The Extraordinary Egg

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by

KATHRYN O’MALLEY

What is there to say about the egg that hasn’t already been said? Laden with allusions to life and rebirth, we’ve long been intrigued by its elegant oval shape and all that it holds. From art and architecture to literature and religion, eggs are everywhere—including, of course, our very own kitchens. We whip them into soufflés, stir them into aioli, and sop up runny yolks with crisp buttered toast.

At their best, these delicate little orbs are nature’s perfect food, a deliciously compact source of protein, vitamins and minerals all tied into one. But with so many carton labels that are often more confusing than they are clarifying, how can you be sure you’re choosing the best option—and what do all those terms mean, anyway?

Here’s your guide to cracking the codes of the carton.

Unscrambling the Egg Carton

egg grades: Given by the United States Department of Agriculture, egg grades depend mainly on the firmness of the whites, the shape of the yolks, and the condition of the shells. AA eggs are the handsomest of the bunch and work well in dishes where appearance is important, though Grade A aren’t bad, either (the only difference being whites that are slightly less firm). Grade B eggs, used for processed, frozen or dried egg products, are rarely found in stores.

natural: There are no regulations for the term “natural,” and any producer can use this label. It says nothing about how the hens were raised or what they were fed.

vegetarian-fed: This means that the hens were fed an all-vegetarian diet, free of animal by-products, but it doesn’t tell us anything about living conditions. If it’s the only label on the carton, keep looking.

omega-3 enhanced or

fortified: The hens’ diets were fortified with good sources of omega-3’s, such as flaxseed, algae or fish oil. These eggs will contain more omega-3’s than your “plain label” supermarket brand.

cage-free: The hens were not kept in cages and had continuous access to food and water, but did not necessarily have access to the outdoors. Many cage-free birds are confined to crowded barns or warehouses.

certified humane: This label, like “cage-free,” means the hens were uncaged but did not necessarily have access to the outdoors. It’s still an improvement, though, since it makes requirements for things like stocking density, number of perches and laying boxes. free range: In addition to being raised cage-free, the hens were given access to the outdoors. Just keep in mind that there is no regulation dictating how long the hens must be outside or how much room they’re given.

pasture-raised: This means that the hens got at least part of their food from foraging on greens and bugs, which produces healthier and more delicious eggs.

organic: A USDA-certified organic label means that the hens were raised cagefree with outdoor access, on an organic diet, and with no hormones or antibiotics. These eggs are a healthy bet, but it’s still worth investigating your brand of choice as “outdoor access” can mean many different things—from a large grassy field to a tiny concrete porch.

shell color: The color of an egg has nothing to do with health or taste; different breeds of chickens simply produce different colored eggs. So why are the brown ones so expensive? Because the chickens that lay them tend to be bigger and more costly to feed.

yolk color: The best-tasting eggs will have richly colored yolks. Hens with more varied diets offer yolks that are dark yellow or orange, indicating higher levels of healthy omega-3’s and carotenoids.

shades of white: Believe it or not, cloudier egg whites mean fresher eggs. If the whites are pink, green or iridescent, you’ll know the egg is rotten (and the smell will make that pretty clear).

blood spots: Sometimes little blood spots, also called meat spots, appear on the egg yolk. This happens occasionally when a blood vessel is ruptured while the yolk is being formed—not exactly appetizing, but also nothing to worry about.

those twisted strands:

You know those rope-like strands of egg white you sometimes see? Chalazae are essentially thin strings that anchor the yolk to the inside of the eggshell, suspending it in the center of the white. The fresher the egg, the more prominent the chalazae.

Some More Eggsplanations