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IN THIS EDITION: L E A D E R S H I P
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From Totombo: Lessons In Grace
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Osama Moftah: International Law & The House of Wisdom
by REBECCA WINSLOW
PAPI-THORNTON
by JUSTIN KIERSKY
by OWEN YAGER
by AMRIT ALE
by SCOTT COE
Thinlas Chorol: A Woman of Mountainous Courage
Moving from Social Entrepreneur to Social Impact by DANIELA
COVER IMAGE: CELIA MITCHELL | SEE ADDITIONAL PHOTO CONTEST FINALISTS ON INSIDE FRONT COVER
Visionary Nepal: Health Camps & Earthquake Recovery
Travel & the Search For the Moments that Make Us
Spring 2017
On the Cover WORDS & IMAGE CELIA MITCHELL This is an image from Sampela on the evening my host father, Taimba, took me night-fishing. We met a few other waiting fishermen in a shallow part of the ocean in Wakatobi National Park. Each boat had its own gas-lit lamp to light the way, illuminating the water for the men to see small fish, sea cucumbers, and other ocean creatures. I sat still for 4-6 hours as Taimba stood poised, gripping a spear fashioned with a claw at the end. Sometimes they stay out all night, until the sun comes back up, using the low tide and quiet to their advantage. What this photo doesn’t capture was the incredible stars I saw all night, or the beauty of a few gas lamps floating out over a dark ocean. This is my favorite memory from Indonesia! *Cover image was a Fall 2015 photo contest finalist.
This Page FALL 2016 PHOTO CONTEST FINALISTS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BENJAMIN SWIFT, ANDES & AMAZON • ELLEN BROOKS, HIMALAYAS CLAIRE LINDSAY, WEST AFRICA • CHRISTINE TSAI, INDIA • AMELIE KONIG, INDONESIA • ELOISE PARISI, INDONESIA • ELIANA ROTHWELL, INDIA ELLA WILLIAMS, ANDES & AMAZON • EMILY ZISLIS, INDONESIA • TASHI BRUNDIGE, HIMALAYAS
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THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
In this edition of The Map’s Edge... WE’VE CHOSEN TO SHINE A SPOTLIGHT ON LEADERSHIP. AT DRAGONS, WE AIM TO NURTURE A COMMUNITY OF YOUNG LEADERS WHOSE VOICES, THOUGH SINGULAR, POSSESS THE TIMBRE AND CONVICTION TO INSPIRE HOPE IN FUTURE GENERATIONS. IN THE PAGES THAT FOLLOW, YOU’LL READ STORIES FROM A HOMESTAY SISTER WHO IS BUILDING HER COMMUNITY’S FIRST LIBRARY, THE FOUNDER OF AN ALL-FEMALE TREKKING COMPANY, AND A HUMAN RIGHTS LAWYER. YOU’LL HEAR FROM ACTIVISTS, POETS, STUDENTS AND SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURS. THIS IS OUR COMMUNITY.
A LETTER FROM THE FOUNDER WORDS CHRIS YAGER
I
was once trained in a leadership exercise that has time-and–again
just good leadership, but great leadership. When teams go down
revealed the same leadership maxims. It begins with a narrative
this path they consistently identify great leadership as something
of an Everest ascent, and asks participants to identify the needs
not simply quantified by metrics of goal realization, but rather by
that would go into a successful expedition. The workshop reveals
metrics of the longer-term growth and development of a project’s
the best results when participants don’t know that it’s a “leadership
participants. A good leader gets the group up a mountain, but a
exercise,” and if they instead approach it as a genuine meditation
great leader inspires the group to fall in love with the adventure. A
on a successful mountaineering ascent—even when participants
great leader returns the group down the mountain with larger heart
have no background in climbing. Here’s how it goes: The person
and vision and with the capacity to lead others themselves.
leading the exercise presents the challenge of getting a group of
In the world of experiential education, we say that great
people from Kathmandu to the summit of Everest, and asks them to
leadership occurs when a leader “leads from behind,” wherein a
brainstorm all that will need to go into a triumphant endeavor.
group arrives at the goal and says of themselves, “we did this on our
The conversation follows a predictable flow, with participants first
own.” When individuals own their success and feel that they have
identifying material needs for the expedition: yaks for transport, tents,
lead themselves they become conscientious and caring stewards
crampons, communication gear and medical supplies. Inevitably
of others. They become capable and mindful leaders themselves.
the conversation trends towards the personnel who’ll be necessary:
Conversely, demagoguery-as-leadership, or leadership that comes
porters and cooks, a medical officer, technical climbers, a leader.
from cult of personality, results in tepid participation and leaves
As the exercise evolves, the conversation organically moves to the
followers dispossessed of much personal gain.
personality characteristics of a team that would be most successful.
Great leaders are visionaries who see and articulate a potential
Eventually, participants focus their discussion on qualities of ideal
reality that is better for everyone. They have learned through
leadership.
personal trial and personal engagement the best ways to navigate
In the numerous times that I’ve seen this exercise play out, the
the difficult terrain ahead. And they have a way of bringing out the
same narrative emerges when going deep about the qualities of the
best in those that work with them. Great leadership comes not from
team leader. Even when disparate people from disparate cultures
a place of celebrating the “I”, but instead comes from a place of
participate, they arrive at the same basic conclusions. And that is
building the “we”. It comes not from instigating a collective flight
this: a successful enterprise—from a goal hashed out in a boardroom
from anything fearful, but rather from an ability to inspire a bold dash
to a successful ascent of Everest—requires of its leader authentic
towards something affirmative.
character, vision, an ability to articulate a vision, knowledge of terrain, and an emotional center that genuinely values each member of the group. In any brainstorming, the best ideas often emerge after the
There’s much more to great leadership: courage, patience, experience and wisdom, among other attributes. But without character, vision, knowledge of terrain and a degree of humility, guides aren’t going to get a group up and down the mountain
obvious ones are exhausted. In the case of the Kathmandu-to-Everest
safely. And they’re not going to benefit from the innate capability
expedition, when the conversation door is left open long enough,
of the group to lead themselves, wherein the greatest potential for
participants begin to talk about the distinguishing hallmarks of not
achievement lies.
CHRIS YAGER i s the Founder of Where There Be Dragons. After graduating from Bowdoin College with a degree in Asian Studies, he worked
with Colorado Outward Bound before launching Dragons and leading the first courses in China and Tibet. Having worked with over 1,000 field instructors, Chris has been closely involved with the design of Dragons curriculum, in-country programming and new program development.
WWW.WHERETHEREBEDRAGONS.COM
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Lessons in Grace WORDS OWEN YAGER IMAGES CELIA MITCHELL, INDONESIA FALL 2014
M
ost mornings in Sampela, Totombo, my host father, and I were awoken by boardwalk roosters crowing in the sun and would be on the water not much later. We went out in his boat, a battered blue canoe that was roomier and required less bailing than most other boats
in Sampela—a financial testament to his fishing capability—and were armed with a long speargun for him, a short, easy to reload speargun for me, and one extra for good measure. We would cruise across a sea peppered by waves big enough to make the boat rock a little until he, peering over the side of the boat, decided that he liked the fishing prospects of that particular spot of ocean. He’d flash me a terrific smile, say, “Ini bagus” (“This is good”), and launch overboard. I’d follow him, much less gracefully, and hope that I was in the water in time to watch him tie the anchor onto whatever monolithic coral structure we’d have stopped over. Then we’d stretch the cut lengths of rubber on our wooden
given that they were speaking in Bajo, but somehow Totombo and I
caught the first fish, spinning up to the surface with a joyous smile
ended up a part of Mr. Helmet and Mrs. Hat’s crew.
before dropping his catch in the katingting and diving back down.
I took to calling them Mr. Helmet and Mrs. Hat as a way of referring
Sometimes my only role for a morning would be to swim his catch
to them in conversation with other Dragons, and their monikers
back to the boat, and it took me a few days before I caught my first
descended from their headpieces. Mrs. Hat always wore a huge
batfish, his most commonly sought prey. Those mornings were always
bamboo hat. It’s shadow rarely let the warm glow of her eyes out,
lovely. It was just the two of us in a small blue boat in the middle of
instead showing only her sun-leathered face and betel-stained teeth.
the ocean, swimming and fishing and basking in the Indonesian sun,
Mr. Helmet had a well-worn black construction hat which kept the
and it was blissful.
sun off his face and, more importantly, kept his cigarettes and lighter
About halfway through my time in Sampela, we started to go out
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engines. I’m not quite sure what was said over the next 45 minutes,
spearguns back, lock in the spears, and dive down. Totombo always
dry from the ocean’s spray and Sampela’s monsoon rains—it only
earlier and travel farther, fishing for upwards of six hours. On one
occasionally showed his face when we were there during the dry
of these days, we were taking a break in what was starting to be a
season. I never learned either of their names. I didn’t speak Bajo, they
blisteringly hot day when a few boats puttered up to us and cut their
didn’t speak Bahasa Indonesian, and we never needed names anyway.
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
They had one of the only nets I saw in Sampela, and certainly the largest. It had it’s own canoe, and Totombo and I (mostly Totombo) were recruited to help use it. Mr. Helmet and Mrs. Hat each had a large
through the water. By the time I got out of the water our boat was carpeted with fish. Once the spear-gunners had sufficiently thinned the school in the
boat filled with several hundred feet of rope with some floating thing—
net, it was closed from the bottom and Mr. Helmet and a fisherman
a plastic bag, a water jug, a stick—tied every couple yards. Leaving the
who had helped set up the net pulled it in hand over hand. It wasn’t
net, the net’s canoe, myself and my canoe anchored, each boat began
until it had been landed that I realized that the catch from the net far
to go in an opposite direction, slowly paying out the rope as they went.
exceeded any individual’s spearfishing catch, and that Mr. Helmet and
The old man who had ridden in the canoe with the net was spending
Mrs. Hat allowing their helpers to spearfish the net was as much a
this time pulling the net out and setting it up in the sea and I, unskilled
method of payment as it was necessary to land the net.
and unable to help, watched like the five year-olds that sometimes accompanied their mothers and fathers to the ocean. The rope-boats eventually finished unloading their ropes and began to arc around, back towards us. The miscellaneous debris spread along the ropes scared most of the fish in their way towards
The fishermen, triumphant for the day, spent a few moments enjoying their success and the sun before Mr. Helmet called us over to his boat. He gave us a few armfuls of miscellaneous fish and handed Totombo a massive wrasse, his further thanks for Totombo’s help. Over the rest of my stay in Sampela, Totombo and I rendezvoused
the net and the net was soon teeming with a swirl of fish. I was told
with Mr. Helmet and Mrs. Hat three more times. Each time we fished
in no uncertain terms by Totombo to stay out of the net but I was
a different part of the ocean and each time our catch was better than
permitted to get in the water and watch from a distance.
when we fished on our own. On my last day in Sampela, Mr. Helmet
The net, I realized once I’d gotten in the water, didn’t have a
was on our porch when I woke up and we rode out to the reef with him
bottom. It was weighed down at the edges, so fish couldn’t get
as part of a flotilla of boats that carved its way to a white sanded reef
out, but to lift it out of the water like a trawling net reduced its size
that was farther from Sampela than I’d been since I arrived. I’d been
tremendously, so the Bajo would simply use it as a pen for fish instead.
taught enough by Totombo—about how to read a gesture towards
I spent a few moments ogling at the swirl of fish in the nets, filled with
a fish, about how to tie anchors to the ocean floor, about how to be
lashes of green from parrotfish and red from snapper, before a set of
safe with a speargun—over the past two weeks that I was allowed to
splashes indicated the arrival of the. The swirl turned into a frenzy,
participate now. Together on that last day, he and I swam over the sun-
punctured by the familiar swish of a speargun’s projectile whipping
dappled seabed as host and guest, master and pupil, father and son.
OWEN YAGER is a Dragons alum who spent his gap year working as a farm-hand on a ranch in Idaho and attending Dragons Indonesia semester
program. He is a Freshman at Carleton College.
WWW.WHERETHEREBEDRAGONS.COM
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Zimbabwe WORDS KANE SMEGO IMAGE ERIC JENKINS-SAHLIN
I WROTE THIS POEM AFTER RETURNING FROM AN ARTS AND CULTURAL DIPLOMACY TRIP IN ZIMBABWE. MYSELF AND THREE OTHER HIP HOP ARTISTS WERE SELECTED TO TEACH A TWO-WEEK PROGRAM WITH A GROUP OF YOUTH AND YOUNG ADULTS AND PERFORM TWO FINAL PUBLIC PERFORMANCES WITH OUR STUDENTS. THE TRIP CHALLENGED ME TO REFLECT ON MY OWN IDENTITY AS AN AMERICAN, AND AS A TEACHING ARTIST ENTERING AN UNFAMILIAR SPACE. IN MANY WAYS, IT WAS A REMINDER OF THE IMPORTANCE OF HUMILITY IN BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS ACROSS CULTURES, AND OF THE POWER OF ART TO BREAK DOWN BARRIERS. At the hotel across from the
is called sadza,
so dope that their stage names
and 500 locals waiting wide-
college where I’m performing, the receptionist asks me if I’m
one of my new favorite words to
have better wordplay than most
eyed for a glimpse of Hip Hop’s
say…sad-za.
rappers’ verses
headdress.
Three of the standouts are
Things haven’t gone exactly as
afraid to go to Zimbabwe
It’s a hot cornmeal porridge,
because of the people,
sounds a little familiar.
“Elsewhere”, “Terra Firma”, and the
planned all week
I start to wonder if I should be.
When they bring me a plate of
“Illerstrator”.
the WiFi’s been spotty
steaming grits,
Else is Shona, Terra and Illerstrator
A student at my college show asks
the Southern boy in me feels right
are Ndebele.
the battery in my portable
me if I think Hip Hop is dead.
at home.
In my ignorance, I wonder if there
speakers has a lifespan of Vanilla
Another student asks me what a cypher is. When I tell them it’s
will be tension in the cypher. They tell me there are two main
Ice’s career, Tonight I’ve got a migraine made
a circle of people beatboxing,
ethnicities in
In the States, Hip Hop was born as
of 808s and my head is a shotput
rapping, and sharing stories I can
Zimbabwe,
liberation music,
in my palm.
tell they don’t fully understand
Shona—the majority
a soundtrack for the urban
the magic of it.
and Ndebele—the minority.
struggle birthed by DJ Cool Herc,
Later in the week some of my
a Jamaican immigrant who
hand and squint with the other.
I teach poetry and rap in schools,
students will mention a conflict
scraped Dancehall flavor
Elsewhere, Terra Firma, and
I cover my right eye with one
afterschools and detention
that happened between Shona
from the streets of Kingston
Illerstrator take the stage.
centers
and Ndebele in the 80s
and waxed it onto records in the
The three have formed a group
and sometimes it feels like Hip
but leave out the details,
Bronx.
since they met in class
Hop is the cool kid in class
in the silence I can feel it’s not the
In Zim, my students tell me that
and are making music together in
everyone pretends to know
time to ask questions, I know
most people see Hip Hop as
Shona, Ndebele, and English.
at least a little. Like they could
there is so much I don’t know
bourgie,
their song is a trilingual offering in
tell me whether Hip Hop’s
here,
a flashy American import with
the church of microphones,
candy-painted imperialism.
it sounds like flowers on
earrings are cubit zirconia or real diamonds, but can’t remember
At a fast food joint the cashier
her favorite color.
becomes
They’re all up in Kanye’s wife’s
a turtle thrown back on his shell
is the music of the hood
mother’s ex-husband’s business
the air, a convulsion of limbs and
Which makes coming to Africa
unmarked graves, Over here in Zimbabwe, Dancehall
like bullets decomposing, I cover my right eye with one
but some still can’t tell me what a
laughter
to teach a genre founded on
hand and watch them build a
cypher is.
I just asked for a napkin
drumbeats
temple out of lungs and air, storm
in Zimbabwe,
and inspired four decades ago by
clouds gathering in their cheeks
I come to Zimbabwe with a team
where nobody told me that
Dancehall
I cover my right eye with one hand
of artists to find Hip Hop
‘napkin’ is the word for diaper.
and teach a two-week program
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the equipment won’t sync
kind of like teaching glaciers
and I’m Slick Rick at age 11, staring
about the rhythms of river water…
through a D-train window learning
this is the source!
to look at the world in rhyme
with youth and young adults.
On day one of the workshops my students are dope
After two weeks of class,
I realize that this, is not a
The first day we go out for some
I mean so dope that I feel
our final performance is in Glen
classroom or a project or a
authentic grub,
embarrassed calling myself
Norah township, on a stage built
program
they tell me the staple food in Zim
teacher
beneath a giant tent
this, is a cypher
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
in all of it’s magic
juggling sadza-s-s-sadza and
the god of dopeness
I been rebel music and party music
and I’m in my element
grits like a South Bronx Merry-go-
the god of better tomorrows
been matchmaker
I’ve never felt more Hip Hop than
round
right here, right now
proving we ain’t spinning different
when lonely shoulders met and I can almost hear Hip Hop
boomboxes
my speech swerves and skips until
records, just remixing the same
saying “I told you so!”
shell toes met tubesocks
my cadence curves my lips
song
Can hear her calling to me kind of
and flattops kissed cardboard
into a homage,
and I’ve been wrong if any part of
annoyed like: “Didn’t Grand Master
every two blocks
my knowledge
me came to Zimbabwe hoping to
Flash teach ya’ll nothin’?
told you paint your ideas on train
broken and put back together like
find Hip Hop
The tables can always turn,
cars
the Fugees never
as if it wouldn’t exist until I stuck
somebody’s just gotta be there to
to think outside the box
feeling unpolished
my flag into it
turn ‘em
Shit, I jimmy rigged the hood
And dead? dead fool?
together with gold ropes and fat
I’m flawless as Chris Wallace rocking a Coogie sweater,
Didn’t exactly know what I was
Tupac with a bandana knotted
getting myself into
Ain’t I always been right on time
laces the back brace for cats in the rat
tighter than all of the hearts of hip
Nobody told me ‘napkin’ was the
Ain’t I been chameleon medicine
race
hoppers
word for diaper
whatever you needed me to be to
and I may have been sold out
gripping lighters the night of his
Nobody told me Hip Hop could
heal all your brethren
spun round, pawned off
death in Nevada
be the Shona word for peace
to patch a gaping wound the size
commodified, spotified
and Ndebele for forgiveness
of a crack house
chopped, screwed, auto-tuned
that when spoken in both
or a trailer park festering
and watered down
Listen, I’m Kool Herc in the kitchen with
languages at the same time
of a bleeding city trying
but not a day in my life
his hands on two plates
it could summon the god of music
desperately to clot
have I ever been dead!”
KANE SMEGO is a Dragons Instructor (Peru ‘15, Princeton Bridge Year Brazil ‘16), international touring artist, poet and MC. He has performed and
taught poetry and Hip Hop workshops across the U.S., Africa, Southeast Asia, the Middle East and North Africa, Europe and Latin America. He is a native of Durham, NC and is currently based out of Los Angeles, CA where he enjoys raspberries, corny jokes and getting lost in the mountains on weekends. PHOTO K ane performing spoken word at Dragons Summer Orientation and staff training in California’s High Sierras.
WWW.WHERETHEREBEDRAGONS.COM
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La Lucha: Reflections on Leadership WORDS & IMAGES FRANK COHN
I
have had the honor and privilege to live and work in over 100 rural and urban communities around the world, and in the process, I have learned powerful lessons about what matters, and what works, in terms of leadership. In addition to my roles as a community organizer,
facilitator, or Dragons instructor within the communities I have worked, I have played an ongoing role conducting impact evaluations of
different programs and initiatives, measuring over time the results of different efforts. I feel fortunate to have been able to return to many of these communities over more than a decade, and during that time I have been taught that the most impactful leadership is: 1) LOCAL 2) A STRUGGLE 3) ALWAYS IN TRANSITION
LOCAL The most valuable and relevant leadership comes from within
strong support network around them. I will never forget two small
communities, for communities. We often conceptualize social
communities way up in the mountains in Costa Rica that I was
change work as coming from the West to the rest, or from the North
working in 15 years ago, called La Lucha and La Luchita (The Struggle
to the South, or from the rich to the poor. In fact, that is not how
and The Small Struggle). Both were founded by individuals who
effective, sustainable, social change tends to happen. Traditional
moved their families from elsewhere to work land that was wild and
dependency-driven relationships, between unequal partners, driven
uncultivated, to start from scratch. These leaders taught me, through
by a sense of charity and not solidarity, do not tend to work in the
their humble but heroic hard work, it is often only by committing to
long-term. Recognizing that real long-lasting leadership comes
La Lucha that we can produce the results we need.
from within the community that is in need allows us to engage participants as owners and drivers of the process. Very often the
ALWAYS IN TRANSITION
most important role that we as outsiders can play in the positive
Effective leaders engage in a continuous process of delegating,
development of local communities is to get out of the way. The
empowering, training and opening spaces for others to lead.
more we stand in the way, the more we overshadow, intimidate and
Whether due to an accident, old age, burn-out, corruption or
sometimes even repress the innate strengths, sense of ownership,
changing priorities, we cannot depend on just one individual alone.
and voices of those whom we are in fact seeking to empower and
Furthermore, by cultivating opportunities to practice mentoring
serve. This is particularly the case with historically marginalized
others, or helping others, each of us is able to engage in our own
groups, like youth, for example, and historically dominant groups,
journey toward self-actualization and leadership. Without such
like the adult, white, Western, male social identity group that I am
opportunities for practice, we remain stuck waiting for someone else
a part of. This also requires each of us to reflect on what groups
to take charge. Established leaders must always be in the process
we belong to, and consider how we might assume leadership roles
of planning and acting on an ongoing commitment to replace, clone
within our own communities. This can be very difficult. For example,
and share their roles. And unless we deliberately acknowledge
it is easy for me to say that I don’t like the direction that a leader like
historical power inequalities, and open spaces for non-traditional
Trump is providing for his primarily white male followers, however, if
leaders to engage, then existing stale power structures will remain.
I am not providing or supporting any alternative leadership for this
For example, in a community where historically the leaders have
group that I am also a part of, then I hold some responsibility for his
been older, wealthy, able-bodied males, we must acknowledge this
rise in popularity among them.
and overtly practice inclusion of youth, women, lower-income people and people with disabilities.
A STRUGGLE
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One of the youths I have been working with in Haiti since 2011,
A unifying characteristic I have observed among those who are
now a member of the Global Potential Youth Leadership Council in
successful in driving their communities and organizations forward
his country, recently posted on Facebook: “L’aide qui est l’aide c’est
is tremendous hard work, self-sacrifice and hustle. To ensure
une aide qui nous aide à sortir de l’aide.... Nous devons lutter pour
that commitment and struggle does not lead to burn-out, it is
faire briller nos idées.” (Help which is help is help that helps us to no
also essential for those who take on leadership roles to have a
longer need help... We should struggle so that our ideas may shine).
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
In working with communities around the world, we as outsiders must always consider whether our presence, and our efforts, are furthering opportunites for locals—including historically excluded locals—to
mountains of Haiti as well as someone who grew up there. We must engage people from the communities in which we work not as passive participants or beneficiaries, but as actors and
gain the confidence to explore their comfort zones, push their own
benefactors, for themselves and others. We must not cultivate a
boundaries, and discover the strengths, ideas and talents they possess.
culture of waiting for outsiders, or ‘experts’, but rather a culture in
Today, I see the youth and women I have worked with over the years assuming strong leadership roles in their families and communi-
which the locals are recognized as experts in understanding their own challenges, and in designing, implementing and evaluating
ties, in companies and organizations that they work within, and in the
the pathways through those challenges. We as outsiders are
civic process of their societies. I will never be as effective a leader in a
collaborators and facilitators in the process, acting in solidarity and
community of young, urban Latinos, for example, as someone from or
in pursuit of our own personal, organizational and worldview goals.
with linkages to that community, and with whom they can identify. I
Acknowledging this power dynamic, and working together, is how we
will never be able to understand the needs of a rural village up in the
must begin.
FRANK COHN is a graduate lecturer in Social Work and Non-Profit Management at five universities, and has guest lectured at a dozen more.
Originally from Vancouver, he is the founder of Global Potential, an innovative youth leadership organization based in New York City. Frank speaks six languages and has 16 years of experience in 22 countries facilitating positive change for youth and communities as a facilitator, consultant, advisor and CEO. He has worked with Dragons since 2005 in China, Nicaragua, India, Peru, Cambodia, Thailand, and as a staff trainer.
WWW.WHERETHEREBEDRAGONS.COM
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A Woman of Mountainous Courage INTERVIEWER REBECCA WINSLOW IMAGES KRISTIN BRUDEVOLD (L), THINLAS CHORAL (R)
BORN IN TAKMACHIK, A TINY HAMLET OF 70 HOUSEHOLDS SITUATED IN THE INDIAN STATE OF JAMMU AND KASHMIR, THINLAS CHOROL IS A WOMAN OF THE HIGH HIMALAYA. SHE GREW UP TENDING HER FAMILY’S GOATS AND SHEEP WITH HER FATHER IN THE MOUNTAIN PASTURES, AND HAS SINCE BECOME INDIA’S FIRST PROFESSIONALLY TRAINED FEMALE TREKKING GUIDE.
T
hinlas received her formal mountaineering education from
and supports victims of crimes. She has written articles about
NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) India and the
the prevalence of sexual assault in Ladakh and is an advocate
Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. In 2009, she started the Ladakhi
for women’s rights in the region. When the Ladakhi Women’s
Women’s Travel Company, the first such company to be entirely
Ice Hockey league was formed, Thinlas provided support for the
staffed and run by women. Her company is one of the few in
nascent organization and appeared in a documentary promoting
Ladakh committed to the practice of Leave No Trace and they
the teams.
stress the importance of running a sustainable trekking company that neither pollutes nor compromises Ladakh’s fragile ecology.
Thinlas also co-founded the Ladakhi Women’s Welfare Network, a social organization that educates women on their legal rights
10 THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
In addition to the work she does in her community, as a social entrepreneur and activist, Thinlas is a respected Dragons instructor who guides summer and semester courses in Ladakh and will lead the 2017 North India four-week trekking-intensive course.
REBECCA WINSLOW: Leadership is an important quality in both
what to do. Last year we had four teams with 12 women per team.
Dragons courses and trekking. In your opinion, what are the qualities
But it is hard because there is a local club that runs the league. Every
that make someone a good leader?
year women have to fight to play. One year they didn’t allow women
THINLAS CHOROL: The main thing is being able to deal with conflict
to play because they said they didn’t have enough funds. But every
in groups. Maybe there are problems or a situation in which someone
year men are allowed to play. In 2014, they suddenly said there were
doesn’t get along, but as a leader you have to deal with conflict and
not enough teams so women couldn’t play. To the boys, they don’t
move on. You have to focus on the goal, the reason you are there.
say this.
RW: In what ways do you feel that Ladakh has changed since you
were in school? Are there things that haven’t changed? TC: Ladakh has changed in many ways. Many Ladakhis no longer live
in traditional kinds of houses nor only eat traditional kinds of food. Nowadays people are eating more food that they didn’t eat before, like rice. And people are more competitive with each other. I think there are very few things that haven’t changed in some way. Like in agriculture, people are farming in the same traditional ways [as they have for centuries], but technology has improved and the varieties of food has improved. RW: Do you have any thoughts on politics in India? TC: Generally, politics are in a negative way; this is true in Ladakh
and throughout India. Educated people don’t want to participate in politics. In India, only gundas (thugs) go into politics: they don’t have a good education or professional opportunities. So there are many uneducated people in Ladakh in politics. Intelligent, honest people
RW: You train many young women to be trekking guides. What do
don’t want to participate in politics. So these people work to change
you look for in the women you train? What do you try to teach them?
society through other means like NGOs and social organizations.
TC: When I hire a guide, mostly I want to see if they have an interest
RW: In addition to your trekking company, you run the Ladakh
must be capable of carrying 10 kilograms and walk for a long time.
in becoming a guide. They also have to be strong physically; they Women’s Welfare Network. What is the situation for women in
Once we hire them, we train them to speak English because many
Ladakh these days?
guides come from remote villages so their English is very weak.
TC: It [gender rights] has improved in some ways, but in other ways
Once it is improved, we train them on how to be porters. This way,
it’s generally still not good. Men control so much while women have
they learn the rules and get to know the area by shadowing the
to maintain the house, take care of the kids and often do/perform/
guides. We teach them about Buddhism and certain monasteries so
find a job. At the Ladakh Women Welfare Network we are trying to
they can teach the clients. We also teach them trekking skills and
push the government for women’s rights. Recently, they [government
environmental knowledge.
officials] asked if Ladakh is safe for women doing business. So we
Camping and trekking is becoming a very big industry in Ladakh
polled lots of people and wrote a petition to the government asking
and people are always throwing their waste in the mountains. I
them to improve transportation, among other things, and to make
recently climbed Stok Kangri (20,000 ft mountain near to Leh that
the situation safer for women. We also help individual women whose
draws many climbers) and there was garbage all over. I don’t like any
husbands are alcoholics or refuse to acknowledge or support their
garbage in the mountains. Leave no trace, right? We have to educate
children. No one is helping them, so we are doing it.
the local people on how to go into mountains without polluting. If guides are aware they can teach anyone with them, even the clients.
RW: You have also worked with the Ladakhi Women’s Ice Hockey
The environment in Ladakh is so fragile. If we destroy the land it will
League. Do the teams face any challenges?
take a long time to recover.
TC: Very few women play hockey in Ladakh. Sometimes they are not
allowed to play. We give them skates and equipment and teach them
This interview has been edited for length and content.
ORGANIZATIONS MENTIONED IN THE INTERVIEW:
Ladakhi Women’s Travel Company www.ladakhiwomenstravel.com Ladakhi Women’s Welfare Network www.facebook.com/groups/womensissuesinladakh Ladakh Women Ice Hockey Fund www.facebook.com/lwihf
REBECCA WINSLOW i s a longtime Dragons instructor (Sikkim ’15, Visions of India ’15, North India ’16, Himalaya ’16). She is a committed
experiential educator who has lived and taught in India for many years and speaks fluent Urdu and Hindi, in addition to passable Malayalam.
WWW.WHERETHEREBEDRAGONS.COM
11
Visionary Nepal: Health Camps & Earthquake Recovery WORDS STAFF IMAGES AMRIT ALE
L
ongtime Dragons instructor and current Himalaya Program Coordinator, Amrit Ale, is something of a
modern-day renaissance man. Artist, educator, activist,
adventurer, he is seldom sedentary. But Amrit’s voice gets low and resonant when I ask him about the mountains. “They are my habitat,” he says in a way that suggests each peak not only has a name, but is sentient and singular. “My life’s work is rooted in my explorations of and deep commitment to the sustainability of the Himalaya.” Amrit began his guiding career on Nepal’s Class V whitewater. He was subsequently contracted by NOLS (Wyoming-based National Outdoor Leadership School) to work in the American Rockies. In 2008, Amrit returned to Nepal to work with Dragons as a summer and semester course instructor. Since 2013, Amrit has stepped into an administrative position, and now serves as a key pillar to Dragons Nepal-based summer, semester and educator programs. Amrit is an integral team-member who liaises with Dragons homestay communities and ISP mentors, manages Dragons treks, and in all other ways interfaces on our behalf with key community relationships. In 2013, Amrit founded Himalayan Quests, a charitable enterprise dedicated to bringing healthcare to remote, rural parts of Nepal. Amrit’s foundation works with an international team of volunteer doctors and offers free access to health care to those in need. Over the course of four years nearly 5,000 patients have received care, thanks in large part to Amrit’s vision. Volunteer clinicians focus primarily on eye care and women’s reproductive health issues, treatments which are sorely lacking in these isolated areas of the Himalaya. More recently, Amrit has been focusing his energy on earthquake relief initiatives, supported in part by $20,000 in contributions from the Dragons community. All proceeds go to rebuilding efforts in some of the hardest-hit villages in the Himalaya, some that have hosted students for many years. Amrit’s commitment to the mountains continues to manifest in the form of altruism. It follows that his photographs do not tell a story so much as they speak from his soul. “Photography,” he says, “is a vehicle that has the capacity to bring the people and places I love to the rest of the world.” RIGHT: Hundreds of ‘dancing shaman’ streaming up toward
sacred Gosai Kunda Lake in Nepal’s Langtang National Park for the full moon in August. Amrit traveled with thousands of pilgrims accompanying the caravan of shaman for a week during the Junai Purina festival. 12
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
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13 
TOP LEFT: 2014 Fall Himalaya students
reflecting on the tranquil shores of Gosai Kunda Lake (4,380m) after the first snows. The lake is typically frozen over from October to June. TOP RIGHT: Elderly patient from
western Nepal wearing a pair of glasses prescribed by health camp volunteers. LOWER RIGHT: Amrit and assistant with
an elderly dental patient at the 2013 health camp. She is seeing a picture of herself for the first time. INSIDE RIGHT: Hundreds of rural villagers
waiting to register for consultations with doctors at the 2014 health camp. Every year Dragons students have an opportunity to do homestays in this village, Yasangja, Nepal, with local host families. BOTTOM LEFT: Eighteen-month old
Dikshya after a sight-restoring operation for congenital bilateral cataracts.
14
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
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15 
Tackling Heropreneurship WORDS & IMAGE DANIELA PAPI-THORNTON REPRINTED FROM THE STANFORD SOCIAL INNOVATION REVIEW ON 2/23/2016 (WWW.TACKLINGHEROPRENEURSHIP.COM)
WHY WE NEED TO MOVE FROM “THE SOCIAL ENTREPRENEUR” TO SOCIAL IMPACT
S
tep aside, Superman, there’s a new kind
stream of new social entrepreneurship
and went on to work on solving it. These
of superhero in town. We’ve entered
training courses, and increasing numbers of
people shifted how systems worked through
an era of heropreneurship, where reverence
students graduating and jumping straight into
collaborative cross-sector efforts, and though
for the heroic social entrepreneur has led
launching a social venture. As I’ve watched
generating income was part of their work,
countless people to pursue a career path
more and more students focus their ventures
their efforts and influence far outreached the
that promises opportunities to save the
on problems they haven’t lived, such as
size of their businesses. Many educators and
world, gain social status, and earn money, all
building an app for African farmers when
funders share my concern that the focus now
at the same time. In business schools across
the founding team has neither farmed nor
is on a distilled and mass-produced version of
North America and Europe, the longest
been to Africa, my worries have grown about
the promise of the social entrepreneur.
waiting lists—once reserved for investment
the way we teach, fund, and celebrate social
banking interviews—are now shared by
entrepreneurship. I wondered whether others
hack-a-thons, accelerators, business incu-
entrepreneurship training courses and social
had the same conflicting feelings as me:
bators, and social entrepreneurship training
impact events. The coffers of social collateral
excitement about the good intentions, but
courses are around every corner. They mostly
have shifted, and starting a social business is
concern about how they were manifesting. So
focus on training people with the skills they
at the top of the Type A student’s to-do list.
I decided to do some research.
need to start a social business, neglecting the
I’ve watched this shift first hand, first as
16
I conducted more than 40 interviews with
In this “everyone an entrepreneur” era,
many other skills required to fully understand
an MBA student, and now through working
educators, funders, and entrepreneurs, and
in a business school and speaking with
had dozens of conversations with students.
students at universities around the world. I’ve
Many noted that the term “social entrepre-
people need a more holistic set of skills,
witnessed a significant increase in the number
neur,” which began to gain popularity more
including systems thinking, an understanding
of students listing their career ambitions
than 20 years ago, used to refer to people
of collaboration tools to further collective
as “being a social entrepreneur,” a growing
who had first-hand experience with a problem
impact, and lateral leadership skills such
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
a problem and fuel social change. To really change a system, I believe
as the ability to lead without power and to
My conversations led me to a number of
galvanize movement toward a common goal
ideas for how we could work to redirect this
across a diverse and disjointed solutions
plethora of good intention. Here are a few:
ecosystem. They also need a grounded
We need to provide funding for learning,
they can help replicate, connect, and redesign broken systems. To do this, we launched a Social Impact Careers Conference at Oxford; are planning
understanding of themselves and their skills,
not just solving. A good example of this is
an Alumni Award; and are bringing in a wider
such as how they like to work, which roles in
the “Apprenticing with a Problem” funding
range of role models to inspire our students
a team best fit their skills, and if/how their
(inspired by Peery Foundation Executive
to apprentice with the problems they care
risk tolerance fits with the range of social
Director Jessamyn Shams-Lau, who first
about. For example, the unique journey of
impact career options. Finally, if they plan to
introduced me to the term) that I helped
people like Avani Patel—who apprenticed with
HEROPRENEURSHIP (noun): THE PROMOTION AND HERO-WORSHIPING OF ENTREPRENEURSHIP AS THE ULTIMATE SIGN OF SUCCESS, LEADING US TOWARDS A WORLD WITH A PROLIFERATION OF REPEATED AND DISJOINTED EFFORTS AND TOO FEW PEOPLE LOOKING TO JOIN AND GROW THE BEST ORGANIZATIONS take a leadership or strategic role in solving a
launch at the Skoll Centre at Oxford’s Saïd
education problems, first as a teacher and
problem, they need a deep understanding of
Business School. Only applicant teams
later as a school administrator, before taking
the reality of that problem.
that have lived the problem they are
a role managing philanthropic educational
trying to solve or can prove that they have
investments—serves to inspire others seeking
who get the funding to try their hand at
“apprenticed with” it can apply for funds to
ways to contribute to the social change.
solving global challenges haven’t lived those
startup a venture. But others can now apply
problems themselves. This comes from a
for funds to go out and learn more about
questions. If we want to create solutions to
range of biases. Donors, for example, often
the issue they care about—to support an
global challenges that are grounded in a
fund people they can relate to, and as the
internship with a social impact organization in
deep understanding of those problems and
Dunning-Krugar effect explains, we often
a similar challenge or geography, for instance.
primed to fuel collaboration and collective
Unfortunately, all too often, the people
think the problems we know less about are
We also need to create more incentives
We need to ask collaboration and learning
impact, then we need to fund only the ones
easier to solve. The obsession with becoming
and tools for students to learn about
that are primed to do that! But many funding
“a founder” also arises from a lack of diverse
problems and to identify a range of ways
applications and accelerator programs ask
educational funding programs. For example,
they might contribute to solutions—beyond
more questions about business competition
most universities offer competitions or
their business ideas. Our ecosystem mapping
than collaboration. What if every social
funding to help students start a venture, but
competition at Oxford’s Saïd Business School,
impact funder asked startup applicants this:
don’t have contests and tools to support
for example, aims to reward students for their
“What five organizations working in the same
them in learning about and then “apprenticing
understanding of problems they care about,
sector, within the same geography, or with
with” the problems they care about.
and I have developed an Impact Gaps Canvas,
the same demographic have you spoken with,
which others can build on, to help students
and how have you built on the lessons you
think through the solutions mapping process.
learned from their successes and failures?” If
We—the educators, social entrepreneurship training program designers, social impact funders, and university
We need to celebrate a range of social
we encourage and celebrate “building on,” we
professors who give money and accolades to
impact roles. Many students believe that
will hopefully end up with fewer innovations
students to go out and solve problems before
entrepreneurs are at the top of the impact
designed in a vacuum, and applicants will feel
we’ve given them the tools to understand
careers hierarchy, but this isn’t the case. We
less pressure to prove they are unique and
those problems—are largely to blame for this
also need people to join and help grow those
more pressure to prove they’ve learned about
phenomenon. We’re wasting limited resources
startups, as well as people to take roles in
the problem and current solutions landscape
on shallow solutions to complex problems,
more traditional businesses, governments,
before building their business solution.
and telling our students it’s OK to go out
and organizations to help transform them
and use someone else’s time and backyard
from the inside. Educators need to highlight
tackling heropreneurship will need to be a
as a learning ground, without first requiring
a range of high-impact career options and
collective effort. How do you think we can
that they earn the right to take leadership on
role models, spread out the accolades, and
better channel good intentions into collective
solving a problem they don’t yet understand.
help students identify a range of roles where
positive impact?
As with any other systemic problem,
DANIELA PAPI-THORNTON has been a partner in the development of Dragons Cambodia programs since 2007. She is the deputy director of
the Skoll Centre for Social Entrepreneurship at Oxford’s Saïd Business School. She previously founded a social venture built on solving a problem she hadn’t lived, and she now works to share the lessons she learned in social entrepreneurship education and volunteer travel in an effort to try to help others apprenticing with problems before starting an organization to try to solve them. Daniela recently wrote Tackling Heropreneurship (www.tacklingheropreneurship.com) and is currently co-authoring a book on Learning Service (www.learningservice.info). PHOTO D aniela speaking at the Skoll Centre for Social Entrepreneurship’s Emerge Conference at Oxford with her son Skye Thornton, born September 2016.
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17
Reflections from a Homestay Sister WORDS MERTIN LUSI IMAGE FIONA SHERMAN TRANSLATION RITA SRI SUWANTARI, AARON SLOSBERG & LINDSAY OLSEN
AS INSTRUCTORS AND STUDENTS, WE ARE THE PERPETUAL RECIPIENTS OF SO MUCH SEEMINGLY UNCONDITIONAL HOSPITALITY. EVERYWHERE WE GO DOORS OPEN, CUPS OF FRESH COFFEE ARE POURED, AND THE BEST FOOD IN THE HOUSE TROTTED OUT. WE LIVE AMONGST KINDNESS THAT WE DO NOT DESERVE NOR COULD EVER RECIPROCATE. SO TO HEAR MERTIN’S PERSPECTIVE IS A WELCOME REMINDER THAT HOST FAMILIES ARE ENGAGED IN THEIR OWN PARALLEL EXPERIENCES.
D
ragons is a good teacher for the
community of Langa.
I am a writer, and still it is difficult to
In addition, there is the matter of discipline. Bule seem very disciplined with
The students of Rita Sri Suwantari, Matt
time, while the local community lacks
find the words to describe my experience
Colaciello Williams, and Rachel Russell were
punctuality. I have come to believe that
with Dragons. Even if I could use numbers, I
physically so different from us. These bule
being aware of timing is very important in
couldn’t count the ways to say thank you, to
had white skin. Their bodies were twice as
leadership. Bule love cleanliness; they won’t
express the sum total of my gratitude. Words
tall as ours. They seemed really intelligent.
just throw trash on the ground. The local
cannot adequately describe the feeling, the
There were so many facets to our difference
people still throw their trash wherever and
spirit that has been cultivated in the creation
that it made me even more anxious to
this negatively impacts our health.
of such a masterpiece.
interact with them.
I am just a countrywoman who lives in a small village in Indonesia. Our village is called
Before they arrived, we had prepared
Bule also seem very intelligent and like to master their skills. I have learned so many
everything. Every home in the village was
wonderful things from hosting Dragons
Bomari, and it’s located at the foot of Mt.
busy getting ready for the arrival of the
students, about their country, about their
Inerie, the highest volcano in Flores, which
students, prepping our houses, preparing to
lives, and about myself. I think Dragons is
rises above us like a grand pyramid.
communicate, even consulting “Mr. Google”
an extraordinary organization that provides
in case of a communication emergency.
exceptional experiential education to young people.
It is hard to believe that it’s already been four times, four times living with foreigners
Despite all this, we knew most of the
who we would normally just call “bule,”
time we would have to rely on non-verbal
sharing a life together for two weeks. It
communication.
all started in February 2015 when Aaron
Living in one home with two different
Slosberg surveyed my village and came to an
cultures there surely would be so many
agreement with my parents to use our family
things we both couldn’t understand.
as a homestay for Dragons students.
Many people in my village lack higher education, and most of us don’t even speak English. There are so many things about our lives that aren’t the way we wish they were. Still, I feel we have something to teach
However, over time, I came to realize, all
Dragons students. I hope both the good and
these small differences, even though
bad experiences from staying in our village
however, I was really doubtful about trying
seemingly insignificant, began to deeply
will affect the students: make them stronger
the homestay program. It seemed like such
affect my way of thinking.
individuals, who are better prepared to care
As a young person, I like challenges,
an impossible task to host a foreigner.
Bule always say thank you and show
for others in their own communities and
appreciation for everything, even though
environments. I hope the students can use
“Why would a bule want to stay here?”
they may not like every situation. This is
our shortcomings as the basis to become
“Their life is so different from our life here!”
so different from our own people. In our
individuals who want to create change.
“Can they eat rice everyday?”
society, we feel awkward or shy saying
“What will they do about the food here?”
thank you or showing appreciation to others
so proud to have this friendship with the
“Oh, our house is too ugly for them!”
for small things. I believe this is the reason
students who have stayed with us. I’m sure
“Our bedroom is so tiny!”
why sometimes we can be held back in our
they are not just ordinary students that
“We do not even have a nice bathroom.”
18
I was so nervous when the first Dragons group arrived to our village in April 2015.
As just a simple village woman, I feel
way of thinking. I’m sure when someone
choose to come to Langa. I believe they want
shows gratitude to someone else, even if
to become part of our family—we become friends to make both of our lives complete.
All this negative energy spiraled in my
it’s not expressed perfectly, this practice
head. My nerves became so intense I almost
will build self-confidence in that person
There are so many people in our
backed out of our agreement to host a
and improve the quality of his or her work.
community who can’t hold back tears when
student, but the support and the spirit of
Lately, I’m starting to see our community
it comes time to say goodbye. Even I will
the youth in my village convinced me not to
show gratitude to others, which has been an
always have tears in my eyes each time I
change my mind.
amazing revelation.
have to say goodbye to my new friends.
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
EVERY HOME IN THE VILLAGE WAS BUSY GETTING READY FOR THE ARRIVAL OF THE STUDENTS, PREPPING OUR HOUSES, PREPARING TO COMMUNICATE, EVEN CONSULTING “MR. GOOGLE” IN CASE OF A COMMUNICATION EMERGENCY. DESPITE ALL THIS, WE KNEW MOST OF THE TIME WE WOULD HAVE TO RELY ON NON-VERBAL COMMUNICATION.
They may never know this, as it is a secret
maintain a strong relationship with Dragons.
inspired your students to become part
that as a community we keep. We do not
I truly believe Dragons is an amazing
of this community and feel comfortable
know when or if we will meet again, maybe
organization. You have a great mission to
relating to everyone here. Thank you to the
for the rest of our lives we will never meet,
make people into human beings, even a
students who have become my teachers, my
but the students will always be in our hearts.
village woman like me.
friends, and my family: Spencer Hardy, Eleni
When we think of the students here, when we miss them, we will sift back through all the
I want to thank Rita Sri Suwantari,
Fernald, Benyamin Yih, and Katherine Georgia
honestly you are one of my greatest
Comfort. Thank you Dragons, whoever you
beautiful memories we shared together. Like
inspirations. Thank you also to Matt
are, I am your family.
family, far away from us, it is all we can do.
Colaciello Williams and Aaron Slosberg,
I hope, as the years roll on, we will
both of you are amazing leaders who have
MERTIN LUSI is the first woman from Ngada Regency to graduate university with a degree in journalism, and later
committed herself to detailing the abuses of the prostitution industry in Surabaya, Indonesia’s second largest city. She has since returned to Flores to work on community development projects in some of the island’s poorest, most remote areas, and is currently organizing youth groups in Langa to empower young women to share their stories through journalism. Mertin built Langa’s first library, which doubles as the entrance to her house. PHOTO A fter a week-long homestay in Langa, a Dragons group leaves for the airport in Ende with a loving send off from
their families. Mertin is pictured in the center of the image wearing a purple shirt.
WWW.WHERETHEREBEDRAGONS.COM
19
Mertin, Ita & the Langa Library WORDS FIONA SHERMAN IMAGE FLORES, INDONESIA FALL 2015
I WAS BLESSED TO HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO STAY WITH MERTIN AND THE REST OF THE LUSI FAMILY IN LANGA THIS SUMMER. IT MAY SOUND CLICHÉ, BUT I COULDN’T HAVE ASKED FOR A BETTER HOST SISTER. I FELL IN LOVE WITH HER AND THE PUBLIC LIBRARY IN LANGA. THE SHELVES OF THE LIBRARY MAY STILL BE BARE IN SOME PLACES, BUT SOON THEY WILL HOUSE SOME OF THE BOOKS SHE LONGS FOR ABOUT THE HOLOCAUST, THE TESTIMONY OF DR. MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. AND THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF MALCOLM X. I HOPE TO PLAY A SMALL ROLE IN MAKING THAT A REALITY.
I
n the days approaching our departure from Langa, our homestay
brought me hot tea and homemade donuts. She cooked three meals a
families suddenly felt incredibly inadequate. This small consortium
day, every day, while working on a coffee plantation in a neighboring
of coffee farming villages seemed to think we were leaving because
town and caring for her three-year-old son. I was constantly amazed
of their limitations as hosts, even though we had all known this
by her diligence and enthusiasm.
day would come. From the moment we set foot in Langa, we were
I sometimes went with my other sister, Mertin, to visit Ita at the
told that we were part of the community; we were all immediately
coffee plantation. Unlike Ita, Mertin is a journalist. Actually, she is
brothers, sisters, and friends of every person and every clan. Our
the only female journalist in all of Bajawa, the capital of the Ngada
families worked tirelessly to house us, feed us, provide for us, all the
Regency in which she resides. She teaches introductory courses
while maintaining their more or less normal work schedules.
on journalism, leads a local youth group called the Langa Trekking
As we were hugging goodbye, they continued to apologize for
Community, and has founded and curated Langa’s first and only
not being able to give us the comforts we enjoyed in the States.
public library, the Public Library Isi Langa. Our family kept a portrait
It upset them that we might not have been happy in their homes
of her in a sleek black cap and gown, graduating from the Universitas
because we didn’t have our usual technology, plumbing, food, decor,
Tribhuwana Tunggadewi in Java, outside of the kitchen. They are all so
etc. Whenever I came home my sister, Maria Carmelita, nicknamed Ita,
proud of her.
20 THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
Many Indonesians who travel to attend university on islands
Langans have taken charge to cinch the promise of a bright future.
such as Java or Bali find few employment opportunities back home.
Mertin is optimistic; she believes that the community activism she and
Many graduates end up resettling in cities to find civil servant jobs.
others are involved in can channel the course Langa will follow as it
Many parents dream of sending their children off to college, but are
continues to develop. She was so happy when the Dragons students
shocked and dismayed that this dream may separate them indefinitely.
this summer offered to try and facilitate her library project from the
HER PEOPLE BELIEVED THEY WERE TOO SMALL, TOO SCANT FOR OUR WESTERN TASTES. THEY ASKED FOR OUR FORGIVENESS BECAUSE THEY COULDN’T PROVIDE US WITH MORE. ITA WAS SORRY THAT I HADN’T COME HOME TO HOT FOOD EVERY NIGHT. MERTIN WAS SHOCKED THAT I WOULD WANT TO VISIT AGAIN, TO LIVE WITH THEM AGAIN. THOSE OF US WHO HAVE BEEN SO PRIVILEGED TO STAY IN THE VILLAGES OF LANGA HAVE BEEN TOLD WE ARE KIN, FOR NOW AND FOREVER. In Langa almost nothing is as important as family, so Mertin has taken
States. She started to cry when we told her we would try to come
it upon herself to not only remain in her hometown, but to use her
back to help in person. We were all so grateful to Mertin, the Langa
skills to benefit her townspeople.
Trekking Community, and all of our families and friends for showing us
A recent study published by the Central Connecticut State
how love motivates innovation and fosters a tireless work ethic. Each
University found that, out of the world’s 61 most literate nations,
person in this community truly exemplified a level of commitment and
Indonesia had the second lowest rates of literacy and computer
tenacity that I doubt any of us had ever seen before.
access, ranking at 60. In her community, Mertin lamented that reading
Mertin told me that all she wants from us, from Dragons, or from
is not a popular pastime. Many people end up dropping out of school
anyone—more so than money—was books. She wants to fill her library
before receiving a high school diploma because they aren’t offered
with new and exciting literature: books on Gandhi, Mandela and Hitler.
vocational training that pertains to coffee farming. According to UNESCO, Indonesia’s gross enrollment ratio for college-aged students in tertiary school was only 25 percent in 2011. This is lower than both the global average of 31 percent, and, with the
In the future, Dragons hopes to have each student come to Langa with a book to donate to the library. Real, meaningful, positive change in developing communities can only be accomplished through these communities identifying
exception of India, lower than any of the BRIC nations. Enrollment
the challenges they face and then working with their international
in high schools has improved, but still remains at 51 percent, just
friends to find a functional solution. In the case of Langa, we can
over half of the population of teens aged 15 to 18 and far below the
help expand and encourage education through book donations. As
average for Southeast Asia, of 65 percent.
students and teenagers ourselves, Dragons Indonesia students can
The Indonesian government wants to enroll at least one quarter of its college-aged residents in an institution of higher learning by 2020.
help realize the vision Mertin has for her people, by bringing an extra book in their carry-on. They can be a part of a sincere, humble
Mertin hopes to be a part of this change by working with the youth of
movement, and learn a paramount lesson on ethics in international
Langa. She wants to help children love to read, love their environment,
aid. What Mertin has started is important to us in ways I don’t think
love each other, love their heritage, and love themselves. She hopes
she’s realized.
that her work can help to combat human trafficking in Bajawa and generally empower local youth. Langa is certainly a community in transition. With tourism on the
Her people believed they were too small, too scant for our Western tastes. They asked for our forgiveness because they couldn’t provide us with more. Ita was sorry that I hadn’t come home to hot
rise and more young people going to university, many village elders
food every night. Mertin was shocked that I would want to visit again,
are concerned about the future. They worry that more people will
to live with them again. Those of us who have been so privileged to
find work and settle down in cities far away, that their culture could
stay in the villages of Langa have been told we are kin, for now and
be swept off as they’re exposed to more technology and social media,
forever. Dragons students traveling there in the future will be told the
and that they simply aren’t ready for the drastic changes ensuing.
same. Our relatives in Langa have enriched our lives and changed
Forty years ago, the homes in Langa were still roofed with straw. Now,
our definitions of family and of love. Through Mertin and through the
all sorts of new products and technologies have been incorporated
library, we now have a way to give back to that community and to our
into Bajawan society, such as tin roofs, chainsaws and machines to
families that, in the same way they couldn’t understand how strongly
peel coffee beans like a cotton gin.
we were impacted by their kindness, is so much more powerful than
The future of this community is uncertain. But a few bright
we can ever really comprehend.
FIONA SHERMAN joined the Dragons family in 2016 (Indonesia ‘16). She is currently studying politics at Oberlin College in Ohio and hopes to
pursue a career in international relations. She will be attending the North India six-week program in the summer of 2017. PHOTO Dragons student puts the finishing touches on the entrance to Mertin’s home, which doubles as Langa’s public library.
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The Power of GO WORDS SCOTT COE IMAGE LINDSAY COE, ANDES & AMAZON FALL 2016
TRAVEL AND THE SEARCH FOR THE MOMENTS THAT MAKE US.
GO. I can’t think of another two-letter word so heavily laden with
to honest moments that celebrate their belief system, expand their
possibility and optimism. It is adventuresome, full of directive and
perspective and challenge convention. And you can’t get that on a
imbued with hope. It compels you to action. And it’s perhaps the
Disney cruise, regardless of how many climbing walls and jet skis they
easiest way to describe the sea of change in human behavior that
offer.
spreads before us today. In my work, I spend a lot of time considering the emotional
Yet people of all ages are seeking out the edges. The raw and the new. The moments that wed us to a sense of place as travelers rather
triggers that cause us, as consumers, to act one way or another.
than tourists, and allow us to return home with perspective beyond
Those triggers evolve over time, and each generation—from boomers
ourselves. It is that last point that brings me to the concept around
to GenXers—has put their own stamp on what we value most. But I
which this issue is focused: Leadership and the opportunity we each
think we have today’s Millennials to thank for the power of “Go” as we
have to lead.
trade in our longing for things in favor of a quest for experiences. In seeking out experiences, we are pulled further and further
As a Dragons parent of teenage daughters, I feel like now more than ever we have the responsibility to help our children gain that
from ‘home’, toward those unique, authentic moments that are
perspective. To see beyond not only ourselves, but also beyond our
neither manufactured nor pedestrian. Quite the opposite, they are
country’s borders. To help them lean into adulthood with a sense of
deliberately raw and unscripted, and there is good reason for this.
global localism, where we think and act both globally and locally.
Our interconnected global economy has forced the world (humans,
Today’s headlines have me concerned. Not so much in a partisan
businesses and nations) to rely on each other more than ever before.
way as in how the overall narrative seems to be getting reshaped.
Technology that is capable of pulling a live video feed from across the
As a nation, we seem to becoming more insular. And our cultural
globe onto our smartphones makes the world simultaneously smaller,
compass seems to be pointing back toward ourselves, rather than
and yet accessible and exotic. With today’s product innovation
further out into the world. And that is a scary thing.
changing so rapidly, people are tired of struggling to keep pace with the latest trends, and instead, they are trading their longing for a closet full of toys for a photo album full of moments. At the core of our search for experiences is travel—the simple act of stepping past the doormat and into the world to seek out perspective. And at the forefront of travel today are those
If we homogenize society, we don’t just insulate ourselves from alternative perspectives. We miss the opportunity to expand our horizons. To invite history and culture and people into our worldview in a way you can’t learn in a textbook, or from a YouTube channel. When my oldest daughter traversed Peru and Bolivia last fall, intimately bonding with people and cultures vastly different than
destinations, both near and far, that beckon to us with experiences
the ones she knew, she grew in ways I could never have imagined.
that challenge our perspective and make us feel like locals. This
She experienced people, not policy. She saw ambition and hope
shift from tangible things to evocative experiences is why converted
and determination and kindness. She saw the world. And she gained
sprinter vans are all the rage and Airbnb is outpacing traditional hotel
perspective.
brands 10 to 1. If travel has become the new social currency, those destinations
Whether we rely on, or shun, the nightly news feed—whether we are hopeful, pessimistic, or even ambivalent to the cultural shifts
off the beaten path have the highest exchange rate. In fact, the travel
happening at home—there has never been a time more critical to
research company, Skift, recently identified such destinations as
lead the next generation and, along the way, provide them with the
Myanmar, Peru and India as top emerging markets, taking share from
perspective that will carry us collectively forward with eyes and arms
well-trodden destinations like Europe and the Caribbean. It’s not
and hearts open wide.
hard to imagine why. Pointing back to our Millennials, they are drawn
And what is more important than that?
SCOTT COE is a Dragon parent and the founder of a Colorado-based marketing and advertising agency that specializes in destination travel. PHOTO On the second day of my homestay in Tiquipaya, Bolivia, a large bus full of people slowly screeched through the gate into the yard. The
flow of my distant “family” members pouring out of the van seemed endless, each one greeting me with a kiss on the cheek. I felt awkward and out of place in this very new world, armed with only some broken Spanish. Just as fast we all piled back on, this time plus five more: my new mom (pictured on the swing), siblings, and me. Everyone was giddy and chatty, and we drove for about 60 seconds before stopping and hurrying out to a sunny, flowery field with a columpio (chair swing) which was a sacred place for tradition in this family. We swung all day, into dusk, and sang Spanish songs of celebration while everyone took turns pulling the worn ropes that made it go “¡Más rápido, más rápido!” (faster!) By the end of the day, I felt like family. And by the end of the month, I was family. And that was the most beautiful part of my trip. 22 THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
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23 
Leadership for Social Change WORDS & IMAGE ELLIE HAPPEL
ELLIE HAPPEL IS A SOCIAL JUSTICE LAWYER WHO HAS BEEN WORKING IN HAITI FOR MORE THAN A DECADE. SINCE GRADUATING LAW SCHOOL, SHE HAS WORKED CLOSELY WITH VARIOUS HAITIAN CIVIL SOCIETY GROUPS AND NYU LAW SCHOOL’S GLOBAL JUSTICE CLINIC ON CASES OF FORCED EVICTION IN THE INTERNALLY DISPLACED PEOPLE (IDP) CAMPS IN PORT-AU-PRINCE. SHE HAS A COMPLAINT FILED AGAINST THE UNITED NATIONS OVER THE INTRODUCTION OF CHOLERA INTO HAITI, AND MOST RECENTLY ON ISSUES INVOLVING HARD METAL MINING. THESE ARE SOME OF HER OBSERVATIONS.
CREATE SPACE
abolish slavery and create a free Haiti.
Leaders for social change create space
PRINCIPLES OVER POPULARITY: THE POWER OF DISSENT
for movements to thrive, change, and to
Leaders choose principles over popularity.
men in an attempt to cross the Antarctic
reinvent themselves. Often, leaders rise
They not only document injustice, but they
continent. Shackleton is famous not for the
not only because of who they are—their
demand action to change the status quo.
transverse—they failed—but for keeping
charisma or skills or vision—but because
They are the authors of (unpopular) dissent.
every member of his team alive. Shackleton
of privilege. Leaders acknowledge power
Justice Harlan was the lone dissent in the
led his team away from their ship, frozen in
and privilege, and work to create the
1896 decision Plessy v. Ferguson, arguing
the ice, on a two year journey for survival.
space for those who are less privileged to
that the Constitution is color-blind. It took
Along the way, Shackleton “got proximate.”
speak, to contribute, to shine. Strong social
58 years before Brown v. Board, when
Shackleton did not use his position of
movements push themselves to be more
the Court made this the law of the land.
leadership to insulate himself from the pain
Sir Ernest Shackleton led a team of 27
inclusive and more creative, and demand
Justice Oliver Wendell Holmes famously
of the journey. The ship’s captain, Frank
leadership that embraces plurality. Leaders
dissented to promote free speech. Recently,
Worsley, said that it was Shackleton’s rule
invite movements to grow in size and to
Justice Sotomayor has authored dissenting
that “any deprivation should be felt by
grow in imagination, to strive tomorrow for
opinions to document and criticize the racial
himself before anyone else.” For more, go to:
a dream that is unforeseen today. Strong
discrimination in our criminal justice system.
bit.ly/1qpL7G8
leadership and strong movements embrace
The authors of dissenting opinions and the
LEADERSHIP FOR SOCIAL CHANGE
nonconformity and embrace change. They
promoters of unpopular ideas are rarely iden-
practice inclusivity.
tified as leaders. They should be. In dissenting, in voicing the unpopular, they encourage
Movements make the leader as much as
GET PROXIMATE
alternative visions and promote change.
the leader makes the movement. Leaders
DARE TO CHANGE COURSE
ambitious, inclusive social movements.
Equal Justice Initiative, said “If you are not
Leaders dare to change course. Two
They not only listen to the people, but they
proximate, you cannot change the world.”
examples are Toussaint Louverture, leader of
work in close enough proximity to know
Getting proximate means knowing the
the Haitian revolution, and Ernest Shackleton.
the people, and they give the movement
People, the masses, the Other. True proximity
Toussaint Louverture allied with the Spanish,
the space it needs to thrive. Leading for
breeds empathy, and is possible only in
the French, and then fought for Haiti’s
social change is less about individual
the absence of fear. Proximity disappears
independence, the only slave revolt to result
qualities of character than about the back
Leaders get proximate. Bryan Stevenson, founder and Executive Director of the
for social change encourage broad,
the Other. It creates unity; differences are
in a sovereign nation. According to C.L.R.E.
and forth between leaders and the masses,
celebrated and respected, and a common
James’ account, The Black Jacobins, from the
the process of collectively dreaming and
vision is defined.
beginning Louverture had a singular goal: to
redesigning a more just world.
ELLIE HAPPEL ’S first experience with Dragons was on a summer program in Dolpo, Nepal. Ellie was later admitted to NYU Law School as a Root
Tilden Kern scholar in 2008 where she focused on racial justice issues. She has since worked on environmental justice and public health issues in Nicaragua, Bolivia, Peru and Washington, D.C. Ellie has led Dragons programs in Guatemala, India, and Peru. She most recently led Dragons Fall 2016 Andes and Amazon Semester. PHOTO Haitian community leaders and Ellie conduct a survey on access to water in communities affected by mining in Haiti.
24 THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
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25 
International Law & the House of Wisdom INTERVIEWER JUSTIN KIERSKY IMAGE ELKE SCHMIDT
HUMAN RIGHTS LAWYER, OSAMA MOFTAH, TOOK A SABBATICAL LAST SUMMER TO LEAD THE JORDAN COURSE. WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM TO DISCUSS INTERNATIONAL LAW, LEADERSHIP AND THE CIRCUITOUS GLOBAL HIGHWAY THAT LED HIM TO WORK WITH DRAGONS STUDENTS. WHERE THERE BE DRAGONS (WTBD): Welcome back to the world of
WTBD: Is it mere pessimism to doubt that the global community can
Dragons, Osama. I imagine it has been quite a transition to shift from
aspire to create a world in which human rights and social justice are
the mindset of an educator teaching in the Jordanian deserts back
equally valued because nations will always be unwilling to relinquish
to a human rights lawyer working in a Danish office. Thank you for
their sovereignty? What changes are needed to make the UN
taking time to sit down with us and share your thoughts. To begin,
effective?
can you tell us a little about the significant events that catalyzed your
OM: Human rights and peace and security are two of the three
commitment to human rights and democracy?
founding pillars of the United Nations. After 70 years, we can
OSAMA MOFTAH: The 2005 Egyptian parliamentary election is an
look back and say we have come a long way and human rights is
event that changed the face of political life in Egypt, and hence, my
undeniably a universal norm. We now have international human
political views. I was in my third year in university when the Egyptian
rights institutions such as the Human Rights Council that include all
government allowed civil society, for the first time, to monitor
UN members. Something we never imagined to happen 70 years
elections. I observed this election and through it was able to learn
ago. However, globalization brought complexities that are perceived
about democracy and be a part of the first Arab groups who worked
as threats to national sovereignty by many nations. Therefore,
on the election. This was the first election in an Arab country to
more nations are less committed and some are even considering
be observed by civil society. The 2005 experience put me in touch
withdrawing from international agreements. The UN can do more
with the right people who continue to be dedicated to the cause
by being a truly ‘global organization’ that upholds a universal
of democracy and human rights. That was the driving factor that
understanding of global issues. To achieve this the UN must reshape
motivated me to work in this field.
its programs and place individuals at the center of its work. A quick
When I finished university I wanted to do my master’s degree and, somehow, the University for Peace caught my attention. It is part of
look at the UN official records will show us that only 3% of the total UN regular budget is allocated to human rights. Moreover, concepts
the UN academic arm and exists in Costa Rica, the first country to
like global citizenship tend to fall through the cracks. The UN can do
demolish its army. The whole experience was fascinating to me and I
more by directing its work towards world citizens and not relying as
learned a great many things while I was there. I also wanted to meet
heavily on governments. There is a great chance for success if we
with Oscar Arias, president of Costa Rica at the time, and I managed
raise the awareness of global citizens.
to do so. He was a fascinating politician who managed to play an important role in conflict mediation throughout Latin America. I had a
WTBD: What do you feel are the greatest challenges to human rights
conversation with him about his political role and I’m always imbued
and international rule of law?
with a sense of pride when I see my picture with him.
OM: The biggest challenge is the fact that most governments are
WTBD: For the youth who have grown up in Middle Eastern countries
success of the current international system rests on the success of its
embroiled in war, is it crazy to think that hope will one day soon
governments. The global refugee crisis is an example of the failure
spring eternal? How do we avoid those fatalistic tropes and clichés
of our international system. Governments are unable to receive more
unable to deliver services and many are in total collapse. The
that suggest it won’t?
refugees and do not want to contribute enough to the UN to look for
OM: Many writers say that the Middle East will have a lost generation.
solutions. It is fair to say that ideas such as entrepreneurship and the
This is the gloomy forecast about the future Middle East. There are
role of individuals do not exist in the current UN funding plans. There
two things to stay hopeful about the whole situation: 1) Thanks to big
is always a chance to fund UN projects through individuals but this
data, we are now in a better position to design policies that tackle the
is not considered a legitimate solution yet. Individuals can play an
root causes of problems and quicken the pace of change. 2) If we put
active and positive role in solving international conflicts and the UN
sufficient resources in play, change will take less time. Take the Syrian
can help in reaching this.
refugees as an example. In less than three years, Syrian refugee
26
groups reached different ends based on their destination countries.
WTBD: To many, the Muslim world has become synonymous with
The more the international community gets involved, the better off
divisiveness and intolerance. Can you elucidate a broader, more
refugees will be. I saw this when I worked with Syrian refugees in
nuanced, interpretation of leadership in Islam?
Lebanon, Egypt, Jordan and Turkey. Same people, strikingly different
OM: It is unfortunate that the good guidance provided in the Quran
results in just three years, depending on international support.
and Sunnah does not deliver with its wisdom the power of self-
THE MAP’S EDGE Spring 2017
implementation. We have a duty as Muslims to understand and
‘American Dream’, the dream to live in a place that combines the best
materialize these teachings in a manner befitting our societies. In the
of all cultures and civilizations.
past, Islamic culture played a positive role in the Middle East when it was a blend of Arab, Egyptian, Persian and Greek cultures. This
We only advance when we open ourselves to others, even in Middle Eastern and Islamic countries. When I look at our history in
led to strong societies and stunning intellectual achievements. This
the Middle East, I see a similar pattern. Islamic civilization owes part
is what we call the Islamic Golden Age under the Abbasid dynasty.
of its achievements to other cultures. The House of Wisdom that was
Islamic culture now plays a negative role in dividing Middle Eastern
built by the Abbasid caliphates is proof in this regard. It was built as a
societies, and each culture wants to impose itself upon others. There
formal institution mandated to translate books from other languages
are different interpretations of Islamic texts right now because we
into Arabic. This translation opened the door for Arabs to learn
have different types of Muslim intellectuals. In the past, Muslim
from other cultures and to build upon them. The House of Wisdom
philosophers used to be scientists who were brilliant in mathematics,
represented the top intellectual institution and nurtured many Muslim
physics and linguistics. This was the time when Al-Farabi wrote about
scientists and philosophers who shaped our understanding at that
the “virtuous city” and described types of societies and qualities
time. All people from all religions (Muslim, Christians and Jews) were
of the leader. Averroes, Avicenna and Al-Kindi are examples of
welcome to study there. It is hard to imagine the Islamic Golden Age
Muslim philosophers who translated major literatures into Arabic
without the House of Wisdom and the openness to others.
and described Islamic texts based on this understanding. Due to their intellectual leadership, previous Muslim philosophers invented
WTBD: After leading your first Dragons course in Jordan this summer,
comprehensive political theories about state administration and state
what unique lessons on leadership did you encounter?
institutions. Some concepts were too advanced for the time, and can
OM: This trip was remarkable in that it allowed me to gain different
be compared to modern institutions. For example, the concept of
perspectives on leadership and life in general. The chats we had with
Mohtasib can be seen as Islamic version of current ombudsmen.
Jordanians in cafés and supermarkets in the village showed their
Now we have different types of Muslim scholars and, hence, a
remarkable ability to provide solutions to world problems. In one
different understanding of Islamic texts. Current Muslim scholars are
conversation, some people explained to us that major business ideas
not scientists, they are not philosophers, and they hardly speak any
that we talk about in our daily lives are a replication of the simple
language other than Arabic. Their limited capacity can distort the
solutions that exist in small villages. One gentleman offered that,
good Islamic texts. This is the plain reality that we live in.
from his point of view, the ride-sharing concept adopted by Uber is merely a technological advancement similar to what village people
WTBD: While the foundations of the United States establish freedom
have done for many years on their daily trips. There are very few cars
of religion and a clear distinction between Church and State, violent
in the village, so the solution is to share limited resources for a fee or
clashes over ideology and laws of inclusion continue. Does this reality
service. Another example is Airbnb, which is the modern version of
contradict the global vision of the U.S. and its values?
a local house sharing business. This is interesting because when we
OM: I hear this question frequently and I think it reflects what people
think about all disruptive business ideas, we find them to be more
see through the media these days. My personal experience in the
similar to local traditions than outcomes summarized in books on
USA showed me another way of seeing the ‘other’. In 2012, I did a
business strategy.
brief fellowship at the U.S. Senate where I learned about American
Another example is the use of mobile financial transfers. This
democracy. The highlight of my trip was the meaning that I found
practice started in Africa and Arab countries as a way to overcome
in the design of process and even the architecture in DC. There is
the inaccessibility of banks. Some mobile companies developed the
a powerful drawing on the ceiling of the library of Congress. The
idea into a business model and it became the mobile bank. In one
drawing depicts twelve cultures, religions or countries that have
conversation, a Jordanian told us that it would be better to send
had the greatest influence on Western civilization prior to the early
American entrepreneurs to local villages rather than MBA programs
20th century. Those depicted are Judea (representing religion),
if they want to be successful. In his view, this is the place to mine for
Egypt (representing written records), Islam (representing physics),
new ideas and solutions. This is a pretty fascinating fact for me! And I
Middle Ages (representing modern languages), Spain (representing
think it is true to a large extent.
discovery), England (representing literature), France (representing emancipation), Germany (representing the art of printing), Italy
WTBD: What advice would you give to young Dragons as they
(representing the fine arts), Greece (representing philosophy), Rome
become leaders in their world?
(representing administration) and America (representing science).
OM: Travel more! I cannot see any transformative act that supersedes
This drawing shows that the USA was established as a country
the perspective that travel offers. I believe that to be a good leader
not afraid of others’ identity. In fact, it appreciated their success and
necessitates that one cultivate a love for this shared world. What
built upon it. This is the reason that many desire what is called the
better way to build empathy then to see how others live.
OSAMA MOFTAH graduated from Alexandria University with a degree in law before pursuing an M.A. in International Law and Settlement of
Disputes at the UN mandated University for Peace in Costa Rica. Osama currently lives in Copenhagen where he practices international law with an emphasis on human rights and democracy, good governance and legal reform at the Danish Institute for Human Rights.
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