White House History Quarterly 61 - As Time Goes By - Shanks

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O P P O S I T E : G E T T Y I M A G E S / A B O V E : G E O R G E W. B U S H P R E S I D E N T I A L L I B R A R Y A N D M U S E U M B Y T I N A H A G E R

THE SERVICE OF Wine at the White House Memories of an Evolution in Hospitality from the First White House Food and Beverage Usher daniel s h anks

in 2020, the white house historical association p u b l i s h e d the first comprehensive history of the role of wine in presidential hospitality. Wine and the White House: A History by Frederick J. Ryan, Jr., explores every president’s experience of wine and includes memorable presidential toasts, menus from historic White House gatherings, a catalog of vintages served, and spectacular new photography of the White House glassware collection. The following article expands on one special aspect of this history with a first-person account by Daniel Shanks, the first White House food and beverage usher.

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at the White House. I also hope you will come to sense the deep dedication and consistent pursuit of perfection that are demanded of those who serve in this great American icon.

MY ROAD TO THE WHITE HOUSE My “Road to the White House” began when I was a fledgling college student in Richmond, Virginia, in 1970. It was a time of social change, and I was inspired to hitchhike across the country, as many did back then. My travels took me to Napa Valley when it was still mostly farmland with a few family-owned wineries, a time before it became a one-name symbol of American wine production. I was eager to discover the wonders of the wine business, especially the new ideas that were being forged into bottles. It was here I that stumbled onto the mysteries of viticulture. I decided to stay.

To support myself while continuing college, I began to work in restaurants in Napa Valley, and I soon came to appreciate the passion of the vintners, the beauty of the vineyards, and the cycle of life that lent a singular identity to each vintage. It was a time of renaissance in viticulture and a reawakening of

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Wine will soon be poured in the glasses that line the tables ahead of a State Dinner in Honor of South Korean President Lee Myung-bak, 2011. Daniel Shanks, the first food and beverage usher at the White House, made it a policy to ensure that each glass set for a White House event was spotless.

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i wa s f o r t u nat e t o h av e s e rv e d in the White House as assistant usher and then as usher of food and beverage from 1995 to 2018, a period of great change in the hospitality profile of the Executive Residence. As a society, we were finding our own alternatives to the European paradigm of fine dining and doing so in a manner that more fully expressed who we are as a people. On a parallel journey, wine was being taken off the pedestal and enjoyed as the beverage of choice at most tables.

The Clinton administration looked to create its own style of entertaining, showcasing these evolutions, and set the theme by hiring the first American to be the executive chef at the White House, Walter Scheib. To complete the choreography, the president and First Lady Hillary Rodham Clinton also began a search for a front-of-the-house person who could direct the service, select the wines, and provide a consistent vision to their guests. I was complimented when the Usher’s Office called to ask me to consider taking the position. With time I was honored to recognize that I was the first dining professional chosen to fill this position.

In the following passages, I hope to give you glimpses of the how and why of daily entertaining

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ALAMY

Daniel Shanks’s road to the White House began in the 1970s in the Napa Valley of California, where he spent twenty years living and working in vineyards in Rutherford.

interest in wine consumption, though wine was still a beverage, not burnished, or burdened, with reviewers’ “points.” My earliest forays into wine were family meals with Lancers and Mateus, each in distinctive bottles and comfortable to consume. They certainly did nothing to prepare me for the joy to come.

For twenty years I lived on a vineyard in Rutherford, and I absorbed the sounds, smells, and taste of grapes. My early “training” came from living among great vineyards and the opportunity to prune and harvest grapes with friends. It was before the time of wine knowledge certification and diplomas. I am very respectful of the dedication of wine lovers who achieve that level of knowledge, but I cherish my unique apprenticeship.

In 1977 I was part of the team opening public facilities for Domaine Chandon in Yountville—a winery, tasting room, and restaurant. I was to be the maître d’ at Chandon, the winery’s fine dining restaurant. Chandon was the first acclaimed restaurant operated by a winery to showcase its products in the beautiful setting of the winery itself. We took to the mandate with great enthusiasm. I rose to the position of restaurant manager and had the pleasure of overseeing the extensive wine program featuring only American wines. This focus was to be of great value to me in the future.

Our staff training centered on off-day trips to neighboring wineries and wine areas where both kitchen and service staff would spend time together, sharing food and wine. What immediately became apparent were the distinct differences in the ways the kitchen and dining room staff responded to tasting the same wines. I learned the interplay of tastes and ingredients, balance and contrasts, and how a server’s wine suggestion can enhance the ordered dishes. I grew to appreciate the skill in pairing that makes a moment more than just a meal, and I carried this appreciation with me to the White House.

One last experience that gave me a tactile component to my wine knowledge was the opportunity to make my own small batches of wine from friends’ vineyards in Napa Valley. I was able to pick, crush, ferment, and press some of the finest grapes over a range of varietals and techniques. To witness the transformation of wonderful-as-is, just-picked grape juice as it morphs from nonalcohol to alcohol, and then is choreographed into a finished wine, is to truly understand its beauty. This mystical transformation allows one to perceive the anticipated white house history quarterly

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evolution of the bottled wines brought to cellar and finally to the table. Even this journey through place and time did not entirely prepare me for the next phase of my life and career.

In late fall of 1994 I received a call from the Usher’s Office of the White House, inquiring whether I would like to be considered for the position of food and beverage usher. It took me a moment to digest this. A stutter probably followed, but then I gratefully accepted. My first thoughts shortly afterward were, “Why me?” and “What can I contribute?” I came to realize later that no one at the Executive Residence ever expected to work there; we were all granted the opportunity by time and circumstance.

Whether I would be offered a job or not, taking the interview meant I could at least surprise my family in the D.C. area with a visit and I would have a unique opportunity to see the White House. At worst, I could return to my life in Napa Valley. Not much downside to this decision!

I arrived at the White House for my interview in December, during the Christmas holiday season, and walked into a wonderland of sights, smells, and excitement. I wanted to see it as just another restaurant, but that did not seem to work. Chief Usher Gary Walters and I shared a long discussion as he opened my eyes to life at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, and then I had another discussion with Ann Stock, the social secretary to First Lady Hillary Clinton. Both impressed upon me the administration’s earnest desire to make the hospitality level in the White House commensurate with the exciting developments in American cuisine, without losing long-standing traditions. The first American executive chef had recently been hired—Walter Scheib— and Mrs. Clinton looked to complement his food with a service style that blended perception and execution with personality and enthusiasm. I understood that quest, as it was the paradigm of our restaurant at Chandon. An added hope expressed to me was that the wine program be internally directed, responsive to the pace of life in the new Clinton administration, a reflection of our changing society.

Some time passed after the interview, and since I had not yet learned that the White House moves at a very deliberate, sometimes slow, pace, I reconciled myself that it was a missed opportunity when, surprisingly, I was invited to return for further

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discussions. It was a more relaxed time now that Christmas entertaining was over, and I was able to savor the majesty and timelessness of the Executive Residence. I was invited to visit with Mrs. Clinton, answer her questions, and listen to her vision of hospitality at the White House. It was a life-changing moment: I came to realize I could rise to the occasion, and I accepted the challenge. By February I was crossing the country once again to my new life.

How could I have known what was to come?

My first stop as I began my cross-country journey to my new position was to Sacramento to visit with David Berkley, the wine merchant and owner of a wine and specialty food market who had been called on by the Reagan administration for advice on wine. His continued association with the White House had transformed its wine selection and purchasing. My visit was to establish a rapport that would be beneficial to my future success. The list of wines David Berkley had directed to the White

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When Daniel Shanks was hired to bring his expertise in wine service to the White House, the first American executive chef, Walter Scheib, had also recently joined the staff.

Scheib is seen above preparing appetizers to be served at a State Dinner.

A L L I M A G E S T H I S S P R E A D : W I L L I A M J. C L I N T O N P R E S I D E N T I A L L I B R A R Y

A CALL FROM THE WHITE HOUSE

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Following an unexpected telephone call from the White House, Daniel Shanks interviewed for the newly created position of food and beverage usher with Social Secretary Ann Stock, seen here with President and Mrs. Clinton. below

Mrs. Clinton and her guests enjoy wine and conversation during a State Dinner for South Korea, June 9, 1998.

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NEW WAYS IN WINE SERVICE On February 15, 1995, I walked into my new workplace, prepared to take it all in and to share my knowledge and experience, as discussed during interviews. One of my earliest impressions was how devoted the Residence staff was to the first family and to the traditions that surround all aspects of White House life. Most of the staff had a long tenure.

Many had served twenty to thirty years and thus a series of first families. They had accomplished the impossible over and again, as White House events are extremely fluid and subject to last-minute adjustments. Their institutional knowledge was invaluable as administrations changed but Residence life went on. As we worked together, they adapted to the new practices of fine dining that I was privileged to introduce.

A startling surprise for me was the size of the wine storage area. I had driven east thinking of Thomas Jefferson and his fabled White House wine cellar and what I would find when I arrived. What I found was a long narrow room, almost a closet, that held both white and red wines at the same temperature. This situation was mostly a result of limited space in the White House, where every precious nook and cranny are utilized. The wines in the closet were limited to those recently purchased for a meal or left over from a recent event. The idea of holding wine until it matures in the bottle was not at the time a practice in the Residence, though it was the practice in many fine dining establishments. Instead, wine was purchased specifically for an upcoming event. Given the undifferentiated storage space for all wines, I found white wine and sparkling wine would on occasion be served too warm and red wine too cool. With time, I helped to develop practices to be sure all wines showed at their optimum temperature.

Another focus of my first days was the glassware.

Although wineglasses coming out of the dishwasher are clean, they still need additional scrutiny for residue. The way a glass is set on the table also deserves attention, for fingerprints can be left if the bowl is handled instead of the stem. I followed my prior practice of checking each table prior to an event to ensure that the number of glasses in place was correct and that each was pristinely clean.

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The volume of wine poured in a glass was another of my first concerns. At first I observed well-intending servers pouring a large amount of wine into a glass, as they wanted the guest not to run out. But smaller amounts in a glass allow white wines to stay cool longer, as they are topped up more frequently, and red wines to breathe better. With smaller amounts, the guest might swirl the wine to develop the wonderful aromas. Smaller amounts also give a more balanced feel to the glass, creating a more elegant presentation.

The tendency to fully fill the wineglasses stemmed (no pun intended!) partly from the relatively small stature of the Kennedy administration glassware. This set was avant-garde for its day, as it was the first “uncut” State glassware (without engraved lines on the bowl) and so offered a fuller appreciation of the many beautiful colors of wine.

The Kennedy-era focus was on artistic design and table presentation. But by current standards this glassware does not serve wines well. The glasses are very small in capacity and inhibit the sensory appreciation of wine that is so coveted with the

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Daniel Shanks, seen below in the White House wine storage room, recalls being startled when he learned that the White House did not have a large cellar in which to age and store wine.

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

House over the years was a highway I would travel down often. I had met him before, and I respected the service he so willingly lent the White House.

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W I L L I A M J. C L I N T O N P R E S I D E N T I A L L I B R A R Y

Milton Rowe, a part-time butler, polishes a wine glass ahead of a luncheon for the governors’ spouses in the Yellow Oval Room, 1996.

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COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

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When not not at at his his When desk desk in in the the Usher’s Usher’s Office, Daniel Daniel Office, Shanks Shanks could could often often be be found found ensuring ensuring every every place place was was perfectly set at at perfectly set White House House tables tables White awaiting awaiting luncheon luncheon or dinner dinner guests. guests. or right

SHUTTERSTOCK

SHUTTERSTOCK

A table A table set set for for an an Official Dinner in in Official Dinner honor of of British British honor Prime Prime Minister Minister John in John Howard Howard in 2006 includes includes 2006 comfortable-tocomfortable-tohold 10 10 ounce ounce hold wineglasses wineglasses recommended by by recommended Daniel Daniel Shanks Shanks for for their elegance elegance and and their versatility. versatility.

more evolved wines of today. By the time of my retirement we had acquired a nonpresidential, but beautiful, collection of glassware that showcased wines and replicated the fine dining experience.

This glassware enhanced the entire table setting, although it is not considered a State set and so is not part of the White House Collection.

Another notable change was to discontinue using the coupe glass (a short-stemmed glass with a shallow, open bowl) for serving sparkling wine or champagne and to use the flute shape instead.

The long, slender bodies of flutes allow the effervescence to be retained longer and make spillage less likely. Bar service went from using a small, clunky “commercial” glass to a more representative “all-purpose” 10-ounce glass that was comfortable to hold. The style was elegant and showed the beverage in a better light.

In addition to changing glassware settings, I sought to introduce ways of presenting the wine for the guests’ benefit. Following in Berkley’s footsteps, I sought to consider small, family-owned wineries when purchasing wine to highlight the range of wine produced in our country. America’s breadth of vineyards and range of varietals are unparalleled anywhere in the world. As many of the winery names printed on menus were thus unfamiliar

and frequently had little national distribution, we wanted guests who were curious to be aware of them. Knowing that wineries give a lot of thought to the labels they develop, and that the label is usually in keeping with the style and taste profile of the wine, I had the wine stewards pour wine with the front label prominently displayed, facing the guest. Guests can then visually connect with the wines, and the practice became another aspect of our polished service. And to make sure that the labels were presentable, we placed wines needing to be chilled in sealed bags so the labels would not become saturated and disfigured by the ice and water. We also cut the top foil with precision so the artistic packaging designed by the winery was intact when presented to guests.

Another the changes I sought was tored ofAnother ofofthe changes I sought was to offer fer red wine on White bars during WhiteRed House wine on bars during House events. wine events.

Red wine previously been avoidhad previously been had avoided because the curators ed because of concerns about spills were understandably concerned aboutthat spillscould that damage historic furnishings. could damage historic furnishings.Although Although I fully sympathized with that rationale, I asked for a change in policy that would allow the first family’s guests another oft-requested option to heighten their White House experience. Once the red wine was made available, the many guests who asked for it at receptions were pleased and I was relieved, for

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we quickly found that damage was minimal due both to the demeanor of the guests and to the vigilance of the staff.

Decanting is a great tool and great theater, and it came into play at the White House for these reasons. Limits on budget and space mean that only recently released wines can be purchased; wines are not stored to age. But younger wines are often very introverted and tightly wound, and do not give access to their flavors very easily. So we initiated decanting the red wine to better show its attributes.

Opening the bottle in advance of service and pouring it into another container, then back into the bottle, injects oxygen into the wine that hastens in small part the effect of aging—young wines putting on more elegant airs! Often I called the winemaker for his or her opinion on the optimal decanting time. Tasting the wine prior to decanting and then again at the time we poured showed a noticeable difference, and one that our guests could appreciate.

We made one additional change with the pouring of the wine for the main course, which was usually a red. Instead of pouring it as or after the main course was served, we began pouring it as guests finished their first course, so the service was completed before the main course came out. This practice simplified table service by butlers and stewards, as the space between tables can be tight, and also reduced distraction for guests. More important, it gave the wine the benefit of a little breathing in the glass and the guests a chance to enjoy the red wine on its own merits during the course transition.

To minimize waste and leftover open bottles, we began to log the number of bottles “uncorked” preservice at events. For first family service in the Residence, we asked the butler who opened a wine in the private quarters to list the date in small script on the back label and to always replace the cork, so other butlers, coming on duty, would know how long a bottle had been opened and exposed to air.

This practice gave more certainty that the wine was at its best.

All of these seemingly small steps built better staff awareness of wine culture and the role of wine in dining satisfaction. The aim, always, was to improve beverage service and achieve a more polished fine dining experience for the first family and their guests.

The aspect of my tenure that I enjoyed most was the selection of a wine for a particular event, as you can imagine! Let’s cover that next.

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SELECTING THE WINES One of the most satisfying aspects of my position was selecting beverages for service in the Executive Residence. This included the wines, sparkling wines, beers, and hard alcohol for the bars. It is a role not taken lightly in the White House, as everything we do is done under the public eye. This abundance of caution was evident in the nine months it took for the chief usher to be confident in setting me free to make beverage choices!

All beverages selected for the White House are produced in the United States with the exception of some back-bar alcohols. The wines served are generally full-flavored and easy on the palate with wide appeal. Over the years I noticed that for guests Chardonnay is the preferred white and Pinot Noir the preferred red. Both are comfortable in flavor and weight, and the aroma of the Pinot Noir adds to the enjoyment. Certain menus called for a more robust wine. During President George W. Bush’s administration we were asked to serve more beef dishes. Those moments cried for the power of Cabernet Sauvignon.

On occasion, usually when there were vintage changes or a wine was out of inventory, we assembled a few of the Residence staff to taste and comment on new releases for inclusion in our stock served at receptions. These “tasters” had an interest in our beverage program and came from all departments, a cross section of staff that we hoped would parallel the range of guests we serve. These in-house tastings also gave the staff some “buy-in” on the beverages they would be serving.

I found it was a challenge to stay current with the rapidly expanding world of American wines, even after having worked in its birthplace—Napa Valley.

Unlike most fine restaurants, the White House is not a place where wine salespeople drop in spontaneously to taste their new vintages with you. There is also no line item in the White House budget for wine tasting. Compounding the challenge was that new viticulture areas and family-owned wineries, two aspects of wine selection on which I intended to focus, were underrepresented in the marketplace.

For my own edification and at my own expense, I chose to spend most of my vacations visiting wine regions and wineries, across the country as well as overseas, that were unknown to me. I must admit there are harder occupations! The people I met on these visits were passionate about their craft, and the lands where grapes were gown were beautiful.

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COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

Working in Working in the the Usher’s Office Office often often Usher’s required multimultirequired tasking, but tasking, but over over the years years Daniel Daniel the Shanks brought brought Shanks wine service service to wine to a a new level, new level, built built relationships with relationships with vintners across across vintners the country, country, and the and succeeded in in succeeded selecting diverse selecting diverse American wines American wines that White White House House that guests would guests would enjoy. enjoy.

I had learned years before that walking the vineIyards, had learned years before that walking vineand meeting and listening to thethe people yards, and meeting and listening to the people creating the wine, gave me an indelible connection creating me an indelible between the thewine, story gave of the vineyard and connection the taste of between the story of the vineyard and the taste the wine. The extensive notes I took on every wineofI the wine.became The extensive notes I took on everyinwine tasted my future references theI tasted became my future references in the Executive Residence. These notes could later beExecutive Residence. notes could laterlady become talking points forThese the president and first come talking points for the president and first lady to share with their guests at the event. to share theircame guests thesocial event.schedule, our Whenwith an event onatthe When an event came on the social schedule, our chefs would begin creating a menu reflecting the chefs would begin creating a menu reflecting the honored guest’s profile, using products and spices honored guest’s profile, using products and spices featured in his or her culture but prepared in the featured served in his or prepared in the manner in her our culture country.but I would search for manner served in our country.

I would search for any wine associations with the invited group and any wine associations with the invited group and call on my tasting experience and notes to choose call onto myconsider. tasting experience and call notes to choose wines I would often a winery to wines to consider.

I would wine oftenIcall winerywas to check on how a particular hadatasted check on how a particular wine I had tasted was progressing. Wine is a living entity with peaks progressing.

Winethe is aaging living entity Iwith peaks and valleys during process. wanted to and valleys during the aging process.

I wanted to be sure the winemakers felt it was an appropriate be sure the winemakers felt it was an appropriate

match proposed Winemakers match toto thethe proposed menu.menu.

Winemakers deserve deserve the respect of showcasing onlyfinest their wines, finest the respect of showcasing only their wines, their moment. finest moment.

On occasion, this reat theiratfinest On occasion, this respectspectful exchange resulted the winery offering ful exchange resulted in thein winery offering a winea wine its archives at current the current release price from from its archives at the release price bebecause it seemed a better pairing.

I would then cause it seemed a better pairing.

I would then rerequest a samplesosoI Icould couldtaste tastethe thewine wine with with food quest a sample similar to the anticipated menu.

Could a winery wineissue. for useWhen at the White Shipping was donate a complex possiHouse? was adirectly question I waslarge frequently asked, ble, we This ordered from distributors but we resisted these generous offers asbecause excitement with distribution in Washington.

But we among the vintners would havewineries, resulted many in a glut mostly ordered from smaller of of donated wine that we simply could not District, use. An them without formal distribution in the equal was that the White we hadconsideration to ask them to ship directly to us. House But secould not appear to specific winery curity precluded thefavor wineany being delivered toover the others.House, We prided ourselves as the representing all White and, compounding situation, our American producers. changing vendors normal intake facility,Regularly the Riverdale National Park also helps with the was public perceptionathat do Service warehouse, in Maryland, statewe with not favor specific one. Inevitably, a winemaker’s very strictany laws regarding wine shipments: it is a pride infor having his or product served a White felony wineries toher ship directly into at Maryland.

House event might heralded in social media Very archaic!

So webehad an arrangement within a such abeverage way as toshop hintin at the an official endorsement, but local District, one with which this practice; if it happened we cautioned shared a against long history of mutual interests. twice, the were winery was no and longer considered forour fuPackages accepted held there until ture service.

Chief Usher instituted storeroom crew could pickGary themWalters up. a policy the winery the Could whereby a winery donate wine could for usemention at the White service in in-house publications, and I continued House?

This was a question I was frequently asked, the standing practice of sendingoffers a copy the event but we resisted these generous asof excitement menu wine listed a cover letter amongwith the the vintners wouldand have resulted in thanka glut ingdonated the winery forthat the we privilege serving wine. of wine simplyofcould notthe use.

An These now proudly displayed in White tasting House rooms equal are consideration was that the throughout the country. could not appear to favor any specific winery over Over We the prided years, like David Berkley before me,allI others. ourselves as representing worked toproducers. build relationships vintners and American Regularly with changing vendors owners who consistently produced superior wines also helps with the public perception that we do thatfavor best suited White House cuisineaand elegance. not any specific one.

Inevitably, winemaker’s With I began toher sense whatserved wineries pride time in having his or product at ainevitaWhite bly brought greatest enjoyment, andin it House eventguests might the be heralded in social media was wine” lauded in but the suchfrequently a way as to not hintaat“trophy an official endorsement, wine press. In against some ways White House is a very we cautioned thisthe practice; if it happened different from fine dining in a restautwice, theenvironment winery was no longer considered for furant.

Guests come a White event with a ture service.

Chief to Usher GaryHouse Walters instituted diversity life experiences.

They do not necessarily a policy of whereby the winery could mention the arrive thoughtspublications, of food and and beverage in the servicewith in in-house I continued forefront, butpractice alwaysof with a great sense the standing sending a copy of of theheightevent ened Like any and perceptive steward, menuenthusiasm. with the wine listed a coverwine letter thankmy taskwinery was tofor find thatofare full inthe characing the thewines privilege serving wine. ter andare commensurate with the in atmosphere yet These now proudly displayed tasting rooms comfortable on country. the palate. Judging by first family throughout the comments conversations guests, I feel weI Over theand years, like David with Berkley before me, accomplished thatrelationships goal. worked to build with vintners and

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owners Manywho factors consistently contribute produced to choosing superiora wines wine for specific time of year, examthatabest suitedevent.

WhiteThe House cuisine andfor elegance. ple, needs be considered: heartier wines are With time Itobegan to sense what wineries inevitafavored in colder months, while enjoyment, more fruit-driven, bly brought guests the greatest and it lighter-bodied favored during the in warmwas frequentlywines not a are “trophy wine” lauded the er months. factorthe was the guest count: our wine press.Another In some ways White House is a very largest events could not be accommodated by the different environment from fine dining in a restausmaller production wines we like to source. alsoa rant.

Guests come to a White House eventWe with considered if the event would indoors or diversity of life experiences.

Theybedoheld not necessarily outdoors: events areand suited to wineinwith arrive withoutdoor thoughts of food beverage the richer mouth while inside events favor wines forefront, but feel, always with a great sense of heightwhose aromas show more The time of steward, day was ened enthusiasm.

Like anyfully. perceptive wine another

by White House tradimy task factor: was to luncheons, find wines that are full in charaction, usually feature a single suitable to pair ter and commensurate with wine the atmosphere yet with a variety dishes, whereas dinners comfortable onofthe palate.

Judging by firstrequire family multiple wines that each set the stage for aI feel course. comments and conversations with guests, we For a buffet service, newly released wines offer accomplished that goal. more vibrant fruitcontribute and matchtobetter than athe eleMany factors choosing wine gant which areThe best time suitedoftoyear, a plated for awines, specific event. for meal. examis always consideration in winewines selection. ple,Cost needs to be aconsidered: heartier are Many events are “reimbursable,” meaning favoredofinour colder months, while more fruit-driven, that an outsidewines entityare is responsible for the the warmevent lighter-bodied favored during and assumes all costs.

Thewas State for er months.

Another factor theDepartment, guest count: our example, pays could for State and other departlargest events notDinners, be accommodated by the ments for theirwines events. smallerpay production weOther like to“reimbursables” source. We also include entities such as the Kennedy Center, Ford’s considered if the event would be held indoors or Theatre, Special Olympics.

Thetosponsoring outdoors:and outdoor events are suited wine with entity has awhile budget cap.events We work with the richer usually mouth feel, inside favor wines chefs, storeroom, and The butlers whose aromas showflorists, more fully. timeto ofdevelop day was aanother strategy to stay within thebybudget ever factor: luncheons, Whitewithout House tradisacrificing balanced against tion, usuallyquality. feature Also a single wine suitable to costpair consciousness is the guests’ expectation only with a variety of dishes, whereas dinnersthat require the finestwines American products service be multiple that each set theand stage for a will course. offered.

Most service, of the guests arereleased enjoying wines what might For a buffet newly offer be their only opportunity to visit the White House, more vibrant fruit and match better than the eleand, to them, the wine has to be “State Dinnermeal. qualgant wines, which are best suited to a plated ity.”Cost Costisdoes nota figure into their so it always consideration in thoughts, wine selection. becomes our events task toare unite the possible meaning with the Many of our “reimbursable,” improbable. that an outside entity is responsible for the event particular dinners research previous andFor assumes all costs.

The we State Department, for occasionspays withfor theState sameDinners, guests toand avoid repeating example, other departwines. preferences are also taken into acments Religious pay for their events. Other “reimbursables” count. served kosher-certified wine and beer at includeWe entities such as the Kennedy Center, Ford’s events forand Jewish or Israeli guests, and refrained Theatre, Special Olympics.

The sponsoring from serving at events which guest entity usuallyalcohol has a budget cap.for We workthe with the of honor was fromflorists, a nation with religious prohichefs, storeroom, and butlers to develop against alcohol.

Department is abitions strategy to stay withinThe the State budget without ever always a great resource for guidance such issues. sacrificing quality.

Also balanced on against costOne of the joys in choosing the consciousness is theI experienced guests’ expectation that only wine and beer was the chance to complement the finest American products and service willthe be

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“theater offered.of Most the moment.” of the guests In entertaining are enjoying guests what might from abeforeign country or holding events anHouse, ethnitheir only opportunity to visit the with White cally centered function, ourtoambition to create and, to them, the wine has be “Statewas Dinner qualaity.”

White experience thattheir could bring people CostHouse does not figure into thoughts, so it together and shared interests. do this becomes our promote task to unite the possibleWe with the through matching the menu and beverages, to acimprobable. centuate the moment.

If thewe event honors previous a foreign For particular dinners research country, lookthe to same highlight tiestobetween us. That occasionswe with guests avoid repeating means Religious considering a winemaker or winery owner wines. preferences are also taken into acwhose background is related to thewine guest’s count. We served kosher-certified andcountry beer at or a grape to the guest’s country that events forvarietal Jewish native or Israeli guests, and refrained afrom winemaker our country highlights.

State serving in alcohol at events for whichFor thea guest Dinner Jacques Chirac of France of honorwith wasPresident from a nation with religious prohiin 1996against we selected a Beringer Viognier Reserve bitions alcohol.

The State Department is 1994 and Zacaresource Mesa Syrah 1993, both French vaalways a great for guidance on such issues. rietals newfound popularity in Onewith of the joys I experienced in America. choosingIn thea similar manner, forthe a State Dinner for President wine and beer was chance to complement the Filipe Calderón of Mexico in 2010, we featured “theater of the moment.”

In entertaining guests from 2007 Valdez Chardonnay and Herrera a foreign country or holding events withCabernet an ethniSauvignon 2006, winemakers who had emigrated cally centered function, our ambition was to create Mexico, started with entry-level winerafrom White House experience that could jobs bringinpeople ies, and evolved to create their interests. own award-winning together and promote shared We do this wines. through matching the menu and beverages, to acDuring my years asIfathe White our centuate the moment. eventHouse honorsusher, a foreign country we witnessed an explosion of new wineries country, look to highlight ties between us. That and viticultural areas.

There are now licensed winmeans considering a winemaker or winery owner eries inbackground all fifty states and even oneguest’s in the country District whose is related to the of aColumbia.

By my last to count, duringcountry my tenure or grape varietal native the guest’s that we featured wine from eighteen states. For I often felt a winemaker in our country highlights. a State it was my mission to showcase manyofofFrance these Dinner with President Jacques as Chirac new experiences as opportunity and wineReserve quality in 1996 we selected a Beringer Viognier allowed.

1994 and Zaca Mesa Syrah 1993, both French varietals with newfound popularity in America. In a THE similarCHOREOGRAPHY manner, for a State Dinner for President OF WINE SERVICE Filipe Calderón of Mexico in 2010, we featured 2007 Formal Valdez dining Chardonnay in the White andHouse Herrera is Cabernet a choreographed ballet of chefs and servers in uniSauvignon 2006, winemakers who working had emigrated son, performing a time-restricted event fluid from Mexico, started with entry-level jobsin inawinerenvironment.

The makes ies, and evolved to president’s create theirtight own schedule award-winning any change of plan a challenge that can jeopardize wines. serving a superior dining experience, our ultimate During my years as a White House usher, our objective.

The greatness of great of wine country witnessed an explosion newpurchased wineries for an event canareas. easilyThere be lostare if the falters. and viticultural nowservice licensed winFortunately, this willand noteven happen at the theDistrict White eries in all fifty states one in House.

Working in the Residence and of Columbia.

By my lastExecutive count, during my tenure constantly the president’s guests we featuredinteracting wine from with eighteen states. I often felt keep the levelas ofmany performance it wasus mycognizant mission toofshowcase of these expected. new experiences as opportunity and wine quality Great service starts with never being short of allowed. product, whether at a bar during a reception or

white house history quarterly

G E O R G E W. B U S H P R E S I D E N T I A L L I B R A R Y

G E O R G E W. B U S H P R E S I D E N T I A L L I B R A R Y

Butler James Butler James Ramsey carries carries Ramsey wine to to guests guests as wine as part of of a a precisely precisely part orchestrated service service orchestrated created to provide provide created to a a superior superior dining dining experience experience at at the the White House.

House.

White

pouring at a State Dinner. We keep a constant stock THE CHOREOGRAPHY of beer, white, red, and sparkling wine in order to OF WINE SERVICE

be prepared forinlast than Formal dining theminute White events, House longer is a choreoexpected eventof hours, guest counts. graphed ballet chefsand andincreased servers working in uniFor that are “reimbursable,”event we want sufson,events performing a time-restricted in a afluid ficient supply The but try to avoidtight having to charge for environment. president’s schedule makes unneeded beveragesthat arecan leftjeopardize over, they any changeproduct. of plan aIfchallenge are added to the White House inventory use at serving a superior dining experience, ourfor ultimate a future occasion. objective. The greatness of great wine purchased smallcan events, White House forFor an event easilywe becheck lost if the the service falters. cellar to see ifthis we have invenFortunately, will appropriate not happenwines at theinWhite tory. If not, and that is usually theResidence case for larger House.

Working in the Executive and services, I chose memorable wines I enjoyed at constantly interacting with the president’s guests tastings travel that embellish the flavor keep us or cognizant of might the level of performance of the dinner. Calls are made to the wineries under expected.

consideration Great service about starts thewith state never of the being wineshort at this of moment—as winesatare not during static but continue or to product, whether a bar a reception evolve. is another factor. pouringAvailability at a State Dinner.

We keep a constant stock Staffing for red, wineand service involves developing of beer, white, sparkling wine in order toa cadre of butlers replicateevents, servicelonger techniques be prepared for who last minute than at every meal. staffed a lead wine expected eventWe hours, andwith increased gueststeward counts. whoevents controlled wrapped white andasparFor that inventory, are “reimbursable,” we want sufkling bags labels to during chillficientwines supplyinbut trytotoprotect avoid having charge for ing, monitored wine If temperatures, determined unneeded product. beverages are left over, the we number of costs bottles toroll open assigned assume the and thepre-event, beverages into Whitea stewardinventory, to each station, and service during House hoping to oversaw find a future occasion the meal.

Stations traditionally have three tables of to use them. ten,For with moreevents, serverswe added if an wine small check theadditional White House courses cellar toare seescheduled. if we have appropriate wines in invenByIf tradition, serve onethe wine at afor luncheon tory. not, andwe that is only usually case larger

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spend Thein most the receiving general rule lineon can consumption vary. We chilled for 130 the wine than theDining preferred drinking temperaguestscooler (typical State Room numbers) is four ture to(48 balance theof wait Ideally the white cases bottles) thetime. white and three caseswine (36 should be at the time ofbottles) consumption. bottles) of at the50–52°F red. Three cases (36 of the Sparkling wines should just athe bitwine cooler. sparkling wine is the rule,be unless will Red conwine at during 60–62°F. was some Two varitinuewas to beserved offered theThere entertainment. ability thesethese guidelines, as wines factorswith support numbers.

First,were the served White slightlyiswarmer in cold months andvenue, cooler during House an extremely fast-paced as you the warmer months. might expect, and second, per guest consumption For the four is relatively low.administrations I served, a timeline forThe a State Dinner broke down as follows: white serving temperature for wine is crucial, so wine was pre-poured at tableisfor guests before theyI the timing of pre-pouring carefully planned. entered from the receiving line, andwine it wasahead poured believe the practice of pre-pouring of again after arrival toasts by both thefrom president and honthe guests’ is derived a long-held deored head of state.the Immediately of sire to minimize time staff isonincompletion the room, altoasts, the course was served, red wine poured, lowing for first privacy in conversation.

The white wine the main course wine poured, chosen must haveserved, a flavor sparkling profile accommodating the dessert course followed, coffee service was temperature changes, as theand time guests spend in offered. the receiving line can vary. We chill the wine cooler Given our tightdrinking timeline,temperature and not an to overabunthan the preferred balance dance oftime. staff,Ideally we didthe a “pick service. the wait whiteand winedrop” should be at This is different from of what many people expect— 50–52°F at the time consumption.

Sparkling butlersshould coming in asa abitgroup pickwine up ais course, wines be just cooler.toRed served shortly to return to set the new course at onethese time. at 60–62°F. There is some variability with In our style,asbutlers came into the room with the guidelines, wines are served slightly warmer in

white house history quarterly

As guests As guests enjoyed enjoyed their dessert, dessert, the the their Marine Strolling Marine Strolling Strings, part Strings, part of of the President’s President’s the Own States Own United United States Marine Band, Marine Band, circulated around around circulated the East East Room and the Room and performed three three performed songs selected selected by by songs First Lady Lady Michelle Michelle First Obama during during a Obama a State Dinner Dinner for for State Mexico, 2010.

Mexico, 2010.

ALAMY ALAMY

given services, the Imid-day chose memorable timing andwines lighterI cuisine. enjoyed At at dinner red, and sparkling tastingswe or offer travelwhite, that might embellish the wines, flavor usually with each a wineries specific course. of the dinner.

Callsaccompanying are made to the under White-tie Stateabout Dinners, are wine four courses consideration the however, state of the at this and require the addition of static a fourth which moment—as wines are not butwine, continue to can be Availability either whiteisor red, tofactor. accompany the inevolve. another between course.

Staffing for wine service involves developing a Theofmost general on consumption for 130 cadre butlers whorule replicate service techniques guests (typical State Dining Room numbers) is four at every meal. We staffed with a lead wine steward casescontrolled (48 bottles) of the white and three (36 who inventory, wrapped whitecases and sparbottles) of the cases labels (36 bottles) the kling wines in red. bagsThree to protect duringofchillsparkling wine wine is thetemperatures, rule, unless the wine will coning, monitored determined the tinue to be entertainment.

Twoa number of offered bottles during to openthe pre-event, assigned factors these numbers.

First, the during White stewardsupport to each station, and oversaw service House is Stations an extremely fast-paced as you the meal. traditionally have venue, three tables of might expect, second, perifguest consumption ten, with moreand servers added an additional wine is relatively low. courses are scheduled.

Thetradition, serving temperature forone winewine is crucial, so By we serve only at a lunthe timing was and carefully cheon givenof thepre-pouring mid-day timing lighterplanned. cuisine.

I believe practice of pre-pouring wine ahead At dinnerthe we offer white, red, and sparkling wines, of the guests’ arrival is derived from a long-held usually with each accompanying a specific course. desire to minimize the time staffare is in thecourses room, White-tie State Dinners, however, four allowing forthe privacy in conversation.

The which white and require addition of a fourth wine, wine chosen a flavor profile accommocan be eithermust whitehave or red, to accompany the indating changes, as the time guests betweentemperature course.

cold new months dishes, and picked cooler upduring the old thecourse warmerwith months. the right andadministrations dropped the new coursea with the Forhand the four I served, timeline left system reduced the number for ahand.

StateThis Dinner breaks downbyashalf follows: white of times a guest wasatdisturbed by a butler, it wine is pre-poured table for guests beforebut they also relied good core of “second who enter from on theareceiving line, and it is butlers,” poured again brought thebyremainder of platesand needed to serve after toasts both the president honored head thestate. tableImmediately and also tookon the used dishes to the of completion ofback toasts, kitchen for is washing. choreographed ballet, of first course served, A red wine poured, the main sorts! The headsparkling table was, of course, more heavily course served, wine poured, the dessert staffed follows, and wasand served more rapidly. course coffee service offered.

During dessert, the Marine Strings, Given our tight timeline, and Strolling not an overabunresplendent in their reda uniforms, to play dance of staff, we do “pick andentered drop” service. threeissongs chosen by the firstmany lady. The guests then This different from what people expect— departed the room with butlers coming in astoaconclude group to the pickevening up a course, entertainment.

Itto was 55 course minutes they shortly to return setexactly the new atsince one time. entered!

In our style, butlers come into the room with the new dishes, pick up the old course with the right OUT hand and FRONT drop the AND new course with the left hand.

ON THE LINES This systemFRONT reduces by half the number of times We a guest haveislooked disturbed into by “back a butler, of the but house” it also practices relies thata govern ourofresponsibilities at who the Executive on good core “second butlers,” bring the Residence: purchasing, storing, andthe serving.

Now remainder of plates needed to serve table while Ialso would likethe to take “outback front,” daily lifefor at taking usedyou dishes tointo the kitchen the WhiteA House and what it ballet, feels like be onThe the washing. choreographed ofto sorts! front table lines as develop real time. head is, events of course, morein heavily staffed and is I ammore often asked about the influence first served rapidly. families exert on decision making for Strings, events. To During dessert, the Marine Strolling rebegin, everything is focusedenter on fulfilling their splendent in theirwe reddo uniforms, to play three wishes and executing events in the thatthen reflects songs chosen by the first lady.

Thestyle guests detheir tastes andtoambitions.

It isevening a worldwith where the part the room conclude the enterword “can’t” does notexactly exist unless the request just tainment.

It has been 55 minutes since they cannot be accomplished. Even when we are at that entered! point, we somehow manage to find a path to success. Every first family OUT FRONT AND(and I served four) brings a direction White House life that is different from ON THEtoFRONT LINES thathave of the previous We recognize We looked intoadministration. “back of the house” practices differences, and hard that there governwill ourberesponsibilities at we thework Executive to pick up conversations and cues fromNow the Residence: purchasing, storing, andright serving. administration Ibeginning. would likeThese to takechanges you “outfrom front,” into daily life to at administration the White Housealso andoften what reflect it feels changes like to bein onsocithe ety and culture, and they are enjoyable to integrate. front lines as events develop in real time.

That said,often manyasked honored guests who are invited to I am about the influence first the Whiteexert House several administrations comfamilies onover decision making for events.

To ment its timelessness. too,on is afulfilling compliment begin,on everything we do isThis, focused their and canand be attributed in partin tothe thestyle staffthat whose long wishes executing events reflects tenures lendand consistency and success. their tastes ambitions.

It ensure is a world where the During mydoes timenot at the Residence, no word “can’t” existExecutive unless the request just first family chose to dictate ourwhen beverage decisions. cannot be accomplished.

Even we are at that Ipoint, take that to be a tacit approval of our selections we somehow manage to find a path to sucand our desire please.

First families have given cess.

Every firstto family (and I served four) brings a helpful feedback quietlife conversations withfrom the direction to WhiteinHouse that is different

chief usher and the butlers who serveWe them directly that of the previous administration. recognize in thethere Residence. am gratified when they favorthat will be Idifferences, and we work hard ably mention the wines served at a just-completed to pick up conversations and cues right from the event: that is all the praise we need. beginning.

These changes from administration to It was the case myreflect four administrations administration alsoover often changes in socithatand theculture, first lady is the sourcetoof family ety and they arebest enjoyable integrate. wishes when it comes to beverage service.

Many to of That said, many honored guests who are invited the White first ladies I served enjoyed wine with meals, ofHouse over several administrations comten preferring wines withThis, character depth that ment on its timelessness. too, isand a compliment reflect they inhabit. thewhose presidents and canthe beworld attributed in part toTwo theof staff long Itenures served did consume alcohol, andsuccess. the other two lendnot consistency and ensure very sparingly.

During my time at the Executive Residence, no Tofamily placechose the discussions of wine service at the first to dictate our beverage decisions.

White House in real context, I would to walk I take that to be a tacit approval of ourlike selections you events that occurred duringhave my watch. and through our desire to please.

First families given These how the White House helpfuldemonstrate feedback in quiet conversations withstaff the adapts to unexpected and unusual situations.

The chief usher and the butlers who serve them directly most andIinam many ways when the largest in theinvolved Residence. gratified they event favorIably worked was the wines Millennium Year’s Eve celemention servedNew at a just-completed brationthat during administration, the inevent: is allthe theClinton praise we need. famous Y2K professional, night. Mrs. Clinton start the As a wine one ofwanted my besttomoments new century with a grand With the help of outoccurred when First Ladyfete.

Michelle Obama asked sideand designers, wetoturned thetwo Jacqueline Kennedy me the chefs prepare wine-tastings for Garden intoThese a tented, and draped her friends. werecarpeted, private events held in cabthe aret-like reception where incoming Residence at the firstarea, family’s expense.

To beguests in the could mingle prior to the receiving line. Inside moment with the guests asking questions, giving the White House proper contagious we set the State Dining evaluations, and sharing joy was all I Room for 120 guests and The the East Roomstaff for 240 had hoped to experience.

Residence has guests, seated would be served.

At no finerwhere moment thandinners when we are able to lift the the same the Rose Garden was beautifully burden oftime the first family’s responsibilities even tented, slightly.carpeted, and decorated like a supper club to host another 240over guests a buffet dinner. All of It was the case myatfour administrations thesethe meals were prepared our rather main that first lady is theinbest sourcesmall of family kitchen,when and all to to be beverage served at the sameFrom time. wishes it were comes service.

After the meals to were completed, were Hillary Clinton Melania Trump,the theguests first ladies the Washington Monument grounds, Iinvited served to enjoyed wine with meals, often preferring where with seating was prepared for them celebrate wines character and depth thattoreflect the the transition of two centuries.

While theI served guests world they inhabit.

Two of the presidents were at the Monument grounds, theother staff completedid not consume alcohol, and the two very ly transformed the White House into four reception sparingly. spaces, ready host 1700 anticipated guests for To place thetodiscussions of wine service at the music and an in early White House realmorning context, buffet.

I wouldAnd likeall tothese walk sequences were planned under theduring specter ofwatch. an imyou through events that occurred my pending doom, should all the computers the world These demonstrate how White in House staff crash stroke of midnight.

Andsituations. please rememadaptsattothe unexpected and unusual The ber that this was December in Washington, D.C. most involved and in many 31 ways the largest event uncertainties of winter weather were Eve another IThe worked was the Millennium New Year’s celeconstant backdrop the planning. bration during the to Clinton administration, the inThe wines we served at the Millennium event famous Y2K night.

Mrs. Clinton wanted to start the were Sterlingwith Chardonnay Winery 1998 new century a grand fete.

WithLake the help of and outDehlinger Pinotwe Noir Estate 1997.

Winery Lake was side designers, turned the Jacqueline Kennedy

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medical team expressed about chemone of California’s finest concern vineyards, and the its owner, icals that had been stored decades inwho the room Rene Di Rosa, was an artistfor and collector filled that was proposed to be the kitchen.

Always the vineyard with sculptures: its wine reallylooking fit the for the positive, the White House moment of a century change.

Tomcarpenters Dehlinger and was operations crews worked to construct an acclaimed master of California Pinotfalse Noirwalls and the room and entirely them in heavy-duty aincult winemaker whoseseal wines carry great presplastic to prevent any them. contamination.

Our housetige—if you could find His wines showed the keeping edge crew of came next, bringinggreatness every surface to cutting what California would pristine perfection.

After securing blessings of become in the twenty-first century.the These choices the medical team, appropriate, the butlers, chefs, seemed especially but weand alsocurators needed gingerly brought White House Collection place setwineries that could supply increased cases, given tings along with and florals to create perthe numbers andlinens the duration of this event. aBoth fect country look. with Adding sensethe of needed theater, wineries worked us to to the source we poured WillaKenzie Pinot Blanc 2006, from a bottles.

white house history quarterly

To celebrate To celebrate the the new Millennium, new Millennium, President and President and Mrs. Mrs. Clinton shared shared a a Clinton toast with toast with their their guests in guests in the the East East Room, December December 31, 31, Room, 1999. The The festivities festivities 1999. included fireworks fireworks included on the the Washington Washington on Monument Monument grounds. grounds.

T TO OP P A AN ND D B BO OT TT TO OM M :: G GE ET TT TY Y II M MA AG GE ES S

Garden one of California’s into a tented, finest carpeted, vineyards, and and draped its owner, cabRene Di Rosa, was anarea, artistwhere and collector whoguests filled aret-like reception incoming the vineyard sculptures: its wine really fit the could minglewith prior to the receiving line. Inside moment a century change.

Tom was the WhiteofHouse proper we set theDehlinger State Dining an acclaimed California and Room for 120master guests of and the EastPinot RoomNoir for 240 a cult winemaker whose wines carry presguests, where seated dinners would be great served.

At tige—if youtime could find them.

His wines the the same the Rose Garden was showed beautifully cutting edge of what Californialike greatness would tented, carpeted, and decorated a supper club become in the twenty-first century. choices to host another 240 guests at a buffetThese dinner.

All of seemed especially appropriate, we also needed these meals were prepared in ourbut rather small main wineries thatall could increased kitchen, and weresupply to be served at thecases, samegiven time. the numbers andwere the duration of this event. Both After the meals completed, the guests were wineries with us toMonument source thegrounds, needed invited toworked the Washington bottles.seating was prepared for them to celebrate where Millennium at centuries. the White House was guests one of theThe transition of two While the thoseat occasions you do grounds, not measure in time but in were the Monument the staff completeyour ability to the push sleepHouse deprivation out of your ly transformed White into four reception thoughts.

As the guests departed at 7:00 a.m. for on spaces, ready to host 1700 anticipated guests New Day, we took solace in knowing had musicYear’s and an early morning buffet.

And allwethese created something magical. sequences were planned under the specter of an imAnother unique experience took place at Mount pending doom, should all computers in the world Vernon, where 2007 President crash at the strokeinof November midnight. And please rememGeorge President Nicolas Sarkozy ber thatW. thisBush was hosted December 31 in Washington, D.C. of France for a luncheon the greenhouse.

For The uncertainties of winterinweather were another years thisbackdrop small building had been the gardeners’ constant to the planning. domain at thewe estate.

It at had never been used for The wines served the Millennium event a meal, muchChardonnay less one of such stature. we were Sterling Winery LakeWhen 1998 and first visited the Noir potential White House Dehlinger Pinot Estatesite, 1997.the Winery Lake was

wonderful The Millennium Oregon winery at the White ownedHouse by a French was one émiof gré. was very powerful tomeasure see two heads state thoseItoccasions you do not in timeofbut in in oneability of ourto nation’s most historic settings: history your push sleep deprivation out of your made real.As the guests departed at 7:00 a.m. on thoughts.

The third event at knowing Camp David by New Year’s Day, we was tookhosted solace in we had President Barack Obama for the G8 Summit, May created something magical.

18–19, 2012.

This experience meeting had been Another unique tookoriginally place at Mount scheduledwhere for Chicago, but President deVernon, in November 2007 Obama President cided toW. invite guests to CampNicolas David Sarkozy instead, George Bushthe hosted President as many them had not visited site and heFor beof Franceoffor a luncheon in thethe greenhouse. lievedthis its informality would bebeen conducive to better years small building had the gardeners’ conversation. a truly beautiful domain at the Camp estate.David It had is never been used forloa cation in Maryland’s Catoctin Mountains meal, much less one of such stature.

Whenset weaside first for the the president to use heWhite wishes.

All four presvisited potential site,as the House medical idents I served grew to love its sense of tranquility. team expressed concern about the chemicals that Asbeen you stored can imagine, however, it is one that thingwas to had for decades in the room change antoinvitation and another to change proposed be the kitchen.

Always looking for the planning for guests eight countries.and Moreover, positive, the Whitefrom House carpenters operaCamp Davidworked is a navy-run facilityfalse for walls hosting tions crews to construct in the first family and guests, notinthe president and room and entirely seal them heavy-duty plastic eight headsany of state.

We were requested to supply to prevent contamination.

Our housekeeping support, and, of bringing course, we readily accepted.

Our crew came next, every surface to pristine chefs quickly developed that related the perfection.

After securingmenus the blessings of thetomedCatoctin we and selected localgingerwines ical team,Mountains, the butlers,and chefs, curators to brought complement summit.

Slate, place a blend, nonly Whitethe House Collection settings vintage winelinens from Black Ankle to Winery Airy, along with and florals createinaMt. perfect Maryland, wasAdding selected red of wine.

For the country look. tofor thethe sense theater, we white, we usually do not2006, selectfrom two awines pouredbecause WillaKenzie Pinot Blanc wonfrom the same winery state onowned a menu, inchedémigré. down derful Oregon by aweFrench

thewas Bullvery Runpowerful Mountain the of Piedmont It to Range see twointo heads state in of Virginia choosemost Painted Whitesettings: from Blenheim one of our to nation’s historic history Vineyards made real.outside Charlottesville. Curators, butlers, chefs, housekeeping, and operations Thecalligraphers, third event was hosted at Camp David by collaborated to make theforevent a huge success.

President Barack Obama the G8 Summit, May Watching the synergy among the David been crew, 18–19, 2012.

This meeting hadCamp originally the State Department, White House scheduled for Chicago,and but the President Obamawas deenthralling. cided to invite the guests to Camp David instead, A moment that truly forsite meand thehe mysas many of them had not clarified visited the betique woven by the Executive Residence to was the lieved its informality would be conducive better State Dinner hosted President George W. Bush conversation.

Camp by David is a truly beautiful loand Mrs. Bush for Queen Elizabeth II of cation in Maryland’s Catoctin Mountains setGreat aside Britain on May 7,to2007. dinnerAll was thepresculfor the president use asThis he wishes. four mination of thegrew queen’s four-day visitof that began at idents I served to love its sense tranquility. theAs Jamestown settlement in Virginia, where you can imagine, however, it is one thingshe to commemorated the four-hundredth change an invitation and another to anniversary change the of its founding.

After celebratory days inMoreover, Virginia, planning for guests from eight countries.

Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip to the Camp David is a navy-run facility forcame hosting White Houseand for an Arrivalnot Ceremony and a whitefirst family guests, the president and tie State Dinner. eight heads of state. We were requested to supply Such and, a dinner represents theaccepted. pinnacleOur of support, of course, we readily American hospitality and is our country’s chefs quickly developed menus that related tohighthe est honor.Mountains, The wines and selected had to match, and Catoctin we selected local wines California wineries established by aEnglishmen to complement the summit.

Slate, blend, nonwould make a personal connection. selected vintage wine from Black Ankle WineryWe in Mt. Airy, Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered 2004 and Peter Maryland, was selected for the red wine.

For the Michael Les Pavots red blend 2003.

Peter Newton white, because we usually do not select two wines was Englishman to we Saninched Francisco as froman the same statewho on acame menu, down athe journalist and later started Sterling International, Bull Run Mountain Range into the Piedmont

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

Daniel Shanks Daniel Shanks with George George with Hannie reviews reviews Hannie the preparations preparations the for a a luncheon luncheon for hosted by

by President President hosted George W. W. Bush Bush in in George honor of of President President honor Nicolas Sarkozy Nicolas Sarkozy of France France in in a a of greenhouse on on the the greenhouse grounds of of George George grounds Washington’s Washington’s Mount Vernon.

Vernon.

Mount It was was the It the first first time the time the historic historic structure had structure had been been used for for such such an an used event. event.

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left

Daniel Shanks recalls that the successful preparations for the G8 Summit hosted at Camp David by President Barack Obama in May 2012 required the collaboration of curators, butlers, chefs, calligraphers, housekeeping, and operations. opposite

took this rule to heart. As the evening progressed, I was told by the chief usher that the queen had made one request. At the conclusion of the evening, as the heads of state exited the East Room where the to personally greetperformed, six members the Residence Army Chorus had the of queen had asked staff in appreciation the reception and the to personally greet sixofmembers of theshe Residence prince had been granted.

We assembled in linethe in staff in appreciation of the reception she and the Entrance Hall, and the queen moved to each prince had been granted. We assembled in line in of with a handshake light greeting.

Aseach she theusEntrance Hall, and and the queen moved to departed North Portico, stoodgreeting. a little stunned of us withthe a handshake andIlight As she yet grateful, realizing more intimately thanstunned ever the departed the North Portico, I stood a little honor, duty,realizing and responsibility that came yet grateful, more intimately thanfrom ever the the opportunity I was given in 1995. honor, duty, and responsibility that came from the These events are described to demonstrate the opportunity I was given in 1995. fluidity of each moment at the House and These events are described toWhite demonstrate the how we responded “outside the box” to find solufluidity of each moment at the White House and tions,we always without“outside personalthe self-gratification but how responded box” to find soluin recognition that we are serving a greater good. tions, always without personal self-gratification but Many people in the past have held the positions we in recognition that we are serving a greater good. were fortunate enough to be offered, and we unMany people in the past have held the positions we derstand that the day each walks out were fortunate enough to of beusoffered, andthrough we unthose gates forthe theday final time, wewalks become part of derstand that each of us out athrough White House A new will take up the those gates forhistory. the final time,cadre we become a part of banner, and that is as it should be.

White House history. A new cadre will take up the banner, and that is as it should be.

white house history quarterly

After expressing her wish to meet six members of the household staff who had prepared above for her visit, Queen Daniel Shanks Elizabeth II shakes recalls that hands with Chef the successful Bill Yosses. Daniel preparations for Shanks, third from the G8 Summit left, recalled the hosted at Camp experience as the David by President culmination of his Barack Obama in career.

May 2012 required the collaboration of curators, butlers, chefs, calligraphers, housekeeping, and operations. opposite

After expressing her wish to meet six members of the household staff who had prepared for her visit, Queen Elizabeth II shakes hands with Chef Bill Yosses. Daniel Shanks, third from left, recalled the experience as the culmination of his career.

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

of Virginia to choose Painted White from Blenheim Vineyards outside Charlottesville. Curators, butlers, chefs, calligraphers, housekeeping, and operations collaborated to make the event a huge success.

Watching the synergy among the Camp David crew, the State Department, and the White House was enthralling.

A moment that truly clarified for me the mystique woven by the Executive Residence was the State Dinner hosted by President George W. Bush and Mrs. Bush for Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain on May 7, 2007. This dinner was the culmination of the queen’s four-day visit that began at the Jamestown settlement in Virginia, where she commemorated the four-hundredth anniversary of its founding. After celebratory days in Virginia, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip came to the White House for an Arrival Ceremony and a whitetie State Dinner.

Such a dinner represents the pinnacle of American hospitality and is our country’s highest honor. The wines selected had to match, and California wineries established by Englishmen a pulp paper international giant. He grew to love would make a personal connection. We selected Napa Valley and founded Sterling Winery and later Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered 2004 and Peter his own Newton Winery. Each was a design and Michael Les Pavots red blend 2003. Peter Newton horticultural masterpiece. Sir Peter Michael was was an Englishman who came to San Francisco as also an Englishman. He pioneered digital special a journalist and later started Sterling International, effects that revolutionized television as we know it. a pulp paper international giant. He grew to love He founded “Classic FM” in the United Kingdom Napa Valley and founded Sterling Winery and later and in 1989 was knighted by Queen Elizabeth for his own Newton Winery. Each was a design and his commercial achievements. horticultural masterpiece. Sir Peter Michael was Given the magnitude of the event, the staff was also an Englishman. He pioneered digital special totally immersed in its preparation and execution, effects that revolutionized television as we know it. every action rethought to the nth degree. Everyone He founded “Classic FM” in the United Kingdom became part of the magic, feeling an active particand in 1989 was knighted by Queen Elizabeth for ipant in creating history. Personally, I reflected on his commercial achievements. this as the culmination of my career in hospitality Given the magnitude of the event, the staff was and, along with our staff, knew we could rise to the totally immersed in its preparation and execution, moment. every action rethought to the nth degree. Everyone For diplomatic events such as this, the State became part of the magic, feeling an active particDepartment issues firm guidelines on protocol. ipant in creating history. Personally, I reflected on One of the main points of focus for us was to be this as the culmination of my career in hospitality omnipresent performing our duties but always and, along with our staff, knew we could rise to the in the background. The queen was not to be apmoment. proached or addressed by staff for any reason. We For diplomatic events such as this, the State took this rule to heart. As the evening progressed, I Department issues firm guidelines on protocol. was told by the chief usher that the queen had made One of the main points of focus for us was to be one request. At the conclusion of the evening, as omnipresent performing our duties but always the heads of state exited the East Room where the in the background. The queen was not to be apArmy Chorus had performed, the queen had asked proached or addressed by staff for any reason. We

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