2 minute read
Feature : Rueda
Where to stay: Hotel El Coloquio de los Perros
Valladolid
Zenit El Coloquio de los Perros is a lovely boutique hotel in the center of Valladolid, adjacent to the historic cathedral and the university. When we visited, the city and nearby villages held its Harvest Festival/fair in honor of its patron saint, la Virgen de San Lorenzo. It was the first-time locals and tourists could gather after two years of tight Covid restrictions. The streets were jammed with very people, food stands, and drink vendors.
The hotel offered an escape from the external festivities with its restaurant, bar, and private courtyard. Our room was modern and efficient. (E160-209 w/breakfast) https://elcoloquio.zenithoteles.com/es/
Hotel Felipe IV (Sercotel Felipe IV)
Valladolid https://www.hfelipeiv.com/en/
This business-type hotel is near the train station and Plaza Mayor. There is a cozy bar in the lobby and a restaurant with indoor and outdoor dining options. The rooms have wood floors and satellite television.
Hotel Pesquera AF
Peñafiel https://www.hotelpesquera.com/en/home-2/
We were advised that the tiny town of Peñafiel was a gateway from Rueda to Ribera del Duero.
While that may be a possibility, this is one horse town. If you do not have a car or driver, you can experience boredom in a New York minute.
Hotel Pesquera AF is owned by a famous wine family and offers delicious cuisine and wine.
The rooms are modern and exquisite, with excellent amenities. Our king room was spacious, with a super cool shower and a king bed on the second-level loft. Deluxe room (USD 210).
Where to Eat: Valladolid
Restaurante Trigo https://www.restaurantetrigo.com/trigo.html
We are rarely invited to visit a Michelin one-star restaurant. Santiago Mora Poveda, Director General of the Rueda DO, joined us at Restaurante Trigo. Chef Víctor Martín and his wife, Noemí Martínez, a sommelier, founded the restaurant in 2007.
The eclectic menu was paired with Rueda wines. The dishes were as visually stunning as they were favorable. For starters, the chef served a cube with a Bloody Mary inside. Appetizers included olive oil and cheese. The main courses had cuddle fish, oxtail, and pork. The restaurant offers several tasting menus (E65 to 95). ***** 5 Stars! Amazing Value!
Restaurante Gabi Garcia *****
The chef-owner understands food pairings with local wines. This is the kind of place where the chef does not hand out a menu. He asks about your wine preferences and creates his menu accordingly. The communications assistant from the Rueda D.O and two representatives from
Bodega Herrero and Castello Medina accompanied us at the restaurant.
The featured wines were:
Castello de Medina Sauvignon Blanc 2021
• Bodega Herrero Erre Verdejo 2021
Chef Gabi tasted both wines and suggested that he serve Baked Scallops and Broiled Swordfish with polenta. The pairings were delightful.
Restaurante Gabi Garcia https://restaurantegabigarcia.es/
Other Attractions
Peñafiel
Peñafiel Castle and Wine Museum https://www.valladolidesvino.es/Tickets
This historic fortified castle was built in the eleventh century. It is perched high on a hill and is visible as a landmark throughout the region. Today it is owned by the local council and has a wine museum showcasing the history of the local wine industry. You can visit for tours, including access to the castle rooftop and tower of tribute with expansive views of the valley.
Aranda
de Duero-Ribera del Duero
We visited this small city, population 33,000, on the Duero River on a Saturday afternoon to attend their annual “Virgen de las Viñas” harvest festival. The town was packed to the rim with locals and tourists, tripling in population, celebrating their freedom from Covid lockdowns. There was music in the streets, parades, and ceremonies, but most eye-catching were the “gigantes y cabezudos,” professional costumed giants, parading throughout the streets.
We ran into a seasoned marching band on a side street called “Los Sobrinos de la Tía Damiana,” which translates to “Aunt Damiana’s Nephews.”
To escape the crowds, we ducked into La Pícara Gastroteca, a fantastic wine bar with enoteca, to enjoy tapas and wines. http://ciudadeuropeadelvino.arandadeduero.es/?lang=en
