Weather Permitting: Winter Squash

FALL INTO WINTER SQUASH

WEATHER PERMITTING

by JUDITH MARA

Any time of year that you can grab a bunch of squash blossoms, you won’t regret it. Stuff them with any soft cheese such as goat or Telaggio, add fresh herbs, slivers of speck or crabmeat. Coat with two beaten eggs, roll in panko bread crumbs and lightly pan-fry.

One vegetable family is the epitome of fall and winter food. I’m talking about winter squash. Not only do all the classics like butternut, acorn and sugar pumpkin have a comforting, sweet, earthy taste, they’re probably one of the easiest vegetables on earth to cook. Which is also comforting.

Farmer’s markets are brimming with all kinds of exciting and new gold-greenorange winter squash. Did I say exciting? Yes, because each year more heirloom varieties are being rediscovered and grown by small farmers, most of which you can’t find at a supermarket.

acorn squash

Acorn squash stuffed with rice, roasted squash, dried cranberries and scallions. Bake in a shallow amount of water (bain-marie) to retain the shape of the squash.

It used to be easy to answer the question of what the difference was between summer and winter squash: Summer squash is thin-skinned and winter is thick-skinned, hence better for winter storage. Not so anymore. Two heirloom types coveted right now are red kuri and delicata, and both are so thin-skinned that the entire squash is edible from seeds to skin.

One of our favorite characteristics of winter squash is that you can create all kinds of hearty meatless main dishes with it. A creamy au gratin of butternut squash combined with cheese, cream and bread crumbs is always welcome. Acorn squash makes a wonderful container for any kind of stuffing from rice to quinoa. Risotto, a dish of creamy carnaroli rice simmered in broth and flecked with roasted squash, is as mellow and comforting as a warm fall day.

squash risotto

A traditional style of squash risotto garnished with shaved truffles.

squash tips for cooks

1. Just like pumpkin seeds, all winter squash seeds can be cleaned and toasted for a healthy snack. Just follow any recipe for toasting pumpkin seeds. We recommend low and slow.

2. My grandmother kept winter squash (thickskinned) in the cellar all winter. But most people don’t have a 45-degree cellar. Thankfully, there are other steps you can take to ensure your squash lasts as long as possible. Make sure there are no bruises or cuts on the squash you buy, then leave it on the countertop for one to two weeks to thicken the skins. At that point, you can keep the squash in the fridge (or a cellar) for quite a while. Avoid the vegetable drawer, however, as it is far too humid.

3. All cooked squash or pumpkin freezes well.

risotto with cheez-it’s

Chef Graham Elliot elevated squash to new heights with his Wisconsin Cheddar Risotto. Creamy risotto with squash, apples, cheddar cheese and Cheez-It’s make this dish more than exciting.

Peel and slice butternut squash very thinly and layer in a buttered ceramic dish with shredded Gruyère cheese, thyme, salt and pepper. Pour about 1 1/2 cups cream over the top and sprinkle with grated Parmesan. Bake at 375˚F for 40 minutes.

au gratin