DINING SCENE: Closing the Gap

STORY BY ALYSSA NOEL

BRICKWORKS’ PRIYANKA LEWIS HAS BEEN INNOVATING DURING THE PANDEMIC WITH NEW CONCEPTS LIKE “STACKED,” A FOOD DELIVERY OPTION.

CLOSING THE GAP

DECADES AGO THE RESORT’S RESTAURANT LANDSCAPE WAS DECIDEDLY MALE-DOMINATED, BUT IN RECENT YEARS, DIVERSITY HAS BECOME THE FLAVOUR

LOGAN SWAYZE T o say whistler’s food scene was male dominated when Karen Roland arrived 32 years ago would be an understatement.

All of the major players in fine dining were men. While that’s changed to some degree—in a town that, in recent history, boasted a woman mayor, fire chief, head of the Chamber of Commerce and CEO of Tourism Whistler—it’s still a bit of a novelty to find a female restaurateur running the show.

“You do need to be strong, have a strong personality, and the will to do it,” Roland says. “If you let the men walk all over you, you’re not going to get anywhere.”

It doesn’t happen very often these days, but Roland also brings years of experience and authority running establishments. She started as the hostess at Hoz’s (a locals’ favourite Creekside pub) in 1993 and worked her way up to bartending and waitressing for over 14-and-a-half years before she bought the business and turned it into Roland’s Pub.

“I learned so much from [Ron Hosner] and his wife,” she says. “What to do and what not to do. It was a huge learning experience for me.”

Then, in 2013, Roland shifted gears entirely and, in contrast to the local watering hole, opened up the well-regarded, high-end Red Door Bistro next door with chef R.D. Stewart. The management style she brings to both establishments, however, is the same.

“One thing that’s very important in running a business is (to) appreciate your staff,” she says. “Without them, you don’t have a business.”

That can range from a simple thank you, to benefits, to ski passes for long-time employees.

It’s gone a long way during the challenges of navigating the COVID-19 pandemic too. As the pandemic continues throughout 2021, Roland says the patio is a great spot to welcome guests in the summer. There’s also the summer menu to look forward to. >>

KAREN ROLAND, OF THE ALWAYS POPULAR RED DOOR BISTRO AND THE LOCALS’ FAVOURITE ROLAND’S PUB, HAS BEEN A TRAILBLAZER IN THE INDUSTRY IN WHISTLER.

“R.D. changes the menu with the season,” she says. “He does some great soups and salads, and fish dishes that are amazing.”

But if guests are in the mood for something classic, their crowd pleasers also remain, including the West Coast Bouillabaisse packed with crab claws, prawns, mussels, scallops and fresh fish, the duck confit spring rolls complete with pickled ginger and roasted garlic puree, and red currant sauce, and braised chuck flats consisting of slow-cooked boneless angus beef.

“[Those are] iconic items that have been on the menu since the beginning,” Roland says.

Like Roland, Naoko Homma is also a long-time local who started in the restaurant industry three decades ago.

“When I moved here almost 30 years ago there were only a few restaurants and they were all owned by male owners,” Homma says. “Now, I don’t see it the same way. There are lots of restaurants owned by females and they’re all successful. I don’t see much difference.”

Until he passed away in 2017, Homma co-owned Sushi Village with her husband, Miki—though he technically retired a few years prior and spent plenty of time in Mexico in the winter pursuing his passion for kiteboarding. Homma managed the front of house side of the business as well as the kitchen. As Miki began to move out of the business, she delved into all aspects of running a busy restaurant in Whistler.

“When Miki retired, I had to learn everything,” she says. “I had to take over the business.”

Not only is Sushi Village known for its excellent sushi offerings, but it’s also beloved among locals for its good-time atmosphere.

“It was Miki’s passion to introduce traditional Japanese food and enjoy life in Whistler,” Homma says. “I think it became successful because of the good food and atmosphere all the time—people having fun. We have a great staff. I’m following his legacy the same as before.”

Last year, during the height of stress for the restaurant industry, Homma was honoured by the Whistler Chamber of Commerce as part of its Excellence Awards as Business Person of the Year.

“That was very surprising,” she says. “Now, people recognize my face … I totally did not expect this. It was an honour to have been nominated as Business Person of the Year. I think Miki would’ve been so proud of me. Without him, I would not have received this.”

“WHEN I MOVED

HERE ALMOST

30 YEARS AGO

THERE WERE

ONLY A FEW

RESTAURANTS

AND THEY WERE

ALL OWNED BY

MALE OWNERS.”

– Naoko Homma

After a successful pivot to mostly takeout food during the worst of the pandemic, Homma is looking ahead to summer and the seasonal menu.

“We usually create some special things before summer,” she says. But, all year long, you can taste beloved menu items like their spicy agedashi tofu or the super hiro roll.

“People love the spicy sauce all year long,” Homma says.

Over at Brickworks, Priyanka Lewis says it was more her young age rather than being a woman that forced her to work extra hard to be taken seriously as a young Whistler entrepreneur nearly 13 years ago.

“I just don’t view being female as negative,” she says. “I just charge on forward. That’s how I’ve been my whole life.”

However, women entrepreneurs can bring different viewpoints and skills to the table, which is why diversity can be so important.

“I think women have a different way of dealing with situations and I think for our company, we are very employee focused. I’m not sure whether men have the same leadership style as females. My background is also psychology. That’s what I studied. I’m a problem solver; I look at the human perspective.”

An example of that has been managing employees during the pandemic.

“I held a session at work about mental health and being vulnerable,” she continues.

“I put myself out there, my team put themselves out there. We said we would be there to pick each other up. I think that’s really helped.”

Throughout the last year, the team at Brickworks was constantly revamping the menu to adjust to the ever-changing situation for restaurants.

“We’re always looking to innovate and be different throughout the pandemic. We launched fish and chips, poutine, and “Stacked,” which is our newest concept,” Lewis says, referring to their savoury delivery option for inventive versions of their famous chicken sandwich, burgers and wings.

With more than 30 types of gin for cocktails and their ever-popular beer-pan chicken and peanut-crusted pork rack, Brickworks is primed to welcome guests back for the dine-in experience throughout the summer. W

NAOKO HOMMA CARRIES THE TORCH AT SUSHI VILLAGE AFTER HUSBAND MIKI’S PASSING FOUR YEARS AGO.