Where Paris - June 2015 by Where Paris

J UNE 2 0 15 ®

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 257

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

Piège

Taste the Chef’s Culinary Art

JUNE 2015/#257

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RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES Dubai Abu Dhabi Doha Geneva Paris London Milan Monaco

www.richardmille.com

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CALIBER RM 07-01

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June PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

10 14

PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

The guide 20 SHOPPING

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

Jean-François Piège

58 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

Meet the talented chef and go on a culinary tour of his Parisian establishments

Our selection of restaurants

My Paris

84 ENTERTAINMENT

72 DINING

Head Concierge Philippe Lesigne shares his favourite things about the city of Paris

This month’s best events and bars 94 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings J UNE 2 0 15 ®

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 257

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

Piège

Taste the Chef’s Culinary Art

JUNE 2015/#257

FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS WP JUNE FRONT COVER NEW.indd 3

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ON THE COVER

Chef Jean-François Piège’s signature cod dish. Photo © Laurent Fau

THE PORTFOLIO IN PARIS ®

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Turn to page 36 to shop our Poolside Looks. Agathe wears: Hervé Léger one-piece swimsuit (www.herveleger.com), Dinh Van yellow gold pendant necklaces and yellow gold cuff bracelet (www.dinhvan.com), Gucci necklace and yellow gold Bamboo bracelets (www.gucci.com), Esther Vina shagreen cuff bracelet (www.esthervina.com)

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Dhobi, 2015 - Stainless steel discs - 134,5 x 264 x 167,5 cm

VALAY SHENDE June 19 - July 11, 2015 New address: 62, rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ 75008 Paris T + 33 1 42 96 39 00 paris@operagaller y.com Mon. - Sat. 10 am - 7.30 pm & Sunday 11 am - 7 pm operagallery.com

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Welcome to Paris

the team | where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and General manager

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR It is the world’s culinary capital and in this issue we celebrate one of the most talented chefs, Jean-François Piège, who has built a culinary empire in the French capital, which includes a fine dining establishment and a modern Parisian brasserie.

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42

EDITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton ART EDITOR Shelley Varley DESIGNER Grant Pearce PRODUCTION MANAGER/london Melanie Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANTs Richard Darani, David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* Designer and production Manager Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*

In this issue you will also discover the recently reopened Opera Gallery, which boasts an impressive selection of modern art, while at the Grand Palais an exceptional exhibition is held showcasing the works of Diego Velázquez. And if you enjoy the smell of roses you will love our Ravishing Roses feature taking you out of the city and to magnificent rose gardens. Shopping is a natural activity while in the fashion capital and in this issue we take you to the newest boutiques on the chic block and we take you on a fabulous stroll along Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. If you are heading to the South of France to soak in the sun make sure you turn to page 36 for our Poolside Looks photo shoot for sun-inspired fashions. Jazz and a music festival are also on the agenda this month as well as live concerts so make sure you turn to our Entertainment section for all dates and venues. It is also in this section where you will discover the recently opened speakeasy bar that is sneakily hidden behind a grilled cheese sandwich shop and the ephemeral event, Cointreau Fizz Privé that promises to be the hottest ticket in town. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Fashion Photographer Luigi Di Donna Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler MVP i CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman & CEO William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €80 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (OJD 2014). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: juin 2015. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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June

HOT DATES Discover the best of June in Paris

sunday

Prix de Diane The Chantilly racecourse is hosting the elegant Prix de Diane Longines today. The gates open at 11am and spectators are invited to watch as three-year-old fillies race to be crowned the best. The day also includes a special event concert and marquees where guests can mingle while enjoying fine champagne. Plenty of green space also creates the ideal spot for a chic picnic at the races. You can get your tickets at www.billetterie.france-galop.com.

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PARIS THIS MONTH

saturday

27 Sparks Fly at Versailles Walk through the magnificent gardens of the Château de Versailles as classical music is played and as the musical fountains put on an incredible show with music and light, coming to a spectacular end with a fabulous fireworks show. Visit www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr for all ticketing information.

Sunday

Prix de Diane © Scoopdyga; Versailles © T.Nava; Kids Day Out © Thinkstock

saturday

Kids’ Day Out Children’s store Miki House is hosting a fun day for all kids today with workshops organised to keep the little ones entertained from 10am to 6pm. Face painting, magic and nail art for little girls are all part of the program. 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 20 90 96

Roland Garros Make sure you get your ticket for the most important match, the men’s final, which is taking place today on the courts of the Roland Garros stadium. Visit rolandgarros.fft-tickets.com/uk for all ticketing information.

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs Mon 1 NATURALLY This show is a tribute to natural and holistic living. You’ll find organic foods, health and beauty products, home furnishings and objects as well as nature-oriented activities. The show is open from 10:30am-6pm. www.vivez-nature.com. Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

Mon-Wed 1-3 SALON DE MONTROUGE

saturday

This show, one of the oldest contemporary art events in France, is presenting a selection of works by some 60 international contemporary and emerging artists in a host of mediums ranging from photographs and sculptures to installations and digital creations. The show is open from 12-7pm.

A Zen Day

www.salondemontrouge.fr. Le Beffroi, 2 Place Emile-Cresp, 92120 Montrouge

Clear your mind with W Hotel’s SaturWAY offer and take a Strala Yoga class before enjoying a healthy buffet brunch at the hotel’s Coquette restaurant. Just in time for tomorrow, the International Day of Yoga.

Antique dealers and art galleries in the heart of the 7th arrondissement present fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces with this year’s theme being metamorphosis. The galleries are open from 11am-7pm.

Call 01 77 48 94 44 to reserve.

tuesday

16 Wednesday

Cinema Paradiso

Starting today and through to the 26th of the month, the Grand Palais will be hosting the Cinema Paradiso Cult Film Festival. Settle into a LoveSeat or snuggle in a bed as cult movies including Woody Allen’s Manhattan, Steven Spielberg’s Jurassic Park and Brian De Palma’s Carrie are shown on the big screen. You can check when movies are playing and get your tickets at www.fnac.com.

friday

A Night at the Opera

Listen to tenor Joseph Calleja and the Ile-de-France National Orchestra as they perform music by Verdi, Puccini and Tchaikovsky at the Théâtre des ChampsÉlysées. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 50 00

Wed-Sun 3-7 CARRE RIVE GAUCHE

www.carrerivegauche.com. Located in the Left Bank area bounded by the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

Sat-Sun 13-14 ART SHOPPING This show brings together the latest in affordable contemporary art from 400 French and international artists and galleries. You’ll find drawings, paintings, sculpture and design. The show is open from 11am-8pm, until 6:30pm on the 14th. www.salon-artshopping.com. Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

Sat-Sun 13-14 PORTES OUVERTES During this gathering some 100 artists in the scenic village of Le Pré Saint-Gervais just east of Paris open up their studios to the public. The event is an invitation to discover charming urban architecture filled with lofts, studios and courtyard gardens. The show is put on by the artist’s collective Ateliers-Est and offers a glimpse into the creative world of 100 artists, their techniques and works in progress. The venues are open from 2-8pm. Welcome point is located at Place du general Leclerc, 93310 Le Pré Saint-Gervais

Sun 21 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA MAISON DE POUPEE This delightful show brings together some 100 exhibitors offering a wide range of craft miniatures from around the world, enabling both collectors and newcomers to journey into the wonderful world of dollhouses. The show is open from 10am-5:30pm. www.simp-paris.com. Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte Champerret (17th)

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Profile

Jean-François Piège

aris chef Jean-François Piège, 45, is on a roll. One of the best of the new generation of French chefs who are revising and reinventing the French kitchen for the 21st century, Piège not only has a brilliant personal cooking style that displays a flawless equilibrium between the technical side of cooking and his deep capacity for culinary creativity, he’s also that rare chef who has a talent for all facets of creating and running a restaurant, from designing the dining room to fine-tuning the service, and making sure that it’s a successful business. Last December, he opened Clover, a new-wave bistro in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the storied neighbourhood in the heart of the Left Bank, and it’s since become one of the chicest tables in Paris for its intriguing modern take on bistro cooking. At Clover, the food is lighter, healthier and lessmeat oriented than in traditional bistros, and it also comes with a stylish décor and clientele, plus a friendly relaxed service style. The idea for Clover was conceived with his wife Elodie. “I wanted to create a restaurant with my wife,” explains the chef. “Our goal was to open a restaurant that would become a neighbourhood place, which meant it had to appeal to the book editors, antique dealers, and fashion people who make Saint-Germain-des-Prés one of the most sophisticated urban neighbourhoods in the world.” After finding a diminutive space in the rue Perronet, just a five-minute walk from the famous Café de Flore, the couple worked with stylish designer Charlotte Biltgen to create a twentyseat restaurant with a distinctive look that comes from its walls covered with cream-colored glazed Japanese raku tiles and diamond-shaped cedar shakes. “Since the space is so intimate, everything had to be aesthetically perfect,” says Piège, so he and his wife shopped table accessories for the

restaurant all over the world. They found the tableware in Venice, California and other pottery in Vermont, while the rattan-like chairs come from Sweden. The menu at Clover, which gets its name from Piège’s personal collection of four-leaf clover objects—“I love their form and the idea that they’re meant to bring good luck”—changes according the chef’s innovations and the seasons, but runs to dishes like puffed grilled quinoa wafers with eggplant and black sesame purée and steamed croaker fish with a thatch of pink turnip shavings in a succulent yellow pool of nasturtium flower juice. “In designing the menu at Clover, I wanted to create modern bistro style dishes that are healthy. So there’s a lot of fish and vegetables on the menu, and the kitchen adds almost no butter or cream to any preparation,” he says. There are still a few crowd-pleasing classics on the menu, however, including an exquisitely classical French dish or two, like a small fragile golden pastry tourte filled with wild duck meat and foie gras, topped with black truffles and served with a small salad of curly endive. Now he’ll be closing his eponymous Restaurant Jean-François Piège in the 7th arrondissement on the Left Bank at the end of June to move it to new quarters near the Elysées Palace, the French president’s residence in the 8th arrondissement, for a reopening in September. The new restaurant, which will also get a new name, yet to be determined, is being designed by Los Angeles-based Icelandic born interior architect Gulla Johnsdottir, whose edgy designs for the Grauman’s Chinese Theater and the Roosevelt Hotel in the Californian city have made her one of the most sought-after designers in North America. “I need more space,” explains Piège of his decision to move, adding, “I also want to completely reinvent my restaurant to reflect my

Photo © Rina Nurra

By Alexander Lobrano

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“...it’s important to allow people to choose what they want to eat rather than imposing a tasting menu”

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evolution as a chef, the way that Paris dining is changing, and also to present my ideas for what French haute-cuisine cooking can be in the 21st century.” Piège says that the new restaurant will “be about restoring the primacy of pleasure to haute cuisine. The formula for haute cuisine dining has become out-dated, and it’s too formal, too stiff, and ultimately fails to actually make very many people happy. When people step through the doors of my new place, I want them to relax, and I want them to instantly know that they’re going to have a good time,” says the chef, who is also planning a new menu for his re-launched restaurant. So the first thing people will see when they come through the door at his new table is the kitchen. “Seeing the kitchen is welcoming and relaxing,” says Piège, who also installed an open kitchen at his Left Bank bistro Clover. “I think it creates an intimacy, since people can observe that the cooking is being done just for them,” he adds. “I think that it’s fun to begin a meal with a series of small plates, like I do at Restaurant Jean-François Piège, but I also believe that a meal has to have a main course, and that it’s important to allow people to choose what they want to eat rather than imposing a tasting menu,” says the chef. “Some dishes from the current menu will be carried over, like the blanc manger, which is one

of my classics, but otherwise, the compass points of the kitchen will be seasonal produce, healthy eating, and gastronomic wit.” For my part, I’ll never forget my most memorable experience of Piège’s style of gastronomic wit. At the time, he was chef at Les Ambassadeurs, the restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon where he won two Michelin stars. Prior to taking over at Les Ambassadeurs, he’d been chef at the three-star Restaurant Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, so I was curious to see what this young Turk would get up to once he was serving his own cuisine rather than cooking in the service of a celebrity boss. Lunching with a friend who was visiting Paris from Monaco, our meal began with an assortment of rather magical miniatures, including a shot glass of horseradish spiked beet soup, a sublime royale (flan) of grey North Sea shrimp, a “cigar” filled with escargot butter, and a bon-bon of truffle butter to be spread on miniature wands of toasted baguette. Next, a dish of scallops served three different ways—as a fine hash with a grenobloise (pickles, hard-boiled eggs and capers) relish, as “chips”, and deep-fried with a side of cauliflower soup. This was spectacularly good food, so I could not wait for my main course to arrive—spaghetti carbonara. I knew it probably wouldn’t be

anything like the dish I often whip up at home, but this certainty turned out to be very much an understatement. What came to the table was a lozenge of Parmesan flan delicately wrapped in individual strands of spaghetti topped with a ridge of egg yolk and garnished with thick chunks of grilled bacon. It was a spectacular dish. Since he left the Hôtel de Crillon in 2009, Piège has built himself a delicious little empire in the 7th arrondissement along the rue Saint Dominique. His debut address there was Brasserie Thoumieux, a sexy brasserie that serves inventive modern French dishes like a “pizza soufflé”, a puffy pillow of delicate dough topped with tomato, cheese and herbs, and another riff on spaghetti carbonara, this one made with squid instead of pasta, a nod at the fact that the fashionable young clientele that frequent this place are often balancing their love of good food with calorie consciousness. He’s also opened Gâteaux Thoumieux, a patisserie; a delightful hotel, and his signature restaurant, Restaurant Jean-François Piège, the intimate supper club, which will transfer to its new quarters in the 8th arrondissement. A highlight of the menu here is the royale (flan) of chicken livers with crayfish under a foam of chicken livers, made according to an 1892 recipe by French chef Lucien Tendret. One of the best dishes to be

Brasserie Thoumieux ©StephanedeBourgies

Profile

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Portrait © Stephane de Bourgies; Dish © Rina Nurra; Pizza © Laurent Fau

Brasserie Thoumieux ©StephanedeBourgies

found at any restaurant in Paris, this delicate and beautifully made preparation seduces by matting tiny sweet crayfish against a backdrop of creamy earthy chicken liver mousse. Two other brilliant dishes from a recent dinner at this address were duck breast cooked rare and garnished with fine crispy strips of its own skin and a sauce of black olives, celery and pan drippings, and a veal chop with girolles and fresh almonds on a bed of finely sliced peaches, the fruit offering an intriguing background for the succulent meat. A native of the city of Valence in the Rhone river valley, Piège says that his gastronomic true north remains the cooking of his grandmother. “She was a wonderful cook, and I got my interest in cooking from her,” says the chef. Today, he and his wife Elodie live in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, for which he has a special affection. “I love the 1st arrondissement, where I live near the beautiful Place des Victoires, and I think it’s not by chance that it’s called the first arrondissement, because in many ways it really is the best. It’s dense and very cultural, with some of the world’s great museums, like the Louvre, but also narrow little lanes lined by old houses and small shops where people sell interesting and original things. One of the best new shops nearby is Terroirs d’Avenir (6-7-8 rue du Nil, 2nd arrondissement), which sells first-rate

produce from the best producers in France.” One of the busiest chefs in Paris, he relishes his Saturday mornings off, when he shops the open food market on the Avenue du Président Kennedy in the 16th arrondissement. Among the stands he recommends there is that of Joël Thiébault, the vegetable farmer who sells the seasonal crop from his farm just ten kilometres west of the Eiffel Tower in the Yvelines region. Piège also likes strolling the covered 19th century passages of Paris, especially the Galerie Véro-Dodat, and enjoys a night off from cooking at a favourite restaurant like Frenchie, chef Gregory Marchand’s popular modern French bistro, or Le Comptoir, chef Yves Camdeborde’s table in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Very busy though he may be preparing for the September move of his main restaurant, the decidedly ambitious chef is already nursing a dream for his next project. “In a couple of years, I’d really like to open a restaurant in Los Angeles. Elodie and I love Los Angeles, it’s a fascinating city with a great lifestyle, and we often go to California on vacation. So I’d love to open a restaurant in L.A. and perhaps divide my time between California and Paris. The produce in California is superb, and since L.A. is a really creative city, I think that Los Angelinos would be responsive to my style of contemporary French cooking.”

Before Piège goes to work on his American dream, however, le tout Paris is very eagerly awaiting his next French one in early September. And for anyone who’s fallen in love with this chef’s cooking and wants to recreate the pleasure of dining at one of Piège’s Paris tables at home, JeanFrançois Piège, a beautifully illustrated cookbook that makes his cuisine accessible to the home cook, was published in English by Flammarion this past March.

Brasserie Thoumieux 79 rue Saint-Dominique (7th), 01 47 05 49 75 Clover 5 rue Perronet (7th), 01 75 50 00 05 Gateaux Thoumieux 58 rue Saint Dominique (7th), 01 45 51 12 12 Restaurant JeanFrançois Piège 79 rue Saint-Dominique (7th), 01 47 05 79 79 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 17

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Feature

he Opera Gallery inaugurated its new Parisian venue on the 16th of April in the heart of the Golden Triangle, which is complete with an outdoor terrace to welcome the house’s museum-quality collection of works. The masters are all here as are the latest in emerging, contemporary artists. It’s akin to walking into a superbly decorated living space with the colourful, exuberant works of Niki de Saint Phalle, Jean Dubuffet and Alexander Calder all on and

around the walls. The gallery hosts individual and thematic exhibitions throughout the year with works emanating from their extensive collection. Abstract art, street art, photography and sculpture are all showcased here and the gallery is currently developing a design department. The 1000-square metre setting is breath-taking, offering the perfect frame for fine contemporary and modern art. The guiding principle of the gallery since its creation has been to offer international collectors access to a diversity of

artists ranging from the modern masters like Henri Matisse, Lucio Fontana and Andy Warhol to sought-after contemporary artists among them Marc Quinn, Lita Cabellut and Joe Black. It’s all about juxtapositions in which Picasso and Chagall are ensconced in the same airy exhibition spaces as intriguing contemporary art like Gérard Rancinan’s Batman Family. Created by Gilles Dyan in 1994, the Opera Gallery network, which consists of 11 Opera

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Opera Gallery, the Opus Continues

Batman Family en voyage, 2015 -Gérard Rancinan © Courtesy Opera Gallery

By Patricia Valicenti

Galleries around the world, is dedicated to art, enshrining a collection that is eclectic and remarkable by its scope and diversity and has locations throughout the world ranging from North America to Europe, Asia and the Middle East. The gallery collaborates, too, with museums and art centres around the world, recently putting on a show with 150 works from its collection at the Seoul Arts Centre entitled from Renoir to Damien Hirst, which gives an idea of the range of works in the house’s collection.

“Our approach is different. We are very generalist, we’re interested in art in general,” said Mr Dyan, the Opera gallery’s founder and the Chairman of the Opera Gallery Group. “We are very open, welcoming, to young people, too, we want people to be at ease,” he added. 62 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 96 39 00 Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm, Sun 11am-7pm

An Address Full of History The new venue is filled with cultural and fashionable history for it is where the headquarters of the perfume house of Roger & Gallet were once located. It was frequented by high society who converged here to discover the window displays of moving manikins and original art collections of artists like Mucha and Méheut. It would also become a fashion mecca when Gianni Versace opened his landmark flagship store here in 1991. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 19

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The Guide

Shopping

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | For Him | For Children | Beauty Break | Department Stores

Piaget’s new bejewelled haven. Page 22

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SHOPPING For Her

Chic Loafers The Left Bank has recently welcomed a bright new addition to its already illustrious list of boutiques. On Rue du Bac, standing out in the street thanks to its bright blue hue, shoppers will now find the new Chatelles boutique. The first Parisian boutique for the brand, clients are invited to discover the house’s popular loafers, handmade in Portugal using fine Italian leather. The loafers are available in a variety of colours with the possibility of personalising your pair by adding elegant tassels that are available in 18 different colours. Chatelles Boutique 94 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 22 20 46

Delicate Jitrois Famous for his leather collections, Jean-Claude Jitrois has always created the perfect pieces for the fashionista with an edge, and while his Spring/Summer 2015 collection naturally features vixen leather looks, it also includes some subdued pieces that work well into any wardrobe. Alongside mini leather dresses in scarlet red and sexy black you will also find feminine designs including this delicately embroidered romper. Jitrois Boutique 40 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 47 42 58 85

Another Tommy in Paris The French capital has welcomed a new Tommy Hilfiger boutique in the shopping district in the 9th arrondissement of the city, perfectly situated between the neighbouring department stores and Rue Cambon. Housed in a former bank, and across the road from the famous Olympia concert hall, the boutique is a sprawling space with the house’s latest collections for him and her beautifully on show. The recent opening, which coincided with the brand’s 30th anniversary, saw the fashion world’s socialites and French stars, including model Behati Prinsloo and socialite Olivia Palermo, come out to celebrate the double milestone. Wearing the designer’s latest collections, which include American football-inspired pieces, both Behati and Olivia wore pleated dresses inspired by the skirts worn by American cheerleaders. Tommy Hilfiger Boutique 43 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 42 60 70 02

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Perfectly Piaget A

The façade of the boutique captivates in deep black and grey punctuated by gold. Side by side with the two shop windows one can enjoy the show being played out in the “Vitrine Extraordinaire” where the house’s creations will evolve. This summer the star extraordinaire is the Possession Collection in a marvellous

merry-go-round of jewellery boxes designed by Soline d’Aboville. As it comes to life, the spectators discover the new campaign, “Possession. Turn and the world is yours.” Inside the elegant boutique the atmosphere celebrates the hand of man for no less than 20 different craft professions were called upon to create the precious interior. Parquet flooring and wainscoting in oak meet up with elegant, discrete furnishings. Here are the chests with gilded gold leaf while lamps crafted in Murano diffuse refined lighting. A brass chandelier is an invitation to the first floor -- reached by a transparent elevator – where a Japanese-style screen with delicate floral patterns leads into the space devoted to fine watches while an icon display window all dressed in gold beckons to the high jewellery collections.

The Piaget Altiplano 38mm 900P watch

Conceived as rooms of a home where ten people, among them a master watchmaker, who is there all the time, receive, the store presents the Piaget realm. The fine watch making space reflects the house’s Altiplano watch: discretion,

n elegant, convivial and contemporary experience awaits in Piaget’s new flagship store on the celebrated Rue de la Paix. The Maison’s high watchmaking and jewellery collections are showcased in this new place as well as the incredible know-how and craftsmanship techniques of its arts and craftsmen. The 7 Paix, as it is known, reveals the world of Piaget with all of the creativity it embodies. The address in and of itself is a mythical one for it is where the great French fashion designer Charles-Frédéric Worth opened his luxurious salons in 1858. Today it is the unique heritage of Piaget with its precious watches and jewellery that animates a luxurious space of 500 square metres.

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absolute elegance and total precision. Here one can admire the beauty of the manufacture’s calibres. Over the past years, twenty-five extremely flat movements have emerged among them the stunning tourbillion, the intriguing moon phase and the fascinating skeleton. They can all be enjoyed, too, on film, in the comfort of an armchair unless the visitor prefers to choose to peruse a book on fine watches from the house library or take in the tools used in the fine watch making professions.

“The 7 Paix brings to life the ensemble of the know-how of Piaget. It brings almost into reach the professions of fine watch making and High Jewellery making.”

The High jewellery universe at 7 Paix celebrates the art of the house’s master jewellers. The gold mosaic in the icon window was made entirely by hand. The magical jewellery windows displaying the sumptuous collections glimmer in full colour with emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, tourmalines and garnets while turquoise, opal, jade, onyx and lapis-lazuli are all part of the show.

SHOPPING

Advertorial

Necklace in 18-carat white gold set with tourmalines, emeralds and diamonds from Piaget’s Mediterranean Garden Collection

Piaget’s new setting is a continual journey. A VIP room opens up onto a charming landscaped garden with a Japanese maple tree, jasmines and osmanthus plants, a splendid magnolia tree surrounded by ferns, tall flowering grasses, forget-me-nots and hellebores providing the perfect place for Piaget’s celebrated and sought-after soirées. Meanwhile a world of enchantment unfolds on the first floor where the Mariage space, dedicated to marriage, is revealed. Here the rings and pieces of Piaget Passion are found along with a tempting Bridle Bar presenting a procession of wedding bands. Further along the gallery running alongside the windows looking out over the Rue de la Paix, a reception space has been conceived, a 21st century Piaget club with bookshelves, couches and mobile displays where temporary exhibitions, cocktail parties for clients or private dinners can take place. “The 7 Paix brings to life the ensemble of the know-how of Piaget. It brings almost into reach the professions of fine watch making and High Jewellery making. That is even more important in our eyes because we are one of the rare houses to have so many professions integrated within it. This place has been born from an ambition: to offer each customer a unique experience, his or her own”, says Olivier Perruchot, the Managing Director of Piaget for France and the United Kingdom. 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 62 37 00

Ring in 18-carat pink gold set with tourmalines and diamonds from Piaget’s Mediterranean Garden Collection

Bracelet in 18-carat pink gold set with diamonds from Piaget’s Mediterranean Garden Collection w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 23

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SHOPPING For Her

Luxury Leather Family-run luxury leather house Perrin combines the tradition of French savoir-faire with modern and graphic designs. In the recently opened boutique in the chic first arrondissement of the French capital, near the very fashionable rue Saint-Honoré, clients are welcomed in to discover the house’s latest collections. Founded in 1893, Perrin became the experts in glove-making and today the Spring/Summer 2015 collection features sexy leather cuff gloves with metal cuff detailing as well as elegant glove clutch bags, a subtle nod to the house’s beginnings. Perrin Boutique 3 rue d’Alger (1st), 01 42 36 53 54

A Slice of London in Paris Head to Marks & Spencer, one of the UK’s leading retailers, which you will find on the most famous avenue of the French capital, the Champs-Elysées. Open daily, here you will find on-trend fashion pieces for the entire family at affordable prices as well as British delicacies including English mustard and tangy salt and vinegar chips. Marks & Spencer Boutique 100 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 56 69 19 20

A Literary Collection Browse the latest Sonia Rykiel collection that is displayed in the house’s new library. The brand’s iconic Saint-Germain boutique has been transformed into a library, inspired by the literary café culture of the 6th arrondissement, where for the upcoming year shoppers can peruse books as well as fashion. Nestled between 40,000 books on floor to ceiling shelves, the Spring/Summer 2015 collection is an ode to the bohemian Saint-Germain-des-Prés lifestyle. Jumpsuits, soft knits and loose trousers creating long silhouettes make up the soft-toned collection and all feature the designer’s emblematic stripes, woven, knitted, printed and even painted on by hand.

Sonia Rykiel Library © Luc Boegly - 2014; Perrin photo © Perrin Paris

175 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 43 54 60 60

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SHOPPING For Him

From the City to the Sea The Spring/Summer 2015 ready-to-wear collection from De Fursac is both a seasidefriendly wardrobe as well as an urban-suited one. Cotton sweaters teamed with denim trousers are an ideal pairing for a day spent on a yacht, while chinos and cotton trousers worn with a smart polo shirt is perfect for an al fresco dinner. De Fursac has always aimed to create sharp silhouettes using the finest materials and marrying classic elegance and contemporary chicness, and with this new collection it is easy to see that the high-end house’s savoirfaire is well at play. De Fursac Boutique 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 53 43 05 00

Abstract Classics Raf Simons has collaborated with Fred Perry to bring gentlemen classic pieces with a twist. The Fred Perry X Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 collection is hugely inspired by abstract African designs that have been worked into Fred Perry’s classic items. Monochrome polo shirts are given life with colourful prints and patchwork while jackets are lined with vibrant prints.

A Watch to Watch Hublot has teamed up with the Italian eyewear manufacturer Italia Independent to launch a limited edition watch. The watch combines a new material, Texalium® and the iconic design of Hublot’s Big Bang. The case of the watch is in Texalium®, which is unique for it is in aluminium-coated carbon fibre. The advantage of this is that it can be designed in different colours while it also has a remarkable brilliance and remains light like carbon fibre. The Big Bang Unico Italia Independent is being made in two colours, grey and blue each produced to just 500 pieces. The watch features Hublot’s chronograph movement, the Unico, developed, machined and assembled entirely in-house. The movement is a flyback chronograph, which can be reset at any time, and the watch enjoys a power reserve of 72 hours and a handsome skeleton dial. Each watch comes in a customised Italia Independent display case and with a pair of Italia Independent sunglasses as a bonus gift. - P.V. Hublot Boutique 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 86 67 86

Fred Perry Boutique 26 rue des Rosiers (4th), 01 42 76 04 80

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THE CHIC SHOPPING

DESTINATION

HOW TO SHOP LIKE A REAL PARISIAN

We have all asked ourselves this question at sometime in our lives: “How do Parisian manage to look so chic, no matter where they are, or what they are doing?” Find all the answers to this intriguing mystery and more at the Beaugrenelle shopping mall, just a short walk from the Eiffel Tower.

A MUST-SEE DURING YOUR TRIP TO PARIS: • Close to major tourist attractions • 5 ﬂoors of boutiques • Centralized tax refund

• Cafés and restaurants with a view overlooking the river Seine & the French Statue of Liberty

• Conciergerie & VIP Service • Personal Shopper • Free Wiﬁ

Getting there: Boat (Batobus, get off at Beaugrenelle) - Subway (Metro) Line 10 Charles Michels, Line 6 Bir-Hakeim - Bus 42, 62, 70, 88 Opening hours: Shops: Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm - Restaurants & Cinemas: Monday to Sunday from 10am to midnight

BEAUGRENELLE PARIS - 12 RUE LINOIS, 75015 PARIS • WWW.BEAUGRENELLE-PARIS.COM •

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Shopping

Beauty Break

Atelier Atelier Cologne’s latest collection, Collection Azur, is a summer dream in a bottle. Coinciding with the house’s fifth anniversary, the collection of four colognes celebrates citruses, the traditional ingredient of cologne. Bottled in deep Venetian blue flacons that are presented with vibrant leather labels, each cologne is a refreshing scent reminiscent of a different summer getaway. Mandarine Glaciale is a Mediterranean escape with notes of Calabria mandarins and Egyptian jasmine while Sud Magnolia is an exotic voyage with notes of saffron flower from India and magnolia from Louisiana. Figuier Ardent takes you on a sweet voyage with notes of fig leaf from Provence and anise from Turkey while Cèdre Atlas is a sweet citrus cocktail of blackcurrant bud from Burgundy and cedar wood from Moroccan riff. Each cologne is available in a 100ml bottle as well as a refillable travel spray that comes with a brightly coloured leather case, which you can personalise by engraving your name, initials or even a special message on it. Atelier Cologne Boutique 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01 42 60 00 31

Time to Relax If you are looking to wind down after a day of shopping on the neighbouring rue Saint-Honoré or wanting to relax before a fine dining experience in the culinary capital, the Spa Burgundy by Sothys in Le Burgundy hotel is ideal. With two spacious massage rooms and spa facilities including an indoor swimming pool, sauna and hammam, the spa offers clients a haven to relax. Facials and body treatments are available for both ladies and gentlemen, with each treatment adapted to suit each client’s request using Sothys products. The spa also offers mani/pedis for young girls aged between four and eleven using children-friendly nail polish. Spa Burgundy by Sothys 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 60 34 12 28 WHERE Pa r is I j u n e 2015

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15 Galerie VĂŠro-Dodat, Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel. +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 - Fax: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 19 www.angelacaputi.com WP ANGELA CAPUTI.indd 1

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shopping

Advertorial

AzerbAijAn-born designer Fee dAn Interview by Kyra Brenzinger

resenting her first ready-to-wear 2015/16 Autumn/Winter collection at the InterContinental Le Grand Paris Hotel last March, young Fidan Alakbarli is completely in synch with the modernity of her country, which embraces other cultures. Fresh out of the Istanbul Fashion Design School, Fidan is a real globetrotter who splits her time between Azerbaijan, Turkey and the USA. Ultra-modern, her brand, ‘Fee Dan’ mirrors her personality. “I favour structured, feminine lines in my collections with oversized prints,” she explains in the sumptuous lounge of the Paris hotel. “I am inspired by Céline and Fendi because I design for active women seeking practical and chic clothing suitable for any occasion.” The Fee Dan 2015/16 Autumn/Winter collection comprises 50 styles inspired by the 70s. At 23, this young woman may not have been around in those Hippie years but she has taken the key symbols of the era and adapted them for modern times. “The oversized flowers are a real throwback to Flower Power and the tremendous freedom of those times! I attended Art Management classes in Chicago and this inspired me to create digital printing designs combining eastern and western influences. In the East, having a feminine image is very important. Flowers are a key theme on our traditional clothing and the great plains of the Caucasus. But for the colours, I went very modern with Petrol Green and bronze contrasting with navy and peacock blue backgrounds.” As a feminine woman, she has designed many dresses, with her first Barbie dolls doubling as her first models! But her target is not Barbie-type women but, rather, the modern, self-sufficient woman. Her dresses are both highly structured— with belts nipping them in at the waist—and flared, ending above the knee or at the ankle for a grown-up look. The puff sleeves are the perfect complement to the plunging neckline. Another more understated flower motif is reproduced

as a pattern and combined with ultra graphic, contemporary ‘V-shaped’ stripes. A dress opens in subtle fashion, with an insert revealing part of the stomach. Faux leather flared skirts play on length with the front shorter than the back to give the impression of long legs. The ultrabold, leather-style shorts are combined with a mini-skirt which opens at the front. Femme fatale women may opt for the long skirt with its ultra-feminine slit or a trouser-bustier suit to show off the shoulders. For

an office chic look, the mottled grey wool jacket embellished with a pretty bolero open on either side is perfect with free-flowing, wide-legged

“With my new 2015/16 Autumn/Winter collection presented in Paris, the focus has shifted to the 70s which are huge right now.” black trousers. Or for a rock chic look, women may choose to pair the deep red faux leather jacket with the contrasting 70s flower trousers. For visual impact, Fidan has artistically lined the opening of a chic and understated dress with buttons of varying sizes. “My collection is ready-to-wear art,” laughs the designer, her eyes sparkling. “I draw a lot during my trips which are hugely inspiring. I am designing for women who own their femininity in a very modern way. But I also enjoy working with retro styles like in my first collection presented in 2014 in Istanbul, which paid tribute to the 60s. With my new 2015/16 Autumn/Winter collection presented in Paris, the focus has shifted to the 70s which are huge right now.” Fee Dan runs a showroom in Istanbul and her collection is also available to buy in her online store. But her ambition has pushed her to exhibit in Europe and the USA. “Presenting my collection in the ‘New Couture’ showroom during Paris Fashion Week was a dream for me because Paris remains the fashion capital of the world! My biggest hope is to get my collections into the main department stores in Europe and the USA, where I should be moving soon.”

FEE DAN Tel: 00 905 304914602 Email: fi_alakbarli@hotmail.com Online Store : www.fee-dan.com

Destined for success, Fee Dan is lucky enough to be surrounded by fairy godmothers who are sure to grant her wishes! w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 31

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Shopping

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Fabulous

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

t’s the world’s fashion capital, showcasing chic avenues, posh boutiques and more importantly beautiful pieces to add to a stylish wardrobe. One of the most famous rues in the French capital for luxury shopping is Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Aligned with high-end boutiques of French fashion houses including Lanvin and Hermès, it is every fashion visitor’s dream destination. This month we bring you a handful of boutiques on the chic street that will elegantly complete your wardrobe for this season, from suits to earrings. With Artistic Director Alber Elbaz at the helm, Lanvin offers the fashion-obsessed a Spring/Summer 2015 collection that caters to a jet-setting lifestyle. Gentlemen will find a biker-inspired collection at number 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré with pieces that are at once urban chic and daring. Suits with deconstructed jackets with no lining or shoulder padding give men a more relaxed look. Cuts are looser and baggier while accessories are statement-making with messenger bags and belts featuring chains. Meanwhile, at number 22 ladies are invited to discover the latest collection inspired by an urban paradise. Flowing dresses, thin, jewellery-inspired straps delicately balancing on shoulders, wide belts cinching the waist in and soft silk and satin shirts moving fluidly make up the key pieces that can easily take you from work to dinner and beachside drinks. Across the road at number 24 the famous Hermès flagship boutique with its creative windows awaits. Inside are the luxury maison’s iconic Kelly and Birkin bags as well as the house’s equally emblematic accessory, the carré. Made from 100% silk, the scarves’ hems are hand stitched and feature print patterns created by a number 32 WHERE Pa r i s I j u n e 2015

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Lanvin photos © Lanvin

of designers and artists. Designer Ljubomir Milinkov has created a number of prints for the house including Bateau Fleuri, featuring a pastel-coloured sailboat with fluttering butterflies. Gentlemen can also add a touch of silk to their dapper look with silk pocket squares. Available in different prints and colours, including a 45cm x 45cm Hermès orange square featuring large Hs, the squares can easily add a touch of colour to even the most sombre of suits. Fine jewellery house Vhernier’s elegant boutique sits at number 63 and behind its discreet façade the Italian house’s 2015 collection of striking jewellery is presented. Inspired by a voyage to Asia and the Middle East the collection features six lines, each showcasing the craftsmanship of the house. The Plissé (pleats) line takes inspiration from the art of origami with the rose gold and white gold delicately “folded”, giving rings, bracelets and earrings a multi-faceted surface that reflects against itself and the light. Also playing with the light is the Eclisse (splice) line of rings that luxuriously plays with light and shadow. The rose gold ring is almost sliced in the middle, revealing two stones on either side, bouncing colour and light off of each other.

It’s the house that inspires and conjures up sexy evenings and at number 20 La Perla displays the season’s latest, and seductive, offerings. Specialising in high-end lingerie, the Italian house’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection blurs the lines between outer and inner wear with tulle embroidery and graphic ribbing that can cheekily and discreetly peek through a shirt. Bodysuits highlight the blurred lines trend with pieces that feature laser-cut detailing and overlapping tulle panels, creating contemporary pieces that can be elegantly worn with a tailored suit. And over at number 29 beauty giant Lancôme’s boutique showcases the hottest shades and all the must-have beauty products to complement the season’s fashions. The house’s summer make-up collection, French Paradise, is a voyage along the Mediterranean. Cream blush in coral and rose hues give cheeks a sun-kissed look while the Hypnôse eye-shadow palette features azure, indigo and marine blue shades for a summery take on the smoky eye. Nails get the sea blue treatment as well with the Bleu Lasure nail polish colour, taken straight from the colour of window shades of seaside houses. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 33

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SHOPPING

For Children

Junior Fashions

Big Trends for the Little Ones

British high-end brand for children, Paul Smith Junior, recently opened its first boutique in the French capital. On the Left Bank, in the posh 7th arrondissement, the boutique, complete with its blue façade, is a welcoming address for all fashionable children, from tots to teens. Once inside, the boutique comes alive showcasing the house’s latest collection and is animated with the Hornby train set, which circles the window. On the ranks children will find quirky and colourful t-shirts as well as smart trousers and jackets, but always with a youthful touch.

Rompers and stripes are all the rage this season for adults and this trend has not left the young ones behind. Chloé’s Spring/Summer collection for young ladies features this sunny and bright jumpsuit, a perfect piece for fashionistas who want to be like mum. Meanwhile, Boss’s collection for the younger gentleman features polo shirts and t-shirts with the season’s hottest detail, stripes. Both brands are available at Atelier de Courcelles boutiques including 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 45 05 19 50

Paul Smith Junior Boutique 24 blvd Raspail (7th), 01 53 63 08 74

A Luxury Service If you’re visiting Paris with your children and don’t know quite what to do with them, Baby Prestige is a luxurious service that could be ideal for you to get professionals to organise an itinerary for you. What started off as a childcare service has now become almost a concierge service dedicated to children, though always using highly trained professionals who can handle young children and teenagers. Cultural activities and entertainment workshops can be easily organised to show your children around Paris and keep them entertained, making their trip to Paris very memorable. Themed itineraries include Sooooo Parisian, which starts off with a perfume workshop where children can create their personalised scent, followed by lunch at one of the city’s popular tables before embarking on a shopping spree. For a fairy-tale day, the Il Etait Une Fois (Once Upon a Time) itinerary will take your children to Disneyland Paris where studio visits, rides and lunch at Cinderella’s inn all await. Reservations are required and personalised days are also possible to create the perfect day for your children. www.baby-prestige.com

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Shopping

Department Stores & Shopping Centres

Galeries Lafayette

BEAUGRENELLE

LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN

This elegant and luminous shopping centre overlooking the Seine houses a fine selection of chic and elegant boutiques devoted to clothing, accessories and the home, along with food shops, restaurants and a cinema. This environmentally friendly complex has a green roof welcoming a bird refuge, beehives and green walls. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Cinema and Restaurants: Mon-Sun 10am-midnight.

Art, beauty, technology, leather goods and more are found under the famous inverted pyramid at the Louvre in the Carrousel du Louvre. A unique shopping venue, it brings together a collection of boutiques that are opened every day of the year. 10am – 8pm, even on Sundays.

12 rue Linois (15th). M° Charles Michels

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

Printemps’ exquisite world of Luxury and Accessories, spread out over 3 floors, plays host to a splendid collection of luxury houses and the most sought-after labels. Printemps de l’Homme, the very first to dedicate an entire shop to men, houses six floors of menswear and a men’s salon. International Designers, an entire floor dedicated to trendy new designers, is home to prestigious fashion designers with the space created by fashion visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou. Printemps de la Beauté features two floors of products and beauty supplies as well as a spa and beauty salon. La Scent Room is a unique concept that offers only exclusive luxury brands that you won’t find anywhere else. Printemps de la Mode is one floor entirely dedicated to shoes while Printemps de la Lingerie carries 80 labels . On the 6th and 7th floors of the Printemps Beauty/Home store are fashions for children.

BHV/MARAIS A department store known for its great homeware selection and appliances as well as a good selection of top brand names for women and children. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed 9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm. BHV Homme – a shop exclusively dedicated to men (36 rue de la Verrerie). 14 rue du Temple (4th), 01.42.74.90.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

LE BON MARCHE

99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.43.16.47.10. M° Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre

This elegant department store carries top brands including Chanel and Chloé. There’s a wonderful lingerie department, a children’s concept store, restaurants, wine bars and a tea room as well as a cosmetics and perfume section. Lafayette Homme – A separate building housing men’s fashion and accessories. Lafayette Maison & Gourmet(Across the street) a home décor shop and delicious gourmet offerings. Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm, Thurs until 9 pm. 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

One Nation Paris

The oldest department store in Paris and the only one on the Rive Gauche. Extremely chic, with a great selection of ready-to-wear, household goods, cosmetics and lingerie, all under a lovely glass roof. And the entire basement floor is dedicated to men. Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm, Thurs & Fri until 9pm.

With 90 boutiques, this is the largest outlet shopping centre in France featuring luxury and fashion brands including emblematic houses like Cacharel. Clothing for the whole family, accessories, lingerie and home ware are all on the agenda. A shuttle bus service is available, reservations required. Daily 10am-8pm.

24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone

1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01 72 87 90 11. SNCF from Montparnasse direction Plaisir Grignon, get off at Villepreux Les Clayes

Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm, Thurs until 8:45pm. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00 M° Havre-Caumartin

LA VALLEE VILLAGE A village-like shopping outlet on the city outskirts offering discounts of up to 60% on a hundred luxury labels including Armani, Burberry, Tumi and Ralph Lauren. Mon – Sun 10am – 7pm. Shopping Express Shuttle bus departs from the centre of Paris twice a day at 9:30am and 12:30pm. 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min). w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 35

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Shopping Fashion

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Poolside

LOOKS Photographer: Luigi Di Donna Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Hair Stylist and Make-Up Artist: Julie Mandin Model: Agathe from VIP Models Post Production: Marc Martinon Fashion & Production Editor: Sandra Iskander Location: Hotel Majestic

Hervé Léger bikini (www.herveleger.com) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch (www.audemarspiguet.com) Gucci yellow gold and rose gold rings (model’s right hand) (www.gucci.com) Dinh Van yellow gold ring (model’s left hand) (www.dinhvan.com) Esther Vina 24-carat gold-plated brass necklace (www.esthervina.com) Gentle Monster sunglasses (www.gentlemonster.com)

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Valentino Vox bikini (www.valentinovox.com) Gucci gold bracelet (modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s left hand) (www.gucci.com) Jojoba gold-plated copper bracelets (modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right hand) (www.jojobadesigns.com) Italia Independent velour sunglasses (Available at Galeries Lafayette)

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Lisa Marie Fernandez one-piece swimsuit (Available at Le Bon MarchĂŠ) U Collection visor (www.magasins-u.com) Omega Seamaster Ocean Planet watch (www.omegawatches.com) Gaydamak Jewellery yellow gold, turquoise and diamond earrings (www.gaydamakjewellery.com) Esther Vina gold-plated and turquoise cuff bracelet (www.esthervina.com)

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Eres bikini (www.eres.fr) Esther Vina gold-plated bronze crocodile skin necklace, reptile-print 24-carat gold-plated bronze cuff bracelet and gold and turquoise ring (www.esthervina.com) Jojoba gold-plated copper bead necklace (www.jojobadesigns.com) Maison Michel straw hat (www.michel-paris.com)

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Darjeeling one-piece swimsuit (www.darjeeling.fr) Lanvin necklace and bracelets (www.lanvin.com) Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe watch (www.blancpain.com) Persol sunglasses (www.persol.com)

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Emika Paris one-piece swimsuit (www.emikaparis.com) Gaydamak Jewellery yellow gold, turquoise and diamond earrings (www.gaydamakjewellery.com) Jojoba gold-plated copper bracelet (on modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right hand) (www.jojobadesigns.com) Esther Vina copper, 24-carat gold-plated and turquoise bracelets (on modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s left hand) (www.esthervina.com)

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SHOPPING

Vintage Advertorial

Timeless Renaissance On the Left Bank, where the real Parisian style lingers, Corinne Than-Trong invites you to Renaissance. The elegant vintage boutique is ideal if you are looking to update your wardrobe with timeless pieces. Haute Couture dresses await alongside previously loved bags and ornate jewellery pieces. This is a great address for all vintage lovers of Chanel, Dior, Hermès, YSL, Pucci and Balenciaga. 14 rue de Beaune (7th), M° Rue du Bac / +33 685 430 352 www.renaissancevintageparis.com facebook.com/Fashion Vintage Paris

L’Ibis Rouge This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery including pieces by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL and Dior. You will also find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th), M° Sèvres-Babylone +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge

Paris is famous for its flea market where lovers of vintage sped hours scouring the stalls and shops looking for previously loved and unique pieces. One of the flea market’s treasures is Olwen Forest, the owner of her eponymous boutique specialising in vintage jewellery. Although the boutique is known for its selection of jewellery, it is also here where shoppers will find a fine selection of cocktail accessories. Art Deco crystal martini shakers, sterling silver champagne buckets and even ice tongs can be found, with unique pieces from luxury French houses including Christofle and Baccarat. Olwen Forest Boutique Marché Serpette Stand 5, 110 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen, 01 40 11 96 38 Open from Saturday to Monday

Olwen Forest Cocktail Accessories © Frederic Poletti

Vintage Cocktail Hour

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Monday : 2 PM to 7 PM Tuesday to Saturday : 11 AM to 7 PM Subway station Passy on Line 6

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Catimini - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.44.71.06.23.

Accessories Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Alfred Dunhill - 15 rue de la Paris (2nd), 01.42.61.57.58. M° Opéra Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Misterchrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. M° Opéra Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine S.T. Dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.45.61.08.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th),01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Carita - 11 Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Emmanuel Levain - 4 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.23.39.91. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Jovoy Paris - 4 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.40.20.06.19. M° Tuileries Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V L’Artisan Parfumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. M° Pont Neuf Lancôme - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie M.A.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon

Tikibou Toy Store

| Children’s Clothing & Toys

M° Madeleine Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Kids Around - 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.05.19.50. M° Victor Hugo Miki House - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries Petit Bateau - 116 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.40.74.02.03. M° George V Tartine et Chocolat - 24 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.42.10.68. M° Opéra Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

clothing: Men & WoMen Alain Figaret - 18/20 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.40.06.94.90. M° Madeleine

Anne Fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8th), 01.40.73.78.01. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Banana Republic - 22 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th),

01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. M° Madeleine Carven - 34 rue St Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00. M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Emanuel Berg - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 84 52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Ines de la Fressange - 18 rue Commines (3rd), 01.42.76.90.23. M° Filles du Calvaire Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac

Kenzo - 27 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.61.04.14. M° Madeleine Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Levi’s Store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. M° Georges V Maison Kitsuné - 52 rue de Richelieu (1st) , 01.42.60.34.28. M° Pyramides Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Montagut - 90 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.05.73. M° Concorde Mulberry - 275 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Tuileries Rowena Forrest - 23 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.65.25.46. M° Sèvres-Babylone Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt

eye WeAr Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

Italia Independent - 47 rue du Four (6th) ,

01.42.22.40.34. M° Saint-Sulpice Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

hoMe decor Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Boutique Talents - 26 ave Niel (17th),

01.44.40.22.80. M° Pereire/Ternes Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde Gien - 18 rue de l’Arcade (8th), 01 42 66 52 32. M° Madeleine Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber

Kids Around | Children’s Clothing & Toys

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Address Book

La Tuile à Loup - 35 rue Daubenton (5th), 01.47.07.28.90. M° Censier-Daubenton Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1 ), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier - 7 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01.44.54.03.03. M° Saint-Paul Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bvlgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 2 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opera DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 21 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.11.17. M° Tuileries Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), M° Concorde Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon, 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra st

Wempe

Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20.

Mulberry - 207 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),

Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées

Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39.

M° Opéra

(8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Waskoll - 19 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.98.94. Mº Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

lingerie Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22.

M° Madeleine Eres - 2 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.47.42.28.82. M° Madeleine La Perla - 20 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde Maison Lejaby - 5 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.65.06.77. M° Concorde

luggAge And BAgs Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach (available at Printemps) - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. M° Havre-Caumartin Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue St. Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Masha Keja - 10 rue de Jarente (4th), 01.47.45.62.58. M° Saint-Paul Moynat- 348 rue St. Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries

| Jewellery & Watches

01.42.60.00.64. M° Tuileries M° Madeleine

Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Multi-BrAnd Boutiques By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° George V

Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th),

01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Ann Tuil - 63 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.42.25.67.31. M° George V A.Testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. M° Concorde Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. M° George V Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

vintAge Dépôt Vente de Passy - 14 rue de la Tour (16th), 01.45.20.95.21. M° Passy Didier Ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. M° Pyramides L’Ibis Rouge - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. M° Sèvres-Babylone Renaissance - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. M° Rue du Bac

Carita | Beauty Spas & Products w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 47

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LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

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Poltrona Frau • Silvera

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Escales • Elsa

Debauve & Gallais •

& Voltaire • Zadig • Karl Lagerfeld

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RUE DES CANETTES

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RUE SERVANDONI

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ES SA RU E D’OD

8 rue de Sèvres - Paris 6th Tel: 01 45 44 08 74 www.durance.fr

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

RUE MA BIL LON

BOULEV

For Durance, Provence is both a heritage and an inspiration. We compose a well-being universe of indoor fragrances, natural cosmetics and elegant perfumes. Our wide range of refined fragrances are elaborated by our master perfume-makers in Grasse.

•

Poiray Inédit Joaillier Christian • Mauboussin BO •• ULE Louboutin • Façonnable Ke RUE • Cremieux • VA R nz DE L Louis DS Pau o• • ’A B • Agent AIN B AY Ralph l Sm Vuitton Provocateur Walter T-G E Lauren • i t E Steiger h• l’A R • • M • AIN The Slowear Pa rtisa Brunello Cucinelli rfu n • Store me Burberry Hugo SAINT-GERMAIN ur • Voyeurs • • Paul Smith Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Boss Armani Paul & Joe• • Shadé • • • Césarée L.K. Cartier • Céline • Ventilo Bennett Lancel • Ferragamo Rolex• MABILLON • Dinh Van • Vicomte A Hackett• • Montblanc Carven • Crockett & Jones • Kenzo • Robert • Alexis Mabille • • J.M. Weston Clergerie L’Ibis Rouge • Saint Laurent • • Sportmax• • Marina • Tod’s Prada Rinaldi Dot-Drops • U FOUR La Perla Alain Mikli • • D Durance • RUE M.A.C.• • • Le Mont Repetto Implicite Omega S Saint Michel Berluti • • ÉVRE • S Saint E • • RUE D • Swatch Longchamp RUE DE BABYLONE Laurent • • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE • Longines SÉVRES-BABYLONE Agnès b • Courreges • Hermès Robert • ULPICE Zadig Clergerie RUE ST-S & Voltaire • My Tokki ES Le Bon VR SÉ Marché • Rowena E • Forrest D E Église Saint-Sulpice RU • Guerlain IÉR ES

• Wolford

DURANCE

Gab&Jo

•

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SHOP STOP

EJ AC

Francis Klein • Faienceries •• de Gien Emaux de Longwy Fabrice

S PA IL ARD RA

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 / www.mydotdrops.com

Green

• Aubercy

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

T-G

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• John Lobb UL Bang EV AR • & Olufsen DS • AIN Edward BO

SAIN

• Vanier

RUE DU BAC

DOT-DROPS®

TS-P

Cassina

RUE

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SHOP STOP

RUE FÉROU

30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com

FRANCIS KLEIN This family-run brand offers hand-made, out of sight glasses and accessories. All made in France, their collections cater to all looks, offering glamorous and original frames allowing you to wear a piece of Paris every day. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

ED EL ’UN

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Jardins du Luxembourg

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Champs-Élysées-Montaigne SHOP STOP

Arc de Triomphe

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Kenzo

GEORGE V Louis • Vuitton J.M. Weston

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• Versace Dior • • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo Caron NUE M • Akris • ON Chanel Givenchy TA • Chanel • IGNE • • Fendi Dinh • Céline Chloé• • Van • Saint Laurent Loewe •• Pucci •• •• Ralph Lauren Dolce&Gabbana Gucci Blumarine LT EVE S.T.Dupont OOS Elie Saab • LIN D.R

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

RUE

FRAN Ç

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AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Armani Collezioni JP Gaultier PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S Omega • EOR ERB UE G IE N Eric Bompard• E AV • Bvlgari Brioni • • Dubail • • Longchamp • Zegna U Leonard Ulysse Nardin CEA • • R Waskoll • A Creed Altan Bottier EM Christofle • NU • E • AV Arije Cartier •Givenchy Scabal • • Chaumet Kusmi • Tea • Arije •EORGE V Beretta RUE UE G N Paule Ka E • P • IER AV • RUE MARBEU RE Ann Tuil • Sicis • Emmanuel F •Tom Ford CHARRO Levain N Zilli • RUE • DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • Balenciaga A TR •Smalto RUE • ÉMO By Marie&Gas Bijoux ILLE M Wolford Diane Von • ARBE Furstenberg • Balmain Berluti UF • ALMA MARCEAU • Karl Lagerfeld• Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino • Courrèges Paul&Joe • AVE • Harry • N U Pink EM Giorgio Armani Winston O AN • Prada• • NTAIGN • ARIGN MaxMara RUE M Bottega Veneta • E • Giorgio Armani Nina Ricci • • • Maison Ullens Louis Vuitton

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

SHOP STOP

RUE BALZAC

LA B

RUE DE PONTHIEU

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

EA RC

BERETTA GALLERY

• Swarovski • Bang & Olufsen • GrandOptical • Milady

SHOP STOP

Beautifully tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting are found in this gallery boutique. High quality, refined accessories, stylish and sturdy shoes and boots and gear for the great outdoors are hallmarks of the brand.

•

76 ave des Champs Elysées – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 42 56 18 53 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com

Montblanc

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Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

• Cartier

FRI

Lancel •

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The first European Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch collection available in Paris with more than 500 references from their traditional watch collection such as the Le Locle Automatic to the most innovative watches with the T-Touch Expert.

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

D’IÉ

NUE AVE

TISSOT BOUTIQUE

NUE

AVE

AVENUE D’IÉNA

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•Comptoirs de Paris

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• Quicksilver •Adidas • Banana Republic •

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FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

ATIG

NON

NFÉRENCE

EMMANUEL LEVAIN Step into the exceptional world of this house devoted to fine and fragrant scents. The Paris boutique of this brand - founded in Geneva carries perfumes, scented candles and home fragrances designed for well-being and serenity. 4 rue Marbeuf – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 23 39 91 www.emmanuel-levain.com

KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

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POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY T I S S OT T-TOUCH EXPERT SOLAR. TACTILE WATCH POWERED BY SOLAR E N E R G Y, O F F E R I N G 2 0 F U N C T I O N S I N C L U D I N G W E AT H E R F O R E C A S T, A LT I M ETER AND COMPASS. INNOVATORS BY TRADITION.

TISSOT S H O P. C O M

BOUTIQUES TISSOT 76, AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES – 75 0 08 PARIS LES 4 TEMPS, NIVEAU 2 – 92 092 PARIS LA DÉFENSE ATELIER HORLOGER TISSOT, GALERIE DES ARCADES, 76, AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES – 75 0 08 PARIS

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LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré SHOP STOP

New Boutique

•

Richard Mille UE

•

Walter Steiger

•

MATIGNON

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

Leica•

• Emanuel Berg • Sothys

Steiger

•

Puiforcat Azzaro • Vhernier • F.P. Journe

VHERNIER

•

Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.

Pierre Cardin

•

63 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: 01 40 17 93 15 - paris@vhernier.fr www.vhernier.com

• Miu-Miu • •

• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Apostrophe • • Christian Louboutin • Pomellato Bui • Barbara RUE ANJOU •Bally •Blumarine •Burberry • Brunello Cucinelli • Ermenegildo Zegna Salvatore Ferragamo Lancôme • • • Heurgon • Glashütte Original • Jitrois Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Janssens Chanel • • Boucheron & Janssens Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

ES RB HE ES AL DM AR EV UL

MA EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

Chanel

DD ES CA

INES

AR PU CIN

APUC

RUE

DES C

Weston

• Zwilling BO

Hedgren • • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • Roberto • Cavalli Hervé Léger Jimmy Choo Messika • • Morabito • • Viktor&Rolf Chloé • • Emporio Armani Ports • • Dior DsQuared • • Miki House Tumi • • Omega J.M. • • de Grisogono R U E CA ST

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

• BCBGMaxazria DE

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

•

Marella

•

Église de la Madeleine

• Eres • Swarovski • Durance

RUE DE RIVOLI

•

RUE TRONCHET

•Anne Fontaine

Arije

MADELEINE

•

•Longchamp

T H U R IN

•

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje •

MIKI HOUSE

Oliver Grant

ULE

•

Césaire

•

ES MA

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

S Q U IE R

Baccarat

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

•

Marina Wempe Rinaldi Lancaster • •G. Lotti Kenzo• •Max Mara

Michael Kors •

RUE PA

•

Les Dandys

Crockett &Jones

•

’A N J O

•

CONCORDE

RUE D

Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci • • • Ralph Lauren

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Poiray Quartz

•

•• •

iso

• ni • to es n • A.T rgo u He aud • ard e rn qu • Be Lali by • eja nL

Lanvin La Perla Prada Escales

• Capelstore

RUE D

•

Lanvin Berluti

• •

Place de la Concorde

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

366 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 40 20 90 98 www.mikihouse.fr

ÉS

Frette •

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

Superb quality and unique style are the hallmarks of this Japanese house of children’s fashion and style. Every collection is conceived with the child in mind. Fashioned in workshops in Japan, the clothing is made from fine fabrics and imbued with practical, functional and unique touches. Open Mon-Sat 10am - 7pm.

ÉR

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

SHOP STOP

Montagut

Élysée Palace

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

Caron

B AM

IG LI O N E

Place Vendôme

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LUXURY MAP Le Marais SHOP STOP BV

ARS

Liquides

RUE

S RUE

DES

YM E

D EB EL LE

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APC

RU E CH AR LO

TEMP

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TO NG E

VIEIL

RUE

RU E DE SA IN

DE THORIGNY

CH AR LO T

RU E

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

RUE

RUE DU TEMPLE

Melinda

• Gloss

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

RUE

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

TEMP

RUE DU TEMPLE

PE RL E

Tsumori Chisato

RUE PAY ENN E

VI GN É RU E SÉ

LE DU

RUE

RUE PAVEE

MIRON

ARLEM

AGNE

Village Saint Paul ■

• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane • Les Exprimeurs PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier •

RUE CH

• Iki •Pierre Boisset

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

ANÇOIS

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

RUE RUE DE LOBAU

DE TURENNE

S É V IG N

LHE

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

RUE

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch L’Occitane

Sentou

•

RIVOLI RUE DE

HOTEL DE VILLE

Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d ue Diptyq in Guerla

VIEIL

•

RUE DU TEMPLE

Nicolaï

RUE

•

10 rue de Jarente - Paris 4th Tel: 01 47 45 62 58 www.mashakeja.com

Bonton •

Mi-Mai • Ambali • • RUE BARBETTE Manoush • • Jamin Puech Officinal Slowear • • Aesol Paul & Joe • Marionnaud Paris RUE DES FRANCS BO Penhaligon’s • URGEOIS Ted Musée • •Esteban • Carhartt Fragonard • Baker Carnavalet RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • URGEOIS Barbara •• •• • Iro • Michael • • • Essentiel Bui Uniqlo Aubade •• • Kors • Eres da RUE DES BLA NCS MAN o a TEA UX • &S Te ry Devernois Guy Degrenne • • Scoth Kusmi d Per Maje • • e • r Créa Concept Alain Mikli L’Argenterie Wolford • •RFU • Cos E D ES R de Turenne O • • SIERS • • Heschung• • All Saints • Moustaches RUE DU PLATRE Durance Cire Ugg Paule Ka RUE DE JARENTE Huygens Skeen • K.Jacques • • • Trudon Thomas Sabo• Masha J.Crew Vicomte A • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE Carven Keja • • •Fleux • Gucci • Lacoste • • Mode en Thierry Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Barbara Rihl• Demeure • Givenchy • ILE Karl Lagerfeld • • • Le BHV Marais Moncler • • RUE DU ROI DE SIC Chevignon • l’Homme • Fendi N TO IN E • RU E ST -A Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E • IVOLI SAINT-PAUL

Le BHV Marais

Everyday couture bags, this would describe the Masha Keja style best. Established in Paris since 2008 the brand presents a fabulous range of bags and wallets, crafted in France in rare materials and unique handmade techniques.

• Moulin Roty

RU E DE LA

R RUE DE

MASHA KEJA

Betjman & Barton

ENN

SHOP STOP

RE •

TUR

19 rue de Turenne, Paris 4th Tel : 01 42 72 04 00 www.argenteriedeturenne.com

E E D

This elegant shop carries carefully chosen fine antique French silverware. Superb objects like knives, forks and spoons that have traveled through the centuries are found here side by side with tea services, unusual objects and cutlery sets from leading silversmiths.

L’ARGENTERIE DE TURENNE

UD RI ET TE

RU E DE S HA

• Merci • Atelier HOUX Oska • AUX C Ami • Cologne • ONT DU P E U R Les Prairies ST-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• Helmut • Lang de Paris FROISSART • ITOU Christophe • DE PO E U E • Lemaire R • Gant UD CLA APC T • S • E Stephane Sonia Cheap RU Marcel by Verdino • Rykiel Monday •Surface to Air Wooyoungmi • Nice • Customellow • Things • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Tom • Vanessa Bruno • • Greyhound • Les Petites •Mr • Bonastre • Le Mont Saint Michel FredMarzo • La Fée Ann Tuil • Maraboutée ■ • Consuelo RU E DE S 4 FI LS Musée National Picasso • Zoelly ENN

•

Le Slip Français

TUR

SHOP STOP

État Libre d'Orange RUE PASTOURELLE

E E D

106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: 01 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

A IR E

RU E CH AR LO

Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

ILL

• DE 13 Bonaparte Isabel •NOR• MA Marant N Monsieur Lacenaire • • Ron Dorff DIE Monsieur Paris • Mes Demoiselles • RU E DE BR ET AG NE

LOUIS QUATORZE

ENN

• Verreries de Brehat

TUR

RUE DU TEMPLE

E E D

Carreau du Temple ■ The Broxen Arm La Boutique RU E PE• Extraordinaire • RR ÉE

M IN E

HOU

COM

IT T

CALV

PET

S DU

F IL L E

RUE

RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

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la Concorde

• •

Église de la Madeleine

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Kenzo

Marella

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Le Jacquard Francais

MA DE

el Ch

NE APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

ÉR

•

De Fursac

Lamarthe

• PYRAMIDES

Acaba •

RUE RICHELIEU

b •M rielle a G

id •Q ier Lu ee do •G lin t

ep pe bs rt

L’O

• • • • • • • •

Palais Royal

•D

RUE VIVIENNE

Pie

rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens w i A son en Ste cne Fab s lla Stu re Mc di Ca os rtn ey

RUE DE RIVOLI

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Christian Louboutin

All Saints Y’s

•

Maje

Hartford

Esprit Bonpoint IRO

• • • •

• Galerie Véro-Dodat

•

by Terry Xavier Lust

• •

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

• • •

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

’OP

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

E NU

L DE

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

PALAIS ROYAL

CIN

•

Printemps du Louvre

SHOP STOP

E NU

•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

•

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•

RUE SAINT ROCH

Frey Wille

•Jo Malone •M.A.C •Bonpoint

RUE DES PYRAMIDES Carrousel du Louvre

Place du Marché St-Honoré

Opéra Garnier

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

ONORÉ

•

•Cotélac

n15

RUE DE LA PA IX

•Paraboot

The Kooples •

RUE S A IN T -H

Peuterey • La Prairie •

WEMPE

IG LI ON E

• Place Vendôme • Goyard • Guerlain •Dodo •Dubail Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka• •Moynat TUILERIES •Stuart Weitzman Perrin • •Balenciaga • Akillis •

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

LEI

Roberto • • E CA MB ON Cavalli • Tom Ford • • Messika• Hervé •Jimmy Choo Léger Morabito• • Viktor&Rolf Chloé• •Emporio Armani Ports • Jamin •Dior DsQuared2 • Puech • Miki House Tumi• •Omega Arije J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

Talbot Runhof Kiehl’s • • Barbara Rihl Colette • Chantal Thomass•

• Zwilling

Hedgren

• RU

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

• BCBGMaxazria

Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje•

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Swarovski

RUE DE RIVOLI

• Vertu Wempe • Lancaster •

• Chanel

279 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 36 44 40 www.michaelkors.com

MADELEINE

•Césaire

Dior

••

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

•

RUE SAINT-FLOREN TIN

• Oliver Grant •Baccarat

RUE ROYALE

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

MICHAEL KORS SAINT-HONORÉ

Jardin des Tuileries

Gucci

•

RUE ROYALE

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

•Lanvin •La Perla •Prada Chanel •Pinko

INES

CONCORDE

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai A.Testoni

Burberry

•

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

RUE DU FBG ST-HONORÉ

Place de

ofle •

•

SHOP STOP

rist Ch

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

RUE JEAN-J ACQUES ROUSSE AU

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Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT LAZARE

Guerlain •

DE CA RU ED

ES M

BOU

ATH

URIN

HUR

RUE MOG ADOR

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

INS

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

•

Sephora Fragonard • ES CR IB

• Episode

Talents

Église de la Madeleine

•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

Opéra Garnier

•

RUE

CAUM

RUE

ARTI

GOD

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RUE

VIGN

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• Le Tanneur

•

Bucherer Tag Heuer Samsonite

•

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

Lancel

•Boggi • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS

•Basler Waskoll Tommy N A. Lange Omega • • Christofle BO Hilfiger & Söhne • AM C • Repetto E U Mauboussin R • Lalique Cartier • Hugo Piaget • Diesel Boss Panerai • Jimmy Choo X IWC • PA I Dinh Van • Viktor&Rolf Van Cleef • E L A Breitling • • • De Fursac Louis Vuitton & Arpels • E D• Jaquet Emporio Armani • RU• AnshindoDroz Cartier Dior Bvlgari Dubail • • Harry Winston Miki House • •Vacheron Constantin •• • • •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex • Desigual Jaeger•Boucheron • • RU LeCoultre E • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LL • E CASA Kusmi Tumi • • Blancpain Kusmi N O Tea VA • Chanel Tea J.M. Weston • Chopard • • Piaget Chaumet • • • • Hublot Breguet • RU • • Patek Philippe Place du Marché ED Frey Wille Damiani ES PE • Saint-Honoré TIT Dior • • Hackett

MADELEINE

Lacoste

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C AP

AIN

T-A

DES

RUE

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

10 Place Vendôme – Paris 1st Tel: +33(0)1 42 86 67 86 www.hublot.com

DES

RUE

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Fauchon

HUBLOT

LEV

Andrea

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

•

From watch complications and revolutionary materials to world class collaborations such as FIFA World Cup™ and Ferrari, this unique Swiss watch company characterizes itself through the “Art of Fusion” philosophy, bringing tradition into the future.

Galeries Lafayette Homme

•

SHOP STOP

P R O V EN

• Moda di

RU E JO UB ER

TIN

’AR

L DE

RUE DE

•

VICTOIRE

ADOR

HAVRECAUMARTIN

LA RUE DE R U E JO U B ER T

Printemps Mode

Printemps Beauté-Maison

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references. 40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Printemps Homme

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Galeries du Diamant •

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

Passage du Havre

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SHOP STOP

S-C

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Tourist Office • PYRAMIDES

Acaba

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•

Perrin

Malone ••JoM.A.C • Bonpoint • Colette Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

Missoni

• •

•

LA DE E RU

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EC ED

3 rue d’Alger – Paris 1st Tel: +33(0)1 42 36 53 54 www.perrinparis.com

•Frank Namani

Luxury leather accessories company PERRIN PARIS cuts the ribbon on its Paris flagship just steps away from the Place Vendôme. Renowned glove makers and tanners since 1893, PERRIN is best known for their eponymous Glove Clutch and their uniquely conceptual designs of handbags, gloves and sunglasses-all made from the finest quality skins.

• Jovoy

PERRIN

•

-H

H.Stern Arije

IÉR

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PUBLI-REPORTAGE

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

THE DEPARTMENT STORE CAPITAL OF FASHION* Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references. Situées en plein cœur de Paris, à deux pas de l’Opéra Garnier, les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, symbole de l’élégance parisienne, s’étendent sur 70 000 m2 et proposent plus de 3 500 marques, des plus abordables aux plus prestigieuses.

THE DEPARTMENT STORE, CAPITAL OF FASHION Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. LE GRAND MAGASIN, CAPITALE DE LA MODE Les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann proposent une large sélection de produits : mode, accessoires, beauté, décoration et épicerie fine.

FASHION SHOW Enjoy a unique experience with Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann fashion show. The only place in Paris where you can discover the latest designs and the trendiest products for women and men. Fashion shows take place on Fridays at 3pm. Opera Lounge, 7th floor, main building. Reservation or information at +33 (0)1 42 82 30 25 or fashionshow@galerieslafayette.com DÉFILÉ DE MODE Vivez une expérience mode avec le défilé des Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann. Lieu unique à Paris où vous découvrirez les dernières tendances de la saison et les it-produits à ne pas manquer pour femmes et pour hommes. Chaque vendredi au « Salon Opéra » à 15 heures (7è étage, magasin principal). Réservation et information par téléphone au +33 (0)1 42 82 30 25 ou par e-mail à l’adresse suivante : fashionshow@galerieslafayette.com

VIP SERVICES Discover our exclusive tailored services provided by experts in fashion and lifestyle. We will open the doors to our privileged services and areas in which we will exceed your expectations. LES SERVICES PERSONNALISÉS Laissez-nous vous ouvrir les portes d’un univers luxueux et exclusif. Nos experts en Mode et Art de vivre à la française vous offriront une expérience unique à travers des services sur mesure.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN - 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE - Open Monday through Saturday from 9.30 AM to 8 PM - Late opening every Thursday until 9 PM Ouvert de 9h30 à 20h00 du lundi au samedi - Nocturne jusqu’à 21h00 le jeudi - Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ * le grand magasin capitale de la mode

Galeries Lafayette Geolocation Application. Download for free: Application de Géolocalisation des Galeries Lafayette. À télécharger gratuitement sur :

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Turn to page 62 to discover Antoine Schneck’s portraits

Asera © Antoine Schneck

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Exhibitions

Marvellous Masters

Custodia, Francesco Primaticcio, The Dance of the Horae (Hours of the Day), c. 1547/48 Red chalk, red and white wash, heightened with lead white, 358 x 335 mm © Städel Museum, Frankfurt am Main; Philo Irène, Jardins, Jardin Aux Tuileries. Photo © Aude Sirvain; Roy Lichtenstein, Live Ammo (Tzing!) 1962, The Doris and Donald Fisher collection at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art© Estate of Roy Lichtenstein New York / ADAGP, Paris, 2015 © SFMOMA

An exceptional ensemble of drawings by Italian Renaissance masters is being exhibited at the Fondation Custodia with close to 90 works on loan from the Städel Museum of Frankfurt. A wide selection of drawings representative of the period from 1430 to 1600 are on display including some that are being revealed to the public for the first time. Masterpieces of the 16th century by Raphael, Titian and Michelangelo are among the works being showcased in the rooms of the lovely Lévis-Mirepoix mansion, which houses the foundation. The 15th century opens the journey with an exceptional mourning scene by Marco Zoppo, circa 1470. Fra Bartolommeo and Michelangelo in Florence, Raphael in Rome and Titian in Venice would leave their mark on Italian art between 1500 and 1525. This generation working in the early period of the Cinquecento would produce pioneering works that influenced their epoch like Michelangelo’s Grotesque Heads, also part of the show. Through June 21 121 rue de Lille (7th), 01 47 05 75 19

Glorious Gardens Gardens within a garden can be enjoyed in a delightful event that is being held for the 12th time this year, Jardins, Jardin, in a king of gardens, the Tuileries. The event celebrates nature and the world of flora in an urban milieu. Twelve vast gardens ranging in size from 50 to 150 square metres are created each year by prestigious landscape designers and presented to the public along with some 20 terraces and balconies. Close to one hundred exhibitors are on hand presenting gardens to be visited, plants, flowers and seeds as well as garden accessories and furnishings. Workshops, conferences and competitions round out the agenda. June 4 to June 7 11am-6pm on the 4th, 10am-8pm on the 5th and 6th, 10am-7pm on the 7th. The Tuileries Garden

Incredible Icons The great 20th century American artists are converging inside the Grand Palais in a rich exhibition entitled American Icons: Masterworks from the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the Fisher Collection. The show presents 49 emblematic works taken from one of the world’s largest collections of art from the second half of the 20th century. The selection focuses on the paintings and sculptures of 14 American artists with most of them belonging to a generation of painters who followed Abstract Expression. Andy Warhol, Alexander Calder, Roy Lichtenstein and Ellsworth Kelly are among the masters on display with Calder and Kelly illustrating the early developments of abstract art. Pop Art, which appeared in New York in the 1960s, is incarnated by celebrated works by Lichtenstein and Warhol. Meanwhile, Minimalism, which also emerged in New York in the 1960s, and the beginnings of conceptual art take shape in the works of Carl Andre, Dan Flavin, Donald Judd and Sol LeWitt. Richard Diebenkorn is among the artists representing pictorial abstraction. Through June 22, Galeries Nationales, Galerie Sud-Est, ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 59

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arts&attractions

Grand Palais Exhibition

Variations of Velázquez By Patricia Valicenti

here are the portraits that have gazed out through the ages, paintings of the Spanish court of Philip IV, like the alluring equestrian portrait of Prince Balthasar Charles, along with the other masterpieces like Venus at Her Mirror, Pope Innocent X and Apollo in the Forge of Vulcan.

The intriguing, diverse and splendid works of Diego Velázquez unfold in an exceptional exhibition devoted to the Spanish master at the Grand Palais. Born in Seville in Andalusia in 1599, Velázquez is regarded as one of the most important figures in the history of art. Edouard Manet called him “The painter of painters”. He was the leader of the Spanish school, the official artist to King Philip IV at a time when Spain dominated the world and a contemporary of van Dyck and Bernini. He was a masterly portraitist but was also skilled in landscape and history paintings and in his youth genre scenes and still lifes. Velázquez began his career in the studio of the painter and theoretician Francisco Pacheco at the age of 12 in 1611. At the time the Spanish city of Seville was a hotbed, a European crossroads with everything new heading to or coming from the New World. The city enjoyed a cosmopolitan population and a thriving economy guaranteed by gold arriving regularly from the Americas, making for an atmosphere propitious to the development of the arts. Velázquez would spend six years with Pacheco frequenting the elite of Seville before heading to Madrid to try his luck at court. His first attempt was unsuccessful but he was finally appointed painter to the king in 1623, the start of his social ascension, which led him to the highest offices in the palace and brought him close to the sovereign. His career was marked by two decisive trips to Italy and the birth and death of successive heirs to the throne. The artist died in 1660. Although one of the world’s most famous artists, this is the first monographic exhibition devoted to him in France. The rarity of his paintings, just a little more than a hundred, and their natural concentration

in the Prado Museum in Madrid have made it difficult to organise a full retrospective. The exceptional show, in which 57 works by Velázquez are presented, in Paris came into being through the efforts of the Louvre and the Grand Palais in collaboration with the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna and with generous support provided by the Prado. Among the exceptional loans is the Portrait of Pope Innocent X on loan from the Galleria Doria Pamphilj in Rome, regarded as a universal icon of art history. The exhibition seeks to present a full panorama of his works from his beginnings in Seville to his last years as well as the influence that his art had on contemporaries. The first part of the show evokes the art world in Andalusia at the beginning of the 17th century putting into perspective the early works of Velázquez and recreating the atmosphere in the studio of Francisco Pacheco where he trained. It then goes on to explore the naturalistic and picaresque vein of his painting through kitchen and tavern scenes and covers the transition

from his early painting in Seville to his first Madrid period. Here one finds two versions of the Immaculate Conception, one executed circa 1617, the second, a masterpiece of his Seville period dating from 1618-1619. There is also an intriguing tavern scene par excellence and the Three Musicians, the one in the centre is blind, in an inn. Other works, notably portraits of Saint Thomas and Saint Paul with powerful contrasts, illustrate Velázquez’s discovery of Caravaggism. The second part of the exhibition focuses in on his first trip to Italy, his landscape paintings, a little known aspect of his works, and his historical works. Here is the powerful Forge of Vulcan painted by Velázquez during his stay in Rome around 1630. It depicts Apollo announcing to Vulcan the infidelity of his wife, Venus with Mars. The section also looks at Balthasar Charles, the heir to the Spanish throne, who Velázquez would paint at various stages in his life for example on horseback, in armour or with a dwarf. The portrait of the prince on his pony, with the outskirts of Madrid

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Diego Velázquez, La Forge de Vulcain vers 1630, Madrid, Museo Nacional des Prado © Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado; L’infante Marie-Marguerite Vers 1654, Musée du Louvre, département des Peintures, Paris; Diego Velázquez, L’Immaculée Conception, 1618-1619 Londres, The National Gallery © The National Gallery; Diego Velázquez, Portrait du pape Innocent, Huile sur toile, Rome, Galleria Doria Pamphilj © Amministrazione Doria Pamphilj srl

visible in the background, executed in 16341635, incarnates the hopes of the future of the dynasty. The prince would die in 1646 just before turning 17. The mythological, sacred and profane painting of Velázquez is shown here as well with the fascinating and enigmatic Venus at Her Mirror being a high note of the section. The third part of the show is dedicated to the last decade of the painter’s life and reveals his importance as a portraitist initially at the court of Madrid and then in Rome during his second trip to Italy. Here in this section of the exhibit is the portrait of the Infanta Maria Theresa wearing a majestic wig dotted with sparkling butterflies. The final portion also looks at his influence on his followers known as the velazqueños. It winds up with two selfportraits by Velázquez and an unfinished yet powerful white horse. Through July 13th Clemenceau entrance 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) 01 44 13 17 17 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 61

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Olwen Forest

arts&attractions Exhibitions

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Penetrating Portraits A series of detail-oriented portraits of painted faces emerges in the photography of Antoine Schneck currently being showcased by the Galerie Berthet-Aittouarès in its new exhibition space. The precision of the framing is further magnified by the photographer’s signature black background. The show, entitled From Burkina Faso to Ethiopia and Other Encounters, reveals a world of exceptional beauty. The artist’s latest journey took him to Ethiopia where he encountered a visual fête: bodies, painted and adorned, sculptured faces hovering somewhere between masks and paintings. The visitor meets the striking gaze of Asera, a long look from Berlana and the mystery of Baro Tula.

Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès

Through July 4, 14 rue de Seine (6th), 01 43 26 52 09

Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

Galerie Taménaga IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Collectively Contemporary

MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Gris, Klee, Chagall, Bonnard, Buffet, Soutine CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano

18 avenue Matignon - Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

A tasteful, collective show of four contemporary artists is being played out in the luminous exhibition spaces of the Taylor Foundation. There are ephemeral landscapes, animals in motion and moments of silence from Hélène Legrand who depicts subjects that are threatened with disappearing from the face of the earth. Works on show from Françoise Maillet unveil the city in urban concoctions on canvases of accumulations of rooms and possessions. Intriguing fragile sculptures in porcelain and Plexiglas from Daria Surovsteva are unique in and of themselves and beautiful, while the engraver Manuel Jumeau presents works that are graphic and whimsical at once. The show also offers an opportunity to explore this spacious art venue devoted to the patronage of contemporary artists and located in a quarter of Paris that drew artists, authors and actors in the 19th century: La Nouvelle Athènes. From June 4 to 27 1 rue de la Bruyère (9th), 01 48 74 85 24

Berlana © Antoine Schneck; Taylor © Hélène Legrand. Souche du bois des louves

Exhibition: A New Era for Japan Artists: O Jun - Kengo Nakamura - Sohei Iwata Date of Exhibition: June 3-16 / Opening Night: June 3

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arts&attractions Day Trips

oses have fascinated mankind for centuries, emerging as symbols of not only love and beauty but of war and politics. The cultivation of roses most likely began some 5000 years ago, possibly in China while during the Roman period they were grown largely in the Middle East. Valued for medicinal purposes and in perfume making, they were also used during celebrations, often as confetti. The infamous 15th century Wars of the Roses in England brought roses into the political limelight with the white rose being the symbol of the House of York and the red the House of Lancaster. And today, the fabulous flower remains as an object of admiration and cultivation. France and the Paris region burst with famous and beautiful rose gardens, generally in full bloom in the month of June. The Jardin des Plantes, the Botanical Garden of Paris, has a lovely rose garden that can be visited freely and leads the stroller to an intriguing iris garden. One of the great rose gardens is to be found on the edge of town in the Bois de Boulogne where the sublime Parc de Bagatelle brings forth blooms born from an astounding 1200 different varieties of roses. Myriad peacocks meander in and about the Bagatelle, which was purchased by the city of Paris in 1905

By Patricia Valicenti

who entrusted it to its head gardener, JeanClaude-Nicolas Forestier with its restoration, who established Bagatelle’s renowned rose garden, which hosts an international rose competition each year that has been held there since 1907. Meanwhile, Josephine, Napoleon’s first wife and empress and a great lover of the natural world, established a fine and extensive collection of roses at the Chateau de Malmaison, the couple’s bucolic country residence west of Paris in the early 1800s. Josephine had 250 species of roses planted at the estate some coming from China and Asia, which contributed to transforming the park into a horticultural laboratory drawing visitors from all over Europe. The Empress Josephine’s vintage rose garden was reborn in 2014 through the patronage of the Maison Piaget. Through the support of the house, 750 old rose bushes of the first and second French Empires were re-planted at Malmaison. Yves Piaget, the house’s chairman, had a deep-pink peony rose named after him, which would become his muse and signature of his jewels and would go on to inspire some of the house’s creations. The rose, too, would serve as an inspiration for the house of Dior, notably in one of Victoire de Castellane’s recent jewellery

collections. The Rose Dior Bagatelle haute joaillerie collection was designed as an homage to Mr Dior’s favourite flower. Christian Dior’s family home in Normandy in Granville, today home to the Christian Dior Museum, possessed a beautiful garden that the designer’s mother had planted and to which she added a rose garden to embellish the seaside Belle Epoque villa which the family owned until the early 1930s. The rose garden was restored and enlarged in 2002. Today, the museum houses an exhibition devoted to the designer and hosts thematic exhibitions. Jardin des Plantes 57 rue Cuvier (5th), 01 40 79 56 01 Iris garden closed weekends Parc de Bagatelle Route de Sèvres in Neuilly (16th), 01 53 64 53 80 June 18 International Rose Competition Musée National du Château de Malmaison Ave du Château de Malmaison, 92500 Rueil-Malmaison, 01 41 29 05 55 Musée Christian Dior-Granville 1 rue d’Estouteville, Villa Les Rhumbs, 50400 Granville, 02 33 61 48 21 From June 6 to November 1 the museum is hosting a temporary exhibition entitled Dior, The New Look Revolution

Parc de Bagatelle Photo © Paris Tourist Office - David Lefeuvre; Roses at Malmaison Photo © Aurore Markowski

Ravishing Roses

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Philharmonie 1 : bâtiment conçu par Jean Nouvel - Cité de la musique - Philharmonie 2 : bâtiment conçu par Christian de Portzamparc Photo © W. Beaucardet

CONCERTS - AC T I V I T É S E N FA M I L L E MUSÉE DE L A M U S I Q U E - E X P O S I T I O N S

CONCERTS - MUSEUM - EXHIBITIONS - WORKSHOPS…

In June, have a break at the brand new Philharmonie de Paris.

philharmoniedeparis.fr +33 (0)1 44 84 44 84 Porte de Pantin

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Musée d’Archéologie nationale Domaine national de Saint-Germain-en-Laye A royal residence... which has become a National Archaeology Museum

www.musee-archeologienationale.fr Château - Place Charles de Gaulle 78100 SAINT-GERMAIN-EN-LAYE Informations : 01 34 51 65 36 reservation.man@gmx.fr

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arts&attractions

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

EIFFEL TOWER

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01.55.37.73.77. M° Charles-deGaulle-Etoile

Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-15.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm.

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Through Dec 31 Paris disparu, Paris restitué, looks at the history of Paris through the vestiges from Lutèce to the 19th century (in the crypt). www. crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 8.50€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01.42.34.56.10. M° Cité

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30 am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 8.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01.44.11.23.23. M° Trocadéro

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own,10am-4:30pm (adults 10€, students and under 25, 6€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school holidays;

Place des Vosges © Paris Tourist Office - Amélie Dupont

Monuments

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Place des Vosges © Paris Tourist Office - Amélie Dupont

Place des Vosges

rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (14.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08.25.05.44.05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand.

PLACE DES VOSGES

Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers

One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

PONT DES ARTS This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9:30am-6pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01.53.40.60.97. M° Cité w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 67

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Address Book

arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris art galleries Galerie Bernheim-Jeune

The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and others. Now run by descendants of the founder, the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm. 83 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil

Galerie Daniel Templon

A contemporary gallery featuring established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10. M° Rambuteau

Galerie de Jonckheere

artists. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. 3 rue du Cloître SaintMerri (4th), 01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de VIlle

to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M°Concorde

Galerie NMariño

attractions

This sophisticated and welcoming gallery in the Marais neighbourhood specialises in geometric abstraction and kinetic art. The house showcases both confirmed and emerging talents and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent collections. William Barbosa, Martha Boto and Hans Kotter are among the artists represented by the gallery. Tues-Sat 1pm-6pm. 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01.48.87.49.75. M° Saint-Sébastien-Froissart

Galerie Olwen Forest

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Galerie Maeght

Galerie Polad-Hardouin

Disneyland Paris

This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. Works with strong pictorial choices are featured here. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29. M° Rambuteau

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Galerie Malingue

Galerie Russkiy Mir

Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Museum-quality 16th and 17th-century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil

Galerie Lelong

This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm. Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15. M° Rue du Bac This prestigious gallery has been welcoming discerning art collectors for over three decades. With three lofty exhibition rooms, it proffers a journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miró are all found in this fine and sublime house of art. Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm, Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions) 2:30pm-6:30pm. 26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Marian Goodman

The Paris branch of the renowned New York gallery. Artists include John Baldessari, Christian Boltanski. Giuseppe Penone, Gerhard Richter, Jeff Wall. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 79 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.48.04.70.52. M° Rambuteau

Galerie Nathalie Obadia

This contemporary gallery features fine, collectable works by both established and up-and-coming

Parc Zoologique de Paris | Attractions

This well-appointed gallery features works by contemporary Russian artists including Anatoly Poutilline, Masha Schmidt, Marina Nikolaeva, Andrei Tyrtyshnikov and Vladimir Sichov. 7 rue Miromesnil (8th), 01.44.71.07.41. M° Miromesnil

Galerie Schmit

Three generations of art experts present museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th century French masters. Covering periods from the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm. 396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36. M° Concorde

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Les Étoiles du Rex

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie | Attractions

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arts&attractions

Address Book

de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Yachts de Paris

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

day trips Auvers sur Oise

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

La Maison Vignobles & Chateaux

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Discover the art of tasting Bordeaux wine and the diversity of its vintages in this welcoming establishment located in the medieval town of Saint-Emillion. A large selection of fine Bordeaux wines is available in the boutique and tasting courses are given at the Ecole du Vin de SaintEmillion. Private classes and a special wine day can also be booked. 4 rue du Clocher, SaintEmilion, 05.57.24.61.01. SNCF TGV train from the Gare Montparnasse to the Gare de Libourne (3 hours), 10 km to Saint- Emilion, by train, taxi or car.

Château de Fontainebleau

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

Chartres

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. Wed-Mon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to FontainebleauAvon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

Paris Luxury Boat

Château de Versailles

A delightful small city in the heart of the Champagne country. Narrow streets of half- timbered houses with gabled roofs and private mansions dating from the Renaissance are an integral part of the charm of this quintessential provincial town, which became the seat of the Counts of Champagne in the 9th century. The city is doted with a fine array of museums, a superb cathedral and spectacular churches. Direct trains depart regularly from the Gare de l’Est (about 90 minutes).

Batobus

Enjoy an original and romantic cruise on board your own private boat. Ensconced in a mahogany Riva runabout of the 1960s enjoy the Seine and the heart of Paris. The captain and bilingual hostess welcome you on board with beverages and canapés. Reservations required, 5 persons maximum. 06.60.16.00.79/ 01.46.05.59.14.

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37.

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 11am-11:30am & 1:30pm-6pm, boats

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th-century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle

Musée National du Château de Malmaison | Day Trips

Troyes

gardens Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm.

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Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

guided tours 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie

world to document the lifestyles of indigenous peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne-Pont de St-Cloud

Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm, (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.

Espace Dali

L’Open Tour Paris

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Twiztour

Visit Paris in our two-seater 100% electric and automatic “talking car”. Choose one of our 3 incredible tours and explore every nook and cranny of Paris with your own GPS audio guide. Port de Suffren, pier of “Vedettes de Paris” (7th), 08.11.69.69.63. M° Bir Hakeim / RER C Champ-de-Mars

Your American Friend in Paris

Terrance Gelenter will show you a Paris au Flaneur you’ve never seen before. Choose the Classic program or let him customize an itinerary. 06.70.98.13.68. www.paris-expat.com

museums & fondations Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins

The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glassplate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent reporters all over the

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Fondation Mona Bismarck

Founded in the 1980s by the Countess Mona Bismarck to encourage scholastic and artistic exchanges between Americans and the French. Sat noon-6:30pm. 34 ave de New York (16th), 01.47.23.38.88. M° Alma-Marceau

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. TueSun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks

Jardin du Luxembourg (The Medici Fountain) | Gardens

of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Musée Carnavalet

A wonderful museum of Paris history in two adjoining 16th and 17th-century private mansions in the Marais. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. 23 rue de Sévigné (3rd), 01.44.59.58.58. M° St-Paul

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de St-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary

Jardin des Tuileries | Gardens

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arts&attractions

Address Book

Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Formerly the 19 century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée des Arts et Métiers

Musée Grévin

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Lettres et des Manuscrits

Created in 2004, by ‘The International Academy of Arts and Collections’, this romantic museum houses the original document of Einstein-Besso regarding the theory of relativity, a rare partition from Mozart, letters from Napoleon and poems from Paul Eluard, Voltaire and Manet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 222 blvd St-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.48.48. M° Rue du Bac

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra

Musée du Quai Branly

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Galliera th

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm (last tickets one hour before closing). 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Pinacothèque

Musée National de la Marine

An exhibition space dedicated to the various forms of art showcasing superb exhibitions. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun 10:30am-6:30pm & Wed, Fri 10:30am-9:30pm. 28 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.02.01. M° Madeleine

Musée Picasso

passes & practical information

France’s fascinating maritime museum, with superb scale models of ships dating as far back as Louis XV. Mon-Fri 11am- 6pm/Sat & Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 17 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01.53.65.69.69. M° Trocadéro A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° St Sébastien Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his

Monnaie de Paris | Museums & Fondations

Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Palais de Tokyo

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The Guide

dining

Restaurants | Bistros | Greek Cuisine | New Tables | Pastries

Turn to page 74 and discover the brunch at Aux Prés

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Restaurants

Astier Astier, a bistro in eastern Paris, opened in 1956, and almost sixty years later, it remains one of the best bistros in the city with an exceptionally good value four-course prix-fixe menu for 45 euros. The chalkboard menu by talented young chef Christophe Kestler changes often, but during many years of frequenting this table, I’ve never eaten so well as I did here with a friend recently. We started with perfectly cooked green asparagus from Provence for her, and a superb salad garnished with grilled pork belly, quail eggs and caper berries in a vinaigrette enriched with pan drippings came to the table for me. Next, a beautifully roasted coquelette (Cornish game hen) with fava beans, cherry tomatoes and black olives with a sauce diable for me and grilled cod in horseradish sauce for her. Next we plundered their famous serve-yourself cheese tray, and then tucked into a perfect Grand Marnier soufflé (not on the menu, you have to ask for it) for dessert. Since charming owner Frederic Hubig is a wine-lover, Astier has one of the best lists of any bistro in Paris, and service is charming and alert. – AL 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (11th), 01 43 57 16 35

Astier Photo © Frederic Ducout; Aux Lyonnais © Pierre Monette

Aux Lyonnais When I first moved to Paris over twenty-five years ago, Aux Lyonnais quickly became one of my favourite bistros. I loved the comfort-food cooking of Lyon served there, and the waitresses in black dresses with white aprons babied crowds of stockbrokers and bankers with lupine appetites at noon and a mixed crowd of bistro-loving Parisians at dinner. Chef Alain Ducasse took over this bistro with a magnificent décor of art nouveau tiles and other Belle Epoque fixtures in 2002, and after a discreet renovation, he introduced a menu of updated Lyonnais classics that respects the traditions of Lyonnais cooking at the same time it caters to a modern preference for lighter, healthier eating. A delicious example is the starter of baked eggs with crayfish and green asparagus on the current menu, it’s deeply satisfying but also a gentle beginning to a meal here. Main courses include beautifully made quenelles à la Lyonnaise, airy dumplings of pike-perch in crayfish sauce, calf’s liver in a persillade (mixture of finely chopped garlic and parsley) and boudin (blood sausage) with pickled onions. The menu also regularly offers special seasonal dishes or produce, and at the moment, they’re featuring some of the best beef in France. This succulent mineral-rich beef from Mézenc in the Haute-Loire region is served two ways, as a starter of beeffilled ravioli in a deep beef consommé and roasted and garnished with asparagus and other seasonal vegetables and baby potatoes. Note that since this exceptional meat is raised in small quantities, it’s subject to availability, so if you have your heart set on trying it, inquire when you make your reservation. The dessert not to miss at this restaurant is the Chartreuse soufflé, which is seasoned with the herbal liqueur of the same name, which has been produced by Carthusian monks in the Isère region since 1737. – A.L. 32 rue Saint Marc (2nd), 01 58 00 22 06 Reservations possible on their website, too. www.auxlyonnais.com w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 73

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Restaurants

Aux Prés Tucked away in the rue du Dragon, one of the prettiest little streets in the heart of Saint-Germaindes-Prés on the Left Bank, this cosy bistro with a marble counter, perfect for dining on your own, and floral wallpaper has been a local institution for many years. Now celebrity chef Cyril Lignac has given this popular place an appealing new menu that’s a mix of well-prepared classic bistro dishes and lighter contemporary French dishes. Start with a carpaccio of sea bream marinated with sesame-seed oil and lime juice or maybe a poached organic egg with lamb’s lettuce, white asparagus and shavings of Mimolette cheese, and then try the black cod caramelised in miso and baby peas with bacon or the succulent boned lamb wrapped in cabbage and served with roasted hazelnuts and a mix of organic cereals. Don’t miss the salted butter caramel éclair for dessert, and accompany your meal with a variety of excellent wines by the glass, including a very good MenetouSalon white from the Loire Valley or a supple red Crozes-Hermitage. Friendly service and a lively international crowd make this table a great choice seven days a week, and there’s a first-rate brunch served on Sundays, too. – A.L. 27 rue du Dragon (6th), 01 45 48 29 68

L’Adalie Alexandre Taittinger, a member of the famous French champagne family, and business partner Charles-César d’Amat have created a delightful and stylish new restaurant just across the street from the Ecole Ferrandi, the cooking school where many of the best chefs in Paris have trained. Formerly a café, the space has been given a Left Bank chic look with Bordeaux velvet banquettes and soft lighting created by handsome flea-market-find lighting fixtures. Young chef Emeric Le Puil, formerly at the Comte de Gascogne restaurant in suburban Boulogne, cooks a chalkboard menu that changes daily according to what’s best in the market, and it’s a pleasure to muse on this bill-of-fare over a glass of the Taittinger Champagne that’s served by the glass. Le Puil’s cooking style is at once homey and elegant, as seen in a beautiful starter of a slow-cooked egg served in a parfait of mushrooms with meat sauce, croutons and crushed hazelnuts. Other beautifully prepared starters on a recent menu included marinated herring in a ponzu jus, terrine of duck foie gras, and a cake of salmon and fresh cheese. Main courses include steak with baby vegetables; skate wing with green asparagus, cauliflower and bacon; and sautéed veal sweetbreads with baby potatoes and vegetables. Cheese-lovers won’t want to miss the truffled brie if it’s available, and desserts run to roasted apples and pears with caramel mousse, roasted pineapple with thyme sorbet, and lemon cream puffs with Thai basil sorbet. This is an excellent restaurant, and service here is charming and perfectly bilingual. – A.L. 33 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire (6th), 01 42 22 66 09 74 WHERE Pa r i s I J u ne 2015

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A little tartare on the terrace

Watch out, in the shadows of Paris’s terraces, more than one tartare may be lurking, lying in wait for you! Get out your finest sunglasses and follow this guide. Les Grandes Marches www.grandes-marches.com

6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th - Tel. 01 43 42 90 32

Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am - Valet parking available Agence-pashmina.com - Photo non contractuelle - Crédit photo : Shutterstock

L’Auberge Dab www.auberge-dab.com 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th - Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 Open 7 days a week from 12 noon to 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available Chez André www.chez-andre.com 12, rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th - Tel. 01 47 20 59 57 Open 7 days a week from 12 noon - 1am - Valet parking available Le Congrès Maillot www.congres-maillot.com

80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th - Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 Open 7 days a week from 7.30am to 2am - Valet parking available

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dining dining

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Traditional french cuisine Traditional french cuisine st

4 205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly Sur Seine 4 (Metro: 205 avePont Charles-de-Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly Sur Seine de Neuilly) Pont 4 (Metro: Tel: 01 46 24 de 52 Neuilly) 43 4 01every 46 24day, 52 43 4 Tel: Open 12pm-2:30pm / 7pm-11:30pm 4 Open every day, friendly 12pm-2:30pm 7pm-11:30pm Business Lunch, service,/ air-conditioned 4 Lunch, by friendly service, air-conditioned 4 Business Recommended several gastronomic guides 4 Recommended by several gastronomic guides www.restaurantashiana.com 4 www.restaurantashiana.com

431 rue Berger, Paris 1 (Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles) st 431 rue Berger, 4Tel: 01 42 33 12Paris 99 1 (Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles) 4Tel: 01 42 33 means 12 99 butcher 4Louchébem 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4A meat Sundays eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr 4www.le-louchebem.fr

Steps away from La Défense and Porte Steps frominvites La Défense Porte Maillot,away Ashiana you toand discover Maillot, invites you to discover “house”Ashiana specialties in north Indian tandoori “house” specialties in north Indian tandoori and curries in a charming environment. and curries in a charming environment. Excellent address to encounter India since Excellent address to encounter India since 1986. 1986.

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s This quintessential Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers les a full gamut of meat dishes. restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique The potcan roast is superb the unique all you eatsalad platter of beef,and roast ham and all can eat platterisofnot beef, ham and legyou of lamb at 26,90€ to roast be missed. leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

Le LamfÉ Le LamfÉ

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Traditional french cuisine Traditional french cuisine st

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1 (Metro: Châtelet / Les 47 rue Tel: des01 Prouvaires, Paris 1st (Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles); 45 08 04 10 Halles); 01 45the 08 butcher’s 04 10 4LamféTel: means wife 4Lamfé 4Specialmeans Salers the beefbutcher’s menu at wife 19.90e 4Special Salers beef menu 4Unlimited carpaccio: 23.90ate19.90e 4Unlimited carpaccio: 23.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lamfe.fr 4www.lamfe.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are Succulent meatshere. fromInventive, the butcher are to be savoured refined to be savoured here. crispy Inventive, refined appetizers including thyme-flavoured appetizers crispy thyme-flavoured camembertincluding are worth the detour. camembert areis worth detour. The calf’s liver a sheerthe delight and the The calf’s liver is aand sheer and the ambiance warm fulldelight of charm. ambiance warm and full of charm.

Indian Moghol Gastronomy Indian Moghol Gastronomy

49 rue de la Tremoille, Paris 8th 49 rue deGeorge la Tremoille, Paris 8th 4Metro: V 4Metro: George 4Tel: 01 40 70 01V09 4Tel: 01every 40 70day, 01 09 4Open 12pm - 2.45pm / 7.15pm-11.45pm 4Open every day,by12pm - 2.45pm 7.15pm-11.45pm 4Recommended Michelin, Gault/ Millau, Pudlo, Bottin 4Recommended Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin 4Business lunch, by airMichelin, conditioned 4Business lunch, air conditioned 4www.restaurantratn.com 4www.restaurantratn.com

Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally Since 1976,Delhi, the Bhalla originally from New excelsfamily, in Indian Moghol from New Delhi, excels Indianand Moghol Gastronomy of the 17thth in century Gastronomy the 17 century immortalisesof the beautiful northand Indian immortalises the beautiful north Indian culinary traditions. culinary traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest RATN invites to discover the finest specialties in you tandoori and curries. specialties in tandoori and curries.

DJakarta baLi DJakarta baLi

ziti ziti

Indonesian cuisine Indonesian cuisine st

Italian restaurant Italian restaurant

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and Imagine a little gemwith of abatiks place,and serene and refined, decorated Javanese refined, with and Javanese puppets,decorated just around thebatiks corner from the Louvre. puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali.

Classic Italian specialties are served in this Classic Italianoff specialties are served inStarters this lively eatery the Champs-Elysées. lively eatery off the Champs-Elysées. Starters include a bresaola-based salad and Parma include a bresaola-based and Parma ham aged for 20 months. salad Homemade pastas ham for 20 months. pastas are onaged the agenda with forHomemade example linguine are on the for example linguine in tuna andagenda tomatowith sauce. in tuna and tomato sauce.

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre / Les Halles 4Metro: Louvre Les Halles 4Tel: 01 45 08 83/ 11 4Tel: 01every 45 08day 83 11 4Open until 1am except Mondays 4Open every day until 1am except 4Balinese dancing on Friday nightsMondays 4Balinese dancing on Friday 4Special discovery menu, thenights Rijsttafel: 25-55e 4Special discovery menu, the Rijsttafel: 25-55e 4www.djakarta-bali.com 4www.djakarta-bali.com

460 rue Pierre Charron , Paris 8th 460 rue Pierre Charron , Paris 8th 4Metro: Franklin Roosevelt 4Metro: Franklin 4Tel: 01 45 63 48 Roosevelt 48 4Tel: 01 45 63 48 48 lunch and dinner from noon 4Monday-Saturday, 4Monday-Saturday, lunch from and dinner from noon -3pm and in the evening 7pm-midnight -3pm and in the evening from 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr 4www.ziti.fr

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Restaurants

Le Train Bleu One of the mythical Parisian dining venues, Le Train Bleu, was named in honour of the Paris-Vintimille train, which headed to the Riviera, and it is a fitting name for a restaurant ensconced in the Gare de Lyon train station. Regulars here included Coco Chanel, Jean Cocteau and Colette, and movie scenes have been filmed here too, perhaps the most memorable being one in Luc Besson’s Nikita. To open the meal, the Scotch salmon smoked in-house is a savoury choice dressed up with a superb combination of green apple, red onion, fresh cream from Isigny and blinis. A nice light delight is the carpaccio of sea scallops delicately set off with jellied citrus fruits. A good choice for the main course is the house’s famous potato gratin made with Fourme d’Ambert cheese served with lamb raised in the French countryside, and for dessert, indulge in the house signature dessert, the baba au rhum. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s décor is pure theatre with gildings, carvings, mouldings, chandeliers and frescoes covering the walls. With this rich heritage of the very early 1900s, the establishment was listed as a historic monument in 1972. - P.V. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis-Armand (12th), 01 43 43 09 06

Le Train Bleu © Arnaud Frich Photographie

Evi Evane A taste of the Mediterranean awaits in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood where famous Greek chef Dina Nikolaou has brought her talents to the culinary capital. Her Parisian restaurant, Evi Evane, is managed by her sister Maria, and is a cosy restaurant serving traditional Greek cuisine, freshly made and served with a smile. Dolmades, stuffed vine leaves with rice and served with Greek yoghurt, HtapodoSalata, an octopus salad marinated in olive oil and lemon and served with fennel and celery, and the traditional gyros are only a few of the specialties on the menu. If you’re looking for a warm welcome and good food while strolling through the cobblestone streets of the Left Bank this is a great spot. - S.I. 10 rue Guisarde (6th), 01 43 54 97 86 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 77

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Restaurant Advertorial

Le pouLpry French cuisine / Paris 7th An address known by few in a former bourgeois mansion. A world of charm and elegance within a stone’s throw of Musée d’Orsay. Monday to Friday Lunch & Dinner. 12, rue de Poitiers, Paris 7th Metro: Solférino Tel: +33 (0)1 49 54 74 54 www.maisondesx.com

Les arTs French cuisine / Paris 16th Close to the Trocadéro, in one of the most elegant late 19th century private mansions. Beautiful terrace in the summer to experience fine French cuisine. Monday to Friday Lunch & Dinner. 9 bis, avenue d’Iéna, Paris 16th Metro: Iéna Tel: +33 (0)1 40 69 27 53 www.salons-artsetmetiers.com

durand duponT French cuisine / 92, Neuilly sur Seine Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the cozy atmosphere. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes. For your starter sample the avocado and crab tartar with fresh mango , followed by green asparargus “carnaroli” risotto, followed by “Millefeuille” with fresh red berries for dessert. Open every day, service non stop from 8am to 1am. Brunch every Sunday. Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with Dj’s. 14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine), Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: +33 (0)1 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com

Le Train BLeu A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including scallop carpaccio, jellied citrus fruits with condiments; veal cutlet Foyot, mushroom and green asparagus lasagna and giant profiterole, Bourbon vanilla ice cream, vintage chocolate sauce. Daily Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner. Gare de Lyon - Place Louis Armand, Paris 12th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 43 09 06 Mº Gare de Lyon www.le-train-bleu.com

Les Arts and Le Poulpry ©Jean-Pierre Salle

Classic French / Paris 12th

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Pastries

Pop a Popelini Visiting Paris means biting into French pastries and nothing is more delicious than Popelini’s creamy chou selection. The sugar sweet chou shop displays a colourful counter of the creamy delights available in different flavours. Every season Popelini offers a new palette of five flavours plus a flavour of the month while nine flavours make up the classic collection, which are always available, including the dark chocolate, salted caramel and pistachio. - S.I. 29 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 44 61 31 44 Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7.30pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm 44 rue des Martyrs (9th), 01 42 81 35 79 Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7pm, Sunday 10am to 3pm

THE CHOCOLATIER OF KINGS AND THE KING OF CHOCOLATIERS Founded in 1800, supplier to the Kings of France, we offer more than 40 varieties of chocolates, from old-fashioned pralines to the creamy rasberry or coffee-ﬂavoured ganache. Aﬁcionados will love our chocolate bars made from different varieties of chocolate beans and orange peel

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 7.30pm 30 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris = Tel: 01 45 48 54 67 = M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 33 rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris = M° Bourse 333 N Bedford Road, Suite 150, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549 = Tel: 914 244 89 98

www.debauve-et-gallais.com = www.debauveandgallais.com w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 79

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Beef Club - Bistro

(€€€)

As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

In the lively 2nd arrondissement and two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L & D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Baudelaire - Modern Classic (€€€)

At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Julien Chamblas prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Bistrot Richelieu - Classic French (€€)

Le Lamfé - Classic French (€)

This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Goust - Gourmet (€€€)

Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterraneanstyle cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra

Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 3-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchebem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent starters included a mixed beet salad or local cabbage with foie gras while seasonal offerings for main dishes might include lobster with curry or an elegantly prepared breast

of pigeon. B daily, Mon-Fri L & D. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01 42 96 72 20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)

This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Don Juan II - Gourmet (€€€€)

The Don Juan II is filled with the charm and elegance of a great yacht, offering a delicious cruise through the heart of Paris. In a calm and luxurious atmosphere enjoy the gastronomic cuisine of Guy Krenzer, who has been awarded the finest craftsman of France title. Daily D. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.45.14.71. M° Sully-Morland

Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)

Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only.

La Tour D’Argent | Classic French (5th)

Café des Deux Magots | Café (6th)

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Address Book

in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd) 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

Le Sergent Recruteur - Gourmet (€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie

Minimes - Brasserie (€€€)

This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L&D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert

Nos Ancêtres Les Gaulois - Classic French (€€)

Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

L’Agrume - Bistro (€€)

This delightful bistro near the Jardin des Plantes offers inventive dishes bursting with flavours. Chef Franck Marchesi-Grandi changes the menu nearly every day in his open kitchen. The service is friendly and casual. Tues-Sat L&D, Mon, L only. 15 rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel (5th), 01.43.31.86.48. M° Saint-Marcel/Les Gobelins

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

English restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th)

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

La Tour D’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-StBernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistrot (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats

58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

Arpege - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)

Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

La Truffière | Southwestern French (5th)

La Scène | Gourmet (8th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 81

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Address Book Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from threestar chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule

Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine

L’Astor - Gourmet (€€€)

Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. Mon-Fri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

La Table du Lancaster - Fusion (€€€€)

This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

Fauchon Le Café - Gourmet (€€)

This temple to gastronomy is open all day and

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L & D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Alma-Marceau

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Ratn - Indian (€€€)

Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V

Santoor - Indian (€)

Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Savy - Brasserie (€€)

A popular table for journalists, fashion designers and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Zen Garden - Chinese (€€)

The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Café de la Paix - Classic French (€€€)

This classic Parisian institution with its decor of

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only.

Les Ombres | Contemporary (7th)

Le Safran | Gourmet (8th)

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Address Book painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. Daily B, L&D. 5 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra

Le Café Pouchekine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet

(€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai

(€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

Mamma Roma - Italian (€)

This casual eatery serves delicious pizzas by the slice. Traditional pizzas are all served including the Margherita and the Capricciosa, as well as original fare like the Speck al Tartufo made with truffles, speck and buffalo mozzarella. TuesWed noon-11pm, Thurs-Sat noon-12am. 90 rue Oberkampf (11th), 01.47.00.37.90. M° Parmentier

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16 , 17 ) th

Bon - Fusion (€€€)

Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette

Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière

Jamin - Classic French (€€)

The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming

service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)

Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L & D. 39 Avenue de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

CookinG And tAstinG CLAsses Le Cordon Bleu

Learn about food, wine and cooking at this culinary institution for professionals. The school is one of the leading providers of hands-on culinary training and has Paris as a backdrop. 8 rue Léon Delhomme (15th), 01.53.68.22.50. M° Vaugirard

Lenôtre Cooking Classes

Every Wednesday classes in cooking begin in Lenôtre’s cuisine workshops for children. Ages 8 to 11 will make a recipe or a pastry while for ages 12 to 17, be prepared to whip up an entire menu. Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre, 10 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.65.97.60. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Ô Chateau

Everyday Ô Chateau welcomes visitors for unique wine tasting courses in a vaulted cellar of thick stonewalls in a mansion that once belonged to the Marquise de Pompadour. A Tour de France of wine and a grands crus tasting are among the offerings and high-end private group tastings for a maximum of four people can be arranged. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01 44 73 97 80. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Cristal Room Baccarat ©Jérôme-Mondière

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Caviar House & Prunier | Caviar (8th)

Makassar | Contemporary (17th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 83

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The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

Turn to page 86 to enjoy a drink at Le Bar Kléber

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Shows

Just Jazz This month also marks the beginning of the Paris Jazz Festival. Starting from the 7th of June, the French capital will be hosting concerts every Saturday and Sunday in the Parc Floral, the botanical garden nestled in the heart of the Bois de Vincennes. Celebrating the soulful sounds of jazz, the festival will see artists from around the globe performing in the beautiful outdoor setting. Artists from London, Rome and Tokyo, including Franck Wolf and Mieko Miyazaki who will be performing on stage on the 20th of June. Mieko Miyazaki who is known for her unique style of combining traditional Japanese music with western sounds will be playing the koto, a traditional Japanese stringed musical instrument, while Franck Wolf will be playing saxophone. Visit www.parisjazzfestivals.paris.fr for the full programme and all practical information.

Jazz © Thinkstock; Meurtre © Axel Perez

Music and Dance Festival Celebrating the relationship between dance and music, the June Events festival continues to showcase young talent with performances held in various locations around the city. The events calendar also features celebrated artists and dance companies including choreographer Tomeo Vergés and the Man Drake Company who will be performing Soirée Culture Perchée au Perchoir at the rooftop restaurant and bar Le Perchoir in the 11th arrondissement on the 14th of June. The annual June Events festival is taking place from the 8th to the 20th of the month. Visit www.junevents.fr for the full programme. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 85

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A Drink to Peace The very place where the peace agreement between the US and Vietnam was signed on the 27th of January, 1973 is now Le Bar Kléber, the Peninsula Hotel bar. High ceilings, ornate decor and charming service all give this bar a certain warmth that isn’t always found in hotel bars. Classic cocktails and signature mixes are on the menu as well as a selection of wines with a nod to the history of the place with a Vietnamese chardonnay and an American red wine on the menu. The standout cocktail here is the Lucy at the Clover Club champagne cocktail. Mixed with vodka, raspberry and rose cordial, lime juice, sugar and of course champagne, this original drink is light and just sweet enough. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01 58 12 67 78

The recently opened Mabel is a grilled cheese sandwich shop at the front and a cocktail den in the back, creating the perfect establishment for anyone who loves a good cocktail and a delicious greasy snack to follow. A small menu of 5 different sandwiches, all made with cheddar cheese, cater to all tastes, from the plain Cantine Classique to Pulled Pork, with even a veggie option on offer, Jo’s Final Sandwich made with fresh mushrooms, spinach and vegetarian pepperoni. In the “den” a cocktail menu offers original mixed drinks using ingredients made by the talented barman. The syrups, bitters and cordials are all homemade and add an original twist to the drinks. Try the Blockbuster Daiquiri, a light and fresh rum cocktail mixed with cola syrup, popcorn bitters and served with a slice of seared lime. The speakeasy bar, specialising in rum-based cocktails, was ironically named after Mabel Walker, the U.S. Attorney General during the Prohibition Era. 58 rue d’Aboukir (2nd), 01 42 33 24 33

Le Bar Kleber © Pascalanziani; Mabel © Laurence Marot

Mabel

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LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 190 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

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entertainment Events

Private Cocktails Cocktails, a personal chef and a posh Parisian apartment are the fabulous ingredients going into creating Cointreau Fizz Privé, the ultra-exclusive, ephemeral event. From the 1st to the 6th of June, a privileged few are invited to experience this exceptional dinner date. In the heart of the 10th arrondissement, Parisians’ new favourite neighbourhood, a chic apartment, with a splendid terrace, a private bar and an open kitchen is the setting where your group of ten can enjoy Cointreau’s latest cocktails with chef Jennifer Taieb’s cuisine. The evening starts with cocktails, before dinner being served with each dish prepared by Taieb and inspired by the flavours of each of the new cocktails. An atelier is then set up for guests to create their own cocktail, to be enjoyed with dessert.

Contreau Prive © Pascal Montary

Visit www.cointreaufizzprive.com to reserve your private dinner.

ADVERTORIAL

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and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up

comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

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Lenny Live Olympia, the French capital’s famous music hall, is welcoming rock star Lenny Kravitz on the 30th of June for a one-night only concert. Performing his greatest hits as well as songs from his latest album Strut, the legendary rocker will no doubt put on an unforgettable live show on the mythical Olympia stage. Reserve your tickets at Fnac. Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08 92 68 33 68

Titanic

Titanic © ONDIF/Eric Garault; Bal des Vampires © Brinkhoff-Moegenburg; Lenny Kravitz Photo © Mathieu Bitton

For three nights only this month, from the 26th to the 28th, the Palais des Congrès will be hosting the blockbuster, Titanic. The unique event sees the National Ile-de-France orchestra and choir perform as the movie is shown on the big screen (in English with French subtitles). Delving you into the tragic love story of Rose and Jack, this unique performance will have you experience the romance and tragedy of the film as you have never experienced it before. Tickets available at Fnac. Palais des Congrès 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th)

A Date with a Vampire Due to popular demand the chilling musical Le Bal des Vampires will continue to entertain audiences until the 28th of June. Based on The Fearless Vampire, the movie written and directed by Roman Polanski, which was made at the time to parody vampire movies and soon became a cult movie, Le Bal des Vampires tells the story of professor Abronsius and his assistant, Alfred, who decide to embark on a trip to Transylvania to look for vampires. However, trouble ensues when Alfred falls in love with Sarah, their inn-keeper’s daughter, who is abducted by the mysterious Count von Krolock, the all-powerful leader of the vampires who is at once charming yet very terrifying. This quirky tale of love and blood is performed in French and features an astounding 230 costumes and three bags of fake blood is used during every show, leaving you terrifyingly loving the show. Théâtre Mogador, 25 rue de Mogador (9th) Call 01 53 33 45 30 to reserve your seats.

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DINNER & SHOW CHAMPAGNE & SHOW WWW.LIDO.FR 窶｢ + 33 (0) 1 40 76 56 10 窶｢ reservation@lido.fr 116 BIS AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSﾃ右S, 75008 PARIS

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Cabarets

Paradis Latin

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO

MOULIN ROUGE

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 91

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Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01 48 06 50 70. M° Bastille

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Le Bar Brûlé

This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Private access is given to patrons as they step into a predominately black space with colours coming in through the bar from a street-art inspired background. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette

Bar Lenox

Elegance, comfort and harmony are the hallmarks of this cosy bar in the Hotel Lenox right in the Saint Germain des Prés district. 9 rue de l’Université (7th), 01.42.96.10.95. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for

Bar du Plaza Athénée | Bars & Wine Bars

enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

champagnes are among the offerings. Nibbles are available as is a full dinner menu that changes weekly. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli

La Closerie des Lilas

Prescription Cocktail Club

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

Le Rubis

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Harry’s New York Bar

casino

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 4 Grey Goose cocktails at the city’s first ice bar. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Ô Chateau

You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° St-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

Titty Twister ©Roméo Balancourt

bars & wine bars

Duc des Lombards | Bars & Wine Bars

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entertainment Address Book

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s only aphrodisiac restaurant and cabaret is a temple to glamour. Sensual savours are featured on the Aphrodisiac Menu like satay, sesame, hot peppers, cinnamon and ginger accompanied by a fine selection of wines and champagne. The show features 20 to 30 dancers in a jewel-box ambiance. 8:30pm-4am. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

The Penthouse Club

The world famous Penthouse club in Paris offers entertainment seven days a week from 10pm to 5am. Beautiful dancers, two floors, and three stages are all on the agenda in this venue just off of the Champs-Elysées. 13/15 rue de Berri (8th), 01.53.53.86.00. M° George V

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The stunning décor has been designed by Lenny Kravitz and his studio Kravitz Design. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Chacha Club

Titty Twister ©Roméo Balancourt

This Parisian nightspot plays host to a revolving

array of disc jockeys and special guests. The clubby atmosphere is enhanced by a restaurant replete with terrace and private dining rooms. Mon-Sat, 8pm until midnight for the restaurant, until dawn for the club. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Club 79

This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V

Le Duplex

atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

NY Club

This hot club is home to the best of electro DJs and where fashionistas and stars are flocking to for their showcases and their private parties. A glamorous and cabaret-like ambiance awaits you. 130 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.42.21.90.88. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

La Fidelité

Queen Club

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Paris Paris

This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club has a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. Tues-Sat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Réservoir

A wonderful night spot to listen to excellent music and discover new artists. The club has a bar with a diverse selection of mojitos and margaritas and restaurant serving excellent dinners followed by entertainment, Tues-Sat. Buffet jazz brunch on Sundays. 16 rue de la Forge Royale (11th), 01.43.56.39.60. M° Faidherbe-Chaligny

Le Showcase

Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby

VIP Room | Night Clubs

Palais Maillot

Attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultrachic Parisians listening to music from some of the capital’s finest DJs. 102 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.08.90. M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Non-members are admitted after midnight. Members have access to films, concerts and other performances. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd) 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

Titty Twister

| Night Clubs

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Air France buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle ET OL S BO G Nfor Orly Airport/CLO (Roissy) from UL5:55am to 10:30pm E BA Chemin S U LT DA RU A E DU N E RO BO G S VA Vert E E R. F. R É UR SI Bréguet RU TT GE D E to Charles de Gaulle T ER departures from Orly EAirport RO DU TO ORLY AIRPORT OIS Sabin UE LFOR I D S R. E B Q R UE E S R . DU RU B O R. DE ME R RO E PAS DE IC I S DES ND . LE RU L A M RER B, direction U LOrlyval, Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (Onboard: 20€ Oone ELS St-Rémy, connects with ULE PLACEThe LA SO R IV EV E RT E A U HN OLI DES PL.DE LA MIRON O N N Alexandre X A R Charonne C H A Rround S RÉUNION VOSGESan automatic train, at way, 34€ trip/Online: 18€ one way, 30.50€ D EAntony. Orlyval runs every O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E S-Paul U E Pont R NE RU round trip). Frequency: every 30 minutes. Journey X Marie I 5-7 min, 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The RER C direction E E R CRO e RU TER ONN PLACE L A Porte de E HAR DE DRE Bastille DE LA R . connects with a shuttle busCthat S PORTE DE S T- Massy-Verrières takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles R. DE Montreuil DE XAN DE ANT R. ALE BASTILLE D E L A P RE U I L MONTREUIL OINE E CÉ V IL PE MONT Maraîchers D C R U E E S L LE de Gaulle R U then the OrlyVal goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the R U E to the Antony station ST E MR U Opéra Y Z INS CHAN TIT . DE L Bastille IV RON Buzenval R. A PE D 'AV R U E 20 min service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from D E L E S C L Uevery Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), ZE Rue des DU CER UA BL IS A I R. I D Boulets IE VD NR Ledru 'AN E Travel time HE R UAir France U S R 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. JO 5:35 am-11 pm (7.20€). buses leave from Rollin E Avron CH AM P N Sully V L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland B LV I L is about S LT betweenOthe two airports the Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) REU DE T E A N D RU O U Y M IR DE ULL RUE HU E minutes. NE E S 1 hour and 10 AU B O the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, FM° Etoile) DE R. IGN É D PLAINE URG LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A R. MO RN AYand Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant E Faidherbe www.aeroportsdeparis.fr IN A R. D B. FR

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France buses (08.92.35.08.20) leave daily from N DU IL L O 'O R EA Montparnasse (Rue duRCommandant Mouchotte, DES M E L U RG . D MÉNI L E IN R OU UX EL RU A UB H U Couronnes RM www.aeroportsdeparis.fr FAMontparnasse) 15th, M° and Gare de Lyon (20 bis. S . JO UE L B O U LA SU I DE R. Goncourt NG RO E IT E R LV D AM RON RUE AD blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare S T-M DU MA A U de Lyon),every 30 min, ARTI République Pelleport DE R. E ES N D S AIN R.D E ET LA R . DE ON N ES B A U FONT SL DU DOL M ES UR airport (Onboard R UE L'I LAY PLACE DE LA 6am-10:30pm, 6am-10pm, 3 C Ofrom R. TIM RUE RUE S A TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT DE CA R. DE NE ER FIL RÉPUBLIQUE N A Z AR P. M D U OR R B RB O LA : 17€ one way, 29€Sround ETH 3 R Etrip/Online: 15.50€ one AR DE R FE X Ménilmontant U E I E CH YA P NO IS P. Buses leave daily from the bus parking lotMon Blvd E O AL PA RS F VEN Temple ON R. D CA BI G LIE TIB AMP D ES U Eround trip). way,A26€ Buses also leave the Arc E TUR Kfrom VIL U R R Œ E N S O Hotel R. UF OB E Pershing near Concorde Lafayette (17th, JE A S Parmentier S R. RU RB deBTriomphe (1 ave 17th, M° Etoile), andO CRE.NDDERIERS TH DUP D ECarnot, IE .D OU ETI RUE O É AU S R E S Maillot). Mo Arrive 3 hrs and 15 min before H AR T UL C E N Porte P A R TA N T MU EDM S PLACE L Rue St-Maur R F P L AV T . NA P E D Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion StLACyr, 17th, M° Porte AU D M UR R. EZ DE VA RKA IS GAMBETTA TS R. RU E from Gare departure time T(13€). Or take TER train OB E LUE R R. B ELGR AN D A Oberkampf D SB Gambetta Maillot), every 30 min, 5:45 am-11pm (Onboard : . DE BET DE M D RÉP R A . ES GBeauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 du Nord to UBL L A Cmin), N O then taxi E e D UES IQ U R. NUE 17€ one S RU E N D one E way, 29€ round trip/Online: 15.50€ BR AV E RA E RU to airport. ET R. ERT PA R. B DE AG LE Père ST way, 26€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch Filles du PO OU NE Lachaise RE RT IS E Calvaire T O C LL BR .D VER E AN ES R. FR the Roissybus AM (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, FR St-Sébastien IN OISS R. S TRIE IS M L E E A TT Froissart RT DE R. ES CH P LP O EN TI R. Cimetière S DU M A I R. E TO U St-Ambroise 15 min between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 DE PONT AUX every RU TE T- S ÉB CHOUX TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES SD DU du Père R. S Musée ES Richard 4F Picasso R Lachaise Lenoir7pm and 10pm ILS UE min between andRevery 30 minues VO O D UR . D L DE GAULLE AIRPORT R. S T- CL A U DE E É L T E P E LA PE AI E RL E between R10pm and 11pm. (01.58.76.16.16). UE e RE VE E LL RU T TE EI RU EA

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navigate

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.80€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.10€). This map includes the new tramway line.

96 WHERE Pa r i s I j u n e 2015

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 11.15€, 2-day 18.15€, 3-day 24.80€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty

Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. �� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. �� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com

w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 97

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My Paris

Philippe LESIGNE

Head Concierge at InterContinental Paris le Grand Bookstalls along the Seine

The Arc de Triomphe

Café de la Paix

For a typically Parisian evening, reserve tickets to a concert in a church, for example at the Sainte Chapelle where you can admire not only the stained-glass windows but also enjoy a very special atmosphere. To finish off your evening, savour a gastronomical experience in one of our many splendid restaurants.

The Grand Véfour for its tables steeped in history and its wonderful surroundings.

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Allard’s authentic and generous cuisine, reinvented in line with current tastes, enabling one to feel the taste of yesteryear, offers a perfectly mastered cuisine, mixing harmoniously simplicity and tradition.

What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? The Grandes Ecuries (stables) of the Château de Versailles and its equestrian shows.

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The Arc de Triomphe with its 12 radial avenues, offering a breath-taking view of the Eiffel Tower. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? The Cartel Club, which just opened in March. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? The Paris Philharmonic for its architecture and its numerous exhibits and activities.

What would be an ideal spot for a relaxing stroll? Quai de Jemmapes, along the Canal Saint Martin.

My perfect day 9am Jogging in the Tuileries Gardens 12pm Lunch at the Café des Musées 3pm A walk through Place des Vosges 9pm Dinner at Café de la Paix that has been registered as an historic monument

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Your Guide to the World

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? If you wish to discover the real Parisian’s Paris, a visit to a market is a must. The Marché d’Aligre is the largest outdoor and covered market and is a real treat for the senses. Afterwards, set off on foot and head to Place de la Bastille or by metro towards Place des Vosges and see its beautiful arches and art galleries. Continue on to Le Marais, one of the oldest districts of Paris, stroll around and take a look into the hidden courtyards where you can discover hidden treasures. For lunch, choose from one of the many bistros, one of my favourites being Le Café des Musées on Rue de Turenne. After lunch, head towards the Seine and visit Ile St Louis and Ile de la Cité where you will find Notre Dame de Paris, not forgetting to pass by the Marché aux Fleurs. On both banks of the Seine you will come across many secondhand bookstalls, where you can chance upon old books, pictures, vintage postcards and other quirky items. Afterwards, continue to the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés, whose history dates back to the year 576. On your way you will discover more art galleries and antique dealers. To end your afternoon, and before returning to the hotel, you could stop and have a drink at the Café des Deux Magots or at the Café de Flore to discover from where many writers and poets drew their inspiration.

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Nexity Seeri – Simplified joint-stock company (French Société par actions simplifiée) with capital of 39,958 euros – registered in the Paris Trade and Companies Register under number 331 129 437 – Registered office: 19 rue de Vienne TSA 10034 – 75801 Paris Cedex - A joint creation in partnership with Mutuelle d’Epargne de retraite et de prévoyance Carac registered in the French National Register of Mutual Organisations under number 775 691 165 - Registered office: 2 ter, rue du Château - Neuilly-sur-Seine (Hauts-de-Seine) - Document, illustration and photograph are atmospheric and not legally binding - Depictions of interiors and exteriors are for information purposes only. Architect: Louis Paillard - Illustrator: L’Autre Image Production - Photo credits: Michel Sabah. May 2015

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