The Wine Merchant California Collection 2021 by The Wine Merchant magazine

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION

FIFTY WINES selected by independents • A WINE MERCHANT MAGAZINE SUPPLEMENT • MARCH 2021

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 CALIFORNIA WINES

THE WINE MERCHANT. Published by Graham Holter Ltd in association with the California Wine Institute UK & Ireland www.winemerchantmag.com www.lovecaliforniawines.com Images © California Wine Institute except where credit indicates otherwise CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT | 3

the comforts of california

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he California Collection is a little different this year. The differences started with the way we put the list together. Rather than gathering our judges for a convivial tasting in a west London pub, lockdown rules required us to send our samples to our judges’ homes and workplaces, for them to taste over the course of a week at their own pace. After they’d tasted their samples, the judges then convened over Zoom to explain their decisions, to put the case for wines that others may have overlooked, and to give us some feedback on the general state of play in California based on the wines they’d tasted and their experience over the past year on the shop floor, in both bricks and mortar and virtual incarnations. At first glance, the results our judges collectively produced suggest another difference: there’s a slight shift away from the more unusual varieties that punctuated the 2020 Collection towards what might be described as California’s established strengths. So, while it features a superb example of Fiano and a Graves-like Sauvignon Blanc, and while Riesling performed well, this is a list that is big on the varieties that many of us would immediately associate with California: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, with a smattering of impressive Rhône-ish blends adding seasoning. One theory floated by more than one of our judges about why this might be has to do with a general shift in UK drinking habits towards what might be called comfort drinking: in these most unusual, disorientating times, British wine-drinkers have been reaching for the tried and tested, the things we know will provide reliable pleasure. And guaranteed pleasure is certainly a hallmark of the wines featured in this supplement.

But we shouldn’t confuse that reliability, or the slight reduction in the number of different grape varieties in the list, for homogeneity. Going through this Collection it’s striking how California has carved out a distinctive niche for a variety of very distinct styles. That shouldn’t be surprising in a state that produces enough wine on its own to rank after the classic European trio of France, Italy and Spain as the world’s fourth-largest wine producer. Neither should it be surprising that a state with such an enormous climatic and topographic range – with such diversity of different winemaking terroirs – should be able to provide such a range of different expressions. Still it bears repeating: more than ever, California’s winemakers are expressing those differences in their wines. Today, a Chardonnay from the Santa Maria Valley is not the same as a Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley – and a Cabernet made in Oak Knoll District may be very different from one produced further up the Napa Valley in Rutherford. This is surely a sign of the state’s maturity as well as its versatility. To pick just one contrast: California remains the place to go for outlandishly, lavishly fruited red wines of scale, a talent that is amply represented in this year’s Collection by a fabulous (and stylistically varied) run of Zinfandels. But it’s also the home of some of the world’s most stylish, elegant Pinot Noirs. There is a baseline Californian-ness to wines on every point between these two extremes – a natural generosity that comes through even in the cooler climate offerings. But there’s scope for enormous variation on that theme. This is a California Collection, in other words. But it represents many Californias. CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

OUR JUDGES jake bennett-day vin gusto @ The bull bury st edmunds

sarah truman sarah’s cellar battle

louisa fitzpatrick old chapel cellars truro

bert blaize bottles ‘n’ JARs london

simon Hill The Artisan Wine & Spirits Co salisbury

alexandra edwards york wines Sheriff Hutton

dafydd morris cheers swansea

simon lloyd lloyd’s wines great missenden

graham holter the wine merchant magazine

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

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Trefethen Dry Riesling 2019

Napa Valley Daniel Lambert wines, £19.99 Trefethen Riesling has been widely acclaimed as one of the United States’s best Rieslings ever since it was first produced in 1974. Made in a classic, dry style, it had its fans among the California Collection judges, too. “Pebbly notes, with citrus shards and green apple characters. A really nice structure with a creaminess to round off the sharp angles. Very satisfying on the palate with balance of flavours, body, alcohol, acidity and length. Very correct.”

Château Montelena Riesling 2019 Potter Valley Bancroft Wines, £38.99

One of California’s big historic names is probably best known for the Judgement of Paris-topping Chardonnay that helped put the state on the wine map back in the 1970s. But the estate is equally adept with a range of other varieties, not least Riesling, which is grown in the Potter Valley AVA in northern Mendocino County. “Lively and zippy with exciting petrochemical hints, but mellow and creamy on the finish,” said the judges.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Russian River Valley Maisons Marques et Domaines, £55 This Californian take on the Graves style of oak-influenced Sauvignon Blanc certainly hit one judge’s sweet spot. “Gorgeous. Soft and fruity with some floral notes,” the judge said. “A long finish, each sip making me go back for more. The labelling is unusual and this would sit well on the shelf. Days after sampling this wine I am still thinking of it. For me, this is a sign of excellence.”

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Alma de Cattleya Chardonnay 2018

Donelan Family Vineyards Nancie Chardonnay 2016

Sonoma County Jeroboams trade, £26.95

Sonoma County The Vineyard Cellars, £63

Situated between Russian River and the Sonoma Coast, there’s a strong coastal influence in the vineyards that provide the fruit for this deeply impressive modern Californian Chardonnay. That fruit is aged for 11 months in a mix of neutral oak and stainless steel for an end product that is “very moreish”, according to the judges, “Exuberant without being overblown. A wine made with precision and a lot of love.”

The Donelan Family team describes Nancie as “our take on cool-climate timeless Chardonnay”. The wine is based on fruit from four “compelling” vineyards in Sonoma County, which is aged in barrel (20% new) for 11 months. “Rich golden colour,” said the judges. “Super complex nose: rich, spicy, oak, peach, apricot, tangerine. Very soft on the palate with unctuous fruit flavours. Stunning balance of fruit, spice and acidity with amazing length on the finish.”

Clos du Val Carneros Chardonnay 2018 Napa Valley Boutinot, £34.49

The Clos du Val team sources the Chardonnay grapes for this cuvée from the coolest sections of its Carneros Estate vineyards. And the long, cooler growing season plays a big part in providing a fine acidic backbone for the ripe fruit. Fermented and then aged for 10 months in French barrels, it’s a “great quality wine: subtle oak, good balance and freshness. Its lovely fruit qualities are given the chance to shine.”

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Paul Hobbs Crossbarn Chardonnay 2018 Sonoma Coast Alliance Wine, £29.99

Aged in 90% stainless steel with 10% neutral oak, the “whistle clean” Crossbarn is the first of a pair of California Collection Chardonnays from star winemaker Paul Hobbs. It’s “bright golden and clean”, according to one of our judges. “Very floral on the nose with pronounced ripe pear, anise aromas, a mélange of citrus and tropical fruit on the palate with decent weight but clean with good acidity. Really enjoyable; I would definitely stock it.”

Fess Parker Ashley’s Chardonnay 2017

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2017

Designed to showcase the best Chardonnay fruit in Santa Barbara County, Fess Parker’s blend is 100% barrel fermented and aged for seven months in a mix of new French and Hungarian oak. It’s a wine that both looks the part and delivers in the mouth. “Classy packaging leads you to expect a lot,” the judges said. “Slightly quiet on the nose but lovely rounded ripe palate with a fine line of lemony acidity. Lovely balance and lingering but clean finish.”

Chardonnay number two from Paul Hobbs’s consistently excellent stable is a hymn to the morning fog-cooled, afternoon sun-warmed vineyards of the Russian River Valley. Served in what the judges described as “classy” packaging, it’s a Chardonnay with a “rich golden colour and rich fruit aromas with a definite oak influence. Complex on the palate with tropical fruit, spice, vanilla. Soft texture with good acidity and length. Top dollar but obviously good.”

Santa Rita Hills Amathus, £34.40

Russian River Alliance Wine, £49.99

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Knights Bridge Point de Chevalier Chardonnay 2017

Trefethen Chardonnay 2018 Daniel Lambert Wines, £32.99

The Vineyard Cellars, £55

The second wine from the consistently excellent Trefethen in this year’s Collection is the one with which this historic Napa Valley producer made its name. It’s an expression of the cool-climate Napa enclave of the Oak Knoll District that the judges said was “really delicious. It has good balance and some interesting mineral notes that work well with the fruit. It’s everything you want from a Chardonnay in this part of the world.”

“Like velvet over your tongue,” is how the judges described this top-flight Chardonnay. “Smooth, creamy, buttery with refinement. Long finish. Great packaging,” they added. It’s the work of a family-owned estate that was founded with the explicit ambition of making “world-class” Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon in 2006. The family has 50 acres of vines in the western side of Knights Valley, the warmest AVA in Sonoma County.

Rodney Strong Vineyards Chardonnay 2018 Chalk Hill The Wine Treasury, £27.95

In 1965, the founder of Rodney Strong Vineyards was the first to recognise the character of what went on to become the Chalk Hill AVA in Russian River. Today the AVA’s distinctive “volcanically derived chalky white ash” soils produce a wine with a strong personality that, as one judge put it, “offers a different and unusual Chardonnay experience. Toffee on the nose and toffee sauce in the mouth. A fantastic wine.”

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Wente Single Vineyard Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2018

Giornata Fiano 2019 Paso Robles Boutinot, £24.99

Is the warm, dry climate of north western Paso Robles California’s answer to Campania? The success that Giornata has had with the southern Italian region’s prime white grape, Fiano (and, for that matter, its red counterpart Aglianico) at the very least suggests a certain kinship. “Wow. Lovely, fresh, delicate Fiano,” said the judges. “Floral notes of white blossom and honeysuckle with melon and peach fruit aromas. Really subtle, in an elegant and refined way.”

Arroyo Seco, Monterey Fells, £22.49

A perennial favourite of the UK independent trade, Wente continues to excel and usually – as our judges noted – at distinctly competitive prices. For this Chardonnay, the addition of a tiny percentage of Gewürztraminer put “a wonderful spin” on things. “The genius that put this wine together is my new hero,” said one judge. “It has wonderful floral notes.” Another enjoyed the “rich, tropical fruit on the palate” and the “soft texture and great balance”.

Gnarly Head Viognier 2018 Lodi Bancroft Wines, £18.49

Certain parts of California have proved well suited to Rhône varieties, and with this Viognier the Gnarly Head team has proved that Lodi – justly celebrated for its Zinfandel – is one such place. The judges certainly enjoyed the sheer unoaked exuberance of what they called a “fresh, easygoing, happy wine” with its “typical Viognier aromas on the nose of peach and apricot, pineapple and honeysuckle. Soft mouthfeel with ripe fruit flavours. All in balance and a good example of the variety.”

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“ripe fruit and big flavours have a following.” jake bennett-day vin gusto @ the bull

“entry-level zins will fly off my shelves.”

I’ve always liked California, but it was nice to taste some things from people I’m less familiar with. It was lovely to see lots of new interesting producers making good-value, fresh, high-acidity, drinkable Pinot. Long Barn was a good example. There was some very good Petite Sirah, too; really good value. My customers expect a certain style from California. For example, some of the Chardonnays on this tasting were awesome, and they had that really big, sweet, ripe fruit with oak. I think [those kinds of wines] have got a home and the Californians do what they do really well.

sarah truman sarah’s cellar I am a big Burgundy fan, and I absolutely loved the top-end Chardonnays. I was really impressed by those, just generally, and the Pinot Noirs. I thought the entry-level Zinfandels were absolutely outstanding and they’re going to be on my shelves in the next week, because I know they’ll just fly – they’re just so easy to drink. My favourite wine that I tried out of the whole tasting was the Merry Edwards Russian River Sauvignon Blanc. I loved it and couldn’t stop thinking about it. It was unlike any other Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever tried. I like wines that have something a bit different about them – a wine you can put on the shelf and talk about. . CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2013

Bien Nacido Estate Old Vines Pinot Noir 2018

Anderson Valley Maisons Marques et Domaines, £45

Santa Maria Valley Armit Wines, £75

No surprise that a project run by the peerless Champagne house Louis Roederer should yield such elegant wines as this Pinot Noir, which is sourced from three sites across the Anderson Valley, with soils of light clay mixed with alluvial loam and sand. “Lovely nose with bags of varietal character and quite Burgundy-like,” said the judges. “The palate is similar, soft and silky with dark ripe fruits and lovely balanced oak. Quite dry finish but a delicious food wine.”

The second Bien Nacido member of this year’s Collection is from the oldest part of the estate vineyard, planted in 1973 at an elevation of 600ft, some 16 miles from the Pacific Ocean. That vine age certainly brings an extra dimension to a Pinot that is aged for 16 months in French oak, 45% of which is new. “Concentrated fruit, red raspberries, strawberries and cherries with hints of smoky wood,” said the judges. “Great texture and beautiful finish.”

Bien Nacido Estate The Captain Pinot Noir 2018 Santa Maria Valley Armit Wines, £75

From the highest part of Bien Nacido’s estate vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley AVA in Santa Barbara County, this is one of the Central Coast’s most highly rated Pinot Noirs. It spends around 18 months in French oak, around 50% of which is new. It’s not cheap, but the quality comes through. “Quite ripe cherries and plums and chocolate on the nose,” the judges said. “Lovely and elegant and quite grown up.”

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Hahn Pinot Noir 2018 Monterey County Castelnau Wine Agencies, £21

Made from grapes grown on the gravelly alluvial plain below the Santa Lucia mountains in the Arroyo Seco AVA in Monterey County, this “good all round” Pinot Noir was well liked by the judges for its taste and its presentation. “Great label, which would sit well on the shelf,” the judges said. “Warm berry fruit, floral, oak influences. Silky mouthfeel with ripe wild strawberry fruit. Nicely balanced and structured. Definitely good value for money. Compares very favourably with an entry-level Burgundy.”

Cambria Julia’s Pinot Noir 2015 Santa Maria Valley Fells, £26.99

A “standout” in the flight of Pinot Noir for more than one judge, this single-vineyard red is the work of three female members of Californian winemaking royalty the Jackson Family: Barbara Banke and her daughters, Katie and Julia Jackson. “Raspberries, dark oaky finish, firm but pleasant morello cherries in the mouth … a lovely balanced wine and representative of the style and region,” the judges said. “Excellent value for money.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

J Lohr Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir 2017

Masút Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017

Arroyo Seco, Monterey The Vineyard Cellars, £36

Eagle Peak, Mendocino County New Generation Wines, £35

Fog plays a vital role in moderating the climate in Monterey County, and specifically in the Arroyo Seco AVA where the grapes for this Pinot are sourced. As the judges noted, it helps keep a freshening note of acidity in a wine that is “well balanced and structured. It’s a beautiful bright ruby red in the glass; floral with warm berry fruit and subtle oak influence. Silky mouthfeel, ripe, wild strawberry fruit flavours. Definitely good value for money. And a classy label, too.”

Masút is the work of brothers Ben and Jake Fetzer, scions of the important Mendocino winemaking family, who are dedicated to making seriously fine Pinot Noir from hillside sites. “This is a sophisticated, grown-up wine,” the judges said. “Dark and moody with wonderful complexity. Cherries present on the nose and in the mouth and then evolving to become chocolatey. I love the label, the feel of the bottle. All I need now is a beef Wellington.”

Long Barn Pinot Noir 2018

California Richmond Wine Agencies, £13.95 The quest for decent sub-£15 Pinot is elusive no matter where in the world you’re looking. Hats off to Richmond Wine Agencies, then, for sourcing one that delivers “exactly what you would hope for at this price point. Quite a commercial style label; very pale colour but good varietal character on the nose. Lovely ripe fruit on the palate; quite light but with tons of varietal character. It’s a lovely, fruity little number, with moody, dark fruits. Outstanding value for money. Would sit well on the shop shelf.”

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“incredible pinot and chardonnay at competitive prices.” dafydd morris cheers

“a good use of oak right across the board.” louisa fitzpatrick old chapel cellars The Zinfandel run that I tasted was probably the most impressive. I think I had possibly expected Zins to be the clunkier of the styles – that they would have been the ones that were really high alcohol and, “Hi, we’re Californian, here we are!” But actually I thought those wines, as a group, were a really good representative of the style and the area of production. They were like a team representing what California Zinfandel can be. It’s a huge generalisation but I thought the use of oak across the tasting was really good. I just thought the use of oak especially with Chardonnay was really well done across the board.

I really fell back in love with California doing this tasting. I really enjoyed it. The Sauvignon Blanc by Merry Edwards was incredible. Some of the Pinot Noirs were mindblowing. I tasted two flights of Chardonnay and some of them were just incredible. And then the rest of the wines were all huge – even the Merlots! Loads of alcohol and power. Those are my sorts of wines. I love them. I found some wines where I thought, “Why aren’t I selling that?” including from people I’m already dealing with. I’m looking forward to going out and restocking the shelves. I’m finding it less of a battle to sell high-end California than I ever have. Other prices seem to have crept up while California has stayed stable. I was surprised, unveiling the prices, just how good some of them were. .

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Napa Cellars Pinot Noir 2017

Ironstone Merlot 2019

Napa Valley Lanchester Wines, £27.50

Lodi Walker & Wodehouse, £16

Napa may be better known for its Bordeaux varieties, but it can do Pinot, too, especially in the southern part of the valley, where the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean rolls in from San Pablo Bay. “Smooth, light and easy to drink … this wine made a wonderful first impression, and it’s really punching above its weight,” the judges said. “Fruit and oak but with great balance – everything is working in harmony. Perfect price point for this wine.”

A blend of fruit sourced from several sites across the Lodi AVA, Ironstone Merlot is given a short sojourn in new French oak (two months) to soften and add texture to a wine that is an expression of very pure Merlot fruit. “Nice sweet vanilla flavours and an enticing hint of newly-unwrapped plasticine,” the judges said. “Unmistakable black cherries and a fresh, clean finish. It’s a great wine at a fantastic price point that packs a great punch.”

Nielson Pinot Noir 2015 Santa Maria Valley Boutinot, £29.99

As the producers are proud to point out, the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County is one of California’s coolest spots with a very long growing season. It’s a paradise for Pinot, and this wine provided one judge with “an ‘ooh’ moment. It looks great, smells great and tastes great.” Another judge elaborated: “There are black fruits and smoke on the nose, accented by lilac and pepper notes. The palate is quite full and round with a nice, silky mouthfeel.”

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MOUNTAIN GROWN. HIDDEN IN MENDOCINO. Introducing Masút estate, by California’s Fetzer family.

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Masút wines are available in limited quantities, get in touch today to find out more. 020 7928 7300 www.newgenwines.com

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Rutherford Hill Winery Merlot 2016

Napa Valley Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies £39.95 Founded in 1972, and now part of the Terlato family of brands, Rutherford Hill has a longestablished reputation as one of California’s finest producers of Merlot. In this case a little Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot add nuance to the blend, which, according to the judges, is nonetheless “a quintessential new world Merlot, with rich aromas of plum, blackberry, fig and earth. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, a luscious mouthfeel and a long velvety finish.”

Trefethen Merlot 2018

Napa Valley Daniel Lambert wines, £35.99 A superb performance in this year’s California Collection tasting for this much-loved and respected producer continues with a “benchmark” example of Merlot. It comes from what the producer calls a “sweet spot” for the variety in Napa: the Oak Knoll District between the warmer upper valley, and the cool south. “Lovely balance: fresh plummy-yumminess, black cherries and a bit of spiciness; round and ripe, with freshness on the long finish.”

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Wente Estate Grown Sandstone Merlot 2018

Daou Discovery Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

The Wente family’s hillside vineyard is part of gently sloping formation of hills at the south eastern end of the Livermore Valley, where the days are warm, the nights cool and the sandstone soils well-drained. As the family says, it’s a great place for Merlot. The judges agreed. “Bright garnet red. Classy label. Clean, lively, ripe plum and red berry aromas. Soft texture with warm cherry, redcurrant fruit on the palate. Nice acidity and balance. Great value for money.”

Daniel Daou’s project is based on his own Daou Mountain hillside vineyard in Paso Robles, where he has planted high-quality source material to make some seriously attention-grabbing modern Californian wines. This Paso Cab is the entry point into an impressive range, and won the judges over with its combination of “California opulence and freshness. Dark fruit flavours on the palate, with a stonier feel to the finish. Soft but full-bodied, and very good length.”

Livermore Valley Fells, £16.49

Paso Robles Carson & Carnevale, £26.99

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Napa Valley Boutinot, £39.99

The flagship Cabernet from one of Napa’s most celebrated estates has some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the blend, and is aged for 20 months in French and Hungarian oak (65% new). It all adds up to a “a wine that is classic, more Bordeaux, in style”, the judges said. “There’s richness but a streak of leanness, plenty of cassis, spice and cedar. Full-bodied and very high alcohol but all in balance. Great wine.”

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Revana Terroir Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Napa Valley The Vineyard Cellars, £92

Two of Napa Valley’s most respected wine pros – vineyard manager Jim Barbour and winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown – are responsible for ensuring this classy Cabernet sings of its origins. The pair employ a range of sensitive techniques to produce a wine of the “deepest colour, a really intense nose with a lot going on. Bags of ripe fruit, it’s a powerful, intense wine but welcoming and inviting, warm and friendly. Lovely hints of cedar and herbs on the finish. Just delicious.”

Honig Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Napa Valley The Vineyard Cellars, £50

Sourced from Honig’s sustainably farmed home vineyard in Rutherford and from partner vineyards in Napa, this meticulously vinified blend of 86% Cabernet with Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, is aged for 18 months in French and American oak. “Lovely nose with cassis and blackcurrant leaf, hints of thyme and rosemary and a touch of pencil,” the judges said. “Really ripe fruit but not enough to overpower the other elements. Big, round, voluptuous palate with a dollop of vanilla.”

Rutherford Hill Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Napa Valley Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies, £56.20 Rutherford Hill Winery may have a justified reputation for Merlot. But it is also behind some of California’s best versions of Cabernet Sauvignon, with this estate bottling among them. “It’s an elegant Napa Cab in very smart packaging,” the judges said. “Inviting aroma of sweet spice, Parma violet and blackberry fruit. Smooth palate and ripe fine-grained tannins.” CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

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“the wines were accessible in terms of style and price.” alexandra edwards york wines

“cabs could stand proudly alongside bordeaux.”

Coming at it from the perspective of our main customer base, who are from Yorkshire, and therefore price sensitive and interested in value for money, I had some preconceptions that the wines would be a little bit expensive and inaccessible style- wise. But I’ve been pleasantly surprised: in all the flights we tried there were wines that were accessible in style and price. That was really positive. We’ll definitely be looking to stock some. It was fantastic lining up the different flights and seeing the presentation, too. There were some incredible, very different and attractive labels.

simon hill the artisan wine & spirits co Wines that had more elegance and style and not necessarily the most fruit, tannin and body scored highest with us. Some of the wines were fantastic. The Revana Terroir series, Trefethen and Rutherford Hill Cabernets were outstanding and could stand proudly alongside almost anything from Bordeaux – and Trefethen and Rutherford Hill at £50 are actually pretty good value, when you think that something like Poujeaux, though one of my faves, is over £50 retail. Overall, we were pleasantly surprised by the quality. Some of the wineries – DAOU, Masút and Fess Parker, who we’d never come across, were great discoveries and not huge wallet busters. CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

St Supéry Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Blackbird Vineyards Arise Napa Red 2016

Like all the wines from this classical Napa producer, all the fruit for this Cabernet is sourced from St Supéry’s own vineyards in the Rutherford district of Napa. In this case, the wine is given 20 months in French oak (32% new) before bottling. “Medium garnet in colour, intense nose; black fruits, floral edge and toasty oak,” the judges said. “Sweet cassis with oak influences on the palate. Soft texture. Medium to full bodied with a nice acidity and dry finish. Very good value for money and a nice label too.”

A blend of 55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot in this vintage, Blackbird’s Arise is aged for 21 months in a 50/50 mix of new and seasoned oak. “Rich and indulgent, with great structure,” said the judges. “Red cherry, leather and vanilla on the nose and lovely balance of dark fruits with earthy, tertiary flavours. Complex but well balanced, although slightly let down by a classic but not entirely inspiring label.”

Napa Valley Jeroboams trade, £39.95

Napa Valley The Wine Treasury, £54

Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Napa Valley Daniel Lambert Wines, £49.99

The standout producer in this year’s Collection in terms of the number of wines in the final 50 comes up with the goods again with a classic Napa Valley Cabernet. “Beautiful opulent fruit on the nose, which is filled with black cherry and sweet spice aromas,” the judges said. “The palate is very precise with a perfect balance of fruit intensity, tannin, body, alcohol and finish. There is definite potential to age here, to soften the tannins and mellow a bit.”

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Fess Parker The Big Easy Red Blend 2016 Santa Barbara County Amathus, £32.55

Although this blend of 57% Syrah, 24% Petite Sirah and 19% Grenache has something of the Rhône in its inspiration, the finished wine is unashamedly, uninhibitedly Californian in style. And for our judges that’s no bad thing. Quite the reverse, in fact: “A big, powerful wine with notes of roasting meat, chocolate, baking spices. A rich, intense wine by definition, but tannins and subtle oak do a great job of softening the juice and extending the finish.”

Daou Pessimist Red Blend 2018 Paso Robles Carson & Carnevale, £25.99

Another entry for this impressive FrancoCalifornian producer, this time a very Californian blend with “the Petite Sirah giving the bright, fresh acidity balanced with the Zinfandel and Syrah to give more roundness and fruit,” the judges said. “Really intense colour, lovely cassis and slightly herbal nose. Super ripe sweet fruit on the palate but balanced by the herbal, liquorice characters. Delicious now and intriguing to see how it will age. Great price point, too.”

Rutherford Hill Winery Barrel Select 2016

Napa Valley Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies £39.50 Merlot leads the way with 70% of the blend in another impressive selection from Rutherford Hill, with Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot each taking a three-way split of the balance. Aged for 18 months in French oak, the wine is “luscious, bold and spicy – recognisably Californian in style. The oak isn’t exactly subtle but in this case, that’s all part of the appeal.” CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

Orin Swift Abstract 2019

The Big Top Old Vine Zinfandel 2018

As the Rhône Rangers proved back in the 1980s, Rhône varieties can thrive in the warmer parts of California. Certainly, the blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah, aged for eight months in French and American oak, works a treat here. “Very youthful fresh, crunchy fruit on the nose and incredibly intense ripe youthful palate. Almost sweet, but lushly attractive – it will certainly have a place with fans of big styles.”

Is there an independent out there who isn’t looking for wines they can sell under a tenner but which don’t stint on quality? Well, according to our judges, look no further. “The Big Top won’t win any awards for complexity, but this simple wine is packed full of sweet, juciy red fruits,” they said. “Great entry-level Zinfandel. Half the price of some of the others and just as good. Smooth, scrummy blackcurrants. Soft, round and very approachable. A great fit for the UK market.”

California E&J Gallo, £50

Lodi Boutinot, £8.99

Trefethen Dragon’s Tooth 2018 Napa Valley Daniel Lambert wines, £49.99

As well as excelling with various single-varietal wines, Trefethen proves itself a master of the blend here, with 54% Malbec matched with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot. “This is a big wine, but really well made: a textured and creamy palate, luxurious coffee and cocoa-like notes in contrast to the tart red fruits. Big tannins, but well handled and just as well integrated as the toasty oak.” (The name and label, by the way, are a nod to the winery’s Welsh roots.)

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Cline Cellars Live Oak Zinfandel 2018

Clos du Val Zinfandel 2018

Cline Cellars is something of a Zin specialist, with this cuvée being one of four single-vineyard offerings the Lodi-based producer makes each vintage. “Big sweet fruits and a clear use of oak, giving a ginger/cinnamon spice to the nose,” said the judges. “The palate offers a bit more complexity with muted earthy, roasty, dried fig-like tones. Good acidity to carry all of the bold fruit flavours. A big wine – maybe a little chewy and chunky – but serve it with a steak and you’d be very happy.”

Zinfandel has been a key part of leading Napa producer Clos du Val’s portfolio since the winery’s inception back in 1972. Almost 50 years on, the house style is “quite grown up”, said the judges. “The fruit is ripe – clear cranberry, a bit jammy and sweet red berries. Whiffs of tobacco, wet leaf and cocoa. A bit rotundoney with spicy, herby notes, especially black pepper. A lovely balance of sweet and savoury characteristics. Could almost be mistaken for old world if it wasn’t for that sweet fruit and wood.”

Contra Costa Country Boutinot, £26.99

California Boutinot, £30.49

Cline Cellars Old Vine Zinfandel 2018 Lodi Boutinot, £13.49

Another impressive Zin from Lodi-based specialist in the variety, Cline Cellars – and, the judges were happy to see, at a very competitive price to boot. “This is just excellent value for money,” they said. “Lovely rich, red berry and plummy fruit, soft mouth feel with a warm spicy finish. It retains some freshness with wellintegrated tannins. The wonderful fruit character and the sheer depth belie the modest price. It all adds up to make this a must-stock wine.”

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CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2018 Lodi Bancroft, £15.95

The Gnarly Head operation started in 2004 on a mission to make great Zinfandel from some of the oldest vines in California in the Mokelumne River district of Lodi. Those vines – which are up to 80 years old – still provide the backbone for the operation and indeed this wine, which wowed the judges with its “balanced intensity”. “Meaty, rich and exciting. Fantastic wine at a perfect price point. Ripe fruits, smooth and luscious.”

j LOHR Cypress Vineyards Zinfandel 2018 Central Coast The Vineyard Cellars, £17.50

More than five decades since it was founded by California wine legend Jerry Lohr, the eponymous winery remains in family hands, and is still striking the perfect balance between quality and price. “This Zinfandel felt delightfully fresh, juicy and bright,” the judges said. “Lots of red fruit flavours – mainly crushed raspberry, cranberry and strawberry. Candied fruits too. Fruit forward, soft tannins and a supple finish.”

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Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel 2018 Lodi Walker & Wodehouse, £16

Another tribute to the quality of Zinfandel grapes grown in Lodi (home of 40% of California’s Zin vines) and specifically the old vines (45+ years old in this case) of the Mokelumne River, and one that impressed the judges as a whole package (flavour, presentation and price). “Classic label. Fresh red fruits with vanilla aromas. Soft red fruits with blackcurrants backing it up. A touch of spice with a soft mouth feel. Very, very good value for money.”

Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel 2016 Sonoma County Liberty Wines, £51.99

Established in Sonoma County in 1895, Seghesio has played a vital role in the development of Californian wine in general – and Zinfandel in particular, and the name continues to resonate with Zin lovers all over the world some 125 years on. “Morello cherry and fig aroma, butter pastry, mocha chocolate. The palate is full but velvety smooth with integrated flavours, body, tannins and alcohol,” the judges said. “Very good. It’s a ‘grand vin’ that manages to carry its high alcohol content well, with black pepper and spice and a rich, intense flavour.”

CALIFORNIA COLLECTION 2021 THE WINE MERCHANT |

CALIFORNIA WINES

Published by Graham Holter Ltd in association with the California Wine Institute UK & Ireland www.winemerchantmag.com www.lovecaliforniawines.com