Avon Gorge
Avon Gorge Intro Characteristics
ROCKTYPE:..............Limestone MAX HEIGHT:..............120m ASPECT:................W TRAD:..................YES SPORT:.................YES SINGLE PITCH:..........YES MULTI PITCH:...........YES BOULDERING:............YES
Intro With easy access from the centre of Bistol and from the M4 or M5 coupled with extensive climbing and a sunny disposition this has long been one of the most frequented crags in the south. In its heyday some twenty years ago, Avon was the hub of the Bristol scene. Nowadays, however, it has become something of a backwater due to a series of events including a two year closure of the main wall for a major construction project followed by a two year occupation by gipsies ,the opening of Under Cover Rock and more recently, the opening up of Cheddar as a year round venue. Avon has also suffered from a reputation for choss, polish and ancient pegs -not always without justification. Despite all this Avon still has a lot of excellent climbing (as well as some less excellent stuff) and is the home of a number of South West classics. The crag is big, sporting numerous two and three pitch routes. Most of the rock is quarried and the over-riding ethic over the years has been trad although the numerous old pieces of in situ gear as well as the more recent retro bolting of many routes does reflect a healthy disregard for purism! Climbing is permitted throughout the year on most of the crags along the east bank of the river by the A4. The only exceptions being where the cliff rises directly from the roadside (ie Battleship Buttress now covered in netting anyway) and the right hand end of Main Wall where nesting restictions apply in spring and early summer. Details of these can be found at the main wall car park. The crags on the west side are out of bounds.
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