The Wine Merchant issue 139

THE WINE MERCHANT.

An independent magazine for independent retailers Issue 139, September 2024

WSTA slashes membership fees in bid to recruit indies

Trade body says it needs more small merchants to help it campaign effectively and will now charge them £250 a year

The Wine & Spirit Trade Association has more than halved its membership fees for independents in a bid to drastically increase the number of smaller merchants that it represents.

The trade body has long been caught in a Catch-22 situation, arguing that it can only provide an effective service for indies if they join its ranks, but with indies maintaining that the current fees are

unrealistically high. Only a handful have so far taken the plunge.

For businesses with a turnover below £2.5m, the WSTA will soon be launching independent membership at a cost of £250 per year. Previously, the rate has been between £500 and £1,000 per year.

The WSTA describes the new tier of membership as an “affordable, accessible and practical proposition for independent

businesses”. It adds: “The proposition is specifically designed for smaller merchants and wholesalers looking for information and guidance that is relevant and actionable.

“The new membership will see the launch of an online Indie Hub that will contain videos and podcasts.”

Subject matter will include issues such as Extended Producer Registration

Dog of the month: Ted The Stores, Frome

Street artist Lula Goce created the striking frontage of the Damn Yankee wine shop in London. Story on page 8

Inside this month

4 comings & GOINGS

Plenty of new shops to report in England, Wales and Scotland

12 david perry

The reasons why you’re not allowed in his lovely garden

23 the burning question

What’s the best, and worst, business advice you’ve received?

24 duncan mcclean

Why are indie sales incentives so predictable and unoriginal?

28 merchant profile

Bonafide Wines in Christchurch receives a knock on the door

38 spot the difference

Our annual competition is back, with some great WBC prizes

40 our biggest and best

Indies pick their favourite, and top selling, wines from their ranges

53 the acid test

Is that freshness you’re tasting really just down to mountain air?

79 Q&A: chris wilSon

The Gutter&Stars winemaker with some words of wisdom

WSTA wants more indies

for packaging disposal, labelling requirements for imported wines and new legislation surrounding age verification.

The WSTA also promises advice on issues such as growing online sales, using a bonded warehouse and how to import wine.

Members will receive a condensed market report to help identify consumer trends; practical tools, such as an online duty calculator; a fortnightly newsletter; a quarterly surgery session to allow members to ask questions to a panel of WSTA experts; and an invitation to an annual networking evening.

“For the WSTA to campaign effectively on the issues that have the greatest impact on your business, such as duty easement, it needs engagement from the vibrant and vocal world of independent retail and wholesale,” the WSTA says.

“Your voice, within the communities that you serve and with the MPs and councillors that you have access to, is imperative to the future health of the wine and spirits industry.

“Since the UK’s departure from Europe, the scale and frequency of policy changes impacting alcohol have been unprecedented. With a unified voice, we can effectively ensure that these policies are being devised with the future health of our industry in mind.”

The WSTA has described the October 30 Budget as “the final opportunity for an announcement on the temporary easement for wine duty” that is due to end next February.

It’s calling on independents to put pressure on MPs to extend the existing arrangements, avoiding a multi-tiered duty system which is considered costly and almost unworkable by most in the wine trade.

The WSTA is promising resources on its website to assist with these efforts in the coming weeks.

Membership benefits include advice on wine importing

Editor and Publisher: Graham Holter graham@winemerchantmag.com

Assistant Editor: Claire Harries claire@winemerchantmag.com

Advertising: Sarah Hunnisett sarah@winemerchantmag.com

Accounts: Naomi Young naomi@winemerchantmag.com

Admin and reader liaison: Charlotte Gingell charlotte@winemerchantmag.com

A Reuilly hard decision

English wine is Woodstock star Bacchus

Do you like Loire wines? Of course you do. Do you like shoes? We guess so. But when push comes to shove, which do you prefer?

This was a question that Aljoscha Wright of the Oxford Wine Company had to ask himself after a recent trip to the Centre Loire, when he was packing his bag and trying to squeeze in as many samples of Sancerre, Quincy and Reuilly as possible to share with the team back at the ranch. But not everything could fit, and neither could all his personal belongings – which is why the hotel ended up making a worried call to the organisers, having found an apparently forgotten pair of sneakers in Al’s vacated bedroom.

Al is sanguine about his decision. “The shoes were just a pair of trainers which were nearing the end of their life anyway, so the choice was easy,” he says.

The magic pension pot

Readers of a certain age who once worked for the Peter Dominic chain might like to double check their pension entitlement. A correspondent tells us he worked for the group in the 80s and left just before the Threshers takeover. “At the time PD was owned by IDV and in turn Grand Met,” he says. “I had assumed my pension had gone to Threshers/Whitbread and then disappeared with First Quench.

“As the Grand Met big brands went to Diageo, I made a phone call to Diageo pensions and gave them my name and NI number. They told me I had a pension which was worth about £1,600 when I froze it. I asked how much it was worth now, expecting it to be about £2,000. It was 100 times more. They paid me a healthy, tax-free lump sum and about £400 a month ever since.”

He adds: “I’ve spoken to a few people who mentioned that they once worked for Peter Dominic. None has even thought about their possible pension. I imagine there are a few others out there.”

The Tipsy Palace opened in Woodstock, Oxfordshire, last month, with a focus on English and sustainable wine.

Sustainability can be hard to pin down as a concept for consumers, but at The Tipsy Palace the message is easy to understand.

Owner Jonathan Cooper-Bagnall says: “I put a little note up in the shop this morning, to help explain.

“Just to give you an idea with the wine on tap: there are 30 bottles per keg and if we sell one of those a day, which is pretty realistic around here, so 30 bottles a day – in a year that is 12,000 kilos of carbon saved by people using reusable bottles. What does 12,000 kilos of carbon mean? That’s the equivalent of driving 30,000 miles in a petrol car or heating your home for four years.”

The French, Italian and Spanish wines on tap are courtesy of Sustainable Wine Solutions. “We’ve sampled some wines from Uncharted as well, and we may well use them over time,” says CooperBagnall, “but we really like the proposition from Sustainable Wine Solutions because they have the reusable kegs and they’ve got the bottle return programme.”

“It’s been a brilliant experience to work with the English producers. They are so passionate and enthusiastic about their product. We’ve got Oasthouse from Warehorne Vineyard and Peter [Constable] delivered the wine himself. We’re also working with Freedom of the Press, who are just 10 miles away. Gavin Carter makes a fantastic Pinot Noir.”

Cooper-Bagnall has a range of 60 English wines and is currently working with 12 producers, but expects to take on more. “We’ve got the usual suspects – Nyetimber, Gusbourne and Chapel Down,” he says, “but then we’ve got Sandridge Barton, Hundred Hills and Bewl Water. I buy everything direct except for Nyetimber and Rathfinny, which I get via Liberty. They’ve been very helpful and even though I’m a small indie they’ve done sensible things around order volumes and stuff.

Although Cooper-Bagnall’s most recent experience is in the technology industry, he used to run hotels, working for Queens Moat Houses and De Vere in the 80s and 90s. So is that where this venture has sprung from?

“I live in the centre of Woodstock and there isn’t a good wine shop here, so I thought it was time to open one,” he says.

“I’m also part of a really vibrant trade group in the town and we all get together on a quarterly basis and talk about what brings people into the town and what they want.

“To be perfectly honest, I just thought about what I would want if I was in a lovely little market town and wanted to go for a glass of wine somewhere.”

The shop specialises in wines on tap

Welsh indie ‘taken aback’ by welcome

After working in wine for 25 years (his CV includes Tanners, Myliko and most recently Boutinot), Matthew Jones was in search of a change of pace but ended up opening a wine shop instead.

He launched Wnco Mwnco (a Welsh term meaning “him over there”) in Cardigan at the end of June and says business is good.

“If you told me this time last year that I would own a wine shop in Cardigan, I would never have believed you, because there’s just no way I would have done that,” says Jones.

“I moved to live near the sea and expected to do something completely different with my life, but a week of supermarket wine convinced me that I could do a lot better. It was a way for me to be able to have nice wine myself, so I’ve got selfish reasons for doing this, but it seems like there’s plenty of like-minded people here.

“There are a lot of tourists in Cardigan but my biggest sales have been with locals – and that’s brilliant because they are going to be here in January. I’ve been quite taken aback with the positive start I’ve had.

“Knowing the products back to front has really helped me and it’s taken the risk factor out of things. I wanted to have as wide a range as possible.”

Fellow merchant Deiniol ap Dafydd at Blas ar Fwyd in Llanrwst has helped out by supplying Wnco Mwnco’s Welsh wines. “I know Deiniol pretty well and he’s always been a straight-up guy. He’s got around 50 Welsh wines and he knows them all like the back of his hand. Going through him means I can cherry-pick and not feel pressured into taking wine from a certain producer.”

Jones is confident that the town is on the up. “There are lots of independent shops on the high street and things were sparked by the recent renovation of the castle and the opening of a new theatre,” he says. “It’s all heading in the right direction.”

New Aberdeen indie thinks big

Aberdeen will soon be home to a new independent wine shop. Artur Ghazaryan is launching Wine Gogh, which he intends to open in November in time to catch the Christmas trade.

An Armenian native, Ghazaryan was

living and working in Ukraine but has sought refuge in Scotland. “I’ve worked in alcohol all my life,” he says, “and before leaving Ukraine I was general director of an alcohol company. We had a chain of shops in Ukraine but nowadays it is impossible to have a business there. We also have a six-year-old daughter and she needs to go to school in a safe place.

“Because of my previous role I have lots of contacts in Scotland in terms of whisky companies. Initially I applied for jobs within the trade, but in the end we decided to open our own business.”

Ghazaryan has his eyes firmly set on the luxury end of the market with an interest in “sake, whiskies and wines from all over the world”, and cigars will also feature. “I’m not a smoker,” he says, “but cigars are a lifestyle item and they pair very well with Calvados and whisky.”

Renovation is yet to start on the Aberdeen shop but Ghazaryan has longterm plans to open further shops in Glasgow and Edinburgh.

• Amathus continues its steady growth with the August opening of a 1,750 sq ft retail warehouse in East Sheen, south west London, bringing its estate to 14 shops.

Matthew Jones: “A week of supermarket wine convinced me that I could do a lot better”

Lewisham indie agrees lease deal

Wine & Such has had a few false starts since launching in 2021. But now owner Steph DiCamillo has reopened her shop in Lewisham, south east London, and doesn’t have plans to move until her lease comes to an end in four years.

Wine & Such began life as a pop-up in a shared retail space but after a successful Christmas trading period, the building went up for sale. A second premises was swiftly found and although DiCamillo says it was a “great little shop”, the location wasn’t perfect.

“It kept us going for that summer, and in the meantime we began negotiations on the shop at Burnt Ash Hill,” she explains. After moving to that third location in August 2022, DiCamillo had some teething problems with the landlord, which prompted her to shut up shop and plan yet another move. Happily, all has been resolved, enabling DiCamillo to reopen at Burnt Ash Hill last month.

“The silver lining is that we have done a bit of a rebrand after moving back in. We’ve redecorated it in our new colours,” says DiCamillo.

“My husband [Freddy] and I built the entire shop interior ourselves, from welding our shelves to building our countertops.

“I don’t say that we’re a natural wine shop because they are not all natural and I think that term can scare a lot of people off if they’ve had a bad experience with natural wine.”

Alongside her wine range, which is sourced from suppliers including Les Caves de Pyrene, Boutinot, Moreno, and Wines Under the Bonnet, there is wine on tap, courtesy of Unchartered. The refill service is very popular and in addition to red, white and rosé, DiCamillo also offers a vermouth and a Negroni.

“We do those all year round. I do a

seasonal Negroni, changing it up as we go through the year, and a lovely red house vermouth. People love that they can come and get 250ml rather than a whole 750ml bottle, so it stays fresh.

“I started a mail order cocktail company during lockdown [Cocktails by Mail], sending out ready-made cocktails in compostable pouches,” says DiCamillo.

“I did that until Christmas last year and we’ve shut it for now because the market has fallen out for that kind of thing, and my time is better focused on the shop. So at least with the Negroni on tap I kind of get to dabble in cocktails a little bit.”

Noble Wines will focus on Kent

Noble Wines has closed its branch in Uckfield, East Sussex, but continues to

trade in Tunbridge Wells.

Owner Charles Mears-Lamb says the decision to consolidate was prompted by the arrival of a major supermarket in the town.

“It was brilliant until Waitrose opened,” he says. “The day they opened we were 70% down and it never came back except during Covid, and as soon as that was over, so was our trade.

“Over the Christmas period we did a promotion on Veuve Clicquot at £40 a bottle, which was £15 a bottle cheaper than Waitrose. We sold four bottles and, according to my source, they sold around 200.”

The business relocated in 2017 from its original premises in a more central part of Uckfield to a bigger unit further up the High Street, where parking was less problematic and rent cheaper, according to Mears-Lamb.

Steph DiCamillo hopes for a more stable period for Wine & Such

‘Absolute idiot’ defies

doubters

St Vincent restaurant and wine shop opened in Shrewsbury in July.

Five months sounds an ambitious turnaround from concept to launch, and owner Alexis Hill says that it has been a bit of a whirlwind.

“This is going to sound crazy,” he says, “but I woke up one morning at the beginning of March and said to my partner, ‘I’m going to open a wine bar’ and her response was ‘you’re an absolute idiot, what are you talking about?’”

Undeterred, Hill started to look for premises but taking on something restaurant-sized was not what he initially had in mind.

“I was looking for something probably

about a quarter of the size of what I’ve ended up with,” he says. “In Shrewsbury, the retail units weren’t especially cheap, and then by the time you put in for a change of use application and that's all gone through planning, I’d probably still be sitting here waiting for the red tape to be done.

“And then I saw this property which I was familiar with as I’d been here as a customer. I completely wrote it off at first because it’s massive and I thought I wanted something small and intimate.”

It got Hill thinking about other possibilities, so he quickly recognised its potential for his revised business plan and went for it. “I realised it could be more than just a wine bar, it can be retail and it’s got a fabulous upstairs, which will be a space to hold tastings and private events.”

With the help of his partner and her

dad, Hill got the premises fitted out in five weeks. “I had a very clear vision of what I wanted and how I wanted it to look, so that was easy to get done. I say easy – it was a hell of a lot of work. It was a miraculous turnaround but I had this opening date in my head and we worked our socks off.”

Inspiration for the name was sparked by Hill’s visit in January to the St Vincent annual wine festival in Burgundy.

“We tried so many things and I think that made me realise that I wanted to focus on the wine side of things,” he says.

Hill’s hospitality background and his personal love of wine has driven this venture. “I’m not a sommelier,” he says, “but I’ve always taken a lead on wine lists in the places I’ve worked and I’ve got a pretty good grounding.”

All 250 retail lines at St Vincent are available to drink in for a corkage fee.

Damn Yankee is at home in London

Drury Lane in London has welcomed Damn Yankee, a wine bar and shop owned and run by Jen Avina.

Avina had a decade of wine and hospitality experience in her native Los Angeles before moving to London with her husband five years ago. With the ambition of eventually running her own business, Avina spent time working at Bottle Apostle, Philglas & Swiggot and Drop before officially taking on her new premises, which was previously a branch of Drop, in March.

“When I left LA, that was the goal,” she says. “I knew I wanted a retail and wine bar space. I had the experience and I was ready to do it. It was just about timing and finding the right location, but finally the stars aligned and I was able to take the space over from the Drop guys. It was a quick turnaround, and I officially opened on May 19.”

Before reopening as Damn Yankee, Avina ensured her premises had maximum visual impact by securing the services of street artist Lula Goce.

“Lula is a really impressive artist,” says Avina. “Her work is all over the world, in New York, Miami, California, Berlin and all over Spain, but this is her first piece in London.

“We were pretty chuffed to get her. The feedback has been very positive: we’ve had so many compliments from the locals about how we have done something for the street and elevated the neighbourhood. It’s been quite humbling to be so well received.”

The wine range will focus on minority and female producers where possible and, while there will be wines from all over the world, there is likely to be a bias towards American wine.

“We’re hoping by next year to be able

to start doing some direct importing ourselves and I’m excited by that possibility,” says Avina. “I grew up in Los Angeles and I spent a lot of time in Santa Barbara and that’s where I fell in love with wine. To be able to bring some of my home here would be very special to me.

“The UK is such a great consumer of wine, especially the younger audience who are so much more open to what is out there. People want to try stuff from all over the world and they’re very adventurous. It’s almost like travelling around the world; you can drink the wine and pair it with the right food to have that experience. I find

that all very romantic.”

Not just a pretty shop front, Damn Yankee has already embedded itself further into the neighbourhood by supporting local charities.

“It’s really important for us to create a space that is very inclusive to everyone,” says Avina. “Even though we’re quite new, we did a Pride event with Mosaic Trust and over Christmas we’ll be donating care packages to [homelessness charity] St Mungo’s, which is just around the corner from us. We want to make sure that we’re giving back and being a positive part of the community.”

Jen Avina grew up in Los Angeles and moved to London five years ago

Handford Wines joins Waud group

Handford Wines in South Kensington has been purchased in a deal that makes the Old Brompton Road shop the first retail premises for Waud Wines, which also acquired the dispensing brands WineEmotion and WineWalls earlier this year.

The shop, established almost 35 years ago, will continue to be run by its founder, James Handford MW.

Charles Waud of Waud Wines says: “Before buying Handford Wines we had also looked at maybe making our own wine and having our own wine shop somewhere in Surrey – a fancy farm shop, a destination shop – but we never really found anywhere that had the footfall we wanted.

Waud believes Handford is a logical addition to the company. “About 40% of the Handford business is a shop, and then the other 60% is online sales and broking, and that was also an important part of what I wanted for the business,” he says.

September will see a refurbishment of the shop, with the addition of an eightbottle WineEmotion as well as some examples of the WineWalls racking, but James Handford will remain as managing director and there won’t be a rebrand.

“James has been on the Old Brompton Road for over 15 years, so I feel slightly reckless to go in and change things,” says Waud, who adds that more expansion is likely.

“We’ve done our kind of slightly off-thewall purchase with the dispenser business. I think we’ll continue to go with the more traditional, independent wine company route for future expansion,” he says.

“We have been growing as a business, but not as quick as I’d like, and we feel that acquisition is the way to grow more quickly. I feel the market is difficult at the moment and there seems to be lots of

businesses really struggling to trade in the current climate. I suspect we might look at opportunities of picking up distressed businesses that have potential.”

Waud Wines was established in 2011, originally focused on online sales. It gave up its offices in Southwark during Covid, but found it was missing its physical premises.

“We went completely virtual, with everyone working from home,” says Waud. “We always thought having a base in London was important, and if we had a shop that would be great as well.”

City wine business aims for intimacy

Baby Bacchus, a bar and shop, has opened on Birchin Lane in the heart of the City of London.

Owners Oscar Baker and Nat Pinney met while working at Planet of the Grapes, and as alumni of one of the City’s most wellknown merchants they know how best to cater for their customers.

“We have definitely stuck with keeping our range pretty classic for the City clientele,” says Baker, “but we’ve thrown

in a smattering of bits and pieces that we like drinking as well as some more lowintervention stuff.

“We’ve also tried to find wines that maybe people haven’t drunk a lot of, or wouldn’t necessarily be as familiar with, but that are very, very good alternatives to things that people love.

“So rather than lots of very expensive white Burgundy, we’ve gone for premium, cool-climate Californian Chardonnay as an alternative.”

Baker’s search for a suitable premises started last September, and Baby Bacchus opened at the end of March this year, with Pinney coming on board to run tastings and focus on corporate sales.

The intention is to be a neighbourhood wine bar and with room for 25 people seated inside and a couple of outside tables, that’s definitely the vibe.

“We’re conscious that a lot of hospitality venues in the City can be quite large,” says Baker. “We wanted something a bit more intimate, a little bit cosy and personal, and that’s where the idea of having a turntable came from. People can bring in their vinyl and listen to what they like.”

At present Baker says the business is split 20% retail and 80% on trade. He says: “I don’t know whether that will change going into Christmas, whether corporate gifting and presents and things like that will swing it.

“It’s a bit of a puzzle to work out when we’re going to get the peaks and troughs and how that’s going to be reflected in the on and off-trade. It’s definitely different to how it was five years ago, but I think the City is as busy as it was, if not busier on Wednesdays and Thursdays. We’re finding that Mondays are very, very quiet. I think even the strictest offices are saying [they want people to be in] four days a week and Monday is the day that’s getting lost.”

Baker hopes the newly-launched website will attract clients who want to build their wine collection at home, giving them the option to come into the shop to discuss their specific requirements.

Oscar Baker, left, with Nat Pinney

DAVID PERRY

Irregular Thoughts

Wrecked bench, trampled hydrangea: why my lovely garden is out of bounds

This is becoming a mini-series on why I don’t do all the extras that other places do. It may be because I’m of pensionable age and getting tired, or it may be that I don’t have to. Our occupancy costs are really low so just running a retail business lets us tick over quite nicely. I admire the thrusting young things who add wholesale, ecommerce and on-trade to their retail offer, but it is just not for me. It may be that I just don’t want to.

We have a space behind the shop which was a small courtyard, but is now a lot bigger. It makes me very happy. Anyone who gets the guided tour tells me I should open it up for people to sit in and drink my wines. I tell them I don’t want to, but they could sub-let it if they wanted to. They don’t want to but insist that I really should.

I then have to explain that it would mean upgrading the outside “dunny” to include hot water, having somewhere to wash up glasses, change the licence, provide safe access rather than the crumbling steps accessed from behind the counter … the list goes on. I just want people to come in, spend money, maybe have a chat and then, importantly, go away again. I don’t want them to come and sit in my garden for an hour or so nursing a glass of wine. Would you let me come and have a drink in your garden?

Who is going to run around after them and ensure they don’t wreck the place?

Not me, I’m busy in the shop. I like to think I’m quite good at retail. I’m rubbish at waitressing, though.

We have a fantastic Fringe event in town

every summer. It is now the third biggest in England after Manchester and Brighton. Not bad for a tiny town in north Dorset. We were heavily involved in the early years. Our tiny courtyard was jet-washed and planted with colourful perennials. We had outside electric points and lights installed. We erected a big gazebo and collected every outdoor chair we could find. We even utilised an antique French bench I had bought for its looks rather than its practicality. We blocked off the storage area and till and funnelled people out the back door and down the dangerous stone steps. We had two acts on the Friday night, three on Saturday and a couple on Sunday lunchtime. We provided glasses and corkscrews and encouraged people to buy wine and beer by the bottle as they came through the shop to drink in the courtyard, which is outside of the off-licence boundary. I figured that was no different to them buying it and drinking it at home or in the park. The licensing officer might have taken a different view.

It was good fun but exhausting. The smallest space: the hottest ticket. I estimated that we could safely accommodate about 20 people. At Friday’s first gig I counted 54. It was getting quite scary! Looking down I could see one keen fan standing in my hydrangea. Not on it or near it but in it, up to his waist. Why would you do that?

The French bench was sat upon by someone with an inappropriately large derrière. Needless to say it was wrecked –the bench, not the derrière.

Despite this and having to clear up and wash a lot of glasses, we did it again the following year and the one after that.

We did it because it is a fun weekend and we wanted to support the Fringe. In terms of profitability, it was probably break-even once you take into account two people on duty for extended hours. We sold a few extra bottles of beer and wine and quite a few “splits” of Prosecco. We could have made a lot more money selling a case of claret or Champagne to one customer, and it would only have taken one person about 10 minutes. Except those sorts of customers could not get near us during the Fringe events.

We support the Fringe by sponsorship now. We won’t participate again, not because it’s too much effort but because I don’t want people trampling the garden. Towards the end of the Covid period we took over the derelict piece of ground that had been attached to next door. So now the little courtyard opens up to a very much bigger garden. In that beautiful walled, south-facing space I have grown potatoes, onions, squashes and courgettes, lettuce, carrots, beetroot, tomatoes, beans, peas, a fig tree, gooseberries, blackcurrants, a josta berry and 40 grape vines in a bit of lawn. The grape vines are in their third season and are bearing fruit now.

I still occasionally show people around. They still say, “Oh, wow! You should get some tables and chairs and let people sit here and drink wine.” No, I shouldn’t.

This Fringe, I plan to go and sit in someone else’s garden.

David Perry is the owner of Shaftesbury Wines in Dorset

Burn Valley Vineyard Bacchus 2023

There’s something attractively understated about a good English Bacchus, exemplified by this coastal Norfolk example, made by a winemaker with 10 years of experience in New Zealand. The elderflower and gooseberry notes speak of breezy summer bike rides in search of windmills, grey seals and crab sandwiches.

RRP: £17.99 ABV: 10.5%

Burn Valley Vineyard (07803 925064) burnvalleyvineyard.co.uk

Bizarra Extravaganza Orange 2020

Unless your Uruguayan orange wine section is already full, it’s worth taking a look at this Petit Manseng/Gros Manseng blend, highly commended in the Wine Merchant Top 100. Made by a craft beer producer which diversified into wine, it’s less wacky than it looks, and surprisingly versatile with food.

RRP: £18 ABV: 12.5%

Vinos Latinos (020 8293 4405) vinoslatinos.co.uk

Champagne Laurent-Perrier Héritage Brut NV

Some super-premium Champagnes are, if we’re honest, less exceptional than their price tags suggest but that’s definitely not the case here. A 55%-45% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from 40 crus, it’s a profound combination of fruit, flower, nut and patisserie elements, seamlessly integrated.

RRP: £75 ABV: 12%

Laurent-Perrier UK (01628 498 900) laurent-perrier.co.uk

Elizabeth Spencer Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

The fruit used by the Elizabeth Spencer team – now employees of the Boisset Collection – comes from organic vineyards across Mendocino. There’s some well-judged ageing in American oak, imparting a gentle vanilla sweetness and a spice that works beautifully with the liquorice and chocolate notes.

RRP: £32.79 ABV: 13.5%

Top Selection (0845 410 3255) topselection.co.uk

La Fête de Blanc Blanc de Blancs 2022

La Fête’s mission is to “embody the St Tropez lifestyle and ethos”. It’s a partnership between Donae Burston and the winemakers of Château Saint-Maur in Provence and perhaps best known for its rosé. But this Rolle/Viognier/Colombard blend is well worth checking out for its tropical richness and citrus zip.

RRP: £26.99 ABV: 13%

Top Selection (0845 410 3255)

topselection.co.uk

Klinker Brick Old Ghost Old Vine Zinfandel 2020

This is the kind of red wine that many wine drinkers claim to be moving away from but most – we’d be willing to bet – secretly love. Gloriously unfashionable in almost every way, it’s silky and rich with gently throbbing oaky notes, and chocolate and mint flavours that recall After Eights when they used to be good.

RRP: £19.99 ABV: 15.5%

Daniel Lambert Wines (01656 661010) daniellambert.wine

Roebuck Estates Rosé de Noirs 2018

Roebuck is producing some of the most consistently enjoyable sparkling wine in England and this creamy but zippy rosé, with its faint suggestion of apricot tart and custard as well as green apples, certainly doesn’t disappoint. A 5% component of Pinot Précoce, added as a still red wine, creates a lovely rose-pink hue.

RRP: £42 ABV: 12% Southern England Wines (01798 263123) roebuckestates.co.uk

Weingut Salzl Zweigelt Selection 2021

It may be getting a little late for summer evening wines but this one certainly did the job on a warm August day as the sun was setting. Soft and juicy, with delicate notes of cherries, plums and spice, it’s the kind of wine that helps put the problems of the world into some kind of perspective, if only briefly.

RRP: £16.49 ABV: 13.5% North South Wines (020 3871 9210) northsouthwines.co.uk

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It’s probably the hottest issue in the industry right now, but how can independent merchants make sense of it and play their part in making sustainability an achievable objective?

An exciting new conference and exhibition in October will provide some of the answers.

For any questions, contact the organisers, Judy Kendrick & Janet Harrison, at hello@ sustainabilityindrinks.com

SID Conference

October 14 2024

WSET Bermondsey 3pm-6.30pm

Keynote speakers: Jancis Robinson MW OBE and Judith Batchelar OBE

How do you create value whilst becoming fully sustainable? Balancing the books whilst investing in sustainable practices and products can be extremely challenging.

The SID conference, Creating Value Through Sustainability, is an opportunity for you to hear from an inspiring panel of speakers from Maison Mirabeau, Encirc, Beyond Zero and Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme.

You will also have the chance to network with the best in the business, including keynote speakers Jancis Robinson MW OBE and Judith Batchelar OBE (pictured)

The price of the tickets is £65 and includes great wines and delicious locally sourced light food. Details can be found at sustainabilityindrinks.com

Worth attending to invest in the future sustainability of your business? We think so!

Sustainability in Drinks Exhibition

October 15 2024

St Mary’s, Marylebone 10.30am5.30pm

As an independent retailer you probably have many questions around sustainability in respect of your business. Maybe you have begun your sustainability journey or you don’t even know where to start.

The inaugural Sustainability in Drinks event will bring together advisors, sustainably accredited producers and product providers designed to address most if not all of your needs.

Alongside this much-needed exhibition will be five SID Talks with influential speakers and thought-leaders. These will be extremely useful for the independent retail sector, giving you practical steps you can implement immediately.

The exhibition and SID Talks are free to attend, with preregistration required.

Details can be found at sustainabilityindrinks.com.

Unmissable SID Talks on Tuesday 15th

Getting Started in Sustainability with Anne Jones, Rosie Davenport, Fran Draper and Phil Korbel of the Carbon Literacy Project

The Future Direction of Sustainability with Stephen Cronk, CEO Maison Mirabeau & chair of RVF, climate journalist Nick Breeze, Chris Smith of Beyondly and Jamie Hutchinson, CEO of Cordon Technologies

The Race to Net Zero with International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA), Doug Wanstall of Beyond Zero, Isabel DiVanna of The Carbon Trust and Meagan Littlejohn of Sustainable Winegrowing NZ

The Great Packaging Debate with Peter Stanbury of Sustainable Wine Roundtable, Robin Thompson of Encirc, Laura Catena, MD of Catena Zapata and Marta Mendonça of Porto Protocol

Engaging the Supply Chain in the Sustainability Journey with Barry Dick of Waitrose & Partners, Dom de Ville, director at The Wine Society and Calum Fraser of Discarded Spirits

Book in advance for Tuesday’s SID Talks when you register.

Photo by Colin Hampden-White

Rising Stars

Emma and Will Evans launched Wandering Palate in the autumn of 2021 – a vibrant hybrid brimming with creativity.

Guest DJs, an in-house art gallery and painting classes, yoga sessions, quiz nights and tantalising pantry goods are a few of the additional things on offer. It boasts a team that thrives on hospitality.

“Bo and James have both been promoted recently,” explains Emma, “and so they are both rising stars and a huge part of the Wandering Palate family.

“Bo has been with us since the very beginning and we’ve seen her blossom. She is Mrs Organised and super-tidy. She’s great with the customers and particularly good at recommending wines to people. She takes pride in making sure that people are happy with the wine they’ve bought. She also makes excellent cocktails.”

Bo’s first job was supervising VIP boxes at a stadium. “I think there is a stigma around working in hospitality,” she says, “but I can’t see myself doing anything else. The people I work with at Wandering Palate are amazing. I started working here in the October and James just a couple of months later in December. We all know each other well: we are like a little family, and then there’s the regulars who come in … there is such a sense of community here.”

Growing up with parents who are red wine fans, Bo is gradually developing a taste for it too. “I’ve got into my red wines a bit,” she says. “I like Beaujolais, but I’m loving Riesling at the minute, especially the Sandgrove from Australia, which we have in the shop. I also love Grüner Veltliner and a Chenin Blanc. I’m not into big punchy wines, though I can appreciate them.”

“James is very charismatic and reliable,” says Emma. “He takes everything in his stride. As well as changing our wine list every few months, he has the additional role of ‘The Big Cheese’ so he creates all our cheese and charcuterie boards and selects all the cheese for our take-away deli fridge.”

It’s often observed that drama students are an invaluable addition to the trade and James, an ex-drama student himself, confirms this theory. “The skills are definitely transferable,” he says.

Bo Warburton & James Woods

Wandering Palate, Eccles, Manchester

“Performance can be applied to anything, really, and it comes in handy to have that confidence to talk to a room full of people.”

Having completed his WSET Level 2 at the end of last year, James has found that his tasting trips with Will to source new wines have really helped to build on that knowledge. “I’m always learning stuff and my understanding of wine is growing,” he says. “What’s really nice about the tastings as well is that we come back to the shop and introduce these new wines to our customers. We’re constantly introducing new ideas, even beyond the wine, so I love being here and having that kind of family that you work with, as well as the communities that we’ve built within the shop.”

Bo and James each win a bottle of Klein Constantia Clara Sauvignon Blanc 2021, courtesy of Mentzendorff

If you’d like to nominate a Rising Star, email claire@winemerchantmag.com

CAT BRANDWOOD

The Long Run

No means no. So no unsolicited samples, and no visits without an appointment

What’s your most irritating customer response? This is mine.

Me: “Can I offer any help?”

Customer: “No, I’m just looking for [insert long-involved story that ends with the expectation of me helping despite them already turning down said offer].”

Sometimes, when I’m feeling a little bit silly, I might respond: “Well, I could definitely help with that. Just shout if you’d like my help.”

We are such a “no” nation. I say it all the time. Do you want to buy this service? “No.” Do you want a sample of this wine? “No.” Ha! As if I’ve ever turned down wine. In all seriousness, I actually find the free wine is not worth dealing with the expectation of me buying something I’m not interested in.

I think there is probably only one supplier who succeeds in getting me to try things that I tell him won’t work in my shop and, dammit, I’m annoyed every time that he gets it right. Not that it should be

A customer who doesn’t want help, honestly

a surprise. He knows retail, and he knows me pretty well.

I’m not suggesting that we should live our lives as “yes” people, but perhaps sometimes we could learn to grasp opportunity. After all, my regulars have been saying “yes” to whatever I tell them to drink for years.

Of course, I have heard rumours that not saying no has been a problem for some of you. That trying something and saying “mmmm, that’s tasty” has resulted in wine turning up at your door with an invoice you never agreed to.

This is where the problem lies. Some

salespeople don’t understand consent, which in every area of life should of course be an enthusiastic “yes”, not a worn-down “oh fine, whatever will get you to fuck off quickest”. Or even worse, just not a “no”. I’m lucky that I haven’t experienced the worst of this. I suspect I’m seen as a bit prickly by suppliers (except, I hope, by those that know me well). The harder they push, the more firmly they get stonewalled by me.

An (ex-)supplier had a habit of turning up every couple of months with a list of whatever shit they were trying to clear out. Dirt cheap, two vintages older than decency. He was shocked that I wasn’t ordering this stuff that I had to buy without trying (no doubt because it was well past its drinking window).

One day he had the audacity to ask me, “what is stopping you from placing an order today?” I was polite to his face (mostly from pure shock), before sending him a strong email telling him not to come back.

The “no” interaction that lives rent-free in my head, though, is this one. There was a prospective supplier meeting I had a while back. I say “meeting”, but that term should be reserved for a mutually convenient time for two people to talk business, so I guess this was actually an ambush.

So, this person wanders into the shop to talk to me, without an appointment. The regular customers can tell that the vibe is “Cat’s seething rage of politeness”, which is a facial expression that carries strong fuck-off vibes.

‘Meeting’ is a term that should be reserved for a mutually convenient time to talk business. So this was an ambush

This oblivious supplier, who was holding me hostage in my own business, dares to tell me I am pronouncing Barolo wrong. That it is pronounced “Bar-ohhhhhhlohhhh”. Now, as sales techniques go, this is bold. Because, unless you’re Italian (they are not), you do just look like a prick, especially when you are also wrong. What did I do? I said no. Did they listen? Also no. Did I end up with a box of samples? Yes. Did I receive emails for a few months following this? Also yes. Sigh.

Cat Brandwood is the owner of Toscanaccio in Winchester

A very big month for Portuguese wines

This year’s June is for Indies campaign saw sales of wines from Portugal almost double among the 15 merchants who signed up. Here’s a flavour of how retailers –and their customers – got involved

Wines of Portugal has continued to build on the success of its June is for Indies campaign and says that this year’s event has resulted in an average increase in value sales of Portuguese wines of 91.73% on last year for participating retailers.

A total of 15 independent wine merchants from across the UK were supported by Wines of Portugal to organise their own campaigns throughout June. Customer engagement was won through a combination of exclusive events, digital marketing, promotional activity and education programmes, and the participants were rewarded with sizeable uplifts in sales.

In addition to the digital and physical POS material supplied by Wines

“I think the June is for indies is an excellent campaign, and a costeffective one. It's also one I've really enjoyed being involved with, and it's been great to get to know some of the excellent independent wine merchants out there through the Instagram lives. Getting people to try wines is so much more effective than talking about them, and this campaign gets more people to taste wines that otherwise they wouldn't know about. It's so good to create a buzz around Portugal and its wines, too.”

Jamie Goode Communicator & author

of Portugal, indies were given the opportunity to go live on Instagram with Jamie Goode, which, according to Meghann Thorp at Reserve Wines in Manchester, provided “nice rich content to support the campaign.”

Archie McDiarmid at Luvians in St Andrews adds: “It was great to have Jamie’s feedback on the wines. It drove attention to our Instagram page and website.” Barry Howarth at Lancaster Wines agrees and reports how his promotion was enhanced by linking the live session with Jamie Goode to his weekly emails to customers.

Regionality is an obvious access point for exploring Portuguese wines and those regions are very familiar to British ears as Portugal is such a popular tourist destination. Vinho Verde and the Douro were both cited by the participating merchants as among the most popular DOs in their campaigns, with Alentejo and Dão also gaining a lot of interest from consumers.

In terms of wine styles, John Kernaghan at Liquorice Wine & Deli in Shenfield, Essex, reports that his customers were most attracted to the lighter, fresher whites. “The featured Leme Vinho Verde was a huge hit, especially on the by-theglass list,” he says. “The impression of old-school Vinho Verde and what is being crafted today caught many folk out in a positive way. Stylistically they are aromatic with a dry refreshing palate.”

Portuguese reds were also showcased at Liquorice. Herdade do Rocim was served

lightly chilled and went down very well with the softer Pegões Touriga Nacional, offering a great value option.

“The richer Douro styles are always popular when the weather is a little cooler,” says Kernaghan. “However we did have the unoaked Comboio do Vesúvio red on our drink-in list, which sold well.”

At The Good Wine Shop in south west London, Bastian Fischer says his customers were especially interested by the “previously lesser-explored categories of sparkling and rosé”. And Archie McDiarmid at Luvians found that the “crisp whites and unoaked reds performed particularly well during the tasting sessions and masterclass,” which was run by Mark O’Bryen MW for staff and customers alike.

“Since signing up to June is for Indies in the last couple of years, we’ve built our sales of Portuguese wines year on year,” says Danielle Freer at Amps Wine Merchants in Oundle. “We now have customers coming into our stores asking us for Portuguese wines, and as a result the range we stock has increased dramatically. The sales figures prove the success of the campaign and we’re pleased that customers are now spending more on Portuguese wine too, with the average spend increase of almost £2 per bottle.

“We always welcome the opportunity to participate in Portuguese wine promotions as they help us continue raising awareness around a wine country full of diversity yet to be discovered by many. The campaign is meticulously organised and focuses on creating awareness around a wine

producing country that deserves more recognition amongst consumers. The funding enables us to promote Portugal and open more Portuguese wines for our customers to taste. Once the wines are open, they sell themselves, as customers can taste the quality and diversity.”

Barry Howarth says: “My customers loved the breadth and range of wines from Portugal and many were surprised at the very high quality. The fact that these are mostly native grape varieties was a big revelation. I am convinced I have converted many of my customers to the delights of Portuguese wines and will have many new customers for these wines.”

Bastian Fischer at The Good Wine Shop, who was responsible for running the promotion across all five of the company’s shops, also reports a willingness from his customers to trade up and increase their per-bottle spend.

“We also gained new customers for this category who historically drank primarily wines from Spain, Italy and South America,” he adds. “This type of campaign is always helpful to shift the focus on regions and growers that otherwise may easily be overlooked. It also helps with an educational aspect for the team.”

Meghann Thorp at Reserve Wines believes their sales boost was mainly due to increased sampling across all five of its Manchester stores. “We haven’t done this volume of sampling in a long time,” she says. “We’ve increased sales of the selected SKUs by 20% month-on-month and 149% year-on-year.

“Overall Portuguese wine sales have increased 63.5% month-on-month, which is a huge uplift thank to a heavy focus on sampling across the business. Funding really helped, with pushing sampling and our liquid to lips concept – getting customers on site really excited about the wines.”

As Wines of Portugal looks forward to the 2025 campaign, it’s keen to thank all the people involved, from the Portuguese wine producers and their importers to the independent retailers who are in the unique position to tell the stories behind these beguiling wines.

In a nutshell: Most holiday homes leave a welcome bottle for incoming guests. Capitalise on the influx of visitors by offering local operators a well-priced range of wine along with an accompanying neck collar/label detailing where to find you, and those tourists may well visit your shop in search of more.

Tell us more.

“We already had some holiday cottages that were buying their wines from us as welcome gifts, but we realised that maybe their customers didn’t know where that wine was coming from, so this summer we started offering the labels as part of the package.

“We are in a really touristy area here, but we are slightly out of town, which is another challenge for us. The market is really nice so we know visitors will be shopping there and if they know there’s a wine merchant not much further away and they’ve already tasted a bottle of our wine, they are more likely to come and find us.”

59: Collaborate with local holiday lets

Susie

Keenan

Bray Valley Wines, South Molton, Devon

Some communities object to having lots of holiday lets nearby, saying it’s not good for all-year-round trade.

“It’s all win-win and very positive. Some of the holiday cottages are second homes and the owners are renting them out the rest of the time. I think they enjoy building relationships with local businesses like us and becoming regular clients.”

Has it been successful so far?

“Yes, those businesses would usually have one of our flyers in the property anyway, but these tags are more direct. Since I’ve posted them on Instagram I’ve had several more enquiries. In fact one lady just came by and has requested some for her cottage.

“I think people generally have different shopping habits when they are on holiday and maybe have the time to come and browse in an independent, even if they don’t normally buy wine in that way at home.”

Are the labels you create expensive to have made?

“Not at all. I do them in-house. I’ve literally got a Word document in front of me and I just have to put the customer’s name on and anything else they want on the tag. I print them onto some brown paper and then chop them up. It means we’re really flexible and can get them ready more or less straight away.

“They don’t have to fill in any blanks –it’s all personalised for them and it looks professional, but in a nice, homemade sort of way.”

Do you recommend certain wines to these customers?

“Some of them buy the same wines for their guests that they love and mainly they buy fizz. We have customers that buy crémant and others that buy Prosecco. I guess it depends on the property, as in the price point of their holidays and their demographic.

“If they are providing other items, and the wine is part of a welcome hamper, then they maybe don’t want to spend too much on the wine itself. But whatever they buy from us, they know it’s something a bit unique and it’s a very drinkable bottle that you won’t see in the supermarket.

“Normally they might buy six to12 bottles, or 18 to 24. I haven’t had anyone buying less than six, but if they wanted to, of course they can. Generally they want it to be job done and sorted before they have to think about it again.”

Susie wins a WBC gift box containing some premium drinks and a box of chocolates.

Tell us about a bright idea that’s worked for you and you too could win a prize.

Email claire@winemerchantmag.com

QUIZ TIME

1. The type of stopper known as a “technical cork” consists mainly of cork dust and glue. But what are its two end pieces made of?

2. The Park, Europe’s biggest wine bottling and warehousing facility, is based in which port? (a) Tilbury (b) Southampton (c) Avonmouth

3. The biodynamic calendar is divided into fruit days, root days, flower days and leaf days. Which two are recommended for optimum wine enjoyment?

4. A 225-litre oak barrel is known as what?

5. The wormwood herb (pictured) gives its name to which alcoholic drink?

Answers on page 66

customers we could do without

I’m sure you’ll think me an utter philistine but may I please have an ice cube for my glass of Vouvray? The sun is very hot and my glass has warmed up a lot … I mean it’s not as if I’m asking for lemonade … but even if I were, that would be my prerogative, I’m the customer and I can enjoy my wine exactly as I like … no doubt there are rules and etiquette, but my late husband and I dined at some of the finest hotels in Europe, young lady, so I’m not some innocent abroad … in fact a little ice does no harm at all to a wine so I hope you don’t make a face when you walk off or get someone in the kitchen to do something unspeakable to the cubes … oh, I know exactly what goes on, even in the best restaurants in Paris or Geneva … no doubt your proprietor likes to berate customers like me in front of the other patrons, just for a simple and perfectly legitimate request … of course I shall mention all of this in my Tripadvisor review and I suppose you’ll respond with some grotesque and sarcastic riposte … well, forget about the ice, I shall take my custom elsewhere … the bill, if you please …

61. Oonagh Grandmoff-Tarkin

AGAIN!

Favourite Things

Ruth Grahame SugarBird Wines

Aberdeen

Favourite wine on my list

Currently Ashbourne by Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Pinotage 2020. I absolutely love the complex cherry and savoury characters which result in a stunning wine. This has really changed my perception of Pinotage.

Favourite wine and food match

I’m a sucker for fish and chips and a blanc de blancs, preferably l’Ormarins or Gusbourne.

Favourite wine trip

On a recent trip to the Cape, PJ Geyer of Thamnus Wines entertained us with stories of his wine adventures whilst cooking up a braai of rack of lamb. Sitting under the shade of a huge tree, at the top of the vineyard, we tasted through the past few vintages of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I felt so connected to nature, I never wanted to leave that spot.

Favourite wine trade person

Richard Kelley, the legend of Dreyfus Ashby. It’s always an absolute pleasure to welcome Richard, who takes the time to visit us up in the north east of Scotland and always brings us an interesting selection.

Favourite wine shop

Vinoteca Con Pasión in Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife, which is attached to a great little restaurant. It has a gloriously curated selection of around 600 local and other island wines.

Propeller Wine faces winding up

A winding-up order against Propeller Wine will be heard on August 28, as the former wholesale “disruptor” fails to outrun its creditors.

Founded in 2020 by Jamie WynneGriffiths, Propeller Wine was initially touted as a breath of fresh air in the UK wholesaling sector.

Four years later, and one former supplier has appointed solicitors to file a windingup petition against Propeller’s parent company Wild Ferment.

The hearing is due to be heard at the Royal Courts of Justice in London with the creditor (who has asked not to be named) chasing for unpaid dues that they claim amount to more than £30,000.

Decanter, August 28

Palacio signs for Athletic Bilbao

Spanish football club Athletic Bilbao has announced an official partnership with Rioja producer Bodegas Cosme Palacio for the 2024-25 season.

The winery has produced a commemorative, limited-edition club wine, available at Athletic Bilbao’s stadium during home matches. Both parties claim a century-long link with the city of Bilbao, hence their subsequent collaboration.

Wine Searcher, August 18

Hail strikes in

Languedoc

The Languedoc was hit by hail on August 13.

The most extensive damage was in Corbières where more than 450 hectares were affected, causing losses of between 30% and 90%. Growers are describing this year’s yields as miserable.

Vitisphere, August 21

Consumers want to be greener

More than two thirds of adults try to lead an environmentally-friendly lifestyle, rising to almost three quarters for wine drinkers.

But a report by CGA found that most wine drinkers feel there is a gap between their interest and their knowledge.

Morning Advertiser, August 28

Five new Masters of Wine unveiled

The Institute of Masters of Wine has announced five candidates have joined its membership.

Neil Bernardi, Tone Veseth Furuholmen, Benjamin Hasko, Victoria Mason and Wei Xing are the latest to earn the Master of Wine title. They complete the 2024 vintage of Masters of Wine, joining Emily Brighton, Christopher Martin, Robert Mathias, Dror Nativ and Pietro Russo, who passed in February of this year.

There are now 421 active Masters of Wine in 30 countries.

Hort News, August 27

Deal includes a club wine

Counting cost of Australian surplus

Australian Vintage, Australia’s third largest producer, has delivered a staggering AU$93m loss in its 2024 financial year reports.

This comes following Australia’s red wine glut crisis caused by China’s import tariffs and declining consumption in secondary markets. In 2023, Australia had more than 2bn litres of surplus wine.

The Drinks Business, August 27

SirDavis is backed by LVMH

Bill and Beyonce

in whiskey launch

The latest on a growing list of celebrity drinks ventures is SirDavis, Beyonce’s American whiskey created in collaboration with Moët Hennessy.

This comes at a good time for the subsidiary of luxury conglomerate LVMH, which has been wanting to strengthen its reach in the US whiskey market for a while.

SirDavis, partly crafted by Master Distiller Dr Bill Lumsden, features a 51/49 rye-to-barley mash bill that promotes an elegance likened to Japanese and Scotch whiskeys whilst retaining the depth of classic American rye.

The Drinks Business, August 21

? THE BURNING QUESTION

What’s the best – and worst –business advice you’ve received?

�The best bit of business advice I ever heard, which rings so true in our sector, is: turnover is vanity, profit is sanity, but cash is reality. The worst that’s been given to me was when I was told, ‘you’re too old to start your own business, people don’t have the energy past 40’. I ignored that, and although my chiropractor is getting richer, I’m still going strong at 59.”

Paul Brown H Champagne winner H Tetbury Wines, Gloucestershire

�The best advice I’ve received was when I was at uni. It is all about staying on top of the business and being aware of and in control of all aspects to maximise your aims – profit, sales etc. The worst advice I’ve received was listening to people whose suggestions were allegedly in my best interests when in fact it was to suit their best interests at my expense. On a positive note, though – all mistakes are just opportunities so don’t dwell on them. Use them to do better next time.”

Simon Hill

The Artisan Wine & Spirits Co, Salisbury

�The best advice comes from my own life experience and what I tell myself. When things are difficult and you’re having a bad day, don’t give up and just work through the problems. The worst advice has to be ‘the customer is always right’. This morning, I spoke to someone who wanted a discount code for our website if they were going to place their first order. When I told them there wasn’t one and was asked why, I replied: ‘I am a business’.”

Jamie Lymer Givino Gin & Wine, Frome, Somerset

�I received the best advice when I was thinking of finally putting my money where my mouth is in 2008 and starting my business. I put a call in to Radio 4 who were doing a piece on the subject, and asked if it was a good time. I was told, ‘if you can make it work at the beginning of a recession then you can make it work anytime’. The worst business advice I have ever received is ‘it’s OK to have a drink in the morning’.”

Mike Oldfield M&M Personal Vintners, Evesham, Worcestershire

Champagne Gosset

The oldest wine house in Champagne: Äy 1584

DUNCAN MCLEAN

Northabout

Coasters, posters and a tiny cheque: why are indie incentives so formulaic?

Monday morning brought an email from the Wine Institute of the Faroe Islands.

“Halló! It’s Heðin from WIFI here. We’re currently working hard to raise the profile of Faroese wines, and feel your location in the Orknoyggjar makes you an ideal partner. Dream up a range of suitable promos thru November and we’ll support you all the way! For participating merchants we have WIFI branded waiter’s friends and canvas totes, plus a range of posters and coasters featuring key statistics about the young and energetic Faroese wine industry. The most

imaginative promo will win a prize of 100 króna – and a puffin-themed decanter-cosy (it gets cold up here near the Arctic circle!)”

I had a quick look and, as I suspected, no one I buy from stocks any Faroese wines. (Does anyone?) Anyway, I’ve already signed up to do a Rioja promo in November, which is just a wee bit more commercial.

On Wednesday I received a phone call from a slightly peeved representative of VdV – Vins de Vanuatu. Why hadn’t I replied to her email announcing the launch of their October marketing campaign? Wasn’t I tempted by their offer of VdV-

branded waiter’s friends, tote bags and bottle stoppers? They’d even sent me ideas for traditional food matches for Vanuatu wines to tempt our customers. “Flying fox laplap!” I cried. “Yes, I do remember now. Sounds delicious! But we’re already doing something else that month – I think it’s Brunei, or maybe Brazil, I’ll have to check.”

A rare sight: me saying no twice in one week to someone who asked me nicely! But I was driven to it. The thing is … sometimes it feels like I agree to take part in these promos to keep the promoter happy rather than because they do us much good.

How it always works is, we display the posters, we hang up the tote bags at a jaunty angle, we tape the bunting to the light fittings. And on social media we promote our big tasting weekend of the exciting wines of region XYZ. And on Friday afternoon we set out 50 glasses and open half a dozen exciting bottles. Our customers come in, buy their usual bottle or two for the weekend, and a lump of cheese.

“Can I interest you in the exciting Xinomavro we have open?” I venture. “It would go brilliantly with that Minger cheese you just bought.”

The customer looks startled. “I just bought a Merlot, didn’t I. I don’t want another bottle.”

“You don’t have to buy it. You don’t even have to try it. Just let me take a photo of you holding the bottle with a smile on your face so I can submit it as part of our end-ofpromo report.”

He leaves, and after a while is replaced by a couple who we usually see just before Christmas. They examine our line-up of open bottles with great interest. “Hello,” I cry. “Are you here for our wine tasting? Did you see our amusing post on Facebook?”

No. They just need something for a party at the weekend. Something like that one we gave them at Christmas. It was pink, fizzy, and sweet.

“I do believe that was our Brachetto d’Aqui – everyone loves that. And the amazing thing is, it’s good with fruit salad as well as …”

“Are any of these wines like that?”

“Not really. They’re from a different part of the world and very different in style.”

“Do you have anything here that’s pink?” No. “Anything fizzy?” No. “Anything sweet?” No, sorry. “Oh well. We shouldn’t anyway, we’re driving.”

By the end of Sunday we’ve sold four bottles of Xinomavro, two of Assyrtiko (and eight Brachetto d’Aqui). It’s not much, but it is 600% more than we sold in the previous week, so it looks good in the report. As do the happy snaps of our colourfully decorated shop and slightly bemused customers.

Probably best of all, the staff and I got to remind ourselves of what these obscure but wonderful wines taste like. But what else have we really gained? A few sales of these wines rather than some other equally good wines; a few additions to our stocks of branded tote bags; two or three leftover waiter’s friends to give to the next tourist who wants to take a bottle back to their hotel room (Cheeky! Go to the bar and buy the same bottle there for three times the price!)

All this attempted badinage is really leading me to one thing. Wine promo people, can’t you think of something a bit more original than posters, coasters and a tiny cheque? I don’t know what – that’s not my job – but let me think while I’m typing: 1. A free Polaroid camera for every shop so the customers can take funny pics of themselves. 2. A hamper of foods from your area we can serve up with the wines. 3. Substantial discounts with major suppliers on the wines you want to push in the lead-up to the promo. 4. Personalised editions of Monopoly for your region (€400 for a hotel on Margaux! Go direct to Jura, do not pass Allez!) 5. All-expenses trip for our entire staff to Napa Valley.

The rules on tipping are changing. Here’s how

Emma Birchall, of business advisory and chartered accountancy firm JS, explains the implications of changes to the Employment Act 2023, which come into force next month

On October 1, the Employment (Allocation of Tips) Act 2023 will come into effect, introducing significant changes to how tips are managed and distributed in the hospitality industry.

This new legislation aims to ensure that tips are all fairly and transparently distributed amongst employees, addressing longstanding concerns about their distribution.

Key changes to be introduced by the Act

Fair distribution: Employers must distribute all tips, gratuities and service charges fairly amongst employees, including cash and card-based tips. A code of practice will be presented to guide the process.

No deductions: Employers are prohibited from making any deductions from tips, including administrative fees. The only exceptions are those required by law.

policy outlining the distribution of tips. Both must be accessible to all employees on request and be readily accessible for inspection by employees or regulatory bodies.

Service charges: Any service charges added to bills must be treated as tips and distributed under the same rules as other gratuities.

Duncan McLean is proprietor of

Kirkness & Gorie, Kirkwall

The most imaginative Faroese wine promo will win a prize of 100 króna and a puffinthemed decanter cosy

Transparency: Employers will need to review their current tipping policies and update them to ensure they conform with the new rules. They will need to clearly communicate this to all employees. They should implement transparent systems for tracking and distributing tips. This might involve using software solutions that automatically record and allocate tips based on predefined criteria.

Record-keeping: Employers must keep detailed records of tips received and how they are distributed for three years. There must also be a written

Training sessions should be organised to inform employees about the new rules and how tips will be managed. Businesses should clearly communicate tipping policies to customers. This could be done through notices on menus or at the point of sale. This transparency helps manage customer expectations and ensures they understand how tips will be used. By implementing these procedures, employers will not only comply with the new rules, but also foster a fairer and more transparent working environment.

The best little warehouse in Hampshire

Not many independent merchants are bold enough to open their own bond. But for The General Wine Company, the moves makes perfect sense, as Claire Harries discovers

The General Wine Company in Liphook, Hampshire, has set up its own bonded warehouse – and owner Alan Snudden says he wishes he’d done it sooner.

“For the last 40 years we’ve been paying the duty on all the wine we import as it comes through the port,” he says. “All of our stock is duty-paid, which was fine when we were smaller. But now we’ve got a lot of stock, there’s a lot of money tied up in it, so from our point of view this was a decision based on cash flow.”

For merchants with memories of battling through HMRC guidelines to obtain AWRS status, the thought of setting up a bonded warehouse could well bring on an attack of hives. But Snudden reports that the process was pretty straightforward.

“Like a lot of government things, it’s all there on the website – it’s just a lot of reading. It probably took me about a week to get the application in in the first place. That was followed by a visit from HMRC – and you’re always scared of HMRC – but the people who came along were fantastic. They were very helpful. They went away and did their report, and it was probably another six weeks before we got the letter of approval.”

The General Wine Company has two shops and a thriving wholesale trade. Snudden won’t be drawn on the financial outlay in creating the bond, or the savings he expects to make in the longer term. “The commitment was more in time and space

rather than money,” he says.

The more experience the GWC team obtains in negotiating the paperwork covering the bond’s operation, the easier it gets, he says.

“It’s purely our stock and we’re completely in control of it. Once the stock is in and we’ve made sure it’s exactly right and it matches all the paperwork, we use the government website to say that wine has arrived. It’s as simple as that.

“Let’s say we want to get a pallet of Sauvignon Blanc out: we complete a warrant and send the money to HMRC. The warrant is usually approved within the day.

“There’s nothing complicated about it at all because we’ve actually only got maybe 30 different wines in there at the moment, and we stock nearly 2,000, so it’s very early days.

“We have had a couple of mishaps where we’ve had to redo the warrants a couple of times but that’s purely a teething problem and we are being ultra-careful. I say to the guys here, ‘just imagine that man from HMRC is just about to walk in – is your

paperwork absolutely dead right?’ But it’s a very easy process and I wish I’d done it a couple of years ago now.”

As duty-paid and duty non-paid stock cannot be mixed together, Snudden has had to create a separate warehouse for each.

“The rules are that we could have divided up the original warehouse and sort of caged off an area as the bonded section,” he says, “but it just happens that the way that we’ve done it has been with a separate warehouse.

“If it’s a full container load, then it comes straight into the bonded warehouse. That’s where the volume of stock is. If it’s something like a mixed pallet of clarets or some expensive stuff, we tend to pay the duty as it comes through and it goes into the duty-paid warehouse. That may change in the future as we get better at the processes and get more used to it, but at the moment it’s very much the fast-moving wines that go into the bonded warehouse.”

Will the company be offering this as a service to fellow indies in the future?

‘We have had a couple of mishaps. But it’s a very easy process and I wish I’d done it a couple of years ago now’

“I’d never say never,” Snudden says. “But it’s certainly suiting our purposes at the moment to keep it just for us. As we ship more wine, especially coming up to Christmas, I expect we’ll have 300 different wines in there, as well as proper racking. If we get approached by somebody to look after their stock as well ... we’re a business, after all, so we’d have a look at it.”

Alan Snudden: “At the moment it’s the fastmoving wines that go into the bond”

GOING THE DISTANCE

Graham Northeast may only be 51 but his career in wine retailing probably warrants a long-service medal.

Starting out as a teenager stacking the wine shelves of Marks & Spencer in Chichester, he caught the wine bug and within a year or two was working for Woodhouse Wines, a small chain of off-licences run by the Hall & Woodhouse brewery.

“For a few years, I was sort of a floating manager, helping out with holiday cover,” he recalls. “And then there was an issue with the shop in Fairmile [a suburb of Christchurch, in Dorset], which is just up the road here, and I was thrown in there rather hastily. That’s how it happened. We turned that one right around.”

Three years later, Hall & Woodhouse decided it no longer wanted its shop estate. “I had a very scary meeting one day – all the managers did. The ones that were leasehold were basically told, you can take the lease over yourself, or you’ll be made redundant.”

Only two managers – including Northeast, whose girlfriend had just become pregnant – took the lease option, and so Bonafide Wines was born.

He signed a 10-year lease with the vague idea of building up the business, selling it off and then

“I had a very scary meeting one day. I was basically told, you can take over the lease, or be made redundant”

Graham Northeast has been running wine shops for more than 30 years, adapting to all the challenges that have hit the specialist trade over that time. But as a seasoned marathon runner, he knows all about endurance

By Graham Holter

trying his hand at something different. But with the economy in the doldrums in 2009, and sales suffering, he signed another lease that carried him all the way to a different sort of crisis: Covid.

“The landlord was being rather silly with the lease, shall we say,” Northeast says. “They wanted to put the rent up by 30% and I just said: ‘I’ve been here for 20 years, looked after the place, paid the rent on time. I’m not paying any more. Forget it.’

“So I moved here. One of my customers is the landlord, so there’s no middleman, no horrible agents. He wanted me to be in here because he knew I’d make a nice shop of it.”

The store sits on a busy road just beyond a roundabout that marks the start of the town centre proper, at the point where business rates double. There’s 30-minute parking right outside, and the British Legion car park to the rear, which customers can also use.

Opposite, the Christchurch Conservative Club proudly flies its Union Jack in the August sunshine. This Dorset constituency returned its Tory candidate on July 4 with another thumping majority, and with its elderly demographic you sense it’s a town where the residents are conservative with both a small and a large C.

Northeast doesn’t dwell on politics, but he is happy to discuss his sport of choice: longdistance running, which seems a natural fit for someone who’s demonstrated such stamina in his professional career.

“The last run I trained properly for was the Marathon du Médoc last year,” he says.

“It was by far the hardest thing I’ve ever done. I must have done seven marathons, I think. But that … oh my god. With the heat, the elevation and the alcohol, it took me five hours. I should be able to walk a marathon in four.”

Of course, they gave him a medal, celebrating his endurance and dedication to the cause of fine wine. It was more appropriate than they realised.

How does this shop compare to the original one? Well, they both have pros and cons. It was just a small shop, but we had oceans and oceans of storage at the back, to the tune of about three garages, so that was great. There was a pull-in which you could use the whole time, which was really good. But we were completely restricted to retail, and that’s it. We couldn’t do anything else.

This place came up, which has much more retail space. But the storage is a problem, so logistically it is a nightmare. We now rent space off site for a shipping container and we use that.

We had a clean-sheet design, whereas at the other shop we were improving and changing it over 20 years. I came in with a very clear vision of what I wanted to do. We ripped everything out in this room; every single electrical wire, back to nothing. It’s all been designed exactly how I want it.

The kitchen is built at the back there, which we use for the bread and cheese at tastings, and the coffees and teas. But our long-term dream will be to do a much better food offering for our tastings. That will happen in time, but we’re not quite ready yet.

There are some very big hurdles that we’ve had to get past. We’ve been thrust in at the deep end here.

What are the next challenges on the agenda?

We went down the EPoS path this year, which is a massive step. We’ve never done it before. It’s now working really well. The next massive project is the ecommerce website, which will mean I can sell my event tickets online and not have to deal with the hassle of people WhatsApping me, emailing me and phoning me, leaving phone messages. It will be all in one place.

Your website as it stands probably doesn’t reflect the reality and personality of the business today.

Not at all. And if you don’t update every single price every time something changes and take off the wines you don’t have any more it just becomes logistically very difficult. When we had the website built for us 15 years ago, it was actually quite good. So we’ve got a new one coming. But of course, you’ve got issues with cost, reliability and support, and it has to talk to the till.

How much of an investment will the website represent?

“Our long-term dream will be to do a much better food offering for our tastings. We’re not quite ready yet”

Realistically it’s going to cost £2,500 to set up. I don’t know the way retail will go. Currently we close on Monday; when we came here three years ago, we were open seven days a week. Maybe in future I might focus on ecommerce sales on Tuesday and/or Sunday. I don’t know.

But it will allow me to do things that I’m not quite

The shop has 30-minute parking directly outside

confident enough to do with all the allocations of wines that I’ve been offered by suppliers. I don’t take them because I don’t have a route to market for these very expensive £60 bottles of wine. I don’t know who’s going to come in off the street and buy them. With an ecommerce site, I can put a case on there. I don’t even have to keep the stock in store.

Are you hoping that ecommerce will allow you to create a whole new tier in the client base?

Yes, and also offer something that other shops don’t or can’t. So that is the next step, and then it will be the food offering after that.

The fact that you’re thinking about projects like these suggests you’re still quite fired up about the industry and still enjoy it. It’s just disappointing that retail is sliding back towards pre-Covid times, whereas during Covid and just after Covid, people were buying a little bit better, and they were supporting local shops.

I understand it fully: when people are pushed financially, you know, they go back to buying their meat at supermarkets, and their wine from supermarkets. So if you were just trying to survive on walk-in retail sales, that would be difficult.

You obviously feel that the cost-of-living crisis is still biting.

I just wish that we could take the retail sales back to 10 years ago, when all you had to worry about was opening the door, ordering the stock, getting stock in the morning, filling the shop up, making it look nice, and then sell. Pound for pound, it’s probably now four times the amount of effort, with things like social media, tastings, deliveries and everything else. Just literally get it and put it on the shelf and it would sell, as long as you were good at your job.

Looking at your shelves, I can see Hatch Mansfield is an important supplier for you. Which others do you buy from?

Yeah, we like Hatch. Ellis are the most convenient, and they pull out all the stops. Customer service is amazing. They’ve got their own vehicles and, crucially, they have a few brands that are higher volume.

With any supplier that I deal with, they’ve got to have something that I can get some traction on to drive regular orders. There’s nothing worse than

“Events are now such a big part of our business. We do a wine tasting in store virtually every week, sometimes twice a week”

having to order from a supplier for six months because they won’t move on their minimum, and then I just don’t sell enough from them.

So Ellis is top by frequency, but by monetary value, it would be Boutinot. Boutinot are great: I describe them as the mortar that holds the house together. We also deal with ABS, but not that frequently – they’re amazing. Hallgarten, Joie de Vin, Marta Vine ... she’s got amazing wine but it’s not the easiest sell. Alliance.

We’ve got a lot. We cherry pick. We make our lives difficult by using many suppliers, but we’re usually only taking really good wines that work for us.

You like to go to trade tastings and it seems like you’re always trying to stay up to date with what’s new in the market.

Events are now such a big part of our business, and people don’t want to come in and try the same wine they had two weeks ago. So we do a wine tasting in store here virtually every week, sometimes twice a week.

They have to be ticketed events because you need to know how much bread and cheese to have, and how much wine. The perfect number for us is 16 people.

The shop has been designed “exactly how I want it,” Northeast says

I go to a very classy bread shop up the road in the morning and buy some really good-quality bread, and some cheese and crisps, but people can bring their own.

Do you get more or less the same people at each event?

We use MailChimp for our emailing, and we’ve now got 750 people on the mailing list. That’s good. So we can usually get good attendance every time. I still struggle, when we do very specific tastings, to get people to come to things that are amazing but not the norm. So if I did a Ribera del Duero event I’d have no problem filling that. But if I did a Riesling tasting, it would take a few weeks.

How has the wine range come together? I see there are some orange wines, which you might not expect for a conservative clientele. No wine in this shop gets on the shelf unless it meets our approval. It has to be good enough to get there in the first place. If it doesn’t sell, for whatever reason, we can then show it at a tasting at some point. That bottle, or two bottles, of that wine will get drunk on that night, and customers will say, yes, thank you, or no, thank you, or they’ll order it. So we’re always changing stuff.

Occasionally people do come in for an orange wine. But I think orange wine and pet nats are more the young person’s market, or the London market, as I understand it, which is not really our market.

From a personal perspective, are Iberian wines your favourites?

Yeah, I think it’s very exciting, and very diverse. You can get any style, can’t you, from Spain – from your Albariño and Txakoli, right up to your heavy, oak-aged white wines, to your light Grenaches and Ribera del Duero and then sherry.

My partner is from northern Spain. She gets involved in tasting but she’s not really involved in the business as such. Whenever we do a Spanish tasting, it’s quite entertaining. She corrects my pronunciation and people find that hilarious.

It’s good to have a local person’s view of that country’s wine. She will tell you that in northern Spain their red wine of choice, other than Mencia, of course, would be Ribera del Duero, and they would tend to see Rioja as a little bit mainstream.

You have a strong German line-up too.

Carl from ABS once suggested I needed educating when it came to German wine due to our lack of sales. So I went there, and that was a revelation, it really was. I’m very passionate about Riesling and German wine in general. It’s a very tough sell, but

“People don’t want to just come and sit and have a glass of wine. They want to have a glass of wine and talk to you”

we’ll always show it. We slip it into tastings, and we’ve got a good selection of Riesling now. We must have about 20, I think.

Any other countries that are exciting you right now?

I went to a very small Greek wines roadshow tasting of Hallgarten’s a few months ago which was very good. So next month, we’re going to get a whole load of new Greek wines. I do a fair amount anyway, but we’re really going to start pushing those.

Northeast’s partner is Spanish. “When we do a Spanish tasting, she corrects my pronunciation”

We’ve got a hit rate when we go to trade tastings of liking and selecting one in 10 that we try, or less. But at that particular Greek tasting, there were 40 wines there, and I wouldn’t hesitate in buying about 35 of them, which is unheard of. They were nearly all first class. Absolutely brilliant.

What’s your sweet spot now when it comes to pricing?

It’s now 15 quid. But the problem with a £15 sweet spot is that’s not affordable for what I would call a daily drinker, for most people. If they come in and buy four bottles a week, you know, that’s 60 quid. But what do you do? I mean, the cheapest wines from Boutinot are now £9 or £10. Do I start filling the shop up with cheap wine just to compete? Do I really want to choose that path?

It’s a shame that the duty increase has affected sales, I cannot lie. Because that sweet spot for us used to be £12.

How many staff do you have?

Alec is here two and a half days a week. He helps out and does some really good things like the social media. I have an autistic son, JJ, who’s 22 [above right], and he’s on the books a few hours a week. He’s the star of the show at the tastings. He comes in and helps with doing the cheese and bread.

What about wholesaling?

I did a little bit of wholesaling. We did get caught with one that went bankrupt, a posh restaurant. But with all due credit to them, they did call me, and we retrieved stock to cover the bill.

We had another one, which we did successfully for about a year. We don’t do that anymore, which is sad, but it is hard work, and it was new for us. So if we wanted to go down that route again, we’d start things a bit differently.

It was very difficult at a time when the prices were changing every three months. I can understand the frustration from our customers’ point of view, and they might think it wasn’t very professional, but it wasn’t my fault. What can you do?

Things have settled down now, but do I want to go down the wholesaling route? It’s a minefield.

You’ve got two Enomatics. How are they working out for you?

From a visual perspective, they are second to none. They show the shop in a completely different light to other shops and it shows that you’re very professional. We are getting more and more people coming in for a glass of wine, because we’re fully licensed for that. I absolutely love it, but it’s quite labour-intensive. People don’t want to just come and sit and have a glass of wine. They want to have a glass of wine and talk to you.

Do they serve themselves?

Well, they can serve themselves, but they don’t, because you can’t rely on the Enomatics to pour correctly. They are designed to be used a lot, and if you’re not drawing stuff through all of the time, somebody could put their card in there, and they could ask for a 125ml glass of wine, but it might pour 120ml. So you’ve physically got to watch, otherwise it’s Weights & Measures. But it is very good because we can put more expensive wines in there, and obviously half-full bottles of wines that we haven’t used at a tasting.

We bought our Enomatics second-hand. I’d never buy a new one. We couldn’t afford it.

I heard you talking to a customer earlier about organising a tasting at their house.

Yeah, I do tastings to order; parties and things like that. I can provide the whole service, turn up with the glasses and the wine and do everything.

We’re going to do our first trade-style tasting on November 1 in the British Legion next door, where we’re going to get about six suppliers. Hopefully they’ll all have about 10 wines, and people will pay an entrance fee that’s then deducted off any wine that they buy. So that’s a big step into the unknown.

Do you enjoy off-site events?

As long as people are having a good time, that’s the most important thing for me. Do I get sales off the back of it? Sometimes. Sometimes you don’t.

“People seem to try to save money by shopping at Aldi and Lidl just so they can have enough money for their night out”

I just think you’ve got to be a little bit entertaining with what you say. You have to be able to command your voice. It’s a very fine balance between entertaining and boring, and you’ve got to get that just right.

It feels like you’ve kept pace with all the trends that the independent trade has been through over the past decade or so, from Enomatics to going hybrid and embracing ecommerce and food. What do you think is on the horizon next?

I think the way the business will go in the longer term is it will be open fewer days, and we’ll do much more lavish events.

I think people seem to try and save as much money as they can during the week by shopping at the likes of Aldi and Lidl just so they can have enough money for their night out. If that’s the way that it’s going to go, then that’s the way we will have to change our business plan.

CHÂTEAU BONNET PROFILE

The chatter around sustainability in the wine world usually focuses on the land and the liquid, and understandably so.

But for Famille André Lurton’s president Jacques Lurton, people are a very important piece of the sustainability jigsaw as well.

“We are very well known for paying our people well and looking after them,” he says. “We put our treatment of people first on the list.”

That approach and other social responsibility measures helped the Bordeaux group’s flagship property

Château Bonnet become one of the first 13 recipients of the CIVB’s Cultivons Demain certification (referred to as the Sustainable Impact certification in English) in 2020, a year after it was introduced by the CIVB, the region’s governing body.

“It looks at consideration for the people you employ and the relationship you have with your local retailers and local suppliers,” notes Lurton, “as well as what you do in the vineyard.”

The social responsibility aspect of that certification built on the environmental aspects covered by the French government’s High Environmental Value Level (HVE3), which Bonnet attained in 2017.

“HV3 takes into consideration all aspects of production,” says Jacques. “The products you use in the vineyards, your water consumption, your electricity consumption and the management of your production process to make sure you respect the environment as much as possible.”

Bugs are welcome

lurton changes perceptions

Jacques Lurton, president of the world-renowned wine business, is proud of the Bonnet in Bordeaux to make its production more sustainable. That starts with

Bonnet was able to gain Cultivons Demain status so quickly after its inception thanks to the groundwork done for the previous seven years by Jacques’s late father, André Lurton.

In 2019, Jacques returned from Australia, where he had been managing his own biodynamic estate, Kangaroo Island, and used the learnings from his time there to build on André’s legacy on a grander scale.

Most company cars are now hybrid or electric. Replacing the lighting in the

group’s wineries, storage facilities and offices cut electricity consumption by 30%.

In the Bonnet vineyard, pesticides have been eliminated and only organic sprays are used after the initial growing season has ended, after flowering.

“It’s about having respect for the consumer,” Jacques says. “The wines are not certified organic but they have no nonorganic residues.”

Helped by trends for lighter styles of wine, use of barrel-fermentation has been

perceptions

the changes he’s overseen at Château how it treats its people

significantly reduced. Amphorae don’t need the same high amounts of steam and water to clean and don’t have to be replaced every three years, with the attendant environmental impact in use of natural resources and transportation.

Packaging has also come under scrutiny, with a full audit of the group’s wines resulting in lighter-weight bottles, and the use of recycled paper and ink. Château Bonnet’s label is the first in the industry to be made from recycled hay.

Marketing and communications director Claire Dawson says the changes have had little impact on the perception of Château Bonnet or Famille André Lurton as a premium wine producer.

“We realised that heavy bottles have no added value whatsoever as far as consumers are concerned,” she says. “But a 300g saving makes a massive difference to our carbon footprint.”

The use of wooden boxes for grand cru wines has given way to cardboard.

“It was quite a daring approach,” adds Dawson, “and the commercial team were nervous about how that would impact the people who were buying the wines: at a certain point do you need wood to generate brand value? We realised that we don’t, and they were quite happy without.

“Part of the process was working with local printers. Our cardboard boxes are produced in south west France and are 50% recycled.”

It’s Jacques’s experience in Australia which arguably most infuses Château Bonnet’s approach around biodiversity. The estate has twice-a-year production of honey from 12 hives, supervised by an in-house beekeeper. There are two dozen hens that lay eggs for the staff and sheep are introduced to the vineyards in

Find out more about the full range of Château Bonnet wines available from North South Wines by visiting northsouthwines.co.uk or call 020 3871 9210

the winter. Only sheep manure is used to fertilise Bonnet’s soil.

“If you have bees or hens they are not going to dramatically change the way you make the wine, or its taste,” acknowledges Jacques. “But it’s part of our general approach to business and has definitely changed the perception of us, both among those who work for us and those we have external relationships with.

“When they come to our château, they see this biodiversity and feel we are serious about the rehabilitation of nature in our vineyards.”

Château Bonnet is Famille André Lurton’s flagship property

The wine brands nobody loves

The blockbuster wine labels of a generation ago played a big part in establishing the modern wine market. Now they’re wildly out of fashion, which, as David Williams points out, isn’t necessarily good news, even for independent merchants

Imagine, for a moment, that the next paragraph is a kind of vinous version of a Rorschach test. Except in this case, instead of asking you to tell me what you see in a series of ink blot images, I’ll be inviting you to think about what you feel when you read a list of 11 well-known wine brands, owned until recently by two of the world’s biggest drinks companies. Ready? Here goes, and please take your time to let the full range of associations emerge: Wolf Blass, Lindeman’s, Jacob’s Creek, Brancott Estate (originally Montana Wines), Campo Viejo, Blossom Hill,

As a Gen-Xer who caught the wine bug in my early 20s, these names trigger feelings from mild to intense nostalgic affection

Yellowglen, Orlando, St Hugo, Stoneleigh, Church Road.

I’ll go first. As a Gen-Xer who caught the wine bug in my early 20s, all these names, with the exception of Blossom Hill (which induces something closer to a gag response), trigger feelings that fit somewhere along a spectrum of mild to intense nostalgic affection. These feelings are not powerful enough to make me buy any of their products, you’ll understand. It’s not like I’ve chosen to drink so much as a drop of any of these wines in the past 20 years – occasional encounters at supermarket tastings notwithstanding. Still, I can’t shake the connection these brands have with a happy, relatively carefree time in my life. And not just mine. They were a huge part of the growing British wine culture in the 1990s and 2000s, acting as reliable, good-value guides through the first varietal steps of my generation’s wine-drinking life. Some were big enough to be granted marketing

budgets comparable to the giants of FMCG, featuring in lavish print and billboard campaigns and in idents and bumper ads in expensive TV slots on programmes such as Friends (Jacob’s Creek), and being the sponsor of generation-defining sporting events such as The Ashes in 2005 (Wolf Blass).

For anyone who came to wine from the 2010s onwards, however, it’s hard to imagine any of these brands meaning very much at all. By that point, each had lost whatever it was that had made them successful in the first place. Unloved even by the companies that owned them, they had become part of the unindividuated mush of so-so supermarket and corner shop wines-by-numbers that are only ever bought if they’re on promotion or there’s just nothing else better on the shelf. For Millennials and Gen Y, my verbal vinous Rorschach test will likely simply throw up something about

“boredom” and “the definition of meh”. So, when the news emerged over the summer that all of the above brands were being sold off as part of two of the biggest wine brand sales of recent years – when first Pernod Ricard and then Treasury Estates decided to get shot of their nonpremium wine divisions – I doubt anyone younger than 45 felt anything other than indifference. Who cares about a bunch of faded, dated names that are too young to have become “vintage” and too old to have been part of their drinking repertoire? Surely only the sentimental and middleaged would think more than twice about it. But there’s more to it than one generation’s identification with the brands of their youth. There’s an end-of-an-era quality to these sell-offs that touches on some areas of real concern for the global wine industry.

First, there is the fact that many wine

businesses simply can’t make the business of commercial (or sub-£10) wine work anymore. In making its announcement about its sale plans, Treasury said the commercial brands accounted for a mere 5% of its annual profits. No wonder the company instead preferred to concentrate on Penfolds, which accounts for around three-quarters of profits.

Something similar was at play at Pernod Ricard. The company’s wine division provided just 4% of its £10bn sales and £2.8bn profits in the past year, and even that number was shrinking: down 2% on the previous 12 months. Still, the company didn’t exit the wine business entirely. It has held onto its brands in the two French regions where wine is most similar (from a sales and marketing perspective) to spirits: Provence rosé (in the shape of Château Sainte Marguerite) and Champagne (Perrier-Jouët and Mumm).

Of course, for independents, where average bottle spend now sits at £15.78, and where lower-priced mass market brands will always play second fiddle to small producers or more premium offerings from the larger firms, the struggles of the mass market may seem to be a distant concern of no more than academic interest.

But indies don’t operate in a vacuum –and the kind of wine-loving customers that frequent their shops don’t emerge fully formed once they turn 18. The wine habit has to be learned – and for the past 30 years it’s been the better of the big brands that have been responsible for almost every mature wine-lover’s early vinous education. At a time when wine sales are on a long-term downward curve, and when the wine trade is failing to attract younger drinkers, the fact that so many big names seem to be struggling should be of concern to everyone in the wine trade, no matter how they make you feel.

Probably born after Montana changed its name to Brancott Estate

WIN WONDERFUL WINE-WARE FROM WBC WHEN YOU SPOT THE DIFFERENCE

Find all 10 differences between the two images displayed opposite and you could win one of five winerelated prizes from WBC – the leading wholesale supplier of stylish, sustainable drinks packaging and display solutions you can trust

PRIZE 1

1 x Three-tier shelf trolley: If you’re looking for an eye-catching opportunity to stand out and sell more, this is a must-have when it comes to showing off your finest wines! Locally designed in dark wood and waxed steel, this impressive display unit comes with strong 200kg load-bearing castors for easy mobility and has a staggering 40kg weight capacity.

PRIZE 4

PRIZE 2

1 x One-bottle wooden box with sliding lid: Beautifully made from sustainably sourced pine, WBC offers the perfect alternative to a regular gift bag. Housing a standard-sized bottle (90 x 300 mm), this product is an ideal way to introduce your best-sellers to your customers. Equipped with a sliding lid and a sturdy rope handle, they’ll be able to carry it home with ease.

1 x Derwent large adjustable sign with card: Make sure your shop, stall or hospitality signage always looks elegant with this hand-forged stand in iron and brass. Height-adjustable to suit your display needs, it can be used at the back of your countertops or to attract attention from across the room. This item facilitates an A6 sign that slots easily into its sturdy frame.

PRIZE 3

1 x Two-bottle wooden box with sliding lid: Make sure your merchandise stands out by presenting it in these refined, eco-friendly pine boxes. Each unit can accommodate a pair of standard wine, spirit or Champagne bottles (no bigger than 90 x 300 mm each), making it the perfect display case for your store. You can also remove its central divider to convert it into a handy wooden hamper.

PRIZE 5

4 x Double-walled acrylic wine coolers: A great addition to your bar accessory collection, this high-end product will keep your wine perfectly chilled without the need for any ice. Cleverly designed to prevent condensation, its clear acrylic walls and silver rim will showcase your bottle of choice, making it an ideal accessory for both private celebrations and corporate events.

HOW TO ENTER

• Find all 10 differences between the two pictures and mark them on image B using a Sharpie-type pen.

• Take a clear photo of your edits and send it to claire@ winemerchantmag.com, using “Spot the Difference” as your subject line.

• Make sure to include your name, address and business details.

All correct entries received by October 15 will be entered into a draw and five winners will be randomly selected.

Terms and conditions:

• Only one entry per business.

• Retailers only.

• Entries received after October 15 will not be considered.

• No parties will engage in any form of correspondence

• Winners will be announced on November 15.

This competition is a joint venture between WBC and The Wine Merchant

the biggest and the best

Thirteen independents reveal their best-selling wine – and the wine that’s their personal favourite

Verity Sessions

Verity sessions

Palate Bottle Shop, Shoreham-by-Sea, Sussex

Favourite

Troupe Welcome to the Jungle 2022, Austria

Troupe are a collective of wine lovers, makers and creatives that search the cellars of incredible growers to find hidden gems that may otherwise never have seen the light of day. This was their second release, a collaboration with winemaker Martin Diwald in Austria, and it’s priced at £32. The biodynamic wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling fermented on the skins for nine days. They say the results are “like a peach iced tea with a Michelada finish” and I couldn’t agree more.

Best seller

Keeling & Andrew Chin Chin Vinho Verde, Portugal

People just love it. It tastes good, looks great and offers bangs for bucks at £12.95. We get through around 40 bottles a month.

orsi ajvazoV

Bruno, north London

Favourite

Vin Noé Bourgogne Rouge, Gueule d’Amour 2022

This wine, at £63, showcases new-wave Burgundy and what you can do with Pinot Noir if you think outside the box. Jonathan Purcell is part of a group of winemakers who make amazing cru Burgundies with humbleness towards the environment. When you walk with him in the vineyard he can name all the herbs and weeds between the rows – and in the winery he has an extremely handsoff approach. His wines are layered and all of them have their own personality according to the parcels and barrels he’s working with.

Best seller

Vins et Volailles Putes Feministes 2022, Alsace

adam Ventress Chapel Street Wines, Lancaster

Favourite

Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato, Sicily

The name and labelling are quite provocative but that was the aim of the group who created it; all of their labels have very strong feminist messages. They are a Paris-based agency who produce their own label in selected wineries across Europe. It’s a skin contact wine made from Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Riesling. The flavour profile has lots of flowers, a bit of rose petal and a cleansing acidity from the Riesling: the perfect orange wine fix. It fits in the mid-range category at £55 but the main selling point is the label and the story behind it.

Over the years I’ve developed a preference for lighter, fresher styles of red over big heavy oaky ones, and this is a perfect example, priced £39. It’s from the native Sicilian variety Frappato, which produces remarkably light and fragrant red wines in a hot climate, especially from Vittoria, and especially in the expert hands of a fantastic biodynamic winemaker like Occhipinti. It’s almost like a red wine in the style of a white. I love the juicy red fruits, floral and mineral notes and tonic-like freshness. It’s a perfect red to sip and savour lightly chilled, and it goes great with Sicilian dishes such as Pasta alla Norma.

Best seller

Mezzogiorno Fiano, Puglia

In addition to being a popular wine in the shop, we sell lots of it to a local restaurant who serve it by the glass. The key to any wine at any price point is balance, and this has a great balance between ripe stone fruit flavours and crisp freshness, for just £10.95.

cyriaque lajoinie

2 Many Wines, York

Favourite

Delheim Pinotage rosé 2023, South Africa

With the better weather recently I’ve chosen this for its freshness and clean approach. I would never have been able to say that this particular varietal was a go-to for me, but after sampling this wine, I thought it had a quality from cautious winemaking in keeping with the style of Pinotage and offering something a little different to the Provence style we see everywhere. It sells for £19.50.

Best seller

Logodaj Melnik 55 2022, Bulgaria

Not only does it fly out the door because of the bottle and the taste, but also for the story: early Melnik was one of the most ancient varieties used in winemaking. It gives so much for £18, with dark chocolate, sour cherry, tannins, length, texture and structure. It can come in magnums or jeroboams, which look even better.

sara hobday

Vin Van Cymru, Cardiff

Favourite

Valentino & Finch Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017

This is made by a Welshman, Darren Jenkins, who took over an old Italian estate in Abruzzo. He grabbed a few bottles from the boot of his car and offered me a taste over a year ago and, although at first apprehensive, I was blown away by the quality of the wine. It’s full-bodied with dark fruits, spice, notes of violets and subtle oak influence. I love the little Welsh dragon on the traditional Italian label and always try to grab a few cases whenever Darren is visiting Cardiff. It retails for £17.

Best seller

Dell Vineyard Y Lleidr rosé 2022, Wales

A gold medal winner at the 2023 Welsh Wine Awards, this dry rosé, priced £23, has fresh notes of strawberries, raspberries and something similar to the first rain after a spell of warm, dry weather. Lleidr means thief in Welsh and is a nod to the blackbirds and badgers that ate almost all of the first harvest, leaving only enough grapes to make 130 bottles. This vintage has sadly sold out, but the 2023 vintage is proving to be just as popular.

maxence masurier

Made in Little France, Islington, north London

Favourite

Corty Artisan Silex Pouilly Fumé, Loire

Patrice Moreux’s family has been working the vineyards in and around Sancerre for 12 generations – that’s about 300 years, so they really know what they’re doing. This is from a small plot of poor clay soils full of flint –the silex in the name – that is perfect for growing Sauvignon Blanc and an amazing example of what the variety can do.

Priced £32, it’s all tart green fruit, citrus and thyme with incredible freshness and racy minerality. I love it with grilled chicken but it’s the perfect white for long summer afternoons.

Best seller

General manager Marjorie Cazes

Domaine Chateau de Quinçay Touraine Primeur, Loire

We’ve been selling loads and loads of this delightfully juicy and dangerously drinkable Gamay light red since it hit our shelves last month. We always keep a few bottles in the fridge for customers and it’s been really popular at our new shop/wine bar in Stoke Newington, retailing for £15.50. In fact, it was so popular we had complaints when we took it off the menu for a week.

Sara Hobday

Marty Grant

marty grant

Corkage, Bath

Favourite

Pearl Mountain For the Birds Flight of the Drongo 2020, South Africa

Flight of the Drongo is a gentle, spicy Grenache made the old world way: low sulphur, low intervention, clean, fresh, pretty and delicate with flinty, smoky notes. I love the back story of how the native Drongo bird, which had been absent for decades, returned to breed on the land once the farm went back to natural and lowintervention methods. They only make this wine and then only around 3,000 bottles a year, with half of the fruit left for the birds. I particularly enjoy this lightly chilled. We sell it for £22.

Best seller

Domaine de la Chevalerie Franco de Porc 2020, Loire

It’s a juicy Cabernet Franc with dark fruit flavours and hints of bitter cherry. The wine is wonderfully lively and intense and works really well with food or just on its own, which is probably why it sells so well. The price point (£16.50) also helps as it does offer a lot of quality juice for the money. We have built up quite a loyal following for it through our wine bar and restaurant, with many guests grabbing a bottle or two to go once they have tried it in-house. It is also a favourite staff recommendation with pigeon, which is often on our menu.

louise scott

Alexander Hadleigh Wine Merchants Southampton

Favourite

Bodegas Vina Nora Albariño, Rías Baixas

Albariño has become a favourite of mine for its beautifully balanced bright acidity and refreshing flavours. It’s very versatile and an ideal choice for any occasion. I like to pair it with a roast chicken dinner or to simply enjoy a glass or two sat in the sunshine. It retails for £20.95.

Best seller

Rua Pinot Noir, Central Otago

It’s also the favourite of the owner, Del Taylor. She loves its depth of flavour, and its sumptuous, plushy fruitiness. We are always recommending Rua, which sells for £26.98, and customers ask for “Del’s choice”.

sarah

hall

Doddington Hall Wine Shop, Lincoln

Favourite

Pegaso Zeta Vino de Garnacha 2021, Sierra de Gredos, Spain

I tasted this recently and had to stock it – we sell it for £24.95. It’s my favourite grape variety, favourite country for wine and has an amazing taste. I’m a huge motor sport fan so it was made even better as the vineyard is co-owned by Carlos Sainz Sr, former world rally champion and dad of F1 driver Carlos Sainz Jr. I am raising a glass during each F1 race this season.

Best seller

Château Mahon-Laville Bordeaux

Supérieur 2022

This wine delivers exactly what you would expect at a great price point of £15.95. It is so easy to recommend as the quality exceeds the price point and it is a real crowd pleaser. We sell around two cases a week.

James Brown

Les Hall

Jim Hughes

Charlie Jones

Favourite

Papagiannakos Old Vines Savatiano, Greece

This wine’s attractive, but pleasantly understated, label immediately caught my eye when it arrived in the shop a few months back. I took the wine straight home to try on the Friday, enjoyed it immensely and then made sure another bottle was open to taste in the shop on Saturday. We’ve worked hard of late to grow our Greek range, keeping a close eye on both quality and value for money, while offering something a bit different. This wine is, I’d say, a perfect example of that, and it retails for £16. A crisp, fresh and citrussy white that is the very essence of Greece and the Mediterranean.

Best seller

Carlos Reynolds Tinto, Portugal

We were first introduced to the wonderful wines of Julian Reynolds by our dear friend Craig Bancroft, managing director of the Northcote Manor hotel in Blackburn, about 15 years ago. We were bowled over by the quality, especially when we discovered the price. It retails for £12.50 and we all think it’s the best value wine in the shop. It’s grown up in style over the years, but still offers ripe fruit, soft tannins and great structure. Julian does three other reds in the range, going up to £50 with the glorious Gloria Reynolds, but Carlos will always have our hearts.

jim hughes

Bacchanalia, Cambridge

Favourite

Colète White, Napa

This is a sensational, fresh-yet-creamy, complex and layered wine, selling for £45, created by the legendary Raj Parr and Marie Vayron-Ponsonnet, cellared and bottled by Sandhi Vintners. It’s a 50:50 Sauvignon-Sémillon blend that’s great on release but worthy of cellaring for a couple of years to really let it sing. I’m on a mission to make white Bordeaux and its global kin a “thing”.

Best seller

Domaine Boutinot AOP

Cairanne

This incredible value (£16.99) village-level cru from the southern Rhône is rich, full-bodied, unctuous, full of black cherry, kirsch, vanilla, baking spices and a hint of garrigue. For me it sums up an indie wine: something that shows its terroir, that you don’t find easily in supermarkets, yet delivers great value and an accessibility through classical, gently sophisticated winemaking.

james brown

The Wine Loft, Brixham, Devon

Favourite

Sarja Inkibi Cannonau di Sardegna DOC 2022

I’m currently enjoying lighter reds and this Sardinian Grenache from Boutinot certainly hits the spot and has been a winner by the glass and from the shelves. It is delightfully perfumed, with aromas of cranberry, redcurrant and a little spice. The palate is juicy forest fruits with gentle tannins and bright acidity. My preference is to serve it chilled, when its translucent colour almost makes you think rosé. It retails for £19.99.

Best seller

Lunaria Civitas Biodynamic Pecorino 2022

What’s not to love about this wine? When we put it on by the glass it sells out in the shop for £17.25 a bottle. It’s beautifully packaged with lots of pointers to its Demeter certification, which makes it easy to engage with customers about how low-intervention wines are made, and contrast this with mass-produced wines. The wine, which we buy from Ellis of Richmond, has all the flavours one would hope for from a good Pecorino: ripe pear, peach and hints of citrus. The palate is rich and long with a pleasingly complex minerality. A banger!

charlie jones

The Winemakers Club, Farringdon, London

Favourite

Contra Soarda Vespaiolo 2023, Veneto

Vespaiolo is a grape I’d never heard of before. It’s scarcely planted and mostly used in blends to make sweet wine in Veneto. I read that it gets its name from the wasps (vespe) that are attracted to the ripe and sugary grapes. It’s just a touch off-dry but has beautiful acidity for balance, so it feels really fresh. It tastes familiar – we often describe it as being a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling – but has so much of its own character, and it’s absolutely delicious with salty fried fish. It retails for £24.

Best seller

Tenuta di Carleone Chianti Classico 2021

This £35 wine is from Radda, so it’s a more elegant expression of Sangiovese – pure but still with loads of depth. There is a lot to say about its complexity, nuance and balance, but maybe more important than that is the sort of smile-inducing effect it has on people. We don’t have many customers specifically looking for Chianti, but I don’t think I’ve ever shown it to anybody who hasn’t bought a bottle. My boss has a saying that “great wine can be enjoyed by everybody” and this is a perfect example.

a fresh take on rioja

Bodegas Zinio wines, imported by ABS, offer independents some exciting new options from a classic region. We invited three merchants to taste four of the wines for themselves

Anyone who feels that Rioja can sometimes feel a bit samey and unexciting has probably not encountered Bodegas Zinio.

This Rioja Alta cooperative of 200 growers has the motto “anything is possible”, and the wines that charismatic export manager Mariola Varona presents to a group of Wine Merchant readers in London illustrate why the business prides itself on its open-minded approach. You can sense the producer’s excitement about its own wines, and it’s an energy that’s infectious.

Mariola is keen to stress that Zinio is a “humble” producer, based in a tiny village which was poor before EU money started

to transform the Spanish wine industry. Although it dates back to 1986, the modern iteration of Zinio is really only about 25

years old, and there’s a youthful dynamism to its approach.

In total, the group farms more than 400 hectares, encompassing 22 different soil types.

“We understand the land, we understand the terroir and we have a different type of personality,” Mariola says. “We want to show that the Rioja region can have new styles which can open up the market to new opportunities.”

Feature produced in association with Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies. For more information, visit abs.wine or call 01780 755810.

From left: Carlos Blanco, Blanco & Gomez, west London; Abbi Moreno, Flora Fine Wines, west London; Mariola Varona, Bodegas Zinio; Julia Jenkins, Flagship Wines, St Albans

Zinio Street Art Collection

Tempranillo Blanco 2021

RRP £20

Tempranillo Blanco is one of Rioja’s most marginalised varieties, but Zinio has wholeheartedly embraced it. The group now has 12 hectares of plantings to work with, and produces around 6,000 bottles under this label each vintage.

Made by winemaker María Martinez, with assistance from Scottish-born Master of Wine Norrel Robertson, the wine has a pronounced minerality and notes of white flowers, citrus and brioche. It spends six months ageing in 500-litre acacia barrels.

“We want to show the uniqueness of the variety, not only to drink young but for its potential to age,” Mariola explains. “It brings the opportunity to reopen the conversation about white Rioja.”

Abbi Moreno of Flora Fine Wines picks up on the acacia notes, adding that the wine is “quite herbaceous”. Carlos Blanco of Blanco & Gomez says: “It’s very unique – it’s excellent. You wouldn’t know what this was in a blind tasting.”

Tempranillo Blanco is an intriguing natural mutation of Tempranillo, with a green tinge. “I believe its potential has not been exploited yet,” Mariola says.

Zinio Street Art Collection

Tempranillo & Graciano 2020

RRP £17

“The idea here was to go into the vineyards and choose the best grapes,” says Mariola. “Normally the best grapes are going to be used in a reserva or gran reserva, a wine for ageing. The idea of Norrel and María was to show people what the best grapes from Rioja can be like in their naked form. The grapes are very true to where they come from. Normally the young red wines we produce are rustic and powerful but this is so elegant and so finessed. I always say to Norrel, it’s as enjoyable as a good Pinot Noir.”

The violet aromas and keen acidity of the Graciano component are pretty unmistakable, even though it’s only 5% of the blend. “I thought the Graciano percentage would be more than that,” admits Abbi Moreno. The black fruits and liquorice notes can be ascribed to the Tempranillo.

Zinio Tempranillo Crianza 2019

RRP £16

“This style of crianza is traditional, but clean,” says Mariola. “In the past, especially in the UK market, a lot of crianzas were quite earthy on the nose, and had very dark aromas.

“We use one, two or three-year-old American oak here, rather than French, and the wine spends 12 months in barrel. The idea is to show the best grape selection from 72 hectares dedicated to crianza and reserva.”

She adds: “María loves the balance between the oak and the fruit character and she believes that the Tempranillo needs to show. When you add too much oak or the oak is too new, you lose the balance. We like the spiciness and the earthiness – in a clean way.”

Julia Jenkins of Flagship Wines says: “This is 2019 and it’s had time in the barrel, but it’s fresh and has that underlying youthfulness, which is quite appealing.”

Abbi Moreno adds: “I think the balance is nice. It’s modern but it’s still very definitely Rioja. It’s what people expect when they want a Rioja. They want vanilla and they want spice but this has also got that lean freshness. If I put that on by the glass it would sell heaps.”

RRP £18

This wine, according to Julia Jenkins, represents “a huge step-up in style”. Aged for 24 months in a blend of French and American oak, it’s quite tightlywound as we pour it, even after some impromptu double decanting. It starts to open up as we chat and eat, but undoubtedly its best years are ahead of it.

Storks are beloved by the people of Uruñuela, Zinio’s home village, and have star billing on the label, which appears on about 36,000 bottles each vintage.

The wine itself represents more evidence that Zinio can turn its hand to a classic style of Rioja, in a way that appeals to modern tastes without alienating the purists. Its silky blend of cherries and black fruits, melded with cloves, vanilla and coconut, clearly has broad appeal.

Terroir de Zinio Tempranillo Reserva 2018

Elodie Rousselot puts a lot of ingredients into the wines she makes at Château Bellevue. These include the skills she developed working in California, Chile and Australia – but mainly what nature gives her in the crus of Beaujolais.

Published in association with Château Bellevue, whose wines are imported in the UK by Hayward Bros.

For more information visit chateau-bellevue.fr or haywardbros.co.uk

Château Bellevue is blessed. The vast majority of its 18 hectares of vineyards are in the celebrated Morgon cru, with parcels in some of the finest lieux-dits. The property’s other great blessing is its winemaker, Elodie Rousselot. She speaks with a sincerity and bubbly enthusiasm for Beaujolais that makes a person want to stack their shelves high with Gamay alone.

Rousselot is evidently smart and determined too. An open day at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune opened her eyes to viticulture, and was the first step to a winemaking diploma from the University of Beaune.

International travel, and jobs in wineries as far afield as California, Chile (Baron Philippe de Rothschild) and Australia (Yalumba) dominate the CV from graduation to arriving at Bellevue. Rousselot embraced the experiences, learning lessons along the way. “I found everything in California very square, with precise measurements … they were very advanced when it came to the cleanliness and sanitisation of the winery, and I have brought some of that rigour to Bellevue,” she says.

“In Chile the winery was an extremely basic facility with no walls, just a roof. Some of the equipment was very dated, and there were some things we just didn’t have, all of which taught me to find solutions, and to be confident with them.”

The arrival of Covid delayed Rousselot’s departure from Yalumba by a year, which was her silver lining to the pandemic cloud: “I was the night-shift winemaker, and I loved working for them. The experience taught me to think about winemaking in a very different way, working on such a large scale.”

The pandemic over, Rousselot returned to France and began her tenure at Bellevue. Her already beaming smile widens as the conversation turns to her Beaujolais home.

The property has 13 hectares in Morgon, three in Fleurie and two in Beaujolais

Blanc. The white is a serious enterprise, with the Chardonnay vines sited in some of the best limestone terroirs of the appellation. The cuvée was first made in 2020 and sells out every year. Partial fermentation and ageing in oak, with 10 months on the lees, gives a sophisticated wine. It is a classy alternative to its pricier Burgundian peers. Bellevue would love to find more vineyards in the Pierres Dorées.

Turning to Morgon, Rousselot says: “It is a cru with a high-quality image, that is both exceptional and diverse. The diversity of terroirs is truly amazing, from the blue soils of the Côte du Py to the more granitic soils elsewhere.

Vineyard elevations range from 200 to 500 metres and this, with differing exposures, can give the wines great freshness. Every day I think how lucky I am to be working here.”

Bellevue’s USP is that it makes five Morgon wines, each an expression of an individual climat or lieu-dit. The winemaking changes little across the range, with subtle adjustments according to the terroir’s qualities and the vintage. Rousselot makes it clear that she wants to make fruit-forward wines. In the winery there is limited whole-bunch pressing and gentle pumping over. Stainless steel and cement tanks are the primary fermentation and ageing vessels, with wooden barrels typically several years old.

Rousselot gives an enticing whistlestop tour of the estate’s five Morgon wines.

Les Charmes, with seven hectares, is Bellevue’s most significant holding. The vineyards are sited at 400 metres above

sea level, with a south to south easterly exposure. The soils here comparatively heavy and take a while to warm up. It is the last of the climats to be harvested. “It is a very delicate wine, not too extracted and the most perfumed [Morgon]. There are less tannins, and the wine is very elegant,” says Rousselot.

In contrast, Grand Cras appeals with its “richness and generosity”. The vineyards are on the southern border of Côte du Py. The soils are deep, blue stone and schist, where the high-density planted gobelet vines thrive. Fermentation takes place in concrete, with a proportion of the wine sometimes being aged in old oak barrels, which were first purchased in 2009.

In Côte de Py itself, Bellevue has a mere hectare to its name, but what a hectare it is. On the west side of the hill, the 10,000 vines are over 80 years old. “This is a wine with so much elegance … it has great concentration, complexity and ageing potential,” says Rousselot.

On the other side of the hill, the stones are bigger and there is less clay. This is Javernières, where the Bellevue vineyard is fortunate to have 100-year-old vines that give wines “that are unique in Beaujolais, and known for being consistent regardless of the vintage”, Rousselot says.

“The wines are very deep in colour and have a very intense aroma … they’re very

concentrated and complex. This is a wine that is aged entirely in barrels.”

Finally, the one-hectare Corcelette Le Clos sits within the boundaries of the Bellevue. It is a full-bodiedwine that Rousselot is now experimenting with, putting a little of the wine in amphora for ageing. “I find that Gamay is a grape that takes its time to integrate with oak … my hope is that using amphora will give the benefits of micro-oxygenation without having to use oak.”

So what can the wines of Bellevue and Beaujolais offer indies and their customers? “So much,” says Rousselot. “The wines are still amazing value for money given their quality and, in some cases, ageing potential.

“You can find wines with the richness of a southern Rhône, just as there are wines that have more Burgundian delicacy and finesse. There are so many terroirs in Beaujolais; geologists have recently identified 300 soil types.

“It is great to have independents selling our wines, so they can talk about them directly with the consumer.”

Bellevue is in gifted and enthusiastic hands. The wines give a fabulous opportunity to taste the many flavours and qualities of the Morgon cru, crafted by one person. What a treat.

Château Bellevue

Grand Cras wines are fermented in concrete

Winemakers wax lyrical about how cooling breezes, planting at elevation and judicious picking contribute to the freshness of their wines. It all boils down to acidity – which, alongside alcohol, tannin and sweetness, is integral to a wine’s flavour profile, balance and structure, and contributes to its overall character and quality.

It also affects its ageing potential and how wine tastes and interacts with food. Without it, a wine can seem flat, flabby and unbalanced. But what is it and what do winemakers do if it’s lacking?

Acids occur naturally in grapes, the most prevalent being tartaric, malic and citric, and some wine grape varieties have inherently higher acidity than others. Levels of acidity are influenced by heat, with grapes grown in cooler climates generally having higher acidity (and a lower pH) than those in warmer climates. So an Argentinian Malbec will typically have a lower natural acidity than a French wine from the same grape, because each country’s climate affects the acidity level in the fruit.

Most wine enthusiasts know this, but what’s less well-known, at least by the average consumer, is that many wines have gone through an acidification process to increase the overall level of acidity. The procedure isn’t just permitted in many countries, but widely accepted as part of the winemaking process, just like fining or chaptalisation.

It’s rarely mentioned or referred to in discussing a wine’s qualities, and you’re unlikely to find a producer extolling the benefits of adding tartaric acid. So who’s doing it and is there anything wrong with it?

Giles Cooke MW, founder and winemaker at Thistledown Wines in Australia, says there’s more value to acidity than what we detect on the palate.

“As well as increasing the freshness and balance, I’d argue that the main purpose of acidification is to reduce the pH of the wine for a healthy environment for fermentation, because high pH ferments are at risk of microbial faults,” he says. “It’s extremely common in regions where it’s legal, and for many red wines grown in warm climates it’s almost de rigeur.”

Peter Mitchell MW, of Jeroboams Trade, agrees. “In warmer climates, by the time grapes have reached physiological ripeness, the levels of acidity can be too low and the pH too high for the wine

“For many red wines grown in warm climates, acidification is almost de rigeur”

Giles Cooke MW Thistledown Wines

to be balanced and there’s a risk of microbial instability and spoilage. In these circumstances, acid adjustment is all but essential.”

Mitchell also points out that acidification can enhance the effectiveness of sulphur dioxide, increase colour stability and protect against costly wine faults. “And if done correctly it should make a more stable, balanced and better-tasting finished wine,” he says.

Given the temperature influences on acidity levels, historically acidification has mainly been carried out in hotter regions. But it’s increasingly common in cooler places where climate change is causing higher temperatures to the detriment of traditionally planted grape varieties.

Chris Piper, of Christoper Piper Wines in Devon, says: “More sunshine hours mean that grapes are ripening with higher alcohol levels and beginning to show a lack of freshness.” As Peter Mitchell at Jeroboams notes, some popular international varieties aren’t necessarily suited to the changing climate.

“Done correctly, acidification should make a more stable, balanced and better-tasting finished wine”

Peter Mitchell MW Jeroboams Trade

But it’s not all about climate-related temperature. Places with a high potassium content in the soil –and therefore in the grapes – can produce wines with adequate acidity, but a high pH, owing to the exchange of ions between tartaric acid and potassium. Peter Mitchell again: “In these cases, despite having a high level of acidity already, it might be necessary to acidify to get a low enough pH for stability. Burgundy has had issues with high potassium levels in some sites, as have some Australian vineyards.”

When the fruit arrives at the winery, the grape must is analysed, taking account of total acid and pH, and a decision will be made about what addition is required to get the pH to a safe level for a healthy ferment: usually around 3.7 or below. It’s then a fairly simple process of dissolving tartaric acid crystals in the grape must and fermenting as usual.

Can you tell if a wine has been acidified simply by tasting it? The answer seems to be somewhere between “no” and “it depends”. Mitchell and Cooke agree that if the process has been too heavy-handed – or worse, carried out post-fermentation and not fully assimilated – the acidity might feel a little detached from the palate with a hardness that’s at odds with the ripeness. But if the adjustment was

modest and done early, it’s unlikely anyone will be able to tell.

So what’s the problem? As with many things in life, it appears to be a question of perception, both in the industry and among the public. All of the experts we spoke to referred to a certain mystique, not to mention marketing value, to the perceived “naturalness” of a wine.

“Most drinks are heavily manufactured,” Mitchell says, “so wine is somewhat unusual in that much of it is remarkably unmanipulated and the adjustments that are allowed – at least for wine sold in Europe – are very limited and strictly controlled.

“The occasional adjustment after a difficult growing season would seem to me to be sensible. But consumers know very little about how their food and drink is made and preserved, which leads to a potential knee-jerk reaction when the word ‘additive’ comes up.”

Ben Witchell, winemaker at Flint Vineyard in Norfolk, says that while acidification isn’t something English vineyards generally need to do (in fact it’s illegal in most years) there are a lot of adjustments in the winery that the consumer won’t be aware of. “But not all of the additions we make are corrections,” he says. “Is dosage a correction? If so, all Champagne is corrected. What about using SO2? I have a basic rule that if I’m not happy to put it on my label then I won’t do it.”

Which brings us to labelling. If acidification is a common practice, and it’s seen by experts as a prudent adjustment, why is no one being

Wineries make an early decision about what acid to add

“Not all of the additions we make are corrections. Is dosage a correction? If so, all Champagne is corrected”

Ben Witchell Flint Vineyard

transparent enough to admit to it on their label? Actually, some winemakers are, but they’re few and far between.

Ridge in Sonoma is one of just a handful speaking plainly about wine adjustments. Its website states: “We talked a lot about the honesty factor. We were going to make an honest label, and all the information that a real wine lover would want was going to be on it.” True to its word, water, calcium carbonate and tartaric acid are included in the Ridge ingredient list when they are used.

Here in the UK, the Co-op has pioneered consumer-friendly wine labelling, with its ownlabel wines listing tartaric acid when it’s been added, alongside sulphur dioxide as a preservative and bentonite, used in fining. But there’s a long way to go before most producers follow suit.

Why the reluctance to be open? “There’s a sense that wine is – or should be – one of the most unmanipulated consumable products out there,” Mitchell says, “and that by adjusting a wine it could be said you’re potentially losing some of its uniqueness and its sense of terroir – that the wine is in danger of being just another manufactured beverage. This is what I suspect leads to an unwillingness to talk about adjustments.”

Cooke goes a step further, suggesting that some producers are reluctant to admit that they have the wrong variety in the wrong place, picked too late, or their climate has warmed to a degree that the varieties planted no longer suit. Witchell also picks up on this, saying that intervention in the winery isn’t always necessary unless the winemaker is aiming for a style that’s not right for their fruit.

So is there a sense that it’s cheating? “I guess that depends on your personal philosophical standpoint,” says Mitchell.

Cooke agrees. “I think most serious wine producers these days would use as little in the way of additives as possible – both from an ethical/ aesthetic perspective but also from a commercial one, because they all add costs,” he says.

“But it can be the difference between a correct and a spoiled wine. Within limits, there are things that you can do to mitigate against the use of acid adjustments – earlier picking, using high-acid varieties, acidic juice, selected yeasts, etc. For any pragmatic winemaker, it’s a useful tool to have – but shouldn’t necessarily be part of the ‘recipe’.”

Winemaker Profile

Donny Sebastiani

Don Sebastiani & Sons

Donny Sebastiani’s great grandfather, Tuscanborn Samuele Sebastiani, arrived in California in 1895, establishing a family winery that was eventually sold in the early 2000s. After that, Donny, his father Don and brother August set up a new venture, Don Sebastiani & Sons, focused on crafting quality, appellation-driven wines.

Tell us a little bit about the set-up at Don Sebastiani & Sons.

Our winery is in Napa and our wines are all about capturing the classic California spirit – subtle, with moderate alcohol levels and designed to pair beautifully with food. They’re a nod to the oldschool California winemakers who really let the fruit speak for itself.

We’re big believers in matching the right grapes to the right style – different grapes for different goals. Take our Big Smooth wine, for example, which has a modern, jammy flavour profile thanks to the warm, sugar-rich Lodi grapes. For other wines, though, we look to cooler coastal climates like Clarksburg. It’s a bit of an unsung hero, but it consistently delivers wonderfully balanced wines. While some of our wines carry the broader California appellation, we source grapes from premium regions like Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino. Each region brings its own unique character to the wines. But Clarksburg is really our go-to – it’s the backbone of many of our wines, providing that reliable, consistent quality we need, year after year.

California wine can be expensive in the UK. How do you manage to hit mainstream price points between £13 and £17?

For The Path, we broaden our sourcing to include Paso Robles, Lodi, and the Central Valley. Paso Robles, in particular, plays a significant role. It’s divided by Highway 101, with the west side being smaller and closer to the ocean, and the east side being flat and expansive, which gives us the opportunity to grow more affordable wines. Lodi and the Central Valley are also key regions that help us keep quality high while maintaining accessibility.

The Path is our way of steering people towards California and away from other entry-level options; it’s our gateway into the portfolio. Leese-Fitch, on the other hand, is our heritage brand and the most important wine brand in our portfolio, both

For more information on Lanchester Wines or the Don Sebastiani & Sons wines mentioned, visit lanchesterwines. co.uk/ DonSebastiani

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in the US and internationally. When we start a conversation, it’s always with Leese-Fitch.

Our wines need to be varietally correct with all the notes and tones you’d expect. This focus is crucial for all our wines, but especially for The Path. We don’t want our wines to taste generic. They should proudly represent their variety.

What’s your approach to Chardonnay wines?

We’re all about crafting wines that evoke a sense of comfort and indulgence. We source grapes from top regions like Lodi and Sonoma Carneros, picked at just the right time to maintain that perfect balance of richness and vibrancy.

This makes our Chardonnays both creamy and full of tropical fruit flavours, yet balanced and approachable. For example, our Custard Chardonnay draws inspiration from warm, rich flavours reminiscent of a classic custard-filled doughnut.

Leese-Fitch Chardonnay is inspired by a desire to celebrate the rich history and heritage of Sonoma, blending tradition with modern winemaking techniques. This Chardonnay reflects our commitment to crafting approachable, highquality wines that embody the spirit of California’s winemaking culture.

The Path Chardonnay is crafted with the intention of offering a wine that resonates with the beauty and diversity of California’s vineyards, capturing the essence of the land and its ability to produce exceptional wines. Both wines represent Don Sebastiani & Sons’ dedication to innovation, quality and a deep connection to our Californian roots.

What about Pinot Noir?

We want to strive for varietal typicity, for want of a better word, or varietal correctness: Pinot Noir tastes like Pinot Noir, even at entry level.

We believe in celebrating the unique qualities of our local terroir rather than trying to replicate Burgundy. California’s climate gives us the ability to produce Pinot Noir with a distinct character: fruitforward with vibrant acidity and a silky texture. While Burgundy is the benchmark for many, we embrace the diversity that California offers. By focusing on what California does best, we create Pinot Noir that is authentic to our land, highlighting the strengths of our vineyards and weather conditions.

The state of the states

Drink less but better. It’s a message that gets to the core of independent wine merchants’ way of thinking about wine, which, to put it another way, places the emphasis very firmly on paying a premium for quality over filling up cheaply on quantity. And, in a world of declining wine consumption (driven in no small part by health and sustainability concerns), many observers would say it’s the only viable path for wine production.

Certainly, the wine industry in the USA seems to be moving very decisively in that direction, with the global consumption slump pushing American vintners to make, in essence, a virtue of necessity by increasingly focusing on premium production.

When it comes to exports, this has been a long-term trend. According to historical data published by the Wine Institute of California, the volume of exports of USA wines has been on the slide for the best part of a decade, with the 2023 total of 218 million litres less than half of USA wine’s export peak of 457.2 million litres in 2015. Even in that context, however, the fall last year was particularly stark: a 25% drop from 2022’s 292.6 million litres, and the lowest annual figure since 1996.

The volume of domestic sales is also trending downwards, albeit much less dramatically: USA wine sales across the 50 states were down by 3% in 2023, the third year in succession of negative growth.

Of course, the USA’s problems were by no means unique last year. According to the OIV, total wine shipments across the globe slumped by 6.3% in 2023. But volume is only half the story. According to the Wine Institute stats, the value of USA exports has remained remarkably resilient, with last year’s drop in total revenue (down by 15.7% to $1.23bn from $1.46bn in 2022) much less drastic than the drop in volume (it’s a similar story domestically), pointing very much towards a less but better trend. As leading industry analyst Rob McMillan,

David Williams takes stock of what's been happening in California, the Pacific North West and beyond, and what it all might mean for the UK's independent merchants

of California’s Silicon Valley Bank, puts it in the 2024 edition of his widely respected and influential State of the Wine Industry report, “the premium wine category is, by any measure, better positioned in the category at the moment”.

McMillan’s statement has been borne out in California, where one of the state’s largest producers, Vintage Wine Estates, filed for bankruptcy earlier this year after accruing more than $300m of debt. The owner of more than 60 wine brands including Girard Winery, Clos Pegase, Swanson Vineyards, BR Cohn, Viansa Sonoma, Cameron Hughes, Windsor Vineyards, Laetitia and Layer Cake had struggled to cope with falling sales in its most important market segment: lowerend wines between $10 and $20.

California: Icing the cake – and filling the doughnut

If life is tough at the bottom of the market, California’s global reputation as a fine-wine producer has never been stronger. The state’s share of the secondary market has risen (as measured on Liv-ex’s trading platform) from less than 1% in the early 2010s to somewhere between 6% and 7% today. And, if the past year has seen buyers concentrate

There are encouraging signs that California wines are offering good value for money at the £15

to £30 mark

their spending more on the three biggest Californian fine-wine names on the Liv-ex 100 (Opus One, Harlan Estate, Screaming Eagle), then that, according to Liv-ex, only reflects a general move in the fine-wine market away from lesser known “riskier” investments towards supposedly safer big names.

Of course, at least since 1976 and the Judgement of Paris, California has had little trouble in persuading a sector of the UK wine market that it’s capable of working at wine’s very highest echelons. Where it has sometimes struggled, at least in the UK, is in the gap between that high-performing top end and its (sometimes bafflingly) popular mass-market brands.

There are encouraging signs that the infamous “doughnut” effect is now much less pronounced, however, with the hole increasingly filled with brands that offer good value for money at the £15 to £30 mark being a consistent feature of tastings organised by The Wine Merchant in the past couple of years.

Wines in that price point from Bogle, Metz Road, Old Stage, Cannonball, Wente, Trefethen, The Specialyst, Scotto, Prototype, Maggio, The Seaglass Wine Company and Klinker Brick were among the stars of our California Collection tasting of more than 100 independents-only California wines in January this year.

And as one of the judges, Sarah Truman from Sarah’s Cellar in Battle, East Sussex, put it: “In terms of price, as soon as you go above £30, it’s a difficult sell because customers will head to the classics they know and love already. But anything below £30 will really fly, and you’ve got a lovely range there: beautiful Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and Zinfandels.”

2023: Trouble-free West Coast vintages

Worries about dwindling sales and overstocked inventories now seem almost trifling compared to what has come to be an existential threat to many California vintners’ livelihoods over the past decade: ever-more severe wildfires.

The mood of sheer relief among the state’s vintners in 2023, after a considerably lower incidence of wildfires, was palpable – as, too, was their delight in what many have called one of the finest vintages in recent memory.

According to the Wine Institute, it was a year in which “plentiful winter rains revitalised the soils and encouraged healthy canopies, while cooler temperatures across California in spring and summer allowed grapes to develop gradually, enjoying extra ripening time.”

The result is a delightful balance of quality and quantity (production was slightly up on the previous three years), with high acidity, low pH and excellent phenolic maturity.

Elsewhere in the USA, Oregon also had some respite from some of the difficulties it has faced in recent vintages (notably the wildfire smoke-tainted 2020, a heat-spikeaffected 2021 and the spring frost-ravaged 2022), with growers delighted by the quality of a vintage that started off cool, stayed warm (but consistently so) during the growing season, and which ended with a relatively short and compressed harvest.

In Washington State, harvested volume was down, which largely reflected the lower demand and overstuffed inventories that have been a feature of the local wine industry as much as anywhere else in the US. But the quality, largely thanks to an extended period of good weather in the autumn after a cool spring and above-average summer temperatures, was, in the words of the Washington Wine Commission, “extremely high”.

Burgundy or bust

Burgundy’s bubble has burst. Or so some indicators at the very top of the market might tell us. Still, the return of that mythical beast, the affordable village (let alone premier or grand cru) Burgundy, remains elusive.

While we wait for the Great Burgundy Price Correction to arrive, however, prices on the Côte d’Or are having the effect of making the USA West Coast’s best Pinots and Chardonnays look increasingly good value – while the quality, too, is increasingly matching the French region.

When it comes to quality-of-wine-perdollar, indeed, Oregon’s small producer scene is hard to match, with highlights from a pair of extended blind tastings of the state’s best Pinots and Chardonnays including Domaine Drouhin Arthur Chardonnay Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley 2020 and Morgen Long Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2019, and Pinots such as Lingua Franca Wines The Plow, Willamette Valley Eola-Amity Hills 2019 and Evening Land Vineyards Summum Seven Springs Estate Willamette Valley Eola-Amity Hills 2022.

Californian contenders, meanwhile, include such Pinot stars as Bien Nacido Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley 2021 and Hirsch San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir, Sonoma County 2021 and immaculate

Chardonnays such as Marimar Acero Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2020 and Chanin Los Alamos Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2021.

Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin and other Eastern promises

Outside the USA itself, it’s understandable that impressions of American wine are almost all shaped by what happens on the Pacific side of the country. After all, California alone accounts for more than 80% of the annual USA harvest, while Washington State has around 5%.

But there is much to excite on the eastern seaboard, and the improvement in quality is being met with greater availability in the UK, too.

Eye-catching eastern producers include the astonishing (and astonishingly priced) cult Cabernet Franc masters Robert and MeiLi Hefner of Ramiiisol in Virgina; Osmote, in the Finger Lakes, who make a more affordable Loire-ishly fresh take on Cabernet Franc as well as an inspired pét nat; and Mazza from Pennsylvania’s Lake Eerie, which this year snapped up a Gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards for The Perfect Rosé, which elevates the French-American hybrid Chambourcin to incisive new levels.

Autumn grapes in Oregon

Producer Profile

Trefethen Family Vineyards Napa, California

Trefethen Family Vineyards is truly a rarity in the Napa Valley: a winery that grows, vinifies and ages all its wines entirely on a property shepherded by a single family.

It’s been this way for generations.

Built in 1886 and lovingly restored by the family, Trefethen’s historic winery building is on the National Register of Historic Places and sits in the centre of the 400-acre Main Ranch. Located between the towns of Napa and Yountville, this valley-floor property forms the heart of the Oak Knoll District.

Notably cooler than up-valley regions like Oakville and Rutherford, its proximity to the San Pablo Bay creates a “sweet spot” where both early-ripening varieties like Riesling and Chardonnay, as well as lateripening varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, can thrive.

Over the past five decades, Trefethen has carefully identified the ground that best suits each variety, taking advantage of an extraordinary diversity of soils, including the Dry Creek alluvial fan, in order to grow each variety to its full potential.

Also in the Oak Knoll District, nestled in the Mayacamas Mountains, is Trefethen’s exceptional Hillspring property. On hillsides surrounding a springfed creek, 40 acres of red Bordeaux varieties take advantage of slightly warmer temperatures and rocky soils to grow powerful, intense fruit that maintains the twin Trefethen trademarks of balance and brightness. This cool-climate freshness and verve is a hallmark of winemaker Bryan Kays, but he also aims to channel the unique character of each vineyard block. “Each of our wines exists to explore the expression of a variety on our estate, or the interplay of varieties in a blend,” he says. “The cellar is a tool to bring out the true character of each grape, while our winemaking amplifies what our vineyard has to say.”

In the UK, Trefethen has a long-standing relationship with importer Daniel Lambert Wines. Chardonnay and Dragon’s Tooth Red Wine Blend are the most popular with indies. The Chardonnay is described as “a Frenchstyle white wine – bright and fresh with crisp acidity”. Dragon’s Tooth, meanwhile, is “a unique Malbec and Petit Verdot-based blend, with a story and label that pays homage to the Trefethen family’s Welsh heritage”.

Trefethen has clearly found a winning formula, but there’s no risk of complacency. According to third-generation Hailey Trefethen, the company conducts vineyard and winemaking trials every year, and is always looking for ways to improve quality and sustainability.

“We have been measuring our CO2 impact from weed control measures in an effort to continue to reduce our carbon footprint and to work towards sequestering more CO2 in our soils,” she says.

“We’ve moved more and more towards native fermentations to the point where nearly all of our red fermentations, as well as a good portion of our whites, are native.

“We have one small-lot wine that is dedicated to experimentation and learning. With this wine, we approach winemaking in a series of three vintages at a time, focused on one variety. Then we shift our focus to another variety or winemaking trial for the next three vintages. This allows us to really take a deep dive into what is possible with our fruit.”

She adds: “We are excited for our future. At our core, we are an estate family-owned winery, but there are elements of our operation that we get to recreate and adjust over time. Experimentation and adaptation are part of our company culture, helping us to make progress in our constant pursuit of quality.”

For more information on Trefethen Family Vineyards wines, visit daniellambert.wine

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CHECKING OUT MORE OF CECCHI

The Wine Merchant was invited back to Italy for a second time to see what the innovative family-owned producer is doing in Umbria and Maremma, as well as its Chianti Classico heartland

we know sagrantino –well, we do now, anyway

Not too many grape varieties have their own dedicated tourist attraction. Maybe there’s a World of Durif somewhere in Australia, or a Reichensteiner Experience just outside Tunbridge Wells. But there’s definitely a museum of Sagrantino, housed in the atmospheric surroundings of Franciscan cellars in Montefalco, Umbria.

The group of independent merchants who visited it in June, just a few months after its inauguration, had little knowledge of the variety before they arrived. We were there as guests of Cecchi, the family-owned wine business based in Chianti Classico, which branched out into Umbria when it acquired Tenuta Alzatura in the late 1990s.

When people are asked to name the most tannic wine they can think of, they usually say Tannat. And yet Sagrantino, a variety that has thrived in Montefalco for centuries, contains far more tannin than either Tannat or indeed Aglianico, and twice as much as you’d expect from a typical Cabernet Sauvignon.

“Sagrantino is regarded as the most ageworthy wine in Italy,” says Alessandro Mariani, Alzatura’s winemaker, as he pours us the 2017 (DOCG rules insist on at least 37 months of ageing). “We have to be careful only to extract the ripe tannins.”

Alzatura puts all its Sagrantino grapes through a two-stage selection process and removes seeds, once a day, as fermentation progresses, to avoid bitterness. Oxygen management is carefully monitored.

The wine we’re tasting weighs in at 16.5% abv and is as bold and intense as you’d imagine. And yet a little double-decanting opens it up and brings out the sweetness of the fruit. (In the museum, which we visit later, we see old paintings that depict Sagrantino being consumed with water.)

That evening, over dinner, we’re treated to the 2010 vintage, as well as a 1998 example labelled Uno.

“I fell in love with Sagrantino on this trip,” says Mihai Stoica of The Wine Cellar, with branches in Woburn, Olney and Stony Stratford. “The 2010 vintage we had with dinner was the absolute winner for me.

Vines at Tenuta Alzatura in Montefalco

“Purity of red and dark fruit, intertwined with the sweet spice flavours from the oak and topped with the tertiary notes developed after the extensive ageing in the bottle … gorgeous! It’s wellstructured and smooth and could rival a lot of more established varietals at a fraction of the price.”

For Mark Wrigglesworth at The Good Wine Shop in south west London, “the Sagrantino was what I would have expected, being a big, bold and rich wine”.

He adds: “However, the aged examples we tried demonstrate that, while the characteristic tannins are apparent early, they do soften with time and produce a wine of complexity and refinement.”

Louise Oliver at Seven Cellars in Brighton is also a Sagrantino convert: “You can really, really appreciate the difference when you have it with food, for instance a hard cheese,” she says. “So that was a fun thing for me to experience and would be fun for me to suggest to customers.

“It is a definite hand-sell wine and if customers open the bottle and try to start drinking it on its own straight away then maybe they won’t experience it in the best way. But if you tell them to open it, leave it and have cheese at hand to drink with friends then they will have a good experience.”

Sagrantino forms 15% of Alzatura’s Montefalco Rosso 2021, as does Merlot, with the remainder accounted for by Sangiovese. This is a clean and elegant style of red, with Sagrantino contributing its trademark kick and just a hint of herbal bitterness.

umbria white is a delight thanks to local trebbiano

Our visit to Alzatura actually begins with an encounter with an important local white grape, Trebbiano Spoletino, which is completely separate from the rather bland Trebbiano and possibly related to Greco. A vigorous, thick-skinned variety, it’s resistant to mildew and ripens even later than the local reds.

“I fell in love with Sagrantino on this trip. The 2010 was the absolute winner for me. Gorgeous”

Mihai

Stoica

It’s the grape responsible for Cortili 2023, a fresh, fragrant and mineral-tinged wine that absolutely hits the spot as our first wine of the trip. Certified organic, it retails for around £14 in the UK. “It’s a lovely wine for that kind of money,” says Mark Wrigglesworth. “It would fly.”

Maja Deric from Loki Wine in Birmingham says: “Central Italy is more known for its red wines, but I was surprised by the whites on this occasion. As a variety, Trebbiano Spoletino stands out the most for me. Tenuta Alzatura Cortili is so fresh and floral with bright acidity and slight minerality on the palate. I think it would be a great alternative for Sauvignon Blanc lovers wanting to try something new.”

We also try the Aria di Casa Montefalco Bianco 2021, fermented in tonneaux and aged in new oak. It’s rich and concentrated but with a lovely seam of minerality. “So delicious,” says Louise Oliver. “That’s my sort of wine.”

L-R: Louise Oliver, Francesco Vitulli of Cecchi, Maja Deric and Mark Wrigglesworth

Maremma: the wild west where vermentino shines

Cecchi is enthusiastic about the potential for Maremma, the coastal region sometimes referred to as Tuscany’s wild west. Unshackled by centuries of rules and tradition, winemakers here are free to experiment and are achieving impressive results with a range of local and international varieties.

Cecchi’s Maremma estate is Val delle Rose, which became part of the family in 1996. It’s a specialist in Vermentino, and the group has the chance to try the entry-level Litorale 2023 and also Cobalto 2021, aged in a mixture of stainless steel, amphora and wood. It’s a beautiful aperitif before our al fresco lunch, with an intriguing note of beeswax.

“Another wine that stood out for me from Val delle Rose is the Rosamante Morellino di Scansano,” says Mihai Stoica, referring to the blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. “It’s bursting with red fruit flavours and has nice acidity thanks to the proximity to the sea and its cool evening breezes. It’s incredible what a difference is achieved by making the most out of your surroundings and working alongside nature. I believe it would be a best-seller for us, especially with the younger generation.”

Mark Wrigglesworth is also a fan, describing it as “a good potential crowd pleaser”, adding that “the Samma Cabernet Franc 2019 also piqued my interest”. This elegant and complex interpretation of the variety is aged in barrique for a year.

The emphasis now is on expressing the character of Sangiovese and the sites it grows in

the new chianti: fresher, fruitier, less muscular

Cecchi’s reputation was forged in Chianti Classico and it’s only right that our visit should conclude back at base at Castellina in Chianti, with a spectacular view of Primo Colle – the “first hill” of this renowned region.

Winemaker Miria Bracali shows us around the cellar. She prefers to vinify every parcel separately, in a range of different-sized vats and barrels, giving her the maximum flexibility for the final blend.

She’s been at Cecchi since 1998 and over that time the house style of Chianti Classico has become less powerful, she says. The emphasis now is on expressing the character of Sangiovese and the sites it grows in. “We’re picking earlier now,” she says. “Consumers are interested in wines that are fresher and less muscular.”

Mihai Stoica says: “The Cecchi Chianti and the Chianti Classico from Villa Cerna would both fit perfectly well on our shelves. They both struck me as vibrant, easy-drinking, fruity yet complex and very approachable.

“If I were to pick a favourite from Villa Cerna it would be the Chianti Classico Riserva. It has a greater concentration, more body, a certain gamey/ meaty profile – which I’m a sucker for; round and smooth tannins, and a fine balance between oak and freshness.”

Winemaker Miria Bracali

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Louise Oliver

Seven Cellars, Brighton

Cecchi is a family-run company with multi-regional estates. They clearly have a focus on premium wines in a mixture of both contemporary and traditional styles. They definitely have the warmhearted approach that is associated with family-run companies. They have some beautiful sites – and some very enjoyable wines.

Mark Wrigglesworth

The Good Wine Shop, south west London

Cecchi is a smart and well-run family company which has grown organically when commercial opportunities for expansion have arisen and this leaves it with a strong stable of estate wines across the classic regions of Tuscany and Umbria. The estate wines offer good quality at price points, which make a strong offering for these classic regions.

Maja Deric

Loki Wine, Birmingham

I love the blend of tradition (Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa) with a more innovative approach and unique varieties (Tenuta Alzatura and Val delle Rose). Listening to their winemakers, I got the impression that they have a very strong and knowledgeable team behind them. The commitment to quality can be tasted across their whole range. They have something for everyone.

Mihai Stoica

The Wine Cellar, Woburn, Olney and Stony Stratford

Thanks to Famiglia Cecchi for funding our visit and for their generous hospitality.

In the UK, the wines are usually shipped direct to merchants, with sales handled by Vinexus. For more information contact Cecchi export direct Francesco Vitulli: fvitulli@cecchi.net or Gaetano Alabiso at Vinexus: gaetano@vinexus.co.uk.

The investments Cecchi has been making in its stateof-the-art winery is impressive, but to me personally it’s all about the people, who are lovely, friendly, and approachable. We’d love to work with them and make their wines more popular in the UK. Extraordinary individuals that make up the exact type of company we love collaborating with.

Vineyards at Villa Cerna at Castellina in Chianti

State-of-the-art winemaking facilities at Val delle Rose in Maremma

Tell us about the the history of Terre de la Custodia.

Our roots trace back to the Middle Ages when Franciscan monks cultivated vineyards in the area surrounding Montefalco. These monks dedicated themselves to nurturing the vines and perfecting the art of winemaking. They recognised the unique terroir of Umbria, characterised by its clayey and calcareous soils, and the ideal microclimate that combines ample sunlight with cool breezes from the nearby Apennine mountains.

The Farchioni family established Terre de la Custodia with a mission to continue and enhance the traditional winemaking practices of the region. The family has been involved in agriculture since 1780, driven by their motto “the future is in our roots”, with a diversified portfolio that includes olive oil production, artisanal beers and milling. Their deep respect for the land and commitment to quality have been the driving forces behind the winery’s success.

Terre de la Custodia combines traditional methods with modern technology to produce wines that truly reflect the essence of Umbria. The winery spans over 180 hectares of vineyards, where indigenous grape varieties such as Sagrantino and Grechetto are cultivated alongside international varieties like Merlot and Chardonnay. Each vineyard is carefully managed to ensure optimal grape quality, with a focus on sustainability and environmental stewardship.

Do family members play an active role in the winemaking process?

Yes, the entire family is involved in every step, from pruning the vineyards to fermentation and bottling. The family gathers together when a wine is ready for the market, tastes the wine first, and provides the initial judgement. If some family members don’t like it, the wine won’t be sold.

How would you describe the

the essence of umbria

The Farchioni family has been embedded in the region’s agriculture for centuries. Its Terre de la Custodia estate channels this know-how into elegant and affordable wines with a true sense of place. Cecilia Farchioni tells us more

winemaking style across the range?

The winemaking style is centred on achieving elegance and purity in the wines. Specifically, this involves careful temperature control during fermentation, rigorous cleanliness, and ageing in carefully selected barrels with light toasting to ensure grape typicity is not lost. Our winemaking approach starts in the vineyard, which is integral to how our final wines taste.

Your area has some incredible local varieties, including Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino. What role do these varieties play in your production?

Sagrantino has a rich history dating back centuries, with some legends suggesting that Franciscan monks cultivated the grape for sacramental purposes. Drinking Sagrantino is not just about enjoying a glass of wine; it’s about connecting with a piece of Italian history and culture. The

Giampaolo and Cecilia Farchioni

region’s rolling hills, diverse microclimates and mineral-rich soils contribute to the unique characteristics of its wines. Sagrantino, being indigenous to Umbria, embodies the essence of the region’s terroir. Compared to more famous Italian wines like Brunello di Montalcino or Barolo, Sagrantino wines often offer comparable quality at a more approachable price point. In recent years, Umbrian wines, particularly those made from Sagrantino, have gained increased recognition on the international stage for their quality and uniqueness. Wineries like Terre de la Custodia have been instrumental in elevating the profile of these wines through sustainable practices and dedication to excellence.

Currently, we don’t make Trebbiano Spoletino as a single variety. Instead, we blend it with Chardonnay for our reserve white wine. This is done to balance the freshness and minerality of Trebbiano Spoletino with the softer, nuttier notes of the Chardonnay, creating a more complex flavour profile.

What other varieties are important to you?

One main variety to not forget it is the indigenous Grechetto, used as a single grape for white wine. To enhance the ability of this variety we decided to produce it in the Montefalco area, because of the rich land which gives us an intense

yellow wine, with golden reflections. Its aromas of yellow fruit and Mediterranean vegetation pave the way for evolved notes of spices and candied citrus fruits. It envelops the palate, yet maintains its characteristic freshness.

Tell us about your approach to organic and biodynamic production.

The name Terre de la Custodia translates as “custodians of the land”, and we take this responsibility very seriously. Our ancestors took pride in their agricultural practices, and we look to maintain an approach of minimal intervention wherever possible. Our goal is to achieve organic certification for all our vineyards within the next five years.

What else do you do to minimise your impact on the planet?

At Terre de la Custodia, sustainability is not just a practice but a fundamental philosophy that guides every aspect of our operations.

We believe that preserving the environment and supporting our local community are essential for producing high-quality wines and ensuring the longevity of our vineyards. The Farchioni family is proud that it was one of the first wineries in Italy to receive the VIVA certification; this measures the sustainability performance of companies and products through the calculation of four indicators, namely air, water, vineyard and territory.

We are implementing advanced irrigation systems that use sensors to monitor soil moisture levels and weather conditions, ensuring that water is used efficiently and responsibly. Additionally, we are exploring rainwater harvesting techniques to reduce our reliance on groundwater sources.

To minimise our carbon footprint, we are investing in energy-efficient equipment and facilities. We plan to install solar panels across our winery and vineyard

buildings to generate clean, renewable energy, aiming to meet at least 50% of our energy needs through solar power by 2029.

We aim to work closely with suppliers who share our commitment to sustainability. This involves auditing our supply chain to ensure that all materials and services are sourced responsibly and ethically.

What plans do you have to increase your UK market presence?

We are looking to increase our distribution primarily within the independent retail trade. With our wines being a fantastic alternative to neighbouring Tuscany’s offerings, we believe it is our role to promote the wines of Umbria, offering consumers the opportunity to discover and enjoy them more readily.

With a commitment to the UK trade and off-trade we hope to help tell the story of Umbria and the history that dictates the quality and unique flavours of Sagrantino, Grechetto and Trebbiano.

Our diverse range of wines from entry to high-end provides UK consumers with the chance to experience high-quality, premium wines without the premium price tag.

Produced in association with Terre de la Custodia For more information visit terredelacustodia.com

A selection of wines from the range are available in the UK via Alivini

The rolling landscape of Umbria

Grechetto is vinified as a single varietal

STOP WHAT YOU’RE DOING AND FOCUS ON THE WINE MERCHANT CROSSWORD!

You're working too hard, and you know it. So why not dust off the "closed due to unforeseen events" sign, put the kettle on and spend some quality time with the puzzle that makes Wordle look like a lot of fuss about nothing?

Take a photo of your completed grid and send it to claire@ winemerchantmag.com. The first correct entry drawn out of the Fez of Destiny will win a bottle of Mad Bird Reposado Malbec, for which we can thank the good people at Barton Brownsdon & Sadler.

The company’s Giles Budibent describes it as a “complex, weighty Malbec from the ambitious Corbeau Winery in eastern Mendoza”.

He adds: “This is the top wine from their Mad Bird range. Lower yields from selected vineyard parcels, as well as time in French and American oak, have created a rich, intense wine with aromas of violet and cherry and bramble fruit on the palate with notes of vanilla and pepper.”

QUIZ TIME

Answers to questions on page 21

1. Discs of natural cork

2. (c) Avonmouth, Bristol

3. Flower days and fruit days

4. A barrique

5. Vermouth

9 Hair cleaner (7)

10 German measles (7)

11 Chatter (7)

12 Anxious (7)

13 Emphasise (9)

15 Astonish (5)

16 Decent (11)

20 First prime minister of India (5)

22 Chinese revolutionary leader (3,3-3)

24 Type of chair (7)

26 Poorly matched (7)

27 Demolish (7)

28 Cooking vessel (7)

August winner

Congratulations to Simon Hill of The Artisan Wine & Spirits Co in Salisbury, who is the winner of the fifth Wine Merchant crossword.

The prize is a bottle of Tres Miradas Alta Cerro Franco 2020, kindly donated by the generous folk at Les Caves de Pyrene

Not a winner this time? Well, Dubliners got rejected 18 times before James Joyce hit the jackpot. So keep going, and keep the faith.

Solution to Crossword No 5

1 Sterile (7)

2 Largest desert (6)

3 On an upper floor (8)

4 Depression from lack of company (10)

5 Make beer or ale (4)

6 Spain and Portugal (6)

7 Last (8)

8 Walked like a duck (7)

14 Put out (10)

16 Practise (8)

17 Wrist band (8)

18 Indefinite person (7)

19 Fishermen (7)

21 Yet to arrive (6)

23 Squalid (6)

25 Supporting ropes (4)

The Summer of Sport is over. Actually I have quite enjoyed the SOS, my personal Funetic Games Legacy being that I have been swimming regularly for the last eight days. One length in every four I try to go a bit faster and make a noise underwater like a car going up through the gears. I learnt this technique in a Ticktick hosted by La Baguette.

It’s nice there’s something on, isn’t there? It’s nice there’s something on and you don’t have to decide on something to watch. It was nice when Scotland won the World Cup, too, although in which Sport I can’t, now, remember.

I do remember Games being what we did in my adolescence, half an hour after we had our Amazing Lunches. (A little shout-out here to the Amazing Dinner

Ladies I have known: Ivy, of course – you have my heart, thanks for the years of illicit mayonnaise. The first nameless Dinner Lady who taught me how to tie my shoelaces as I wept on the school steps. Mrs P, aka The Lady with the Lump (it was the 80s, we took physical deformity resulting from medical malpractice more lightly then), a close family friend who would “sort me out” with “the good shit”

44. MORAG STRONG AND THE LADY WITH THE LUMP

Phoebe Weller of Valhalla’s Goat in Glasgow hated most school sport, but has a plan to make the next Olympics more relatable

aka apple crumble and custard. Institutional puddings! What joy. I don’t understand why Institutions don’t just Pudding. From what I can see in hospitals, the idea really is just to get people to eat things at regular intervals to mark the intervals. No one eats the main. Better just to give a picture of some protein or maybe some bit of fakery shaped in a protein shape and some chips shaped like carrot sticks and some trifle.

I will not forget the time I inadvertently

fed my late hospitalised father a hearing aid battery and his severe displeasure at not being able to eat the two trifles that were presented to him because they couldn’t find his ordered lunch while the battery “worked itself out”. It didn’t.)

Anyway, where was I? Ah yes, I was standing on the imaginatively named Big Field, next to the North Sea, “playing hockey”, watching my legs patching purple and red and yellow and certainly not, as the popular song went, “on fire”. God I hated “playing hockey”, although it was a pretty rare occurrence because I was offgames from 1992-1997 owing to the fact that Morag Strong had sat on my extended thumb and “strained my tendons”. My status as off-games did not cover playing rounders, which I could somehow play with my thumb ostentatiously bandaged and erect. God I loved rounders. Why isn’t rounders in the Olympics?

Yes, we’re here, at my crucial point/ rant – raint? – of the month!

The problem with watching sports is that you get Sports Blind. Like you think you could probably do the sports you’re watching. There is no context. What we need, then, are control athletes from the General Public, competing alongside the Olympians. There could be, say, a concurrent nonOlympics running alongside the Olympics. Maybe in a different city. Maybe in a different city with the same name which is not actually a city, like New York in Lincoln or Moscow in Idaho? This could be Next Gen (not that one) reality TV; following the nonOlympian stories over a year or whatever – over four years! – names picked at random from a gigantic hat with every person in the world in it.

Just a little screen in the bottom of your real athlete screen, like a Zoom call. Context.

Just an idea, LA28, just an idea.

BeBeMe

Portfolio Tasting

BeBeMe hosts its debut portfolio tasting showcasing many winemakers presenting in London for the first time. The business places its focus on familyowned estates which work sustainably, organically and biodynamically and come predominantly from Italy, Spain and France. Highlights include I Giusti and Zanza from Fauglia, Italy; Clos Pachem from Gratallops, Spain; and Château des Bachelards from Fleurie. Contact alexander.hirst@bebeme.co.uk.

Tuesday, October 1

BeBeMe Wine Bar

Mercato Metropolitano 13a North Audley Street

London W1K 6ZA

Thorman Hunt Tasting

The team will showcase 100 premium wines produced by family growers from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Lebanon, California and Argentina.

Highlights will include wines from

Quinta de la Rosa, Lyrarakis, Massaya, Brumont, Veuve Fourny, Paul Prieur, Vieux Telegraph, Bruno Sorg, The Hilt, Talley Wines, Argiano, Durigutti, Le Soula, Jean Luc Jamet, Vincent Girardin and many more.

To register contact katie@ thormanhunt.co.uk.

Tuesday, October 1

Salut Wines 11 Cooper Street Manchester M2 2FW

Wines of Greece Highlights Tasting

This self-pour tasting will focus on the indigenous varieties and show more than 120 wines from 44 producers travelling from regions including Macedonia, Epirus, Central Greece, Peloponnese, Cephalonia, Samos, Santorini, Syros and Crete.

Seven of the wineries attending are

seeking distribution in the UK.

For more information and to register for the tasting, contact info@westburycom. co.uk.

Tuesday, October 1

Serata Hall

207 Old Street London EC1V 9NR

Prosecco DOC

Masterclass

The event will begin with a free-pour tasting at 11.30am and includes a round-table tasting with food pairings at 12.30pm.

Host Neil Phillips will take independent merchants on a journey through the range of Prosecco DOC available across Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia.

This event is specifically for specialist independent wine retailers and is run in partnership with The Wine Merchant magazine.

To request a place contact jo@ bellevillemarketing.com.

Wednesday, October 2

St James’s Room 67 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5ES

Scotland On Tap Tasting

Organised by Bibendum, Tennents and Matthew Clark, the event features around 50 producers from the spirits, beer, cider, wine and low/no alcohol categories.

To register, email Jsalter@bibendumwine.co.uk.

Wednesday, October 2 SWG3

100 Eastvale Place Glasgow G3 8QG

Taste Greek wines on October 1

Lea & Sandeman Four Corners

Tasting

This will be Lea & Sandeman’s first tasting with a focus entirely away from Europe, with wines from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, America and beyond.

Many of the producers will be presenting their wines in person including Nick Mills from Rippon Vineyards and Tim Hillock from Tim Hillock Wines.

Pre-registration is essential. Contact caroline@leaandsandeman.co.uk.

Thursday, October 3

Foyles

107 Charing Cross Road

London WC2H 0DT

Festa Wine

Portfolio Tasting

Festa Wine will be presenting its range of Portuguese wines and showcasing new additions and new vintages. For more information and to register, email andy@festawine.co.uk.

Monday, October 7

Bar Douro

Arch 35b

85b Southwark Bridge Road

London SE1 0NQ

Bordeaux Grands Crus Classés

Tasting

Taste from a range of châteaux presenting a selection of wines from the 2020-2023 vintages.

Producers will include Château BranaireDucru, Château Canon, Château Canon La Gaffelière, Château Gazin, Château Guiraud, Château Léoville Poyferré, Château Montrose, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Rauzan-Ségla and Château Smith Haut Lafitte.

Pre-registration is essential by contacting celine@otaria.co.uk.

Tuesday, October 8

Church House

Dean’s Yard London SW1P 3NZ

Sustainability in Drinks

This new conference and exhibition will bring together producers, suppliers and thought-leaders and provides a resource for products, advice and support for all members of the drinks trade globally.

More details about both events appear on page 15.

Register by emailing hello@ sustainabilityindrinks.com.

Monday, October 14/

Tuesday, October 15

St Mary’s Marylebone York Street

London W1H 1PQ

Rioja Wine UK: 100km of Diversity Tasting

Travel through the three Rioja regions of Alta, Oriental and Alavesa at this walk-around tasting which returns to Edinburgh.

There will be over 200 wines to taste from more than 50 wineries including imported Rioja wines and others seeking representation in the UK.

The selection will range from modern reds to classic Gran Reservas, terroirfocused Viñedo Singular wines to barrelaged whites, and rosados to sparkling Riojas.

Delve deeper into the region at various seminars which will be hosted by Rioja wine specialists from 2pm. Sarah Jane Evans MW will be highlighting the trends in the region at a session particularly aimed at indies, with the opportunity to taste some of the newest styles and categories.

For more information and to register for the tasting, contact rioja@thisisphipps. com.

Tuesday, October 15

The Balmoral Hotel 1 Princes Street

Edinburgh RH2 2EQ

Nick Mills of Rippon Vineyards, with helper

Rioja takes centre stage in Edinburgh on October 15

Pessac-Leognan Masterclass & Tasting

Jacques Lurton, president of the appellation, will host the event accompanied by four producers.

For registration contact louise@phillipshill.co.uk or jo@bellevillemarketing.com.

Monday, October 21

67 Pall Mall

London SW1Y 5ES

Occitanie UK

Portfolio Tasting

The Bureau de l’Occitanie hosts its portfolio tasting aimed at British importers and retailers.

This self-pour tasting will showcase wines which are available via UK importers and distributors and will be presented in distinct sections to provide focused recommendations, such as The 12 Classic Foods of Christmas Feasting.

Email sebastien.duboullay@occitanielondon.com.

Tuesday, October 22

The In & Out (Naval & Military Club)

4 St James’s Square

London SW1Y 4JU

Davy’s Autumn Tasting

The Davy’s team invites fellow indies to join them for a journey through a selection of more than 100 wines aimed at the festive season.

The range includes “best-sellers and timeless classics” and a range of recent additions to the portfolio.

Contact katyas@davy.co.uk.

Tuesday, October 29

Vintners’ Hall

Upper Thames Street

London EC4V 3BG

Wines of Portugal Edinburgh Tasting

This tasting returns to the Scottish capital after many years to welcome 24 producers showing over 250 wines from 11 regions.

Themes will include wines of less than 11.5% abv, low-intervention wines and single-varietal wines from indigenous

grape varieties.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW hosts a Hidden Gems of Portugal masterclass from 12pm to 1pm and the Award-winning Wines of Portugal Challenge 2024 from 3pm to 4pm.

For registration details, contact winesofportugaluk@thewineagency.pt.

Wednesday, October 30

Assembly Rooms

54 George Street

Edinburgh EH2 2LR

Lea & Sandeman

Rhône Tasting

Taste wines from producers covering the length of the Rhône, from Côte-Rôtie to Tavel.

The company promises a focus on valuefor-money credentials of Rhône wines, providing an alternative to the higherpriced rivals from places such as Bordeaux, California and Burgundy.

Wines from the 2023 vintage will also be available to taste.

Email caroline@leaandsandeman.co.uk.

Thursday, October 31

Foyles

107 Charing Cross Road

London WC2H 0DT

Explore the Rhône on October 31

LOUIS LATOUR AGENCIES

12-14 Denman Street London W1D 7HJ

0207 409 7276

enquiries@louislatour.co.uk www.louislatour.co.uk

@louislatouruk

871800

info@hatch.co.uk www.hatchmansfield.com

@hatchmansfield

Discover Vidal-Fleury’s organic bio range

The warm Mediterranean climate, under the influence of the mythic Mistral wind, and a lovely clay-limestone terroir on the terrasses allows Vidal-Fleury to produce its stunning range of Côtes du Rhône wines and launch its new organic range

Vidal-Fleury is the love of the land, of the grapes and of the wine. It has also stood for quality for more than 200 years. Between tradition and a commitment to preserve resources and the environment, Vidal-Fleury’s artisans have worked with conviction to create this unique range.

For more information, please contact sales@louislatour.co.uk or scan the QR code.

The Links, Popham Close Hanworth Middlesex TW13 6JE 020 8744 5550 orders@richmondwineagencies.com

@RichmondWineAG1

@richmondwineagencies

BARRATT SIEGEL

28 Recreation Ground Road Stamford Lincolnshire PE9 1EW 01780 755810

orders@abs.wine www.abs.wine

Come and see the Richmond Wine Agencies Team and buyers at SITT in London and Manchester with lots of great wines to try!

Monday 16th September, 10.30am-5pm

The Royal Horticultural Halls, The Lindley Hall, 80 Vincent Square, London SW1P 2PB MANCHESTER

Wednesday 18th September, 10.30am-5pm etc. venues, 11 Portland Street, Manchester M1 3HU

Please do get in contact if you going and would like to see us:

Tim@richmondwineagencies.com (London) Julia@richmondwineagencies.com (Manchester)

Save the date: Richmond Wine Agencies Autumn tasting

24th September, joint with Thorman Hunt 10am-4pm, The Paintworks, Bristol BS4 3EH

RSVP to tim@richmondwineagencies.com

jeroboams trade

7-9 Elliott’s Place

London N1 8HX

020 7288 8888

sales@jeroboamstrade.co.uk

www.jeroboamstrade.co.uk

@jeroboamstrade

hallgarten wines

Mulberry House

Parkland Square

750 Capability Green

Luton LU1 3LU

01582 722 538

sales@hnwines.co.uk www.hnwines.co.uk

@hnwines

mentzendorff

The Woolyard

52 Bermondsey Street

London SE1 3UD

020 7840 3600

info@mentzendorff.co.uk

www.mentzendorff.co.uk

buckingham schenk

Unit 5, The E Centre

Easthampstead Road

Bracknell RG12 1NF

01753 521336

info@buckingham-schenk.co.uk www.buckingham-schenk.co.uk

@BuckSchenk

@buckinghamschenk

Celebrate Organic September with some of our favourite organic products including:

Anaë Gin, an organic French gin made with 100% certified ingredients consisting 8 botanicals including Maceron seeds, harvested by hand from the Ile de Ré.

Tenuta Fertuna Dropello, a 100% white Sangiovese. The winery was certified organic in 2020 as well as certified as a Sustainable Winery at European Level in 2022.

Fonseca Terra Prima, the first fully certified organic Port was launched in 2006, pioneering the category.

Formoreinformation,pleasecontactyourMentzendorffAccountManager

HATCH by Chris

Hatcher

Award-winning winemaker, Chris Hatcher, presents his new range of Australian wines, HATCH. These elegant and sophisticated wines use the very best regional varietal expressions of fruit giving them an exceptional, unique quality.

The range includes: Clare Valley Watervale Riesling; Eden Valley Flaxman’s Riesling; Barossa St Johns Shiraz; McLaren Vale Vesey Shiraz.

4 Pratt Walk, Lambeth

London SE11 6AR

0207 735 6511

www.thormanhunt.co.uk

@thormanhunt

sales@thormanhunt.co.uk

Please RSVP: vanessa@thormanhunt.co.uk

walker & Wodehouse

109a Regents Park Road

London NW1 8UR

0207 449 1665

orders@walkerwodehousewines.com

www.walkerwodehousewines.com

@WalkerWodehouse

Awards for our Burgundian producers

Congratulations to Estelle Roy of La Chablisienne and Laurent Delaunay (below) of Edouard Delaunay, who took home White Winemaker of the Year and Red Winemaker of the Year, respectively, at the International Wine Challenge.

The two Burgundian producers had many wines within their portfolio win medals at the IWC. La Chablisienne won Chablis Grand Cru, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis trophies, along with five gold medals, and 13 silver and bronze medals at this year’s International Wine Challenge.

Edouard Delaunay was awarded International Pinot Noir Trophy for the 9th consecutive year for his Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2021 which makes Laurent Delaunay the most highly awarded winemaker in the competition. This wine was also awarded the CharmesChambertin Trophy, Burgundy Red Trophy, and French Red Trophy. They also took the trophies for Chambolle-Musigny, Corton and Nuit-St-Georges.

Talk to your account manager today to learn more about these awardwinning wines.

Fells

Fells House, Station Road

Kings Langley WD4 8LH

01442 870 900

For more details about these wines and other wines from our awardwinning portfolio from some of the world’s leading wine producing families contact:

info@fells.co.uk www.fells.co.uk

@FellsWine

je_fells

69 High Street

Banstead SM7 2NL

07798 900127

info@keywinecompany.co.uk

www.keywinecompany.co.uk

delibo wine agencies

The Old Pigsty, Rose Cottage Church Hanborough OX29 8AA 01993 886644

orders@delibo.co.uk www.delibo.co.uk

vintner systems

The computer system for drinks trade wholesalers and importers 16 Station Road Chesham HP5 1DH

sales@vintner.co.uk www.vintner.co.uk

The Horacio Vicente Song by Delibo (to the tune of

“He’s a vigneron and he’s okay He nurtures his land, both night and day He grows great vines, breaks the rules High up in the Aaandeees In summertime he does vintage And matures his wine on lees”

Pioneering, second-generation estate wines from the Vicente Family, high in the Aconcagua Valley, upon their beloved Paedahuen Mountain, where they have sustainably farmed their vines, at altitude, for 50 years.

Selected plot by micro-plot for each varietal, one of the great estates, where terroir is everything. Who else has turned their estate into an archaeological park and national monument?

Contact Delibo for information on the wines, petroglyphs and samples from this game-changing estate.

The Lumberjack Song)

liberty wines

020 7720 5350

order@libertywines.co.uk www.libertywines.co.uk

@liberty_wines

Charles Back: Legend in his own lifetime

Charles Back is a true legend of South African winemaking, bestowed with the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2014 International Wine Challenge, then aged just 58.

Charles is third generation owner of Fairview, one of the country’s oldest properties, having produced its first wine in 1699. Purchased by his grandfather in 1937, Charles began working the farm with his father, Cyril, in 1978, taking over full responsibility in 1995. From the start he wanted to do things differently - introducing Mediterranean grapes such as Viognier, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Petite Sirah to the Cape. Choosing in the 1980s to “go where the terroir is”, Fairview today proudly own their vineyards in Paarl, Darling, Swartland and Stellenbosch and, under Charles’ guidance, have been driven by an ethical philosophy of social development, sustainability and conservation, with all production certified Fairtrade.

Charles was also an early pioneer in the Swartland, realising its viticultural potential and starting Spice Route in 1998. Again, they own all their own vineyards, encompassing 100 hectares in Malmesbury and Darling. In the former, the vines are bush trained and planted on Malmesbury shale and red clay subsoils, giving the Grenache and Mourvèdre grown there an intensity that makes this region so exciting. The signature wine is Chakalaka, a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Petite Sirah and Tannat, while the barrel-fermented Tarragon Old Vine Chenin Blanc hails from a vineyard planted in 1978 and offers superb value.

top selection

23 Cellini Street London SW8 2LF

www.topselection.co.uk info@topselection.co.uk

Contact: Alastair Moss

Telephone: 020 3958 0744

@topselectionwines

@tswine

AUTUMN TASTING

Monday, 23rd September 2024

IET Savoy Place, London WC2R 0BL

Join us to discover the latest additions to our award-winning portfolio. Meet our winemakers and taste over 150 wines.

Register at: events@topselection.co.uk

Registration essential. Trade & Press Only.

Q&A

“Never

drink in a pub with a flat roof”

Chris Wilson

Gutter&Stars urban winery, Cambridge

Chris Wilson began his professional life as a journalist before discovering the unending joys of wine. After a writing career at titles including the Daily Mirror, The Observer and Jockey Slut magazine he returned to study in 2010 to do a winemaking degree at Plumpton College. He founded Cambridge-based urban winery Gutter&Stars in 2020 where he makes single-site still English wines. He continues to write for titles including Decanter and The Buyer.

What’s the first wine you remember drinking?

It has to be Chateau Musar around the Sunday dinner table sometime in the early 1990s, courtesy of my dad. He loved this wine, and was Norwich’s number one Musar evangelist at the time.

What job would you be doing if you weren’t in the wine trade?

Writing about something. My background is in journalism, and it gets in the blood. I’ve always liked the idea of becoming a ski instructor too.

How do you relax?

Wine and song. Cooking and eating with family and friends. Spending time outside with the kids.

The best book you’ve read recently?

Mayflies by Andrew O’Hagan. Also O Brother by John Niven. Both are visceral, heartbreaking, tender and funny.

Give us a TV recommendation.

Slow Horses on Apple TV. Gary Oldman at his finest.

Do you have any sporting loyalties?

Norwich City Football Club. On the ball, City! Shame Delia’s leaving us soon. Plus the English cricket team.

Who’s your favourite music artist?

Some of my favourite bands and artists have featured as Gutter&Stars wine names, or have lyrics on the back labels of my wines. These include Blur, The Stone Roses, Joy Division, Fatboy Slim, Dire Straits, James, Idlewild, Leonard Cohen, Radiohead, The Streets, Paul Simon, LCD

Soundsystem, REM, Arctic Monkeys, David Bowie…

Any superstitions?

Not really a superstition, more a rule of life: never drink in a pub with a flat roof.

Who’s your favourite wine critic?

I used to love the Sediment wine blog. Jamie Goode knows his stuff, and I love Tamlyn Currin’s tasting notes.

What’s your most treasured possession?

Various rare pieces of vinyl, and my grandfather’s silk escape handkerchief from the Second World War. He was a pilot in the South African Air Force and was awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross for his services.

What’s your proudest moment?

Every day, seeing my children grow up and discover stuff. My eldest daughter is the only state school girl in her hockey team, and she’s bossing it despite having fewer opportunities than the other girls to play outside of the club environment. My youngest is getting into Super Furry Animals. I couldn’t ask for more!

What’s your biggest regret?

“Well son, a funny thing about regret is that it’s better to regret something you have done than to regret something that you haven’t done. And by the way, if you see your mom this weekend, will you be sure and tell her satan, satan, satan.” If you know, you know.

Who’s your hero?

My parents did a brilliant job bringing me and my brothers up, making many sacrifices along the way and teaching us about the important things in life; travel, food, music, cricket. That’s hero status for me.

Any hidden talents?

I once competed in the British Freestyle Ski & Snowboard Championships in Laax, Switzerland and walked away with a gold medal in Ski Cross.

What’s your favourite place in the UK? Glastonbury Festival, Thursday evening. The crackle and buzz of anticipation and opportunity, a head full of cider, friends everywhere, plans being made.

If we could grant you one wish … This wish came true on July 4 this year.