ENTER NOW! YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A FREE TRIP TO BAJA CALIFORNIA Winter 2012/13
Travel Light, Travel Far
Iceland Land of fire and ice
10
Exped ition Cruise s! Antarc t i ca G , alápag os, Ala and m s ore... ka
Galicia
Pilgrimage to the sea
Finland Thrills on snow
Palestine Beyond the wall
Cambodia
Ancient temples, remote islands and rare wildlife: Our 10-page guide to the Southeast Asian treasure
+ Feasting in Oaxaca | Sweden’s Ice Hotel | Mosuo Tribe in Photos
From the Road 30 | Dispatches: Galicia
Go behind the scenes of the region’s mariscadora tradition and get acquainted with a lesser-known side of Galicia.
38 | Just Back: Finland
Plunge under the ice and go snowshowing with us as we uncover a flurry of winter activities to do in Finland.
54 | Feast: Mexico
Oaxaca springs one surprise after another – we head into its colorful markets to tease our taste buds.
62 | Under the Radar: Palestine
The secret underworld of Palestine remains unknown to many, venture beyond the wall to find out.
Iceland
Destination Features
Galicia p30
18 | Iceland
Climb active volcanoes, hang from mammoth glaciers and swim between tectonic plates on this Arctic island nation.
46 | Lugu Lake, China
A photo essay on the last matriachal kingdom in the world: the Mosuo tribe in the Yunnan/Sichuan province of China.
70 | Travel Guide: Cambodia
From Angkor to the Mekong, we bring you through every mountain and beach in the Southeast Asian treasure - with this 10page travel guide.
18
Mexico
54
Regulars
Insider
06 | Snapshots Feast on photo contributions from our
60 | Calendar A look at festivals and events happening
readers around the world.
16 | Trip Ideas Ten expedition cruises for adventure-lovers
– sail from Antarctica to the Solomon Islands. 84 | Travel Rant Columnist Mike Sowden muses about our skewed perceptions of rudeness when abroad. 85 | Travel Thoughts Our regular contributor Candace Rardon discusses the ethics behind photographing people. 88 | Sketches The Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, in bright colors.
around the world this winter. 82 | Stay Finding Narnia in the icy lair of Sweden’s Ice Hotel. 86 | Gear The holiday season is almost here! We offer some Christmas gift ideas for travel addicts.
W IN a
!
Baja Trip to C See aliforn i p
a age 37
62 Palestine
Finland p38
China
70 Cambodia
46
Bhaktapur, Nepal
“
Bhaktapur is an ancient city 15 km east of Kathmandu, located along the old Tibet trade route. The 15th-century city is a great place to explore on foot - through its temples and squares, and past painters, potters and weavers. At one of the street corners, I stumbled upon a serene grandmother and her granddaughter who sat down for this image. Their faces display the innate character of the Newari people. - Tim Leonard 4 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
Send us your photos and the stories behind them to editor@wildjunket.com www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 5
Words Nellie Huang | Photographs Alberto Molero & RTH Sigurdsson (Discover th 6 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
Far from Europe’s crowd-pullers lies the Arctic island nation of Iceland, where a world of ferocious volcanoes and cracking glaciers awaits.
the World) www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 7
L
eft, right, ice sticks in; Left, right, feet up. First sling each axe into the wall of ice, then kick the foot spears into the wall. It looked easy enough when our guide Røbert Halldorsson scaled up the solid glacial wall like spiderman on ice. But once I got on that vertiginous wall, it was clearly mission impossible. The chunky ice cliff stood at a humble height of approximately 32 feet (10 meters), but getting up there was no easy feat. “Find hard pockets for support,” Røbert advised. I had no clue what he meant. My lungs were burning, my shoulders were screaming, and my mind tried to concentrate on what lay ahead of me. I plummeted my ice axes into a patch of cracked ice and pushed my body upwards with all my strength. I couldn’t hear anything, except for the crunch and the swish of my poorly orchestrated movements.
8 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
All that followed was a blur as my world spinned 360 degrees in fastforward motion. Thank goodness for the harness – I ended up hanging mid-air, in the safe hands of Røbert. My first attempt at ice-climbing and it was a complete failure; at least I overcame the rush of pounding nerves and got myself mid-way up the wall. Thirsty for some adventure, my husband Alberto and I were here to explore the outdoors and Iceland was proving to be quite a challenge.
No Man’s Land Marooned just outside the Arctic Circle, Iceland is a Nordic island nation that’s barely three hours away from London by plane – and yet anchored within its own world of raw and untouched wildernesss. Volcanically and geologically active, the country is a land of extremes: its coastlines are fringed with jagged fjords; its interior is speckled with lava
fields, bubbling mud pools, erupting geysers, active volcanoes and topped with larger-than-life glaciers. Thanks to its location on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge – the dividing line between the Eurasian and North American continental plates – Iceland is a potent concoction of geological formations. Our journey started in the Icelandic capital, Reykjavik: a small and artsy city buzzing with activities, sprinkled with Scandinavian huts and a cluster of bars and museums. But beyond Reykjavik, Iceland puts on quite a show with its sweeping landscapes of ice mountains and tundra plains. This natural, rugged wilderness was the side of Iceland we were eager to explore. Fortunately it is all easily accessible from Reykjavik. On board a rented 4WD jeep, we headed out to the southwestern coast and seemingly entered a different world. Despite its very chilly name, Iceland really is green – its landscapes
DESTINATION ICELAND
Left: Climbing up the S贸lheimaj枚kull Glacier; Right: Selfoss waterfall. www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 9
Rain-saturated and teeming with seafood, Spain's Galicia region lures not just pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela, but also fisherwomen to its shores. 10 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
Words & Photographs by Erin Ridley www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 11
DISPATCH SPAIN
A
loud squelch escaped as I wriggled my feet into a chilly pair of thick rubber boots. They’re not my normal choice of footwear for a trip to the beach, and yet here on the shores of Galicia, in the northwestern corner of Spain, I fit right in. With a rusty garden-like tool in hand, I surveyed the mudflats before me, filled with several hundred women in waders and boots just like mine. For some three hundred years, these local fisherwomen – called mariscadoras – have made their way to Galicia’s shores, driven by the tides to dig for shellfish. Typically too far-flung a region for tourists to visit, Galicia gains much
of its fame as the final stopping point on the often-spiritual cross-country hiking trail, the Camino de Santiago. While a few carry on through rolling green hills that echo with bagpipe-filled tunes – challenging Iberian clichés of arid plains and flamenco soul – most exhausted pilgrims finish their voyage in the city of Santiago. But many visitors don’t realize that just a bus-ride away hides another worthy destination: the Rías Baixas (lower river inlets) – home to idyllic pueblos, fertile coastlines and the troops of fisherwomen that comb them.
Beyond the Tide My fascination with the fisherwomen
began a few years ago, while visiting the fishing pueblo of Aldán. I spent my trip gazing at the tide outside the granite window of an old fisheryturned-hotel. The morning sun kissed the port, its bobbing dinghies, and the lush, eucalyptus-lined shore that dipped from the low-lying hills into the water. Eager to see more of the region, I left the comforts of my window on the fishermen world behind and traveled north from Aldán to a hook-like peninsula, arriving in the town of O Grove. A row of faded, terracottatopped buildings lined the boardwalk, where Spanish grandmas and grandpas were taking leisurely paseos. Like so many other Galician coastal towns, it appeared sleepy when, in
“Like so many other Galician coastal towns, it appeared sleepy when, in reality, most of the hustle and bustle doesn’t happen on dry land“ 12 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
DISPATCH SPAIN
The calm and peaceful town of Aldรกn Left to right: Puri, a mariscadora collecting shells with a rake and bucket in hand; A lonesome boat floats off the coast of Aldรกn www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 13
Frozen Thrills Who says winter can’t be fun? We dive under the ice in Finland to find a world of adventure.
14 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
Words Stuart Forster | Photographs Stuart Forster & Visit Finland www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 15
A
flurry of snow and ice surrounds me. The Arctic wind whips my red cheeks, rosy from both the subzero temperature and the adrenaline rush. My body trembles, with nothing between my bare skin and the cold. Last minute doubts are starting to kick in as I jog down the steps leading towards the ice-pool in Lake Pyhäjärvi at Nokia, 10 miles (16km) west of Tampere. The name of the small town is, of course, recognized throughout the world for its wellknown telecommunications giant. Hundreds of spectators are standing on the pool embankment watching the Finnish Winter Swimming Championships, cheering on the participants. Indeed, winter swimming is a popular activity in Finland, with almost 800 swimmers participating in these annual competitions. Most are Finns but Russians, Latvians, a handful of Brits and a single New Zealander are also taking part in this year’s race. Locals have been telling me it keeps them healthy and strengthens their immune system. “Emerging from the pool following a winter swim is the best sensation in the world,” says one of my local friends who swims in winter just for the fun of it. Along with five other competitors, I’m taken into a tent next to the pool and the rules are explained, in Finnish then English. The key point that I have to remember is not to put my head under the surface of the water, which has a temperature of just over 33.8°F (1°C). It will mean disqualification, but more importantly, it also increases the risk of us passing out. Professional divers, I’m assured, sit waiting in dry suits in case of emergencies. It’s time to head outside for the race. My heart pumps louder than before, pounding like a drum roll. My awareness heightens as I realize that it is too late to back out. I clench my
16 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
“Breathing harder than usual, I climb out of the pool and a tingling feeling ricochets through my body like low voltage electric shocks” teeth to prepare for the numbing chill as I lower my foot into the water. Yet the cold of the water clearly heightens my perception as I’m able to understand whatever Finnish is for “take your marks” before the buzzer sounds. The race is just 25 meters but this isn’t like swimming in a standard pool; I have to concentrate, forcing my arms to pull through the strokes and my legs to kick. Even though the contest takes just a matter of seconds I can hardly feel my arms and legs as I approach the finishing mark. Breathing harder than usual, I climb out of the pool and a tingling feeling ricochets through my body like low voltage electric shocks. Perhaps it’s the adrenaline rush or the sense of achievement, but a renewed energy
quickly replaces the electric bolts.
Stomping Tampere Over the next few days, I learn that winter doesn’t necessarily keep the Finnish indoors. To seek out more of Finland’s winter pursuits, I head to Tampere, the lively university city 106 miles (170km) north west of the capital, Helsinki. With over 215,000 residents, Tampere is the biggest inland city in any of the Scandinavian or Nordic countries. It was founded as an industrial town on the isthmus between two lakes, Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi, which are now largely used for outdoor activities. Despite drastic urban development, backcountry
JUST BACK FINLAND
White beauty: Snow surrounds me at Tampere (top left); swimming in winter (top right); modern snowshoes. www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 17
ay
s
s
Pho
to
E
A look at the last matriarchal kingdom in the world
“O
ne night after I turned 13, I rowed across the lake to her house. It was 2am when I knocked on her window. But she didn’t let me in. I went back every night for seven more years before she finally did.” On the bumpy mountain roads to Lugu Lake, our driver and local guide, Jing Ke, tells us stories from his childhood, beginning with his own love story. At 8,800 feet (2,700 meters) above sea level, Lugu Lake – on the border of China’s Yunnan and Sichuan provinces – wins the hearts of many with its deep blue water and fresh mountain air. But visitors come for more than the natural scenery. For thousands of years, Lugu Lake has been home to the Mosuo tribe, believed to be one of the world’s last matriarchal societies. In their world, women make the major household decisions. They control finances, receive the right to property, and have full custody of their children. Generations live together, with the grandmother as the head of the household. The Mosuos never marry either; instead, they practice a tradition known as “walking marriage.” They enter adulthood at 13 years old. From then on, women can take as many lovers as they wish over the course of their lives. Just as Jing Ke describes, male companions visit the women’s homes at night, in secrecy, and return to their own homes in the early morning. Any resulting children are raised solely by the woman’s family. Although he is in his 30s, Jing Ke, like most people in his tribe, has never met his father. “Do you have any kids?” My travel companion blurts out upon learning the concept of “walking marriage.” “Probably.” Jing Ke shrugs nonchalantly, for there is no stigma among Mosuos in not knowing one’s own father. As our van climbs further up the mountain, Jinke explains that Mosuo lovers take no vows to stay together through sickness and health, nor through the good times and the bad. They simply maintain the relationship when they’re happy, and break it when they’re not. And although some Mosuos stay monogamous for life, I am told that this is the exception, not the rule. When we ask to hear the ending of Jinke’s childhood love story, he remains silent. Instead, he goes on to describe his other girlfriends past and present. But later, in a private conversation, I ask if he’s happy with his current love life. “It is the way of the Mosuos.” He smiles. 1
18 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
A Woman’s World
Words & Photographs By Tracy Zhang www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 19
Words & Photographs by David Hammond 20 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
On the Pacific coast in Mexico, we find a culinary culture that springs upon us one surprise after another.
www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 21
words & Photographs By Megan Eileen McDonough 22 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
Shrouded in mystery, the land of Palestine has always been a big unknown. We go behind the barriers to find a world of ancient culture, history, and unspoken strength.
www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 23
I
sit statue-like, my eyes transfixed on the unnatural wall snaking through the distant Judean hills. Approaching the unwelcoming concrete barrier dividing Israel and Palestine, I stiffen as the security officer asks for my identification. While he looks over my passport, my driver, Anas, turns around in his seat and begins sharing his story with me. “I was born in Israel but I am Palestinian, which makes things a bit tricky” he says with a humorous indifference. “Neither can grant me an official passport so I was issued one from Jordan, which is why I can drive to both Israel and Palestine without difficulty.” Casually explaining his complicated citizenship status as if it makes perfect sense, I can’t help but note how different his reality is from mine. As my time in Palestine unfolds, I will slowly become acquainted with a far more civilized nation than what I expected to find. Despite the conflict and unrest that is so often associated with this region, the state is filled with many sites of religious and historical importance – that a world far too absorbed by the other end of Palestine has yet to notice. Gaza, a region Palestine is notorious for, remains off-limits to visitors. But I'm in the West Bank, a hilly region that surrounds the northern and southern reaches of Jerusalem. In spite of the headlines, I can hardly sense any danger in sight. As Anas steers our car away from the checkpoint, my mind races with questions about the land beyond the wall.
Religious Rebirth After chatting with Anas on lighter topics for the rest of our drive, he points to a man just outside the Church of the Nativity in oldworld Bethlehem. While Palestine is primarily a Muslim territory, the majority of tourists who visit each year are Christian, due to Bethlehem’s 24 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
“As my time in Palestine unfolds, I will slowly become acquainted with a far more civilized nation than what I expected to find.” significance within the Bible. This famed stone basilica is just one of the sites that draws them here. Anas introduces the man to me as my local Palestinian guide, Abu. Despite his intense stare, Abu’s quiet personality and polite nature effortlessly soften his outward shell. As soon as we reach the church, he leads me through the small entrance, also known as the “Door of Humility,” as its low design ensures that every visitor has to dismount his horse or cart in order to enter. With my own head bowed, I enter and gaze up at the grand altar, and faded mosaic tiles that cover the floor. Considered the oldest church still active today, the historical site is also home to the underground Grotto of the Nativity, the believed birthplace of Jesus. After a few minutes with Abu, it’s clear he knows this place like the
back of his hand. There is a carefree confidence he carries with each step. As I marvel at the two rows of stone pillars stretching from the floor to the high ceiling, Abu's comfort and ease lessen their intimidating architectural appearance. He confidently signals for me to follow his descent into the cave, where Armenian priests recite their morning prayers. As I stand in silence, with only the priests’ melodic chants ringing softly in my ears, I find myself unable to move.
Local Living Upon leaving the Church of the Nativity, Abu suggests we browse through Bethelehem’s local food market. As we walk up the short stone steps illuminated by the day’s intensifying heat, he stops every few paces, conspicuously handing coins to beggars crossing our path. Abu’s kindness catches me off guard,
UNDER THE RADAR PALESTINE
World of Mystery: Bethlehem Street (top right); a fountain in Jericho, dubbed the oldest city in the world (middle left); a prayer wheel in a temple (bottom left). www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 25
Unearthing the Past From its wildlife-rich jungles to paradisical, remote islands, Cambodia is welcoming visitors with opened arms.
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS By Chad Chisholm 26 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13
www.wildjunketmagazine.com | 27
North Korea
Into the hermit kingdom
Zambia
Wildlife revival in Liuwa
Hong Kong
Feasting on dimsum
Sierra Leone Unspoken strength
Afghanistan Behind closed doors
Israel
A 10-page guide of the holy land 28 | WildJunket Winter 2012/13