6 minute read
Tally Ho
by MOLLY SORGE
Molly Sorge, an equine journalist from Ruther Glen, Virginia and her horse, Elf, often spend autumn mornings on a fox hunt. Molly shares with us a story that transports us into her world of hunts, horses, hounds and a hunt breakfast. Stephen Hamilton recently traveled to Middleburg, Virginia to photograph and experience first hand a traditional fox hunt and all its trimmings. By his photos you’ll see he didn’t go hungry.
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Hunting mornings start early, drenched in fog and spiked with light as the sun makes its way through the trees. As I ready my horse, I chat with friends, catching up on all the news and sharing stories. After swinging a leg over my horse and setting off amidst the field of riders, I pause a moment and close my eyes, smelling the sharp, tangy sweat of my horse and the smoky musk of the leaves underfoot. The air has a piercing chill. We’ve stopped at a check, which means we are waiting for the hounds to pick up the scent of a fox. I lay my hand quietly on my horse’s neck, murmuring, seeking to calm him because he lives to chase the pack. He chews on his bit excitedly, creating a metallic music of his own. The 20 or so riders of the hunt field all standing, waiting, listening. A friend hands me a flask filled with liquid warmth and courage. The huntsman in charge of the pack of hounds urges them on with a soft voice and short blows of his horn. They’re looking for the fox.
A melodic cry splits the air—a hound has caught the scent. The crisp fall air echoes as the pack of hounds gives voice in tune like a choir—not barking, but literally singing their delight at giving chase. The horses swing their heads high and pull on the reins. We’re off, galloping over the fields. My horse’s hooves beat out a staccato rhythm as the wind whistles in my ears and blood races through my veins. The joyous voices of the hounds draw us dashing through the woods and leaping over stone walls, the thrill of the chase giving wings to our horses’ feet. The hunt flies by, hours of mad gallops interspersed with quiet checks as the hounds alternatively discover the fox’s scent, then lose and have to search for it again. The cry “Tally ho!” reverberates across the field as a sleek, crafty fox darts through the meadow, circling back on his tracks in full view of all of us, but giving the hounds the slip.
At the end of the day, the fox merrily finds his way home, having given us grand adventures, and we walk back to the gathering of trucks and trailers, sweaty, sated, and hungry. Sometimes we eat right outside the trailers, but today we will be at a beautiful home in the hills. I untack my horse and tie him to the trailer, leaving him to contented hay-munching. It’s time for the hunt breakfast. As hungry as foxhunters are for thrills, they’re just as ravenous for a fulfilling repast after a hard gallop. One by one each of us takes a turn scraping the mud off our boots on the cast iron boot scraper. Then we clomp loudly as we walk up the steps of our host’s large frame farmhouse. The door swings open and a gush of warm air touches our cheeks and our fingers as we peel off damp leather gloves. We rub our hands together to relieve the numbness and in anticipation.
assorted artisan cheeses & fruit
Across from the stone fireplace an antique table creaks under the platters of ham biscuits—a must on any Virginia menu, quiches, baked apples and a marvelous cheese and fruit plate. It’s a feast fit for a king, and our hosts have also included a steaming hot stew and roasted vegetables from their fields. The beguiling scent of autumn and tradition surrounds us.
boeuf bourguinonne
View Josephine Orba’s recipe on page 143 »
No hunt breakfast is complete without a few sips from the flask; each foxhunter has his or her own personal concoction for the day. I am soon balancing a plate full of decadent morsels on my lap, feeling the adrenaline of the chase fade and a deep sense on contentment flood over me. “That was quite a leap over that wall! Did you need a parachute to land?” jokes a fellow hunter. I wink at him and ask how he’d been able to see me, since his horse had been accelerating rapidly, which looked unintentional.
baking powder biscuits (cat head biscuits)
View Michael Martin’s recipe on page 144 »
ham biscuits
Make biscuits according to your favorite recipes. Heat and slice the ham. While still warm, spread a split biscuit with whole grain Dijon mustard, watercress and sliced Virginia ham. Serve with cornichons.
Recipe courtesy of Josephine Orba
roasted vegetables
View Josephine Orba’s recipe on page 145 »
This breaking of bread is much like a family dinner, with teasing and congratulations flung about against the background of camaraderie. The end-of-day banter lets us relive each moment, laugh at each other, and soak the experiences into our bones.
baked apples
Baked apples are stuffed with chopped dates, raisins, chopped pecans, butter, brown sugar, and sweet spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves).
panna cotta with jelly
View Josephine Orba’s recipe on page 146 »
virginia hunt breakfast
The Virginia hunt breakfast is actually served later in the day after a full morning of fox hunting. By that time, guests are ravenous and the “breakfast” more closely resembles a hearty feast. On our menu you’ll find delightful autumn dishes from ham to roasted vegetables to baked apples to panna cotta. And of course, there has to be some eggs.
