Please note that the following is a digitized version of a selected article from White House History Quarterly, Issue 66, originally released in print form in 2022. Single print copies of the full issue can be purchased online at Shop.WhiteHouseHistory.org No part of this book may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All photographs contained in this journal unless otherwise noted are copyrighted by the White House Historical Association and may not be reproduced without permission. Requests for reprint permissions should be directed to rights@whha.org. Contact books@whha.org for more information. © 2022 White House Historical Association. All rights reserved under international copyright conventions.
FOREWORD Beyond Beyond the the Sparkle Sparkle style and fashion make history at the White House, and with this issue, the Quarterly’s Quarterly’s third to focus on fashion, we look at a transformational period of fifty years, 1960 to 2010, when America’s first ladies began to speak through their personal style as never before. Each official step made by a first lady is photographed and broadcast, interpreted and analyzed, criticized and praised; wardrobe and hair do not escape the scrutiny. The unrelenting attention brings daunting challenges, but the potential to communicate with a captivated public is a powerful tool as the following articles reveal. reflect. Behind the thescenes, scenes,devoted devoted andand talented talented stylists stylists and and designers designers have have helped helped each first eachlady firstestablish lady establish her “look.” her “look.” Lauren Lauren McGwin McGwin opens opens the issue thewith issuethe with lifethe and lifework and work of Jean Jean ofLouis Louis Jean Mazéas, Louis Mazéas, Mazéas, once oncedubbed dubbed once dubbed the the “coiffure “coiffure the “coiffure king king of king the of the Great ofGreat the Society.” Great Society.” The Society.” He creator wasThe the of creator Jacqueline creator of of Jacqueline Kennedy’s Kennedy’s“modified “modified Kennedy’s bouffant” “modifiedbouffant” an bouffant” key element a key an element key of element the of the modern of modthe modern sophistication ern sophistication sophistication for for which which for which she sheisisremembered. remembered. remembered, Jean Louis’s White House experience, preserved through a scrapbook studied by McGwin, continued through the Johnson administration and included two White House brides. Katherine Christian Campbell traces Kimberly Christman-Campbell tracesthe the unexpected unexpected style journey of First Lady Lady Bird Johnson, who suddenly became first lady with little experience even choosing her own clothes. Relying heavily on NeimanMarcus and slowly overcoming a reluctance to invest in the necessary wardrobe for her public role, Mrs. Johnson survived comparisons to Mrs. Kennedy by discovering her own innate style. By the end of her husband’s presidency, Lady Bird Johnson reflected that she had become “seduced” by the world of clothes. Rebecca Durgin Rebecca Durgin Kerr Kerr tellstells the story the ofstory NancyofReagan’s Nancy long collaboration with designer Galanos. Reagan’s long collaboration with James designer James Remembered now for her elegant timeless style, Mrs. Galanos. Remembered now for her elegant timeless Reagan explained, “I don’t go “I fordon’t the latest I try style, Mrs. Reagan explained, go forlook. the latest to choose clothes that look that goodlook today buttoday that will also look. I try to choose clothes good but that lookalso good tomorrow.” Most comfortable in red, which will look good tomorrow.” Favoring red, which she she considered “a pick me upper,” Reagan empaconsidered “a pick me upper,” Mrs. Mrs. Reagan empathized thizedthe with the interest her clothes but made it known with interest in herin clothes but made it known that
that when she wasn’t “on display” she dressed as “casuwhen she wasn’t “on display” she dressed as “casually as ally as possible.” possible.” With her article “The Silver Fox: Barbara Bush and her Scaasi Scaasi Fashions,” Fashions,” Mary Mary Jo Jo Binker Binker relates how the Her savvy first lady “used her clothing to telegraph approachability, caring, and warmth.” She won the public’s affection by confronting anticipated media criticism of her hair with humor andand confidence. Her wrinkles and andgray white hair with humor confidence. relatable style became as “Barbara glamour.” Mrs. Mrs. Bush relied on known her friend and designer Arnold Bush relied on her andlook, designer Arnoldthat Scaasi to Scaasi to create herfriend signature explaining when create her signature explaining that when wearing his designs,look, “I know then that I look aswearing good as designs, “I know then that I look as good as I can.” Ihis can.” Erika Cornelius Smith recounts how First Lady Laura Bush approached her wardrobe by choosing to reserve high fashion for special events and as a tool for advocacy. With a personal commitment to women’s health, Mrs. Bush donned the Red Dress pin, became the ambassador for The Heart Truth campaign, and saved lives as a result. She later reflected, “I realized the degree to which I had a unique forum as first lady. People would pay attention to what I said.” Carson Poplin writes of First Lady Michelle Obama’s wholly new approach to personal style. By mixing high shopping on-line on-line and andoff-the off-therack, rack and low fashion and shopping she was admired for her “attainable” example. She dared to mix patterns and bold colors, and launched the young and and diverse diverse designers. designers. For her look, careers of young Mrs. Obama often relied on stylist Meredith Koop, who explained, “You have to celebrate fashion but also be aware of the message people are going to take away.” While tracing the story of America’s Americas interest in White House fashion history, Christina Ewald recounts her own experience creating a precise replica of the iconic Jacqueline Kennedy Kennedy wore on her onteleher red dress First Lady Jacqueline vised tourtour of the House. ElyseElyse Werling concludes televised ofWhite the White House. Werling conthe issue visitato thetoFirst Ladies HallHall at the cludes thewith issueawith visit the First Ladies at Smithsonian Institution. AA popular the Smithsonian Institution. popularexhibit exhibitfor for more than a century, the hall goes beyond the lines and colors and artistry to preserve the story of each woman’s contribution to White House history.
marcia mallet anderson editor, WHITE WHITEHOUSE HOUSE HISTORY QUARTERLY HISTORY QUARTERLY
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Seen here holding the Abraham Lincoln Bible for her husband as he is sworn in as the forty-fourth president of the United States, January 20, 2009, Michelle Obama chose to mix “attainable” with “aspirational” fashion for the ceremony, pairing olive green gloves from J. Crew with a lemongrass shift and matching overcoat custom-made for her by Cuban American designer Isabel Toledo. Admirers rushed on-line to buy the leather gloves quickly crashing the J. Crew website. Isabel Toledo soon became a household name.
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