May 2012 - Preview

The perfect day in Stewart Island

Tramping, kayaking and fine dining

know more, do more, live more

WIN! 5 Garmin GPS

units up for grabs!

3lake TOP walks Winter trips and tips

Don’t let the cold put you off the outdoors

Ski the Routeburn

The Great Walk has never looked so inviting

Tested!

Down sleeping bags reviewed

Treasure hunters

Hitting the trail for exercise and secret caches may 2012

Plus

See more blue ducks » Have you got the will to survive? » Dampier Range mapped in 3D » Trips in Auckland, Dunedin, Central Plateau and Kahurangi National Park

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may 2012

contents 30 FEATURES 30 Hopefully hunting for treasure Armed with a GPS and some steely determination, Wilderness goes geocaching

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36 Keeping fit and the forest alive Going off track to lay traps for unsuspecting stoats, possums and rats is a heartening way to spend your retirement 41 Wild Snow Our annual feature looking at the how, where and why of getting above the bushline in winter

WAYPOINTS 62

14 Places

Scrubby Flat Creek, Hawea Conservation Park

16 A perfect day

The ultimate day on Stewart Island

18 Quiet above the Sounds

Gertrude Saddle, Fiordland National Park

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20 See more

Three places to spot whio in their natural habitat

22 Top 3 lake hikes

Three great lakes worth tramping and camping next to

59 Subscribe to win

Subscribe or resubscribe in the month of May to go in the draw to win one of five Garmin eTrex 20 GPS units worth $249!

Cover: Stay active this winter and you’ll be raring to go come summer. See full story p41. PHOTO: Mark Banham www.wildernessmag.co.nz

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May 2012

contents

REGULARS 4 Editorial 5 Pigeon Post Your letters to Wilderness

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6 The big picture Quake reveals gems

8 Last weekend What did you get up to last weekend? Wilderness readers share their photos

9 Walkshorts News and events

12 Five reasons to get outside this month

11 Wilderness Word Enter our crossword competition to win great prizes

24 Off the Beaten Track Shaun Barnett hunts down a suitable peak to name after Captain Scott’s fifth man – Edgar Evans

58 Wild heritage A short history of walking poles

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78 Out There Preservation

80 Hotshot Forest gecko

The Manual Trips, skills, health, gear

WILD TRIPS 60 Lake Mavis, Kahurangi National Park 62 Zekes Hut, Hihitahi Forest Sanctuary 63 Staircase Hut, Waianakarua Scenic Reserve 64 Tawharanui Regional Park, Auckland

61 Wild Range Dampier Range, Lake Sumner Forest Park 68 Wild Review Three season down sleeping bags 70 Body and sole

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Wild Buyer’s Guide

Wet weather jackets and pants

Want better flexibility? You need to become one with the floor

70 Wild skills

The will to survive

71 Wild cuisine Bacon and courgette polenta 71 Wild read Wilderness books

2 May 2012

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The Big Picture

6 May 2012

Quake

reveals gems

Ever since the destructive earthquake on February 22, 2011 Cantabrian climbers have been forced to look further afield than the crags found in the Port Hills.

While some of the trails have been gradually reopened to walkers and mountain bikers, stabilisation issues have kept the crags out of bounds.

The cliffs on Banks Peninsula, which otherwise would have been overlooked by the city’s climbers, have seen an explosion of visitors who have found some hidden gems such as the grade 12 Diploma, climbed here

by Jamie Vinton-Boot.

- Troy Mattingley

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Last weekend Your trips, your pix

What did you get up to last weekend? Here’s what some Wilderness readers did in April

As part of a homework assi gnment Clayton Gerrard had to ‘Plan and complete an overnight tramp with family and friends’.

He organised a trip with mum Wendy and friend Tracey Patterson to Kiwiburn Hut in Southland’s Snowdo n Forest. “He loved it and passed his assi gnment,” says Wendy. “Now he’s nagging me to take him on more tramps!”

WINN Terry Davis and his mate headed up the Routeburn to camp at Lake Harris before retracing their steps and crossing Sugarloaf Pass.

I NG

PIX

Yan Ping Sun fr om Ohope rece ntly completed the 17km Nga Tapuwae O To i Track near Whakatane. “It was a beautiful day and I managed to finish it in 4.5hr,” says Ya n Ping.

er Samantha startDavid Newstead’s daught Silver Peaks route ing out on the classic ge, Pulpit Rock, Devthat takes in Green Rid t, ABC Caves, The ils Staircase, Jubilee Hu “A fantastic weekge.

Gap and Yellow Rid tramper,” says David. end for a great wee

Ashley and Claire Thomson cross a stream near the Mangatawhiri River midway through the Mine Road Track in the Hunua Ranges, Auckland.

Dennis Radermacher and friends recently climbed Mt Princess near Lake Tennyson. He re they scramble up the south-eastern ridge.

Paul Harris sips coffee on Easter Sunday atop Mt Ruapehu. “Nice, easy day trip in perfect conditions,” Paul says.

8 May 2012

Ruth McIntosh utilises a convenient log-fall while crossing Te Totara Stream in Te Urewera National Park

Send us photos showing what you did last weekend and you’ll be in with a chance to win neat outdoor prizes. This month, Terry wins a GorillaPod tripod worth $89.95.For full submission criteria and to view next month's prize, visit www.wildernessmag.co.nz.

Private track wins farm award

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he owners of Island Hill Station and the Hurunui High Country Track which traverses the farm have won an award for the way they have diversified their business.

Island Hill Station has been run by members of the Shand family since 1928. However, the farm operation was marginal so when Dan and Mandy Shand took over the running of the station from Dan’s parents they decided to build a private walking track to provide an alternative income from tourists. They have since diversified further by establishing 350 hives from which they make a variety of honeys including manuka.

Their efforts have led to financial sustainability, a major factor in the couple winning the supreme award in the 2012 Balance Farm Environment Awards.

The Hurunui High Country Track was opened in 2004, just two days after Dan and

Mandy married. “It took us twoand-a-half years to get it up and running with a chainsaw, pick and shovel, and a huge amount of elbow grease,” said Mandy.

The idea for the walking track first occurred to the couple in 2001 while they did pest control work on the station to raise money for their OE in Australia.

“During this time possuming we did see the huge potential for a walking track,” said Mandy.

“While in Australia we dwelled on it for a few years.”

When Dan’s parents asked the young couple to come back to New Zealand to take over the station, the idea for the walking track was taking root. “It was a great opportunity to do something other than traditional farming.”

Between 600 and 800 people walk the 30km, three-day track each year staying in huts

Kiwi wins sponsorship for world-first adventure

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n expedition team of four women adventurers, including Kiwi ocean rower Tara Remington, has won the annual $5000 Nancy-Bird Walton Sponsorship award from the Australian Geographic Society.

The Ultimate Trilogy, expected to start early 2013, is the brainchild of Australian ocean rower Margaret Bowling and includes an ambitious plan for a five-month-long journey over ice, on sea and to altitude in South America. Along with Bowling and Remington, Linda Beliharz and Felicity Aston make up the team.

Remington is no newcomer to long and challenging expeditions, but says the Trilogy will definitely push her limits.

In 2005 Remington and her teammate Ian Rudkin competed in the Atlantic Rowing Race from the Canary Islands to Antigua, but had to abandon their attempt when a wave capsized the boat, wounding Remington’s head. Not one to give up, she and three other women, called Team Unfinished Business, entered the race and crossed the Atlantic in 51 days, 16 hours and 31 minutes, a new world record for a women’s four which still stands today. In January this year, Remington and a friend paddled 64km from Makara Beach in Wellington across the Cook Strait into Queen Charlotte Sound and along to Picton Beach in 11hr50min.

The Ultimate Trilogy expedition will start with a three week ski traverse across the northern Patagonian icecap, emerging on the coast at San Rafael Glacier.

Then, using a four person ocean rowing boat, the team will row 100km through the fjords and over 1000km on the Pacific Ocean up the Chilean coast to the port of Valparaiso.

The Hurunui High Country Track has helped the owners of Island Hill Station diversify their business

built as long ago as 1914.

The huts aren’t the only piece of history on show. “We have an historic museum that has a lot of significant items that Dan and I have collected from around the station,” Mandy said.

“There is everything from old saddles to war memorabilia. It’s well worth a visit.”

They will leave the boat here and walk 200km to the base of Mt Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in South America, before climbing 6962m to the summit.

“We are not aware of anyone who has put together an expedition linking objectives in multiple terrains in this part of the world,” Remington told Wilderness. “There are very few people who have crossed the icecap – and not many more who even know there’s an icecap there.

“There are records of groups who have approached the South Patagonia Icecap by kayak or motor boat on the western coast from nearby ports such as Tortel, but we don’t know of any who have rowed up the coast.

Remington said the $5000 Nancy-Bird Walton award, which pays tribute to one of Australia’s greatest female adventurers, has given the build up to the Trilogy an important “kick start”.

“It’s taken it from the realm of ideas to an expedition that’s going to happen,” she says.

a team of n is part of o gt onin em R Tara $5000m sp have won a p ho w ca e en ic m o an w oni sit the Patag sorship to vi

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waypoints

A perfect day on Stewart Island Stewart Island is renowned for its strenuous, uber-muddy walks in Rakiura National Park. However, after living for 10 years on the Island, Jess Kany knows a few trails closer to town worth a look and suggests you leave the Great Walks to the mudophiles.

The itinerary is nothing to sneeze at: hills and stairs will haunt your calves. These walks wend through rainforest and along spectacular coastline.

16 May 2012

Dawn: Open the curtain and peek outside. Rakiura is the ‘land of the glowing skies’ and the sunrise often inspires a sleepy scramble for the camera.

Dawn plus 5: Go back to sleep (if you can, the kaka make a racket).

8.00: Head to the South Sea Hotel for Stewart Island blue cod topped with egg. Get your second cup of Joe to go, mosey along the waterfront and have a nosey at the wharf, watching the comings and goings of fishing boats, fairy penguins and ferries.

8.45: Pop into Ship to Shore for snacks and sandfly repellent.

Outside, head left. Follow Horseshoe Bay Road over three steep hills. The last will drop you into Horseshoe Bay. Turn right, follow yellow sign for Horseshoe Point Track. Horseshoe Point and Deadman’s Beach are nice spots for a pause; if it’s windy there’s a protected bench at the top of the stairs after Deadman’s.

12.30: Seafood chowder at the South Sea Hotel.

1400: Leave hotel and go right.

Turn up Peterson Hill to Deep Bay Track. Back on a road, turn right, down the hill, to pick up Golden Bay Track. Back on the road turn left, walk to Watercress Beach (follow sign toward Thule) and hop in a sea kayak (pre-arranged through www.rakiura.co.nz).

Tootle amongst lovely wee islands, spotting penguins and shags. After-

wards, return to town via Raroa Reserve Track and Fuschia Walk.

1900: Beer and sustenance at the pub.

Summertime, just on dark: Drive to Acker’s Point Trailhead. Take a torch and walk to the lighthouse: just on full dark the titi fly home, crying their eerie call. Walk back slowly and quietly, you share the trail with penguins, titi, whitetail deer, and, if you’re lucky kiwi.

Two hours Bring a feed of fish and chips from the Kai Kart, a fern book, a bird book, sandfly repellent, and Stewart Island rainwater (from the shop; it’s a fundraiser for the local community centre). Drive to the entrance to Rakiura National Park (10min from town). Walk to Little River, picnic, return. (If you are a slow walker, there is a bench halfway for a turnaround point).

This is a beautiful toe-dip into New Zealand’s newest National Park.

Four hours Explore Paterson Inlet’s exquisite Ulva Island. Scheduled water taxis leave from Golden Bay (10min walk from town) throughout the day. Cost is approximately $25 per adult return. Wander around yourself or do a guided tour with Ulva – yes, it’s really her name – a knowledgeable and lovely lady of Rakiura Maori descent. www.ulva.co.nz

MUSH FRIO

TEVA.COM/NZ | STOCKISTS: 0800 805 806 www.wildernessmag.co.nz

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Scott’s forgotten man Shaun Barnett sets about righting a wrong on the Polar Range

M

any trampers wile away countless hours examining maps, planning trips, or admiring contours.

One of my favourite maps is NZMS 260 K33, Otira, which covers the mountains of Arthur’s Pass National Park.

One day, when looking at K33, I noticed something. The Polar Range has three mountains named after members of the famous British Antarctic Expedition of 1910-13: Mts Wilson, Bowers and Scott. And on the adjacent Aicken Range lies Mt Oates. But where was Captain Scott’s fifth man, Edgar Evans?

One hundred years ago, the five men of Scott’s polar party toiled to the South Pole, only to find their Norwegian rivals, led by Roald Amundsen, had beaten them. Scott famously wrote: ‘Great God! this is an awful place and terrible enough for us to have laboured to it without reward of priority…’.

What a psychological blow this defeat must have been to the five British men we can only guess at, but the physical toll of their late arrival soon became all too clear. Petty Officer Edgar Evans was the largest man of the polar party and the first to succumb to the intense cold and exhaustion of their torturous return from the Pole. He collapsed on February 17, 1912 and was hauled by his teammates on an empty sledge back to camp but never regained consciousness and died that night. A tragic end for the big Welshman who had once been considered the strongest of the five, the one most likely to prove himself a polar hero.

Exactly 100 years on, I’m toiling too, albeit on a much lesser scale, up an enormous scree slope in the Edwards Valley. Steve Baker, Fraser Crichton and I had tramped up the Edwards the previous day, staying the night at Edwards Hut. We plan to ascend an unnamed peak on the Polar Range and dedicate it to Edgar Evans. It’s a fine day, cool in the shadow of the range as we claw our way up the steep scree slide beneath Mt Bowers. Higher up, the breeze is cool too, but hardly polar, and the sun promises to emerge.

When the gradient eases off we try to gain our bearings. Mt Bowers must be above us, hiding behind an apron of boulders and small rock ribs. Ahead, Mts Scott and Wilson remain out of sight. Plans to gain the ridge and traverse it are foiled by a nasty section of rock that looks so rotten it’s putrid. Our peak

24 May 2012

is ahead, beyond the crumbling crest.

We decide to sidle around its scree flanks, then up the skyline ridge. Fine black shale spills beneath our boots, and it’s like plugging through soft snow. More bouldery travel ensues. It’s not technical, but steep enough, and hard work.

We gasp with the effort, and rocks slide under our feet, but we make steady progress until at last we crest the Polar Range to stand on the summit of Pt 2019m.

This is one of four peaks I’d picked from the map as suitable candidates for Mt Edgar Evans, and I’m pleased to see that, although close to Mt Wilson, it has its own distinct summit. This is it.

The views are panoramic: the layered, steep ridges of Sudden Valley and beyond, the Edwards Valley, stretching away below the innumerable other summits – some glacier-gilded – of Arthur’s Pass National Park.

I pull two sheets of yellow corflute, the same plastic material favoured by Real Estate agents, from my pack. It’s not inappropriate: our mission hopes to claim a piece of real estate for a dead explorer. On the sheets I’ve written ‘Mt Edgar Evans’ in blazing red, and hand them to Fraser and Steve to hold on the summit. I pull out two laminated photographs, one a portrait of Evans, and the other showing the polar party at the South Pole. We take some photographs.

Then it’s time to say a few words in tribute to Evans, build a cairn to house the photographs, and swig some fine single malt whisky from Steve’s hip flask.

www.wildernessmag.co.nz

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GEOCACHING

Hopefully

hunting for treasure Armed with a GPS and some steely determination, Edith Leigh takes her family geocaching

a

An earthy mushroom and compost odour fills my nostrils.

Pine needles and wet leaves stick to my hands and knees.

Small branches poke me in the eye and snag in my hair.

It’s just started to drizzle and I’m beginning to wonder what I’m doing here.

As I crawl, and at times even slither, around in the shelter belt my mother asks, again, “what exactly are you looking for?”

“A plastic snap-lock container that’s painted in camouflage.”

“And what is in this container,” she asks, again, as she hands my oneyear-old daughter some more banana.

“A logbook.”

“I see, and what do you do with that?”

“You write your geocaching handle in it.”

“Your geo-what?”

“Geocaching. It’s sort of like a modern day, hi-tech, treasure hunt. Your handle is your online name.”

“Why don’t I have a look,” she offers. “You’ve been in there for half-anhour now. A fresh pair of eyes might notice something different.”

With some relief, I crawl out of the trees, climb back over the fence and pull a twig out of my hair.

“Really,” I wonder out loud, “how hard can it be to find something when you have the exact co-ordinates of its location and a GPS in your hand?”

I know just what sort of container I’m looking for and how big it is. I

30 May 2012

Right: The author goes treasure hunting with her daughter; Below: Geocaching can take you to some fantastic places like this one at Tarn Hut in Canterbury ; Opposite page: A log book inside a micro-cache found hidden in a tree trunk

GAVIN TREADGOLD

even had a clue to where it was hidden – over the fence and behind a tree.

It all sounded pretty easy until the compass on the geocaching app I had downloaded onto my smartphone navigated me to this spot.

The compass reckoned it was only accurate to four metres, and in the eight metre radius over the fence there were at least 20 trees growing very close together.

Now I understood what avid geocacher Peter Walker meant when he told me “you are the search engine”.

“The GPS will get you to within the general location, but it won’t find the cache for you,” he explained.

Some time later, as we walk down the hill, defeated, my mum says: “Oh well, you know I’ve been to this park lots of times and I’ve never walked along that top track. I never realised there was such a nice view of Lake Henry up there.”

And that, it seems to me, is what geocaching is all about.

It’s not just about hunting for plastic containers, it’s about finding new places, new tracks and beautiful spots you might never have otherwise visited.

Geocaching hasn’t been around that long and only began in the new millennium when the United States government allowed civilians access to signals from 24 satellites around the globe on May 2, 2000.

Overnight the accuracy of Global Positioning System (GPS) receivers improved tenfold, pinpointing locations to within five to 10 metres, instead of a couple of hundred metres.

The next day an American computer consultant hid a black bucket in some nearby woods. He posted the coordinates on the internet with the instructions “take some stuff, leave some stuff” and geocaching was born.

It is basically still the same today, except there are now more than 1.6 million geocaches hidden around the world and, according to geocaching.com, more than five million people play this real world, outdoor game of hide and seek.

Walker, who has logged almost nine hundred finds since 2009, says his kids don’t just go walking or tramping with dad, they go treasure hunting.

Geocaches, often referred to as a cache, can be anything from a film canister to a 20 litre bucket and contain a logbook for people to record their find. Many caches also have ‘swag’ – low value items or trinkets that can be traded.

The thrill of exchanging their small toys for something new has seen his one-, four- and five-year-olds join him on almost half of his cache hunts.

Before he chanced across the game, Walker says he worked and watched TV. Now he has rediscovered his love of the outdoors and geocaching has led him to explore

The GPS will get you to within the general location, but it won’t find the cache for you www.wildernessmag.co.nz

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WILD SNOW

Pioneer Hut

Fox Glacier névé, Westland

Top of the mountain huts

By Mark Banham

T

here’s something very special and uniquely Kiwi about climbing from lush beech forest into a Narnia-esque alpine world. In many continental mountain ranges this sort of ecosystem transition takes place over a thousand kilometres, so to be able to walk it in a morning is quite a privilege. But it’s one most trampers don’t take enough advantage of.

So with that in mind Wilderness has whipped up a ‘bucket list’ of alpine huts. Some, like Mueller, are virtually indisputable; others, we admit, have been selected with unashamed bias – once you’ve skied fresh powder to the doorstep of a hut you can never look at it the same way again.

Fortunately there’s one sure fire way to test the accuracy for yourself – pay them a visit!

Routeburn Falls Hut

Luxemore Hut

If you’re confident with your alpine skills, then Pioneer Hut is a must-do. From this shelter, perched precariously at the top of the Fox Glacier at over 2300m you can access some of New Zealand’s wildest terrain, including Mt Tasman, Mt Lendenfeld, Mt Haast and Mt Haidinger to name a few of the possibilities. Alternatively you can skip the peak bagging and make the classic ski descent to Chancellor Hut, one vertical kilometre below.

Access Helicopter from Fox Glacier Township Grade Difficult – very difficult Bunks 16 Cost per-night $30 Notes The terrain around Pioneer is not to be taken lightly. Make sure you have the skills and gear you need for this one – if in doubt go with a guide.

Kirtle Burn Hut

Luxemore Hut backcountry

Routeburn Falls Hut

Angelus Hut

Mueller Hut

Routeburn Falls Hut is typically packed in summer but in winter it takes on a tranquillity that borders on post-apocalyptic. Frost feathers grow in shady corners, delicate ice formations dangle from nearby rock overhangs and of course under their winter cloak the mountains take on an entirely different persona. If you’ve only been on the Routeburn Track in summer, then you’ve only seen half of it.

Access From Routeburn Shelter follow the well manicured Routeburn Track, turning left at Routeburn Flats Hut. Three hours should get you there if you’re not too heavily loaded.

Grade Easy-moderate Bunks 48 Cost per-night $15.30 ($51.10 in Great Walks season) Notes Like Luxemore Hut, Routeburn Falls has heating but it's best to take your own fuel.

The peaks close to Mt Cook and Mt Aspiring get the lion’s share of the attention from New Zealand’s alpinists, but if you do a little research you can find some great hidden gems further afield – like Angelus Hut. This lovely little spot features a relatively mellow approach, gives access to some very userfriendly terrain and the sublime views over Lakes Rotorua and Rotoiti are worth the trip by themselves.

Access Follow the zigzag track from Roberts Ridge car park to Bushedge Shelter then follow the poled route south-west along Roberts Ridge, past Mt Julius to reach Angelus Hut. On skis this should take about six hours.

Grade Moderate Bunks 28 Cost per-night $15 ($20 in summer) Notes It’s not uncommon to find Angelus Hut largely buried by snow, so it’s worth planning your trip to allow a bit of time to dig your way in.

If you can only visit one alpine hut before you die, then this should be it. Mueller feels like you’re in the thick of things, but it’s only four hours walk from the cafes of Mt Cook Village. The slopes directly above the hut make for some pleasant afternoon skiing, as do the ones down to Sealy Tarns. Or if you’re feeling bolder, Mueller is the stepping off point for some truly epic alpine adventures.

Access Follow the poled route from White Horse Hill, near Mt Cook Village. The DOC official times are: two hours to Sealy Tarns, then another two hours to Mueller Hut. Grade Moderate-difficult Bunks 28 Cost per-night $35.70 Notes The Slopes above Sealy Tarns can be risky at times (either bullet proof ice or sketchy avalanche conditions) so be sure to check with DOC regarding the conditions before setting off.

Mt Aspiring National Park

44 May 2012

Nelson Lakes National Park

Mt Cook National Park

Luxemore Hut

Brewster Hut

Perhaps it’s just my childish imagination, but Luxemore Hut feels as close as I’ll ever get to living out my James Bond fantasies.You step out the door straight onto your skis in the morning. (“But James, I need you.”... “So does England darling.”) Ski amazing terrain all day and when you’re done you simply call in a helicopter from Te Anau. In a word: awesome.

Access A ten minute helicopter ride from Te Anau or a five to six hour walk from the Lake Te Anau control gates.

Grade Moderate Bunks 54 Cost per-night $15.30 ($51.10 in Great Walks season) Notes Luxemore Hut has a stove, but dry firewood is almost non-existent in winter. If you’re flying in it’s worth bringing your own fuel.

After a straightforward but strenuous approach, Brewster Hut gives access to some amazing terrain including Mt Armstrong, Mt Topheavy, the Brewster Glacier and of course Mt Brewster itself. It’s enough to keep even the most ambitious ski-mountaineer entertained for quite some time. Although it may look benign in good conditions, it’s very close to the West Coast so the weather can change fast. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Access Cross the river at Fantail Falls car park then follow the poled route up a broad ridge for approximately four hours to find the hut just above the bushline.

Grade Moderate-difficult Bunks 12 Cost per-night $15.30 Notes Brewster Hut is unheated, so make sure you bring a decent sleeping bag.

Fiordland National Park

Mangatepopo Hut

Mangatepopo Hut

Mt Aspiring National Park

Pioneer Hut

This little hut is a great place to base yourself for an assault on Mt Ngauruhoe; one of Aotearoa’s most desirable ski touring peaks.

This mountain’s almost perfectly conical shape means you can choose your snow conditions: if it’s a little wind-scoured on a due southerly aspect, just traverse around by few degrees on this ‘snow-dial’ and you’ll invariably find what you’re after.

Access Three-quarters of an hour of easy trail leads you to the hut. From here it’s another two hours to South Crater in good conditions Grade Easy Bunks 20 Cost per-night $15 ($31 in peak season) Notes Sadly vandalism is a problem at the Mangatepopo Road car park so remember to ‘lock it or loose it’.

The terrain around Pioneer Hut

Kirtle Burn Hut

French Ridge Hut

The terrain surrounding Kirtle Burn Hut is pleasantly gentle. This spot isn’t going to make it into a Warren Miller film any time soon, but it’s the perfect locale for those just getting into ski touring or as a first trip of the season while your legs are remembering how to parallel turn.

Access From Snowfarm pick up the ridge to the south-west of the Kirtle Burn following it for about an hour (you can just follow the valley floor, but the views are nicer on the ridge).

Grade Easy Bunks 7 Cost per-night $5 (Plus Snowfarm charges $20 per car to use the access road) Notes Watch out, the gentle rolling hills can make the navigation deceptively tricky (particularly if the visibility isn’t great) so keep your wits about you.

French Ridge is the launching pad for some classic mountaineering routes around Mt Aspiring, but even if you never get past the Quarterdeck, it’s still an inspiring location with some gut-churningly sheer drops around Gloomy Gorge and overlooking Scotts Rock Bivouac. This one takes a little longer to get to, thanks to the walk up the Matukituki Valley but it’s well worth the extra miles.

Access Walk up the Matukituki, past Aspiring Hut then follow the poled route from Pearl Flat on the Matukituki River West Branch for about four to five hours. Most people will overnight at either Aspiring Hut or camp at Pearl Flat but it can be done in one long push.

Grade Difficult Bunks 20 Cost per-night $20 Notes In my experience this one’s best done as a spring trip, when the approach to the hut is clear of snow but there’s still plenty left on the slopes above it.

Pisa Conservation Area

Tongariro National Park

Mt Aspiring National Park

French Ridge Hut

A word on skills and gear It’s better to be forced to turn around because you brought too much gear than forced to stay – permanently – because you didn’t bring enough. If you’re heading above the snowline, always bring a transceiver, shovel and probe; consider bringing an ice axe, crampons and a rope. And most importantly make sure you’re well practiced in using it all.

www.wildernessmag.co.nz

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Forest gecko A forest gecko found while surveying a mountain plateau on the South Island's West Coast is handled to allow the species to be identified. Geckos find refuge amongst the spectacular scenery and isolation of high altitude plateaus that act as mainland islands for a wide range of endemic and endangered species. It is these same environments that attract trampers to experience an elevated sense of wilderness.

Shot on a Canon EOS 5D Mark II at 1/100sec, f/13 ISO-400.

- Peter Langlands

80 May 2012

Submit your hotshots to editor@lifestylepublishing.co.nz

LEADERS

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E C N E R E F F I D A E K A M

MAKE A DIFFERENCE BECOME A VOLUNTEER We are looking for new volunteers and we want you to join our team. With youth membership on the rise for the fifth year in a row, we simply don’t have enough volunteers to keep up with the demand. Make a difference in your local community by giving us a call on 0800 SCOUTS or join us online at scouts.org.nz.

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82 May 2012

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