SAMUEL WARREN by whitehouse-design

LES PORTES SOMBRES A/W MENSWEAR

“Les Portes Sombres” is an Autumn/Winter menswear collection that draws inspiration from the novel “Das Perfume Die: Deschichte eines Mörders” (1985) by Patrick Süskind, exploring the questions it raises regarding human morality. Through meticulously crafted garments, the collection explores the descent of protagonist Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, encapsulating the duality of beauty and corruption, balancing fluidity, structure, light, and shadow. Prioritising craftsmanship and specialist techniques, “Les Portes Sombres” features advanced lacework and patternmaking techniques, hand-made welt-buttonholes, imported French buttons, and upcycled, repurposed vintage Aran sweaters.

The collection’s palette creates a narrative that is both nuanced and evocative. The juxtaposition of muted, earthy tones with deeper, more intense hues reflects the dualities explored in the collection: light and darkness, innocence and corruption, the natural and the grotesque. The interplay between these colours amplifies the collection’s theme. Each tone is selected to evoke a sense of feminine masculinity, embracing its roots within the early Romantic period of the late 18th century.

A deep appreciation for literature and the arts has greatly shaped my perspective and inspired my creative journey. Growing up, artwork and literature provided windows into fully realised worlds, decorated with unique and troubled characters and themes. I have always been drawn to the way various artistic mediums have the power to strip back the façade and reveal the deeper layers of human nature.

“And suddenly solitude fell across his heart like a dusty reflection. He closed his eyes. The dark doors within him opened and he entered.

The next performance in the theater of Grenouille’s soul was beginning.”

- Patrick Süskind (1985)

Photohraphy and Styling by April Raymond

Photohraphy by Annabelle Trainor

“A

power stronger than the power of money or the power of terror or the power of death: the invincible power to command the love of mankind.”

Morella Brown Wool Coating; 80% Wool, 20% Cashmere

Weight: 320 gsm

Cost/m: $119

Width: 150cm

Care Instructions: DRY CLEAN ONLY

Source: ALL Fabrics sourced from Tessuti Fabrics

Festa Citrene Shantung

Italian citrene/chartreuse 60% Silk, 40% cotton shantung

Width: 150gsm

Cost/m: $89

Care Instructions: Dry Clean

Italian mid Grey/Red checked 100% Wool

Flannel

Width: 154cm

Weight: 220gsm

Cost/m: $89

Care Instructions: DRY CLEAN ONLY

Tawny Resin Buttons

Diameter: 48mm

Cost/b: �7.08

Source: Buttonsparadise, Paris

“...talent means nothing, while experience, acquired in humility and with hard work, means everything.”

Süskind, Patrick. Perfume : the Story of a Murderer. New York :A.A. Knopf, 1986.

Photohraphy by Zali Albertiri

Solstiss Purple/Metallic Silk Lace

Cost/m: $150

Source: Textile and Lace Imports

Width: 150cm

Weight: ~100gsm

Care Instructions: Wash in basin using cold water, add light soap/detergent, use towel to absorb excess water, hang dry - DO NOT MACHINE WASH

Principe Charcoal Flannel Wool Check

Italian mid grey/black checked 100% Wool Flannel

Width: 154cm

Weight: 220gsm

Cost/m: $89

Care Instructions: DRY CLEAN ONLY

Italian grey checked 80% wool 20% mohair coating

Cost/m: $89

Width: 150cm

Weight: 330gsm

Care Instructions: DRY CLEAN ONLY

Weave combed out at hem in order to achieve a ‘frayed’ look - creates interesting textured and movement

Photohraphy by Zali Albertiri

Photohraphy by Hailey Ludick

“It was good, really, that this external world still existed, if only as a place of refuge.”

Süskind, Patrick. Perfume : the Story of a Murderer. New York :A.A.

Doppio Crepe Ivory

Italian ivory 100% wool double crepe

Width: 145cm

Weight: 348gsm

Cost/m: $139

Care Instructions: DRY CLEAN ONLY

Professionally dyed in order to achieve ideal colour

Adele Dusty Pink Poplin

Dusty pink 100% cotton poplin

Width: 148cm

Weight: 100gsm

Cost/m: $35

Care Instructions: Light machine wash, delicates

Solstiss Purple/Metallic Silk Lace

Cost/m: $150

Source: Textile and Lace Imports

Width: 150cm

Weight: ~100gsm

Care Instructions: Wash in basin using cold water, add light soap/detergent, use towel to absorb excess water, hang - DO NOT MACHINE WASH

“Ignorance is the only possible happiness this world has to offer”

Photohraphy by Zali Albertiri

“Grenouille no longer wanted to go somewhere, but only to go away, away from human beings.”

Süskind, Patrick. Perfume : the Story of a Murderer. New York :A.A. Knopf, 1986.

Principe Charcoal Flannel Wool Check

Italian mid grey/black checked 100% Wool Flannel

Width: 154cm

Weight: 220gsm

Cost/m: $89

Care Instructions: DRY CLEAN ONLY

Up-cycled and repurposed vintage Aran sweaters, professionally handdyed

Source: Vintage clothing stores

The cry that followed his birth, the cry with which he had brought himself to people’s attention and his mother to the gallows, was not an instinctive cry for sympathy and love. That cry, emitted upon careful consideration, one might almost say upon mature consideration, was the newborn’s decision against love and nevertheless for life.

Under the circumstances, the latter was possible only without the former, and had the child demanded both, it would doubtless have abruptly come to a grisly end.

Süskind, Patrick. Perfume : the Story of a Murderer. New York :A.A. Knopf, 1986.

Photohraphy by Tyler Pace

Samuel Warren is a contemporary designer known for his bold, experimental silhouettes, generous textures, and luxurious fabrications.

Based out of Sydney, his designs are symbolic of his desire to explore more specialist construction techniques, expanding his understanding of professional garment construction practices. Furthermore, he prioritises the usage of sustainable materials, primarily responsibly sourced Merino Wool.

Drawing inspiration from literature, art, history, and cultural ephemera, Samuel approaches design as a form of intellectual exploration, infusing meaning and significance into each piece. As a designer, Samuel represents an obsession with perfection, seeking to embrace the roadless-travelled regarding conceptualisation and garment construction methods.