Wavelength / Coast&Kayak Magazine Spring 2011

WaveLength

COAST&KAYAK Magazine The magazine of adventure and recreation on the water

Volume 21, Issue 1

Spring 2011

FREE at select outlets and online or by subscription

BC’s Marine Trails Network is born We give an exclusive world preview to this epic new kayaking option

We’ve turned 20!

Celebrate with us as we give away a custom kevlar Titan VI from Atlantis. Details inside.

There’s more online in our multimedia edition: www.coastandkayak.com

WEEKLY AND SPECIAL EVENTS THIS SUMMER • Every Wednesday, Women on Water

Women only evening paddle with discounted rentals

• May 15, 2011, Tour De Indian Arm Kayak and SUP Race Come join in fun and test your skills

• June 25, 2011, Stand Up Paddle Board Demo Day Check out what the new boards have to offer

Deep Cove Outdoors is now located at:

352 Lynn Ave, North Vancouver 5min from 2nd Narrows Bridge

Deep Cove Canoe & Kayak deepcovekayak.com / 604.929.2268 Rentals • Lessons • Programs • Courses • Events

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Contents

This issue’s features: 8

With this paddle, I thee wed

A honeymoon well off the bridal path

Regular items: 6 News

8

34 Tours and Services

12 Made for adventure

38 Kayaks

Necky Looksha Elite,

Introducing the BC Marine Trail

16 Leg one: The North Island 20 Leg two: Brooks/Kyuquot

36

Atlantis Titan VI, Delta 20T

43 Instruction Directory

24 Leg three: Nootka

46 Skillset

by Alex Matthews

30 Leg four: Clayoquot

48 Paddle Meals

by Hilary Masson

42 Pick a kayak, any kayak

44

What to consider when buying

44 Ibis, the ancient seabird

50 Kayak-friendly

Accommodation 52 Fishing Angles

Wildlife

by Dan Armitage

THE ORIGINAL BRITISH SEA KAYAK

www.valleyseakayaks.com SPRING 2011

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The First Word

by John Kimantas

What’s in a name? I guess I’ll find out Spring 2011

Volume 21, Number 1 PM No. 41687515

Editor John Kimantas Advertising Sales Brent Daniel Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart

Cover Photo: Surveying sites for the BC Marine Trails Network meant long hours of paddling by volunteers. BCMTNA president Stephanie Meinke crosses toward Brooks Peninsula on one such trip to survey Heater Point.

Photo by Stephan Meinke.

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, paddling clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web. Also available by paid subscription.

Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome.

Find back issues, articles, events, writers guidelines and advertising information online at coastandkayak.com

SUBSCRIBE

$20 for 1 year – 4 issues $35 for 2 years – 8 issues While Coast&Kayak Magazine is made available free, subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue.

To subscribe, visit www.coastandkayak.com/Subscribe.html or call 1-866-984-6437.

Advertising rates and submission guidelines available at www.coastandkayak.com

ISSUE AD DEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Spring 2011 Feb. 4 March 1 Summer 2011 April 15 May 16 Fall 2011 July 1 Aug. 1 Winter 2011 Oct. 1 Nov. 1

Is it fitting or a cop-out to rename a magazine on its 20th birthday? Or is that a betrayal to history and tradition? Either way Wavelength Magazine is officially Coast&Kayak Magazine now, though I expect unofficially it will be Wavelength forever in many people’s minds.

Don’t get me wrong. Wavelength is a great name. Too good a name, actually. It’s so good that there are multiple other Wavelength Magazines out there. There is: Wavelength Magazine, the weekly live music series and monthly zine based in Toronto; Wavelength Magazine, the official publication of the Association of Public Safety Communications Officials (APCO) in Canada; Wavelength Magazine focusing on news and advances in radiation therapy, information management and neuroscience; and most troubling of all, Wavelength Magazine, the UK surfing magazine. Woe be the subscriber who contacts me wondering where their next issue is and what happened to the free flip-flops they were promised. All I can do is point them in the general direction of England.

This wouldn’t be a problem say 20 years ago, when Wavelength was first conjured up out there on Gabriola Island (with thanks to Alan and Peter and the rest for creating such a fantastic legacy). Today Wavelength runs into a problem that couldn’t have been anticipated 20 years ago – the electronic media. So much depends now on Google, and if you punch in Wavelength most of the 12.6 million or so search results will invariably involve Blue Tooth technology or similar (in case you were wondering, a wavelength is the spatial period of the wave or the distance over which the wave’s shape repeats. Not particularly poetic by definition.) Not to mention that if you go to the Official Wavelength Magazine Facebook Page, it’s not us. It’s those Brit surfers.

So I hope Coast&Kayak is distinct enough. I think it summarizes us nicely, since I like to think our focus extends beyond paddlers to anyone who loves the coast, so emphasizing that aspect isn’t a bad thing – though I’m sure many will appreciate the irony that the lead article in this magazine has no coast at all and more rafts than kayaks. My rebuttal is we are all about inclusion. Canoeists, paddleboarders, surf skiers, surf kayakers – in fact, anyone who loves exploring by water – you’re all welcome here.

If I owe anyone an apology I think it’s Canoe and Kayak, as we now share the same initials (C&K Magazine), but I’m sure the world is big enough for the two of us. At least it’s less crowded than the Wavelength Magazine world.

But to put minds at ease, the name is the only real change. The rest is a constant evolution, such as our multimedia online edition (please visit if you haven’t seen it yet), our rejigged website (the online Kayak Buyer’s Guide is awesome now), and other advances. So here’s to looking back at our history, and ahead to a great next 20 years!

- John Kimantas

A product of:

Wild Coast Publishing #6 10 Commercial St. Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5G2 Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937 Email: kayak@coastandkayak.com Website: www.coastandkayak.com

We put aside paddles to hike the Nootka Trail. Get details on this magnificent route on page 26.

© 2010. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine.

No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose, except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010, courtesy of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some elements that may appear on Coast&Kayak maps.

Coast&Kayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible. Safety and travel information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge. A safety course and proper equipment are advised before any exploration on water. See a list of paddling instruction locations at www.coastandkayak.com

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News

Setting the speed record for circumnavigating Vancouver Island may be for the elite, but enough other circle adventures are set for 2011 to keep paddlers occupied in everything from competitive hauls to free-spirited fun runs.

Back again is the Alert Bay 360, set this year for July 31 to coincide with the BC Day long weekend. It will feature a race around Malcolm Island (off Port McNeill on northern Vancouver Island). Plus the community gets involved with a Big House celebration, seafood buffet and First Nations cultural dance performances.

The only catch: registration is being limited to 200 participants this year.

Registration will take place online soon at www.alertbay360.com.

Back for its 11th year is the Round Bowen Island Challenge. Well situated for Vancouver and Greater Seattle paddlers, the race is set for Sunday, June 26 and features a tough 35-kilometer slog around the Howe Sound island north of Vancouver. Visit roundbowenchallenge.com.

Bound to entail less competition, the Gabriola 360 Fun Race takes place for its second year on Sunday, Aug. 21. The first year race organizers Silva Bay Kayak Adventures attracted 26 participants. Visit www.silvabayakaking.com.

For more summer events, visit www.coastandkayak.com/events.html

Bonny Glambeck photo

Summer 2011: it’s made for going around in circles

Clayoquot at risk – again

The Catface Range from Dick and Jane Beach. See page 30.

With plans already in the works for open pit mining of the iconic Catface Range in Clayoquot Sound, a new threat is being faced by Flores Island as logging company Iisaak is looking to build roads into an area it signed an agreement in 1999 to preserve from logging. The Wilderness Committee is launching an email petition to halt the logging. Visit wildernesscommittee.org to add your voice.

Meanwhile, Coast&Kayak columnist Dan Lewis and partner Bonny Glambeck will be touring British Columbia coastal communities this spring with a presentation called ‘Secrets of Clayoquot Sound’.

The seasoned naturalists and expedition paddlers will share stories about their adventures at home in Clayoquot Sound backed by wildlife and landscape shots from some of BC’s leading outdoor photographers.

The show will cover the natural beauty and splendor of the Clayoquot Sound UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the ecology of the region’s ancient rainforests and threats to that ecology including fish farms, logging and the open-pit mine proposal.

For dates and details visit the Friends of Clayoquot Sound website at www.focs.ca.

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News

One new website address.

All the kayaking information you’ll ever need.

• Back issues of magazines.

• Kayak Buyer’s Guide.

• Gear Buyer’s Guide.

• Kayaking skills information.

• Boat building information.

• And much, much more.

www.coastandkayak.com

When you’ve reached the edge of your world, ours begins

Explore...

Island lifestyle, adventure tours, unspoiled beauty, wildlife sightseeing, spectacular storm watching, fishing and kayaking, Haida Gwaii Culture, diverse cultural heritage, surfing and beach walks

Sandspit | Queen Charlotte | Skidegate | Tlell | Port Clements | Masset | Old Massett

See what exists outside of cell coverage.

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SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE JOP-032 Necky Kayaks Half Page Ad • Wavelength Magazine • 7.125” x 4.6875”• hammerquist.net sydney@hammerquist.net 425.285.3363

7

Destinations

by Nikki Rekman / photos by Mark Klein

With this paddle

I thee wed This isn’t every girl’s dream honeymoon.But could it start a trend?

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The Grand Canyon

A paddling honeymoon – I certainly did not have dreams of this as a little girl, I can assure you, but then again there are a few of those dreams that thankfully were never fulfilled.

When Mark and I finally decided we were going to take the plunge into matrimony I figured there would be nothing traditional about our wedding. Heck, I was just thankful we were finally getting to this point. But to my delight and surprise this is the story of a paddling adventure that exceeded a little girl’s expectations.

On Oct. 9. 2010 Mark and I were married. It was everything I had hoped for and much more – not a huge affair but one that was representative of who Mark and I are, shared of course with the important people in our lives. But Mark had his own idea of how to celebrate our life-long commitment – a paddle down the Grand Canyon for our honeymoon.

Here is where the adventure begins. On October 11 we left our home near Vancouver, BC, and headed south to Flagstaff, Arizona, where we were to meet up with the crew from Canyon Explorations/Expeditions for a 15-day paddle down the Colorado. Also on the trip was our friend Lynne from Western Canoeing and Kayaking in Abbotsford, BC. So there we were, the three of us, at the put-in at Lee’s Ferry on the north shore of the Colorado. There was definitely the excitement of exploring a new river. And not just any river, but one that winds its way through the bottom of one of the most remarkable geological features on the planet: the Grand Canyon.

Over the course of the first few days it was amazing to me how we lost our inhibitions with the total strangers we had only just met and ultimately became our own little river tribe. Picture the girls going upstream to pee and the boys going downstream – on the Colorado to adequately handle the number of people that visit each year you pee in the river and haul everything else out in sealed ammo boxes (also referred to as “the “groover” for the grooves left in your behind from the boxes before some river guide genius thought of using a toilet seat).

I wasn’t sure at first how it would be unwinding all the craziness of the wedding and end-of-season work for me (I’m a sales representative in the paddling industry). It was work – the paddling, the river life, all the people and the weather – but the 225 miles were some of the most amazing paddling days I have ever experienced.

I had never been on the water for that many consecutive days and had certainly never planned a trip where you had to take down camp every morning and set it all up again later in the day. However, you get into a routine and it is very much a part of your experience of being on the river. Finding just the right spot to quickly set up your tent for the night (remember we were paddling in October, so the days were shorter) became something to look forward to – a type of nesting, really. Ah, I love it.

Evenings were spent cooking, visiting with fellow paddlers, debriefing the day and planning the next. Did I say there was some work involved? I love the river life. Crawling into the tent, feeling certain that your sleeping mat was four inches thick and not 1.5 inches because you could feel the relaxation in every muscle in your body as you lay down.

The river is most certainly a good analogy for married life. It winds and meanders and with its mighty flow makes many of the rough spots smooth – over time. Mark is my best friend and our most significant meeting place is the out of doors and particularly paddling. Some might think a paddling honeymoon could be the beginning of the end (we heard from one guide a story of a couple that decided to get divorced on a trip at about the half-way point). Mark and I fared much better. We work stuff out better on the river than we do at home. I think this is mostly because things are simplified on the water. You need to make so many miles, eat, sleep and with those objectives we each know what we have to do to get those things done successfully.

We established our roles on paddling trips many years ago.

At home we call these departments. Mine, for example, is cooking and his is dishes.

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Destinations We paddled the river at 8,000 cubic feet per second (CFS – think 8,000 basketballs passing by you each second – isn’t that a visual!) and during the summer months the river is typically at about 20-22,000 CFS. The features of the river at 8,000 CFS are more exposed because of the lower flow.

This allowed us to paddle the inflatable kayaks with greater success, which essentially means less swimming. In addition to the two inflatable kayaks, we had five oar boats and one paddle boat. I had never paddled in water as big as this and it was thrilling – and at one point frightening – after being eaten by a huge hole at Horn Creek rapid.

How happy was I to eventually pop-up downstream only to see the big eyes of my betrothed saying, “I’m glad that’s over.”

The highlight of the trip in terms of the river for me was successfully running Lava Falls, the largest rapid on the river, with multiple features and must-do moves. Mark and I, having demonstrated some degree

story and images by John Kimantas of competence while sitting comfortably in our drysuits, were honored on the one hand, but also quite petrified that we were selected to be in the front of the paddleboat to run Lava. We had an opportunity to scout before we ran and looking down from our vantage point I was pretty sure I was going to either puke or cry. That thing was big (even at 8,000 CFS)!

I was not the only one with anxiety. The entire day before and that morning we were all praying that we wouldn’t have an out-ofboat experience. And it was important for the guides too, as this was their last trip of the season and they too seemed eager to end on a high note.

As it turned out no one swam Lava Falls – the river had mercy on us this particular day. The next stop was Tequila Beach for a night of celebrating with some liquid libation which our guides’ called a “bucket of stupid” (need I say more).

I would be remiss if I did not tell you

that the canyon is more than just the river.

The geology is mind-boggling and touching rocks that are over a billion years old, well, that’s pretty impressive. The hiking is incredible in the side canyons and although I am not much of a hiker I was so glad that I did them because those tucked-away places that you can’t see from the river were gorgeous.

Many people have gone before us on this amazing river. Some are famous, like John Wesley Powell, and some infamous, like Bert Loepper, and their stories and others were such an important part of our own journey down the river. If you get a chance to visit this magical place, you won’t regret the time it took or the money it cost – we sure don’t and more specifically a paddling honeymoon is one that you will never forget because who does that?

In the words of a paddlesports colleague, what a fitting trip as Mark and I start on our grand journey together. < Nikki enjoys sharing paddling adventures with her husband, Mark, and is a sales rep in the canoeing & kayaking industry.

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Avocet LV 10Spring 2011.indd COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 1

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2/3/2011 3:06:21 PM

The Grand Canyon A gentle moment along the Grand Canyon. Click online for a slideshow.

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The BC Marine Trail

by John Kimantas

It was a day of perfect paddling conditions when passing through the Bunsby Islands on a trip following the new West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail.

Official status to the route along the wildest coast of Vancouver Island will ensure passage through some of the world’s most spectacular scenery and the best kayaking imaginable. It is a route truly

On my first run down the outside of Vancouver Island by kayak, Cape Scott served up a thrashing. The cape is the northwestern-most point of land on Vancouver Island, and it was deceivingly calm as I passed the cape’s resident sea lion rookery at dawn. Rubbery whiskered noses snorted at me as they surfaced beside the kayak. I lingered absently, unaware of how my leisurely approach was working against me. No sooner was I past the lighthouse than the wind picked up from the south. In moments I was fighting vicious wind waves of several feet, coupled with an adverse and growing current. My progress slowed to a crawl, and to make matters worse, the current kept trying to push me towards the cape’s sharp reefs. My GPS kept dropping to a reading of 0.0 kmh – too slow to be measured. By doubling my effort the end of the peninsula slowly crept into view. There the current seemed to release me, and I managed to drop into the relative safety of Lowrie Bay. I did have ample time to recover, though – the next two days were spent waiting out a storm.

My second crossing was more peaceful but eery. The

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wind behaved, leaving just a gentle swell. The reefs loomed in and out of view, causing us to constantly second-guess where they were hidden, while a heavy mist made the background surreal.

Both instances left indelible memories, as did most of the rest of the outer coast of Vancouver Island. The run from Port Hardy to Tofino, a distance of about 800 kilometres by kayak, covers the best of the coast of British Columbia in a run remarkable in so many ways. The rugged nature, the isolation, the diversity of scenery and the varied and rich ecology is remarkable. In addition, each region has its own particular attractions and charm. Given that it is so wild and uninhabited the need to formalize a route like this might seem unnecessary – after all, most is Crown land (that is, public) or already protected as parkland. But consider that it might not always be this way.

A wakeup call for the kayaking community in British Columbia was the advent of the Maa-Nulth Treaty in 2006.

More than a century overdue, the treaty served to right wrongs left over from British colonization that eroded

Port Hardy

The WCVIN section

This issue: We take you on a journey through the rugged new West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trails from Port Hardy to Tofino.

Next issue: Hopping serene islands along the new Gulf Islands Marine Trail Network.

Tofino

aboriginal rights without legal resolution. The Maa-Nulth Treaty was British Columbiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first coastal treaty, and so provided a glimpse for the future of how coastal native communities will be transformed.

Not surprising, the treaty grants additional land, but in contrast to previous treaty lands the Maa-nulth lands are fee simple: that is, essentially private property that can be bought and sold. And not surprisingly, many of the parcels picked out in the treaty are among the most heavily used coastal recreation areas, such as Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound, and Toquart Bay, the main launch point for kayakers heading to the popular Broken Group Islands.

In response to this and other changes along the coast, paddling clubs across British Columbia united in 2007 to begin the process of creating a marine trail composed of launch sites, campsites and safe havens to allow travel by paddle along the entire BC coast for generations to come. The result, when complete, will be the largest marine trail in the world. What followed was a lengthy process by volunteers

of nine paddling clubs in identifying sites, visiting them, working with the government and consulting with First Nations interests to push forward the goal.

With enough of the preliminary work out of the way, the government has agreed to lift the veil of quiet behind-thescenes work and announce support for the full trail while officially opening the first two portions: the West Coast Vancouver Island North section from Port Hardy to Tofino and the Gulf Islands Trail Network between Victoria and Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. The official announcement will be made at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in May, along with a ceremonial group paddle through a portion of the Gulf Islands route to celebrate the occasion. It may well be the most historic paddle in the history of British Columbia.

The changes for kayakers will initially be largely invisible, as site development isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t part of the equation. At least, not yet. What does change, though, is the designation of the land itself. Once a marine trail site, the designation trumps other possible proposed uses such as fish farms and resorts.

In other words, the trail is here to stay. u SPRING 2011

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The BC Marine Trail John Kimantas photo

For the West Coast Vancouver Island North section, currently 147 marine trail sites are on the table (including access points, overnight locations and picnic sites where kayakers can visit but not stay.) How many will end up officially on the trail is still an unknown, as some considerations have yet to be resolved. For instance, many key kayaking campsites in areas such as the Bunsby Islands won’t be part of the initial inventory, if at all, because they are located in the Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve, which restricts foreshore access by the public. The ban on access has always been in place; it has just never been enforced.

Cultural sensitivity for First Nations is another issue. Government representatives working with the planning group, the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA), have been approaching First Nations representatives to work together in designating appropriate sites for the trail, but issues such as historic use (for instance, camping on a former village site) mean some sites are still in limbo or may be dropped.

The first two sections to be unveiled are just the first of the many legs that will eventually join to allow travel by paddle

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Kayaks on the beach at Apple Islets before crossing Brooks Peninsula.

down the entire BC coast from Washington State to Alaska. While some areas, such as the Discovery Islands north of Campbell River (the cluster that includes Quadra and Cortes islands), are fairly complete, other regions such as the North and Central BC coast are more complex. The huge area to be covered, the distance from home bases (in terms of BCMTNA volunteers being able to “groundproof ” potential sites), cultural issues and even the province’s recent creation of vast parcels of newly protected areas are all factors that will slow the trail’s completion.

That’s the long-term problem. In the

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short-term, even trail portions will help create a network of known and reliable camping locations, removing the question of where to stay at the end of the day – a traditional hurdle for treks along the BC coast in both populated and isolated sections.

While the trail announcement is a huge step forward, the process won’t end even once all the trail components are announced. The BCMTNA expects to continue to play a key role in searching for and lobbying for new sites in the years ahead, as well as working on a public education and trail advocacy component.

There may also be a need for campsite development as wilderness areas become better used and begin to require services.

What follows is an introductory look at the West Coast Vancouver Island North trail section. Because this is a preview in advance of formal designation, some sites mentioned may not make the official end list. In addition, a multitude of other sites remain on the BCMTNA “dream list,” not yet publicly released but with hopes for future inclusion. Others will follow on the list shortly as paddling in British Columbia enters an exciting new era.

The WCVIN section

Paddling is invigorating.

It feeds my spirit. It renews my mind, body and soul. It’ s a chance to get away from deadlines, construction noise and cell phones.

Paddling is bliss.

- Ashley

Ashley - kayaker, snowboarder and photographer, exploring rock formations off the Oregon Coast. ©Mike Hood/NRS

What does paddling mean to you?

Share your thoughts at nrsweb.com/share SPRING 2011

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The BC Marine Trail

Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island, offers an exceptional kayaking beach. The area can also be hiked now via the new North Coast Trail.

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The North Island Welcome to the end of the world. Officially it’s only the northern end of Vancouver Island, but when you paddle west past Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island, you pass a magical point where civilization has tried to encroach, but nature continually reclaims. Many ruins are testimony to nature’s dominance here, which you can feel like the morning mist.

The majority of the coast in this region is within Cape Scott Provincial Park. While the West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail will formalize marine access, foot access went through a similar unveiling in 2008 when the long-awaited North Coast Trail was officially opened. The extension of the Cape Scott Trail allows hiking over the entire north end of Vancouver Island from Shushartie Bay to the old Cape Scott Trail trailhead at San Josef Bay. This opened foot access to vast stretches such as Shuttleworth Bight and Cape Sutil previously limited to access by kayaks and small boats. But don’t worry about overcrowding. There’s more than enough beach for everyone, and this area has some great

stretches of sand – an unexpected amount, actually, given the fact this area has a reputation for a rocky, storm-ridden coast.

Crossing Cape Scott by paddle is an exercise in bravery, planning and discretion, with (knock on wood) some luck thrown in for good measure. If all goes well you gain the privilege of being among the few who have successfully transited one of the most notoriously tricky points on the British Columbia coast. South of Cape Scott can be equally problematic. Troubling southerly winds, storms and numerous offshore rocks can make this relatively short stretch of water daunting. But as in all things coastal, timed right you are likely to find yourself immersed in a world populated not by stormy seas but by sea lions, sea otters, grey whales and humpbacks.

A new circuit growing more popular is a circle route from Port Hardy and around North Vancouver Island and back through Quatsino Sound. By making arrangements with tour operators in Port Hardy you can be picked up in Coal Harbour and returned to your vehicle – a convenient ending to a great adventure. u Hope I.

2 Nahwitti Bar

9

9 Cape Sutil

Nahwitti River 9 9 9 Shuttleworth Bight Laura Cr.

3

9

9 Guise Bay

Jepther Pt.

Skinner Cr. (hike-in only)

9 (hike-in only)

Cape Scott

Deserters/Walker Group Nigei I.

9F

North Coast Trail trailhead (Shushartie Bay)

9 Loquillilla Cove

Harlequin Bay 9 God’s Pocket Balaclava Island booms 9 G o le t as Ch a nnel 9 Bell Island 9 1 Nolan Pt. (Balaclava I.)

Map legend

9 Nissen Bight

Nels Bight

9 Designated marine trail campsite 9 Non-marine trail campsite y Launch site F Trailhead ´ Community/services

Lowrie 9 Bay

9

North Coast Trail trailhead F (San Josef)

3

y9

San Josef Bay

´ y Holberg

9 Cape Palmerston 9 Raft Cove

9Topknot Pt.

´9 Winter Harbour y

4

Quatsino Entrance

Hardy

´ Bay Port Hardy y

Park, reserve or conservation area Route of 2009 Coast&Kayak trip 2009 Coast&Kayak trip campsites

Please note: these maps show most key established campsites along the WCVIN route even if not designated as part of the marine trail. These sites may be candidate sites in the process of being formalized.

Some established sites that are under discussions with interested parties (such as BC Parks or First Nations) have been omitted from the maps.

Ahwhichaolta Inlet Quatsino Provincial Park

y

9 Grant Bay 9 Hunt Its.

Songhees Cr. 9 Goodnuff Beach 9

Beaver Harbour To find tour operators, water taxis and service providers for areas covered by this trail, see page 34-35 and watch for the WCVIN logo.

y Coal Harbour Rupert Arm Quatsino Narrows Quatsino •

Ildstad Is. 9

9 Drake I

Varney Bay To Port Hardy Marble River 9 (drive-in only)

Quatsino Sound

Mahatta River (drive-in only) 9 Route to Gooding Cove Side Bay

9 y9 sites) and Blue Cod Islet COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 9 Rowley Reefs (twoSPRING 2011

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y

Map continues south on page 21

Port Alice 17

y ´

The BC Marine Trail

u Trail guide preview: the North Island The North Island isn’t just one adventure opportunity. It’s a dozen. Take your pick from idyllic island clusters near launches and pavement to remote and rarely visited beaches. Just be sure to match your skill level to your intentions.

Access Points: If you follow the Island Highway north of Victoria you’ll run out of blacktop at Port Hardy, about 500 km north (308 miles). This is the logical starting point for most North Island adventures, though if you turn west just before Port Hardy’s downtown you’ll follow a rough logging road for 60 km that ends at San Josef Bay and the Cape Scott Trail trailhead.

A Western Forest Product campsite offers a boat ramp into the San Josef River, best navigated at high tide. Other options exist within Quatsino Sound at places like Coal Harbour and Port Alice, though they

are less convenient to the best kayaking locations of the outer coast. Winter Harbour offers fairly quick access to great paddling at the expense of a rough logging road. Bring a spare, or better yet, two.

Short trip options: Good day paddle and weekend trips out of Port Hardy include all the nearby islands, which are numerious. The most accessible are in Beaver Harbour just east of Hardy Bay. God’s Pocket Provincial Park offers weekend adventures or longer trips spent exploring nearby islands, with the caveat that winds, tides and traffic are high here, particularly in Goletas Channel, which must be crossed. Other destinations in Quatsino Sound offer sheltered paddling, such as idyllic Varney Bay and the mouth of Marble River. Winter Harbour is an ideal gateway for terrific scenery in Quatsino Entrance.

The north Island by foot For decades Vancouver Island’s most famous hike has been the West Coast Trail, a rugged multi-day route between Bamfield and Port Renfrew near the south end of the island. But it has become a victim of its own success, popular to the point reservations are now necessary.

A new rival for any hiker’s “mustdo” list is the North Coast Trail, which opened in 2008. It adds 35 kilometers to the Cape Scott Trail for a total hike of 48 kilometers – less than the West Coat Trail’s 78 km, but no less imposing for all the challenges hikers will endure.

It is easy to consider the North Coast Trail the equivalent of the West Coast Trail 20 years ago before it was discovered: undeveloped, rough and tumble and the wild challenge one would hope to experience in so remote a location. Don’t expect the myriad of trail aids that many believe have spoiled the West Coast Trail.

Travel is difficult from the outset. The trailhead at Shushartie Bay requires boat access, usually a water taxi from Port Hardy. From there it’s a difficult hike overland to Skinner Creek, and from there 18

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

Should you find it daunting you can always stay away from open water and explore Ahwhichaolta Inlet instead.

Moderate trip options: Several weeks can be spent exploring the God’s Pocket area, with side trips to the Deserters/Walker Groups and the two larger islands off Port Hardy: Nigei and Hope islands. Going as far as Jepther Point or, with the necessary expertise, Cape Sutil, is recommended. Or by launching from San Josef you can reach Guise Bay and other nearby attractions, including Cape Scott (should conditions allow; if not, San Josef Bay has lots to offer, with beautiful beaches, sea caves, sea stacks and even a trail to the top of Mount St. Patrick for panoramic views of the area).

From Winter Harbour trips to Kwakiutl Point are highly rewarding (see the next leg for details of that area).

Heading west toward Christensen Point on the new North Coast Trail, another spectacular way to experience the grandeur of northern Vancouver Island.

the trail gets even more difficult, with the toughest area surrounding Cape Sutil.

Once near Shuttleworth Bight the trail levels and becomes mostly an idyllic beach hike westward. Trials along the way will include self-propelled cable cars (bring gloves), routes blocked at certain tide levels (bring patience) and the almost inevitable black bear encounter (bring spray). Add one last inevitable feature – rain – and your North Coast Trail adventure will be complete (bring a rain jacket).

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Hikers should allow six days to complete the trail, though it can be done more quickly. An extra day spent reaching the lighthouse at Cape Scott is worthwhile. For more information, a detailed article can be viewed in the Spring 2008 issue of Wild Coast Magazine (find a copy at Coast&Kayak’s online magazine carousel). You can also purchase a detailed North Coast Trail route map, available at outdoor stores or online at www.coastandkayak.com.

The North Island Nearing Cape Scott in the fog. A video of this eery crossing can be viewed in the multimedia online version at www.coastandkayak.com.

Advanced trips: The waters in this area tend to be among the most advanced anywhere, with difficulties such as Nahwitti Bar and Cape Scott awaiting any run of this region. Either despite these features or because of them, a circle route growing in popularity is from Port Hardy around Cape Scott into Quatsino Sound to exit at Coal Harbour. The advantage is a very short return trip back to your vehicle at Port Hardy. Plan two weeks allowing for foul weather days at key crossings; any leftover time can be spent exploring the myriad attractions of Quatsino Entrance before the run back to Coal Harbour. Due to prevailing weather an anti-clockwise run is best. If transportation logistics allow it, variations can include ending at San Josef, Winter Harbour or continuing down the coast for a partial or complete run of the whole trail. (A solution in these situations is

Quatsino Entrance is the biggest benefactor of new sites in this region, with established places like Raft Cove and Hunt Islets getting the tentative nod, while new sites have been inventoried near Rowley Reefs and the north entrance (with a brilliant new find at a place dubbed Quatsino Caves Beach, where the sea caves make great exploring).

Only about half the sites in this region are listed. The remainder have yet to be given the official okay.

two vehicles for the group, with one parked at each trailhead. Otherwise options such as the shuttle bus to the Cape Scott trailhead may suit. Local operators may also have solutions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; contact the tour operators and water taxi services listed starting page 34.)

New BC Marine Trail sites: Veterans of this area may be disappointed to see few if any unknown sites added to the inventory, and quite a few missing. But there is progress. Sites on Vancouver Island at Songhees Creek and a protected cove dubbed Goodnuff Beach are now protected, as well as Nolan Point and the booms across Goletas Channel on Balaklava Island. Not much can change along the north shore, as it is already within Cape Scott Provincial Park, but all established sites at places like Nissen Bight, Nels Bight and Cape Sutil can now be considered marine trail sites as well.

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COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

19

Stephan Meinke photo

The BC Marine Trail

The tufted puffins won me over, but it was the humpback that made the greatest impression.

During my first pass through this area back in 2003 I left Klaskish Inlet well before dawn to make good time around Brooks Peninsula while I had a favorable weather forecast in advance of a storm. It was dead calm as the sun rose, and the only sound for hours was the splish of my paddle and thousands of tiny jumping fish that kept me company. The fish may have been a warning of what was to come, because in what seemed a monstrous parody a humpback whale breached the water in front of me, close enough so I could see the individual ventral grooves, and crashed down in an explosive landing.

This was the start of a parade of wildlife that day. The stars were the hundreds of colorful tufted puffins flying past in businesslike fashion, then crash-landing in an ungainly ball of sprayed water. Eight years later, I still rank this as my single best day of kayaking. At one point two grey whales surfaced in front of me, side by side, so close to my kayak I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have fit my fingers between the closest and my kayak. There they were, two whales stacked together in front of my kayak. If only my film camera hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t run out!

Brooks Peninsula may seem a distant and imposing stretch of land, 20

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BCMTNA president Stephanie Meinke pauses to take in the scenery during an early morning crossing to Heater Point.

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Map continues north on page 17

59 Kwakiutl Pt.

Brooks/Kyuquot 9

Side Bay y

99

Lawn Pt. (three sites) 9

y Klaskino Inlet

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Heater Pt. 9

Klaskino Anchorage

9 9

Side Bay

Klaskish Inlet East Creek

Muqin/ Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park

9 Marks Creek Estuary 9 Crab Apple Islets

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Brooks Peninsula Jackobson Pt.

Cape Cook Solander Island

Tahsish-Kwoi Provincial Park

9 Nasparti Pocket Beach 9 Columbia Cove

7

Big Bunsby Island

9 Big Bunsby Park Beach 9 Black Sand Beach

9 Nordstrum Cr.

y

Bunsby Islands

Clark Pt.

Artlish River

Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve

British Cr. Trail Cr. 9 9 Kyuquot Sound

8-9

9South Spring I.

Union I.

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Fair Harbour Amai

9 Inlet

Mission Group Islands

9 Rugged Point Provincial Park Map continues south on page 25

and indeed it does have a well-earned reputation as a stormy and dangerous location (the last kayaking fatality was in 2008, while five fishermen were lost in Side Bay in 2010). But access to both the north and south sides of the peninsula mean the best features can be enjoyed without the danger of a full-fledged crossing. Popular kayaking destinations are the Mission Group Islands near the entrance to Kyuquot Sound to the south, or the Bunsby Islands which lie closer to Brooks Peninsula. Both are notably excluded from the current list of marine trail sites – the Bunsby Islands due to the ecological status of the archipelago’s foreshore, which precludes public access (an oddity that has been ignored by both visitors and reserve officials for decades).

Another world awaits exploration to the north of the peninsula. Arriving here from Quatsino Sound means passing the rugged and exposed shores of Lawn Point Provincial Park, which offers several inviting camping options as well as

fantastic reef-strewn shores. Inside Side Bay are more island clusters, beaches and inlets to be explored. A trip to Solander Island, a major seabird sanctuary, is recommended if conditions allow. Don’t worry, you won’t bother the seabirds.

The island is surrounded by inaccessible cliffs.

Several spectacular beaches are located near Jackobson Point. Long established as campsites, they run the same difficulty as the Bunsbys in that the foreshore is within the Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve. So they’re off the marine trail list and within that grey area that is a bit of a parody of the no-trace camping slogan: sneak in, sneak out.

That and First Nations considerations have kept most of the stretch between south Brooks Peninsula and Kyuquot Sound unmarked for designated marine trail sites. While recreational use is likely to continue to be enjoyed, official designation is still a question mark and a major quandary for marine trail proponents.

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The BC Marine Trail

u Trail guide preview: Brooks/Kyuquot While seemingly too wild and inaccessible for a casual visit, many kayakers enjoy serene visits by taking a water taxi.

This, for instance, cuts down the length of the trip from the launch site at Fair Harbour or Artlish River, which would otherwise require one day out and one day back by paddle. Add another day of paddling each way if your goal is the Bunsby Islands.

Water taxis are harder to come by if your goal is the north end of Brooks Peninsula.

Luckily water access is a bit simpler as paddling to some key locations will take a few hours, not days.

Access Points: For south Brooks Peninsula, two key access points exist in Kyuquot Sound. Both are within the auspices of the Kyuquot/Checleset as a result of the Maa-nulth Treaty. Public access remains unchanged, however.

For visitors to the north side of Brooks Peninsula, two points provide handy access to the water, though transit requires a lengthy drive over tough and active logging roads. Expect white knuckles. Side Bay

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COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

provides the most direct access, with the advantage of being on an extremely scenic beach, while Klaskino Inlet has a small and very rough boat launch with limited parking.

It is also possible to reach the Side Bay area from the Quatsino Sound launches such as Winter Harbour.

Short or moderate trip options: Almost any trip here should involve several days, but it is worth the investment. While water taxis will cut the travel time to your base camp, a week is still recommended and you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t regret the time. For self-directed trips, a launch from Fair Harbour makes Rugged Point a great and easy destination, with the Mission Group a slightly more advanced option.

To the north, both Side Bay and Klaskino Inlet make Heater Point a wonderful destination, or any of the other campsite options from Lawn Point to Apple Islets. Weather permitting a day trip to Solander Island is exceptional.

Advanced trip options: The prize, of course, is a transit of Brooks Peninsula,

SPRING 2011

usually run from north to south to take advantage of good weather (that being the prevailing northwesterly).

New BC Marine Trail sites: This region is problematic as the foreshore along the south peninsula including the Bunsby Islands is in Checleset Ecological Reserve. Because of this the foreshore is barred from public access (the islands themselves are not). The ecological reserve was created in 1981 to protect sea otters that were reintroduced here. They are now flourishing, but the current strategy remains to direct recreational use away from the islands towards Big Bunsby Provincial Park, which was created to serve the recreational needs. Unfortunately, camping is at a premium on the island, and the two inventoried sites surveyed by the BC Marine Trails Network Association are less than ideal. Also off the list are many Mission Group sites (with the notable exception of South Spring Island, which remains outside the Maa-nulth Treaty lands). In other words, this area still has much to be done.

Brooks/Kyuquot

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23

Rugged Pt. 9 Map continues north on page 21

The BC Marine Trail Jurrasic Pt. Tatchu Pt. 9 Yellow Bluff

There’s a magical sense of history in Nootka Sound, highlighted by the quaint little church at Yuquot. Step into the foyer and you’ll see stained glass windows donated by the Spanish government to commemorate Spain’s role here that included the only Spanish military fort in Canada. Step inside the church and you’ll see some fantastic totems.

You can visit here by paddle, of course, through relatively protected waters. Advanced kayakers will relish the outer shores of Nootka Island, the largest island off the Vancouver Island coast. For those who wish to see this spectacular coast but prefer land, there is the Nootka Trail, one of the lesser known major coastal hikes, which runs the shore from Louie Bay to Yuquot, with a few tough headlands between beaches thrown in for good measure.

Similar to most other regions, Nootka Sound offers numerous access points to a diverse range of attractions, which vary from the storm-thrashed reefs of Nuchatlitz Provincial Park to the more protected waters of the Spanish Pilot Group.

One of the great features of this area is the greater range of options available, from cottage accommodation in Nuchatlitz or water taxis from Zeballos or Tahsis to regular scheduled freight and boat passenger runs from Gold River to Yuquot and beyond. Getting here need not be a hardship, though paddling brings the greatest rewards.

Kayaking past Rosa Island in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park, with Catala Island, Tatchu Point and the rugged outer coast in the distance. Inset: a totem in the quaint Yuquot church.

u Trail guide preview: Nootka Sound and island Access points: The main recreational hub for central Nootka Sound is Cougar Creek, a recreational campground and boat launch that is seasonally very busy. Fees apply.

Gold River is too distant along Muchalat Inlet for quick trips, but is the base for the freight and passenger service Uchuck III for transport into the sound and beyond. Access to the north is possible from either Tahsis or Zeballos. Both are popular and convenient gateways to Nuchatlitz or Catala Island, with water taxis available at both communities. A popular launch point for self-directed trips is the bridge between Little Espinosa and Espinosa Inlets.

Short trips: From Cougar Creek a journey up Hisnit or

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Tlupana inlets is a great introduction to the mountain scenery of the area, particularly the cliffs of Perpendicular Bluff in Tlupana. The area has several resorts that cater mainly to fishing groups but will likely accommodate kayakers. This enables base trips in the vicinity of the Spanish Pilot Group. Inflow and outflow winds can actually aid day trips – ride the outflows in the morning and the inflows in the afternoon, if conditions are favorable. Of course, beware variations and best to plan to travel early before the day’s winds rise.

Moderate trips: The Spanish Pilot Group and Bligh Island offer an option away from the open ocean swell, with limited

´y Zeballos y 9 Little Espinosa Inlet

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9

9F Callicum Cr. 9 Yuquot Maquinna Pt. East 9

12

9 Burdwood Bay 9 Escalante Pt. (two sites) 9 Escalante Island

Barcester Bay Hesquiat Peninsula

9

camping opportunities. A day trip to Yuquot is highly recommended. To the north, Nuchatlitz Provincial Park and Catala Provincial Park are both kayaking magnets for obvious reasons – great camping, scenery and opportunities to explore reefs, sea caves and the many other features. A scenic highlight is Nuchatlitz Inlet. See it before it is logged!

It is a treasure.

Advanced trips: The outer coast north of Tatchu Point offers a rugged getaway, if conditions allow. Tatchu Point can be treacherous, but the rewards of the beaches near Jurassic Point are substantial. A circumnavigation of Nootka Island is an adventure for veteran paddlers, with the outside of Nootka Island a definite highlight. Pick either sweeping beaches like those near Calvin Falls or pocket beaches

13 Map continues south on page 31

like those at Callicum Creek for campsites. Note the inside passage through Tahsis Inlet is prone to wind funneling, which can slow a trip considerably.

New BC Marine Trail sites: Nootka Sound is likely to evolve as issues are resolved, such as cultural sensitivity keeping locations in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park – Nootka’s most popular kayaking destination – off the official list while consultations continue. Until then, the omission of the region constitutes a key missing component of the trail.

Most of the confirmed sites in Nootka already exist by way of provincial parks (Catala Island and Bligh Island, for instance). But there are also notable new additions, with Strange Island, Marvinas Bay, Saltery Bay and Lord Waterfall newly minted as campsites – great new areas to check out.

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The BC Marine Trail

Nootka Trail: covering outer Nootka Island by foot Kayaking the outside of Nootka Island is a great adventure, but it’s not for everyone, as the water is wild and the risks potentially high. But the same great shoreline can be experienced by foot – if you take the time to overcome a few logistical hurdles.

The Nootka Trail is a world-class wilderness experience by any standard. It meanders the outer shore southward from Louie Bay then east to cover the two most spectacular sides of Vancouver Island’s largest offshore island. The tradeoff is logistics. Being on an island, the Nootka Trail requires transit of some sort to both arrive and depart. This is usually handled by a charter flight into Louie Bay’s lagoon then timing the journey’s end to leave via the Uchuck III from the dock at Yuquot (something that must be timed with care, as the Uchuck only visits twice a week). A more flexible option is water taxi, available from Tahsis (Tahtsa Dive Charters) or Zeballos (Zeballos Expeditions). Since water taxis can’t pass the shallow lagoon entrance, the arrival is a bit more circuitous, requiring a low-tide jaunt along the shore of Louie Bay then a climb over rocky shore till Third Beach, the traditional first stop of a hike. Those dropped by plane will have a simpler time crossing from the lagoon, only a

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Pausing at a rugged pocket beach near Maquinna Point. Places like these wont’ be seen close up from a kayak, making both journeys remarkably different – and worthwhile.

short distance to Third Beach. From there the hike is mostly along the beach – sometimes on sand, but mostly pebbles, cobble or even rocks. At Maquinna Point the trail heads overland again, offering access points to some caves and pocket beaches. The rocky clambor ends near a tidal channel for a lagoon that can make crossings extremely wet at higher tides.

The trail ends with an easy beach walk to Yuquot and the docks at Friendly Cove. Note that Yuquot is a Mowachaht

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First Nation reserve and a fee is charged for access (currently at $45 per person), payable on arrival at an office on the far end of the heritage church.

A highlight is always Calvin Falls, a waterfall set in the midst of the longest sand beach on the island. This is usually the second campsite of the trip after Third Beach. Overall the trail takes four relatively leisurely days. Longer is recommended to linger at some of the more scenic locations.

Nootka

The BC Marine Trails Network Officially Opens Spring 2011!

Government officials and the BC Marine Trails Network Association will be officially opening two sections of The BC Marine Trails Network Saturday May 14th at the Ladysmith Paddlefest in Ladysmith, BC. This will include access, day use and camping sites in the Gulf Islands Trails Network, and the West Coast Vancouver Island North Trail Section! Come and join us in celebrating this important event.

Before the official opening watch for us here: • The Vancouver Outdoor Adventure & Travel Show Vancouver Convention Centre March 19 & 20th, 2011 • The Vancouver Island Outdoor Adventure Expo Pearkes Recreation Centre,Victoria - April 1, 2 & 3, 2011

Follow us online at

www.bcmarinetrails.org The BCMTNA Vision: A Marine Trails Network, Designed by Paddlers, Secured by Government.

BCMTNA MEMBER CLUBS: • Campbell River Paddlers • Comox Valley Paddlers Club • Cowichan Kayak and Canoe Club • Nanaimo Paddlers • Pacific International Kayak Association • Recreational Canoeing Association of BC • Sea Kayak Association of BC • South Island Sea Kayak Association • Victoria Canoe and Kayak Club

Sponsors of the BCMTN include:

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27

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re celebrating

20 years!

And weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re giving you the birthday presents.

In our online edition, click here to read Vol. 1, Issue 1

Introducing our grand prize, courtesy Atlantis Kayaks: The Atlantis Titan VI

Coast and Kayak Magazine is proud to offer our readers the chance to paddle home this custom Atlantis Titan VI. Hand-crafted on Vancouver Island, it features a clear gelcoat hull and a two-tone black and grey fade paint scheme on the deck. The custom layup is reinforced kevlar, making for 28

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

SPRING 2011

a light yet strong frame perfect for a quick outing or, thanks to the ample storage volume, a long-distance expedition.

You can read more about this kayak on page 39, or click the green button online for a video demonstration of the kayak in action.

Prizes available through this edition: Win in March: Win in April: Win in May:

Suspenz Boat Stand The new Boat Stand from Suspenz is compact, lightweight and portable. See page 36 for details.

Kayaking rec maps The Wild Coast Recreation Map and Trip Planner series includes the Broken Group Islands, Clayoquot Sound, Discovery Islands, the Gulf Islands, Broughton Archipelago and the North Coast. The complete set will be a treasured resource for anyone who kayaks the BC coast, and those who like to dream.

RapidUp Sail Turn your kayak into a sailboat with this durable, fast and efficient kayaking accessory. We have it here at Coast&Kayak, we’ll be testing it for a future article, then sending it to a lucky winner. The RapidUp Sail’s curved frame mounts to the deck of the kayak and can be deployed or stowed on the fly.

Here’s how to win: No purchase is necessary. Here are the steps.

1. Subscribe to Coast&Kayak Magazine online. It’s free. This will entitle you to notification of upcoming magazines and a quick link to read us free online.

2. Find the link embedded in the online magazine. It’s not hard: just click on the green dots. One will bring up the link.

Follow it, then fill out the entry form and click to submit. That’s it!

Why make it an online contest? Well, we’re adding content and features to our online edition that you won’t find in print, and we want to introduce you to the extra value. Plus we have been an online magazine since about 1996, and have a strong internet following. Not everyone can get a print copy, but everyone can read us online, so this is a way to be able to say thanks to all our readers. Good luck and here’s to the next 20 years!

The small print: All collected email addresses are confidential and will only be used for online subscription notification and/or contest entries. No information will be given to a third party at any time for any reason. Contest void where prohibited by law. Geographic location may restrict delivery to some winners. While every effort will be made to ship free to the winner, in some locations freight costs will have to be borne by the winner.

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The BC Marine Trail

Map continues north on page 25 Boat Basin (3 sites) 9

9 Barcester Bay

13 Hesquiat Trail

Hesquiat Harbour

F

Hesquiat Peninsula Provincial Park

Clayoquot Sound is the most accessible of the regions of the West Coast Vancouver Island North marine trail, but don’t hold that against it. The bustling little surf, resort and tourist trap of Tofino, blessed by paved highway access (tumultuous as it is), is the obligatory starting point, but once on water you are quickly immersed in wilderness. Turn right at the kayak launch (yes, Tofino actually has a designated kayak launch), and head into some brilliantly mountainous passages that run between Vancouver and Meares islands, or any number of smaller islands that dot the region for a journey through protected waters. Turn left from Tofino (that’s west, by the way) and head out towards incredible open ocean, storm-battered, reef-strewn shoreline and sprawling beaches that mark Vargas Island and other smaller camping options. Head straight north and leave everything behind, either taking the easier waters on the inland of Flores Island to reach the pristine beauty of

Access points: Tofino is the only town that borders the waters of Clayoquot Sound, making it the de facto starting point for almost any trip into this region. The kayak launch is located next to the main government dock off First Street.

Parking is available nearby, though a fee may apply. One alternative is within Pacific Rim National Park at Grice Bay, but parking is restricted overnight at the launch. Water taxis cater mainly to the tourist trade here, not kayaks, though kayakers may be accommodated by some service providers.

A regular and reasonably priced passenger shuttle runs to Ahousat on Flores Island, solving access for hikers of the Wild Side Trail.

Short trips: A traditional beginner’s adventure from Tofino is Lemmens Inlet set in Meares Island. It avoids the currents on all but the short crossing of Duffin Passage. A visit can be combined with hikes of either the Big Cedar Trail or an ascent of Lone Cone for spectacular views of the sound.

Moderate trips: Vargas Island is a great destination for intermediate paddlers. Though channels can have strong currents near Tofino, an easy route is on the inside via Maurus Channel to Dick and Jane Beach on the northwest

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Shelter Inlet or take the outer waters of Flores where the humpback and grey whales frolic year-round.

Head far enough and reach Hot Springs Cove, a renowned attraction with a heated mineral spring that feeds a rocky channel set just above the waterline for a perfect soak. Water taxis and floatplanes feed a steady supply of tourists, though, and make the shore of Maquinna Provincial Park toward Hesquiat Harbour a better wilderness option for kayakers.

Several remote trails offer opportunities for land access, from the short, pleasant and civilized Big Cedar Trail on Meares Island to the wild mountain climb of the Wild Side Trail on Flores Island.

For the most adventurous, there’s the rarely visited beach walk of Hesquiat Peninsula. Take your pick of hikes and/or paddles to suit your ambitions and interests. There’s always something for the adventurous spirit in Clayoquot Sound.

corner of the island, or any number of secondary campsites on Vargas or nearby islands. A more demanding route is south of the island to spectacular Ahous Bay, noting the water around the La Croix Group can be tricky.

A circumnavigation of Meares Island is a moderately ambitious agenda through mostly protected and serene passages with a few currents to watch along the way.

Advanced trips: Kayakers willing to brave a bit of swell on exposed water can reach Whitesand Cove on Flores Island, while veterans will enjoy the achievement of reaching Hesquiat Peninsula. The trip to Cow Bay can be a long weekend adventure (done as a Coast&Kayak Magazine trip in late September 2008, pictured here), but a week is recommended. If Hesquiat Peninsula is too ambitious, Shelter Inlet is scenic with waterfalls and reef-strewn side channels to explore. While Hot Springs Cove is a worthwhile destination, crowds can be an annoyance during peak hours. Consider Hesquiat Harbour the better goal.

New BC Marine Trail sites: There are no designated sites for this region yet as the marine trail process works its way south. The sites shown here are already established, and will hopefully compose the backbone of this leg of the trail.

Clayoquot Sound

Sydney Inlet Provincial Park Strathcona Provincial Park

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Grice Bay y

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The BC Marine Trail

u Trail guide preview: how to run the whole WCVIN It was, in a word, a slog. I can find no better way to describe the run friend Carey Lockwood and I took down the yet-to-exist WCVIN in late August 2009. We battled our way down to Tofino against strong southerlies for most of the 15 days. My favorite coastal scenery was viewed mostly from a distance of a kilometer or more offshore to avoid the danger of high swell on hidden rocks. (We didn’t know at the time, but the unseasonal swell was residual from a storm off Hawaii).

Regardless, it was a great adventure, with a few good days of serene paddling in the mix, particularly around the Bunsby Islands.

Paddler Carey Lockwood slogs past Cape Cook on the outside of Brooks Peninsula.

Many of the photos that accompany the BC Marine Trail preview are from that trip. Photography was limited, though, during the battles, such as around Escalante

Point, the south end of Nootka Island and Hesquiat Peninsula, when our endurance was put to the limit. (I tried to videotape the waves crashing at Estevan Point. It was not terribly successful, with a Youtube version getting one response so far – a thumbs down. So much for that effort.)

While a run is recommended for confident veteran paddlers, the trail has enough access points that portions can be enjoyed in smaller, less imposing trips. But if you do run it, plan on three weeks to fully enjoy your time on the water. There will be places you will want to linger. Trust me!

- John

Kimantas

u Where to go for more BC Marine Trails information Websites: • The official BC Marine Trails Networks Association website is www.bcmarinetrails.org. Visit for updated route information, membership details and news bulletins.

• coastandkayak.com has detailed information by region for the entire BC coast, along with maps and a directory of archived magazine articles for each area. Visit www.coastandkayak.com/PaddleBC.html. Find information by map location on www.planetkayak.net.

Guide books: The Wild Coast, Vol. 1 by John Kimantas (Whitecap, 2005 and 2011): Specific kayaking information location by location. Much of the information presented here is drawn from the Wild Coast

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knowledge base (John is the Wild Coast author and Coast&Kayak editor). Updated for 2011 and available soon. One of a series of Wild Coast guides covering kayaking the entire coast of British Columbia. Order online at www.coastandkayak.com Sea Kayak Around Vancouver Island by Doug Alderson (Rocky Mountain Books, 2004). A handy pocket guide for the greater goal of circumnavigating the island. One of a series of books by Rocky Mountain Books on kayaking regions of the island.

Tours and services: Our Tour Directory begins page 34. We’ve marked tour operators and service providers who operate within the area of the West Coast Vancouver Island North section of the trail with a “WCVIN” designation.

SALES * RENTALS * INSTRUCTION * DAY TOURS

ComoxValleyKayaks.com Need a new kayak ?

Or maybe a PFD ?

We’d love to help you out . . .

Comox Valley Kayaks & Canoes by the water in Courtenay , Vancouver Island, BC

1-888-545-5595

“ WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP ” SPRING 2011

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Tour/Service Directory

By Adam Bolonsky

Tours and Services: British Columbia

N WCVI Designates West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail service provider N WCVI

Paddle with sea otters

N WCVI

Kayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island, Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove. Kayak rentals.

CEDARS INN rooms and restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge. Good food, friendly service.

Phone: 1-866-222-2235 Web: www. zeballosexpeditions.com Email: info@zeballosexpeditions.com

N WCVI

N WCVI

Wilderness Sea Kayaking Vancouver Island Kayaking Tours and Wilderness Retreat. Guided ecotourism adventures in remote Kyuquot, the Bunsby Islands, and Brooks Peninsula.

Unmatched base camp, spectacular kayaking, diverse wildlife, and First Nations cultural interactions.

Phone: 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511 Web: www.westcoastexpeditions.com Email: info@westcoastexpeditions.com

N WCVI

Odyssey Kayaking Nootka transport and rentals Experience the best kayaking in the Pacific Northwest from Tahsis, B.C. in the heart of Nootka Sound. Kayak rentals and transport to Nuchatlitz Park, Yuquot (Friendly Cove), Bligh Island Marine Park and beyond.

Phone: 1-866-934-6365 Website: www.tahtsadivecharters.com N WCVI Email: dive@tahtsadivecharters.com

Tours and Services: Tropical

BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip planning. 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port Hardy.

Phone: 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318 Email: odyssey@island.net Web: www.odysseykayaking.com

N WCVI

Tofinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kayak Centre Tofinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kayaking centre providing daily sea kayak tours and kayak rentals since 1988. Pick up books and supplies for the West Coast lifestyle. Enjoy espresso on our waterfront deck.

Phone: 1-800-TOFINO-4 (1-800-863-4664) Web: www.tofinoseakayaking.com Email: info@tofinoseakayaking.com

Tours and Services: East Canada

.CA MADAWASKA KANU CENTRE

1-888-652-5268 Located near Algonquin Park, Ontario. Offers personal instruction from beginner to expert levels. Weekend and 5-day courses.

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Tours and Services: Alaska

Kayak Transport Co. A Mothership Serving SE Alaska. Kayaking from the comforts of a mothership for a week. Paddling our boats and exploring fantastic scenery and wildlife.

Eating fresh caught Alaskan seafood. How good does it get?!

Email: staff@kayaktransport.com Web: www.kayaktransport.com Phone: (206) 719-0976

Tours and Services: Yukon

Kanoe People Ltd. Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales, guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge.

Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years.

Web: www.kanoepeople.com Email: info@kanoepeople.com Phone: 867-668-4899

Tours and Services: Europe

Natura Viva: Sea kayak Finland Enjoy the unique Finnish coastline and the Baltic Sea archipelago, or the lake country labyrinth of waterways. Day trips, multi-day guided tours, selfguided tours and kayak rentals are all available. All our guides are trained professionals and our equipment is top of the line.

Web: www.seakayakfinland.com Email: info@naturaviva.fi Phone: +358 50 376 8585

Tour/Service Directory

Eco Adventures & Education since 1991 Eclectic itineraries in the Spectacular Gulf Islands

Kayaking Day Tours, Expeditions, Youth Camps & Guides Courses Two Kayak friendly accommodations on Salt Spring Island 1 888 529-2567 • 250 537 2553 • www.islandescapades.com

Lund Kayak Tours & Rentals Kayak tours, lessons, rentals & marine delivery.

Desolation Sound, Mitlenatch Island, Copeland Islands marine parks. Personalized service, stunning scenery, fascinating history, delicious organic lunches. Family / child friendly programs.

Phone: 1.888.552.5558 OR 604.483.7900 Web: www.terracentricadventures.com Email: fun@terracentricadventures.com

Tours and Services: Haida Gwaii

Kayak Desolation Sound Rent kayaks from waterfront locations in Lund or Okeover Inlet. Try the Famous Aquarium Kayak Tour or snorkel at Urchin Alley. All-inclusive multi-day trips into Desolation & Mountains.

Phone: Toll free 1-866-617-4444 Web: www.bcseakayak.com Email: info@bcseakayak.com

N WCVI

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group, Clayoquot Sound , Broughton Archipelago, Kyuquot Sound , Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands. Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995. See you on the water!

Phone: 250-247-0189 Web: www.kayaktoursbc.com

Wilderness Adventures for Women Kayak beautiful Vancouver Island, spectacular mountain vistas, old growth rainforests, amazing wildlife, rentals, lessons and tours, open year round.

Women’s Transformative Journey by Kayak.

All Women - All Fun!!

Phone: 250.755.6702, toll free 1.866.955.6702 Web: www.adventuress.ca Email: Jan@adventuress.ca

SPRING 2011

Kayak Haida Gwaii Among the world's top paddling destinations, Gwaii Haanas is an awe-inspiring oasis of wilderness at the southern tip of Haida Gwaii. Local outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures since 2000.

Web: www.gckayaking.com Email: paddle@gckayaking.com Phone: 250-559-4682

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New Gear

Maui Surf Co. Touring Whitewater Recreational

If you are a kayaker forever on the lookout for versatile kayaking footwear, Maui Surf Company has unveiled the Cirrus, a shoe that combines the sleekness and comfort of an athletic shoe and the

Cascade Creek

This innovative little company from Huntington, New York, adds to its lineup in 2011 with the YakCatcher, a clip-on rod holder for kayaks and canoes. Part-time kayak fishermen and women will appreciate there are no holes to drill, no tools needed, it is fully adjustable and quick to install and remove. No need for stories now about the one that got away. www.cascadecreek.com.

Crystal-X Proudly Canadian

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ventilation and draining ability of a water shoe. As you can imagine for a company based out of Hawaii, the shoe is best used in warm weather (60F and above). Which counts out the last six months here in the Pacific Northwest. Maybe a version with fur lining is next. www.mauisurfcompany.com

Wild Coast

First released in 2005, The Wild Coast Vol. 1 set a new standard for kayaking guide books for the British Columbia coast. It returns in 2011 with new and updated information in its second edition, mirroring the area covered by the new West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail. It and an updated BC Coastal Recreation Atlas Vol. 1 will be released this spring.

Order direct at www.coastandkayak.com.

New Gear

New Portable Boat Stands

KayakPro If you’re like us here in the Pacific Northwest, your paddling muscles gather as much dust each winter as your paddle. For recreational paddlers this may not be a huge issue, but for kayak racers, it’s a tragedy. Enter KayakPro with the Multistroke designed for dragon boat athletes, outrigger, sit-and-switch and pro canoe athletes. The machine replicates the resistance and on-the-water feel of an actual boat by careful attention to blade entry, the relationship between the forces on the shaft and the top guiding hand. Plus you can select the ergometer particular to your sport.

Dustpan not included. www.kayakpro.com

For Kayaks, Canoes, SUP’s

TM

Suspenz.com 866.787.7369

Suspenz Storage Racks Suspenz arrived a few years back with their high-quality distinctive yellow storage racks. They’ve now expanded their line with a new compact, lightweight and portable 24inch boat stand. Use it for washing, repairs or storage. The four-leg sturdy aluminum core stand is stable on flat or uneven ground and uses UV-resistant webbing to protect the hull from damage and scratches. Two stands per kit fit into a mesh bag with carry handles. www.suspenz.com

er Wat es ur t Ven

British Columbia

over 30 titles

C Rec oast rea Ma tion ps

original outdoor maps specialized for sea kayaking

Baja Mexico

NE W DVD video guides NE (available later in 2011) W

www.CoastalWatersGroup.com

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Kayaks Gary Doran, a Victoria, BC-based kayaking instructor, puts the new Looksha Elite through the paces.

Click here online for a video presentation.

A new Elite option

Necky has expanded its cornerstone Looksha series in 2011 with a new Elite model that will be of interest to kayakers looking for a high-end performance model with a rudder and touring capacity.

The combination makes the Elite a highly versatile model with a bit more emphasis on performance than the popular Looksha 17 but without having to resort to the more Brit-boat style of the Chatham series. The Elite trims down the Looksha 17 by 1.75 inches for a nimble 22-inch width, aiding speed, tracking and performance with some trade-off in stability for beginners.

For comfort an aggressively-styled raised foredeck aids leg room and thigh bracing while performance paddlers will appreciate

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Necky Looksha Elite specs

Length 17’ Hull ShallowV

Beam 22"

Depth 12.5"

Cockpit 32"L x 16"W

Chine Design: Med/Full Swede form

the low rear deck for ease of rolling.

The Elite shaves six inches off the Looksha 17 Composite’s length, arriving at just 17 feet, but still with good storage capacity (Necky managed to fit in thirteen 15-liter dry bags; we didn’t have enough bags to try this, so we’ll take their word).

Rudder pedals are SmartTrack that utilize toe control and a easy-lift locking adjustment that is simple to use on the fly.

SPRING 2011

Total storage Weight 201 litres 52/47 lbs

Base model Fibreglass

Options Carbon

Control Rudder

The seat is Necky’s durable molded foam with an adjustable back band. The moulded seat won’t retain water and includes the option of placing support under the foam to raise the legs to offer sciatic nerve relief and other comfort benefits.

The Elite comes in both fiberglass and carbon options, and weighs in at 52 pounds; the carbon option shaves five pounds off that for a remarkably light tourer.

Kayaks Click here online for a video presentation.

Secure Your Next Adventure Cable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest, easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak.

Testing our custom Titan VI in cold water at Maple Bay.

Setting loose a Titan If the name Titan VI evokes images of a big and beefy kayak, you’re only partly right.

The beef is there – it measures in at 18’3”, making it best enjoyed by paddlers 5’5” and above – but otherwise Atlantis’s flagship touring kayak is simply what an all-purpose touring kayak should be: well-rounded for features and performance.

Where Atlantis did push the envelope is in the production details. If you opt for the kevlar layup you are looking at one of the true high-end handmade kayaks. Add a custom fade paint theme on the deck and clear gelcoat on the hull and you are looking at a one-of-a-kind boat in a world of mass production. Such was our test sample, and the one we’ll be giving away courtesy Atlantis Kayaks (see the giveaway details page 28-29).

Made on Vancouver Island, the Titan

VI is a typical West Coast cruiser – a good clean design for ocean waters with a relatively soft chine, a good stable 24” width and a rudder for easy control. Nothing radical and no surprises. Those looking for carefully thought out details will find many things to like on the VI, such as the polypropelene rope for the rudder line that won’t hold salt water, no drill holes in the deck for the seat and a stretch point in the deck lines held taut by the handle.

While small points to mention, it’s the myriad of these and other thoughtful design points that make the Titan VI interesting.

Those looking for versatility and comfort in the seating will find six straps on the backband and a sliding seat for that exact perfect fit. Those who appreciate seeing the Kevlar web in the design will enjoy the clearcoat hull – kid gloves sold separately.

www.lassosecuritycables.com 707-498-9905

www.bckayaks.com

(250)391-03331

nwca@shaw.ca

Atlantis Titan VI specs Length 18’3” Hull ShallowV

Beam 24" Chine Soft

Depth 13"

Cockpit 31"L x 17"W

Design: Fishform

outrigger canoe egrometer by

Total storage Weight 392 litres 58/52 lbs

Base model Fibreglass

Options Kevlar

Control Rudder

“Paddle to your heart’s content”

+1 914 740 5055 KayakPro.com

SPRING 2011

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Kayaks

Seeing double with Delta You have to be in the right situation to fully benefit from a double kayak.

First, you have to love the person you paddle with more than the independence of kayaking a single (doubles aren’t called “divorce boats” for nothing).

Then you have to have the space to store it and the brawn to move it, as many doubles can weight in at more than 100 pounds.

If you have the necessary Zen and Herculean credentials to be still in the market for a tandem, then the Delta 20T comes with one huge advantage off the mark: it weighs in at just 82 pounds, considerably less than many other doubles that may tempt you.

It does this while still managing a spacious central hatch, providing a luxurious 716 litres of storage in three compartments – enough to make this a bona fide candidate for that dream trip to Alaska.

If your interests are closer to home and family, the 20T has another nice touch. The central compartment doubles as a third passenger compartment – nothing new for large doubles – but with a curved bulkhead

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Delta 20T specs Length 19’6” Hull ShallowV

Beam 26.5" Chine Hard

Depth 14"

Cockpit 32.5"L x 18"W

Design: Symmetrical

to provide added extra leg room for a child without having to lengthen the boat. What you lose is space alongside the seat in the forward cockpit, an area not likely to be missed. The result keeps the 20T under 20 feet in length.

One unlikely facet of the 20T is the

Browse kayaks online.

Our online Kayak Buyer’s Guide lists hundreds of kayaks by make, model, length and type. Browse multiple categories, view photos, read specifications and quick-link directly to the manufacturer’s website.

Your dream kayak awaits!

www.coastandkayak.com

SPRING 2011

Total storage Weight 716 litres 82 lbs

Base model Thermoform

Options --

Control Rudder

ability to talk about performance. The hull is ShallowV with a hard chine and considerable rocker, meaning it’s a good candidate for surf, rock gardens and “play” areas that most traditional doubles tend to avoid. Edge in tandem, turn on a dime. Skilled kayakers willing to give up independence (if there are such people) will be drawn to the 20T like beach flies to intertidal kelp.

Like so many boats these days, the Delta 20T’s features are well thought out.

For instance, the seat is easily removed, doubling as a camp seat for extra comfort.

The construction of the 20T is thermoform – an ABS base with an acrylic cap that provides both impact and UV resistance. Is it better than fiberglass?

We won’t wade into that debate! But it is definitely more affordable.

Ge ttin

8

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C L O T H I N G • F O O T W E A R • O U T D O O R G E A R • K AYA K S • C A N O E S • S U P • I N S T RU C T I O N • R E N TA L S • T O U R S

A SIMPLE CONCEPT ...KNOWLEGABLE FRIENDLY STAFF ...TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS e Sin c

19

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www.oceanriver.com

ON-LINE SALES, GUIDED TOURS AND INSTRUCTION

“Getting You Out There”

SPRING 2011

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C L O T H I N G • F O O T W E A R • O U T D O O R G E A R • K AYA K S • C A N O E S • S U P • I N S T RU C T I O N • R E N TA L S • T O U R S

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There Out u Yo

Starting Out

A

KAYAK is one of the best recreational investments anyone can make. But the initial outlay of cash and choices you have for those dollars can seem daunting. So how to pick the correct one? Here are some points to consider, courtesy of Chris Ladner, the owner of Ecomarine on Granville Island in Vancouver, a consultant to thousands of kayak buyers over the years.

1. Know what you’re buying your kayak for.

This sounds obvious, but it’s not. “You need to be thinking not just what you imagine what the kayak could be used for, but what you intend to use it for further down the road,” says Chris.

Here’s where a crystal ball might come in handy. You may imagine tours of distant shores in Alaska, but in reality if all you will be doing is lake paddling from your cottage, a recreational boat will suffice. Here’s the general types and the purpose they’ll serve.

Recreational boats: These boats are ideal for an hour or two in the bay, and work equally well from the deck of a yacht, motorboats or a summer cottage. These boats are generally shorter – 9.5 to 12 feet in length – and can have a range of options and material styles that dictate the cost. One important consideration is buoyancy. Look for a hatch and bulkhead that will ensure the boat won’t sink if swamped. If there is no bulkhead, you’ll need to install flotation bags before your trip.

Day trip boats: These are longer recreational boats starting at about 14 feet, resulting in more glide, speed and efficiency.

One consideration is the boats may be narrower, which aids performance but means less stability.

Touring boats: If you’re looking for 42

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

When buying, a game plan helps. Here are some hints on how to navigate the options.

Click here in the online edition for a video on how to buy a kayak.

more than just day trips you’re looking at boats longer than 14 feet to manage the storage demands and sea conditions you’ll meet. Most touring boats are in the general range of about 17 feet in length, making them faster, more efficient and capable of hauling gear – often several week’s worth, if need be.

Other options: Kayaks can serve very particular purposes, such as the racing kayaks, which are very long but also very narrow; or fishing kayaks, which are usually sit-on-top, extra wide for stability and have lots of features specifically designed for fishing.

2. Set your budget.

The initial investment may seem large, especially for the high-end boats, but keep in mind after the purchase there are few incidentals such as lift tickets or launching fees (at least not yet). In addition, kayaks hold their value and won’t need replacing for years, possibly decades – if ever.

Naturally, you need not spend much if budget is a consideration. Recreational SPRING 2011

boats can be the least expensive, but still with a vast range depending on the features and construction. The addage applies: you get what you pay for.

3. Think about the features and benefits you want.

There are lots of different things you can get for your kayak, and a good first place to look is the hatches. The arrangements and styles vary by model, but a popular style is the two-piece with a neoprene cover below the strapped-on hatch. A style proven seaworthy is the onepiece rubber hatch, usually available as an oval that simply pulls off around a lip then pushes back on again.

The trick is matching the features you want with the style of kayak. For instance, rubber hatches may not be an option for the style of recreation boat you’re seeking.

The control device is another key consideration. A rudder controlled through cables attached to foot pedals is a popular configuration and allows for easy steering.

An alternative is a skeg, a fin that pops down to add stability in wind and waves.

This requires the additional skill of learning how to use a paddle blade to turn the boat.

The cross-section of your hull should also be part of your evaluation. The rounder the hull the faster it’s going to be, but at the cost of stability. A flatter bottom and defined keel will enhance stability and (with the keel) tracking.

Also, consider the amount of rocker in the hull – that is, curvature in the shape.

“The more rocker you have, the easier it is for the boat to turn, but the deeper the boat sits in the water so the slower it’s going to be,” says Chris. “So the tradeoff is lots of tracking means straight-line, fast speed and efficiency but harder to turn, and the

How to buy a kayak

by Chris Ladner and Coast&Kayak Magazine more rocker means easier to maneuver in rough weather but slower.”

The construction type will be another key factor in choosing a kayak, which in large part is affected by budget. Plastic (polyethelene) is the most economical, quite tough and rugged but it’s a bit slower in the

water and can get gouged, as it is a softer material. Thermoform is a middle-of-theroad option. It has the ruggedness of the softer plastic but the characteristics of the fiberglass for speed.

Higher in price are the fiberglass and finally kevlar options. These are considered

the highest performing type of kayak, and also good for weight and durability. < Thanks to Ecomarine owner Chris Ladner for sharing his expertise for this article. You can visit the store online at www.ecomarine.com.

w w w. n i c . b c . c a

Instruction/Education

Kayak Academy (Seattle) Experience IS Necessary! Since 1991, the Kayak Academy has been providing the best sea kayak experience you can get. Count on us for all your paddling gear.

Phone: 206.527.1825 or toll-free 866.306.1825 Web: www.kayakacademy.com Email: info@kayakacademy.com

Sometimes it’s a fine line between work & play.

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love.

Call 1-888-293-3177 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit www.nic.bc.ca

W H E R E D O Y O U WA N T TO GO?

Hooksum Outdoor School West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training. Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors. Certification courses include: Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I & II, Introduction to KayakingInstructors Course, Advanced Wilderness First Aid, Lifesaving, BOAT & ROC(M). Visiting Kayak & Hiking Groups: Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse. Meals and overnight stays available.

Phone: 250.670.1120 Web: www.hooksumschool.com Email: info@hooksumschool.com

SPRING 2011

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Wildlife for kayakers

by James Dorsey

F

OR THOSE OF US who love to paddle coastal waters, there is a feathery companion whose historical link to coastal man may date back further than any other seabird.

The ibis is a wading bird, often mistaken for a heron. It frequents coastal shallows, lagoons, marshes and bay, and its historic connections with humans can be traced all the way back to the bible.

They are of the family Threskiornithidae, (order Ciconiiformes) and their name is believed to be Greek, borrowed from the ancient Egyptian “HIB.” There are about 30 known species and 13 separate genus of this varied and curious creature.

I have often glided silently by them in the marshy wetlands of Southern California where I live, and also in the mangroves of Baja, Mexico, where I frequently paddle. They walk along nobly as they use their long curved beak that they often bury up to their eyes to probe in the mud for mollusks, crustaceans, and small fish.

They are found in warm latitudes throughout the world with some of them migrating to warmer climates in wintertime. They can stand two and a half feet (75 cm) in height on their long legs, and vary in color and plumage depending on the particular species. All are identifiable by the orange beak. Because of the beak’s unique curved shape and strength, the ibis will also probe into grass to find worms, helping to aerate the soil as it feeds.

They nest either on the ground or in short bushes near the coast, building homes of small tree limbs. The female will lay three to five green or blue eggs often with brown speckles. They are social within their species and often nest colonially with both male and female caring for the eggs and newborn hatchlings. They feed their young small fish, frogs, and sometimes human

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detritus that both male and female collect.

During mating they are known to make grunts and croaking noises, but other than that are usually silent. When hunting they can draft low over the water looking for prey, riding the thermal currents just off the caps of waves. While rooting along in shallows they will usually be found in pairs, one standing watch while the other hunts.

Among the species, the glossy ibis is found throughout the lower eastern United SPRING 2011

States and as far as Europe and Australia, while the white face and white ibis are only found in the Americas. The scarlet ibis, bright red or pink as its name implies, is native to South America where it is often hunted for its bright plumage. Because it was so devastatingly hunted there, the scarlet ibis was introduced to the United States in the 1960s in hopes of maintaining the species and it is now doing well there. It is still the national bird of Trinidad and Tobago.

The ancient ibis The sacred ibis, the largest of them all, is found in coastal Africa, usually south of the Sahara, but is no longer seen in Egypt where it was once worshipped as sacred.

In the Birecik region of Turkey, near Mount Ararat, where Noah’s ark supposedly came to rest after the great flood, local legend claims the northern bald ibis to be the first bird released

by Noah as a symbol of fertility, and because of this strong local belief, it allowed that particular bird to thrive in that region long after it became extinct across the rest of Europe.

In ancient Egypt, the god Thoth, symbol of wisdom and knowledge, was often depicted as a man with the head of an ibis.

Throughout Egypt there are murals and statues of the ibis, and at the city of Hermopolis the birds were specifically bred for sacrifices. In Saqqara, home of the famous step pyramid south of Giza, a building known as the Serapeum was used to bury bulls worshipped by a religious cult, and in it is confines the mummified remains of one and a half million ibises was uncovered along with thousands of mummified falcons.

In the southern United States, local folk claim the ibis is the last animal to take cover at the approach of a hurricane and the first to reappear after the storm. Because of this the mascot of the University of Miami is an American white ibis.

They are magnificent to watch in flight as they crane their elegant necks forward while extending their long legs straight out to the rear. On a recent paddle in Mexico I was privileged to watch dozens of white ibis soaring low over the water, riding the thermals while spotting baitfish, then landing all around my boat to feast as I sat there, silently marveling at their quiet beauty. For at least a thousand years the kayak has been one of mankind’s steadiest forms of coastal transport and the ibis was there long before. < You can follow James Dorsey’s work at his website, www. jamesdorsey.com. You can also read past articles by Dorsey in this series on seabirds at www.coastandkayak.com/Articles_wildlife.html

Kayak Repair & Refit

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#300 – 8435 Bowfort Rd, NW Calgary, AB, T3B 2V2 E: paddler@aquabatics.com / P: 877 440 9283

www.paddlealberta.com SPRING 2011

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

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Skillset

By Alex Matthews

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Set your course dead ahead? No!

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N SOME SITUATIONS, one very useful strategy for navigation is to deliberately aim away from your intended target. While this may initially seem counterintuitive, intentionally “aiming off ” can be the most reliable way of finding your way to your destination.

Let’s say that you are making a crossing to a small campsite. From your starting point, the far shore appears very uniform in geography and there are no distinctive landmarks to denote your intended campsite’s location.

Knowing the campsite’s position on your chart, you can set a compass course directly to it. But if you should fail to pick out the site by the time you reach the far shore, you won’t know which way to turn (right or left) in order to reach it. The site might be very close by on your right, but if you guess incorrectly and turn left instead, you will waste a lot of time before doubling back and finally locating the elusive campsite.

A better strategy is to intentionally aim off to one side or the other of your target.

That way you are guaranteed to know 46

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Aim off How aiming away from your target can get you there more reliably which way to turn in order to locate your goal.

Working with the chart, aim off to a point that is a predetermined distance from your final destination. Pick, for example, to cross to a point half a nautical mile to the right of the campsite.

If, like most paddlers, you cruise at about 3 knots, then it will take you about 10 minutes to cover that half nautical mile.

Your new plan then, is to paddle across the channel, hit the far shore, turn left and paddle along the shoreline for

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approximately 10 minutes. This should put you very close to the campsite.

In this scenario the shoreline is serving as both a “backstop” and as a “handrail” that will guide you to your goal. It’s also worth noting that this strategy works just as well in dense fog or at night.

In another scenario we might use the same strategy but with a particular emphasis on the backstop and handrail aspects. Imagine this time that we are crossing to a far point of a distant island completely enveloped in fog. If we set a

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Aiming off compass course aimed directly at the point, any minor drift to the right will result in missing the island altogether. Aiming off to the left at the bulk of the landmass precludes passing by the point, and instead sets us up with a backstop and a useful handrail that will guide us safely to the point.

When navigating, a backstop is not necessarily a physical barrier. When we calculate a distance and the time we require to cover it, we are using time as a very effective backstop.

In a final example, the paddler embarks on a crossing to a long narrow island lost in fog. Rather than attempting to hit the narrow point directly, the kayaker instead uses time as a backstop.

Working from the chart, he establishes a position past the point (in this case let’s say 3 nautical miles), and some distance off of the left coast of the island (let’s say half a nautical mile). Since the kayaker cruises at 3 knots, the plan is to paddle for one hour, make a 90-degree right-hand turn off his original course, and then paddle for 10 minutes to bring him to the island’s shoreline. From there he knows to turn right and handrail his way along the coast to the point and his campsite.

When aiming off, it’s obviously of primary importance to have done all the chart and compass work before setting forth. Because compass courses and paddling times for each leg of a journey can easily get jumbled, it’s best to write them down. I’ve found myself second-guessing my memory in thick fog more than once.

Some like to write directly on charts, while others will record courses and times on their foredecks with a wax pencil.

photo: M. Scriver

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< Alex Matthews is the author of “Sea Kayaking Rough Waters” available at www.helipress.com. More of Alex’s Skillset articles plus other skills columns can be read online at on our Skills page at www.coastandkayak.com/Articles_skills.html

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SPRING 2011

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

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Paddle Meals

by Hilary Masson

Recipes with a sting Natural plants can add flare to your cooking, with a surprising option being a good-old patch of nettles

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NE MEMORABLE springtime kayak trip I discovered some good stinging nettle habitat in and around the Flat Top Islands south of Gabriola Island. My good friend is an endangered species biologist, and we set off in our kayaks to explore around the Gulf Islands looking for great blue heron nests. Paddling to a known heron rookery we got out of our boats for a closer look with the spotting scope in order to count the number of fluffy squawking chicks.

Herons typically nest inland from their shoreline feeding habitat in large Douglas fir or broadleaf maple trees, seeking protection from their main predator, bald eagles. Upon nearing a big fir tree we found a phenomenal patch of nettle thriving on nitrogen-enriched soil from the heron poop. This meant that we couldn’t approach too close to the nests in fear of being stung by the big patch of nettle. Most of the nest sites we visited around the Gulf Islands had similar patches of nettle growing underneath the large trees.

Great protection!

The spring is an ideal time to not only get out on the water to enjoy the wildlife but also to harvest edible plants. When paddling this spring, try collecting some native plants to add local flair to your camp cooking. This is the best season for collecting many edible plants such as dandelion, fiddleheads and nettle. These can all add nutrition and flavor to your meals, but our local nettle has to be my 48

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An exploration of the Flat Top Islands near Gabriola can be made more interesting if you keep your eyes open for edibles.

personal favorite. Stinging nettle is a ‘super food’ providing the highest plant source of iron. Nettle also contains other minerals such as calcium, magnesium, silicon, sulphur, copper, chromium, zinc, cobalt, potassium and phosphorus as well as high amounts of vitamins A, C, D, E, and K. This ‘super food’ was previously used to prevent and treat scurvy (which I’m sure is a big concern for all you sea kayakers during long expeditions). Some may be surprised to learn that nettle is not only nutritious but also flavorful. First Nations had many uses for our common nettle, including drying and processing the strong and silky fibers to make twine, rope and fishing nets. Nettle can be dried and stored for a flavorful tea, picked fresh and substituted in any recipe that calls for SPRING 2011

greens such as spinach, Swiss chard or kale.

Nettle thrives in the rich moist soils of shaded fields, clearings, along streams and, as noted, under great blue heron nests. The young shoots spring up in early April, and the leaves can be collected throughout the summer. To identify this plant look at the stems. They are ribbed with fine spines and can grow up to 1.8 meters tall. The leaves are coarsely toothed and grow in opposite pairs, covered with fine stinging hairs. Each leaf can grow to be an average of 10 cm long.

Another way to identify this plant is to look for the tassels of very small greenish flowers that hang from the leaf nodes. When the hairs on nettle leaves contact your skin, a small amount of formic acid is injected, creating a powerful stinging sensation which can last several hours; hence the name.

Avoid stinging by wearing gloves, or cover your hands with a plastic bag while harvesting the leaves. Once dried or blanched in boiling water for one minute, the sting is completely removed.

Kayakers Camp Tip: A small and flexible cooler on a trip is a benefit, even if its effectiveness only lasts the first few days. It is great for providing fresh food menu options.

Frozen meats, frozen seafood, frozen sauces (like the pesto, page 50) and dairy products can be kept for use in the early days of an expedition. After the freezer pack thaws, normally by day three, and the items in the cooler have been eaten, simply collapse the cooler and store it in your hatch. Enjoy more creative and elaborate meals. Go for it, be the gourmet on your next kayak adventure.

Nettle Recipes

Try a tasty nettle tart, but spinach works as well Nettle Tart Pastry: • 1-1/4 cups flour • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1/2 cup butter, cut into pieces (Try freezing the butter and packing it in a cooler bag to use within the first few days of your trip. The cooler butter creates a better texture for the pastry.)

• 1/3 cup cool water (Put the water bottle in the ocean to cool below air temperature. The colder the water, the more flaky and light the pastry.)

Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl, add the butter pieces and pinch with your fingers to make a crumb texture, then slowly add the water. Don’t mix the dough too much; the desired flaky texture of the tart pastry comes from the butter crumbs. Divide into two discs and set aside in the shade for 10 minutes while making the tart topping.

This pastry recipe is quick and works wonderfully with any toppings you can

imagine. Another of my favorite savory tarts is blue cheese, pear and walnut. Or try a sweet tart for desert with fruits and nuts.

Nettle Tart: • 1 disc pastry • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 3 cups nettle, blanched in boiling water

for one minute, then chopped • ½ cup parmesan cheese, grated • 1 egg, lightly beaten • 1 tablespoon sesame seeds • 1 tablespoon dried oregano • zest of one lemon • salt and pepper to taste Roll one of the pastry discs to the size of your Outback Oven or Dutch Oven (use a water bottle dusted with flour instead of a rolling pin while camping).

In a frying pan add olive oil and garlic, stir in your blanched nettle leaves, parmesan cheese, and egg. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper. Grease Outback Oven pan with butter or oil, then place rolled pastry in pan and spread nettle topping evenly over pastry. Sprinkle the sesame seeds and lemon zest on top and bake for 20 minutes. Slice tart and enjoy! Try substituting spinach for nettle in this fun and savory tart recipe.

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Paddle Meals

Stinging nettle pesto: try packing ahead • 6 cups fresh nettle, blanched in boiling water for one minute, drained then finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 shallots, finely chopped • ½ cup parmesan cheese • ¼ cup pine nuts • ¼ cup almonds (substitute walnuts, cashews, hazelnuts, pistachios) • 1/3 cup olive oil • 2 tablespoons lemon juice • salt and pepper to taste Place the blanched nettle, garlic, shallots, parmesan cheese and lemon juice in a hand- crank blender (my favorite kitchen tool) and mix until a

smooth consistency. Chop the nuts finely on a cutting board or use a rock to crush them, kind of like a mortar and pestle.

Blend in the nuts, then slowly stir in the olive oil. Finish by seasoning with salt and pepper. This can be tossed with pasta, spread on crackers, wraps, sandwiches or pizza, and is fabulous as sauce for your freshly caught salmon grilled over a beach fire!

Consider preparing nettle pesto before you go camping, and save by home canning or freezing. I like to freeze the pesto in a small container and pack it into my small portable cooler to use on day three or four of a kayak tour.

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Nettle Recipes

Substitute nettle in this Japanese salad Gomae Salad • 7 cups nettle (ordinarily spinach or kale) • 1 tablespoon salt Blanch nettle in boiling water until tender, drain and cool.

Sesame Dressing • 1 tablespoon tahini (sesame butter) • 1 teaspoon spicy peanut sauce • 1 teaspoon tamari (soy sauce) • 1 teaspoon sesame oil (or substitute olive oil) • 5 tablespoons sesame seeds,

roasted on hot frying pan, sprinkled on top of salad This Japanese steamed spinach salad with sesame dressing is a great recipe to try with stinging nettle. It is the ultimate recipe because it is so easy. Just steam the nettle, make a quick dressing, and roast some sesame seeds to sprinkle on top. Easy, tasty and healthy, this nettle recipe that is a great side salad for when you make sushi with freshly caught (from your kayak) salmon.

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SPRING 2011

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE

51

Fishing Angles

Thinking tackle? Think big A kayak fishing professional shares his thoughts on the best tackle for the job If you already own a rod and reel and simply wish to fish from your kayak occasionally, there is no reason to go out and buy new tackle. If you have a serviceable rod and reel with which you are comfortable fishing from a boat deck or shore, chances are the rig will be fine for fishing from your kayak. Use the money you save from buying a new rod or reel to go towards a good rod holder and a leash to secure what’s already in hand, then go fish!

On the other hand, if you find yourself absolutely hooked by the fishing angle, or simply want to give yourself the best shot at success as you learn to fish from your favorite paddle craft, you might want to consider purchasing tackle made specifically for use from a kayak.

Whether you prefer to use spinning, baitcasting, spin-casting or fly tackle, you can stick with the common reels when fishing from a kayak; it is the rod that differs from the traditional in paddle-fishing tackle.

“It’s all about length,” says Craig Kivi, a kayak fishing guide who started producing his own line of rods when he couldn’t find tackle to his liking. “Spinning and casting rods used from a kayak need to be at least seven feet

Craig Kivi at work.

long, on up to about nine feet. Fly rods should start at nine feet and go up from there.”

According to Craig, rods used for fishing from kayaks need to be longer than conventional ones for two reasons: “The primary reason is the casting advantage offered by the longer rod. The angler is seated in a low position relative to the water and the extra leverage offered by a longer rod makes for longer, easier casting.

“The other advantage of a long rod comes when fighting a fish,” says Craig.

“The longer rod allows you the length and leverage required to work a fish around the boat; the rod needs to be long enough to clear the bow and the stern if the fish makes a run or dives under the kayak.”

The grips on kayak fishing rods are different from the traditional as well. Craig prefers them to be longer than found on most fishing rods.

“Too long a butt end (the grip below the reel seat) will get in your way and jab the angler in the stomach; too short a butt and the rig will be hard to cast with two hands,

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which is helpful when casting from a seated position,” he says. Craig recommends 10inch butt ends for both casting and spinning rods in most situations.

The fore-grip (the cork or foam area above the reel seat) can be longer on kayak rods used in cold conditions, but otherwise they are much the same as found on traditional rods.

“When your hands are wet and cold, it’s way more comfortable to wrap your fingers around foam or cork than having them against fiberglass or graphite.”

As for hardware, Craig says the best kayak fishing rods feature premium-quality guides with super-slick inserts to allow line to flow freely when casting. He also recommends single foot guides on rods where weight is an issue. Ditto all-graphite rod construction to keep weight low and sensitivity high.

For line, Kivi provides his kayak fishing clients with rigs spooled with premium monofilament line for the casting attribute.

When clear water conditions require it, he will rig a leader of fluorocarbon.

And as any angler who has done much casting from a low-to-the-water, seated position knows: size and distance matter. < Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest. He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show, and presents kayak fishing seminars at boat shows.

Craig Kivi is the owner of Michigan’s Golden Drake Outdoors.

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Vignettes

Greenland paddlers gone wild

The latest in beach fashionware

How to protect the perfect urchin shell that you find on day one of a five-day trip? Simple – braid it into your hair! The odd thing is that the other hikers we encountered on the Nootka Trail never once commented. Perhaps they didn’t notice? Or maybe it looked so natural it appeared a regular hiking/fashion accessory. Or more probable, they were scared to ask.

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Is this a case of the kayaking natives growing restless or an affliction to which Greenland paddling enthusiasts are prone? We’re not sure, and perhaps it’s best if we never find out. Photographed during a lighter moment during the difficult task of dressing for protection from the sun at Cape Sutil on north Vancouver Island.

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We’ve had fun paddling on recent Coast&Kayak Magazine trips. Well, mostly we’ve had fun. Here are a few memorable images we’ve accumulated on recent outings.

Occasionally the oddest things can be found washed up in the bottom of your kayak’s cockpit. In this case it was Julianne Chetcuti (occasionally referred to as Jujube), the newest member of the Coast&Kayak team. who joined us for a three-generation family paddle in our tester Seaward Passat (proving it is indeed a kayak suitable for the whole family) with mom Brandie who joined us from her home in the Yukon. Bet the copies of this issue that we mail to Kanoe People in Whitehorse won’t last long!

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The cutest bilge sludge ever Navigation hazards gone wild

Here’s a tragic example of what happens when a bad idea catches on. Or perhaps there’s a very odd and highly selective magnetic pull to this old piling that sits in Newcastle Channel near Nanaimo, BC. We’ll be keeping an eye open, no doubt, to see exactly how this marker becomes populated.

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u Advertising directory

Accommodation: Kayak Friendly Accommodation..........50-51 Associations: BC Marine Trails Network Assoc.................. 27 Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC................. 43 Destinations: Gwaii Hanaas Provincial Park Reserve...... 56 Haida Gwaii / Gohaidagwaii.com..................7 Quadraislandtourism.ca....................................19 Directories: Instruction/Education....................................... 43 Kayak Friendly Accommodation................. 50 Tours and Services...............................................34 Events: Vancouver Island Paddlefest......................... 27 Kayak Manufacturers: Advanced Elements............................................ 38 Atlantis..........................................................................11 BorealDesign........................................................... 47 Delta................................................................................5 Feathercraft.................................................................6 Klepper........................................................................ 14 Necky Kayaks..............................................................7 Nimbus........................................................................ 26 Orca Boats................................................................. 38 Peregrine Kayaks...................................................23 Pygmy.............................................................................6 Seaward...................................................................... 49 Valley...............................................................................3 Waters Dancing Boat Kit Company........... 45 Gear Manufacturers: Blue Water Kayak Works................................... 37 Cascade Creek........................................................ 37 Coastal Waters........................................................ 37 Danuu Canoe & Kayak Covers...................... 37 H20 Paddles............................................................. 36 KayakPro..................................................................... 39 Lasso Security Cables......................................... 39 Natural West Coast Adventure Gear......... 39 Nimbus Paddles.....................................................23 NRS.................................................................................15 Seals Sprayskirts.....................................................22 Solo Rescue Assist................................................ 36 Suspenz Storage Racks..................................... 37 Instruction: Instruction/Education Directory................. 43 North Island College........................................... 43 Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC................. 43 Vancouver Island University........................... 43 Repairs: Blackline Marine.................................................... 45 Retail Outlets/Dealers: Aardvark’s.................................................................. 32 Alberni Outpost..................................................... 55 Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe............................ 39 Aquabatics................................................................ 45 Comox Valley Kayaks.......................................... 33 Deep Cove Outdoors............................................2 Ecomarine................................................................. 10 Harbour Chandler................................................ 52 Hook 1 Kayak Fishing Gear............................. 52 OceanRiver Sports................................................41 Western Canoeing & Kayaking........................2 Valhalla Pure Outfitters..................................... 53 Tours: Baja Kayak Adventure Tours...........................40 Coast Mountain Expeditions..........................19 Gulf Islands Kayaking...........................................19 Tofino Sea Kayaking............................................ 32 Tours and Services Directory..................34-35

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Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site

parkscanada.gc.ca

Réserve de parc national, Réserve d’aire marine nationale de conservation, et site du patrimoine haïda Gwaii Haanas

parcscanada.gc.ca

ExploreÊtheÊnewÊGwaiiÊHaanas.

Real.ÊInspiring.

RedŽcouvrezÊGwaiiÊHaanas. ÊÊUnique.ÊVraiment.

GwaiiÊHaanasÊisÊnowÊtheÊworldÕsÊ firstÊareaÊprotectedÊfromÊmountainÊ top to deep sea.

GwaiiÊHaanasÊestÊleÊpremierÊendroitÊauÊ mondeʈÊêtreÊprotŽgŽÊduÊsommetÊdesÊ montagnesÊauxÊprofondeursÊdeÊlaÊmer.ÊÊ

The Haida have had a connection with these islands and surrounding waters for more than 12,000 years. They managed and cared for this place according to the belief that everything is connected to everything else – people, plants, animals, land, sea and air. Now Parks Canada and the Council of the Haida Nation manage the land and sea together as one entity.

Les Haïdas ont des liens enracinés dans ces îles et les eaux environnantes depuis plus de 12 000 ans. Ils ont pris soin de cet endroit selon le principe que tout est interrelié – les gens, les plantes, les animaux, la terre, la mer et l’air.

Aujourd’hui, Parcs Canada et le Conseil de la nation haïda gèrent ensemble la terre et la mer, en tant qu’une seule entité.

Gwaii Haanas invites you to explore this amazing place.

Gwaii Haanas vous invite à découvrir cet endroit magnifique.

1-877-559-8818ÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ HAIDA NATION