PE• Extraordinaire • RR ÉE

M IN E

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LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

SHOP STOP la Concorde

rist Ch

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ofle •

CONCORDE

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Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai A.Testoni

•

Kenzo

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Le Jacquard Francais

NE APUC

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RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

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Acaba •

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RUE RICHELIEU

• • • • • • • • Pie

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Christian Louboutin

All Saints Y’s

•

Maje

Hartford

Esprit Bonpoint IRO

• • • •

• Galerie Véro-Dodat

•

by Terry Xavier Lust

• •

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

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Musée du Louvre

• • •

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens w i A son en Ste cne Fab s lla Stu re Mc di Ca os rtn ey

RUE DE RIVOLI

ANGELA CAPUTI Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

RUE VIVIENNE

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

Palais Royal

•D

PALAIS ROYAL

ÉR

• PYRAMIDES

id •Q ier Lu ee do •G lin t

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Printemps du Louvre

’OP

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

SHOP STOP

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Lamarthe

•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

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OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

RUE SAINT ROCH

Frey Wille

Opéra Garnier

•

RUE DES PYRAMIDES Carrousel du Louvre

Place du Marché St-Honoré

•Jo Malone •M.A.C •Bonpoint

•Cotélac

•

RUE DE LA PA IX

•Paraboot

The Kooples •

Peuterey • La Prairie •

Montagut

ONORÉ

366 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 40 20 90 98 www.mikihouse.fr

RUE S A IN T -H

Superb quality and unique style are the hallmarks of this Japanese house of children’s fashion and style. Every collection is conceived with the child in mind. Fashioned in workshops in Japan, the clothing is made from fine fabrics and imbued with practical, functional and unique touches. Open Mon-Sat 10am - 7pm.

LEI

IG LI ON E

• Place Vendôme • Goyard • Guerlain •Dodo •Dubail Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka• •Moynat TUILERIES •Stuart Weitzman Perrin • •Balenciaga • Akillis •

MIKI HOUSE

• Zwilling

Hedgren

• RU

Max&Moi • • • E CA MB ON • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • Messika• Hervé •Jimmy Choo Léger Morabito• • Viktor&Rolf Chloé• •Emporio Armani Ports • Jamin •Dior DsQuared2 • Puech • Miki House Tumi• •Omega Arije J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

Talbot Runhof Kiehl’s • • Barbara Rihl Colette • Chantal Thomass•

JM Weston • Chanel

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

• BCBGMaxazria • Lipault

Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje•

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Swarovski

Marella

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• Chanel

6 rue Saint Florentin - Paris 1st Tel: 01 42 97 43 43 www.stephaniecesaire.com

Église de la Madeleine

RUE DE RIVOLI

• Vertu Wempe • Lancaster •

Césaire

MADELEINE

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Dior

••

Structured like architectural masterpieces, cut like couture creations, Stéphanie Césaire’s bags are made with splendid leathers by the best artisans of French luxury. The designer presents her bags, alluring like dresses, in her boutique full of flair and character.

•

RUE SAINT-FLOREN TIN

Gucci

• Oliver Grant •Baccarat

RUE ROYALE

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

CÉSAIRE

Jardin des Tuileries

•Lanvin •La Perla •Prada Chanel •Pinko

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RUE ROYALE

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

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RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

RUE DU FBG ST-HONORÉ

Place de

RUE JEAN-J ACQUES ROUSSE AU

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LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

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Hartwood •

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Poltrona Frau • Silvera

Deyrolle •

The Kooples • Bowen •

ED U

Escales • Elsa

Debauve & Gallais •

& Voltaire • Zadig • Karl Lagerfeld

GON

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RUE DES CANETTES

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BVD

RUE SERVANDONI

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ES SA RU E D’OD

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

RUE MA BIL LON

33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet) 20 ave Trudaine - Paris 9th Tel: 01 48 78 23 85 (M° Anvers)

• Wolford

S PA IL ARD RA

The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes and more. There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike, including a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains.

•

Poiray Inédit Joaillier Christian • Mauboussin BO • U Louboutin • Façonnable L Ke E VA RUE • Cremieux • • nz DE L RD Louis Pau o• • ’A B SAI • Agent B AY Ralph l Sm NTVuitton Provocateur Walter E G Lauren • i t E Steiger h• l’A R • • M • AIN The Slowear Pa rtisa Brunello Cucinelli rfu n • Store me Burberry Hugo SAINT-GERMAIN ur • Voyeurs • • Paul Smith Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Boss Armani Paul & Joe• • Shadé • • • Césarée L.K. Cartier • Céline • Ventilo Bennett Lancel • Ferragamo Rolex• MABILLON • Dinh Van • Vicomte A Hackett• • Montblanc Carven • Crockett & Jones • Kenzo • Robert • Alexis Mabille • • J.M. Weston Clergerie L’Ibis Rouge • Saint Laurent • • Sportmax• • Marina • Tod’s Prada •Max&Moi Rinaldi Dot-Drops • U FOUR La Perla Alain Mikli • • D • Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Le Mont Repetto Implicite Omega S Saint Michel Berluti • • ÉVRE • S Saint E Swatch • • RUE D • RUE DE BABYLONE • Laurent Longchamp Longines •Derhy • SU LP IC E T• • IN SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Agnès b RUE • Courreges • Hermès Robert • ULPICE Zadig Clergerie RUE ST-S & Voltaire • My Tokki ES Le Bon VR SÉ Marché • Rowena E • Forrest D E Église Saint-Sulpice RU • Guerlain IÉR ES

BOULEV

TIKIBOU TOY STORE

Gab&Jo

•

R TE

SHOP STOP

EJ AC

Francis Klein • Faienceries •• de Gien Emaux de Longwy Fabrice

S PA IL ARD RA

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 / www.mydotdrops.com

Green

• Aubercy

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

T-G

DES

• John Lobb UL Bang EV AR • & Olufsen DS • AIN Edward BO

SAIN

• Vanier

RUE DU BAC

DOT-DROPS®

TS-P

Cassina

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•

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SHOP STOP

RUE FÉROU

30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com

FRANCIS KLEIN This family-run brand offers hand-made, out of sight glasses and accessories. All made in France, their collections cater to all looks, offering glamorous and original frames allowing you to wear a piece of Paris every day. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

ED EL ’UN

LIL

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Musée d’Orsay

MONTPARNASSEBIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V D E DG A

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Jardins du Luxembourg

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Turn to page 62 to discover Cristóbal Balenciaga’s story with lace

Cristóbal Balenciaga, cocktail dress in painted lace and embroidered, 1953 Photo © Henry Clarke / Corbis Piece now in the collections of the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais

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Exhibitions

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent with the model Rebecca Photo © Pierre Boulat/courtesy Association Pierre et Alexandra Boulat; Elizabeth I, known as the The Darnley Portrait, circa 1575, 113 x 78.7 cm, Oil on wood, London, National Portrait Gallery © National Portrait Gallery, London, England

Cristóbal Balenciaga, cocktail dress in painted lace and embroidered, 1953 Photo © Henry Clarke / Corbis Piece now in the collections of the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais

arts&attractions

A rare behind the scenes look at Yves Saint Laurent is being presented in an exhibition of photographs at DS World Paris. The show presents 36 exceptional photographs by Pierre Boulat and Alexandra Boulat tracing Saint Laurent’s career from his beginnings at Dior to his own house on the rue Spontini then avenue Marceau and his farewell show at the Pompidou Centre. The photographs offer a fascinating glimpse into the world of the great designer from the studio to the effervescence of the great runway shows, which made Saint Laurent famous throughout the world. Pierre Boulat was a photographer for Life Magazine and covered the work of Saint Laurent during the preparations of his collections and also photographed him in his Parisian apartments. Alexandra Boulat photographed the preparations of the designer’s last show in his studio at 5 avenue Marceau, leaving behind a moving record of the final days of the house of Yves Saint Laurent. Through September 10 33 rue François 1er (8th), 01 53 57 33 08

Taking in the Tudors The Tudors reigned between 1485 and 1603 and theirs was a dynasty of power and intrigue, a dynasty that left its indelible imprint not only on England, but on all of Europe as well, for the Tudors strategically positioned themselves within the European balance of power. They left a spiritual mark, too, by breaking away from the Roman Catholic Church. They welcomed the Renaissance and artists from across Europe entered into the service of the court to create works and royal portraits of some of the most memorable monarchs in the history of Europe. A superb exhibition devoted to the Tudors is being played out at the Musée du Luxembourg bringing together over 100 works emanating from major British and French collections. The iconic portraits of the five Tudor monarchs are all there ranging from the dynasty’s founder Henry VII to the infamous Henry VIII, Edward VI, the boy king, Mary I, also known as Bloody Mary and the Virgin Queen, Elizabeth I. Through July 19 19 rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 40 13 62 00

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Galerie Taménaga

arts&attractions Exhibitions

Asia on Stage Chen Jiang-Hong MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Gris, Klee, Chagall, Bonnard, Buffet, Soutine CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano

18 avenue Matignon - Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest

A fun and festive exhibition tracing two millennia of theatre in Asia is being played out at the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques – Guimet. Entitled from Nô to Mata Hari, 2000 Years of Asian Theatre, this privileged panorama of the theatrical arts of Asia brings together highly visual elements including colourful costumes, adornments and masks making it a fun show for children as well. From Indian theatre costumes to Japanese nô kimonos and Peking opera dresses to Southeast Asian shadow theatre, a world of deities, animals and characters comes to life. Theatrical performances including song and dance and projections of film and documentaries are all on the agenda. Activities for children include a mask workshop on July 15th at 2:30pm and puppet making on July 29th at 2:30pm (reservations are required). Through August 31 6 place d’Iéna (16th), 01 56 52 53 00

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Up on the Roofs

Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

The rooftops of Paris are unique, blending harmoniously into the sky over the capital. Fashioned by talented craftsmen over the centuries and emblematic of Paris, they have inspired painters, filmmakers and photographers alike. They take on a particular aura as night falls when natural light makes way for artificial light, giving the city a special glow. It was right at this time between day and night that photographer Alain Cornu focused in on the rooftops of Paris from carefully sought out points of view ultimately revealing another Paris hidden from the passer-by in the street. A show being held in the Salon du Panthéon, a quintessentially Parisian venue inside the Cinéma du Panthéon, that resembles a welcoming living room and was decorated by Catherine Deneuve and Christian Sapet, is showcasing Cornu’s photographs. Through July 31 13 rue Victor Cousin (5th), 01 56 24 88 80

Mahabharata, Battle Scene India, School of Paithan, circa 1850, Gouache on paper, 30 x 42 cm, Paris, musée national des arts asiatiques – Guimet – MA 2765 Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée Guimet, Paris) / Richard Lambert; Rue Feydeau #1 –Paris 2013 Photo © Alain Cornu

IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

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Robert INdIaNa Love (gold faces, red sides), 1966 - 2002 Polychrome aluminium, edition of 6 + 4 AP 91,5 x 91,5 x 45,7 cm - 36 x 36 x 18 in.

New address: 62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ 75008 Paris

T +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00

paris@operagallery.com Mon. - Sat. 10 am - 7.30 pm & Sunday 11 am - 7 pm operagallery.com

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arts&attractions

Commemorating a Cloth Maker Jouy-en-Josas, a delightful town southwest of Paris, is paying tribute to one of its most celebrated inhabitants, Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, who died 200 years ago and who in 1760 founded the manufacture of the Toile de Jouy, a distinctive printed cotton fabric featuring elaborate scenes on a white or off-white background, an icon in the world of interior decorating. Currently on show at the Musée de la Toile de Jouy are two commemorative exhibitions. One is devoted to contemporary Indian printed fabrics or chintzes originally known as “indiennes” in 17th and 18th century Europe, which Oberkampf copied and eventually surpassed. A second show entitled On the Toile explores works linked to the local cloth by contemporary artists working in various mediums. The museum also exhibits its collections of Jouy cloths, French and foreign printed fabrics that were in vogue in the 18th and 19th centuries, printing equipment, old drawings and 18th century objects and furnishings evoking the world of Oberkampf. Through July 26 Château de l’Eglantine 54 rue Charles de Gaulle, 78350 Jouy-en-Josas, 01 39 56 48 64

Lovely Lace A spectacular show entitled Balenciaga, Master of Lace at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais pays tribute to the legendary fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who was born 120 years ago in Getaria, Spain. From jackets to cocktail dresses, tunics to accessories, lace is an almost constant presence in the creations of a man who was often the driving force behind the evolution of fashion in the 1950s and 1960s. Through some 75 outfits and accessories including hats, gloves and shoes along with dozens of studio photographs and sketches, the exhibition presents an overview of the designer while offering an in-depth look at Balenciaga’s relationship with lace. His Parisian creations are also being shown alongside those produced by his Spanish fashion houses whose fabrics were often selected in Paris. Much of the mechanical lace used by Balenciaga was produced in Calais and so the show, too, pays tribute to the city’s lace-making industry. Through August 31 135 Quai du Commerce, 62100 Calais, 03 21 00 42 30

Musée de la Toile de Jouy Photo © Anne-Laure Camilleri; A Journey from Chintz to tattoo parlor, Weaving of woolen yarn & reverse, acrylic paint - 53.5x35.25 in, © Shrabani Roy; Cristóbal Balenciaga, evening gown with dipped waistline and body-stole in shantung and lace, 1958 Photo © Manuel Outumuro Piece now in the collections of the Fundación Cristóbal Balenciaga Fundazioa, Getaria, Spain

Exhibitions Outside of Paris

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arts&attractions Monuments

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01.55.37.73.77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30 am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 8.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris

the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-15.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01.44.11.23.23. M° Trocadéro

LUXEMBOURG GARDEN This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Through Dec 31 Paris disparu, Paris restitué, looks at the history of Paris through the vestiges from Lutèce to the 19th century (in the crypt). www. crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 8.50€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01.42.34.56.10. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own,10am-4:30pm (adults 10€, students and under 25, 6€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (14.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08.25.05.44.05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

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Jardin Luxembourg

PLACE DES VOSGES One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

PONT DES ARTS This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand.

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm;

Dome and crypt 9am-5pm. www.sacre-coeurmontmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9:30am-6pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01.53.40.60.97. M° Cité

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 65

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Address Book

arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Galerie NMariño

art galleries Galerie Bernheim-Jeune

The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and others. Now run by descendants of the founder, the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm. 83 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil

Galerie Daniel Templon

A contemporary gallery featuring established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10. M° Rambuteau

Galerie de Jonckheere

Museum-quality 16 and 17 -century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil th

Galerie Lelong

This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

Galerie Maeght

This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm. Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15. M° Rue du Bac

Galerie Malingue

This prestigious gallery has been welcoming discerning art collectors for over three decades. With three lofty exhibition rooms, it proffers a journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miró are all found in this fine and sublime house of art. Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm, Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions) 2:30pm-6:30pm. 26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Marian Goodman

The Paris branch of the renowned New York gallery. Artists include John Baldessari, Christian Boltanski. Giuseppe Penone, Gerhard Richter, Jeff Wall. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 79 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.48.04.70.52. M° Rambuteau

Galerie Nathalie Obadia

This contemporary gallery features fine, collectable works by both established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. 3 rue du Cloître SaintMerri (4th), 01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de VIlle

Batobus | Boat Cruises

This sophisticated and welcoming gallery in the Marais neighbourhood specialises in geometric abstraction and kinetic art. The house showcases both confirmed and emerging talents and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent collections. William Barbosa, Martha Boto and Hans Kotter are among the artists represented by the gallery. Tues-Sat 1pm-6pm. 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01.48.87.49.75. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Polad-Hardouin

This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. Works with strong pictorial choices are featured here. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29. M° Rambuteau

Galerie Russkiy Mir

This well-appointed gallery features works by contemporary Russian artists including Anatoly Poutilline, Masha Schmidt, Marina Nikolaeva, Andrei Tyrtyshnikov and Vladimir Sichov. 7 rue Miromesnil (8th), 01.44.71.07.41. M° Miromesnil

Galerie Schmit

Three generations of art experts present museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th century French masters. Covering periods from the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm. 396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36. M° Concorde

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Les Étoiles du Rex

Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park, one of the most popular in all of France. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park

Parc Asterix | Attractions

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Address Book

at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Tenniseum Roland-Garros

The mythical tennis stadium is home to a fine museum devoted to tennis. The bilingual (French-English) multimedia exhibition space projects films, matches and exclusive interviews. And enjoy a backstage look at the French Open. Wed/Fri-Sun 10am-6pm. 2 ave Gordon Bennett (16th), 01.47.43.48.00. M° Porte d’Auteuil

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37.

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 11am-11:30am & 1:30pm-6pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Yachts de Paris

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

day trips Auvers sur Oise

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Chartres

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Bateaux-Mouches

Château de Fontainebleau

boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Batobus

Château de Versailles

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Vedettes de Paris | Boat Cruises

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th-century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

La Maison Vignobles & Chateaux

Discover the art of tasting Bordeaux wine and the diversity of its vintages in this welcoming establishment located in the medieval town of Saint-Emillion. A large selection of fine Bordeaux wines is available in the boutique and tasting courses are given at the Ecole du Vin de Saint- Emillion. 4 rue du Clocher, SaintEmilion, 05.57.24.61.01. SNCF TGV train from the Gare Montparnasse to the Gare de Libourne (3 hours), 10 km to Saint- Emilion, by train, taxi or car.

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

Troyes

A delightful small city in the heart of the Champagne country. Narrow streets of half- timbered houses with gabled roofs and private mansions dating from the Renaissance are an integral part of the charm of this quintessential provincial town, which became the seat of the Counts of Champagne in the 9th century. The city is doted with a fine array of museums, a superb cathedral and spectacular churches. Direct trains depart regularly from the Gare de l’Est (about 90 minutes).

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arts&attractions Address Book

gardens Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glassplate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent reporters all over the world to document the lifestyles of indigenous peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne - Pont de Saint-Cloud

Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm, (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

guided tours

Espace Dali

Jardin du Luxembourg

4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie

These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.

L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Twiztour

Fondation Mona Bismarck

Paris City Vision

Visit Paris in our two-seater 100% electric and automatic “talking car”. Choose one of our 3 incredible tours and explore every nook and cranny of Paris with your own GPS audio guide. Port de Suffren, pier of “Vedettes de Paris” (7th), 08.11.69.69.63. M° Bir Hakeim / RER C Champ-de-Mars

Founded in the 1980s by the Countess Mona Bismarck to encourage scholastic and artistic exchanges between Americans and the French. Sat noon-6:30pm. 34 ave de New York (16th), 01.47.23.38.88. M° Alma-Marceau

Your American Friend in Paris

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Terrance Gelenter will show you a Paris au Flaneur you’ve never seen before. Choose the Classic program or let him customize an itinerary. 06.70.98.13.68. www.paris-expat.com

museums & fondations Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins

The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins | Museums & Fondations

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Musée Carnavalet

A wonderful museum of Paris history in two adjoining 16th and 17th-century private mansions in the Marais. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. 23 rue de Sévigné (3rd), 01.44.59.58.58. M° St-Paul

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de St-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Jardin du Luxembourg | Gardens

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arts&attractions

Address Book

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21, rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Lettres et des Manuscrits

Created in 2004, by ‘The International Academy of Arts and Collections’, this romantic museum houses the original document of Einstein-Besso regarding the theory of relativity, a rare partition from Mozart, letters from Napoleon and poems from Paul Eluard, Voltaire and Manet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 222 blvd St-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.48.48. M° Rue du Bac

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra

Musée du Quai Branly

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun

11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée Galliera

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm (last tickets one hour before closing). 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée National de la Marine

France’s fascinating maritime museum, with superb scale models of ships dating as far back as Louis XV. Mon-Fri 11am- 6pm/Sat & Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 17 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01.53.65.69.69. M° Trocadéro

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

L’Open Tour Paris | Guided Tours

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Pinacothèque

An exhibition space dedicated to the various forms of art showcasing superb exhibitions. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun 10:30am-6:30pm & Wed, Fri 10:30am-9:30pm. 28 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.02.01. M° Madeleine

passes & practical information Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Fondation Louis Vuitton

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The Guide

dining

Restaurants | Bistros | Italian Cuisine | New Tables | Pastries

Turn to page 72 to discover Lasserre’s creative dishes

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Restaurants

East Mamma Like almost everyone else, Parisians also have a soft spot for really good Italian food, which is occasionally exactly what a visitor to the city may yearn for after a suite of traditional French meals. Happily, then, talented restaurateurs Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger’s handsome new Italian trattoria in the 11th arrondissement offers the sort of casual dining that makes a trip to Italy such a pleasure. “Our idea was to open a restaurant inspired by the trattorias of Italy that offered good food at fair prices that’s made with really great Italian produce that we import ourselves,” says Seydoux, whose love and knowledge of Italian food came from growing up in Monaco. “In Monaco, we probably eat Italian food more often than we do French,” he says, adding, “Our chef, Ciro Cristinano, is Italian, and our wood-burning pizza oven was custom-built for us in Naples.” London based interior designer Martin Brudnizki, who has designed many of British chef Jamie Oliver’s restaurants, signed the warm look of the restaurant, which makes food part of the décor with huge wheels of Parmesan displayed on open shelving, and also offers a variety of dining settings, from counter seating to a table d’hotes and individual tables. A great choice for groups, East Mamma has a terrific menu, too, which begins with a section of antipasti, including burrata cheese and several different type of Prosciutto, and then offers a variety of different pizzas and freshly made pastas. A small assortment of meat and fish main courses are also available, but the reason there is always a crowd on the pavement outside of this no-reservations, first-come-first-served restaurant, is that the pizzas and pastas are so good. Open daily for lunch and dinner. – Alexander Lobrano 133 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01 43 41 32 15

East Mamma © Renaud Cambuzat; La Maison Plisson Terrace © JP Baltel

Restaurant Maison Plisson “When I lived in New York City I loved going to Dean & Deluca, Whole Foods and all of the other great food stores there. So when I moved back to Paris, I thought, ‘why don’t we have stores like those here?’” says Delphine Plisson, whose new Maison Plisson, a café-restaurant-grocerystore next door to the cult concept-shop Merci in the Marais, has been an instant hit since it opened a couple of month ago. “Insofar as the food we serve in the restaurant is concerned, I wanted it to be really good reasonably priced comfort food,” says Plisson, adding that this means dishes like roast chicken, boulettes (meat balls), and other homey Gallic treats. To develop the menu, she worked with chef Bruno Doucet, who runs the original La Regalade in the 14th arrondissement, one of the best bistros in Paris, and two branch tables in the 1st and 9th arrondissements. “Bruno knows what I like,” says Plisson with a chuckle, since he’s her exhusband. The menu at the café-restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and is open daily, changes regularly, but a very pleasant recent prix-fixe three-course lunch for 33 euros on the large outdoor terrace ran to cold tomato soup spiked with piment d’Espelette from the Basque Country, meatballs made from ground chicken and baby peas on a bed of bulgur with a jus de viande (light sauce of veal cooking juices), and excellent rice pudding for dessert. Since reservations are not accepted, it’s best to come early for lunch or dinner. – A.L. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd) w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 71

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Restaurants

Benoit If you’re looking for cutting edge modern French cooking, Benoit won’t be for you. If, on the other hand, you’re craving a meal of beautifully prepared upmarket bistro and cuisine bourgeois classics in a profoundly Parisian atmosphere with a lot of history and charm, it’s likely you’ll succumb to the charm of this century-old table on a tree-lined impasse in the heart of Paris. Gastronomic entrepreneur Alain Ducasse took over this table, which had been run by the Petit family ever since it opened, in 2005, and by doing so, he probably saved it by putting it beyond the vicissitudes of gastronomic trends and recognising it as a bona-fide monument to Gallic gastronomy. The menu runs to such starters like Langue de Lucullus, a specialty of the northern French city of Valenciennes that’s made with smoked calf’s tongue and pate, crayfish soup, and some of the best foie gras in Paris, and main courses such as filet of sole in a sauce Nantua (a tomato-tinted crayfish based pink cream sauce) with baby spinach or, for the adventurous, calf’s head with a ravigote sauce. There’s also a regularly changing assortment of other classic French dishes, and daily specials, too, maybe asparagus with a truffled hollandaise sauce and saddle of lamb cooked with violet mustard. Among the desserts not to miss are the vanilla millefeuille and the frozen citrus soufflé, a perfect choice on a warm summer day. Note, too, that there’s a good-value 39-euro lunch menu available if you prefer to avoid the stiff à la carte prices, and that Benoit is open daily. – A.L. 20 rue Saint Martin (4th), 01 58 00 22 05

Lasserre is one of the French dining establishments that encompass what everyone waits for when dining in the French capital. A retractable roof with a Louis Touchagues hand-painted fresco of dancing ladies inspired by the Bluebell dancers of the Lido, classical music coming from the piano in the corner and the touring balustrade evoking an inner garden atmosphere all work together to transport diners to the Belle Epoque when everyone dressed up for dinner. The menu is equally refined, treating diners to an appetising culinary show with dishes beautifully executed by chef Adrien Trouilloud including the house’s signature dishes, the black truffle and duck foe gras stuffed macaroni and the Challans orange duck for two people. The elegant mansionlike restaurant also features a second kitchen where pastry chef Claire Heitzler creates the house’s sweet desserts, which include Lasserre’s famous Suzette crepes that are flambéed at your table. - S.I. 17 ave Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01 43 59 02 13

Restaurant Benoit © Pierre Monetta

Lasserre

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Restaurants

Chez Monsieur “Royal Madeleine”

Photo © Christine Tamalet

Anyone looking for a really good classic French bistro meal in the heart of Paris will be in for a treat if they book at Chez Monsieur “Royal Madeleine”, a long-running address that has just been tastefully and very discretely updated in terms of both its décor and its menu. Young chef Martin Harispé, who hails from the Basque Country and who previously worked at the famous Cheval Blanc in Bayonne and the sublime Grand Hotel du Palais, one of the last real ‘grand’ hotels in France, in Biarritz, moved to Paris to work with chef Yannick Alléno when he was still at Le Meurice, and his style very much reflects Alléno’s culinary cardinal points of precision and exigency. What’s terrific about the menu at this chic but relaxed dining room, a place that has a delicious and distinctly Parisian ambiance, is that it offers excellent renditions of those famous dishes so many visitors to the capital want to try, including onion soup, terrine de foie gras, snails in garlic butter, blanquette de veau, the luscious stew of veal, mushrooms and onions in cream sauce, sole meunière, and even crêpes Suzette, which are flambéed tableside with great ceremony. They’re also a variety of lighter modern French dishes on the menu, like the sea bream carpaccio with mango that a friend had the night we came here for dinner recently, or the plump green Provençal asparagus with tiny poached quail’s eggs and a racy passion fruit vinaigrette with which I began my meal. Pan sautéed John Dory accompanied by a copper ramekin of baby spinach leaves was an excellent main course, while the blanquette de veau was beautifully made and served. And in addition to the wonderful crepes, the other dessert not to miss here are the homemade profiteroles, or choux pastries filled with ice cream, which come to the table with a sauceboat of hot chocolate sauce. Note, too, that this bistro has an exceptionally good wine list, including a great selection by the glass, since the owners are avid vinophiles. – A.L. 11 rue du Chevalier Saint-Georges (8th), 01 42 60 14 36 181x132 WHERE-FEVRIER_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 17/12/2013 11:46 Page1

Seafood, a Parisian culture.

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

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Restaurant Advertorial

le roland-garros French cuisine / Paris 16th The restaurant Le Roland-Garros in the heart of the mythical stadium has a warm and friendly atmosphere. The Chef prepares original dishes that are contemporary and refined, combining tradition and modernity. Open for Lunch and Dinner, dining room and terrace, brunch on Sundays. 2 bis avenue Gordon-Bennett, Paris 16th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 43 49 56 reservation.rolandgarros@sodexo-prestige.fr www.rolandgarros-salons.com

le bar à huÎtres

Complementary glass of champagne upon presentation of this page

Seafood / Paris 3rd, 5th, 14th & 17th This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic collections of "Grand Cru” oysters in the French capital. The Chef offers a variety of seasonal dishes made with high-quality products, including a selection of crustaceans & other specialties for meat lovers. An exceptional wine list with more than 150 references from around the world complement the dining experience of this elegant and modern place. Valet parking. Daily, noon-midnight. 33 blvd Beaumarchais, Paris 3rd / Tel: +33 (0) 1 48 87 98 92 33 rue Saint-Jacques, Paris 5th / Tel: +33 (0) 1 44 07 27 37 112 blvd du Montparnasse, Paris 14th / Tel: +33 (0) 1 43 20 71 01 69 avenue de Wagram, Paris 17th / Tel: +33 (0) 1 43 80 63 54 www.lebarahuitres.com

ashiana Refined Indian Gastronomy / 92, Neuilly sur Seine Steps away from La Défense and Porte Maillot, Ashiana invites you to discover “house” specialties in north Indian tandoori and curries in a charming environment. Excellent address to encounter India since 1986. Business Lunch, friendly service, air-conditioned. Recommended by several gastronomic guides. Open every day, 12pm-2:30pm / 7pm-11:30pm. 205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly sur Seine (Metro: Pont de Neuilly) Tel: +33 (0)1 46 24 52 43 www.restaurantashiana.com

durand dupont French cuisine / 92, Neuilly sur Seine Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes. For a starter enjoy salmon gravlax, then savour pan-seared albacore tuna with sweet peppers and tomatoes, followed by a tasty dessert of fresh fruit salad with frozen yogurt ice-cream. 14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine), Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: +33 (0)1 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com 74 WHERE Pa r i s I J U LY 2015

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dining

Restaurants

Restaurant du Palais Royal When the sun is out and the sky is blue, dining alfresco can be one of the most memorable moments you can experience while visiting the French capital, and adding to the magic is to enjoy fine fare in one of the city’s quintessentially Parisian areas. The Palais Royal garden is one of the most beautiful places in Paris and overlooking this idyllic space, under beautiful arches, and surrounded by designer boutiques, is the recently reopened Restaurant du Palais Royal. After months of renovations, following its takeover by Evok Hôtels Collection, the restaurant has reopened its doors to unveil a contemporary décor and a new menu. Chef Philip Chronopoulos has put together a contemporary French menu that includes reconstructed traditional dishes such as lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. This is a perfect table for a culinary escape to a perfect partisan moment. - S.I. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01 40 20 00 27

Djakarta Bali Taking you on a voyage to exotic Indonesia, Djakarta Bali, a family-run restaurant, opened its doors in 1985 after the family was sent into exile in 1965. Today, thirty years on, the restaurant still continues to share traditional Indonesian cuisine with Parisians and visitors to the French capital. In a warm and inviting ambiance diners are invited to discover the Indonesian specialties including the Gado-Gado, a salad of mixed vegetables seasoned with a peanut sauce, Opor Ayam, a dish of chicken slowly cooked in a light coconut milk sauce and Pepes Ikan, a traditional dish where the fish is steamed and cooked inside a banana leaf. For dessert fresh fruit is on the menu as well as the Coupe Kolak, banana and jackfruit served in coconut milk. For a farther voyage, plunging diners to Indonesia, the restaurant hosts a Balinese dance show every Friday night. - S.I. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01 45 08 83 11 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 75

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dining

Restaurant Advertorial

WePLer Traditional Traditional french french cuisine cuisine

th 414 414 Place Place de de Clichy, Clichy, Paris Paris 18 18th (Metro: (Metro: Place Place de de Clichy) Clichy) 4Tel: 4Tel: 01 01 45 45 22 22 53 53 24 24 4Daily 4Daily until until 12:30 12:30 am am 4Lunch 4Lunch && Dinner Dinner menu menu 30 30e e 4Set-menu 4Set-menu 24.50 24.50e e 4English spoken 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com 4www.wepler.com

ratn Indian Indian Moghol Moghol Gastronomy Gastronomy

49 49 rue rue de de la laTremoille, Tremoille, Paris Paris 8th 8th 4Metro: 4Metro: George GeorgeVV 4Tel: 01 40 70 01 09 4Tel: 01 40 70 01 09 4Open 4Open every every day, day, 12pm 12pm -- 2.45pm 2.45pm // 7.15pm-11.45pm 7.15pm-11.45pm 4Recommended 4Recommended by by Michelin, Michelin, Gault Gault Millau, Millau, Pudlo, Pudlo, Bottin Bottin 4Business 4Business lunch, lunch, air air conditioned conditioned 4www.restaurantratn.com 4www.restaurantratn.com

One One of of the the finest finest French French onion onion soups soups in in the the capital, capital, savour savour crayfish crayfish in in cherry cherry sauce, sauce, lobsters lobsters from from Brittany, Brittany, aa marmite marmite from from Marseille Marseille served served as as aa bouillabaisse bouillabaisse and and the the Wepler Wepler classics classics from from potted potted duck duck to to savoury savoury sauerkrauts. sauerkrauts.

Since Since 1976, 1976, the the Bhalla Bhalla family, family, originally originally from from New New Delhi, Delhi, excels excels in in Indian Indian Moghol Moghol th Gastronomy Gastronomy of of the the 17 17th century century and and immortalises immortalises the the beautiful beautiful north north Indian Indian culinary culinary traditions. traditions. RATN RATN invites invites you you to to discover discover the the finest finest specialties specialties in in tandoori tandoori and and curries. curries.

trUffes fOLies

breakfast in america

Fine Fine cuisine cuisine with with truffles truffles

The The "Original" "Original" American American Diner Diner in in Paris! Paris!

437 437 rue rue Malar, Malar, Paris Paris 7th 7th // Tel: Tel: 01 01 44 44 18 18 05 05 41 41 4Metro: 4Metro: Latour Latour Maubourg/ Maubourg/ Pont Pont de de l’Alma l’Alma 4Lunch: 4Lunch: 12pm 12pm to to 3pm 3pm (except (except Sunday) Sunday) 4Dinner: 4Dinner: 6:30pm 6:30pm to to 9:30pm 9:30pm (except (except Saturday/Sunday) Saturday/Sunday) 4www.truffesfolies.fr 4www.truffesfolies.fr

Located Locatednear nearthe theInvalides, Invalides,the therestaurant restaurantTruffes Truffes Folies Folieswelcomes welcomesyou youin inan anelegant, elegant,warm warmand and intimate intimatesetting. setting.You Youwill willsavour savouraaselection selectionof of truffle-based truffle-baseddishes dishes(risotto, (risotto,tagliatelle, tagliatelle,foie foiegras, gras, salads) salads)and andregional regionalproducts. products.We Wehave havecarefully carefully selected selectedfor foryou youthe thefinest finestof ofgourmet gourmetproducts, products, aalarge largeassortment assortmentof oftruffles truffles (black (blackand andwhite) white) and andexceptional exceptionalfoie foiegras. gras.

4BIA 4BIA 1: 1: 17 17 rue rue des des Ecoles, Ecoles, Paris Paris 5th 5th (Metro: (Metro: Jussieu Jussieu or or Cardinal Cardinal Lemoine) Lemoine) //Tel: Tel: 01 01 43 43 54 54 50 50 28 28 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th (Metro: St. Paul) / 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th (Metro: St. Paul) / Tel: Tel: 01 01 42 42 72 72 40 40 21 21 (BIA (BIA 2) 2) 4Open 4Open 77 days days aa week week -- 8:30am 8:30am -- 11pm 11pm menus, Mon-Fri, 4Lunch 4Lunch menus, Mon-Fri,10.95 10.95e e&&8.95 8.95e e(students) (students) 4www.breakfast-in-america.com 4www.breakfast-in-america.com

For For aa traditional traditional American American Diner Diner serving serving classic classic comfort comfort food food -- including including real real burgers burgers and and breakfasts breakfasts (omelets, (omelets, bagels bagels and and yummy yummy pancakes pancakes with with real real maple maple syrup syrup etc.), etc.), plus plus fresh fresh milkshakes... milkshakes... and and much much more! more!

Le LamfÉ

Le LOUcHÉbem

Traditional Traditional french french cuisine cuisine

st 47 47 rue rue des des Prouvaires, Prouvaires, Paris Paris 11st (Metro: (Metro: Châtelet Châtelet // Les Les Halles); Halles);Tel: Tel: 01 01 45 45 08 08 04 04 10 10 4Lamfé 4Lamfé means means the the butcher’s butcher’s wife wife 4Special 4Special Salers Salers beef beef menu menu at at 19.90 19.90e e 4Unlimited 4Unlimited carpaccio: carpaccio: 23.90 23.90e e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lamfe.fr 4www.lamfe.fr

Succulent Succulent meats meats from from the the butcher butcher are are to to be be savoured savoured here. here. Inventive, Inventive, refined refined appetizers appetizers including including crispy crispy thyme-flavoured thyme-flavoured camembert camembert are are worth worth the the detour. detour. The The calf’s calf’s liver liver isis aa sheer sheer delight delight and and the the ambiance ambiance warm warm and and full full of of charm. charm.

st 431 431 rue rue Berger, Berger, Paris Paris 11st (Metro: (Metro: Châtelet Châtelet // Les Les Halles) Halles) 4Tel: 4Tel: 01 01 42 42 33 33 12 12 99 99 4Louchébem 4Louchébem means means butcher butcher 4A 4A meat meat eater’s eater’s paradise, paradise, aa historic historic grill grill room room 4Closed 4Closed Sundays Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr 4www.le-louchebem.fr

This This quintessential quintessential les les Halles Halles butcher’s butcher’s restaurant restaurant proffers proffers aa full full gamut gamut of of meat meat dishes. dishes. The The pot pot roast roast salad salad isis superb superb and and the the unique unique all all you you can can eat eat platter platter of of beef, beef, roast roast ham ham and and leg leg of of lamb lamb at at 26,90€ 26,90€ isis not not to to be be missed. missed.

DJakarta baLi

ziti

Indonesian Indonesian cuisine cuisine

Italian Italian restaurant restaurant

Imagine Imagineaalittle littlegem gemof ofaaplace, place,serene sereneand and refined, refined,decorated decoratedwith withbatiks batiksand andJavanese Javanese puppets, puppets,just justaround aroundthe thecorner cornerfrom fromthe theLouvre. Louvre.

Classic Classic Italian Italian specialties specialties are are served served in in this this lively lively eatery eatery off off the the Champs-Elysées. Champs-Elysées. Starters Starters include include aa bresaola-based bresaola-based salad salad and and Parma Parma ham ham aged aged for for 20 20 months. months. Homemade Homemade pastas pastas are are on on the the agenda agenda with with for for example example linguine linguine in in tuna tuna and and tomato tomato sauce. sauce.

st 49 49 rue rueVauvilliers, Vauvilliers, Paris Paris 11st 4Metro: 4Metro: Louvre Louvre // Les Les Halles Halles 4Tel: 4Tel: 01 01 45 45 08 08 83 83 11 11 4Open 4Open every every day day until until 1am 1am except except Mondays Mondays 4Balinese 4Balinese dancing dancing on on Friday Friday nights nights 4Special discovery menu, the Rijsttafel: 4Special discovery menu, the Rijsttafel: 25-55 25-55e e 4www.djakarta-bali.com 4www.djakarta-bali.com

Enjoy Enjoydelicate delicatefoods foodsfrom fromJava, Java,Sumatra Sumatraand andBali. Bali.

th 460 460 rue rue Pierre Pierre Charron Charron ,, Paris Paris 88th 4Metro: 4Metro: Franklin Franklin Roosevelt Roosevelt 4Tel: 4Tel: 01 01 45 45 63 63 48 48 48 48 4Monday-Saturday, 4Monday-Saturday, lunch lunch and and dinner dinner from from noon noon -3pm -3pm and and in in the the evening evening from from 7pm-midnight 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr 4www.ziti.fr

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Parisian Distillery

A Daringly Delightful Distillery in the Heart of Town By Patricia Valicenti

t is an astonishing scene being played out behind closed doors on one of the leading fine food shopping streets in the city, the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. Inside a custom-made still, the only recognised one in town, is hard at work making, depending on the season, craft gin, flavoured vodkas, whisky or brandy under the Distillerie de Paris, 751301 Made in Paris label, which mentions the still’s authorisation number, 75 for Paris, 13 for the year 2013 and 1 as it is the first legal still in the city, and today the Distillerie de Paris (The Paris Distillery) is the only game in town. The micro-distillery, the brainchild of Sébastien and Nicolas Julhès, actors on the Parisian gastronomic landscape with the Julhès world of fine food shops, went into operation last January, becoming the first distillery in the French capital since they were banned a century ago. The family has its own bakery and bakery shop – Sébastien is the bread and grain specialist – chocolate-making manufacture, and gastronomic food shops carrying among other products wine, spirits, Italian specialties and fine cheeses and dairy products. Nicolas, who has worked in the world of spirits for several years, heads to the professional food market outside of Paris, Rungis, to find fine cheeses for the family shop, every day, explaining, “Our universe is taste”. Consequently the house is well placed to unearth the finest in fruits and other ingredients

from leading suppliers to use in the making of its fine alcohols. The house’s craft gin is fresh, lively, intense and flavourful with aromas of fresh citrus fruits, juniper and quinine, the ingredient in tonic water. The distillery’s gin-style brandy is a unique experience. It all starts out with a wine of the Folle Blanche grape variety, the very sought after variety used in cognacs. It is distilled into a brandy then re-distilled with juniper, citrus fruits and spices resulting in a fruity, dense and complex beverage. Meanwhile, the flavoured vodkas include the Lime, which showcases the universe of the citrus family ranging from bergamot to lime and citron, a large fragrant citrus fruit sought after for its thick white rind, while the intriguingly named Tea Time vodka is fresh with lively citrus fruits and spices winding up on a note of star anise.

For the Liquors JulhEs Paris 54 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis (10th), 01 44 83 96 30

La Grande Epicerie de Paris 38 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 81 00

To Savour in a Distillerie de Paris Cocktail Little Red Door 60 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 42 71 19 32

Le Jeu de Quilles 45 rue Boulard (14th), 01 53 90 76 22 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 77

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Pastries

Maxim’s at the Louvre Under the famous Louvre pyramid Maxim’s de Paris has opened a new boutique where you can discover the brand’s products in a fabulous Art Nouveau décor. Inside the Carrousel du Louvre boutique red and gold metal boxes with everything from creamy chocolate to foie gras are carefully displayed alongside bottles of champagne and wine. The boutique also features a counter bursting with colourful macarons and cream-filled choux that you can bite into as a treat after a day walking through the huge Louvre museum. - S.I. Maxim’s de Paris Boutique 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

It’s the famed macarons master and now Ladurée has collaborated with fine jewellery house Mikimoto to bring connoisseurs the Mikimoto Macaron, a limited edition macaron dressed in pearls. Mikimoto is known in the world of jewellery making for designing exceptional pieces, using precious cultured pearls, and for the pastry house this savoir-faire has been transferred to pastry making to create bijou-like macarons complete with a pearly reflection, reflecting the know-how of both houses. The edible jewel is a traditional macaron with two pearly shells filled with a soft rose and lychee flavoured cream and can be purchased individually or in box of eight, packaged in the Mikimoto Box, a gift box elegantly featuring a string of pearls. - S.I. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 75 08 75

Maxim’s © Eric Bienvenu

An Edible Jewel

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Beef Club - Bistro

(€€€)

As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

In the lively 2nd arrondissement and 2 minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Baudelaire - Modern Classic (€€€)

At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Julien Chamblas prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Bistrot Richelieu - Classic French (€€)

Le Lamfé - Classic French (€)

This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Goust - Gourmet (€€€)

Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterraneanstyle cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra

Kinugawa - Japanese

(€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 3-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchebem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L&D.

4 rue de Valois (1st), 01 42 96 72 20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)

This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Don Juan II - Gourmet (€€€€)

The Don Juan II is filled with the charm and elegance of a great yacht, offering a delicious cruise through the heart of Paris. In a calm and luxurious atmosphere enjoy the gastronomic cuisine of Guy Krenzer, who has been awarded the finest craftsman of France title. Daily D. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.45.14.71. M° Sully-Morland

Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)

Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only.

Goust | Gourmet (2nd)

L’Ambroisie | Haute Cuisine (4th)

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Address Book

des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro

(€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

Le Sergent Recruteur - Gourmet (€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie

Minimes - Brasserie (€€€)

This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L&D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert

Nos Ancêtres Les Gaulois - Classic French (€€)

Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

English restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

L’Agrume - Bistro (€€)

This delightful bistro near the Jardin des Plantes offers inventive dishes bursting with flavours. Chef Franck Marchesi-Grandi changes the menu nearly every day in his open kitchen. The service is friendly and casual. Tues-Sat L&D, Mon, L only. 15 rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel (5th), 01.43.31.86.48. M° Saint-Marcel/Les Gobelins

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet

(€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel

La Tour D’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-StBernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

Café de Flore - Bistrot (€€)

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is

Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Arpege - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Minimes | Brasserie (3rd)

Arpege | Contemporary (7th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 81

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Address Book multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)

Fauchon Le Café - Gourmet (€€)

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

L’Astor - Gourmet (€€€)

Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule

Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. Mon-Fri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Ratn - Indian (€€€)

Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Table du Lancaster - Fusion (€€€€)

Savy - Brasserie (€€)

This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Santoor - Indian (€)

A popular table for journalists, fashion designers and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Zen Garden - Chinese (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Alma-Marceau

Fine French gastronomy and international

Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips.

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only.

Le Lumière | Gourmet (9th)

Le Café Pouchekine | Café (9th)

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Address Book Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Café de la Paix - Classic French (€€€)

This classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. Daily B, L&D. 5 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra

Le Café Pouchekine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

Jamin - Classic French (€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th)

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles

Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Mamma Roma - Italian (€)

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16 , 17 )

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel th

This casual eatery serves delicious pizzas by the slice. Traditional pizzas are all served including the Margherita and the Capricciosa, as well as original fare like the Speck al Tartufo made with truffles, speck and buffalo mozzarella. TuesWed noon-11pm, Thurs-Sat noon-12am. 90 rue Oberkampf (11th), 01.47.00.37.90. M° Parmentier Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque

Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

Bon - Fusion (€€€)

Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette

Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine:

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

CookinG And tAstinG CLAsses Le Cordon Bleu

Learn about food, wine and cooking at this culinary institution for professionals. The school is one of the leading providers of hands-on culinary training and has Paris as a backdrop. 8 rue Léon Delhomme (15th), 01.53.68.22.50. M° Vaugirard

Lenôtre Cooking Classes

Every Wednesday classes in cooking begin in Lenôtre’s cuisine workshops for children. Ages 8 to 11 will make a recipe or a pastry while for ages 12 to 17, be prepared to whip up an entire menu. Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre, 10 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.65.97.60. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

L’Opéra Restaurant | Contemporary (9th)

Le Cordon Bleu | Cooking and Tasting Classes (15th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 83

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The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Turn to page 89 and enjoy a drink at Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf Photo © JPSALLE

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Shows

A Summer of Dance As part of the 11th edition of Les Etés de la Danse, the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre will be putting on 27 performances at the Théâtre du Châtelet starting from the 7th of July. The renowned dance company will be performing some of their known pieces including Home and Night Creature, as well as pieces performed for the first time in France including D-Man in the Waters (Part 1). Choreographed by Bill T. Jones and awarded a New York Dance and Performance Award (Bessie Award), D-Man in the Waters celebrates life and triumph in the face of loss.

Alceste-saison 2013/2014-Agathe Poupeney/Opéra national de Paris; Les Etés de la Danse © Paul Kolnik

Théâtre du Châtelet 2 rue Edouard Colonne (1st), 01 40 28 28 28

A Night at the Opera Christoph Willibald Gluck’s Alceste is being played out on the stage of the city’s opulent opera house, Palais Garnier. Directed by Olivier Py and under the musical direction of Marc Minkowski, the three-act opera tells the story of Admeto and Alceste’s everlasting love and the sacrifice they are both willing to make to save each other’s life. Call 08 92 89 90 90 to reserve your tickets. 8 rue Scribe (9th) w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 85

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I Need a Hero… Cocktail The cocktail bar team that brought us Candelaria, one of the city’s first speakeasies, and Mary Celeste, have another hit on their hands with Hero, the Korean restaurant bar in the 2nd arrondissement. Enjoy an original cocktail on the ground floor where the counter top is a cool pink marble and the service friendly. Try the Thug Life cocktail a frozen Soju-based drink that is a perfect cooling drink for a mid-summer night outing and which will go down well with the spicy Korean street foodinspired menu. You can order food at the bar or head upstairs where high tables and Chinese lanterns create a fun ambiance. Hero’s pulled pork bun is the popular dish here but the spicy sweet potato noodles, served cold, are worth a try. Open Tuesday to Sunday 289 rue Saint-Denis (2nd)

The recently opened Les Jardins du Pont Neuf, beautifully perched on the Ile de la Cité, is the local’s favourite new hotspot for a drink al fresco. Overlooking the Seine and with a view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, the new restaurant bar offers great cocktails to be enjoyed with an even greater view. Wicker chairs and imposingly balmy plants decorate the outdoor area while floor to ceiling windows open up the inside area with an inside/ outside vibe. Les Jardins du Pont Neuf also has a Riva Yacht 1962 Florida on-hand giving guests the opportunity to book a sunset cruise along the Seine. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06 30 15 83 02

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf © JPSALLE; Hero Photo © Danielle Rubi

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

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LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 190 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €190 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

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entertainment Bars

Latin Cocktail Hour Le Hibou, a traditional café and a popular meeting place for Parisians, has introduced an ephemeral cocktail menu at its upstairs bar, Le Nid. Inspired by South American drinks, the menu features classics with a twist. Try the Piscola Sour, a cola-flavoured take on the classic Pisco Sour or perhaps the Caipirinha Frances, using the basic ingredients for a classic Caipirinha the drink is given a French twist with a shot of mulled wine syrup. The signature drink here though is the El Che, a rum based drink mixed with tobacco liqueur, which is served with a chocolate cigar, coolly served in a retro ashtray. 16 carrefour de l’Odéon (6th), 01 43 54 96 91

Le Maze Near Rue Montorgueil, the pedestrian street popular with hipsters and the fashion crowd, is where you will find Maze, a stylish bar where cocktails are original and the ambiance very chic Parisian. Behind the bar you will find Ousseyne, the talent behind the inventive drinks, who uses Asian spices and liqueurs to infuse classic cocktails with a drop of originality. Blending together ingredients to being creativity to your glass the barman has put together a cocktail menu that is inviting to drink. Try the L’Amazing, a vodka based drink mixed with fresh passion fruit, vanilla syrup and Sichuan pepper, which brings out the sweetness of the passion fruit, or go for the Dragon Ball, a spicy red chilli infused sake drink sweetened with apple juice and cinnamon. This is a great spot for anyone who enjoys mixed cocktails with a twist.

Le Hibou © David Grimbert

Open from Tuesday to Sunday, 6pm to 2am 13 rue Tiquetonne (2nd)

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Concert

A Legendary Jazz Duo

Herbie Hancock © Douglas Kirkland

American jazz pianist and 22-time Grammy Award winner Chick Corea and American musician, composer and producer Herbie Hancock, who has won 14 Grammy Awards and an Academy Award for original soundtrack for Round Midnight, are together a musical explosion on stage. For one night only, Saturday the 4th of July, at the legendary Olympia music hall, this jazz duo will be performing together, each on a piano and creating exceptional jazz music, Hancock with his post-bop sounds and Corea with his electric jazz-fusion. Tickets at Fnac. L’Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th)

ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching

nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in

one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE SURVIVAL GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

100% IN ENGLISH EVERY WEDNESDAY / THURSDAY / FRIDAY & SATURDAY @ 8.30 PM Premium orchestra 37€ / First category 31€ / Second category 24€ Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

RESERVATION RECOMMENDED Not recommended for kids under 16 years old. +33 (0)6 98 57 45 98 www.oliviergiraud.com w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 89

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Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO

MOULIN ROUGE

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche

Crazy Horse Photo © Antoine Poupel

Crazy Horse

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DINNER & SHOW CHAMPAGNE & SHOW WWW.LIDO.FR 窶｢ + 33 (0) 1 40 76 56 10 窶｢ reservation@lido.fr 116 BIS AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSﾃ右S, 75008 PARIS

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Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Le Bar Brûlé

This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Private access is given to patrons as they step into a predominately black space with colours coming in through the bar from a street-art inspired background. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette

Bar Lenox

Elegance, comfort and harmony are the hallmarks of this cosy bar in the Hotel Lenox right in the Saint Germain des Prés district. 9 rue de l’Université (7th), 01.42.96.10.95. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for

Bar Lenox | Bars & Wine Bars

enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

champagnes are among the offerings. Nibbles are available as is a full dinner menu that changes weekly. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli

La Closerie des Lilas

Prescription Cocktail Club

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

Le Rubis

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Harry’s New York Bar

casino

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 4 Grey Goose cocktails at the city’s first ice bar. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Ô Chateau

You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° St-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

Badaboum | Bars & Wine Bars

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entertainment Address Book

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s only aphrodisiac restaurant and cabaret is a temple to glamour. Sensual savours are featured on the Aphrodisiac Menu like satay, sesame, hot peppers, cinnamon and ginger accompanied by a fine selection of wines and champagne. The show features 20 to 30 dancers in a jewel-box ambiance. 8:30pm-4am. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

The Penthouse Club

The world famous Penthouse club in Paris offers entertainment seven days a week from 10pm to 5am. Beautiful dancers, two floors, and three stages are all on the agenda in this venue just off of the Champs-Elysées. 13/15 rue de Berri (8th), 01.53.53.86.00. M° George V

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The stunning décor has been designed by Lenny Kravitz and his studio Kravitz Design. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Chacha Club

This Parisian nightspot plays host to a revolving

array of disc jockeys and special guests. The clubby atmosphere is enhanced by a restaurant replete with terrace and private dining rooms. Mon-Sat, 8pm until midnight for the restaurant, until dawn for the club. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Club 79

This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V

Le Duplex

atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

NY Club

This hot club is home to the best of electro DJs and where fashionistas and stars are flocking to for their showcases and their private parties. A glamorous and cabaret-like ambiance awaits you. 130 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.42.21.90.88. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

La Fidelité

Queen Club

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Paris Paris

This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club has a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. Tues-Sat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Réservoir

A wonderful night spot to listen to excellent music and discover new artists. The club has a bar with a diverse selection of mojitos and margaritas and restaurant serving excellent dinners followed by entertainment, Tues-Sat. Buffet jazz brunch on Sundays. 16 rue de la Forge Royale (11th), 01.43.56.39.60. M° Faidherbe-Chaligny

Le Showcase

Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby

Club 79 | Night Clubs

Palais Maillot

Attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultrachic Parisians listening to music from some of the capital’s finest DJs. 102 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.08.90. M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Non-members are admitted after midnight. Members have access to films, concerts and other performances. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd) 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

Secret Square

| Gentlemen’s Clubs

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Air France buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle ET OL S BO G Nfor Orly Airport/CLO (Roissy) from UL5:55am to 10:30pm E BA Chemin S U LT DA RU A E DU N E RO BO G S VA Vert E E R. F. R É UR SI Bréguet RU TT GE D E to Charles de Gaulle T ER departures from Orly EAirport RO DU TO ORLY AIRPORT OIS Sabin UE LFOR I D S R. E B Q R UE E S R . DU RU B O R. DE ME R RO E PAS DE IC I S DES ND . LE RU L A M RER B, direction U LOrlyval, Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (Onboard: 20€ Oone ELS St-Rémy, connects with ULE PLACEThe LA SO R IV EV E RT E A U HN OLI DES PL.DE LA MIRON O N N Alexandre X A R Charonne C H A Rround S RÉUNION VOSGESan automatic train, at way, 34€ trip/Online: 18€ one way, 30.50€ D EAntony. Orlyval runs every O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E S-Paul U E Pont R NE RU round trip). Frequency: every 30 minutes. Journey X Marie I 5-7 min, 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The RER C direction E E R CRO e RU TER ONN PLACE L A Porte de E HAR DE DRE Bastille DE LA R . connects with a shuttle busCthat S PORTE DE S T- Massy-Verrières takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles R. DE Montreuil DE XAN DE ANT R. ALE BASTILLE D E L A P RE U I L MONTREUIL OINE E CÉ V IL PE MONT Maraîchers D C R U E E S L LE de Gaulle R U then the OrlyVal goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the R U E to the Antony station ST E MR U Opéra Y Z INS CHAN TIT . DE L Bastille IV RON Buzenval R. A PE D 'AV R U E 20 min service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from D E L E S C L Uevery Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), ZE Rue des DU CER UA BL IS A I R. I D Boulets IE VD NR Ledru 'AN E Travel time HE R UAir France U S R 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. JO 5:35 am-11 pm (7.20€). buses leave from Rollin E Avron CH AM P N Sully V L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland B LV I L is about S LT betweenOthe two airports the Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) REU DE T E A N D RU O U Y M IR DE ULL RUE HU E minutes. NE E S 1 hour and 10 AU B O the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, FM° Etoile) DE R. IGN É D PLAINE URG LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A R. MO RN AYand Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant E Faidherbe www.aeroportsdeparis.fr IN A R. D B. FR

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France buses (08.92.35.08.20) leave daily from N DU IL L O 'O R EA Montparnasse (Rue duRCommandant Mouchotte, DES M E L U RG . D MÉNI L E IN R OU UX EL RU A UB H U Couronnes RM www.aeroportsdeparis.fr FAMontparnasse) 15th, M° and Gare de Lyon (20 bis. S . JO UE L B O U LA SU I DE R. Goncourt NG RO E IT E R LV D AM RON RUE AD blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare S T-M DU MA A U de Lyon),every 30 min, ARTI République Pelleport DE R. E ES N D S AIN R.D E ET LA R . DE ON N ES B A U FONT SL DU DOL M ES UR airport (Onboard R UE L'I LAY PLACE DE LA 6am-10:30pm, 6am-10pm, 3 C Ofrom R. TIM RUE RUE S A TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT DE CA R. DE NE ER FIL RÉPUBLIQUE N A Z AR P. M D U OR R B RB O LA : 17€ one way, 29€Sround ETH 3 R Etrip/Online: 15.50€ one AR DE R FE X Ménilmontant U E I E CH YA P NO IS P. Buses leave daily from the bus parking lotMon Blvd E O AL PA RS F VEN Temple ON R. D CA BI G LIE TIB AMP D ES U Eround trip). way,A26€ Buses also leave the Arc E TUR Kfrom VIL U R R Œ E N S O Hotel R. UF OB E Pershing near Concorde Lafayette (17th, JE A S Parmentier S R. RU RB deBTriomphe (1 ave 17th, M° Etoile), andO CRE.NDDERIERS TH DUP D ECarnot, IE .D OU ETI RUE O É AU S R E S Maillot). Mo Arrive 3 hrs and 15 min before H AR T UL C E N Porte P A R TA N T MU EDM S PLACE L Rue St-Maur R F P L AV T . NA P E D Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion StLACyr, 17th, M° Porte AU D M UR R. EZ DE VA RKA IS GAMBETTA TS R. RU E from Gare departure time T(13€). Or take TER train OB E LUE R R. B ELGR AN D A Oberkampf D SB Gambetta Maillot), every 30 min, 5:45 am-11pm (Onboard : . DE BET DE M D RÉP R A . ES GBeauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 du Nord to UBL L A Cmin), N O then taxi E e D UES IQ U R. NUE 17€ one S RU E N D one E way, 29€ round trip/Online: 15.50€ BR AV E RA E RU to airport. ET R. ERT PA R. B DE AG LE Père ST way, 26€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch Filles du PO OU NE Lachaise RE RT IS E Calvaire T O C LL BR .D VER E AN ES R. FR the Roissybus AM (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, FR St-Sébastien IN OISS R. S TRIE IS M L E E A TT Froissart RT DE R. ES CH P LP O EN TI R. Cimetière S DU M A I R. E TO U St-Ambroise 15 min between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 DE PONT AUX every RU TE T- S ÉB CHOUX TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES SD DU du Père R. S Musée ES Richard 4F Picasso R Lachaise Lenoir7pm and 10pm ILS UE min between andRevery 30 minues VO O D UR . D L DE GAULLE AIRPORT R. S T- CL A U DE E É L T E P E LA PE AI E RL E between R10pm and 11pm. (01.58.76.16.16). UE e RE VE E LL RU T TE EI RU EA

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13 12/06/2015 17:46

navigate

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.80€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.10€). This map includes the new tramway line.

96 WHERE Pa r i s I j u ly 2015

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 11.15€, 2-day 18.15€, 3-day 24.80€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty

Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. �� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. �� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com

w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 97

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My Paris

REMI LASHERMES

Head Concierge AT Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe Hotel

Makassar

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? I would recommend discovering the local Parisian market Marché Poncelet and to pass by the Orthodox Cathedral on rue Daru for its unique architecture. Walk down rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré to explore highend boutiques and have lunch at l’Absinthe where you will enjoy tasty French cuisine. Then walk through the Tuileries Garden, reach Musée d’Orsay to admire the Impressionists’s masterpieces. In the evening, take in a musical concert at Sainte-Chapelle for an unforgettable experience, a gem of Gothic architecture renowned for its stained glasses. For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? For a fantastic and traditional dinner, I would recommend Rech, famous Chef Alain Ducasse’s Michelin starred table. It features a cosy décor with an Art Deco-style, and serves an enticing list of house specialties such as the whole fish served for two people, or Rech’s own Camembert and super-sized éclairs.

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The fascinating Arc de Triomphe offers fabulous views of the twelve avenues, which surround it, especially the most beautiful of all, the Champs-Elysées. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? I like the chic and trendy atmosphere of L’Arc. It has been designed by Lenny Kravitz’s design studio and it is a great place to enjoy cocktails with a view of the Arc de Triomphe from the outdoor terrace. As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Parallel to the Champs-Elysées, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is an exclusive fashion street. From the Presidential Elysée palace to Place Vendôme, you will find all the major designers and independent high-end shops. Also, the Marais district has become a trendy spot of Paris to shop.

Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? Linking the River Seine to Bassin de la Villette, Canal Saint-Martin and its poetic locks offer a unique walk with local bars, restaurants and eclectic boutiques found in and around the neighbourhood.

My perfect day 9am Walk through Parc Monceau to visit Musée Jaquemart-André 12pm Lunch at legendary bistro Pichet de Paris 3pm Private river-cruise with a luxurious Venetian water taxi to admire Paris from a different point of view 9pm Dinner at Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe Hotel’s Makassar restaurant, serving fine French and Indonesian cuisine

where

Your Guide to the World

Remi Lashermes photo © Steven Frebourg; Canal Saint-Martin © Paris Tourist Office - Jacques Lebar; Parc Monceau © Paris Tourist Office - Amélie Dupont

Parc Monceau

Canal Saint-Martin

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The Chic Shopping

Destination

A MUST-SEE DURING YOUR TRIP TO PARIS: • Close to major tourist attractions • The best of French and international fashion and home design brands

• Cafés and restaurants with a view overlooking the river Seine & the French Statue of Liberty

• Centralized tax refund • Conciergerie & VIP Services • Free Wifi

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE SUMMER SALES • June 24th to August 4th 2015 Getting there: Boat (Batobus, get off at Beaugrenelle) - Subway (Metro) Line 10 Charles Michels, Line 6 Bir-Hakeim - Bus 42, 62, 70, 88 Opening hours: Shops: Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm - Restaurants & Cinemas: Monday to Sunday from 10am to midnight

BEAUGRENELLE PARIS - 12 RUE LINOIS, 75015 PARIS • WWW.BEAUGRENELLE-PARIS.COM •

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PRINTEMPS.COM

* Joyeux

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