Wild Northeast | Winter 2017 by Wild Northeast

GR ANITE BACKCOUNTRY

HISTORY OF UVMFST

ADK ADVENTURE CLIMBS

After a day in the mountains, don't forget to exercise your

brain.

Find the CLUES! Solve the PUZZLES! Escape the ROOM! A great activity for family and friends, especially on rainy days! 32 Mountain Valley Blvd, North Conway, NH (603) 730-5009 â&#x20AC;˘

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PHOTO ABOVE Winter mountaineering on Mt. Washington. Photo by Matt Baldelli.

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The Team

Meet some of the contributors

CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHER/EDITOR Ian Ferguson ART DIRECTOR Lee House MARKETING Kat Thorney INTERN Brynn Pedrick

Brooks Curran

Stephen Lansing

Olivier Dion

Steve Larson

Peter Doucette

Josh Laskin

Andrew Drummond

Freddy Morin

Catherine Ferguson

Gabe Rogel

David Govatski

Anne Skidmore

Jared Heath

Tee Smith

Dan Houde

Thomas Thiery

Kevin MacKenzie

Jamie Walter

Andrew McClellan

Bernd Zeugswetter

Hilary McCloy

Francis Zuber

Matt Baldelli

Brooks Curran

Peter Doucette

Andrew Drummond

Catherine Ferguson

Jared Heath

Hillary McCloy

Stephen Lansing

Stephen Larson

Josh Laskin

Gabe Rogel

Anne Skidmore

Noah Labow

Contents 6 Outlook 11 Featured Climb: Way in the Wilderness 12 Unlocking the White Room 14 ADK Adventure Climbs 16 Climbing for Good: Majka Burhardt 20 Welcome to Newfoundland 22 More Than Dogs 24 UVMFST 26 Mountainside Lodging 28 The Spicy Dike 29 Mercantile / Events 30 Deep December 31 Eastern Hospitality

on the cover: Sean Mullins hops through the powder forests of the Sugarloaf sidecountry. Photo by Jamie Walter.

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FSC FPO Jamie Walter

Bernd Zeugswetter

outlook

Unknown climbers on Pinnacle Gully, a classice WI3 climb on Mt. Washington. Majka Burhardt on Repentence, WI5, Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, New Hampshire.

J A R E D H E AT H GABE ROGE L

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J A M I E WA LT E R

Olympic champion and Mainer Seth Wescott demonstrates the art of the Eurocarve at Sugarloaf, Maine. Majka Burhardt climbs the Green Chasm on Mt. Webster, New Hampshire.

B E RN D Z E UGSWET TE R

ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

Dylan Dipentima on the skin track at Stowe, Vermont after a December storm. A winter campsite at dawn in the Catskills, New York.

B R O O KS C U R R A N JOS H L AS KI N

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TEE SMITH

Eyeing the winter swell at Long Beach, New York. Luke Brown hits a snowmaker's side-booter at Sugarloaf.

J A M I E WA LT E R

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Red Jacket Mountain View Resort in North Conway, NH is the perfect location for outdoor winter adventures with spectacular mountain views, spacious accommodations and top-notch service. Explore trails directly from the resort on snowmobiles, snowshoes or cross-country skis. Or ski and snowboard at nearby Cranmore and Attitash before returning to the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s indoor water park. Choose from ski condos, 4-bedroom vacation homes or traditional guest rooms. Let the adventure begin!

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Way in the Wilderness a less-travelled classic, Way in the Wilderness, (II NEI 5), is a unique climb with fantastic exposure for a route that’s generally tucked into a corner. It was first climbed by Jim Dunn, Michael Hartrich and Peter Cole in 1978. Steep south and west facing walls frame a spectacular fall line, and make it a perfect choice for really cold days. The stacked pillars that choke the chimney take some time to form, but generally, by mid-January, the route comes into condition. The approach is not trivial. There’s the hurdle of crossing the Swift river or the run-around from the Albany covered bridge. The good news is, you’ll be warm after you’ve navigated to the base. Even in a good snow year, there’s rarely snow on the ground at the base of this southwest facing amphitheater— it always melts. Remember though, sunny aspects and ice are a delicate combo. The 30’ wall of ice above the route and out of view catches early sun and sheds ice that may threaten mid- and late-day attempts. Mind your timing and conditions, and you’ll enjoy an awesome day in a beautiful setting.

— peter doucette

photo: Peter Doucette climbs Way In Wilderness on the Painted Walls in Albany, NH. Photo by Anne Skidmore. ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

Unlocking the White Room Granite Backcountry Alliance is leading the charge to bring more backcountry glades to the White Mountains.

by ian ferguson photos courtesy of Tyler Ray

N EW HAM PSH I RE has more skiable terrain above treeline than any other state east of the Mississippi, but when it comes to skiing the trees, Vermont is the undisputed king. Organized, volunteer-based groups manage dozens of tree-skiing zones that are easily accessible and open to the public throughout the Green Mountain state.

With the rise of the Granite Backcountry Alliance, White Mountain backcountry skiers are poised to follow suit. Formed in 2016, the Alliance organizes volunteers and works with public and private landowners to build and manage gladed trails in the mountains of New Hampshire and Western Maine.

When properly managed, trimming branches and small trees doesn’t harm a forest. The practice is called glading, and Vermont has it down to a science. The Brandon Gap area near Rochester is a prime example. With descents up to 1,200 feet, Brandon Gap features gladed lines and uphill trails in four separate zones accessed by two parking areas. National Forest officials approved glading in the area in 2015, and worked with trail designers to prevent negative impacts to the ecosystem. “Here’s a case where backcountry use has been explained and approved in a National Forest, and it’s perfectly applicable to what we want to do,” Drummond said.

“After seeing how Vermont has embraced backcountry Tyler Ray, skier-in-chief and founder of GBA, said -specific activities and how successful that has been, the Alliance will work with Vermont organizations there’s a big sense that should be doing similar things such as the Vermont Backcountry Alliance, Catamount here in the White Mountains,“ said Andrew Drummond, Trail Association and Rochester Area Sport Trail a professional skier who is on the GBA Board of Alliance to gain expertise, even hiring some of the same Directors. trail designers. Ray has steered the Granite Backcountry Alliance toward a broad strategy rather than one focused Tree-skiing zones are limited in the White Mountains, on specific zones. and when most people think of backcountry skiing in New Hampshire, they picture Tuckerman Ravine “By working with government agencies and landowners and the above-treeline terrain of the Presidentials. at the local, state and federal level, we can develop a The problem is, the alpine terrain in the Presidentials more streamlined process to be able to seek approval is defined by avalanche danger and extreme weather for specific areas,” Ray said. “Another big strategy for much of the winter. Add to that the meteoric rise is creating partnerships with other organizations. of backcountry skiing as a sport, and you have the For instance, we’re working with local mountain bike makings for crowding on limited trails, illegal cutting chapters to build multi-sport trails, and that has been and friction over “secret stashes.” really successful so far.” Glading has already begun in Gorham, where GBA teamed up with Gorham Land Conditions might be downright gnarly above treeline, Company and the Coos Cycling Club to create glades but among the shelter of the trees, snow remains on an established trail system, Ray said. undisturbed by wind and sun long after the storm. The only obstacles to this powdery realm are the In addition to creating new glades, the GBA seeks to dead branches and face-whipping saplings that choke leverage New Hampshire’s rich ski history to increase the otherwise open lanes down the mountainsides. backcountry options. Back when backcountry skiing 12

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ABOVE Skiers are increasingly choosing the skintrack over the chairlift. Photo by Francis Zuber.

LEF T Tyler Ray, founder of

the Granite Backcountry Alliance, airs out in the bowl at Tuck's.

BELOW Ray on Dodge's Drop. The GBA seeks to expand New Hampshire's backcountry terrain beyond the alpine.

was the only kind of skiing, the Civilian Conservation Corp cut a number of ski trails on peaks around the state. Some of those trails, such as the Doublehead Ski Trail in Jackson, remain popular for backcountry skiing, but many others have become overgrown. The GBA will be able to organize volunteer work parties to keep these historic trails open for skiers and snowboarders. So far, volunteers have been lining up, pruners at the ready to help glade their local terrain as soon as they gain permission. When Ray set out to form GBA a year ago, he had a hunch his idea would spark some interest. He didn’t expect the concept to take off as strongly as it has. The Facebook page was launched over the summer, and within six weeks more than 1,000 people were following the page. A film festival to support the fledgling organization sold out the upstairs of the International Mountain Equipment gear shop in North Conway in 20 minutes. A second film fest at Allspeed in Portland, Maine was equally well attended. “It’s becoming more and more clear that we’re onto something big here,” Ray said. “We’ve touched on something that is close to people’s hearts.” What could be closer to a skier’s heart than the Nirvana-like state of skiing through deep, untracked powder? If glades are the hallways that lead White Mountain skiers to the White Room, then Granite Backcountry Alliance aims to find the key.

ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

Remote and variable, the slides and faces of the Adirondack High Peaks offer challenge and reward for bold mountaineers

by kevin m ac kenzie

Winter mountaineering in the Adirondacks is rugged and thrilling. Step off the maintained trails and you have a plethora of options, whether you’re bushwhacking, technical ice climbing or climbing the mega-slides of the High Peaks. Most people consider the Gothics’ North Face to be the classic Adirondack face climb, but several others are worth the effort, especially if you want solitude. Temperatures and precipitation dictate whether they are snow/neve, ice or mixed climbs, so prepare accordingly. These “adventure climbs” are deep in the backcountry, so approaches are lengthy and usually involve some bushwhacking. Each has unique challenges and offers vistas that are rarely seen except by those who share this passion. While the Adirondack Mountains aren’t known for frequent avalanches, they do occur on most faces. It is critical to carefully assess the weather conditions ahead of time. Also, it’s important to stay off any exposed alpine vegetation, since it is most vulnerable to damage during winter. More detailed accounts of each climb: adirondackmountaineering.com

14W I L D WN IOLRDT N H EO AR ST HT E A S T

Basin Mountain East Face

This is one of the most remote face climbs in the Adirondack Park and involves a 17.5-mile round trip with 5,300 feet of elevation gain. Day-hiking this gem is extremely difficult; allow 16 hours minimum. Widened by Hurricane Floyd in 1999, the face is roughly 1,500 feet wide with over 700 feet of elevation gain. There is no obvious primary line, but the center offers the most exposed and challenging position. The stone is not a smooth expanse from top to bottom, so expect pockets of deep snow and ice bulges. Take the time to look behind you at the stunning views to the east! Approach from the Garden Trailhead in Keene Valley. Trek 3.5 miles to Johns Brook Lodge and follow the Woodsfall Trail 0.3 miles to a five-way intersection. Continue 3.1 miles up the Orebed Brook Trail to the Gothics/Saddleback col. Turn right and follow the State Range Trail about 1.2 miles over the summit of Saddleback Mountain, down the cliffs (there’s a winter herd path along their southern side) and over the northeast shoulder of Basin. Begin the bushwhack at the col before the summit. Descend southeast down the drainage to the bottom of the face. Exit by bushwhacking west from the top climber’s right-hand side to the State Range Trail. Follow the trail north to the summit. Descend to the col then back along the approach. Yes, that means you reclimb Saddleback!

Giant Mountain East Face

Pyramid Mountain South Face

Gothics East Face

Giant’s East Face involves a roundtrip of 6.5 miles with 4,600 feet of elevation gain. It is roughly 1,500 feet wide and gains 1,200 feet of elevation from its lowest point to the top of the middle slide tributary. Unique to this face is a defined ledge system that bisects much of it. To the north, the East Face meets the Southeast Face at a defined gully or crease. Those looking to climb neve with some WI2 ice should stay left of this, but if you’re seeking technical ice then the top of the crease has routes up to WI4. This tends to set up early in the season.

Pyramid Mountain’s South Face is a roundtrip of roughly 12 miles with 4,150 feet of elevation gain, assuming you bushwhack to the summit after the climb. It features a breathtaking view of Basin’s East Face as well as a huge buttress at the top right-hand side. The area is delineated into two areas that measure 1,100 feet across as a whole. The northeastern side is mostly cliff, but the smooth slab to the southwest, our target, offers 650 feet of elevation gain. In between lies a tree covered strip that leads to a defined gully. The aspect of the face makes it prone to melt-off so it too is rarely covered completely, but there’s usually enough neve and ice for a spectacular exposed climb.

Most people think of the North Face when considering a technical climb of Gothics, but all three primary faces contain excellent lines. The North and South faces offer the most technical full length options, but the East Face is also an excellent choice with a roundtrip of 13.3 miles involving 4,600 feet of elevation gain. Rather than being a single exposure, this area hosts a discontinuous set of slides. The largest slide, the Rainbow, is seldom fully covered, but other lines offer spectacular choices. There’s even a multi-pitch ice climbing route called The Four Rings of Saturn (WI4) if that strikes your fancy.

Park .2 miles south of Chapel Pond in Keene Valley. Follow the Ridge (Zander Scott) Trail 3 miles to the intersection with the East Trail to Rocky Peak Ridge. Make a right and descend to about 4,350 feet in elevation where the trail nears the southern edge of the face. Bushwhack about 100 feet to the north (left) until you reach the slide. Descend northeast to the bottom-most area and begin the climb. Exit in one of two ways after climbing. Either traverse across the top of the face back to the East Trail or ascend 400 feet due west from the central slide tributary to intersect the Ridge Trail near the summit. From the summit, follow the Ridge Trail back to the trailhead.

Approach from the public parking area along Route 73 in St. Huberts (across from Giant The approach is the same as Gothics East Face, Mountain’s Roaring Brook Trailhead). Follow Ausable Road .5 miles to the Lake Road Trail but follows the Alfred W. Weld Trail to the Sawteeth/Pyramid col. From the col, continue and turn left to the trail register. Continue for 3.5 miles to the Alfred W. Weld Trail. Follow about 1,000 feet up Pyramid then bushwhack the trail right about 1.2 miles to 3,200 feet in west (left) until you reach the South Face. elevation (after the last stream crossing before You may have to descend to its lowest point the trail begins steeply ascending Pyramid’s depending on where you emerge along its eastern ridge). Set a heading of about 345 base. Study it from below to find the best line degrees magnetic and stay well above Cascade for the ice/snow conditions. Brook to avoid blowdown. This leads to the After climbing, exit up the gully to Pyramid’s lowest slide after about .5 mile of moderate southeastern ridge. Bushwhack 800 feet up bushwhacking. the ridge to the summit and expect small Ascend the slide and follow a gully at the top intermittent ledges and brutally thick krumright-hand side to find the Rainbow Slide. mholz. Follow the trail south to the Sawteeth/ Conditions will dictate where you climb from Pyramid col and exit along the same route. here, but the options include a technical climb up the Rainbow if it is covered or left along its base. If traversing left, one can ascend Gothic Revival (WI2) which follows several steep slides beginning about 4,100 feet in elevation. This line leads left of the central roof and is steepest after 700 feet of climbing. An alternate option after the traverse leads straight up to the obvious roof and trends right to the highest slab on the face (crux). Either option requires a short bushwhack to the Range Trail. Thereafter, one can exit south over Pyramid to the Alfred W. Weld Trail or north and down the Beaver Meadow Trail.

ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

Climbing for the Greater Good From African alpine jungles to frozen waterfalls in New England, climber Majka Burhardt is comfortable on any vertical terrain. Now she’s using her skills to protect an ecosystem and the people who depend on it.

by ian ferguson photos by gabe rogel

Majka Burhardt was in her element leading an expedition on Mount Namuli in Mozambique. A professional guide, she has brought people up mountains all around the world, but this time her clients were scientists documenting one of the most diverse unexplored ecosystems in the world. Together, they discovered dozens of species, some never before seen, on the first ascents of Namuli. For many, the story might end there. The expedition was a major success; on to the next unclimbed mountain. But the expedition was just the beginning for Burhardt. Now she is using leadership skills developed on steep walls to run a global nonprofit that combines environmental stewardship with social empowerment. Called Legado, the organization aims to preserve the rare mountain ecosystem of Namuli while working with the human communities nearby. Going the extra mile is a theme for Burhardt, who is a top-level ice, mixed and rock climbing athlete. The Jackson, NH resident found time between running her company, training, climbing, writing a book and raising infant twins – a boy and a girl, five months old – to answer some questions for Wild Northeast. TOP Majka Burhardt on Repentance, WI5, Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire. BOT TOM Wrangling icicles on Great Madness, WI5, Mount Willard, New Hampshire.

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When did you start going to Africa?

I first went to Africa in 2006 when I was a journalist chronicling a story of the search for the origin of a rare coffee that garnered $150/lb. Once I saw photos of sandstone towers in the north of the country, I knew I’d stay in Ethiopia for the climbing. What makes Mount Namuli so special, and how did you first get involved with this mountain?

Mount Namuli is a trove for scientific discoveries with new species to science everywhere on the rock face, in the rainforests, the grasslands, and more. It is a vital part of the ecological landscape of the Eastern Afromontane ecoregion. It’s also seen as the ancestral homeland of over two million Lomwe people in Mozambique and Malawi. I got involved with Namuli when I became obsessed with Mozambique back in 2010 and realized it provided an opportunity to test my theory that climbing, science, and grassroots community conservation could be combined to make an impact far larger than the three of them in isolation. What was it like to lead the first explorations of this unique ecosystem with a team of scientists who were discovering new species?

Where were you born?

I was born and raised in Minneapolis, Minnesota. You were the fourth woman in the United States to become certified by the AMGA. In terms of your climbing achievements on ice or rock, how does that rank?

Pursuing professional AMGA status as a guide was exceptionally important to me from the start of my guiding career back in 1998. I started out guiding big mountains and expeditions around the world and then turned my focus to rock guiding in the early 2000’s and thus focused my certification in that discipline. Back then it was amazing to me that only three other women had earned any AMGA certifications before me. Since then there have been 73 women certified across the disciplines by the AMGA. It’s been an amazing time of growth.

Our 2014 expedition on Mount Namuli was a true testament to teamwork and tenacity. Every single person involved invested themselves 200% to pull off what would have been impossible otherwise. It was an honor to lead that group, and every day on the mountain I was thankful that I followed my instincts to create the versatile team that we had. In climbing these days, the motto is light and fast. To make an impact on Namuli and to do the hard work, accomplish the climb, make the discoveries, and listen to the community we had to have a different philosophy. We had to go deep and be thorough. Did you find anything completely unexpected up there?

Our scientific discoveries on Namuli included one frog species new to science, the southernmost record of a Caecilian in the world at the time of discovery, 40 ant genera, and 28 other amphibians and reptiles. How does Legado, the non-profit you founded, help support the people and biodiversity of the Namuli region of Mozambique?

Legado works hand-in-hand with the local communities encircling Mount Namuli to create a more sustainable future both for their lives and their environment. Our goal is for those communities to lead Continued...

the way forward with our support, versus our leading the way for their future. To do this well, and to do it sustainably, takes time. We have great local partners in Mozambique and right now we’re all working to create a community-managed protected area on the mountain in tandem with new agriculture programs that better preserve the health of the soils, increase yields, and nourish families. When your goal is to preserve one of the last rainforests in Mozambique and support the people who call it home you need to get creative and collaborative across all of your programs to make it happen. For those of us who haven't seen the film Namuli, how can we see it?

Namuli is on a global film festival tour right now with recent showings in Nigeria, Slovakia, and Montana. It’s also on tour with Mountainfilm and people can request it as part of that series, or inquire with us about hosting a showing. The film will also be available online in the late spring. Switching tracks, where do you live in New Hampshire?

My husband Peter Doucette and I live in Jackson, NH with our five-month old twins Kaz and Irenna. Compared to the Whites, there are many bigger, more impressive mountain ranges out west. As a top level mountain athlete, what made you decide to put down roots here?

The ice and mixed climbing in the Northeast were what drew me here initially—that and my then boyfriend, now husband. Add to that the rock climbing, the skiing, and the community and you have one of the best places in the US to live and train as an athlete.

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What are some of your favorite ice climbs in the Northeast?

Omega (Cannon), Remission (Cathedral), Within Reason (Frankenstein), Mindbender (Willoughby) Cocaine (Frankenstein)... there are so many. Any ice climbing goals for this coming winter?

I’m looking forward to climbing a full range of routes this winter and taking the time to explore some more of the classic moderates I have never done at the start of the season. I’ve never climbed Willies or Shoestring, for example— and getting back into shape post twin pregnancy is a great time to explore a new-to-you facet of your local climbing scene. I’ve come back from a dozen or so injuries over the years and have learned to enjoy the time when you get to rise back through the grades en route to climbing hard again. With twins to raise, do you still guide?

I moved to guiding part-time a few years back to allow me to have time to pursue my personal climbing goals and run Legado. I love getting out with new and long-time clients and book days through Peter’s and my company, Mountain Sense, mountainsenseguides.com How old will your twins be when they get their first climbing shoes?

In utero. Seriously. What's the next big project on your horizon?

I have a new book I’m working on to be published by Patagonia in 2018/19 about how and why I’ve pushed climbing up against environmentalism and social entrepreneurship— when it’s worked, when it’s failed, and why I keep trying to do it.

LEF T Majka Burhardt

places a cam on Spice is Nice, 5.11, Teton Canyon, Idaho.

RIGHT Wrapping an alpine

coil on the Palisades Traverse, Sierras, California.

Ditch the Lifts.

North Conway NH 6039862784

2 MOUNTAINS | 1 TICKET

Welcome to Newfoundland

SKIING THE WINDY COAST by olivier dion

In the imagination of many backcountry skiers, Newfoundland’s West Coast remains a mythical place. Many know there is as much skiable terrain as in Gaspésie and the snow is abundant, but few have skied there. Newfoundland is not easily tamed: strong winds, blowing snow, "whiteout" rainfall events. Everything happened on our heads in Newfie’s land.

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photographs by thomas thiery

NOTE This article was translated from the French.

Arrival on the island

Stay at Daine’s place: Tablelands and Gros Morne

The night is already well underway when we take possession of our hairdresser’s car. At the Deer Lake airport, the lady advises us to be careful about aquaplaning, especially with all-season tires. Outside, the rain welcomes us, tempestuous. After a few controlled slides, we land in a budget hotel. We will use the next day’s light to figure out where to ski.

Before we left for Newfoundland, we had heard of a hostel run by a guide in Sally's Cove. Daine Hewlin, who once guided a team from Ski The East, will be our host for four days. Accommodation is cheap (temporarily without hot water!). We get valuable advice from Daine during our few evenings spent together. He tells us when to go Tablelands, where we enjoy a beautiful "white-bird" day – overcast but with excellent visibility. It's better than nothing! It snowed the night before, but the strong winds blow at 120 kmh (75 mph). The land is impressive and new cornices above the lanes and bowls are intimidating. During our progress in the Trout River Bowl, we observe that the cornice broke recently, just enough to scare us and make us ski a little below its shoulder.

First day: discover Newfoundland

Upon waking, the challenges are manifold: find a restaurant serving bacon and eggs, recognize the front of a grocery store, and – most importantly – find the snow. After two episodes of intense rain, the entire snowpack is virtually decimated. With our bags full of food at the Foodland grocery store, we ask for directions to the Gros Morne National Park (pronounced with a strong Newfie accent if we want to be understood). We drive 70 km (43 miles) to reach Rocky Harbour, a small town in the heart of the national park. Once there, we quickly see that winter tourism is not very popular. The majority of shops and accommodations are closed, except for bars. We continue our exploration in the rain, looking for a place to sleep. We try Norris Point Youth Hostel, a former hospital converted into a community center / physiotherapist / hostel. Nobody at reception, no telephone. We simply borrow their Wi-Fi to find another place, an inexpensive cottage. First days of skiing: Killdevil and Big Hill

After the rain, the cold and snow have reappeared, and the wind remains constant. Armed with our crampons and ice axes, with little visibility, we tackle two exposed couloirs of nearly 600 vertical meters (1,970 feet). The surface is hard, so avalanche activity is near zero. A small snowfall allows us to ski storm wind slabs. This will be our only solace during the first two days of skiing.

The next day, we ski the Gros Morne. This is the calm before the next rainstorm – meaning the best day of our stay, with sunshine and no wind! We borrow the summer trail, and end up in crampons, again. The day is a success: 18 km (11 miles) of distance, 1,300 m (4,300 feet) of elevation and 30 cm (12 inches) of powder under the wind. Downhill skiing is not a common practice on that mountain. Southwest Gulch (SWG) Hut

We hope to spend our last days of the trip exploring the land around the SWG hut in the Tablelands. We spend the night listening to the hut groan in the 120 kmh (75 mph)winds. The next day, Thomas seems a little too motivated by the conditions. He seems to care only about the snowfall from the previous day, but forgets that visibility is only 10 m (32 feet), and the wind is still strong. It's hard to believe, but we end up skiing glades near the shelter in miraculously good conditions. The next day we are exhausted. We spend the morning skiing around the hut. Winds have finally calmed down. We climb the first bowl we find, full of snow from the last storm. We start our last day in Newfoundland in high spirits. We ski the Marble Mountain Resort. A surprise snowstorm filled the mountain with 35 cm (14 inches) of fresh snow, a beautiful gift before leaving.

ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

More than Dogs MUSHING IN QUEBEC

by stephen lansing

Photo by Dan Houde

“The problem is ahhh...how do you say...we don’t have enough...ahhh... tour guides. You will have to go alone.” The head guide said this to me in his French Canadian accent. The funny thing about saying, “How do you say," is that it’s almost always followed up with the exactly what the person wants to say. So in this case, my response should have been, “How do you say...I’m screwed.” While traveling in Quebec, I had decided to try dog sledding for the first time. I was questioning my decision as the guides’ French conversation around me was drowned out by the chorus of 200 huskies howling in unison. Not only have I never been dog sledding before, I've never even owned a dog. I was more familiar with Porkchop, the dog from the animated series ‘Doug,' than any real-life canine. Yet here I was, about to grab hold of a toboggan being pulled by six huskies, without a guide.

“Some questions, American...” The older guide barked in a seasoned voice that had seen too many cold winters. “Yes sir,” I replied, having absolutely no idea what I was doing here. “Do you…have Type II Diabetes?” He asked. “Umm, no,” I replied. “Ok, very well. Have you ever played sports?” He rebounded with immediately.

“Yes,” I answered, somewhat confused. It turns out the guides’ dialogue centered on What seemed like an eternity passed in a me and whether or not I could handle a sled three second pause. going 32 km per hour. The conversation was “…He will do!” The guide exclaimed, explodgetting animated and it seemed that two of ing into a bear of a laugh. the guides thought it would be a breeze for a Maine-born boy like myself. However, a more As ludicrous as this conversation seemed, senior, grizzled guide who appeared to be I later realized that the guide's questions in charge completely disagreed. The dispute were apt. He simply wanted to know if I was continued until, with one drastic word from a relatively healthy person with adequate the older guide, the group went utterly silent. coordination. As intimidating as dog sledding Slowly, the group leader turned to me, crossed may seem, almost anyone can do it, with or his arms, looked me right in my eyes, and without diabetes. interrogated me with questions I never would Eventually they brought out my snow chariot, have imagined. and they even trusted me enough to put another family’s child in the bed. Little Pierre had no idea this was actually my first time. They lined the dogs up in three pairs, with each pair consisting of a male and female. Interestingly, if two dogs of the same sex are put beside each other they don't run, but fight constantly. I stood behind the toboggan with one foot on each of two blocks of wood

The act of bolting through trails with a 24-paw engine is an excitement you have to experience to understand. 22

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extending from the back. A rubber mat floated between the two blocks, connected by a chain to each of the blocks. By putting my weight on this rubber mat I would dig into the snow, slowing down the toboggan. Dog sledding is an awful name to describe this sport, as it suggests that you laze back in a sled while a bunch of animals pull you. Though that could be a possible outcome for some, for me it was a team effort. When we came to hills I soon learned to jump to the side of the toboggan and push, keeping the speed steady. As we came into turns I would lean hard, counterbalancing the weight to ease the load and become more aerodynamic. We dashed through the trails, drifting corners with precision that left even little Pierre yelling, “Fantastique!” I was not the master but an equal member of a team of beings working together. These huskies seemed like more than dogs, each having a story that matched their distinct personalities. Jeriko was a strong, bold male who was raised to lead from birth. Maloukana, a female, was adopted from a local shelter and was a wild card. By the end of the voyage she had urinated on another team’s sled and mounted other male dogs, despite every husky being spayed or neutered. Terattenami was timid but by far the hardest worker, representing the backbone of our team. These beings were individuals with personalities that could match even my craziest friends. Despite having a greater familiarity with slush puppies than real puppies before trying dog sledding, I had an incredible time. The act of bolting through trails with a 24-paw engine is an excitement you have to experience to understand. You don’t need to be a sports guru or a dog whisperer to participate; anyone and everyone should feel the exhilaration of speeding across the snow on a dogsled, and the bond with your magnificent teammates.

WHERE TO MUSH

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INTERESTING FACT Huskies are obsessed with movement. Not exercise, but movement. Even those with serious injuries will beg for hours to be part of the mush, despite their pain.

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ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

U VMFST What began as a group of friends on skis is now an award-winning ski team

by catherine ferguson

E VE R S I NCE TH E F I RST ROPE-TOW was invented in Woodstock, Vermont in 1934, the University of Vermont has been a destination for young skiers. To this day, many would-be UVM students see its location, less than an hour from Vermont’s finest ski resorts, as one of the more compelling reasons to apply.

In 2007 a group of UVM students started participating in a style of skiing that was new to the university. Students Tess Hobbs, Jamel Torres, Jeff Neagle, Rylan Kochalka and several others came together to provide an outlet for the growing number of freestyle skiers at UVM. The Freestyle Ski Team (FST) was born, and it would go on to become one of the most well-known amateur ski teams in the country. The FST founders looked to the well-established UVM snowboard team as a template. “FST wouldn’t have been possible without the snowboard team,” Kochalka said. The snowboard team competed in freestyle competitions and had earned legitimacy from university administrators. Tess Hobbs, who now works at Squaw Valley in California, saw the need for a place for skiers who wanted to go outside the standard box. There were many skiers who came to UVM to ski cliff lines at Mad River Glen, lap Killington Parks, or seek out urban rails. It was Hobbs who decided to create a club for all those types of skiers to meet, hang out and share ideas. “The first few years of the team were parkskiing heavy, early ‘steezy’ skiing,” said Alex Levin, who served as president of FST in 2010. “I joined because I wanted to meet similar skiers at a big school. It was a no-brainer to join to make friends.” 24

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As the team progressed and became more legitimate, members were required to do one competition per year. For Torres, the early years of the UVM Freestyle team were an amazing time. “We finally had an organized way to get most of the core freestyle skiers together into one cohesive unit. It made it easier to go to competitions with the support of UVM. It also built relationships and friendships that may not have happened otherwise,” Torres said. As the seasons passed, the team grew and became more organized. They skied around the mountains of Vermont and got their name out. More and more freestyle skiers found out about the team. “I went to the Club Sports fair freshman year specifically to join the team,” said Max Ebenstein, class of 2013. As the team grew, so did funds. In 2011, FST president Stirling Cobb worked to bring coaching to the college club team. Coach Noah Labow became the first coach of a college freestyle team in the East. “There was an adjustment period, mostly for me,” said Labow, who was formerly a freestyle coach for Carrabassett Valley Academy in Kingfield, Maine. “I was used to lots of structured practices where training was mandatory. For FST, everything is optional, so I had to get used to that.” Labow hosted dry-land training and trampoline sessions in the off seasons, as well as coaching on snow. Hiring a coach was a beneficial move for athletes who were interested in progressing and competing. More athletes got involved in competitions, and it was another incentive to join the team.

Along with hiring a coach, the team gained sponsors and enough funding to pay for van rides to and from the mountain, competition fees and team sweatshirts. That year, 2011, brought forth opportunities such as competing at USA Snowboard and Freeski Associaion Nationals. Each year since, the team brings athletes who have been competing in slopestyle, rail jams, and halfpipe all season. Typically, UVMFST comes home with podium spots and overall team wins. There is also another side to the team: the backcountry kids. Dylan Dipentima (class of 2017) says that winning the 2015 Ski the East Freeride Tour was his biggest success while on FST. “Coach Noah helped me pick lines and work on tricks,” Dipentima said. He and a group of other team members who focus on backcountry skiing took advantage of an opportunity to travel west and showcase their skiing. They developed a web series called Notion, which was featured on Ski The East. It wouldn’t have been possible without help from FST.

LEF T Lexi Hanks ('15) slides a rail at UVM Ski and Snowboard Club's Dawn of the Shred rail jam. Photo by Freddy Morin. BOT TOM LEF T Paolo Rossi ('15) slides a rail at Stowe Parks. Photo by Noah Labow. BOT TOM RIGHT Sam Stimpson ('19) styles

an early-season backie at Stowe. Photo by Andrew McClellan.

What started as a group of friends sharing the passion of freestyle skiing turned into a structured program with about 80 team members. Each year, the team gains more interest and legitimacy. They now have their own competition series, the Triple Crown at Stowe, which is all ages and open to the public. Many alumni now work in the ski industry, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fair to say that FST is a staple of the East Coast ski community.

ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

Mountainside Lodging

by ian ferguson

owners of the Cog Railway, setting of the proposed site. Anne Skidmore is one of them. A want to build a 35-room hotel on the shoulder of Mt. Washington. photographer and climber from Madison, she frequently climbs Mt. The proposed site is at 5,600 feet, about a mile northwest of the Washington. “We have such limited alpine terrain in the Northeast summit, on a narrow strip of land owned by the railroad. to begin with," Skidmore said. "Any new development encroaching on that is a bad idea. I want to preserve our mounCalled Skyline, the proposed site lies in a land-use zone called tains the way they are.” PD6 that covers steep slopes and high elevations in unincorporated Coös County. According to the zoning ordinances, one David Govatski is a retired forester and naturalist from Jefferson purpose of the PD6 zone is to “preserve mountain areas for their who has conducted numerous bird, plant and butterfly surveys in scenic values and recreational opportunities.” Mt. Washington’s alpine zones. A prodigious hiker, he has redlined every trail in the White Mountains with a hiking resume Presby and Bedor presented their idea to the Coös County that dates back to the ‘60s. Planning Board in a preliminary hearing December 8th in Lancaster, New Hampshire. At the meeting, Senior Communi- “I’m very disappointed that the Cog thinks they could get away ty Planner for the North Country Council Tara Bamford was with a commercial development in the alpine zone,” Govatski said. asked to give her observations of the proposal as it relates to the “It sets a bad precedent.” zoning regulations. “This currently wouldn’t be allowed under As president of the local Audubon chapter, Govatski submitted existing zoning,” she said. to the planning board 17 reasons the hotel proposal should be An appreciative silence fell over the room, which was full of people shot down. The alpine zone on Mt. Washington is habitat for for and against the project. Fred King, vice chair of the planning delicate plants, rare birds such as the American pipit, and two board, spoke up. “Zoning regulations and statutes aren’t cast in protected butterfly species: the White Mountain Arctic and the gold,” he said. "That shouldn't mean close the book and go home." White Mountain Fritillary, both found only at high elevations in the Presidential Range. Indeed, the book is very much open on the project, despite strong public opinion against it. As of this writing, 6,836 people have The arguments against the hotel range beyond delicate wildlife. signed a petition against the hotel, while 586 have signed a Skyline is within 100 yards of the Appalachian Trail, a Congrespetition in favor. Many against are hikers, climbers and other sionally-designated route with protective requirements. It’s also outdoor enthusiasts who want to preserve the wild mountainous close to the Great Gulf Headwall, presenting a potential hazard WAYN E PRESBY AN D JOE L B E DOR ,

WILD NORTHEAST

Photo by David Govatski

The Cog Railway’s plan to build an upscale hotel on Mt. Washington is stirring backlash from the hiking community

"We have such limited alpine terrain in the Northeast to begin with," Skidmore said. "Any new development encroaching on that is a bad idea." to guests who are prepared for a luxury hotel experience, and not necessarily for extreme weather and terrain. The potential for accidents hits home for Skidmore. Her husband is on the Mountain Rescue Service based in North Conway, which responds to incidents on Mt. Washington. “When my husband gets called to respond to an accident up there, those are uneasy nights for me,” Skidmore said. Presby and Bedor say the hotel could be a staging point for rescue operations in that area of the mountain. Under their 25-year ownership, the Cog has been supportive of the outdoor recreation community. The Cog gives hikers free parking and access to trailheads. They switched their trains from smog-producing coal power to cleaner-burning bio-diesel, and removed construction materials left by previous owners from the sides of the tracks.

A hotel at Skyline would spread those crowds to a delicate alpine area that is currently undeveloped.” According to figures from the Cog Railway, the Mount Washington Auto Road and NH Division of Parks and Recreation, 374,000 people visited the Sherman Adams building on the summit of Mt. Washington last year, but only one in four of those visitors hiked the mountain to get there. The rest arrived via The Cog or the Auto Road.

The idea of staying in a luxury hotel on Mt. Washington appeals to many people. The Cog is seeking to capitalize on that demand, and therein lies the biggest problem for Doug Millen, an ice climber and builder from Mt. Washington Valley.

“I don’t like to see anything being built in a wilderness for profit, and that’s what this is,” Millen said. Despite popular opposition, the hotel could still get the green light if the Coös County Planning Board grants a permit or makes a special exception. As of this writing, the board has not announced a decision. To stay updated on the planning process, and to contact the planning board, visit cooscountynh.us/ planning-board.

Presby mentioned these facts when presenting the hotel idea to the planning board. He recounted the grand history of hotels on Mt. Washington (there have been two), and the Cog Railway itself. Built in 1869 by Sylvster Marsh, The Cog was the first of its kind. It appeared on the cover of Scientific American, and inspired copycats around the world such as the Mount Pilatus cog railroad in Lucerne, Switzerland. Presby also pointed out that the facilities at the summit suffer from inadequate sewage capacity, before offering a solution: “We’ll design our system to accommodate all the septic needs of the entire summit,” he said, explaining that hotel construction would include a sewage line running down the mountain to a leach field at the Cog Railway Station. The Cog owns a 99-foot corridor along the section of track at Skyline. Code requires a 25-foot building setback, meaning the hotel would have to receive a setback variance from the planning board or be under 49-feet wide. Presby said the hotel may be designed to straddle the track so guests can offload without being exposed to severe weather. He described the hotel as upscale, with well-appointed rooms and a full-service restaurant. In an interview, Govatski proposed an idea that might satisfy both the hikers’ wish to preserve wild spaces, and the Cog’s wish to build a one-of-a-kind hotel: build the hotel at the summit. “It could be built in the footprint of the Sherman Adams building, which is nearing the end of its lifespan,” Govatski said. “The summit is already overrun by crowds during the summer months. ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

THE SPICY DIKE by stephen larson

Mentioned only in dark ski shop basements or the back corner of the local pub, Mount Colden’s Trap Dike is the East Coast’s middle finger to those who say we lack spicy skiing. Tall granite walls and mandatory rappels are not reserved for western shredders! Located in the heart of the Adirondacks, The Trap Dike exists; more importantly, it goes. When the slide above the Trap Dike is skiable, a 1,800-foot elevator shaft plummets straight down through the Dike from Colden’s summit to Avalanche Lake. In minutes, you can descend from the golden panoramic views of the Adirondack High Peaks to a sanctuary of tall granite walls surrounding the icy lake underfoot. For those who are confused after the eye-watering descent, it’s still not the Rockies or the Cascades, but the East Coast. Whoa there! Put those skis or board down and rein in the excitement for a moment. Remember the mandatory rappels and towering walls I mentioned? In anything less than a stable snowpack, tackling the Trap Dike could leave you tumbling through avalanche debris, spit out on a frozen lake or spread like butter on icy granite. But when the conditions are in, and you can find a friend to beat the sun to Colden’s summit, consider tackling one of the country’s most unique descents. Just remember to keep stories about your victory to those ski shop basements or back corners of the pub. After all, the East Coast could not possibly have classic steep chute skiing, right?

Focused • Effective • Efficient Dedicated to the health and public enjoyment of our National Forests, the National Forest Foundation is leaving a positive legacy of vibrant public lands for generations to come. Here in New England, we look forward to continuing our work on New Hampshire’s White Mountain National Forest. With your support, we are working closely with the U.S. Forest Service and community partners to: • • • •

enhance recreational opportunities; ensure safe access to Tuckerman Ravine; connect with and engage local communities; and strengthen forest stewardship.

Learn more at nationalforests.org Become a Friend of the Forest® today!

WILD NORTHEAST

MERCANTILE

Maple Leaf Motel Escape the usual Exercise your brain

Can your group find the clues, solve the mystery and escape the room before the clock runs out? Escape rooms offer an interactive adventure great for friends and families. Check out MWV’s latest attraction!

32 Mountain Valley Blvd North Conway, NH mysterynh.com (603) 730-5009 info@mysterynh.com

Clean, affordable rooms in North Conway, NH Affordable lodging with a personal touch, Maple Leaf Motel is a family motel located in North Conway, convenient to all the mountains have to offer. Rates from $45 - 140 depending on the season and the room.

2212 White Mt. Highway North Conway, NH mapleleafnconway.com (603) 356-5388 (866) 356-5388 toll-free

Breakfast and books North of the Notch

Wilderness Mentoring Gap Year Capstone program

Located in Gorham in the heart of the White Mountains, the White Mountain Café serves a variety of hearty breakfast sandwiches, bagels, wraps, paninis, quiche and soups, as well as a wide array of enticing baked goods.

Students learn leadership skills, organizatation and responsibility through bi-weekly mentoring and seasonal trips, culminating with a 10-day expedition to Nova Scotia. Now accepting applications for the year beginning Summer 2017.

The White Mountain Café and Bookstore is proud to offer the best collection of books and guides on the White Mountains.

Instructor Ed Thorney is a certified Gestalt Therapist and wilderness educator based in the Berkshires. He has been an outdoor educator since 1982.

212 Main Street Gorham, NH

wildernesstherapyandmentoring.com

Winter EVENTS january 8 Nashoba Valley Rail Jam

February

March 3-5 Special Olympics Vermont

Nashoba Valley, MA usasa.org

Winter Games Woodstock, VT Suicide6.com

8 South Peak Skin and Ski Loon, NH Loon Facebook

13-15 ADK International

Mountaineering Festival Keene Valley, NY mountaineer.com/mountain fest-2017

14 Rikert Nordic Fatbike Roundup Ripton, VT rikertnordic.com

11-13 Cross Cat Touring

FEB. 3-5

Celebrate ice climbing, winter mountaineering and the people who make it a part of their lives at Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest. Variety of skills-based clinics and exciting slide shows with featured climbers and guides from the New England area and around the world. Ice Fest has been a fixture of the Northeast climbing community 24 years running.

mwv-icefest.com

FEB. 10-12

Get out on the ice for some climbing with other veterans of all abilities in Mt. Washington Valley. Guiding, lodging and food provided.

vetexpeditions.com/events

12 Ski Butternut Rail Jam Great Barrington, MA usasa.org

14, 21, 29 Granite State

8 Banff Mountain Film Festival

24-26 World Snowshoe

27-30 Catskill Ice Festival

12 Fat Tire Festival

25 Fattyfest by Polartec

Snowshoe Series Various NH locations granitestatesnowshoeseries.org

New Paltz, NY catskilliceclimbing.com

Lebanon, NH banffcenter.ca/mountainfesti val/worldtour/usa

Sugarloaf, Maine sugarloaf.com

Championships Saranace Lake, NY snowshoerunning.org Waterville Valley, NH fatbikenh.com

Challenge Wildcat, NH wildcat.com/events-calendar

11-13 Sugarloaf Banked Slalom Sugarloaf, Maine sugarloaf.com

18-19 Ski The East Freeride Tour Championships Jay Peak, VT jaypeakresort.com/events

Deep December After taking last winter off, Ullr delivered the goods in December 2016. Snowfall was all-time for Vermont, with more than 70 inches hitting the Stowe area by December 23. Photographer Brooks Curran captured the moment. Skiers: Dylan DiPentima and Travis Lee.

SEEKING PHYSICIAN Join our close-knit team of professionals SMALL, RELAXED FAMILY PRACTICE BEAUTIFUL RECREATIONAL AREA MORE INFO: TINYURL.COM/CONWAYPHYSICIAN OR CALL PATRICIA MCMURRY AT (603) 447-8900

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Eastern Hospitality The “Beast of The East” puts out a warm welcome for the women’s World Cup ski circuit by hilary m c cloy photos by andrew drummond MY F E ET VI B R ATE D F ROM TH E CROWD’S E N E RGY running through the wooden floorboards of the grandstand as each skier crested the knoll of Preston’s Pitch on Killington’s Superstar trail. Fog was beginning to engulf the pitch, the result of cold snow and unpredictable warm November temperatures.

I was part of a hungry crowd, 16,000 strong. It was a crowd that wanted to give each racer, whether from Slovakia, Italy, Sweden or the United States, a hearty, boisterous New England welcome. Built upon generations of ski racers, parents, coaches and friends, it was a crowd that had not had the chance to host a World Cup in the Eastern U.S. for 15 years. Having grown up racing in Vermont and New Hampshire, cutting my teeth on ice and grit before becoming a member of the United States Ski Team, this was a homecoming for me. Last October, Killington bid to host two women’s world cup events the following November – a Giant Slalom and Slalom. The news spread quickly through the Eastern Division of the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Association (USSA). The last world cup on the east coast was in 1991 at Waterville Valley, and the last in Vermont was in 1978 at Stratton Mtn. Any seasoned New England skier knew it was a gamble to commit to a race with the fickle weather and, if the mountain failed, it might mean another 25 year wait for the next bid. If the East was going to pull off an early season race, Killington, known as “The Beast of the East,” was the best bet. Boston, New York City, Burlington and most of northern New England are within a 3-4 hour drive. The Eastern USSA has more members than any other division. The population density of the Eastern US, the fervor of the fans and Killington’s snowmaking power and elevation were the perfect combination. I anticipated a remarkable moment in U.S. ski racing. The men’s and women’s World Cup tour descends on North America in the early season each year before heading to Europe. Aspen Mountain in Colorado often gets to host. However, this year they were approved to host the World Cup finals for the 2016-2017 season, and rules restrict any resort from hosting two separate world cups in one year. This left an opening for another North America resort to step up, and Killington saw their chance. The crowd was the beast we all hoped it would be – a fiery, loud and eager force. It surprised the European racers, coaches and the International Ski Federation (FIS). In Europe, ski racing is

"The crowd was the beast we all hoped it would be – a fiery, loud and eager force." More than 16,000 people turned out for the Killington stop on the Women's World Cup November 27. Burke Mountain Academy graduate Mikaela Shiffrin won the slalom.

like the MLB or NFL is here, and ski racers are superstars. Crowds are rowdy in Europe, but at regular season world cup races in Colorado crowds are much smaller. I can only imagine the European racers expected another paltry crowd at this new U.S. location. By Sunday, the racers had embraced the rowdy and raucous crowd. It was impossible not to notice the racers becoming part of the beast. Every racer, whether a race favorite or an unknown, crossed the finish line, looked away from the scoreboard to the crowd and pumped a fist. Every fist in the air was greeted with a roar. It was an emotional interaction and special experience; not the norm on the regular circuit. I sought out Resi Stiegler, a member of the U.S. team, to catch her and wish her luck. She and I were close friends when I was on the team and have kept in touch. Laughing, Resi said, “Oh, let me guess, you drove 3 hours to get here?” “Of course!” I replied. “Wouldn’t miss it!” As another racer crossed the finish line, I joined the cheering crowd. I was proud to be part of the beast.

ADVENTURE MAGAZINE

WILD NORTHEAST