The Wine Merchant Cava Supplement 2021 by The Wine Merchant magazine

Cava 2021

In the summer of 2021 The Wine Merchant magazine approached a number of independent wine specialists in the UK and invited them to taste a selection of Cavas – and to feed back their thoughts on each. The wines they were appraising came from a full spectrum of styles and price points. Separately, we also tasted a selection of Cavas that are currently unrepresented in the UK but whose producers would like to work with independent importers. These appear on pages 8 to 21. This supplement summarises the Cavas that we enjoyed the most – admittedly representing just a small cross-section of a broad and diverse category. A multilayered category that has the versatility to suit almost every occasion and every type of cuisine. We hope it inspires independents to seek out some of these wines – and to take a fresh look at this vibrant and sometimes overlooked market segment. Our Tasters Christina Albon, Tanners, Shrewsbury; Chris and Gosia Bailey, Mr & Mrs Fine Wine, Southwell; Calum Chance, Tivoli Wines, Cheltenham; Jane Dowler, Evuna, Manchester; Paul Morgan, Fourth & Church, Hove; Shumana Palit, Ultracomida, Aberystwyth; David Williams and Graham Holter, The Wine Merchant magazine.

A diverse and distinctive category Wine culture thrives on comparison. Not just in the competitive sense of “is this one better than that

one”? But also in the way we join the dots between bottles as our tastes develop: if you liked this, you’ll love that, as the popular sales patter goes. Sometimes, however, a wine style can get saddled with a comparison that does it few favours. Take sparkling wine, for example. For years, the quality of all wines with bubbles was measured by how closely they resembled the wines of a certain northern French region. Understandable maybe. But this narrow focus provided a great disservice to consumers, reducing all conversation about other styles and approaches to little more than crude calculations of price. When it came to absolute quality, no other sparkling wine could ever match the supposed Real Thing. What the best wines in this tasting – those featured over the next few pages – proved decisively, however, is something that aficionados of Spain’s greatest sparkling wines have long known: that Cava is not some southern European facsimile. It’s its own Real Thing: a traditional-method sparkling wine culture that is proudly Mediterranean, with wines that are profoundly expressive of the places from which they come. The distinctiveness begins with Cava’s unique selection of grape varieties. The traditional white triumvirate – Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo – each bring something different to the mix: Macabeo a floral lightness of touch; Parellada some mid-palate fleshiness; Xarel·lo, chalky texture and luminous acidity. There’s no shortage of strong personality in that trio, but the combination dovetails nicely in blends with Chardonnay. Similarly, the rosés and blanc de noirs are nothing if not distinctive: with Garnacha, Monastrell, Trepat and Pinot Noir all permitted, it’s a combination that tells its own story of Cava’s location and history. This palette of varietal options is one of the reasons why there’s a Cava style to match beautifully with all types of cuisine. The winemaking has its own culture, its own ways, philosophies, or approaches. There’s a real mastery of the ageing process in Cava, for example, with many of the most impressive wines in this supplement spending several years on the lees, bringing a savoury and textural complexity, but never at the expense of an immediate – and compulsive – drinkability. Cava de Guarda Superior Reserva and Gran Reserva are but one part of the mix, since there is great stylistic diversity in Cava. There are youthful, dry, and almost delicately aromatic brut natures and rich, deep, intensely dark-fruited rosés. There are wines that work best as aperitifs, and many more that are superbly gastronomic, at their best when complementing a meal. Crucially, however, all are recognisable as that great Mediterranean wine style, Cava. A unique, gastronomic and hedonistic wine that really doesn’t need to be compared to anything else.

wine merchant cava supplement

2021

wine merchant cava supplement

2021

Cava in numbers Cava’s history dates back to 1872 when the traditional method of production, with secondary fermentation in the bottle, first took place in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. Cava exports more wine than any other Spanish DO. More than 70% of sales take place on the international market. Cava production accounts for more than 38,000 hectares of vineyards, farmed by 6,291 growers.

The main Cava grapes Macabeo Large, compact bunches, very thin skins. Produces refined, elegant, well-balanced wines with light floral notes. Xarel·lo Xarel·lo is one of the varieties most closely associated with Cava. A grape that provides structure and body to the wines, together with good acidity and a distinctive flavour. Parellada With medium acidity, the variety contributes delicacy, freshness, and personality to the Cava, as well as offering good ageing potential.

wine merchant cava supplement

2021

All change for Cava labels The way in which Cava is labelled is changing from January 1 next year, as a result of an ambitious segmentation and zoning project from the Cava DO. Cavas aged for more than nine months will now be called Cava de Guarda, while those aged for more than 18 months will be called Cava de Guarda Superior. The new regulations mean that the production of Cava de Guarda Superior, the longageing category that includes Cava Reserva (minimum 18 months of ageing), Gran Reserva (minimum 30 months of ageing) and Cava de Paraje Calificado (from a special plot and with a minimum of 36 months of ageing), will be 100% organic by 2025. Producers will also be allowed to highlight the region of origin on their labels. These include Comtats de Barcelona, which encompasses the Cavas of the region of Catalonia (with sub-zones Valls d’Anoia-Foix; Serra de Mar; Conca del Gaia; Serra de Prades and Pla de Ponent), Ebro Valley (with sub-zones Alto Ebro and Valle del Cierzo), Viñedos de Almendralejo, and Levante.

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Bodegas Hispano Suizas Tantum Ergo Vintage Brut Nature Cava 2017

12% abv

Bodegas Hispano Suizas Tantum Ergo Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Nature NV

12% abv

Named for the Spanish-Swiss origins of the three partners who founded the business in 2006, Hispano Suizas has 61ha of vines in Utiel-Requena, near Valencia, where the team makes some seriously impressive still and sparkling wines. The Vintage wine, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, is superbly rich, deeply flavoured yet balanced, with layers of ripe stone fruit and buttery apple pie. A class act, with refined mousse and excellent length; a Cava to enjoy with food.

Another gastronomic cuvée with the style and texture to work with any number of Mediterranean fish and seafood dishes. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are vinified separately with fermentation in 400-litre new American oak barrels, before ageing for a minimum of 22 months on the lees. Dry, pleasingly chalky texture; tightly focused and refreshing, with notes of crisp green apple and almonds. Great length, stylish, and mouthwatering.

bodegashispanosuizas.com

wine merchant cava supplement

2021

wine merchant cava supplement

2021

Bodegas Hispano Suizas Tantum Ergo Pinot Noir

Avinyó Gran Reserva La Selecció La Ticota

Brut Nature NV

2014 11% abv

12% abv

This 100% Pinot Noir blanc de noir is the product of some very refined winemaking and high-quality estategrown fruit from the company’s vineyards in UtielRequena. We loved the depth of flavour here: delightful wild strawberry and cherry with a hint of bakewell pie marzipan pastry. There’s the estate’s characteristic chalky, dry texture coming through on the palate, superb length and some grip making this another natural partner for richer food such as tuna steaks.

Set right in the heart of Alt Penedès, Avinyó is a small family producer with some exceptional, mature vineyards providing the fruit for its range of Cavas and still wines. The Xarel·lo for this cuvée comes from a single vineyard, La Ticota, planted by the current owners’ grandfather in 1940. With a minimum of 60 months ageing on lees, it’s a a rich, complex, mature wine with some tangy acidity beneath rich patisserie and poached pear, and great length and intensity.

bodegashispanosuizas.com

avinyo.com

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Bolet Pinot Noir Brut Reserva

Guilera Musivari 11.5% abv

Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2007 12% abv

Everything’s organic in the Bolet vineyards, and has been since the eponymous family earned its accreditation in 2004. They’ve been involved in wine production for seven generations, producing their first Cava in 1982, and they now have almost 27ha planted to vines in three sites, each at a different altitude, in Castellví de la Marca. This 100% Pinot Noir is aged for a minimum of 24 months on its lees, yielding a crisp red apple and cherry-scented pink fizz that has lots of tang and bite and delivers lots of fun. Simple, direct, full flavoured and very easy to drink.

Cava Guilera is a small family firm specialising in longaged Cavas: the whole range is either Reserva or, as in this case, Gran Reserva, with ageing ranging between 24 months to 13 years. A blend of the traditional Cava trio of Xarel·lo, Macabeo and Parellada from the 2007 vintage, Musivari is the family’s flagship cuvée, aged for 140 months before release, with zero dosage. A truly sophisticated sparkling wine that shows real mastery of the ageing process. Harmonious and silky in texture, with creamy notes giving way to honey, spice, dried fruit and hazelnut and a long, luminously bright finish.

cavasbolet.com

cavaguilera.com

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Guilera Agosarat

Guilera Green Xarel·la

Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2006 12% abv

Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2012 12% abv

A masterly long-aged Cava with 160 months of bottle ageing before release. Xarel·lo, Macabeo and Parellada form the blend, and the sheer complexity makes this a wine for drinking with dinner – or after – rather than as a quick-sipped aperitif. There’s so much going on here: honey, cream and nuts plus a kernel of bright youthful white peach and a long, tapering finish that brings with it Amontillado Sherry flavours. Lovely silky texture. Intense.

In any other portfolio, this 100% Xarel·lo would be one of the older wines. For Guilera, the 80-month ageing makes it something of a youngster. And there’s a lively freshness here that belies the wine’s age. A hymn to Xarel·lo that is in perfect harmony. It has that Mediterranean hillside herbiness – wild thyme-scented honey, fennel – an infusion that has something of vermouth to it, but with a bright streak of green apple acidity and chalkiness. Immaculate and complex.

cavaguilera.com

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Naveran Perles Roses Cuvée Antonia 2018

Maria Rigol Ordi Mil·lenni Reserva Brut Nature 2017 11.5% abv

12.5% abv

Housed in an 11th century estate, Naveran’s modern history as a Cava producer begins in 1984, led by Michel Gilleron Parellada de Naveran, who was inspired to make the most of his extensive knowledge of the Penedès. The estate now extends to 110ha of organic vineyards, and is run with comprehensive “zero km” philosophy. This 100% Pinot Noir rosé offers expressive cherry fruit on the nose, an elegant, slinky palate and a subtly bittersweet bite that makes it so moreish.

Maria Rigol Ordi returned to the family Cava-making tradition with the help of son Francesc Manobens Rigol in the early 1980s. The family has developed a reputation for traditional wines based on long ageing with real finesse. This blend of 45% Xarel·lo, 30% Macabeo, 10% Parellada and 15% Chardonnay impressed with its evocative, fragrant character: violets and orange blossom, pithy citrus and juicy white peach, with a savoury edge to the finish.

naveran.com

mariarigolordi.com

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Bravo, brut natures Christina Albon, Tanners Overall I thought the Cavas I tried were really good quality. The brut natures I was really impressed with. You didn’t miss the residual sugar – they weren’t austere in any way. There was a ripeness and a roundness to them that I thought was really enjoyable.

Insane value for money Calum Chance, Tivoli Wines We have a Cava that we sell a lot of at £11.99. It’s a brut nature. The fact that it is zero dosage makes it even more appealing. We’ve had a lot of success with that. David [Dodd, Tivoli’s owner] and I are big believers in high-end Cava with longer ageing. We tried a lot of things at Viñateros in 2020 and some of them are outstanding – and insane value for what they are.

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Maria Rigol Ordi Gran Reserva 2014

Cuscó Berga 11.5% abv

Brut Nature Premium Reserva 11.5% abv

A blend of 40% Xarel·lo, 35% Macabeo and 25% Parellada that is aged for a minimum of 48 months before disgorgement (the bottle we tasted was disgorged on April 12, 2020), this is a serious Cava that is an absolute pleasure to drink. On the nose, it’s like walking into a café-deli: there are notes of fresh fruit (especially apricots) and ground coffee, baked bread and butter; the palate, meanwhile, is filled with smooth and silky bubbles, dried herbs and succulent stone fruit. Beautifully done.

With a modern cellar built into the limestone rock of the Garraf Massif at the gateway to the eponymous national park, Cuscó Berga is a family operation run by Josep Cuscó Berga and his sons. The cellar is overseen by Joan Cuscó, who learned his trade in Champagne and Priorat and makes 100% organic wines from the family’s vines in the eastern Penedès. This Macabeo 20%, Xarel·lo 60%, Parellada 20% cuvée is a lovely, lively little wine. It’s full of energy and freshness, dry and chalky but with a nice purity of lemony fruit and acidity.

mariarigolordi.com

cuscoberga.com

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2021

Muscàndia

Mastinell Heretat

Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2016 11.5% abv

Brut Real Gran Reserva 2011 12.5% abv

Brothers Albert and Eduard Viader began their mission to make “auteur’s Cava” when they were just 27 and 21 years old respectively back in 2009. A little over a decade on, and the pair are making a range of well-regarded Cavas from their base in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, with this sumptuous Gran Reserva a particular standout. Nicely rounded in the mouth with really good complexity, with lovely toasty characters with a touch of lime cordial and a ripe peachy-apricot note weaving through the palate.

Based in the same property as a five-star boutique hotel (a daring modernist honeycomb construction near Vilafranca del Penedès depicted on the company’s back labels), Mastinell’s Cavas are appropriately luxurious. This Gran Reserva is a regal treat that uses fruit sourced from vineyards that are more than 50 years old, and which has been given plenty of time to develop in the cellar. Sleek, smooth and creamy in feel, with lots of pear and apple fruit and plenty of life and freshness. There’s also an appealing sprinkling of baking spice and honey on the finish.

muscandia.com

mastinell.com

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2021

We try to always offer Cava by the glass Paul Morgan, Fourth & Church I love Cava. I love the price range and the quality level at most price points. We try to always have one by the glass on our list. Once it’s open and you get people to try it, they are pretty keen. We’ve got a varied team here with varied palates and experiences. We tasted the flight together and they were nice wines. At the entry-level price points you can get nice crisp apple and a little bit of minerality and a tiny bit of biscuit. That’s what a lot of people want – even if they don’t know that’s what they want. I think Cava can offer that, even at the lower price points.

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2021

Mastinell Heretat Carpe Diem Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2014 12.5% abv

Rovellats Masia Segle XV Gran Reserva 2011

11.5% abv

Another superbly appointed Gran Reserva, only made in the best vintages, making it a kind of Catalan prestige cuvée. It’s based on a blend of Macabeo, Xarel·lo, Parellada and Chardonnay, with ageing depending on the precise character of the wine produced each vintage. Rich, engaging and complex; there’s an underlying sensual feel. The wine is mouthfilling and weighty, with hints of mandarin and lime.

The name comes from the 15th-century Penedès farmhouse at the heart of the Rovellats estate with its deep, cool cellar perfect for ageing Cava. It’s home to a producer with three generations of experience and with extensive vineyard holdings of more than 140ha to play with. Both assets are in evidence in this tiny-production tête de cuvee (just 6,048 bottles were produced), a blend of the traditional Cava trio with Chardonnay that has had 84 months of ageing, and which is a rich and savoury experience: there’s mushroom and coffee and marzipan, but it’s still freshly fruited and fleet of foot.

mastinell.com

cavasrovellats.com

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2021

Montesquius Brut Nature Reserva 2018

Montesquius Naturelovers 11.5% abv

Brut Reserva 2015

11.5% abv

Another producer with deep roots in both the Penedès region and in Cava-making, the Santacana family has been making Cava for more than 100 years. There’s a commitment to the local land that translates into sustainable vineyard practices – and a respect for local winemaking traditions that translates into Cavas that are full of character. The first of two selections here, this Brut Nature Reserva, produced from organic viticulture, is immensely accessible and attractive. There’s a fluent drinkability that will have wide appeal: fresh apple juiciness and mandarin citrus tang.

The second wine from Montesquius in this selection is part of this experienced producer’s Naturelovers brand – a brand name that refers to the Santacana family’s commitment to sustainable production methods, which includes the protection of local flora and fauna. It’s a blend of Xarel·lo 50%, Macabeo 35% and Parellada 15% that is aged for a minimum of 16 months. Superbright citrus and stone fruit comes singing through here. But there’s also an almost flinty-mineral character, a touch of white Burgundy-esque reduction that would make this a great white meat partner.

montesquius.com

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2021

Celler Vell Reserva Ecològic 2018

Ramon Canals Marta 11.5% abv

Reserva Brut 2017

11.5% abv

From a specialist Cava producer dedicated to traditional methods and working from its own vines in and around its winery in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, the Reserva Ecològic is a blend of Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada from organically certified sources. It offers a very attractive introduction to the charms of traditional Cava. It’s a style that has plenty of fruit, primarily lime, lemon and grapefruit, with a drizzle of honey on toast and that sour tang that makes you come back for more. The dosage helps soften and that hint of sweetness makes this a good match for spicy Vietnamese or Thai food.

The Canals family has been involved in Cava production in the village of Castellví de Rosanes in the Penedès since the early 20th century. Today brother and sister team Ramon and Marta Canals combine Ramon’s winemaking experience (he’s made wine all over the world from Champagne to Yarra to Napa and England) and Marta’s business nous to produce a wide range of Cavas and still wines. Their Reserva, a blend of Xarel·lo, Macabeo and Parellada, impressed with its fine-textured bubbles and classic Cava character of bright apple and stone fruit, and marzipan and anisscented patisserie.

cellervell.com

ramoncanals.com

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Maset L’Avi Pau Gran Reserva 2017

Giró del Gorner 11.5% abv

Brut Nature Reserva

12% abv

The family behind Maset has a two-century history of winemaking in the Penedès, with this cuvée paying tribute to founding member Pau Massana, who was born in 1777 on the Maset del Lléo farm. It’s a blend of the traditional trio Xarel·lo, Macabeo and Parellada with a guest appearance from Chardonnay that delivers a big hit of bright fresh fruit, both tropical and citrus. It’s a vibrant, juicy style with a pithy tangy character, fine mousse and just enough of the baking shop to add interest and depth.

The Giró estate in the heart of the Penedès has been passed down through the titular family for generations. Winemaking and winegrowing ideas have also come with the inheritance, and the family now has some 48ha planted, largely to traditional Catalan varieties in 29 individually named plots, from which to make its range of still wines and Cavas. For this cuvee, the family uses a blend of Macabeo (50%), Xarel·lo (30%) and Parellada, which is aged for three years on its lees and bottled without sugar giving a brisk, clean, green apple setting for some nicely evolved brioche and biscuit.

maset.com

girodelgorner.com

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Cavas with UK representation

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Dominio de la Vega Reserva Especial Brut 2016

12.5% abv

Located in Utiel-Requena, 70km inland from Valencia, Dominio de la Vega grows its vines on a plateau where summers are scorching and winters brutal. This Macabeo/Chardonnay blend has a distinctive golden hue, an incredibly fine mousse, and a gorgeous toasted hazelnut character on the nose and palate. Ripe stone fruit, melon and red apple skin flavours were all picked out by our tasters, balanced by some more herbal elements – maybe some fennel, or chicory. A versatile and gastronomic Cava. Laytons

Dominio de la Vega Expression Reserva 2018

The name “Expression” is well chosen because this is a wine that finds a myriad ways to show its personality, starting with its rich golden colour. On the nose we find gravel, smoke, petrol and dried lemon; the palate is soft and rounded, with the ripe fruit coming to the fore. Lots of honey and lemon character, with gentle herbal notes adding to the appeal. All in all, a beautifully balanced wine, with lots going on – and at an eye-catching price. Laytons

RRP £22.95

11.5% abv

RRP £14.95

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2021

Agustí Torelló Mata

Agustí Torelló Mata Kripta

Reserva 2017

Gran Reserva 2011

11.5% abv

12% abv

Agustí Torelló Mata (the man) is one of Spain’s most revered Cava personalities, dedicated to the category since 1955. The vineyards are located at Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, described as “the cradle of Cava”, and are cultivated organically. The Reserva impressed with its exquisite creaminess, fresh pear and marzipan aromas, undercurrents of biscuit and smoke, and hints of caramel, lemon curd and sherry. A really lovely wine, enthused one taster, with plenty of vibrancy. It will be interesting to see how the wine unfurls with more bottle age.

Since 1978 Kripta has gained a loyal following, and not merely because of its amphora (or perhaps torpedo) shaped bottle. The blend comes from three plots in the Penedès: Macabeo from Sant Pau d’Ordal, Xarel·lo from Sant Sadurní d’Anola and Parellada from Sant Joan de Mediona. For some, this was the tasting’s stand-out wine: a rich, luxurious Cava with patisserie aromas, notes of beeswax, and a touch of woody herbaciousness on the palate. For a Cava so rich in flavour, the absence of residual sugar is remarkable.

Basco Fine Foods

RRP £13.45

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2021

RRP £53.29

Bodegas Sumarroca Núria Claverol Homenatge Gran Reserva 2014

Mont Marçal Extremarium Brut Reserva 2018

11.5% abv

12.5% abv

Carlos Sumarroca and his wife Núria – for whom this cuvée is named – have established themselves as the largest producer of estate-grown Cava. They farm sustainably and organically, using only free-run juice, in this case from 50-year-old low-yielding Xarel·lo vines, blended with Parellada and Chardonnay grapes. A toasty nose, with some almond and biscuit; very dry and mineral, with some citrus elements and a delicate floral note on the finish. A classy wine.

This Penedès estate dates back to 1975 when it was founded by Manuel Sancho. It’s now part of the Bardinet group, with 40 hectares of its own vineyards. Xarel·lo, Macabeo, Parellada and Chardonnay make up the blend here, with the latter spending four months in oak as it ferments. The process contributes to a structured, confident and classic Cava which was admired by our tasters for its clean, fresh appeal as well as its marshmallow sweetness and bready, autolytic notes.

Alliance Wines

Ellis of Richmond/Cellarvino

RRP £48.74

RRP £19.49

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2021

Parés Baltà Blanca Cusiné

Vallformosa Gran Barón

Gran Reserva 2012

Brut

12% abv

11.5% abv

Joan and Josep Cusiné represent the third generation of this Penedès winemaking family, staying true to the nature-embracing principles of their parents and grandparents. Xarel·lo dominates the blend, but the role of Pinot Noir, vinified on its lees for two months with batonnage three times a week, should not be underestimated. Chardonnay also plays a cameo role. It’s fresher than the deep colour might suggest, with toasty and dried apricot flavours. We also picked out earthy, foresty and tobacco notes. A foodie’s wine.

As our tasting demonstrated, Cava has some serious value to offer at premium price points, but here is proof that it can also deliver the goods in the important sub£10 category. This organic blend of Xarel·lo, Macabeo and Parellada is really nicely put together, our tasters said, with notes of baked apple and butterscotch and a hazelnut and almond sort of finish. A Cava that would be at home in a variety of everyday settings, and would be perfectly at ease with a variety of tapas dishes or as an aperitif.

Top Selection

North South Wines

RRP £32

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2021

RRP £9.99

Mont-Ferrant L’Americano Organic Brut

Roger Goulart Gran Reserva 2015

12% abv

Now part of the Codorníu group, Mont-Ferrant claims to be the oldest Cava producer, founded in 1865 by Agustí Vilaret, who made his fortune in Spain before returning to Catalunya with the ambition of crafting quality sparkling wine. His efforts were inevitably hit and miss, but there are no such worries here. There’s an enticing bready, yeasty, leathery aroma and a suggestion of melting butter. On the palate, the wine is soft and approachable, with a hint of stewed apple.

More than five years of ageing on the lees adds all kinds of complexity to this enigmatic Cava, which is dominated by Xarel·lo with Macabeo and Parellada playing equal supporting roles. It’s remarkably fresh and zippy considering its age, with green apples and honeydew melon on the nose and concentrated, ripe citrus and stone fruits on the palate; also a hint of tobacco leaf. Tasters also picked out sea spray, clementine and ginger notes. It seems the longer you linger, the more there is to find here.

Codorníu UK

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £15

RRP £20.40

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2021

Vins El Cep Mim Natura Pinot Noir

Giró Ribot Black Label Treasure Gold

Brut Reserva 2016

Brut

12% abv

Four like-minded families joined forces in 1980 to create Vins El Cep, choosing a Penedès wine estate dating back to 1499 as the site for their winery. Not all rosé sparklers are bursting with character but here we find saffron and bergamot, wild strawberries and blackcurrant leaf, in a zippy and characterful Cava with just the right amount of supporting richness.

Made with Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo grapes sourced from Penedès vineyards, Treasure Gold is a serious Cava that evidently doesn’t take itself too seriously. The label looks fierce but the wine inside is soft and appealing, with flashes of peaches and red apple that may be particularly attractive to younger consumers just beginning their Cava adventure.

Amathus Drinks

Vesel Wines

RRP £19

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2021

RRP £19.99

Cava embodies the warmth of Spain Shumana Palit, Ultracomida As a category Cava is super popular. If our customers are looking for something sparkling, then they are looking for Cava. We are noticing that people now recognise that Cava is made with different grapes; we have some Cava made with Pinot Noir, and I think people are approaching it with a different frame of mind. We cover the whole spectrum in our range but the biggest seller by far is what we refer to as our house Cava. It’s a lovely organic one, it’s dry but not bone dry, it’s easy drinking, and it’s got the classic three grapes; Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada. It outsells everything. We retail it at £10.95. It’s not just a price-driven thing, it is a taste-driven thing now. Customers buy it as a gift for a friend who hasn’t been here before, and then the friend comes in just to buy it. It’s a lovely Cava. With Cava you get the fruit but you don’t get the onedimensional sweetness you find in some other sparkling wines. There’s a bit of complexity. You get the warm welcome that embodies Spain. The tasting summed up how varied the market is for Cava. It was a fabulous selection.

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2021

Alta Alella Mirgin Opus

Titiana Pansa Blanca

Cava de Paraje Calificado Vallcirera 2016 12% abv

Brut 2013 12.5% abv

A wine that has achieved consistently high scores from the world’s leading wine critics, Mirgin Opus was a stand-out wine in our tasting too. It’s a 60-40 blend of organic Chardonnay and Xarel·lo with structure and finesse: a savoury and restrained wine that gradually reveals its fruitier characteristics with each sip. We start with green apples and then veer to something faintly reminiscent of strawberry blancmange.

Pansa Blanca, better known to most of us as Xarel·lo, performs a sterling solo act here without the support of any of its usual companions. Part of the fruit is fermented in stainless steel, and part in French barriques (which partly explains the richness of the colour). There’s a warm strawberry and soft peach fruitiness at work here, especially on the nose, that will boost the wine’s crowdpleasing credentials, but also a zippy citrus acidity. A wine that our tasters feel could be a hit with younger drinkers.

Carte Blanche Wines

Codorníu UK

Price on application

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2021

RRP £17.50

Alta Alella Bruant Brut Nature 2019

12% abv

The bruant is a bird that helps control insects at this Catalan estate, which in 2019 enjoyed the kind of conditions that all organic producers pray for. The Xarel·lo grapes achieved a health and ripeness that suits the pared-down winemaking style, with no added sulphites or sugar in the mix. Green apples and gooseberries are evident on the nose, but the palate rounds out nicely, with white flowers and stone fruit flavours adding to the complexity. A pithy, lively, palatecleansing wine; multi-layered, but also easy-drinking. Carte Blanche Wines

RRP £24

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2021

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Published with the September 2021 edition of The Wine Merchant magazine in association with DO Cava www.winemerchantmag.com www.cava.wine © Graham Holter Ltd 2021 Registered in England: No 6441762 VAT: 943 8771 82