FOLKLORE
FOLKLORE
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The House of Dior
FOLKLORE
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Brand Ambassador
The fashion, the artistry, the man. Dive into the rich history and luxurious world of Christian Dior.
The star of Black Widow takes on Dior, bringing with her a feminine strength and a stylish sense of empowerment.
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Imbuing the brand with a modern feminist stance, Dior’s creative director speaks to a new audience of young women.
Immerse in the ethereal imagery of Dior’s latest pop-up campaign, reimagining mythical concepts with the grit of denim.
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Explore a contemporary Dior collection and discover the delicate motifs that characterise brand codes.
One of the biggest fashion markets in the US, Folklore is set to launch in New York City this season.
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The intersection between luxury and trend; Dior reinvents the hallmarks of denim for a modern audience.
An exclusive preview of the full Folklore range; discover the latest in products and accessories.
Maria Grazia Chiuri
Resort 2021
Denim & Dior
Dior Folklore
New York City
Branding
The House of
DIOR
Fury and Sabatini (2017, p.13) wrote that the true fashion moment celebrates the ‘hopes and fears and aspirations of then and there’. On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior did exactly that. In a world engulfed by post-war trauma, Dior reigned in a new era for French couture and created an ephemeral expression of hope. His New Look was an opulent rejection of post-war misery (Sowray 2012), embracing all that was empoweringly feminine and thus foregrounding the values of the House of Dior. Dior himself was raised alongside French surrealism whilst nostalgically dreaming of la belle epoque. Owning an art gallery with the help of his parents, Dior showcased the work of prominent artists including Picasso and Dali (Christian Dior: The Magic of Fashion 1994). It was not until the age of 30 that he moved into the world of fashion, becoming an assistant to Robert Piguet and eventually, a junior designer for Lucien Lelong. (Christian Dior: The Magic of Fashion 1994). By 1946, Dior had launched his label, supported by Marcel Boussac (Sowray 2012); yet it was the following year that Dior’s New Look, with its controversially lowered hemline, tightened waist and flaring hips reimagined the future of fashion. De la Haye notes the ‘outcry about the extravagance of these dresses’ (1988, p.85), criticism that simply galvanised Dior; ‘Europe was tired of dropping bombs’, he wrote, ‘and now only wanted to let off fireworks’ (2007, p.36). The soft femininity of New Look continues to inspire the House of Dior today. From the Bar Jacket to the Full A-Line skirt, the creative directors that have succeeded Dior have worked to honour the literal motifs, silhouettes, and ethereal spirit of his label. From the relaxed elegance of Saint Laurent’s Trapeze collection to the slim look of Bohan; the dramatic construction of Ferre and Galliano to the suave sophistication of Simmons. As Galliano (cited in Fury & Sabatini 2017, p.17) articulated, ‘I see us as the guarders of his spirit, the keepers of his dreams’. With Maria Grazia Chiuri now at the helm, the House of Dior remains paramount within the modern zeitgeist, particularly with regards to feminism. Under her guidance, Christian Dior’s artistic and ambitious spirit empowers the Maison, enabling the label to challenge and reinvent the world of fashion.
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CHRISTIAN DIOR SPRING 2017 READY-TO-WEAR
MARIA Grazia CHIURI
‘Culture does not make people. People make culture’ reads Adichie’s political essay We Should All Be Feminists (2014). In her debut collection for Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri referred to Adichie’s work. The Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear line featured a slogan t-shirt emphatically declaring that “we should all be feminists”, foregrounding the fierce spirit Chiuri was to employ as the first female artistic director of the brand. After designing for Fendi, Chiuri joined Valentino as an accessory designer in 1999, eventually becoming a co-creative director by 2008 (Business of Fashion 2021). The following year, she succeeded Raf Simmons as the artistic director of Dior. Since being appointed, Chiuri has imbued the house codes of Dior with contemporary feminist empowerment. Just as Dior’s New Look represented opulence and beauty, Chiuri’s regal encapsulation of femininity informs each new collection and consecrates Dior’s place within the feminist zeitgeist. As Mower (2016, para. 1) described, the artistic director excels at ‘drawing in a new audience’ of young women. In terms of traditional motifs, Chiuri frequently pays homage to Dior’s superstitious disposition with celestial prints, as well as employing house signifiers such as the Oblique and Houndstooth patterns, bees, and reinvigorating Galliano’s Saddle Bag. Nonetheless, she asserts that the feminist discourse is what galvanises her cause; ‘Dior is a Maison that represents femininity’ she declares (cited in Phelps 2019, para. 3), ‘…[and] my commitment is to make women aware of their potential’.
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Case Study
RESORT 2021
As Singer (2019, para. 4) articulates, Maria Grazia Chiuri is ‘a woman who knows too much’. It is this extensive collection of research and knowledge that consistently informs her designs and curation, as epitomised in Dior’s Resort 2021 collection. Set in the exquisite Italian town of Puglia, Chiuri imbued this collection with her signature flair for global activism, collaborating with native craftspeople. Such influence throughout the collection is perverse; tombolo embroidery, authentic woven pieces, even an elaborately conceptualised luminarie display for the runway (Phelps 2020). Of course, this practice of alluding to regional craftsmanship has been employed by Chiuri before, such as Dior’s Resort 2020 collection which saw the recreation of toile de Jouy (a house signature) through native wax print. Chiuri consistently immerses herself in regional themes when designing a collection, upholding the both the feminist and political statements she has been seeking to make since her debut. But beyond literal Puglian textiles, there were also conceptual ideas inspiring the collection. Carreon (2020, para. 3) observes that the city’s rich history with ‘bohemia, agriculture and arts and crafts’ is evident in the pinafore dresses and blanket skirts, whilst pastoral headscarves further alluded to the ‘beautiful countryside’. In turns, Chiuri continues to connect nostalgia with contemporary design, looking to honour the value of tradition yet hoping to pave a stronger future. THE CORSET As Chiuri (cited in Phelps 2020, para. 4) states “fashion has to be comfortable – that’s part of my DNA”. Enter the flowing silhouettes; elegant, feminine, and not dissimilar from Greco-Roman drapery. Yet the nipped waist of a handcrafted leather corset connects this signature Chiuri silhouette to the house of Dior, imbuing a somewhat mythological majesty with Monsieur Dior’s iconic constructed look. NATIVE CRAFTSMANSHIP Maria Grazia Chiuri never fails to honour tradition, looking to local artistry for inspiration at every opportunity. Dior’s Resort 2021 is no exception, epitomising a celebration of this theme. From the tombolo embroidery by Marilena Sparacsi to the hand-woven prints of the Giulia and Lucia Starace, the exquisite textures of this collection point towards a heritage of intricacy and divine craftsmanship. ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE Wheat-straw motifs and pastoral headscarves; Resort 2021 is peppered with motifs that honour the country in which it was showcased. Paying homage to the rich agriculture of Puglia, and combining such with traditional textile techniques, Chiuri’s practice of merging old and new worlds in design is truly timeless.
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FEATURED CAMPAIGN PHOTOGRAPHY AND LOOKS FROM DIOR RESORT 2021
Denim &
DIOR
Drawing from Dior’s Resort 2020 campaign, denim takes the centre stage as the core aesthetic inspiration. The collection itself drew from North African themes and showcased a wax print of Dior’s modern signature, toile de jouy. In turn, Chiuri looked to communicate that, as Phelps (2020, para. 4) describes, ‘African textile can embody luxury at the highest level’. However, denim is integral in achieving this degree of luxury. Perhaps the strongest element is the use of colour, with denim supporting the palette of this campaign. The rich dark blue is sophisticated and stylish, deviating from the casual connotations of the material. Coupled with the patterned elements, echoing that stunning toile de Jouy print, the consistency in colour is soothing and aesthetically excellent, heightening the luxurious appeal. Furthermore, as the background celebrates the intricacy of the pattern, the denim becomes further associated with quality craftsmanship – a hallmark of luxury. Furthermore, the campaign is a magnificent study of texture and detail. The close-ups draw attention to delicate pearls and gold ornamentations; a whirlwind of visible luxury in which denim appears tangible and coveted. The photography further celebrates the rough texture of denim, rendering such a key design feature that adds flavour to the image. Collectively, the campaign not only celebrates the key native themes that inspired Resort 2020 by exploring the toile de Jouy print but furthermore contextualises denim within the House of Dior and reimagines such as luxurious. Dior’s Spring / Summer 2018 campaign showcases denim with an air of premium style. The 60s inspired images are intricately connected to the realm of art, with the collection itself paying homage to former Dior muse, Niki de Saint Phalle (Mowett 2018). The campaign is what Mowett (2018, para. 2) calls ‘equal parts artistic, feminine and cheekily playful’ as it immerses itself in the beauty of illustration. The drawings themselves are originals by the featured model, Sasha Pivovarova, who sported the collection’s ‘Why have there been no great women artists?’ piece on the runway. In yoking together an artistic theme and the texture of denim, Chiuri brings a sense of sophistication to the denim products. By merging the worlds of artistry and denim, the latter is imbued with culture beyond its heritage, a larger picture of bespoke craftsmanship and design. In turn, this communicates the idea of luxury to the target audience; a prestige emphasised by the exquisite bags and accessories that accompany the clothes. As Berlinger (2018, para. 3) describes, the campaign encapsulates Chiuri’s vision to ‘balance beauty with substance’, underpinning divine imagery with feminist energy.
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Florence
For a house that embraces feminine strength, Florence Pugh embodies the empowering codes of Dior. Merging the worlds of film and fashion, Pugh’s luxurious and youthful visual language speaks to the target audience and galvanises the spirit of the Folklore campaign. Newbold (2021, para. 3) describes her fashion journey as “thrilling to watch”, engaging millennials and communicating a sense of premium style – one that is simultaneously tough and chic. Her looks are consistently styled with precision and coherence, often sporting a matching set or monochromatic colour scheme. In terms of form, her short silhouettes resonate with a younger demographic, whilst her other draping looks echo the luxurious fantasy of Folklore and the form of the featured garment. In terms of aligning with the brand’s legacy, Pugh is an active voice in the feminist film movement, predominantly working with female directors and tackling complex, powerful characters (Wood 2020). Thus, Chiuri’s mission to imbue Dior with an opulent encapsulation of femininity is wonderfully reflected in Pugh’s ambition. As the star of the recently released Black Widow (2021), Pugh is furthermore at the forefront of today’s feminist conversations bringing a bold strength to the Marvel franchise. This, combined with a spirited presence on social media, posits Pugh as an admirable ambassador to a millennial and Gen Z target market (aged 21 – 29). She is emblematic of a fresh and luxurious, yet youthful lifestyle, rendering her a wonderful selection to represent the Folklore campaign.
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PUGH AT DIOR’S FALL 2021 COUTURE SHOW
PUGH
PUGH PHOTOGRAPHED FOR VOGUE, FEBRUARY 2020.
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FOLKLORE Today, luxury manifests within aspiration. The modern world presents images of beauty and opulence, positing products as objects of desire. Dior Folklore, in a similar way, conceptualises luxury through the idea of the ethereal. Celebrating a product with an almost mythical silhouette, the purpose of the campaign was to reimagine soft, fairy-tale imagery with the grit of denim and the strength of femininity. Inspired by the iconic feminist wave Maria Grazia Chiuri has instilled within the House of Dior, Folklore presents fantastical and haunting visuals to communicate beauty. The campaign is further motivated by Dior’s history of craftsmanship, design, and luxury. The product itself draws from Dior’s Spring 2017 Couture collection, sporting a loose, hooded silhouette and channelling the mystical energy of the show. To maintain this mythic spirit, the imagery of the campaign features hidden faces and ghost mannequins for an emotive edge. However, the campaign was to be contextualised within a modern zeitgeist, celebrating the textures and styles of a youthful market. Denim thus becomes the essence of Folklore as the campaign adapts the hallmarks of the textile. The palette of the campaign draws from the dark and light blues of denim, whilst the rich texture of the material is showcased within palpable imagery. Similarly, the hallmarks of luxury worked to position Folklore within the realm of Dior. Layers of accessories offer a complete
and expensive look that celebrates the garment, with a strong focus on texture and craftsmanship to drive the idea of quality. In this light, the intricacy of the product’s pattern also creates a sense of premium luxury. The pattern itself is an amalgam of design elements and principles, the most notable of which being shape. The geometric complexity of this design gives it a bespoke edge that in turn evokes luxury. These shapes are further subject to scale, intricately fitting within each other and building on this detail. Gradation is also utilised as the pattern trails down the back and front of the garment, dispersing delicately and becoming almost celestial. Colour is also used to draw from the hues of blue denim and celebrate the material. With Florence Pugh as the ambassador, the target audience for the Folklore campaign is 23 – 29-year-old females. Whilst they can be linked through demographics such as working full-time jobs, having disposable incomes, and living in developed areas, they are also connected on a deeper, psychological level. They believe in the strength of femininity and are empowered by their confidence, surrounding themselves with friends who hold similar views to their own. In this light, they can resonate with the femininity that drives the Folklore campaign and long to be a part of the story. Folklore thus works to honour the legacy of the Dior and simultaneously merge the luxurious world of fashion with the youthful and fiery spirit of denim.
Photographed and styled by Deanna-Rae Ciconte
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FOLKLORE
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FOLKLORE
new york
‘DIOR FOLKLORE’ IS SET TO LAUNCH IN NYC, APPEALING TO A LIVELY AND ENERGETIC MARKET. The United States accounts for 24% of global revenue for the house of Dior (Statista Research Department 2021), making it the second-biggest sector worldwide. Currently transitioning into the fall / winter season, this market features youthful and revealing styles that maintain elegant femininity.With both of Dior’s global ambassadors (Yara Shahidi andTravis Scott) being American, this global sector has an undeniable influence on the brand’s marketing strategies. Naturally, inspiration is often taken from this market to fuel collections, as recently demonstrated in the Texan deserts of the recent Spring / Summer 2022 menswear show (Fury 2021). With its youthful and trendy market, New York will be the launch location for the Dior Folklore campaign. As Dhiraj (2019, para. 3) articulates, the city encourages a ‘bold, lively and nonconformist’ approach to fashion, presenting a market that aligns with the values of the target audience. Similarly, the campaign itself embraces a contemporary aesthetic as well as unconventional silhouettes, pairing well with the vibrant energy of New York. In addition to visual merchandising displays, the campaign will appear in subway advertising as a touchpoint in everyday life. Beyond this, the billboard on the corner of Houston and Lafayette will also be utilised, dubbed one of the most ‘coveted ads in New York City’ precisely for the youthful market it attracts (Bobila 2019, para. 3). Collectively, the campaign will establish a sense of luxury and grandeur, working to enthral its audience with ethereal imagery.
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Oblique Trench Coat $6,600 Shirt Dress $6,300 Small Dior Bobby Bag $3,500 Dior French Bucket Hat $1,190 30 Montaigne Earrings $720 Dior Tribales Earrings $560 J’Adior Bracelet $520 30 Montaigne Ring $470 CD Navy Ring $380 J’Adior Ring $390 Total Cost: $20,630 All pricing in USD. 27
STORE EXTERIOR HUDSON YARDS, NEW YORK CITY.
VISUAL MERCHANDISING DISPLAY FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK.
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SUBWAY ADVERTISING, NEW YORK CITY.
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CORNER OF HOUSTON AND LAFAYETTE, SOHO, NEW YORK.
Dior Folklore
BRANDING
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‘DIOR FOLKLORE’ TOTE BAG
‘DIOR FOLKLORE’ COLLECTION TAGS
‘DIOR FOLKLORE’ SLIDES
‘DIOR FOLKLORE’ PRODUCT BAG
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