SUBSCRIBE NOW! YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A FREE TRIP TO CALIFORNIA AND MORE February/March 2012
Travel Light, Travel Far
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Arctic Encounters Icebergs, glaciers and polar bears
+ Macedonia | Jungles of Nepal | Igloo in Austria | Turkey Cave Hotel
From the Road 26 | Dispatches: Nepal
Get new perspectives of Nepal in the lush jungles of Chitwan.
54 | Under the Radar: Macedonia
A country steeped in history and culture yet hidden from the tourist trail - we dig deep to find out.
64 | Feast: India
We put our taste buds to the test in the explosive city of Hyderabad.
78 | Just Back: Austria
Learn how to build an igloo in the Austrian Alps.
Destination Features 18 | Namibia
55 million years have passed, but the world’s oldest desert is still full of surprises.
34 | The Arctic
Journey to the edge of the world and get intimate with glaciers, icebergs - and polar bears.
46 | Jokkmokk, Sweden
A photographic glimpse of the indigenous Sámi market in the Swedish Lapland.
70 | Oman
We go back in time and follow the trail of frankincense in Oman’s Dhofar region.
84 | In Focus: China
From ancient pagodas to futuristic skyscrapers, China has it all. We suggest four itineraries for your perfect trip.
54 Macedonia
Regulars
Insider
06 | Snapshots Feast on impressive photos snapped by our
62 | Calendar A look at the festivals and events happening
readers from around the world.
16 | Trip Ideas Ten ideas for wildlife watching - from the
GalĂĄpagos Islands to Tanzania. 96 | Smart Travel Tackling the issues that matter most to travelers. This issue: tipping. 97 | Travel Thoughts Our columnist Candace Rardon muses about the mis-construed idea of adaptation.
around the world this Feb/Mar. 94 | Stay Ever slept in a cave? Cappadocia’s boutique cave hotel gives it a new meaning. 98 | Gear The latest technology in travel gear design and electronics.
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Jokkmokk, Sweden p46
Chitwan, Nepal p26
84 China Oman p70
Hyderabad, India p64
Namibia
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Nagano, Japan
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As we walked down a snow-covered pathway in sub-zero temperature at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, we were surrounded by snow monkeys - over dozens of them! They must’ve gotten used to the tourists that come by all year round because they seemed to be oblivious to our presence. They scurried by, avoiding us on the pathway and went on with their daily routine - relaxing in the hot spring nearby and then drying off on the snow banks. We had never seen a snow monkey before so the encounter with them was eye-opening. The three-hour journey from Tokyo was well worth it!
- Jeremy Ng
Send us your photos and the stories behind them to editor@wildjunket.com
Sands of Time By Abigail King
55 million years have passed, but the world’s oldest desert is still home to massive sand dunes, roaming wildlife and clusters of dead trees.
Sunrise on Dune 45: Dune walking is harder than it looks, even harder when you’re racing against the sun.
Wildlife in Sossusvlei: Ostriches roam the sandy plains, feeding on the desert shrubs. Bottom left: A withered camel thorn tree standing lonesome in the desert. Bottom right: The cracking pan of the Dead Vlei backdropped by flaming red dunes.
F
or 55 million years, particles of sand, in shades of blood red, caramelized orange and exhausted, jaded rust have sifted one over the other in this part of the world. I stand clasping a few of them, gasping for breath. I’m in the middle of the Namib Desert, the oldest desert in the world. It’s the desert whose very name means wide open space and whose sands and scorched shadows almost define the country it lives in. Namibia. The land of wide open space.
Climbing Dune 45
The reality is that I’m nowhere near the middle of the Namib Desert, an expanse whose boundaries stretch for over 32,000 meters from the Forbidden Territories in the south to the Skeleton Coast in the north.
“I’m in the middle of the Namib Desert, the desert whose sands and scorched shadows almost define the country it lives in.” I’m at – and on – the edge, huffing and puffing, slipping and sliding, stumbling and generally bumbling around as I try to climb Dune 45, the most accessible dune in the Namib Naukluft National Park. Accessible, of course, is a relative term. Almost insulting as I think about it now, my lungs straining at the seams, my capillaries compressing every blood cell in the quest for more oxygen. Dune walking, like moon walking, is harder than it looks and we’re racing against the sun to reach the top first. It doesn’t seem like a fair contest.
The sun has been practicing for more than 55 million years, whereas I only arrived last night. The sun didn’t need to rescue the 4x4 from spinning ruts in the sand, nor negotiate with officials over paperwork at the entrance to the park. It didn’t need to feel old as it scrambled past students who giggled their way to the top. On second thoughts, after 4.6 billion years, perhaps the sun does feel old. The Namib Desert must look like a cheeky little upstart, while the travelers who scramble across the sand must resemble tumbling toddlers at a kindergarten recess.
Destination Namibia
Beyond the Herd By Candace Rose Rardon
Forget the harsh, snowy mountains of Nepal - head out to its lush jungles for a whole new perspective of the ‘roof of the world’.
Dawn of the Trunk: Riding through the Chitwan National Park as the morning sun pierces through the tropical foliage.
Crackling glaciers, roaming reindeers and polar bears – the Arctic might be at the edge of the world, but it sure is bursting with life.
“P
olar bear on starboard!” I’d been so transfixed by the dazzling white ice field that I hadn’t noticed a curled up vanilla fur ball in the midst. The Arctic can play tricks on your eyes – under the glaring midnight sun and the reflective ice, it’s easy to let your imagination run wild. I grabbed my binoculars to have a clearer look. There, blending seamless with the glittery ice was the King of the Arctic, a polar bear. An awed hush fell over the 70odd people onboard our expedition cruise. Cutting the silence with dagger-like sharpness, our ship MS Expedition sliced through the giant ice field. Sensing our presence, the polar bear stood on all fours and moved warily towards our ship, its languid strides underlying its lethal hunting speed of 30miles/hour. Standing just inches away from
the bow of the ship, it paused and stared at us for what felt like forever. I locked eyes with the motionless creature – all huge, inquisitive eyes, massive black paws and bulky back.
World’s Last Wilderness Such profound wildlife experiences have long been a trademark of the Arctic. As one of the world’s last wildernesses, the Svalbard archipelago of the Norwegian Arctic is home to more polar bears than human beings. This is one of the few places on Earth where nature reigns supreme - we humans are simply voyeurs peeking into their world. I’d been drawn to the Arctic by its sheer remoteness, but also by a sense of urgency – how long will it stay this way? How long will the ice caps last? With the effects of global warming, Arctic animals are facing the danger of losing their natural habitat.
According to an eight-nation report, the Arctic is heating twice as fast as the rest of the world. The U.S. Geological Survey Office’s studies show that about two-thirds of the world’s polar bear population will disappear by 2050. Sea ice around the North Pole could almost disappear by the end of the century; in fact the ice field has already shrunk by 1520% in the last 30 years. The Arctic is one of the places to see before it disappears forever, and it’s also a place that gives a real wakeup call.
Polar Bear Country
There is no better introduction to the vast, ice-locked polar region than expedition cruising. Onboard our small vessel, we circumnavigated the Svalbard archipelago, sailing through narrow fjords, snow-covered bays and glacial lakes – remote corners
Curious onlookers: As the expedition vessel sailed through an ice field, expeditioners looked on closely for wildlife.
Destination NORWAY
I
took a piece of dried beef jerky Wild Hasse’s wife was cutting up into bite sizes. Hasse himself was bellowing in a deep voice, asking people to step up and try some of his dried meats (törkatkött) if they dared. “Vad är det för något?” I asked her what it was in Swedish. “Björnkött!” Bear meat. She watched in anticipation as I popped that dark piece of bear meat into my mouth, waiting for a response. Not bad, I thought trying to break down the mild-flavored chewy jerky. Not bad at all. I was in subarctic Sweden in the small town of Jokkmokk with a population of roughly 5,000. On assignment to learn and research certain aspects of Sámi culture, there was no better setting than the 400+ year old Jokkmokk Sámi market held every February at the height of winter. The Sámi are an indigenous people of roughly 70,000 living in the Arctic and subarctic regions of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and the Kola Peninsula in Russia – a land area collectively known as Sápmi. Roughly 20,000 indigenous Sámi live in Sweden. For over 400 years, the winter market in Jokkmokk served as a trading post for different Sámi groups to exchange goods such as reindeer, skins, fur, crafts, herbs, and other supplies. Holding the market during winter made it easier for them to travel across frozen lakes and rivers on skis and dog sleds with herds of reindeer and wares for sale. Today, Jokkmokk winter market remains the largest Sámi festival in the world. It spans three days, opening the first Thursday of every February with folk dances, joiking (traditional music similar to yodeling), reindeer races, dog sledding, traditional food samplings, Sámi Duodji (handicraft) as well as a reindeer caravan procession led by Sámi elder Per Kuhmunen. I hope these snapshots of the 406th annual Jokkmokk Sámi Market will give you a good glimpse into Sámi culture and traditions - and transport you into their world.
A photographic glimpse into the 406 year old indigenous Sรกmi market in the Swedish Lapland.
From ancient pagodas to futuristic magnetic trains, China is a place where history meets the present in an array of diverse cultures, landscapes and foods.
WORDS MEGAN EAVES | PHOTOGRAPHS JIMMY CHENG & MEGAN EAVES
ACTIONPACKED TOUR IN CALIFORNIA AMONG AN
PRIZES
OTHER
WORTH
Subscribe to the free WildJunket’s Newsletter on www.wildjunket.com and stand a chance to win attractive prizes worth $3,000!
Win An Active Escape: California, USA G Adventures is offering one reader an action-packed six-day tour of Yosemite and Monterey –worth US$1,875! Kayak along the incredible coastline of Monterey Bay, bike the famous 17-Mile Drive, hike along the spectacular trails of Yosemite and take in the best California has to offer. The Yosemite and Monterey Active Escape departs and returns to San Francisco. What’s included: transportation, hotel stays, guide, some meals and hiking, biking and kayaking excursions. Flights are not included. For more information, refer to trip details on G Adventures (Trip Code: NUYO).
Two Apartment Rental Vouchers Each Worth $300 We’ve joined forces with Roomorama to give away travel vouchers each worth US$300 to two lucky winners. These vouchers can be used at any of Roomorama’s 30,000 properties in over 500 global destinations. From chic Cape Town beach pads to rustic cavehouses in Koh Phanghan and luxury villas in Bali, enjoy local living and savor the things that make a place special.
*Terms and Conditions: Vouchers cannot be used in conjunction with other Roomorama promotions. They expire on 30 June 2012.
Two Pentonvillain Thermal Sets To help you fight off the winter blues, we’ve got two thermal sets (one male and one female) up for grabs, courtesy of Pentonvillain. These specially-designed thermal sets (worth US$165.70 each) feature the latest in travel gear design technoloy. Made of 100% Australian merino, these thermals are lightweight, biodegrable, durable and suitable for all seasons.
Hummingbird Travel Bag One last winner will bring home our personal favorite travel gear: the brand new Hummingbird WideMouth Carry-on worth US$74.95. This versatile dry bag features a wide-mouth design and a waterproof roll-top closure system which protects it from the ravages of even the harshest journeys. The 40L bag is sized to fit overhead compartments on jetliners. Whether you’re heading on an Arctic expedition or just going on a kayaking daytrip, this is the perfect travel companion.
To enter the giveaway, readers must be subscribed to the free Wildjunket Magazine newsletter on www.wildjunket.com. Entry is open to all subscribers above the age of 18. Winners will be chosen randomly via random.org. Giveaway opens on 16 January 2012 and ends at 11.59pm GMT on 11 March 2012. The results will be announced on our website on 15 March 2012. Terms and Conditions for G Adventures Giveaway: The prize is a place on the “Yosemite & Monterey Active Escape” (tour code NUYO) tour for 1 person and includes the land tour, accommodations and other services as specified but does not include insurance, airfare, incidentals or other third party services as determined. The prize is non-transferable, has no cash value and substitutions will not be permitted. As a prize winner, if the tour requires it, you must be able to travel internationally and possess or be able to procure a valid passport for the duration of the trip, according to current international travel law. Passport and visa procurement will be the sole responsibility of the winner. The prize must be booked by 31 May 2012 and with travel completed by 31 September 2012. It is the responsibility of the winner to contact the G Adventures sales department (as provided) by 16 April 2012 in order to claim the prize. You must be 18 or older to claim the prize and no G Adventures employees or immediate family are eligible. Please note, prize winners are required to book onto guaranteed departures that have already met their minimum participant requirements. G Adventures reserves the right to cancel any departure that has not reached its minimum participant requirements. In the event all departures of the NUYO are cancelled for 2012, the prize winner will be able to book onto another tour of the same or lesser value, with travel to be completed by 31 July 2012. G Adventures reserves the right to substitute tours for operational resources and blackout dates may apply. Winner will be determined randomly by WildJunket Magazine and all decisions are final. By entering the giveaway and agreeing to our terms and conditions, the winners confirm their eligibility and compliance with the rules and release G Adventures from all liability caused by, or resulting from, the acceptance or use of the prize.