ESTABL
IS H ED 19
73
WE KNOW FOOD.
410 W 18th St (605) 339-9506 Sioux Falls, SD 57104 www.coopnaturalfoods.com
Cooperative, passionate and knowledgeable.
PUBLICATION DETAILS September/October 2014
PUBLISHER
Wholesome Magazine, LLC P.O. Box 87967 Sioux Falls, SD 57109 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Shayla Ebsen (605) 610-8034 shayla@wholesomemag.com PHOTOGRAPHER UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ARTICLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY:
AC ELLIS, INC. Cory Ann Ellis (605) 610-9770 acellis@mac.com CONTRIBUTORS Marcella Prokop Kathleen Rykhus HOW TO REACH US WITH STORY IDEAS CONTACT:
contribute@wholesomemag.com TO ADVERTISE CONTACT:
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Š2014 Wholesome Magazine, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any way without written permission from the publisher. Independently published.
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Our First Year in Review One year ago, we released the first issue of Wholesome. It has been a whirlwind of a year, but also an enriching one. With each issue of Wholesome that we have released, we’ve built connections with local growers, chefs, home cooks and others involved in the South Dakota food scene. We have gained insight on what it takes to start and grow a CSA, the demands and stress on local chefs, and the important role that food plays in our everyday lives. We hope that you have enjoyed the magazine’s first six issues and that Wholesome has helped you to build connections with others in your community, whether by visiting a certain local restaurant for the first time or by preparing a few of our recipes for your friends and family. We also hope that the magazine is bringing increased awareness to the importance of food and how it can be used to build those connections with others. As always, we welcome your feedback on how you think we’re doing and encourage you to share any ideas on how we can continue to improve Wholesome. If you have story ideas or would just like to say hi, please email me at shayla@wholesomemag.com. We appreciate your support over the last year. Without you, Wholesome wouldn’t exist.
Shayla Ebsen EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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ON THE COVER: The Pheasant Restaurant
has long been a staple in the Brookings community. But it’s now making a new name for itself with its housemade, signature selections such as artisan ice cream.
Contact me today and let's find your dream home. FEATURES
6 A TIMELESS DESIGN Four years ago, Molly Langley remodeled her kitchen to match the historic style of her McKennan Park home.
18 EATING IN THE RAW The raw foods lifestyle is growing in SD and has many stepping away from the stovetop and toward the cutting board.
28 ALL IN THE FAMILY The Pheasant Restaurant in Brookings has been run by the same family for three generations and has become a staple in the community. Learn more about their offerings.
38 BREWING A BUSINESS As more consumers seek locally made craft beers, craft breweries are popping up across SD to meet the demand.
IN EVERY ISSUE
4 15 22 31 39 48 62
IN THE KITCHEN FOOD, NATURALLY DINING OUT FOOD HERITAGE LOCALLY GROWN SEASONAL RECIPES MARKETPLACE
Cindy Oyen ABR, CRS, GRI, SRES, SRS Broker Associate (605) 359-5436 SiouxFallsHomeSource.com
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In the Kitchen
adding space and style Join us as we explore the kitchen of Sioux Falls homeowner Molly Langley. Her kitchen renovations brought the function she wanted and maintained the home’s historic style, with a few added modern touches. Also, learn how to properly prepare the various cuts of pork and stock the kitchen with the best ingredients to pair with pork this fall.
homemade dog biscuits
recipe by shop dog boutique of sioux falls 1 1/2 cups oat flour 1 1/2 cups brown rice flour 1, 6 oz. can tomato paste 1/2 cup fresh mozzarella, finely chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried basil 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1 egg 1/2 cup water
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly until a dough forms. Roll out on lightly floured surface to 1/4 inch thickness. Use a cookie cutter to cut out shapes.
3. Place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack. 4. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
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A Timeless Design WORDS BY Shayla Ebsen PHOTOS BY Cory Ann Ellis
Four years ago, Molly Langley decided to start the kitchen remodel she had been dreaming about for her McKennan Park home in Sioux Falls. She worked with a designer and contractor to redesign the space and the end result was a stylish kitchen that fit the home’s era while also providing the function she needed. wholesomemag.com | 7
IN THE KITCHEN A Timeless Design
M
olly Langley needed a kitchen that could keep pace with her dinner parties and her love of cooking. The exhaust fan over her oven didn’t do the job it was supposed to do, the kitchen’s layout didn’t match her cooking style, and its modern design, with white cabinets and formica countertops, didn’t match her historic McKennan Park home in Sioux Falls. So, four years ago, she hired a designer and a contractor and started a four month renovation. “Hire a designer. I can’t emphasize the importance of that enough,” she says. “A kitchen designer is money well spent because designers know the pitfalls of projects like this. Designers know where to spend the money and where to save it and they can help steer you away from decisions you may regret when the project is done.” Langley says she started the project by compiling photos of her dream kitchen and by gathering ideas from other kitchens that she liked. “I brought ideas of our dream kitchen to our designer, and then we had to correct the dream,” she explains. While she had specific ideas of what she did and didn’t want included in the project, Langley says the planning process included a lot of give and take with the designer and with others involved in the project. For example, she had to sacrifice the fan that she originally planned to have installed because, to provide the proper airflow, the fan’s installation would have required them to drill through the home’s basement granite. Certain features, like the wall colors, had
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already been pre-determined for her by the home’s previous owners. “It’s a custom color. I always joke that I have to pay $3 more per gallon for paint every time I paint anything, but the color was already everywhere in this house,” she explains. “I couldn’t go with another color in the kitchen and have it look like it fit.” As for the other decisions, Langley says she stood her ground on the features that she thought were most important to include in the new kitchen, but also relied on the expertise of the kitchen professionals she hired. “Surround yourself with calm contractors and others who can spell things out for you as you go along because there will be discoveries and decisions to make,” says Langley. “You also need to have a realistic idea of the cost and that can be difficult, particularly in an older home like this where there are surprises in the walls.” After the remodeling plans were set, the project began and it involved gutting the kitchen to the studs to rebuild it following the new design. Langley says she wasn’t prepared for how disruptive the work would be to their everyday lives, especially since she and her husband typically prepared and ate three meals each day in the house. “One thing I would do differently is that I would move out of the house during the remodel,” she says. “Bathroom remodels and other projects aren’t quite as impactful on your life because you can adapt. But our kitchen is the central space of our house and not being able to use it for four months was upsetting.” Although adapting her lifestyle during the renovation was difficult, she says the end result
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attention to detail As is the case with most projects, a successful kitchen remodel is achieved through attention to detail. From the cabinet heights to the wall colors, every detail of Molly Langley’s kitchen was carefully mapped out to create the end result of a cohesive, wholesomemag.com | 11 inviting space.
IN THE KITCHEN A Timeless Design
was well worth the hassles. The new galley kitchen is warm and inviting and its features make the space look twice as big. “Design is everything in how big a kitchen feels,” she says. “As far as the design of this kitchen and how it turned out, I wouldn’t do one thing differently. That’s a pretty amazing thing to say too.” The new kitchen creates a natural flow from the dining room and the custom cabinets, which also creatively cover Langley’s appliances, fit seamlessly in style with the rest of the house. “The biggest success of the project is that it resulted in a functional kitchen. I’m thrilled that it looks as good as it does but, if it didn’t provide the functionality, it would have been a failure. We live here, we cook here, we entertain here,
and so we need that functionality,” she explains. The renovation was finished just before Thanksgiving and Langley says she was thrilled to have achieved her goal of installing a sink in which she could thaw a turkey. She has hosted many dinner parties since that Thanksgiving and continues to be impressed with the kitchen’s flow and functionality, including a movable island that often doubles as a bar or appetizer station. “I’m glad I did it. I really am. I’m proud of the kitchen. It was a labor of love and it worked out really well. I feel like we’ve achieved a timeless space and I’ve had friends whose opinions I value tell me the same. It fits the era of this house.”
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For the Love of Pork There is much more to love about pork than bacon (although bacon is quite delicious). Autumn is the perfect season to savor the flavors of pork and to learn how to prepare the various cuts of pork in new ways. Learn cooking tips for the various cuts of porks, which ingredients to pair with pork and more.
GROUND PORK Try pork in a new way this autumn, - ground! The average lean-fat ratio of ground pork is 70 percent lean and 30 percent fat. Popular meals from ground pork include meatballs, pork sloppy joes and grilled pork patties.
LOIN ROAST Bring some comfort to the upcoming autumn evenings by roasting or grilling pork loin. The loin roast comes from the area of the pig between the shoulder and the beginning of the leg and is sold either bone-in or deboned. Ingredients to consider pairing with pork loin include cilantro, ginger, mustard, rosemary or sage.
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RIBS Pork ribs can easily be prepared in several ways, but the most popular methods are typically baked or grilled. Top ingredient pairings for ribs are chili powder, honey, salt, garlic and molassess. Ribs make for a hearty autumn supper, especially when grilled and served with sweet corn and beans.
BACON Bacon isn’t just for breakfast anymore. It now commonly makes a subtle appearance in desserts, such as sprinkled on top of cupcake frosting. Top ingredient pairings for bacon include lettuce, tomatoes, vinegar, onions and eggs.
HAM
PORK CHOPS Pork chops are the most popular cut from the pork loin. Popular methods for preparing pork chops are breaded and sauted on the stove or grilled. Delicious ingredient pairing options for pork chops are apples, sage, mustard, sugar and vinegar.
You don’t have to wait until the holidays to enjoy ham. Cured ham is leg meat that has been dry- or wet-cured. The classic way to enjoy this popular cut of pork is baking. Ingredients that pair well with ham include Dijon mustard, sugar, wine, potatoes and honey. Cheese is also a great pairing with ham and a grilled ham and cheese sandwich is a favorite autumn lunch and is a great use of leftover ham.
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want to easily save recipes from each issue of wholesome? Our website now includes a ‘recipes’ section that contains all recipes from each issue of Wholesome. Easily download, print, and save the recipes you love.
wholesomemag.com/recipes
Food, Naturally
the raw food journey Ever thought about adding more raw foods to your diet or are you thinking about switching completely to eating raw foods? Learn more about the lifestyle in our raw foods feature and explore the included raw foods recipes.
finding balance A raw foods diet is easy for some people to adopt. For others, not so much. Learn tips for incorporating more raw foods into your diet and hear from health professionals on easy changes to make when you aren’t quite ready for the complete 18 | wholesomemag.com switch to eating in the raw.
Eating in the Raw WORDS BY Kathleen Rykhus PHOTOS BY Cory Ann Ellis
Laurie Moritz found raw foods four years ago. A marathon runner, she was looking for a nutrient-dense diet that would provide clean burning fuel for her workouts and still allow her to indulge in the occasional decadent dessert. “I was looking for a way to enjoy the sweet things in life without the sugar crash and undoing all of my exercise efforts,� says Moritz.
FOOD, NATURALLY Eating in the Raw
After discovering the benefits of raw foods, Moritz says she switched her diet to include eating about 75 percent of her foods raw. She also began sharing her success and love of the lifestyle with others by creating and selling homemade raw goodies. The passion has since turned into a business called Raw Sweet Joy and Moritz sells the goods locally around Cedar Rapids, Iowa and also ships them all over the country. “I was inspired by the joy people experience when tasting desserts and treats that are free of trans fats, refined sugars, and common allergens like wheat, soy and dairy,” says Moritz. “People think that a raw foods diet is all carrot sticks and traditional salads, but it’s so much more than that. It’s anything but boring.” The diets of raw foodists like Moritz are typically centered on foods that are vegan, organic and grown as locally as possible. Typical ingredients include fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds and sprouted grains. To be considered raw, foods are typically not heated to more than 115 degrees. The driving belief behind this lifestyle is that nutrients and enzymes are destroyed by cooking food and that humans are not meant to consume cooked food—only raw, living foods contain the nutrition we need to fuel our bodies. As Moritz points out, one obstacle to incorporating a raw foods lifestyle is overcoming the perception that people are being restricted from eating the foods they grew up with and think they need. But, she and other raw foods agree that the quest for health and
nutritional enlightenment must begin with a shift in focus away from viewing the raw foods lifestyle as restrictive. It can instead be viewed as an opportunity to explore the variety of ways that food can be prepared to bring out flavor, create interesting textures, and delight the senses while retaining nutrients. As the raw foods lifestyle has taken hold across the country, cooks and chefs are creating interesting (and delicious) remakes of traditional favorites. Chocolate cake in the raw foods scene is reinvented with dates, nuts, cocoa powder and coconut oil. Pizza becomes marinara sauce spread over a flatbread of portabella mushrooms and topped with pine nuts. The raw foods lifestyle shares similar core beliefs with other diets like the paleo lifestyle, which also places importance on eating more minimally processed foods. For those who aren’t ready to make a complete switch to raw foods, nutrition professionals such as Avera/Hy-Vee Dietitian Janine Albers suggest choosing natural foods over processed alternatives whenever possible. For instance, Albers recommends keeping temperature and the amount of added liquid to a minimum to maintain the highest nutritional value of a food. She suggests steaming as a great way to prepare cooked vegetables and retain their nutrients. If you don’t have a steamer, you can create a steam by bringing 1/2 inch of water in a pan to a boil, add vegetables and cook just until crisp-tender. Albers says minimizing cooking times is
“People think that a raw foods diet is all carrot sticks and traditional salads, but it’s so much more than that. It’s anything but boring.”
FOOD, NATURALLY Eating in the Raw
also important and that many people simply overcook their food. Changing food as little as possible from its original state not only retains the nutrient value, it also preserves texture and flavor, especially in vegetables. “Studies have shown that increasing the overall amount of vegetables in your diet decreases risk for cancer. Some nutrients, like carotenoids and lycopene are actually better absorbed when properly cooked, so it is important to learn how to prepare vegetables in a variety of ways, and to be willing to do so a regular basis.” Whitney Freeman, a Sioux Falls health coach, also works with people to create small, sustainable changes in diet and lifestyle that involve attitude as well as eating habits. “It’s about gaining that confidence in cooking where you can walk into the kitchen and say I’m going to make something fast and healthy with the fresh ingredients I have on hand,” she says. This approach conquers the intimidation
many people face regarding healthy eating more effectively than restrictive diets, drastic changes, and meticulous meal planning. It also gets people thinking about real food. “Real fruits and vegetables can be utilized by the body for a benefit that far exceeds that heavily processed, prepackaged diet snack bar,” says Freeman. Albers and Freeman agree with Moritz that foods closer to their whole state are preferable because they retain all of a food’s nutrients in their natural arrangement and this brings the biggest health benefit. By starting with food in its whole state, and focusing on simple, gentle preparation methods, home cooks put real nutrition on the table and keep more of the processed foodstuffs out of their bodies. Learning about and incorporating raw foods recipes and techniques into your kitchen can be a way to add more fresh, minimally processed foods in your diet and enjoy the bounty of the late summer season.
raw chocolate cake with fudgey frosting
recipe by kathleen rykhus PREP: 20 min SERVES: 4
cake
1 cup raw walnuts 1 cup medjool dates, pitted Dash of sea salt
frosting
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons raw agave nectar 1/2 cup extra virgin coconut oil 1 tablespoon raw cacao or cocoa powder
1.
For the cake: Blend walnuts, dates and salt in food processor until just mixed. The ‘batter’ will be loose and malleable. Put the mixture on round plate and mold with fingers into a round cake shape that is about 3/4 inch tall. Dip a fork in coconut oil and poke several 1/4 inch deep holes into the top of the cake.
2. For the frosting: Place coconut oil in a double boiler and
heat until just melted. Remove from heat immediately. Pour in agave nectar and add cacao powder. Stir until mixed.
3. Place the frosting in the freezer for 30-45 minutes, scraping
sides and stirring occasionally until mixture becomes a frosting like texture that you can spread on the cake batter.
4. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of frosting mix onto the cake. The
melted frosting mix will fill the small holes in the cake and will give the cake a great consistency.
5. Top with fresh or thawed frozen fruit like cherries or strawberries.
6. Refrigerate at least 4 hours until frosting has set. Cut with a warmed sharp knife.
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raw sundried tomato marinara sauce with portabella pizza recipe by kathleen rykhus PREP: 20 min SERVES: 6
1, 3 1/2 oz package sundried tomato halves, soaked in 1 cup olive oil for 8 hours, keep at least 1/4 cup of the oil 3 very ripe vine-on tomatoes 2 cloves garlic 4 very ripe strawberries 1/4 cup raisins, soaked in a small amount of water for 2-4 hours 1/8 cup diced portabella mushroom stems
1/4 cup fresh basil 1/2 teaspoon oregano 1 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 cup pine nuts 4-8 portabella mushroom tops, stems removed
1.
Soak sundried tomatoes and raisins overnight, stirring occasionally. Drain the tomatoes and keep the oil. Drain raisins and discard the water.
2. Chop tomatoes, strawberries and garlic. Put sundried tomatoes, vine-on tomatoes, garlic, strawberries, raisins,
mushroom stems, basil, oregano and sea salt into food processor; blend. While blending, pour in olive oil until ingredients are smooth. Mixture will be a thick consistency, somewhere between a sauce and a dip. Keep blending and add more oil to achieve a thinner consistency.
3. The portabella tops will act as your pizza dough and the pine nuts on top is your cheese. You may leave the mushrooms raw and top with sauce or gently grill the mushrooms, top with sauce and pine nuts and serve. wholesomemag.com | 25
Dining Out
a family’s passion for food Though it has undergone many changes over the years, The Pheasant Restaurant in Brookings has been owned and run by the same family for three generations. We chatted with the family’s 1st and 3rd generations of managers and explore the latest offerings, including housemade ice cream.
605.610.9770
ACELLIS.COM
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All in the Family WORDS BY Shayla Ebsen PHOTOS BY Cory Ann Ellis
Walk into the Pheasant Restaurant and Lounge on a Monday night, and you’ll likely hear live music. Look around and you’ll see families with kids, college students, construction workers, business owners, bankers, farmers and a blend of other patrons. It’s this variety, says General Manager and Head Chef Michael Johnson, which makes the Pheasant so important to the community. “One of the things that has always been endearing to me about the Pheasant is that you can’t really pin down a specific demographic as our regular clientele because we’ve been here for so long. It really is like a family, as cliché as that
DINING OUT All in the Family
may sound,” he says. Johnson has worked at the Pheasant on and off since he was nine years old, when he would help wash dishes, clear tables and complete other small tasks. His grandparents, Ron and Georgiana Olson, purchased the Pheasant in 1966 and it has remained in the family ever since. Johnson returned to the restaurant nine years ago after a brief hiatus and is the family’s third generation to run the establishment. “Michael grew up with the business, so he knew what he was getting himself into,” jokes Georgiana. “Honestly, I never imagined that the restaurant would stay in the family for three generations, but that strength of family, truly caring for our customers and keeping up with the changing tastes and times are what have kept the Pheasant going.” Most of the restaurant’s success must also be attributed to the staff, says Georgiana. “We wouldn’t be able to do even half the things that we’ve done without our employees. We are so lucky to have always had passionate employees who care about our restaurant, our products and our customers.” The Pheasant has picked up a lot of new customers over the years, but some of the most loyal have been coming since Johnson’s grandparents first took over the place. Management has kept a few classics on the menu—liver and onions as well as the old caféstyle hot roast beef sandwich on homemade white milk bread with mashed potatoes and gravy—as a testament to their most loyal customers. Many other things, though, have changed. “A lot of what we’ve done lately has involved resurrecting our authentic specialties, but also
realizing that there’s room for local culinary tradition to incorporate a more new American approach to food,” explains Johnson. This new American approach includes a menu that blends classic South Dakota favorites like authentic lamb chislic and bison burgers with dishes that push the envelope for the South Dakota town. One envelope pusher on the menu is the PB & JJ burger—Cajun-seasoned with melted jalapeño-jack cheese, mild jalapeño jelly, and creamy peanut butter on a sourdough bun. Other popular menu selections include the pheasant salad lettuce wraps, wild-caught walleye and the bison ribeye. Chris Knutson, the Pheasant’s kitchen manager, orders the ingredients for the restaurant’s various dishes. “We try to source our food as fresh as possible and as locally as possible. We make sure that everything is as good as it can be or we send it back,” says Knutson. “This commitment to freshness makes a big difference in the flavor of the food and the consistency of it.” Knutson’s favorite menu item is the duck wings, but he says the walleye is pretty good too. “Working here gives me a lot of freedom to do what I want in the kitchen. If the kitchen staff wants to try something new, we can,” says Knutson. “We have the freedom to experiment, try new dishes and have fun with food and all of the cooks get to provide input. That’s just not allowed at many other restaurants.” Johnson says he’s noticing a shift in South Dakota’s restaurant culture and in the public’s interest of learning about and consuming quality foods. These things, he says, have allowed his staff to more easily source high quality and local ingredients.
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a sense of community The Pheasant Restaurant in Brookings isn’t just about food, it’s also about community. The restaurant’s managers support local artists and producers whenever possible - often lining the walls with local artwork and crafting their menu selections 32 |locally-sourced wholesomemag.com with ingredients.
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DINING OUT All in the Family
“This is an exciting time for communities in South Dakota. There’s a revival brewing in which communities are reclaiming their history and their true identities and are running with it. And, as the cultural influence in our communities steadily becomes more diversified, that just adds a whole new layer,” explains Johnson. “Embracing that diversity and blending it with our history is a lot more interesting than impersonating the commercial homogeneity that saturates our greater culture.” Johnson’s passion for diversity and his support of local producers is displayed throughout the Pheasant. On the walls hang artwork created by local artists—the Pheasant donates space for the pieces. Local, live music is a mainstay throughout the year, and the restaurant’s retail space is filled with quality wines, olive oils, balsamic vinegars, bread and other selections. They added the retail space to fill a local demand for hand-selected wines and to supply the public with and provide education about quality olive oils. “I love how the Pheasant can be the place where all of these great products and items from growers, producers, artists and artisans in our area come together and become a valuable and authentic eastern South Dakota experience.” If you want to fully appreciate the experience, says Johnson, don’t just stop in for a quick meal. Bring a few friends for supper, place your order, grab a few drinks and check out the wine cellar and olive oils while the staff prepares your meal. And don’t leave without trying Trevor’s handmade, artisan ice cream. Trevor Clements is the Pheasant’s assistant manager and house ice cream artisan. He started making ice cream for the restaurant’s
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guests about six years ago and quickly grew a loyal following. “Honestly, it’s hard to keep up with the demand. At certain times, freezing enough ice cream for the restaurant is almost an overwhelming process,” says Clements. “I love it though. Starting the ice cream venture was when my love for food clicked. It made me realize that working in the food world is something I can do, not just as a small passion, but as a career.” One glance at the list of ice cream flavors, many custard-based, that Clements has made— dolce de leche, coffee ice cream (using locallyroasted Cherry Bean coffee), dark chocolate chipotle, firecracker, candied bacon, spiced pear, and on—and his passion for the craft becomes clear. “I like taking familiar flavors and twisting them to make something fun, funky and incredible with high quality ingredients,” explains Clements. “But, I kind of jumped into the venture by creating all of those funky flavors. Now I want to go back and do some classic, simple and traditional ice creams.” Whether speaking of the food they create or the space they’ve expanded to share with local artists and artisans, it’s clear that the restaurant’s staff members are happy with where things are, and where they’re going. “I love being in Brookings and the fertile ground it provides for incredible little ideas like ours to grow,” says Clements. “We’re really motivated by a passion for food, the love of our community and dedication to promoting local culture,” says Johnson. “The Pheasant is a part of this community’s history and it’s a privilege to be a part of that.”
Food Heritage
the business of brewing A love for craft beer has captured the palates of beer drinkers in South Dakota and craft brewers on both sides of the state are answering the call. Learn more about this craft, raise a pint to the tradition and follow along on the journey of several South Dakota brewmasters.
carrot cake cookies with stout frosting
recipe by marcella prokop
cookies
8 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 cup packed brown sugar 1/4 cup sugar 1 large egg yolk 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt Dash of nutmeg 1 cup rolled oats 3/4 cup grated carrots 1 cup raisins (soak in water or beer ahead of time to soften; drain liquid before adding to dough)
frosting
16 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 5-6 cups powdered sugar, sifted 6-8 tablespoons stout, poured and settled before you measure 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste (or vanilla extract)
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk butter, sugars and egg yolk. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk flour, spices and salt. Add flour mixture to
butter mixture. Stir until combined. Mix in carrots, oats and raisins. The dough will feel like a thick batter.
4. Drop tablespoons of dough on cookie sheet about 2 inches apart. 5. Bake until edges are firm, rotating the pan to bake evenly, about 15
minutes, depending on oven. Let cool completely before frosting.
6. For the frosting: Whisk the ingredients for the stout frosting until well blended and firm. Spread over the cooled cookies.
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Brewing a Business WORDS BY Marcella Prokop PHOTOS BY Cory Ann Ellis
As consumer love and demand for craft beer grows stronger across the state, craft brewers are answering the call by creating original brews, often with the South Dakota ingredients that surround them. Bitter Esters Brewhouse in Custer and Wooden Legs Brewery in Brookings are just two of the several craft breweries currently experiencing success in this growing industry. 38 | wholesomemag.com
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FOOD HERITAGE Brewing a Business
I
n a small basement under Highway 16 A in Custer, South Dakota, a young, bearded man in a red long-sleeved shirt bends over a microscope. He fiddles with a knob for a second or two, pushes a glass slide in place and looks again. When he finds what he’s looking for, he offers the strip to an onlooker and explains. “You see that dusting on there? That’s what you’re looking for. That’s the yeast.” Although Landon Swanson has a degree in biology from South Dakota State University, he’s not a biologist or a doctor. He’s one of a handful of craft brewers bringing the alchemy of beer brewing to the state. His small lab is just a work bench with a microscope, several glass slides, cleaning solutions, vials and bottles tucked into the corner of the Bitter Esters Brewhouse basement. Like many of the craft brewers in the state—and craft beer aficionados who have been drinking out-of-state beer for years, Swanson has learned to work with what’s available—both in terms of space and ingredients. He has been brewing in this capacity for three years, since Bitter Esters owner Nancy Gellerman, his thenboss at Wild Sage Grille in Sioux Falls decided to get into the business. “We started out in my garage, just trying recipes,” she says. “I give all credit to Landon for making it successful. I just had the building, some ideas and the encouragement.” Although Nancy doesn’t call herself a brewer, as owner and chef at Wild Sage Grille in Sioux Falls she does have the creative mind one needs to be successful in any area of culinary or beverage craft. Landon had been working at Wild Sage in Sioux Falls before moving to Custer, but
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in 2010, when they had been brewing in Nancy’s garage for a while, they decided to see if they could do more with the brewing and bring more to the atmosphere in Custer, a town of roughly 2000 people. The dream of bringing craft food and craft beer to Custer has taken some time, and some patience, especially with South Dakota’s inefficient craft beer legislation, but today, the brewery sits next to Wild Sage, and the atmosphere in the brewery is just as warm and welcoming as that of the restaurant. “You see just as many children in there as you see adults,” Nancy says, and with the Black Hills and Mount Rushmore just 20 minutes away, the brewery recognizes the fact that vacationing families are just as likely to step into Bitter Esters as Sage Creek. One of the brews on the menu even celebrates this: the Testy Tourist Imperial IPA is “bound to bring you some peace and tranquility.” On the warm, June day that Landon points out the yeast in his underground lab, the Bitter Esters brewery and its small kitchen are busy dishing up appetizers, entrees, and, of course, beer, to regulars and tourists alike. One dish, the homemade pizza, incorporates some of the ingredients that go into the beer. Instead of water, the pizza dough gets some wort, which gives the beards a slight zing of beer-flavored goodness. This ability to use an ingredient as many times as possible is something the Bitter Esters crew is proud of, and it fits in perfectly with the hardy landscape and heritage of the surrounding area. Early settlers to the area had to do the same, and today Swanson says this innovative spirit is just as much a part of brewing as is the process behind it.
FOOD HERITAGE Brewing a Business
“Creating a beer is a strange, scientific process,” he says. “The fun part, where we get to experiment, is when I have a sort of epiphany beer. You know, when I’m just sitting in my car or just walking around and I see a flower, or something comes to me and it just gives me an idea.” He credits Nancy’s uncle with one of the best epiphany beers he’s ever brewed. He tried the uncle’s carrot cake, thought, “I can make that into a beer,” and added some honey, carrots, sugar and toasted coconut to a wheat-based beer. “It just made this downright fantastic beer. That was a special surprise.” Like any business owner with a sense of his customer base, Swanson balances every funky beer with a few regular beers that newbies can experiment with as they develop their palates for craft beers. By starting them off with something close to what they currently drink, Swanson eases people into his world. “People who come here like beer and they drink a ton of it, but they maybe didn’t know that beer could be like this. As they drink more of it, they progress through other flavors or styles,” he says. “The biggest thing is you have to be the face of craft beer for the state because if people taste your beer and you don’t do it well, that hurts everyone else.” In a state with more grains and livestock than people, it might seem strange that there is more than one craft brewery. In reality, though, there are at least 10 functioning craft breweries spanning the state, and more in the works. One
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impediment that some small breweries face is not being able to distribute their beer on their own. Another is that small breweries just don’t have the capacity to meet public demand, says Chad Koopsma of Global Distributing. Take Bitter Esters, for instance. If Swanson brews beer in Custer, he must sell it to his distributor, who then picks up the beer, takes it to Rapid City, checks it in, and then returns it to Custer, where it is sold to Sage Creek Grille next door. If Gellerman wanted to sell carrot cake beer or anything else coming from Bitter Esters, she’d have to purchase her beer from the distributor and then sell it at her restaurant in Sioux Falls. This isn’t efficient for anyone— distributor or brewer. “Our profit margins are incredibly small,” Koospma says. “To service a place like HyVee, or these larger stores that carry a product, you might have to be in there 5 or 6 times a week.” Add marketing, labels, beer pulls, and gas, and the costs go up. But this exchange is the only way to work in South Dakota—one of a handful of states that doesn’t let small brewers distribute what they make. So this business practice isn’t very effective for a small brewer like Bitter Esters, which has a very small output—just 65 gallons at a time. But Swanson, who is president of the South Dakota Craft Brewers Guild, says he and other members of the Guild are working to educate the public about craft beer and better business practices to help grow the industry in the state. If brewing beer is the fun part, then legislation and community outreach become the real
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FOOD HERITAGE Brewing a Business
“work” for many small brewers, as experienced by Seth Koch and Brant Mathiason of Wooden Legs Brewing Co. in Brookings. Although the current state of affairs isn’t necessarily great for larger breweries either, a larger outfit like Wooden Legs can make enough ale to keep up with demand and need a distributor. In fact, Koch, says that having a distributor is actually really helpful. “I don’t have time to load up a Jeep and service Rapid City, Aberdeen and Brookings at the same time,” he says. “So a distributor is necessary. There could be some flexibility in when a distributor is needed, especially for the smaller breweries, but the need can’t just be dismissed.” Seth Koch and Brant Mathiason (a third partner, Steven Kreeger, lives in Massachusetts) can brew 95 gallons at a time in the old American Legion building they rehabbed to be a brewery and restaurant. But they often brew more than that, and Koch says that they’ve made 29 different flavors in 52 weeks in the past. One of their most successful flavors was the Sanderson garden strawberry wheat ale. Following it was a coconut stout—none of your average Busch Lite or Michelob flavors here. The pub focuses on British and American ales, much like Bitter Esters; also like Bitter Esters, they use their brews in many of their foods. But unlike the warm reception Swanson and his crew got in Custer, Mathiason says their team had to prove to Brookings that they weren’t going to be just another place for college kids to get wasted. “A misconception about microbreweries and microbrews is that a microbrewery is just a place to get people drunk on high-alcohol content beers,” he says. “Craft brewing is still relatively
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new in Brookings, and we had to get a lot of people in the city on board with what we’re trying to do.” This meant a lot of education, public speaking and community awareness went into every choice they made as they grew their business. Since they began brewing in 2013, the Wooden Legs team has worked with entrepreneurial students, donated beer to various fundraisers and spent time educating the public about the wide world of craft beer. And they’re still deliberately working to promote craft beer and funky, new flavors. “We want to show people that downtown Brookings is not just a place for nickel shots and hard alcohol, but an experience where you can sit down and have a conversation over beer,” says Koch. To that end, he calls his beers session beers—the kind of brew one can have during a drinking session and not necessarily get fall-down drunk. Most of the beers are in the 5 percent alcohol by volume range, although a few of the heavier ones can creep up to an 8.5 or 8.6. On a cool evening at the beginning of summer, Mathiason and Koch are toasting their success in Sioux Falls, at the city’s only microbrewery: Monk’s. Amanda and Mat Tougas of Sioux Falls are at Monk’s on the same night, sipping what’s left of the last 5 gallons of strawberry ale. The couple lived in Denver before moving to Sioux Falls, and Amanda says she’s excited to try any of the new brews that come through Monk’s on a regular basis. “I’m not a dark beer drinker,” she adds, “so this one fits into my repertoire. I taste the strawberry and it has a caramel undertone. I’d drink it again, except they keep running out of it.”
Locally Grown
growing herbs, making tea Fall evenings in South Dakota are prime occasions to enjoy a cup of hot tea. Deer Creek Herbs and Teas offers a range of locally grown herbs and tea blends to stock your shelves for the approach of cool weather.
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growing fragrance, flavor WORDS BY Shayla Ebsen PHOTOS BY Cory Ann Ellis
Deer Creek Herbs and Teas, located just east of Brookings, is owned by Susan Randall and her husand Mark Sanderson. The business grew out of the couple’s love of fresh herbs and their desire to find a hobby that would keep them active and engaged during retirement.
LOCALLY GROWN Growing Fragrance, Flavor
S
usan Randall and her husband Mark Sanderson retired from their successful careers in Sioux Falls. And then they started a business. Their venture, Deer Creek Herbs and Teas, is in its second year and blossomed from Randall’s love of growing herbs in her personal garden. “We’ve always had herbs in our Sioux Falls garden, what I call a kitchen garden of herbs. I always loved the warm season when I could harvest them fresh and I was always dismayed when winter came and the fresh herbs weren’t there.” Apart from her love of growing and using fresh herbs, Randall says she had dreamed of starting a business for several years. “This just seemed like the time and there was also definitely some intent behind it. We’re growing older and we wanted to find something that would keep us physically active, something we had to do,” says Randall. “It stretches us, particularly the picking days, but it’s never a hardship that undoes us. It just keeps us vibrant.” They got serious about the venture after attending a Dakota Rural Action Farm Beginnings course in support of their son, who was thinking of starting a business of his own. “The course instructors encourage you to bring your family because they see that as whole farm planning and of thinking about your lifestyle as important components for success. So, we started attending the courses in support of our son.”
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But, as the course was winding down, their son was no longer able to attend and they instead found themselves dreaming up a business plan to use the plot of land they owned just east of Brookings. “At that time, our idea was to grow flowers and herbs on part of an acre that just had grass and was being mown for hay. We thought it would be a good place for an urban flower crop,” explains Randall. “So, we put the business plan together with that in mind, presented it at the Farm Beginnings class, and that’s what sold us on the idea of really doing this.” That’s when they retired and took one year to lay the groundwork for the business. In addition to the Farm Beginnings course, they took several mini-courses through the SDSU Extension Service, including courses on labeling product and selling items at farmers markets. “My original plan was to sell flowers and herbs, but I did some experimenting in that first year of planning and quickly discovered that flowers were a romantic idea but not a viable one. So, we shelved that and just did herbs. That was the smarter route,” explains Randall. Randall and Sanderson don’t have professional training in horticulture but both were raised in farm families. “We both brought basic instincts about growing things because our families were tied to the land. We had that deep foundation and, honestly, I’m amazed at how much we had both picked up through that early role modeling,” says Randall. “By guess and by gosh, we found
“Herbs are wonderful. They take good food and elevate it to an almost nirvana-like experience.�
LOCALLY GROWN Growing Fragrance, Flavor
our way through the growing of things.” Deer Creek is now in its second year of selling. Randall and Sanderson say they’re both happy with the business’s progress and that, overall, they’ve been hitting their benchmarks. “Of course, there are many things we’ve learned as we’ve gone along. For example, this year we’re learning that we planted too much of some things and not enough of others. We have too much onion chives that will need to be replaced with something else next year,” says Sanderson. Planting was delayed a bit this season because of unusually cold weather in May, but Randall says she’s happy with their current crop and they have yet to battle any major issues, just a few minor ones. Like grasshoppers, and weeds. “Weeds are a never ending challenge. But, thankfully, I love to find and pick them,” says Sanderson. “Now we just need to find a solution for those brown hoppers that seem to love our most popular herbs.” This time of year, Randall says their top selling herbs are basil and cilantro. Soon, dill will be in demand as cucumbers come into harvest for pickling. Mint is always popular, as is parsley. “There is such a variety of preferences for taste of food. So, rather than suggesting this herb or that, I give our customers ideas about how herbs pair with food and how to use them. I then encourage customers to take a few options home, use them and see where their passions are for the various flavors and tastes.” With the approach of autumn, Randall says she expects to see more interest in their tea
blends and in their dried herbs. “Chamomile is a great autumn tea because it’s calming and soothing. It also has those lovely yellow bud blossoms. Our Lemon Medley tea is also a popular option for autumn and winter.” The Lemon Medley tea is a blend of lemon mint and lemon balm and features a strong, yet smooth, lemon flavor. Their current bestseller is TaraMint tea, which can be brewed as a hot or iced tea. It features a blend of chocolate mint and spearmint or peppermint (sometimes both). Sanderson and Randall live in Sioux Falls and commute to Deer Creek each week through the growing season to tend the crops and pick the selections they’ll be selling to vendors and at the Brookings and Falls Park Farmers Markets. They stay for a few days at a time and lodge in the small cabin they built, with the help of Sanderson’s family, several years ago. As a husband and wife business team, Randall says they have formed a strong partnership and that each brings unique strengths and skills to the venture. “We work quite well together. Of course, we grumble at each other at times, but we don’t walk around feeling wounded,” says Randall. “Often, there’s wisdom in truth with the other person’s grumblings.” “For us, Deer Creek is the perfect niche thing. We didn’t retire so that we could hire people and have to manage staff. But, if we really wanted to grow the business to the next level, we would have to do that. Right now, we’re focused on perfecting this as a two person operation and it’s going quite well.”
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Seasonal Recipes
celebrating autumn Autumn will soon fill the air, which means it’s time to dig out the stock pot and find your favorite fall recipes. We’ve included a few new favorites to add to your collection. Try our spiced pumpkin energy bars, caramel apple cheesecake and more.
spiced pumpkin energy bars PREP: 15 min SERVES: 6
1 cup oats 1/2 cup flaxseed meal 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut 1/3 cup raw pumpkin seeds 1/2 cup cranberries 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, optional
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon allspice 3/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 cup raw honey 1/2 cup pumpkin puree
1.
Combine the oats, flaxseed meal, coconut, pumpkin seeds, cranberries, walnuts, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and ginger in a large mixing bowl.
2. Add the pumpkin puree and honey to the mixing bowl. Stir until the mixture becomes clumpy and then continue mixing the ingredients using your hands.
3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 45 minutes. 4. Remove the bowl from the fridge and shape the mixture into individual balls. 5. Place the spiced pumpkin energy balls in a lidded container and refrigerate. They will keep for about one week.
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caramel apple cheesecake in jars
recipe by staci perry (random sweetness baking blog) PREP: 25 min COOK: 35 min TOTAL: 1 hr MAKES: 12, 4 oz jars
apples
1 1/2 cups peeled, cored, diced apples 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon apple brandy (Calvados), optional
crust
1 cup graham cracker crumbs 1 tablespoon white sugar 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1/4 cup pecan pieces 2 tablespoons butter, melted
filling
2, 8 ounce packages cream cheese, softened 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 eggs, lightly beaten, room temperature 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1 (11 oz bag) package caramels, unwrapped 1/4 cup evaporated milk
topping
1/4 cup chopped pecans Leftover caramel sauce from crust Dried apple chips (optional) 54 | wholesomemag.com
1.
Stir together diced apples, cinnamon, and apple brandy. Set aside to macerate.
2. Mix graham cracker crumbs, white sugar, brown sugar, pecans, and
melted butter. Drop a few tablespoons of crust into bottom of each jar. Press down lightly.
3. Set jars on a cookie sheet or bar pan and bake at 250째 for 5 minutes. Remove from oven.
4. Melt caramels and evaporated milk, stirring until creamy. Spoon a layer of warm caramel on top of each crust. Use extra caramel to drizzle on top before serving. 5.
Place softened cream cheese in the bowl of a mixer. Use paddle attachment to beat on medium-high speed until smooth, approximately 2 minutes. Turn mixer off and scrape sides of bowl down two times during the process.
6.
Add sugar and flour. Beat 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl. Pour in eggs and vanilla and beat 2 minutes on low speed, scraping down the sides a couple of times.
7. Gently fold in macerated apples. Scoop cheesecake batter into jars, leaving 1/2 inch from the top.
8. Bake jars on pan at 250째 for 30 minutes, or until centers are no longer jiggly. Turn oven off and keep door open. Let cheesecakes rest to room temperature. 9. Chill jars in refrigerator a few hours before sealing. 10. Before serving, warm up the leftover caramel sauce and drizzle into each jar. Sprinkle with pecan pieces and top with apple chips. Store sealed jars in refrigerator up to 5 days.
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chipotle lime steak stir-fry PREP: 20 min COOK: 50 min TOTAL: 1 hr 10 min SERVES: 4
1 cup quinoa 1 1/2 cups water 1/2 large yellow onion, chopped 1/2 red bell pepper, chopped 1 chipotle from a can of chipotles in adobo sauce 1 tablespoon of adobo sauce from the can of chipotles 2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1/2 cup water 1 large steak, cooked 1 cup frozen corn 1/2 red bell pepper, chopped 1/2 15 oz can black beans 1 cup light beer Salt and pepper to taste
1.
Bring the cup of water to boil in medium saucepan. Stir in the quinoa, reduce heat to low, cover the saucepan and let simmer for about 30 minutes or until the water is absorbed.
2. When the water is absorbed, remove the saucepan from heat, remove lid and fluff the quinoa with a fork. Set aside.
3. Prepare the chipotle lime stir-fry while the quinoa is cooking. 4. Place the onion, red bell pepper, garlic, lime juice, chipotle and adobo sauce and 1/4 cup water in a blender. Puree until the mixture is smooth.
5. 6.
Dump the chipotle lime sauce in a sautĂŠ pan and turn on heat to medium.
Cook the chipotle lime sauce on medium until the water is reduced and the sauce begins to brown, about 10 minutes. After the sauce is browned, add the beer, 1/4 cup water, corn, steak and 1/2 red bell pepper.
7. When the mixture begins to bubble, reduce heat to medium-low and cook an additional 5 minutes. 8. Add the black beans and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Salt and pepper the stir-fry to taste. Remove
from heat and serve over the cooked quinoa.
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blueberry pear crisp PREP: 15 min COOK: 45 min TOTAL: 1 hr SERVES: 6
filling
4 pears, cored, peeled and cut into chunks 1 pint blueberries 1/3 cup sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg 4 tablespoons water Pinch of salt
topping
1 cup walnuts, chopped 1 cup oat flour 1 1/4 cups old-fashioned oats 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon Pinch of salt 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Place the pears, blueberries, sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest,
cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg, water and salt in a large mixing bowl. Stir ingredients until the fruit is evenly coated. Set aside.
3. Combine the walnuts, oat flour, oats, sugar, cinnamon and salt in a large mixing bowl. Cube the butter and add to the mixing bowl. Using a pastry cutter, cut the butter in with the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
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4. Dump the fruit filling into a 9-inch square baking dish, ensuring the filling is evenly distributed. Dump the oatmeal crumble topping evenly over the fruit filling. 5.
Place the baking dish on the oven’s center rack and bake for about 45 minutes or until the pears are tender and the filling is bubbly.
6. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before serving. If desired, serve with whipped cream.
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SEASONAL RECIPES Celebrating the Harvest
carrot cake muffins PREP: 10 min COOK: 15 min TOTAL: 25 min SERVES: 6
1 3/4 cups whole wheat flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 2 eggs 1/4 cup virgin coconut oil, melted 1/2 cup raw honey 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 cup Greek yogurt 1 cup shredded carrots 1/2 cup chopped walnuts 1/2 cup raisins 1/2 cup crushed pineapple, drained
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Stir together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon,
salt and nutmeg in a mixing bowl. Set aside.
3. Whisk together the eggs, coconut oil, vanilla extract, honey and yogurt. 4. Add the shredded carrots, walnuts, raisins and pineapple to the wet ingredients and stir until combined.
5. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir until combined, don’t over mix.
6. Divide the batter between the holders of a muffin tin, filling each nearly to the top.
7. Bake for 15 minutes or until lightly browned and the centers are set.
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25 VARIETY
Since 1989 Books • Stationery • Jewelry Vintage • Bath & Body • Toys Home Decor • Accessories & Much Much More
Join us at the
South Dakota Festival of Books September 25-28 sdbookfestival.com
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Monday-Saturday open til 8pm Sunday 12-5pm
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3 SIMPLE STEPS FOR
BRAISING/POT ROASTING BEEF
1
STEP
CHOOSE YOUR CUT
Chuck Pot Roast
2
STEP
Shoulder steak
Short Ribs
boneless*
3
Bottom Round Rump Roast boneless*
Round steak
(Eye or Bottom) boneless*
Brisket fresh*
PREPARE YOUR BEEF
Slowly brown beef on all sides in a small amount of oil in heavy pan over medium heat. Pour off drippings.
STEP
Shank/Brisket
Round
Chuck
(Shoulder, Arm or Blade) boneless
Some of the best cuts for oven braising/pot roasting include: (*indicates lean)
Season beef with herbs and seasonings, as desired.
Add small amount (1/2 to 2 cups) of liquid, such as broth, water, juice, beer or wine.
COOK YOUR BEEF Cover tightly and simmer gently over low heat on top of the range or in a preheated 325°F oven according to guidelines (reverse) or until beef is fork-tender.
OR
BEEF COACH'S TIP: The cooking liquid may be thickened or reduced for a sauce, as desired.
For simple meal ideas, nutrition and cookery information as well as other great cuts for broiling, visit
BeefItsWhatsForDinner.com
Funded by the Beef Checkoff.
© 2013, CATTLEMEN’S BEEF BOARD AND NATIONAL CATTLEMEN’S BEEF ASSOCIATION
Celebrate South Dakota’s #1 industry with our Fall Feast Giveaway! Enter to win a $100 grocery gift card! To enter: Like our Facebook page, South Dakota Farm Families, and tell us about your favorite fall food underneath the contest tab. The more creative or delicious, the better!
Contest begins on Monday, September 1, 2014. Winner will be announced on Friday, October 31, 2014. Happy Harvest and Good Luck!