The Wine Merchant California Collection 2019 by The Wine Merchant magazine

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION

FIFTY WINES UNDER £50 • A WINE MERCHANT MAGAZINE SUPPLEMENT • MARCH 2019

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2019

THE WINE MERCHANT. Published by Graham Holter Ltd in association with the California Wine Institute www.winemerchantmag.com wwww.lovecaliforniawines.com

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alifornia has had its ups and downs in the UK market. The doom-mongers have certainly had plenty of material to work with over the past decade or so. California wines were overblown, too chunky and too old-fashioned for British tastes, the nay-sayers said – and even when these criticisms didn’t apply, the wines were too expensive. In any case, it was argued, California wasn’t too bothered about the UK. It had more than enough devotees in other parts of the world – and especially in its domestic market – to worry unduly about the sneers of the priceobsessed British trade. And yet our specialist wine merchants never really lost faith with California. Many have always done a brisk trade with the top-end Napa and Sonoma names – wines whose admirers frankly barely notice the price tag. And the more inquisitive merchants – especially those who managed to take a closeup look at what California has been producing of late – found that the middle ground had certainly not been vacated. There’s no doubt that California is now producing some seriously good wines, across a broader range of styles and price points than seemed to be the case (at least from a UK standpoint) a decade ago. Every year we put that theory to the test with our California Collection tasting, which this January involved 160 wines selected by importers who wanted to showcase old favourites, new arrivals and fresh twists on familiar styles. Crucially, all have retail prices of £50. Events like this underline why it makes little sense to talk these days of “California Chardonnay” or “California Cab” – there’s a spectrum of styles to explore, many of them demonstrating a finesse that surprises tasters with outdated preconceptions. Unfamiliar

varieties like Roussanne, Tempranillo and Albariño are being vinified with confidence and precision. This year we also had some accomplished natural wines to consider – and even wines in cans. The last accusation anybody can lay at California’s door right now is that it’s simply repeating the same old tricks. What about that thorniest of issues, the price tag? It’s true that California is not the first port of call for anyone in search of bargainbasement fare. But then we live in a time when quality wine from pretty much anywhere in the world is unlikely to be cheap. Just as in Bordeaux, Burgundy or Tuscany, California is selling its very top wines at eyewatering prices to the super-rich. But a little further down the price ladder, merchants are seeing that California is offering sharp value in comparison to many of its revered old-world rivals. Importers are doing greater justice to California than they once were, and the frustration which once existed that the UK only saw a tiny sliver of what the state was making is gradually subsiding. Welcome, then, to the 2019 Wine Merchant California Collection. What you see here are the results of a tasting in which our panel of independent merchants were able to see the wines they were assessing, to read the labels, and to apply whatever background knowledge they had of producers, regions, styles and varieties. Naturally, there were differences of opinion and wines that divided our panel. We think that’s a good sign. California winemakers are expressing themselves like never before, and that makes us all winners.

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OUR JUDGES henry butler butlers wine cellar, brighton

ben stephenson hangingditch, manchester

matt wicksteed Streatham wine house

euan mccolm highbury vintners, london

theo sloot oxford wine company

john williS uncorked, london

chris sherwood bottle apostle, london

sarah mccleery wine writer

graham holter editor, the wine merchant

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Domaine Carneros Sparkling Brut 2014 Carneros Hatch Mansfield, £28.55

“Crisp, with bright green citrus fruits”; “good flavour … lightly herbal and aromatic” and “good potential”, wrote judges of this Taittingerowned wine. The Estate Brut is dominantly Pinot Noir with 32% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Gris – all estate-grown. A “méthode traditionelle” wine that is aged for a full three and a half years in the estate’s cellars for added complexity and development.

Roederer Estate Quartet NV

ChAteau Montelena Riesling 2016

“Good complexity with a persistent finish” and “attractive, biscuity … a zesty and refreshing style”, enthused the judges of this great value sparkling wine. Estate-grown Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir are complemented by oak-aged reserve wines in each year’s blend. Fermentation takes place in high-grade stainless-steel tanks and there’s zero to minimal malolactic to ensure precision and freshness. Aged for a minimum of two years on the lees.

Winemaker Matt Crafton opted to partially barrel-age this Riesling for six months in French oak, which has given the wine a touch of clove and honey that did not go unnoticed. “Elegant, fine with a good balance of honey and citrus fruit” commented one judge. Another added: “Very ripe, perfumed nose … slightly honeyed. Broad palate with lovely fruit and concentration. Very neat presentation – good value.”

Anderson Valley, Mendocino County Maisons Marques & Domaines, £27

Potter Valley Bancroft Wines, £26.50

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Guenoc Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Gallica Albariño 2016

Guenoc Valley Berkmann Wine Cellars, £13.99

Rorick Heritage Vineyard Napa Valley Pol Roger Portfolio, £34.99

The Guenoc Valley can be found 60 miles to the north of San Francisco, and the almost 22,000-acre Langtry Estate is one of the largest contiguous private land holdings in California. Fruit is sourced from the estate and beyond. This is an unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, described as “very fresh and aromatic with lots of tropical fruit … an easily accessible, classical style” and “good Sauvignon Blanc character, medium body … very good value for money”.

Vines are planted at 2,000 feet where the soils are rich in limestone. The combination of elevation, soil type and limited water has delivered a delicately complex barrel-fermented white with floral and white orchard fruit flavours. “Tropical fruit on the nose, apricot … long and balanced and packed full of flavour and texture”, said the judges. “Beautiful palate, full of stone and citrus fruits with a lovely guiding line of acidity.”

Tendu White 2016 California Nekter Wines, £27

Very on-trend – a crown cap and in an extrafun one-litre bottle. The wine is a blend of Vermentino and Colombard that has been fermented in old oak barrels. The aim here is to make a fruity, fresh and easy-drinking wine and for the judges, Tendu delivered: “Relaxed and supple citrus fruits”; “delicate but grippy, with some delicious, gentle fruit and savoury elements expanding on the palate. Fresh, broad, plenty of length”. Winemaker Steve Matthiasson consults to some of California’s biggest names, including Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

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Three Thieves Pinot Grigio 2015 California Lanchester Wines, £11.99

In fact, this is 76% Pinot Grigio, 14% Colombard with Muscat, Riesling and Chenin Blanc making up the rest of the blend. The wine is cold fermented, with no malolactic fermentation to maintain bright aromas, fresh fruit flavours and refreshing acidity. “Fresh, easy, open with a decent plump core, no downsides and light concentration to finish,” the judges said.

Francis Ford Coppola Rosso & Bianco Pinot Grigio 2016 California Seabrook Wines, £13.49

“Punchy tropical nose, ripe fruit, good background acidity … good value, overdelivers” wrote one judge. Others were also impressed with the concentration of fruit, the wine’s balance and value for money. The fruit is sourced from The Pinnacles Bench in Monterey and Clarksburg just outside of Lodi – the warmer and riper of the two sites. The wine sees no oak at all, a splash of Chardonnay adding roundness.

J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Gris 2017 California E & J Gallo Winery, £20

“Zippy, loads of nectarines and mandarin with a touch of lees; very enjoyable” and “tropical nose – surprisingly fresh on the palate” said the judges of this stainless-steel fermented Pinot Grigio. The summer was warm and though care was needed to manage the growth to allow for the right amount of light penetration and airflow, there was little other intervention. The winemaking team ferments by plot and there is no malolactic; blending took place after the separate lots had been aged. CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2019 THE WINE MERCHANT |

Salus Staglin Family Vineyard estate Chardonnay 2014

Donkey & Goat Perli Vineyard Chardonnay 2016

“A wine that leaves me wanting more,” enthused one judge. “Clean, fresh, intense toasty nose. Lovely ripe supple tangy fruit; long, light cream; big, but has structure and good acidity on the finish.” The fruit is fermented in oak and 10 months ageing follows. Only a tiny proportion of the wine goes through malolactic for added texture.

At 2,200 feet above sea level, the steep Perli Vineyards are just a few miles from the Pacific Ocean with rocky soils that yield vibrant wines with the “backbone worthy of vines that see as many bears as humans”! Fermented with wild yeasts, the wine is aged in second-fill French oak barrels. The judges were impressed: “Tight nose, salinity and restraint … lovely, gently, subtle wine; great length.”

Napa Valley Pol Roger Portfolio, £47.99

Mendocino Ridge Nekter Wines, £39

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2014 Napa Valley ABS Wine Agencies, £49.99

They’ve called Miljenko “Mike” Grgich the “king of Chardonnay” since the winery’s beginnings in the late 1970s. The wine’s rich, elegant style certainly found favour: “classy … very good”; “a ripe, butterscotch and vanilla-infused Chardonnay” and “smoky, spicy orange nose; great balance, long and fine with freshness” were among the judges’ comments. The estategrown fruit comes from organically-certified vineyards and the wine is aged for 10 months in French oak barrels.

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Napa Cellars Chardonnay 2016

Schug Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2016

“A wine that screams of Napa, with a smoky, toasty nose and great aromatic complexity,” the judges said. “The palate is weighty; a big, ripe, oaky style with citrus flavours and some minerality. Long, complex and with an aromatic finish.” Hand-harvested, the fruit is fermented with 100% malolactic fermentation. Ageing takes place for seven months in French oak barrels, 35% of which are new.

“Fleshy, elegant, sleek Chardonnay with a lovely, mineral quality. Restrained; the green fruit has touches of spice and subtle oak presence”, said the judges, who appreciated the “supple attack with ripe green fruits”. The wine is 90% cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks with 10% aged on the lees for five months in 300- to 600-gallon neutral oak casks.

Sonoma County The Wine Treasury, £29

Napa Valley Lanchester Wines, £18.99

Joel Gott Chardonnay 2016

California Berkmann Wine Cellars, £14.99 This unoaked Chardonnay stood out for the value for money it represented for many of the judges. “A glint of gold in the wine’s hue … broad, soft in style with fresh citrus fruit – clean and uncomplicated”, they said. “Peach and apricot nose, soft and silky. Good value for money.” Fruit comes from vineyards in Monterey, Santa Barbara, Napa, San Luis Obispo and Sonoma. Each lot is vinified separately and then blended.

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Black Stallion Chardonnay 2016 Napa Valley Bancroft Wines, £24.50

“A gorgeous vanilla spice to the rich apple and pear fruit, toffee apple, golden syrup – rich but defined. Really attractive baked apple fruit, refined. Very well made,” said the judges of this “classic, well-priced wine”. Fruit comes from both warmer, upper valley vineyards and lower, cooler vineyard blocks, which has helped yield a full-flavoured, soft wine. The wine is partially fermented in oak, with this portion left on the primary lees for six months for added texture.

J Chardonnay 2015 Russian River Valley E & J Gallo Winery, £22

A stand-out wine for one or two of the judges. All of the fruit is sourced from coolclimate vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Fermentation takes place in French oak, one quarter of which is new. Each vineyard block and clone is kept separate until blending, giving the winemaking team 26 different lots to choose from. “Lovely praline nose, complex … all the things a Russian River Valley Chardonnay should be,” the judges said. “Good development on the palate which has spice and orchard fruit. Brilliant!”

Stolpman Vineyards L’Avion Roussanne 2015 Ballard Canyon Flint Wines, £49

“Fantastic concentration, oily and opulent … the palate has spice, is rich and mouthfilling with amazing concentration and extraction” and “bold, impressive with rich citrus and plump stone fruit, a touch of peach skin and proper length”, enthused the judges. Roussanne grapes are fermented in 500-litre Ermitage Vache puncheons, 75% of which are new. Only the two oldest blocks of the estate’s Roussanne are eligible for L’Avion and only the evenly “rousse” (sun-tanned) clusters are selected. CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2019 THE WINE MERCHANT |

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“the rieslings were pretty awesome.” euan mccolm highbury vintners I was surprised to see Riesling at the tasting. I wouldn’t think of California for aromatic whites and lighter, fresher styles but there’s clearly demand for it domestically. New varietals seem to be going down well with customers. We’ve got some really cracking Barbera on the shelf; the Tempranillo was good. The Roussanne jumped out at me. Those sort of things are moving away from just Chardonnay and Cabernet. You can taste the altitude in the higher sites – and you can taste the warmth in wines that get more sunlight. The natural wines really caught my eye too. They were generally really on point with the packaging as well as the liquid.

“california is exciting, dynamic and varied.” matt wicksteed streatham wine house Great new importers have joined the more established players, giving the trade a varied arsenal of Californian styles and, to a lesser extent, price points to play with. More and more wines seem to be hitting the sweet spot: freshness and elegance without being too lean, and riper, more full-on wines that are still balanced. Those into red Burgundy can appreciate the more elegant Pinot Noir coming out of California. Younger consumers respond really well to quality Zinfandel or Zin blends with those soft tannins, blueberry and pie-crust characters. CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2019 THE WINE MERCHANT |

Qupé Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate 2013

Robert Sinskey Abraxas 2014 Los Carneros Pol Roger Portfolio, £34

Santa Maria Valley Fields, Morris & Verdin, £40

“Very interesting nose … feels like a ZindHumbrecht wine, all about mouthfeel and texture”, said the judges. “Hugely vibrant wine with broad spectrum of aromas from the tropical to more mineral notes. The palate has stone fruit, fresh pineapple and spice – long, textured and gorgeous!” A blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer, fermented in stainless steel. A wine that the estate describes as “a reaction against homogeneity and a salute to distinctiveness”.

“Delightful, fresh and vibrant with a light, candied orange blossom palate; there’s a textured element and good balance and length” noted one judge. Another said: “Very fine wine, so persistent, balanced … fantastic.” The vineyard was planted in 2007 using the Tablas Creek clone which came originally from Château de Beaucastel. The wine is fermented in barrel and is aged on the lees for 12 months.

Skinner Smithereens White 2017 El Dorado The Wine Treasury, £28.50

“Very impressive! White peach, lemon pith aromas,” said the judges. “The palate is medium-bodied with clean and refreshing fruits”; “aromatic, generous with a lifted finish”. A blend of 37% Grenache Blanc, 29% Viognier, 26% Roussanne and 8% Marsanne, fermented in native yeasts in both stainless steel and neutral French oak. There’s a single barrel of skin-contact Grenache Blanc to add texture and structure. Blending takes place after nine months in barrel.

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David Bruce Russian River Pinot Noir 2015 Sonoma County Richmond Wine Agencies, £46.95

David Bruce Winery was one of the 12 Californian wineries to participate in the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The impressive record continues with this Pinot Noir, described by the judges as “rich and concentrated, very sexy sweet red cherry fruit with a bit of damson and plum … well integrated oak” and “a silky attack with a serious spine and length; racy red fruit … very appealing.”

Robert Sinskey Pinot Noir 2014

Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Tablas Blanc 2013

Los Carneros Pol Roger Portfolio, £34.99

“Nice, juicy ripe fruit, including mandarin and nectarine. Great texture and mouthfeel; pastry in the background … I’d like to see more wines like this!” said one judge. The grapes (71% Roussanne, 21% Grenache Blanc and 8% Picpoul Blanc) are grown on the estate’s organic vineyard. All the component wines went through malolactic. Blending takes place in the spring before ageing in foudre for eight months.

“Earthy and savoury nose with red fruit and savoury spice … succulent palate, juicy red berry fruits with some minerality too”, said the judges. “A rich oak seam with good purity of fruit and an attractive sweet, herbal, exotic finish.” Sinskey has 200 acres of organic and biodynamically-certified vineyards in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. 75% of the energy used is generated through solar installations and the brewing of bio-diesel, made from used restaurant oil, to power machinery.

Paso Robles Fields, Morris & Verdin, £40

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“California offers amazing breadth of interest.” chris sherwood bottle apostle The quality keeps improving. Winemakers have often been very responsive to changing styles, toning down extraction, use of new oak, and maintaining a natural sense of balance and acidity, if not achieving lower alcohol. The more established producers are absolutely not resting on their laurels. There is strong commitment to taking export seriously from new and old producers alike, and there’s good awareness of what they are competing with. Above all, there are simply some very, very good wines being produced.

“Californian wine has finally become affordable and is selling well.” theo sloot oxford wine company California wine is all about exploration – there’s always something new on the horizon. I think there are a number of emerging wine regions worth keeping an eye on. Coombsville is an area in the hillsides east of Napa which has a mix of volcanic and riverbed soils and cooling influences from the nearby bay, and is starting to produce complex, fresh-tasting Cabernet. Lovers of great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have begun looking to the area just east of Santa Cruz that is starting to attract attention. CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2019 THE WINE MERCHANT |

Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2013

Anderson Valley Maisons Marques & Domaines, £42 There was a lot of love in the room for this biodynamically-managed domaine, and specifically this Pinot Noir. “It has an autumnal, earthy character and good concentration on the nose,” noted one judge. “The palate is classy and sleek. Lovely, bright fruit. Quite taut; the palate is textured, mineral and with excellent structure.” The winemaking team makes a meticulous selection of specific barrels from several fermentation lots to make this wine.

Peay Vineyards Ama Estate Pinot Noir 2015

Storm Wines Santa Barbara Pinot Noir 2016

“Good cherry fruit on the nose … clean cut and pure,” said one judge. “Quite elegant. Sappy red fruit on the palate with lots of structure. Very well balanced and serious. Really pretty.” Another added: “Delicious wine, fresh, natural – really good.” The approach at Peay Vineyards is best-described as vintage- and terroir-led with the separate blocks vinified individually and regular blind tastings steering the winemaking.

“Very elegant and pretty nose with floral and cherry notes. Strawberries, redcurrants and cherries singing in harmony with effortless balance and grainy tannins,” said one judge. Another added: “Great freshness and balance with those pure red fruits … savoury and food-friendly style – classy.” Only 250 cases are produced of this wine, which has 20% new French oak and 11 months’ ageing on the lees.

Sonoma Coast Justerini & Brooks, £33.41

Santa Barbara County Tiger Vines, £47

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Failla Pinot Noir 2015 Sonoma Coast Flint Wines, £42

“Quite closed on the nose but this wine has fabulous structure with grainy blue and red fruit, with touches of savoury and spice … lush!” said one judge. “Concentrated red fruits; very precise. A masterclass in tannic structure, lingering and mouthcoating,” was another verdict. “Very sleek right across the palate … long, savoury, complex finish.” The fruit is fermented by lots using native yeasts. The wine is aged in barrel for nine months with 15% new oak.

Drew Wines The Fog-Eater Pinot Noir 2014 Anderson Valley Flint Wines, £45.10

Fruit is sourced from sites across the Balo and Filigreen vineyards, both located on river benches. Both have rocky alluvial soils. “Grainy, fleshy, blue fruited and with a little black pepper, the palate has good weight with savoury red fruits,” the judges said. “Focused and linear, red crunchy fruit … bright and energetic.”

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Hahn Pinot Noir 2016

Three Thieves Pinot Noir 2015

Monterey County Castelnau Wine Agencies, £15.99

California Lanchester Wines, £11.99

It was hard not to be impressed by the value for money that this wine represents. “Fresh, fruity and well-balanced,” the judges said. “Strawberry jam on the palate … unashamedly commercial but yummy and would make the punters happy. The fruit is ripe and the oak evident.” Fruit comes from the cool-climate Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County. Vines are planted on the gravelly, alluvial plain at the foot of the Santa Lucia mountains. The wine is aged in French oak, 40% of which is new.

“At the value end this shows well; ripe cherry fruits in a ripe, consumer-friendly style,” one judge said. “There is also a warm earth character. Good balance across the palate; pure spicy red fruit. Digestible and a good quaffer … very good value.” Another added: “Supple and fresh, characterful fruit; tastes rather grown up.” There is 18% Syrah and 2% Petite Sirah in this Pinot Noir that has been infused with French and American oak.

Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir 2016

California Castelnau Wine Agencies, £12.99 Winemaker Adam LaZarre started Cycles Gladiator in 2005 with the aim of producing “really great wines that taste two to three times the price”. The wine is aged in French and American oak for 14 months. “Oak is evident on this ripe, pretty sweet Pinot Noir that has the variety’s distinctive red summer berry fruit,” one judge observed. “Well-priced for California … fresh, supple, textured and bright.”

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Schug Winery Pinot Noir 2016 Sonoma Coast The Wine Treasury, £29.95

Fruit is selected from the cool-climate vineyards of Carneros and Petaluma Gap, where the slow ripening yields bright, elegant wines. “This has a gorgeous nose!” judges said. “The red cherry and raspberry fruits have a mineral, herbal lift with baking spice too. The palate is fresh and fragrant, long and textured – ripe with spice and black pepper notes.” The wine is aged in large neutral oak casks and older French oak barrels to keep new oak flavours to a minimum.

Buena Vista North Coast Pinot Noir 2016

Migration Wines Pinot Noir 2016

Pinot Noir fruit is sourced from vineyards in Sonoma and Lake Counties, including the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Valley and Carneros. The wine is aged for 11 months in a combination of French, Hungarian and American oak barrels. “A good choice for those that like big, rich Pinot Noir … raspberry coulis and a balancing earthiness”, said one judge. “Pretty full in style with savoury, kirsch fruit … it’s got power and concentration but with some restraint.”

“A very poised Pinot Noir despite its lushness,” the judges said. “The red fruit has a liquorice coat with clove spice and fragrant, floral, savoury notes giving the wine vibrancy to the end of the long finish.” One judge added: “Lovely tension and focus on the palate with wild strawberries and crushed red fruits … silky tannins.” Matured in 100% French oak barrels, 40% of which were new.

North Coast Berkmann Wine Cellars, £21.99

Sonoma Coast The Wine Treasury, £37.50

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“i find THE variety of styles produced in california really impressive.” JOHN WILLIS uncorked, LONDON It’s exciting to see Californian producers experimenting with different grape varieties such as Albariño. Santa Barbara and Sonoma are areas that are starting to make really elegant styles of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that I just love. A huge variety of people who buy Californian wine from us – there doesn’t seem to be a particular type – seem to really appreciate the more fruit-forward styles.

“california wines deliver plenty of flavour.” henry butler butlers wine cellar, brighton We know when we send somebody home with a bottle of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir from California they aren’t going to be disappointed. They sell well because the team are enthused by them and recommend them. We find once people taste the wines, sales increase. The costs are often spoken about … ‘why are the retail prices high?’ But we think selected wines still offer value compared to some European wines of a comparable quality level. Lots of the wines we sell are made sustainably, and green in various ways, which is a story our punters like.

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Orin Swift Slander 2016

The Ojai Vineyard Syrah 2016

“Smoky, dense, compact, earthy and an impressive nose … this is a powerhouse of a wine and pretty chewy but a good example of the style,” the judges said. One added: “Powerful, dark and spicy … big fruit, oak evident … maybe a little OTT, but I like it!” Fruit comes from Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and Santa Rita Hills. The wine is aged for 10 months in French oak, 30% of which is new.

Judges described this as “a lovely example of New World Syrah”, enjoying its “very expressive, black olive tapenade and grilled meat along with stewed black fruit and ground coffee – very expressive and reminiscent of a riper style St Joseph.” They added: “Such elegant fruit and tannin, great balance across the palate … perfectly ripe black fruit with some black pepper and spice. Absolutely cracking!” The wine is vinified and aged in New French oak.

California E & J Gallo Winery, £40

Santa Barbara County Tiger Vines, £40

MacMurray Estate Vineyards Pinot Noir 2015 Russian River Valley E & J Gallo Winery, £30

“Pretty red fruit with a light savoury lift,” the judges said. “Good acidity, detailed crunchy red fruit with well-balanced sweetness. Very well made.” Another added: “Herbal, with wild red hedgerow fruits … very smooth.” The wine is aged for eight months in French and American oak barrels, 20% of which are new.

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Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Napa Valley Daniel Lambert wines, £45.99

“I love this … such good flavour, ripe and bold, supple too,” a judge enthused. “Outrageous colour! Lots of dense black fruit; concentrated, inky and gravelly.” Another added: “Distinctive varietal fruit; very smooth and generous.” The Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon vines are planted in gravelly soils in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. The wine is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with small lots of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Aged for 18 months in oak, 54% of which is new.

Ironstone Merlot 2017

Poppy Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Judges said the wine “delivers a really good mouthful of wine at the price; it has good weight and friendly, smoke-coated black plum and black cherry fruits.” One added: “Fragrant, fresh with soft, juicy fruit … at a competitive price”. 85% Merlot is topped up with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for added structure. Two months ageing in New French oak gives the wine a splash of spice and smoothness.

“Impressive at this price; good fruit density and very decent length,” a judge said. “It’s a little rustic around the edges but very good value and has ripe, expressive fruit. This has good varietal character, good balance and is amongst the best value in the line-up.” The grapes come from the B&E vineyard, a small family-owned grape growing company. The wine is aged for 18 months in small French oak barrels.

Lodi Bibendum, £14.50

Paso Robles The Wine Treasury, £16.99

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Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

the Ojai Vineyard John Sebastiano Grenache 2016

This wine really impressed. The fruit is sourced from a range of terroirs across the Napa Valley, each lending something distinctive to the wine. A rigorous barrel programme matches each lot to the type of oak best suited to embrace it. After 16 months of ageing, the lots are tasted blind and the selection for blending is made. “Ripe fruit, brambly and plummy with oak very present … it’s a fun wine!”, the judges said.

Located on the north eastern edge of the Santa Rita Hills, the vines get the full blast of the strong winds that come in from the ocean. Traditional open-top fermentation is followed by 15 months in barrel. “Elegant with very refined spice to the bright, perfumed cherry and redcurrant fruit, dried thyme and star anise,” the judges said. “Beautiful and graceful.”

Napa Valley Bancroft Wines, £34.50

Santa Ynez Valley Tiger Vines, £42

Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 North Coast Roberson Wine, £20

“Deep nose, chewy, dark-fruited and lovely … great for the price,” the judges said. “Ripe, spicy with a great mouthfeel; the fruit is blackcurrant and blueberry with a splash of menthol and fresh herbs too.” Slingshot is a family effort, shepherded by James Stewart, one of Napa Valley’s next-generation winemakers. The philosophy is to deliver great Napa Valley wine at a reasonable price.

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Heitz Cellar Ink Grade Vineyard 2013

Ironstone Petite Sirah 2016

“This is old-school Zinfandel with style; the nose is jammy with sweet cherry and a touch of charcoal,” the judges said. “Silky tannins with blackcurrant fruit and charred spice,” they added. “Bold, rich and ripe … great value for money”. The Ink Grade Vineyard has a north easterly exposure, meaning the vines get plentiful sunshine but cooler average temperatures than the valley floor below. Aged for two years in French oak.

“At the price there’s a lot to like here; grippy blue fruits, boldness and spice,” the judges said. “It’s refreshingly different and despite the weight and ripeness of fruit, it’s fresh at the finish.’’ The panel enjoyed the “cigar nose and a powerful attack” and noted “plenty of vanilla from the oak”. The wine is aged in New French barrels for two months.

Napa Valley Justerini & Brooks, £20.50

Lodi Bibendum, £14.50

Château Montelena Zinfandel 2014 California Bancroft Wines, £35.50

In honour of Jim Barret, the estate procures bona fide Irish oak barrels, just for this wine. It’s distinctive, rustic and adds a lot of character. The wine is aged in oak (Irish, French and American) for 16 months, and 20% of the barrels are new. “Chewy, with plum skins and compost … there’s a lot going on here,” the judges added. “It has classic cranberry notes and lots of sweet baking spice. Pretty robust but it has a lot of charm and appeal.”

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Secret Indulgence American Vintage 2015 California Berkmann Wine Cellars, £39.99

The blend is 65% Zinfandel and 35% Petite Sirah. Secret Indulgence is described as “a borderless portfolio of wines … a unique collaboration between Jean-Charles Boisset and 12 winemakers from his family estates in France and California”. Our judges’ verdict: “Elegant, complex and warming … a cool wine. Blackcurrant and cassis fruit … could easily drink more than a glass!”

Skinner Vineyard Smithereens Red 2016 El Dorado The Wine Treasury, £28.50

The judges remarked on “bags of light-footed red fruit and dark chocolate along with wood spice on the nose”, adding: “The palate is both elegant and concentrated and fresh on the finish.” The wine is 51% Grenache, 31% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah, 5% Counoise and 1% Petite Sirah. It’s aged for 21 months in 95% seasoned French oak and 5% new French oak.

38 | THE WINE MERCHANT CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2019

Orin Swift Abstract 2016 California E & J Gallo Winery, £30

Winemaker Dave Phinney declares “this might be my favourite wine we’ve made” of the 2016 Abstract. It certainly impressed the judges too. “Smoky, deep nose with ripe, spicy fruit,” they said. “Blackcurrant notes, a touch herbal and there’s some mocha too.” A blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah, the wine is aged for 10 months in a combination of new (35%) and seasoned French oak.

The standard for American fine wine.

For more information, please contact Brian Bostwick, Export Sales Manager, Duckhorn Wine Company BBostwick@Duckhorn.com

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